Enterprise Volume 16:02

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YOUR GUIDE TO | RESTAURANTS | HOTELS | ATTRACTIONS | SPORT | MUSIC

ENTERPRISE

LINKING DUBLIN AND BELFAST Volume 16:02

OUR FRIEND DOLORES THE CRANBERRIES ON MAGIC & LOSS S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y IN THE CITY CIARÁN CUFFE MADE IN NORTHERN IRELAND GAME OF THRONES

LEWIS CAPALDI S O M E O N E

M E E T

Y O U

P O P ' S

N E W

L O V E

S U P E R S T A R

J A M E S G A L L A G H E R + J E S S I E B U C K L E Y + S U M M E R FAS H I O N


DUBLIN CITY CENTRE

Midweek Breaks

(Sunday to Thursday inclusive) With NIR Travel Staying at the Harcourt Hotel Fashionable City Centre Hotel close to Grafton St and St. Stephen’s Green.

Your break includes:

Return rail from any NIR Station. 2 nights Bed & Breakfast. 3 Course Early Bird Dinner on one evening in the elegant 1900 (Nineteen Hundred) Restaurant.

June to Sept £174 March /April £150 • May to Sept £174 CERTAIN EXCLUSION DATE BUT YOU WILL BE ADVISED AT THE TIME OF BOOKING.

For reservations contact NIR Travel call 028 9033 7004 (Office hours Monday to Friday & Saturday Morning)

NIR Travel, Europa Buscentre, Glengall Street, Belfast. www.harcourthotel.ie


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F E A T U R E S

18.THE SECRET OF HIS SUCCESS He’s the first artist to sell-out an arena tour before releasing an album – and his debut album topped the Irish charts with record-breaking sales. But even as his songs plunge into heartache and ennui, in person and online, Lewis Capaldi comes across as an agreeable rapscallion. Ed Power meets the pop star of the moment.

22. A COUNTRY PRACTICE

06. ENTER HERE A rundown of what's hot and happening at your next stop.

With her stunningly powerful performance as an aspiring country singer in Wild Rose, Kerry-born actress Jessie Buckley is set to join Ireland’s ever-growing ranks of major screen stars.

15. RAIL NEWS

2 6 . T H E R E I S A L I G H T T H AT N E V E R G O E S O U T

3 7. FA S H I O N

Up to the minute news from Irish Rail and Translink

Few Irish rock stars have shone as brightly as Dolores O’Riordan did. As they release the album they were working on at the time of her death, her Cranberries bandmates Fergal Lawlor and Mike and Noel Hogan talk about what made their friend so very special and recall some of their fondest band memories.

Roe McDermott guides you through some of the hottest summer trends, including the return of tie-dye.

32. GOT 'TIL IT'S GONE

40. REVIEWS

Fantasy smash Game Of Thrones may have come to a conclusion, but fans in Ireland will be able to continue their love affair with Westeros thanks to the show’s close association with Belfast.

We pick out the highlights from the latest book, album and Netflix releases.

34. PARADISE CITY

4 4 . AT T R A C T I O N S

With the Green Party enjoying a fresh wave of support across the continent in the recent European elections, newly elected MEP Ciaran Cuffe outlines his vision for making Dublin a more environmentally friendly city.

Markets, bars, restaurants and hotels, and the best in shopping both North and South.


ENTERPRISE – EDITOR’S LETTER

VOL: 16 ISSUE:02

CREDITS EDITOR: Máirín Sheehy COMMISSIONING EDITOR: Roisin Dwyer CONTRIBUTORS: Stuart Clark, Roisin Dwyer, Peter McGoran, Roe McDermott, Paul Nolan, Peter McNally, Ellie MacLean, Michael Kealy DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Hot Press, 100 Capel Street, Dublin 1 DESIGN: Eimear O'Connor, Karen Kelleher, Emily Treacy ADVERTISING MANAGER: Tom Corcoran GROUP ADVERTISING MANAGER Catherine Madden PUBLISHER: Niall Stokes ENTERPRISE IS PUBLISHED FOR N I R A I LWAY S A N D IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY: Osnovina Ltd 100 Capel Street, Dublin 1 TELEPHONE: +353 1 2411 500 EMAIL: enterprise@hotpress.ie LETTERS: The Editor, Enterprise Magazine, 100 Capel Street, Dublin 1 PRINTED BY: Boylan’s Print COVER PIC: Christoph Köstlin

While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of N I Railways and Iarnród Eireann. All material © Osnovina 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited

The Giant's Causeway

WE NEED TO PROTECT THE WONDERS OF NATURE

O

ne of the lovely things about a train journey is that it takes you into the wilds. That might sound like a strange thing to say about a line that runs from the biggest city on the island of Ireland to the second biggest. But it is true. The railway tracks that take you from Dublin to Belfast pass through increasingly open spaces, before crossing the water at Malahide, making the passenger acutely aware that the sea is calling, playing on our own deepest emotions. And then it is into North Dublin, as the line pushes through the county, before spiking towards the coast again, in the direction of Skerries. It hugs the coastline past Ardgillan Castle through Balbriggan and on towards Laytown, a village located in that small area of Co. Meath that reaches the sea. Through a journey like this, and again when the train travels beyond Newry, heading true north, and yet ever-further inland, a powerful sense of the importance of the landscape impresses itself on anyone who is attentive. Look at those mountains! Observe the fields opening up and the birds that glide over them, singly or in their hundreds. We pass through tunnels that have been created by the great ingenuity of human engineering. But so much remains just itself. And these natural wonders we see from the train are just a tiny microcosm of what we must never forget is out there in immeasurable vastness across the globe: the extraordinary wonders of the natural world. The more you read about the impact that human encroachment has had on nature, the more aware you become that the beauty with which we are surrounded is fragile. We can keep spilling plastic into the oceans. We can kill entire species of fish. We can put at risk the very birds that populate the skies. We can produce so much carbon that

the polar ice caps melt. We can turn the earth against us. The feeling that this is already happening is hard to escape right now. Extreme weather events have become far more common – as well as more extreme. Forest and bush fires have become evermore destructive. And they have also claimed record numbers of human lives. The scientists are telling us that there is a crisis on the way. It is not a case of if, but when, it might reach a tipping point. The seas are rising. Coastal towns and villages are potentially at risk. Cities through which rivers run are in danger. And that is just on the island of Ireland. 105,000 homes on the island of Ireland are in danger as a result of climate change The risk of flooding is high in Dublin and Cork. A shocking 5,273 homes are at risk in Co. Clare. Louth, through which the Belfast to Dublin train line runs, will also be badly hit. In Northern Ireland alone, 45,000 homes are said to be at risk. Belfast will be hit. Indeed there are those who ask, will we at some time in the not too distant future be talking about where The Giant’s Causeway used to be? Thankfully we are not among the most vulnerable. But we are contributing, on a per capita basis, more than our share of carbon to the environment. That’s why it is so important for us to play our part in the drive to make the island of Ireland a model of sustainability. Happily, the train is the best way to travel from the point of view of minimising our carbon footprint. So you can celebrate that encouraging fact, while enjoying the natural beauty to which all train journeys open you up. But don’t forget the bigger picture. We all have a planet to save.

MÁIRÍNSHEEHY | EDITOR 4


Make Belfast your next stop for lots of fun and exciting things to see and do.

The city is packed with unique events for all the family from festivals and gigs to amazing attractions. You can enjoy a walk along the maritime mile to uncover a Titanic history. Step through the wardrobe and rediscover Narnia at C.S. Lewis Square or journey through the land of Game of ThronesÂŽ on a locations tour. Or taste your way around the city on a Belfast food tour, relax in the sun and dine al fresco, or reach new heights in one of the many rooftop bars. With great hotel offers available, come for the day and stay for the night.

Find out more at

VB_GoRail_advert_v2.indd 1

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EN TE R| HERE

A RUNDOWN OF WHAT’S HOT & HAPPENING B Y P E T E R M c N A L LY & E L L I E M a c L E A N KENNETH CAPELLO

BILLIE EILISH

Stradbally Hall, Laois, August 31–September 2

ELECTRIC PICNIC 6

The big cahuna of Irish festivals, and understandably so, Electric Picnic is back this year with another mouthwatering line-up, packed with big names and great indie outfits alike. Handling headline duties this time around will be NYC indie icons The Strokes; art-pop crew Florence And The Machine; the all-conquering Irish troubador Hozier; and arena-pop kings The 1975. Elsewhere on the bill, there will be huge interest in pop’s newest sensation, the extraordinary and wonderfully talented Billie Eilish (above), as well as the beloved likes of Christine And The Queens, Four Tet, Roisin Murphy, and more.


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MADNESS

Custom House Square, Belfast, August 20

Having thoroughly skanked Dun Laoghaire Harbour Pier already this Summer, Suggs and the boys are back on our shores for Belfast’s CHSQ ’19. Although it's been a while since the nutty boys from Camden Town burst onto the scene with the likes of ‘The Prince’, ‘One Step Beyond’ and the eponymous ‘Madness’, they continue to remain as potent a force as ever as they celebrate their 40th anniversary. Also playing CHSQ ’19 are Anne-Marie (August 18), Jess Glynn (21), The Coronas (23). and much more.

BULMERS LIVE AT LEOPARDSTOWN Leopardstown Racecourse, Foxrock, Co. Dublin, June 6-August 15 Leopardstown Racecourse is just 20 minutes outside Dublin city centre – and the Bulmers Live series takes place there across the summer months. The line-up is a stellar one, featuring HamsandwicH, The Stunning, Something Happens, All Saints, and more. The live gigs are preceded by an excellent card of racing, so your blood will certainly be pumping by the time the musicians take the stage. This year’s festivities will see the return of the Carnival Extravaganza, which transforms the iconic Dublin racecourse into a Mardi Gras-esque land of fantasy. Great music, great food and the opportunity to splash a bit of cash on the nags. leopardstown.com

The Hearing Consultancy Because Hearing Matters

Expert advice from our independent specialists with over 25 years experience: • Hearing Tests • Hearing Aids

• Wax Removal • Industrial Audiometry

Call or e-mail today to book your free hearing test at any one of our clinics located along the ‘Enterprise’ route Tel: 1800 80 43 22 | Web: www.thehearingconsultancy.ie | E-mail: info@thehearingconsultancy.ie 7


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P!NK RDS, Dublin, June 18 The aerobatic pop-sensation brings her Beautiful Trauma world tour to Dublin this June for what’s sure to be one of the most thrilling gigs of the summer. A hugely successful live draw, Pink’s The Truth About Love tour was the third biggest-selling in the world in 2013. Also playing the legendary Dublin venue this summer are New Jersey rockers Bon Jovi (15 & 16); and Leinster rugby star Jordan Larmour’s favourite SoundCloud rapper, Post Malone (August 22). Visit translink.co.uk for coach specials travelling from NI to the event.

LANA DEL REY Malahide Castle, Dublin, June 22 Three years since Lana Del Rey graced the emerald isle at Electric Picnic 2016, the sultry pop singer is back for her own headline show. With the release of her fifth major studio album on the horizon, the 'Young And Beautiful' singer has promised “emotive performances of (her) cinematic sound.” Malahide Castle is the perfect venue for Del Rey’s breathy, sunkissed tunes. Visit translink.co.uk for coach specials travelling from NI to the event.

L E W I S C A PA L D I

BELSONIC 2019 Ormeau Park, Co. Belfast, June 12-28 Now on the go for 11 years, Belsonic returns to the picturesque site of Ormeau Park, in the heart of Belfast, for nine nicely-spread evenings of adrenaline-fuelled live performances. This year’s lineup is an impressive one, with Hozier – fresh from his US No.1 with Wasteland Baby! – a star attraction. It also features Slash, Stormzy, The Killers, Lewis Capaldi and much more. Belsonic will once again draw a hugely diverse crowd of music nuts (we’ll see you there!). belsonic.com

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DYLAN MORAN

JANELLE MONAE

Vicar Street, Dublin, July3-6 The lyrical comedian returns to the stage with his new tour, Dr. Cosmos at Vicar Street. Renowned for his unique take on the everyday aspects of life such as love, politics and cynicism, Moran’s celebrated sense of wit is not to be missed. Winner of two BAFTAS for his acclaimed sitcom Black Books, Moran is a legend on the UK and Irish comedy scene.

TRINITY SUMMER SERIES Trinity College, Dublin, July 1–7 The cricket pitch on the hallowed grounds of Trinity College has long been the go-to hangout for students on lazy summer evenings in Dublin. Recent years have seen it transformed into a wonderful and atmospheric city centre venue, hosting some of the biggest names in music. This year's action kicks off with indie darlings Vampire Weekend on July 1, followed by appearances from Foals (2); Janelle Monae (3); the modfather himself, Paul Weller (4); Stereophonics (6); and New Order (7).

LOOK N OR T H FOR

Some Summer Fun

The Causeway Coast & Glens in Northern Ireland is gearing up for a summer of events like never before in 2019. Without doubt, The 148th Open at Royal Portrush from 14th-21st July grabs the headlines, but you don’t have to be a golf fan to join in some festival fun.

JUNE The Salmon & Whiskey Festival in Bushmills, Co Antrim takes place from 7-9 June, celebrating local heritage and the very best of local food, with renowned chef Ian Orr as special guest. Set your taste buds alight as you browse through the artisan markets discovering the fresh local produce that this exciting part of the world has to offer. Children will love the free craft sessions and the interactive activities for the International Year of the Salmon at the Salmon Fisheries, while adults may enjoy a free whiskey tasting throughout Saturday and Sunday at Bushmills Distillery.

J U LY To mark the historic return of The Open at Royal Portrush, ‘Live at the 148th Open’ from 15th-21st July will see the seaside town transformed as it hosts a fun for all Golf Zone, street theatre, History of Golf Exhibition, live music and bands, entertainment and fireworks. A blend of soul, folk, blues and plenty of foot

stomping contemporary and classic tunes will be showcased, as a range of musicians take to the Live at The 148th Open stage! And a special welcome goes out to BBC Northern Ireland, broadcasting live from the centre of Portrush with ‘Open for Summer’.

AUGUST The Lammas Fair is the biggest event of the year in Ballycastle, Co Antrim. The custom dates back hundreds of years, making it the oldest fair on the island of Ireland. Traditionally held on the last Monday and Tuesday in August, the Fair’s sights and sounds make it a must-see experience with two days of traditional music and dance, horse trading and bargaining, amusements, artisan market and street theatre. Come early for the weekend and you’ll be treated to lots of carnival activities, as well as the unique Heavy Horse and Vintage Show. F O R M O R E D E TA I L S , G O TO www.visitcausewaycoastandglens.com

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WESTLIFE Croke Park, Dublin, July 5-6 After breaking millions of hearts in 2011 with the announcement that Ireland’s biggest boyband was to split, late last year Kian, Shane, Nicky and Mark broke the news of their return to action for their 20th anniversary. Demand for tickets to see the re-united pop-stars has been so high that extra dates were added in Dublin and Belfast, including another stadium date at the mighty Croker. Visit translink.co.uk for coach specials travelling from NI to the event.

THE OPEN Royal Portrush Golf Club, Antrim, July 18-21 Golf’s most distinguished championship celebrates its 148th year in Royal Portrush. This golf club has not hosted the tournament since 1958. It’s sure to be a good one, having already broken records as the first ever Open Championship to sell out. Predicted to have 600 million viewers worldwide and 190,000 spectators, no golf lover would dream of missing this one out. Visit translink.co.uk for coach specials travelling from NI to the event.

CHANCE THE RAPPER

LONGITUDE FESTIVAL Marlay Park, Rathfarnham, Co. Dublin, July 5-7 Since its inauguration in 2013, Longitude has gone from strength to strength, evolving to a point where it has become one of the most highly anticipated events of the summer. In recent years, the line-up has become primarily R&B, hosting the cream of the hip-hop crop, along with some of the best names in pop and dance. This year’s stellar lineup features Cardi B, Chance The Rapper, A$AP Rocky, Future and Versatile among many other stars. What more can you ask for? longitude.ie

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FLEADH CHEOIL August 11-18 – Drogheda, Co. Louth The 2019 Fleadh Cheoil promises another week-long jamboree of music, song and dance. In recent years the numbers have grown significantly, with in excess of 250,000 flocking to the 2012 Fleadhanna in Cavan, and a staggering 500,000 attending the Drogheda event in 2018. This year sees the festival returning to Drogheda, for what’s sure to be one of the summer’s major highlights.


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DUBLIN HORSE SHOW RDS, Dublin, August 7-11 This summer highlight has become an Irish institution, ever since it was first held in 1864. A celebration of Ireland’s affinity with all things equine, from the finest show horses to the best international showjumpers, it effortlessly combines sport, style and socialising in a fine setting. It’s also one of Ireland’s largest events, each year welcoming tens of thousands of people from Ireland and all over the world.

UNEARTH HIDDEN GEMS ARMAGH CITY WALKING TOURS

Every Thursday - Sunday | 20 June - 1 Sept 2019 For further information and to book: w visitarmagh.com/walkingtours f /VisitArmagh t @Visit_Armagh i VisitArmagh

VisitArmagh.com

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A special tip from the people at The Hearing Consultancy

H OW TO K E E P M I C E OFF THE MENU!

Do you know what an oronym is? Our good friends at The Hearing Consultancy have been explaining the meaning of the term to Enterprise. By asking us a question, that is!“Have you heard any good oronyms lately?” Relax! We hadn’t a clue either. An oronym, it turns out, is a combination of words which can sound the same. Someone with hearing loss hears oronyms all too often. “ 'Ooh, cook hairy mice today' might seem like a very bizarre culinary suggestion when in fact you’ve been paid a lovely compliment: ‘You look very nice today’,” Martyn at The Hearing Consultancy elaborates. If you, or someone you know, is suffering from hearing too many oronyms, it’d be a good idea indeed to get your hearing checked out. “Who knows?” Martyn says, “Not only might you be on the path to better hearing, but mealtimes may also improve…" •You can get a free hearing assessment at The Hearing Consultancy. Freephone 1800 80 43 22 www.thehearingconsultancy info@thehearingconsultancy.ie

Summer in Armagh Whether you’re a tourist or a weathered local, there’s no time like the summer to explore all that Armagh has to offer. The warmer months usher in a calendar of exciting music, art, culture, food, and family events throughout the city and surrounding area - with something to strike everybody’s interest. To kick off your visit, immerse yourself into the city with a guided walking tour. Running between Thursdays and Sundays until the beginning of September, the tour takes in the rich history of Armagh from pre-Christian times to the modern

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FOO FIGHTERS Belfast Vital, August 19 / RDS, Dublin, August 21 Dave Grohl, Taylor Hawkins, Nate Mendel, Chris Shiflett, Pat Smear and Rami Jaffee kicked off 2018 by playing an Australian/New Zealand stadium tour followed by sell-out shows at some of the world’s biggest music venues, including Madison Square Garden, Fenway Park, Wrigley Field and London Stadium. Now the ‘Best Of You’ singers have announced two Irish dates, one at the RDS Dublin and another headlining the Vital Festival in Belfast at Boucher Road. Visit translink.co.uk for coach specials travelling from NI to the event.

day, and includes stops at beautiful historical buildings and hidden gems along the way. History buffs should also head over to the Sham Fight at Scarvagh House on July 13, for the return of the symbolic re-enactment of the 1690 Battle of the Boyne. The 50th anniversary of the first human landing on the moon will also be marked with a range of events over at Armagh Planetarium on July 20. For the art-lovers, F.E. McWilliam Gallery and Studio in Banbridge (only a half-hour drive from the city) is a must-see. As well as offering a range of unforgettable permanent displays, their summer exhibition of the Scottish Colourists

- among the most admired of early twentieth century British painters - runs until September 28. The Wickerman Festival at Navan Centre and Fort, one of the area’s most eclectic music, dance and craft events, returns on August 3 for its annual celebration of the Celtic Sun God Lugh proudly overseen by a 30ft Wickerman. Music fans should also make a beeline for the 7 Hills Blues Fest from August 8-11, which boasts a world-class blues and roots line-up for its eighth summer. For even more events and activities, see visitarmagh.com.


ENTER|HERE Photo by Ramsey Cardy/Sportsfile

BURT BACHARACH Iveagh Gardens, Dublin, July 20 / Big Top, Galway, July 22 Recipient of three Academy Awards and eight Grammys, Burt Bacharach revolutionised the music of the 1950s and ’60s. Renowned for hits such as ‘The Look Of Love’, ‘I Say A Little Prayer’ and ‘Walk On By’, his songs have been recorded by legendary singers such as Frank Sinatra, Neil Diamond, Linda Ronstadt, Dionne Warwick and Aretha Franklin.

ALL-IRELAND HURLING FINAL Croke Park, Dublin, August 18 Limerick narrowly ended a 45-year drought against defending champions Galway in 2019, and John Kiely’s men brought the Liam MacCarthy Cup back to the Treaty City for the first time since 1973. While Limerick will be eager to make it two-in-a-row, Galway remain the favourites to stage a comeback in this year’s tournament, and with the round robin format firmly embedded since last year, we’re sure to see the provincial competition reach fever pitch in 2019.

DISCOVER LISBURN & CASTLEREAGH EVENTS COMING UP: HILLSBOROUGH FA R M E R S ’ M A R K E T Last Saturday of May, June, July and August at Dark Walk, Hillsborough.

Hillsborough Farmers’ Market

MOIRA SPECIALITY F O O D FA I R Saturday 17 August Moira Demesne ULSTER GRAND PRIX Sunday 4 – Saturday 10 August Dundrod Circuit

Ulster Grand Prix

enjoylisburn @visitlisburn visitlisburncastlereagh vic.lisburn@ lisburncastlereagh.gov.uk 02892447622 visitlisburncastlereagh.com

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A Summer of events at Lisburn & Castlereagh There’s a number of exciting events happening in Lisburn this summer, but a longstanding highlight has to be the Hillsborough Farmers’ Market, full of local, seasonal produce by primary and artisan food producers. Taking place at Dark Walk on the last Saturday of each month from May-August expect to buy specialist meat, fresh milk, along with seasonal fruit and vegetables. What’s more a dynamic selection of home-made delicacies will be available ranging from baked goods to jams, pickles, chutneys and sauces, chocolate and fudge. With coffee and treats aplenty it promises to be a great day out for foodies and families alike. Meanwhile for those who want to get even more of a food fix, the beautiful surrounds of Moira Demesne will once again hold the Moira Speciality Food Fair on Saturday August 17th. Showing off a selection of award-winning food from over 45 producers, the fair is a great opportunity to explore flavours and local cuisine. Live Kitchen sessions will take place where cooks will get a chance to show off their skills, delivering up a range of tasty dishes. Visitors will

also have the chance to buy directly from farmers with an emphasis on ‘farm to fork’ dishes. Another event that tops the calendar for 2019 is the Ulster Grand Prix. An exciting chance to watch the biggest names and brightest talent compete at the world’s fastest road race, this year’s line-up at Dundrod Circut is set to be extra exhilarating. Running from the Sunday 4th – Saturday 10th August, Race week starts on Monday the 5th, with practice sessions for all classes on the Wednesday and Thursday morning. A total of seven races will run on Sunday including Superstock, Supersport, Ultralightweight/lightweight, Superbike and more, promising to be an event not to missed. For more details go to www.visitlisburncastlereagh.com

AT THE 148TH OPEN

PORTRUSH

15TH - 21ST JULY WWW.VISITCAUSEWAYCOASTANDGLENS.COM/LIVE-148TH-OPEN

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T RAIN | NEWS

WHAT ’S HAPPENING ON THE RAILWAYS

IARNRÓD ÉIREANN SEEK EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST FOR LANDMARK NEW FLEET

majority of train orders, the tender process is also providing for a possible first tranche of battery-electric hybrid trains. This is to ensure that, should funding or planning processes see the electrification of the first of the lines completed beyond 2024, that new trains will be available from that date to meet the surging demand from commuters.

The process to order the largest and greenest fleet in Irish public transport history has begun as Iarnród Éireann, supported by the National Transport Authority (NTA), seeks expressions of interest from global train manufacturers for up to 600 electric / battery-electric powered carriages over a 10-year timescale.

However, the overall order will see the Greater Dublin Area (GDA) total rail fleet, and up to 80% of all heavy rail journeys in Ireland, set for a potentially emissions-free future, as well as generating reductions in noise, and cost savings in train operations.

DART Expansion, a €2 billion investment under Project Ireland 2040, will see the capacity of the rail network transformed through investment in up to 300 new carriages, electrification of lines to Maynooth, M3 Parkway, Hazelhatch and Drogheda, and key infrastructure works to allow more trains to operate in the Greater Dublin Area. However, the ambitious tender for up to 600 carriages allows for the planned fleet expansion, replacement of the original DART fleet (the 76-carriage fleet will be almost 45 years old at the end of the current National Development Plan in 2027) and other carriages, and will ensure that the framework is in place for more carriages to be ordered if further growth in demand occurs. The tender notice in the Official Journal of the European Union (OJEU) and on etenders is expected to attract the interest of virtually every major global train manufacturer, such is its scale. It will ensure customers on our rail network benefit from up-to-date facilities and technology, and that there are scale benefits in the competitive tendering for the NTA-funded investment. While electricity-powered trains are expected to make up the overwhelming

The full national network will benefit from this investment, with existing Intercity and Commuter trains currently utilised to meet GDA-demand then available to boost frequency and capacity nationwide. As well as this major order, Iarnród Éireann and the NTA are progressing shorter-term options to meet record demand on Ireland’s railways. With 47.9 million journeys in 2018, and capacity requirements becoming acute at peak times, this includes: Negotiations are underway between Iarnród Éireann and its supplier seeking to agree an order for at least 41 extra Intercity railcar carriages, adding to an existing fleet of 234 vehicles, to enter service from late 2021 A tender process is underway by the NTA for the possible purchase or lease of preowned trains, which also would involve modifications to fleet, particularly as Ireland’s track gauge differs from that of other railways. Chief Executive of Iarnród Eireann, Jim Meade said: “The commencement of the tender process for our new fleet is the first major step in the DART expansion project, which will revolutionise public transport in the greater Dublin area, providing an even more frequent and environmentally sustainable commuting option for new and existing communities. It will also provide

greater capacity for Intercity and regional commuter services as carriages currently utilised in the greater Dublin area will become available for other services.” Chief Executive Officer of the National Transport Authority, Anne Graham, said: “The procurement of this fleet is the first step in the delivery of Dart Expansion, a programme that will attract some Ð2b in NTA funding in the coming decades. The expansion of Dart services is a key part of both the Transport Strategy for the Greater Dublin Area, 2016-2035, and Project Ireland 2040. It is also a critical element in the effort to reduce Ireland’s greenhouse gas emissions. The recent Oireachtas Climate Action Committee report recommended that the public transport elements of Project Ireland 2040 be prioritised. The Committee called for the speedy delivery of public transport investment to encourage more people to choose sustainable modes and leave the car behind. This announcement represents a significant step in that direction.”

Cork Commuter plans outlined The National Transport Authority has published the Cork Metropolitan Area Draft Transport Strategy, which sets out an exciting vision for sustainable transport in the Cork area. Included is a strategy for the future of Cork Commuter rail, which includes: o Eight new stations on the Mallow, Cobh and Midleton lines o Double-tracking of the Midleton line o DART-style frequency on all three Cork Commuter lines o Future electrification o Through running at Kent Station, and improved integration with other modes The strategy will now be the subject of public consultation. It envisages a Cork Commuter network with the capacity for 16 million journeys annually, a genuinely transformative scale of modal shift.

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T R AIN | NEW S

BELFAST TRANSPORT HUB

WHAT ’S HAPPENING ON THE RAILWAYS

The Journey Starts Here

Plans for the flagship world-class transport interchange

The Belfast Transport Hub has recently received planning approval. This is a multi-million-pound project which will transform public transport in Northern Ireland, creating a world-class transport interchange and surrounding masterplan development at the heart of Belfast’s newest destination, Weavers Cross. As a transport-led regeneration project, the Belfast Transport Hub is a hugely important Northern Ireland Executive Flagship Project and will be a key driver of economic growth for the city and Northern Ireland as a whole. The construction of the Belfast Transport Hub is expected to take around five years and will provide a range of key benefits both during the construction phase and on completion. The station will offer a range of retail and food and beverage outlets, as well as providing a new main bus and rail connection point, reaching out to every corner of Northern Ireland and beyond. The Belfast Transport Hub will facilitate growing passenger numbers, boasting 8 railway platforms and 26 bus stands. It will also act as a Gateway to Northern Ireland as on completion, the station will welcome the Enterprise Train Service from Dublin Connolly. For further information and to keep up to date with the development please visit weaverscross.co.uk

Thank you for all your support on Marathon Sunday! The organisers of the 38th Deep RiverRock Belfast City Marathon wish to thank everyone for their support on Sunday 5th May 2019. The largest single participatory sporting event in Northern Ireland made history as it took place on a Sunday for the first time ever. A record number of marathon entrants signed up for the brand new marathon route, which started at Stormont Estate this year. A special thank you to all communities North, East, South and West of the City, including a large array of churches and community groups, who came out to support the event through volunteering, entertainment and refreshments along the marathon route. The event organisers look forward to working with all sections of the community again as they plan for the 7th Deep RiverRock Belfast City Half Marathon. The event takes place on Sunday 22nd September 2019 at 9am from Ormeau Embankment, with around 5000 expected to participate this year, making this the event’s biggest year to date. Entries are open now at belfastcitymarathon.com. Final entry: Friday 30th August 2019.

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Runners taking part in Deep River Rock Belfast City Marathon


TRAIN|NEWS

TRANSLINK Launch search for outstanding young GAA volunteers Translink and Ulster GAA are calling on clubs across the province to nominate young people for the Translink Ulster GAA Young Volunteer of the Month award. Throughout the 2019 season, each month a winner will be selected, who best represents the volunteering and community spirit of the GAA. At the end of the year, one person will be named ‘Volunteer of the Year’, which last time, was won by 23-year-old Cathal Mercer from Tir na nOg GAA, Portadown. Clubs are encouraged to nominate young people aged 14-24 years for the accolade. Entries are welcome for volunteers who positively contribute to every aspect of community life – from coaching and mentoring, to fundraising and committee membership. Encouraging the GAA community to seize the opportunity to celebrate its young people, David Curry, Head of Bus Operations, Translink said: “This initiative has been running for three years and each season, the number and standard of entries continues to grow. Young people are the lifeblood of the areas we serve, and we are delighted to help celebrate their volunteer efforts through this award.” To nominate a young person for this award, visit ulster.gaa.ie/ youngvolunteeraward/. The nomination process opens on the 20th of each month and closes on the last day, after which a panel will select the winner. Monthly winners will receive a commemorative certificate and a set of Enterprise tickets.

President of Ulster Rugby, Oliver Galligan, and Head of Bus Operations, David Curry, launch the Translink Ulster GAA Volunteer of the Year.

Translink has you covered for Féile an Phobail and Eastside Arts Festival

Enjoy the best of East and West! This summer, visit East and West Belfast for great gigs and family fun at two of the most popular festivals in the city’s events calendar. Both EastSide Arts Festival and Féile An Phobail will take place from August 1 – 11, jampacked with music, comedy, workshops, talks, sports, tours, theatre, debate and more. Learn about the rich culture and heritage of both sides of the city as they come alive through their own unique and colourful celebrations. Translink is once again sponsoring both festivals and encouraging visitors to enjoy

special discount travel tickets to reach all the action. The Metro & Glider Family Ticket is just £7.50 for unlimited day travel on any scheduled Metro or Glider service for up to 2 adults and 4 children. The Translink Family & Friends Ticket for £19 also offers unlimited day travel on any scheduled Translink service across the entire network in Northern Ireland for up to 2 adults and 4 children. And anyone using Ulsterbus & Goldline can enjoy return journeys for the price of a single ticket after 9.30am. For full details on loads more awesome summer festivals and discount travel offers visit translink.co.uk, call 028 90 66 66 30, and follow @Translink_NI #smartmovers.

Family fun at the Féile an Phobail Teddy Bears’ Picnic

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FEATURE LEWIS CAPALDI

THE SECRET OF HIS SUCCESS

He’s the first artist to sell-out an arena tour before releasing an album – and his debut album topped the Irish charts with record-breaking sales. But even as his songs plunge into heartache and ennui, in person and online, Lewis Capaldi comes across as an agreeable rapscallion. Ed Power meets the pop star of the moment.

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PHOTOS: CHRISTOPH KÖSTLIN

It’s

been quite the year for Lewis Capaldi. In May, his debut album Divinely Uninspired To A Hellish Extent debuted atop the Irish charts. In so doing, Capaldi it became the fastest selling debut album of the decade in Ireland by a male artist. For good measure, he has also had three singles simultaneously in the Irish top ten. Still, despite his all-conquering success, Capaldi retains his boy next door appeal. He’s also one of modern pop’s foremost exponents of toilet gags and poo puns, as his 400,000 Twitter followers will tell you. “I try to be honest about who I am and about what I find funny,” he says. “As it happens a lot of my humour has to do with poo jokes. It’s not something I ever thought about – ‘let’s make this a thing’. But people seem to have grabbed

onto it for some reason. Everything that has happened it me is so unbelievable that you’re better off not trying to analyse any of it.” It’s always a mistake to conflate the artist with the song. But Capaldi is an extreme example. As a writer he bares heart and soul unabashedly. Take, for instance, break-out hit ‘Someone You Loved’ – written, among other things, as his way of processing grief over the death of his grandmother. Lyrically, melodically, in every way, the song is absolutely devastating. Capaldi has been likened to Adele and here the comparison makes sense – he’s got a huge voice and what feels like a bottomless well of heartache. He performed ‘Someone You Loved’ on the final of Ireland’s Got Talent and, amid the primetime tat and the cheese, it struck you straight in the solar plexus. And yet, in person he couldn’t be further removed from the figure he presents on record. There’s the “poo humour” and general irreverence (“whoever says money can’t buy ye happiness has never ordered three takeaways in one day,” Capaldi tweeted recently). Being Scottish, he has that instinctive Celtic insouciance too. He takes his music seriously – but can’t bring himself to be po-faced in person. Also, he seems notably jittery about his career and how long it will last, theorising whether he might not end up living under a bridge if it all goes wrong.


LEWIS CAPALDI

“Sometimes there might be artists who have all the worries of the world on their shoulders,” he says. “That’s not me. I’m very honest in my music. I don’t hold back. The thing is, it’s all in the song. If you need to know my innermost thoughts that’s where you will find them. I don’t go around with all these troubles on my shoulders. I put everything into my songs. That’s what they are for.” He has a few theories about his remarkable success – a progression that, in just two years, has seen him journey from headlining King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut in Glasgow to selling out an Ireland and UK arena tour that includes a date at 3Arena in March 2020. Tickets are like gold-dust – remarkable in view of the fact that Capaldi is really only just getting started. “I’m not a pop star on a pedestal,” he says. “I don’t try to be mysterious. That isn’t who I am. There’s nothing wrong with pop stars, don’t get me wrong. Lady Gaga is fantastic. But I think people like the fact I’m approachable. There is no barrier between the audience and me. When fans meet and chat with me they understand I’m just a regular person.” It’s hard not to see his rise as part of a wider trend. The bloke-from-down-the-road is the hot new thing in pop. There is Ed Sheeran, obviously – the alpha and omega of the sloppy-shirted, Nando-patronising mega star. But also George Ezra, Ireland’s Dermot Kennedy. Even Niall Horan from One Direction has reinvented himself as that guy you half remember from school who is suddenly on the telly, strumming a guitar. “All music tends to have its phases,“ Ed Sheeran co-writer Amy Wadge (’Thinking Out Loud’) told me when I spoke to her about the rise of the boy next door superstar last year. “We’ve had Britpop and the dominance of bands for quite an amount of time. The boy with the guitar has always been there but Ed has probably blazed a trail. That has opened the floodgates… “My theory is that because of the internet the easiest way to deliver a song is to sit in front of a webcam with just a guitar and a voice. That is the simplest approach and seems to be connecting with people.” Capaldi is part of that continuum, of which he seems quite aware. He wears his regular dude persona like a badge of honour. The last thing he would wish to be is regarded as mysterious and aloof. Who has time for that in their lives anymore? “Ed Sheeran once said that he would never turn down someone asking for a picture or an autograph. His logic is that if you doing a picture would make somebody’s day, how could

you possibly say ‘no’. I agree with that.” He’s met Sheeran a few times and will support him in the UK this summer. The truth is that Capaldi is rarely starstruck nowadays – though he was a bit nervous when he found himself next to Niall Horan in a London pub. “I did think that maybe he would have an aura. But what you learn as you go on is that even famous people are really just people,” he says. “They may be more recognisable. Under it all they’re just like the rest of us.” It isn’t lost on him how rapid his ascent has been. When his May 2017 single ‘Bruises’ went to number one on the Spotify charts, he was the first unsigned artist do so. “It has been very, very strange,” he says. “And things have really kicked up a notch since ‘Someone You Loved’. I thought people who listened to my music would like it. I didn’t expect to get new people. I thought, ‘This is a song that people who listen to my music will be into.’ I didn’t think I would get any more fans than I had.” The power of the ballad comes from its universality. “If people want to take it as a break-up song that’s fine,” he says. “But there are many ways in which we can lose someone. It could be someone dying. Or you might have a falling out with a friend. I wanted it to be open to interpretation, so that people could draw their own meanings.” He had to fight to have it included on last November’s Breach EP. “It wasn’t that the label was opposed to it,” he says. “But we’d already finished the EP. And then we came back and wanted to put this song on. They were like, ‘okay but it’s going to be a lot of work at the last minute’.” Capaldi – who is distantly related to Doctor Who actor Peter Capaldi – grew up in Bathgate, a town of 20,000 in West Lothian in Scotland. His father is a fishmonger, his mother a nurse. There is absolutely nothing in his background to suggest a career in music, though from a young age he demonstrated a remarkable proficiency at singing and playing. He learned guitar aged nine and by 12 was performing in pubs (his first public performance was belting out ’We Are The Champions’ at karaoke). His older brother had played guitar in bands and this stoked his interest. The family would also take long drives from Glasgow to France for caravan holidays (“planes exist – why did we drive to France?… We didn’t even bring our own caravan”). On those journeys his parents would play Queen, Genesis and Adam and

“I’m not a pop star on a pedestal.”

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FEATURE LEWIS CAPALDI R I S I N G S T A R : Capaldi's new album, and supporting Picture This at 3Arena in March

“You could write the best song in the world by accident.”

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PHOTO: DANI FRO

the Ants – and it all soaked in. “It’s like anywhere,” he says of Bathgate. “A wee bit boring. You spend your summer not doing much.” But Capaldi did find one way of passing the time: he began writing songs. “I didn’t know if I was any good – I just liked doing it,” he said in a video interview last year. “I operate under that exact pretence today. I don’t know if I’m actually any good. But I like doing it. You don’t know – you could write the best song in the world by accident. You could be someone who is consistently writing amazing songs and one day you wake up and you never write another good song in your life. You never know… You could think you’re writing the best song in the world. Some of my favourite songs have performed the least well. ‘Bruises’ was a song me and my managers never thought would be a best song at all.” As is now the convention, he uploaded footage of himself covering artists such as The View in his bedroom on to YouTube, and original songs on to SoundCloud. That was how he came to be discovered by manager Ryan Walter. “I was looking for something that I thought had the potential to go all the way,” Walter told musicweek.com recently. “I wanted something with broad mainstream appeal and when I found Lewis I was like ‘This guy’s voice, it cuts through’. But whether or not I expected it to go this way, I don’t think so – just because of how difficult it is to break new artists now.” The twist is that Capaldi looks and, in his conversation, sounds nothing like a conventional pop star. He feels this is part of his appeal. Walter agrees. “Back in the day you had polished pop artists – that still exist – then Ed Sheeran, who was the first relatable everyman in the middle,” he continued in his musicweek.com interview. “Lewis is almost a step further in that. His accessibility and relatability is resonating with people because they see a bit of themselves in him. And his awareness of who he is – I trust him implicitly on that.” Such was Walter’s faith in Capaldi that the singer and his team took the incredible step of announcing his arena tour, before the release of his debut album. “It’s a massive statement and it’s a statement I felt we could back up with the demand,” Walter proffered. “People are desperate to see him and it was something we wanted to do to be like, ‘Imagine playing to that many people without an album out. Imagine the possibilities...’ It’s a very surreal thing for us.” But the album is coming out and Capaldi is proud of it. He’s also, it’s

fair to say, not too precious about the the toil that went into Divinely Uninspired To A Hellish Extent. As the title declares, this was a story of slog as much as inspiration. “It’s about hard work at the end of the day,” he says. “You have to roll up your sleeves and get on with it. You can’t just sit there waiting for the ideas to come to you.” Ireland has always embraced singer-songwriters and, in Capaldi’s case, it’s once again to the fore. He secured his second chart number one here with ‘Hold Me While You Wait’, making this the first country where he’s had back to back number ones. To celebrate, he posted a video saying he could ‘kiss Ireland on the lips – with tongues’. Among his early cheerleaders, meanwhile, were Dublin rockers Kodaline, who personally invited Capaldi to open for them at a sold-out show in Belfast last year. And he’ll be in Cork this June as guest of Walking On Cars for their big open air gig at the Irish Independent Park rugby ground. Growing up, Peter Capaldi was the famous one in the family. So Lewis was chuffed that the actor agreed to be in the video for ‘Someone You Loved’. He did it as a favour too – Lewis may be a big streaming star but he can’t yet afford a Hollywood level budget for his pop promos. “My favourite role of his was in The Thick Of It, where he played [vicious spin doctor] Malcolm Tucker. He’s so funny – that’s definitely my type of humour.” As Lewis says, the overnight nature of his success has caught him by surprise. His manager was slightly blind-sided, too, no matter that he saw huge potential in Capaldi. “The way the first single came out and did so well… I knew it wasn’t normal,” Lewis says. “It almost helped… the fact it was so mental. If I was progressing from bigger gig to bigger gig or if the streams were progressing slowly, it would be easier to get caught up in it. I still live at home and then the song comes out and is a hit and it’s just mental. “The whole thing is so crazy that I couldn’t be caught up in it. I was just out of college and suddenly I’m flying to New York and LA to meet loads of labels. You have to remember this isn’t normal.” He doesn’t want to suggest that life as a pop star is a lark. It is, sometimes. But there are negatives too. “There is a lot of pressure,” he says. “That’s why a lot of young artists have issues with anxiety. You don’t want to trivialise mental health issues but I have experienced panic attacks. Often it’s a case of not looking after myself – drinking too much and then smashing loads of coffees to get through the day.” Capaldi admits he can become obsessed with negatives too. He may be selling out arenas and crushing it on the radio, but then a single may not succeed to the extent he hopes. Suddenly, he’s up all night wondering what’s gone wrong. “It’s human nature to focus on the downside,” he says. “You need to sit back and realise it’s all about finding a balance. That’s what I’ve learned, anyway.” He’s obviously uncomfortable being thought of as a celebrity. But increasingly he does get approached when out and about. A few fans even tracked down his parents’ address and materialised at the end of the driveway. “They told me they’ve seen a few people hanging about,” he says. “I do still live at home. But I tour so much, that’s the last place you’re likely to find me.” Capaldi’s determination to stay grounded is striking and it’s tempting to conclude that, as the waters rise and he becomes genuinely famous, it is something to which he will increasingly cling. Being pragmatic and slightly pessimistic, he’s even looked ahead and considered what he might do with himself if and when his music career sputters out. “Definitely my ambition was to do something in music. I might still be a music teacher or in a wedding band. Who knows? What I really wanted was to play music and not have to get a real job – one I didn’t enjoy it and would be miserable in. I never expected my career to be this massive thing. It won’t last forever and I’m totally cool with that. None of this is a given and I don’t take it for granted.” • Divinely Uninspired To A Hellish Extent is out now. Lewis Capaldi plays Ormeau Park, Belfast with The Killers on June 25 as part of Belsonic. He also plays Irish Independent Park, Cork with Walking On Cars (June 21); the Olympia, Dublin (November 21); and 3Arena, Dublin (March 8, 2020).


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FEATURE JESSIE BUCKLEY

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JESSIE BUCKLEY

A COUNTRY PRACTICE With her stunningly powerful performance as an aspiring country singer in Wild Rose, Kerry-born actress Jessie Buckley is set to join Ireland’s ever-growing ranks of major screen stars.

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INTERVIEW: ROE McDERMOTT

he last time I spoke to Jessie Buckley about her role in a film called Beast, I told her she was going to be a star. Now, just over a year on, Buckley is about to go full-on supernova. The Kerry-born actress received rave reviews worldwide for her role in this spring’s Wild Rose, Tom Harper’s musical fable, which sees Buckley play Rose Lynn, a wild, brash, drink-swilling, fight-starting singer with a big voice – and a big dream to match. Torn between the life she has and the life she dreams of, Rose Lynn feels trapped – and rebels through self-destruction. Failing to commit fully to either her dream or her family, she alternately inspires and frustrates the people around her. These include her mother (Julie Walters) and her boss and biggest champion, Susannah (Sophie Okonedo). Buckley is a force to be reckoned with. Charming and charismatic, vulnerable and enraging, her performance is incredible. And that’s even before she sings. Her voice is phenomenal, and she imbues Rose Lynn’s beloved country music with a power and emotion that will instantly convert anyone who hasn’t embraced the genre before. It’s an ideal role for Buckley, who jumped at the chance to not only play a character who loved to sing, but who is also complex and bold. “I just bloody loved her – I still love her, she’s very hard to shake off.” Buckley fell for the character as soon as she read the

script, and fights against the idea that she’s “unlikeable” – the now ubiquitous adjective thrown at complicated female characters onscreen. “I don’t think you can really read a character and say, ‘Oh she’s horrible’ – you have to read them and try to understand,” Buckley says. “And the moments where people find characters crunchy or uncomfortable – who in the world doesn’t have moments in their life where they are, too? I don’t think there are many female characters who are front and centre like that, where the complexities of being a mother and wanting something more for yourself are addressed. That dilemma costs her. Those are the foibles that make people really human. I wanted to explore that. If every character is sheened and perfect – what’s the point?” The film brilliantly addresses the pull many women feel between their familial responsibilities and their own desires. While Rose struggles with the guilt of wanting something more from life, the father of her children isn’t present or even mentioned – a subtle yet damning indictment of how women can still be expected to sacrifice their hopes and dreams for their families. “To actually want something for yourself is really difficult for a lot of people,” observes Buckley. “And there are paths that you can choose, paths that exist that will let you coast along, and that’s fine. But when you have a burning passion for something or you fall in love with a person, or an idea, or a dream, it’s hard. Because the moment you engage with that pull, you feel you belong somewhere else, to something else. Choosing that over what you have is scary and might mean leaving a lot behind.” One of many brilliant yet devastating moments in the

“Those are the foibles that make people really human. I wanted to explore that.”

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FEATURE JESSIE BUCKLEY about experiencing panic attacks on set, and the cycle of worry that can accompany them. “They’re funny things – they kind of creep up on you. It’s tiredness, it’s emotion, it’s risk, it’s being away from loved ones. You’ve very vulnerable, and there’s always an unknown. And acting, you’re drawn to the unknown because it’s a challenge – but you’re also scared of falling off the edge of the cliff, and you don’t know what’s on the other side. So I get them, but I also get out of them.” “When we were shooting the film, I was getting ferocious panic attacks in the middle of the shoot,” she says. “But the joy of working with someone like Tom Harper (who also directed Jessie in War And Peace) and having a trust and friendship means that whenever I’d have a struggle or a panic, he would say ‘This is very human, let’s explore it. Where is this coming from, is it coming from you or the character, can we channel it?’ When you’re in the hands of a director, those moments can be incredibly vulnerable. There can be a sense of ‘Cop on, we don’t have time for this, get on with it’ – but Tom is never like that. He’s a friend first, then a director.” And, Buckley adds, Rose Lynn taught her to have a more confidence, too. Buckley isn’t a method actor and doesn’t feel the need to stay in character when the cameras aren’t rolling, but she does commit to empathising deeply with her characters and allowing their perspective into her own life. “It’s an amazing experience, getting to be someone else for a while,” she says. “The way you look at the world is different, the way you relate to it is different. That’s the fun part. Each character who has come into my life has changed the way I look at the world. People ask me ‘How do you shake the character off’ – I don’t want to. They all help me grow.” Another very welcome thing that Rose Lynn introduced Buckley to was country music, which the actress fell in love with on set, embracing the genre that Rose Lynn describes as “three chords and the truth.” “Before this, I thought country was a bit, kind of hick?” says Buckley. “But I hadn’t really heard the real stuff. It’s the stories and the characters in the songs that really got me. The song ‘Angel From Montgomery’ by John Prine is all about an old woman sitting in her kitchen, thinking back over all the things she didn’t do in her life. It’s so simple, lyrically, but the stories and the emotion and the humanity and honesty behind it are incredible. It’s changed me, listening to and performing this music. You have to get out of your own way and let the characters take over.” Wild Rose has been getting rave reviews for its emotional, heart-swelling storytelling and Buckley’s star-making performance. But true to form, Buckley isn’t waiting for the external validation or sitting on her laurels hoping opportunities fall into her lap – she’s already working on some projects that are challenging and inspiring her. This includes Chernobyl, the five-part Sky Atlantic mini-series that also stars Barry Keoghan. “Chernobyl was my favourite thing I shot last year,” enthuses Buckley. “The script was insanely brilliant and honest and provocative. It was scary to take on, because these are real people. I play Lyudmilla Ignatenko, a real woman who is still alive. Her husband was one of the first firefighters into Chernobyl after the explosion. So she is kind of the civilian’s eyes and shows this journey of loss and dangerous love and grief and survival.” When it comes to her own career, however, Buckley is determined to blaze her own trail. “I want to figure out what I want to say to the world. Everyone’s path is different and I don’t want to copy anyone. I want to do my own thing.”

“It’s an amazing experience, getting to be someone else for a while.”

film is when Rose Lynn’s mother tells her to give up her pipedream of becoming a famous singer, pointing to all the X-Factor style reality shows filled with young, hopeful talented people and saying dismissively, “A lot of people can sing.” It’s a layered moment for Buckley, who herself got her break when she came second in BBC’s 2008 Oliver!-themed talent show I’d Do Anything. Did anyone try to dissuade her from following her dream? “Loads of people have said things to me,” Buckley says wryly. “And in the moment, it’s crushing. Because you question every bit of belief you have in yourself. But I think I’ve taken any negative comments and said, ‘Thanks very much, actually. Because now you’ve lit a fire under me – I want to show you that you’re wrong.’” And she has. Buckley’s career is already notable for its thrilling unpredictability. She toured the UK as a jazz singer, before coming back to drama to play Perdita in Kenneth Branagh’s The Winter’s Tale. She then went on to play a fiery Shakespearean actress Lorna Bow in the grungy 19th century thriller Taboo, opposite Tom Hardy, before landing her breakout role in BBC’s War And Peace last year, where she won acclaim for her portrayal of the devout, fragile Marya Bolkonskaya. To offset any public image of being a delicate wallflower, Buckley also played an enigmatic and intriguing young woman in Michael Pearce’s wickedly tense psychosexual thriller Beast. The actress seems to thrive on subverting expectations and rising to challenges. Not that she’s always completely sure of herself. She speaks openly

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FEATURE THE CRANBERRIES

THERE IS A LIGHT

T H AT N E V E R GOES OUT

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THE CRANBERRIES

Few Irish rock stars have shone as brightly as Dolores O’Riordan did. As they release the album they were working on at the time of her death, her Cranberries bandmates Fergal Lawlor and Mike and Noel Hogan talk about what made their friend so very special and recall some of their fondest band memories. INTERVIEW: STUART CLARK

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he man hugs, backslaps and well-intentioned lies about none of us looking a day older as I meet Ferg Lawlor and Mike and Noel Hogan feel reassuringly familiar. I’ve known the lads since 1989 when I reviewed the first Cranberry Saw Us cassette demo, Anything, for the now long-gone Limerick Tribune. Beneath the smiles and bonhomie, though, you can tell that the lads are still grieving for their friend and bandmate who drowned in the bath of her London hotel room on January 18, 2018. Dolores had just finished recording her vocals for In The End, the Cranberries’ prophetically-titled eighth album which, after much soul searching and consultation with the O’Riordan family, the guys decided to finish off with producer Stephen Street. Having kept it to themselves for the guts of six months – “We needed time to get our heads round the record, and what it represents,” Noel reflects – they’re now ready to share it with the world. “I have to say I’m finding this part of the process – the interviews, which are obviously going to be mainly about Dolores – really difficult,” Ferg says, visibly tearing up. Where were they when they heard the terrible news? “At home in Limerick getting ready to go off on a promo trip to China in March,” Noel says. “Her brother rang me and said, ‘Will you tell the boys?’ because obviously the family was devastated and they needed to be dealing with their own thing. So, I rang the lads… I can barely remember it. The shock is impossible to explain. It felt like somebody had made a mistake. It still does sometimes. You think you’re going to get another call in a minute saying, ‘Oh, there’s been a mix up, she’s fine.’ It all feels so… unfair.” Noel says that having In The End to work

on is what kept him from falling apart after Dolores died. “It’s hard to imagine what else I’d have done during that period other than get really down,” he reflects. “It ended up being therapy for all of us. It was Stephen who said, ‘You’re emotional about everything but, look, there’s a momentum here that you might never regain if you put it on ‘hold’ for a year.’ It was his faith in the songs and the work we’d already done that made us decide to continue with the album.” The bitter irony is that In The End sounds more like a rebirth than a full stop with a number of tracks that wouldn’t have been out of place on their 1990s Everybody Else Is Doing It, So Why Can’t We? or No Need To Argue breakthrough records. “Lyrically, Dolores had a lot to say again,” Noel nods. “When you spoke to her, it was always, ‘So much has happened to me over the last three years that I want to write about’ – and a lot had happened. It felt like she did five times the living that the rest of us did. There was so much that needed to come out, to the point where I couldn’t keep up with her. You’d mail Dolores a rough idea and she’d say, ‘You got anything else?’ I was like, ‘Give me a chance!’ She was working at the same furious pace as when she first joined the Cranberries, and was really, really excited about this album and everything that was going to happen as a result of it. She was mad keen to start gigging again.” Did the lads hang out much with Dolores when they weren’t recording or touring? “We were all of doing our own things,” Noel reflects. “You have family, you have kids. When you’re away for nine months out of a year, there’s a lot of catching up to be done when you get home. There’d be texts and emails and phone calls, but not a whole lot of hanging out. We were able to sit in Tom Collins’ and have a pint without anyone being bothered

“You think you’re going to get another call in a minute saying, ‘Oh, there’s been a mix up, she’s fine.’ It all feels so… unfair.”

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The lads aren’t sure whether Dolores got to see Derry Girls, the first episode of which went out on January 4, 2018 and starts with a blast of ‘Dreams’. “Then you see Erin’s bedroom and there’s a picture of the Cranberries on the wall,” Noel beams. “Derry Girls is like an advert for The Cranberries. They’ve also used ‘Zombie’, ‘I Can’t Be With You’ and ‘Ode To My Family’, which has done wonders for our Spotify plays! Derry Girls is absolutely Dolores’ sense of humor. She’d have loved it, especially Sister Michael. That episode where she was on the bus reading The Exorcist; Dolores would have been howling.” Their bandmate definitely was aware that Eminem had sampled ‘Zombie’ on the album that returned him to the US top spot last year, Kamikaze. “She always thought Eminem was cool so, yeah, that was a massive deal for Dolores,” Noel says. “She knew about it, but forgot to tell me until just beforehand, so my first time hearing it was the day of release on Spotify. I was expecting a snippet, but it’s the whole song. It’s almost more of a cover than a sample, which is cool because he did a great job of it.”

“The thing we remember the most about Dolores is the craic we had.”

BACK IN BLACK: (l to r) Ferg, Noel and Mike

PHOTO: MIGUEL RUIZ

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that we were there, but Dolores didn’t have that luxury. Even when she was off she had to be careful because people everybody expected her to be ‘Dolores, the Rock Star’. People say, ‘What are you complaining about; it’s what you wanted’ but not being able to do normal stuff like that can be difficult.” “The thing we remember the most about Dolores is the craic we had,” smiles Ferg. “What Dolores also had,” Noel chuckles, “was a very low boredom threshold. Two days into rehearsals, you’d look over and see that look on her face. She mightn’t have said anything there and then but at seven in the evening you’d get a call from her asking, ‘What did you think of today?’ and before you could answer she’d go, ‘It wasn’t rock enough.’ She was always the metaller in the band.” Tell us more about that look of hers… “You’d see it and think: ‘There’s going to be trouble here now; she’s going to kick off any second!’” Noel smiles. “If you were doing an interview and somebody asked a stupid question you’d see it. Initially, Dolores was very shy around us because we were strangers, but as we got to know each other better we realised that, ‘She’s well able to stand up for herself.’ She was never the ‘innocent colleen’ that the British music press made her out to be. She was a very smart person.”

Does Noel ever get sick of his own songs? “They’re always playing ‘Dreams’ in the gym I go to,” he grimaces, “which is a bit off-putting when you’re working out. Otherwise, no, I don’t dive for the ‘off’ switch when one of our songs comes on the radio. It’s amazing the places ‘Dreams’ ends up. The Chinese Olympic team had it as their official walking out music. There’s a version of it on YouTube in Cantonese.” From serenading Pope John Paul and appearing on the cover of Rolling Stone to collaborating with Angelo Badalamenti and simultaneously blowing Pavarotti and Princess Diana away with her singing, Dolores’ career was one of extraordinary highs. What are the lads’ own ‘wouldn’t swap em for anything’ Cranberries’ moments? “We opened up for the Stones in the San Siro. I remember looking around and thinking, ‘Jayyyysssssusssss!’ During ‘New New York’, I could hear Dolores’ vocal just swirling around. It was unreal. Mick does his own thing, but the others came and said ‘hello’. I was totally starstruck meeting Charlie Watts. Someone said he hasn’t changed his bass drum skin since the ‘60s; he’s afraid the sound will be different.” “We were on the same Milton Keynes bill as Oasis, Radiohead and R.E.M. who were headlining,” says Noel. “Even now thinking back, it was mental to be in that company. When we did the ‘Linger’ video, Michael Stipe turned up on the set because he was friends with the director, Melodie McDaniel, who’d also done the ‘Losing My Religion’ video. This was our first time in America – we hadn’t long been signed – and this legend just pops in. You never forget stuff like that.” As for what the future holds, the only thing the lads are 100% certain of is that they won’t be recording again as The Cranberries. “It can’t be The Cranberries without Dolores,” Noel concludes. “I’m just glad that we had the adventures together that we did, and have an album we’re all immensely proud of to say ‘goodbye’ with.” • The Cranberries’ In the End album is out now.


Enjoy a relaxing Railbreak... ...with

NIR Travel is Northern Ireland’s leading operator of short break holidays by rail. Our ready-made packages make it easy to take a trip to both Dublin and Northern Ireland; all our breaks are inclusive of rail travel on the Enterprise with an excellent choice of hotels on offer- ranging from 3* to 5* to suit all budgets. This is just a small selection of the fantastic hotel breaks we have on offer.

For further information visit: www.translink.co.uk/nirtravel and browse online for the hotel and then simply complete the online booking form. Alternatively call NIR Travel direct on 028 9033 7004 or pop in to the Translink Travel Centre, Glengall Street, Belfast.

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07 Aug - 17 Aug • All breaks include return rail travel from any NIRailways station. • All rates are per person sharing / single room supplements will apply. • All offers are subject to availability and T&Cs and are subject to change. • Any complimentary 1st Plus upgrade will be subject to availability • Not all dates can be offered (peak events)

Rail & Hop-On Hop-off Bus Tour Includes Walking Tour £55pp

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08 Oct - 12 Oct 28 Oct - 02 Nov

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17 Sep- 28 Sep

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Rail & Afternoon Tea @ The Maldron Hotel

NORTHERN IRELAND BREAKS Belfast - 1 night B & B from Europa Hotel from Grand Central from Holiday Inn from Hampton by Hilton from Jurys lnn

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Atlantic Hotel, Portrush Marine Court, Bangor City Hotel, DerryLondonderry Everglades, DerryLondonderry

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FEATURE SPORT

THE

FIGHT STUFF 30


JAMES GALLAGHER

Hotly tipped as Ireland’s next MMA star, Strabane native James Gallagher talks future ambitions, learning from setbacks, his friendship with Conor McGregor, and more. I N T E RV I E W : PAU L N O L A N

H

PHOTOGRAPHY: PODGE TWOME

aving signed with top MMA promoter Bellator, 22-year-old Strabane fighter James ‘The Strabanimal’ Gallagher is one of Ireland’s hottest young sporting prospects. Indeed, as a protege of Dublin trainer John Kavanagh - the man who nurtured Conor McGregor’s nascent career - many have tipped Gallagher to follow in the Crumlin fighter’s footsteps and achieve global stardom. Next up for the bantamweight fighter is an encounter with California’s Jeremiah ‘The Kid’ Labiano, taking place as part of the next Bellator extravaganza at London’s SSE Arena on June 22. How have preparations been going so far? “They’ve been going great,” enthuses the lively Gallagher. “I always try and keep training all year round, so when I do get a call for a fight, it just takes me a couple of weeks to get sharp. I’m in excellent shape and ready to go.” “Labiano’s a great fighter, it could be one of my toughest challenges. It’s a difficult one to figure out, but I feel like when I put my mind to it, I’ll make it look very easy. Anywhere the fight goes, I think I’ll be better. The only thing I need to do is keep focused. Once I do that, I don’t think many people will hang in there in with me.” Whilst he has the supreme confidence common to many MMA athletes, Gallagher suffered a setback last year following a knockout defeat to Puerto Rican fighter Ricky Bandejas. However, he insists he took the loss in his stride. “Everyone thinks a loss is a lot bigger than it is,” says James. “People put it on a pedestal or something, but it wasn’t that bad to be honest. I took a lot of lessons from that loss. Obviously for your ego, it’s tough. Everyone thought I would have took it a lot worse, and that’s why it was hyped up. Other people’s reactions made it a lot bigger than I felt it was. “It wasn’t that bad. I just got back to training, got the head back down again and fixed my mistakes. That’s what I do - no one is going to stop me in my tracks. A loss is a loss, it’s part of the game.” Does James feel you need a big ego to compete at the top level in MMA? “A bit, but I really just believe I’m the best fighter in the world,” he replies. “I’m not saying it for the craic or to get attention. I don’t feel like a loss takes from it. It wasn’t my night, but I feel like I could go back and beat him 10 times over. To me, that’s not ego, it’s

just years and years of hard work.” Gallagher first came to Kavanagh’s attention whilst still in his early teens, when he began attracting interest up North for his fighting abilities. Given Kavanagh’s association with McGregor, was it flattering to have him come calling? “I didn’t even know who Conor was back then,” reflects Gallagher. “I was 17 before he got to the UFC. The two of us would fight on the same bills in places like Derry and Letterkenny. That’s how we became mates. I’ve got very good parents, and when I started fighting when I was younger, they were concerned about it. So when John Kavanagh came along and said it was wrong, it confirmed what they thought - they just need someone who knew. “And John said, ‘You can come down and train in my gym for free any time you want.’ After that, my dad started driving me down twice a week. I’d only be getting back at like three in the morning. I’d only be getting a few hours sleep at night and then I’d be up at six to go training before school. When I was in school, everyone was just so negative.” Having such drive and ambition at such an early age meant James felt somewhat alienated from his peers. “They were just having the craic,” he says, “but I was going to the gym. I was training and they were giving me stick. I didn’t really know where I was going with it, but I just knew that if I kept focused, I’d end up doing something that I really loved. I went in one day, and it was a half-day coming up to Christmas. A teacher was giving out to me for not having work done, and I was like, ‘Speak to me like I’m a person.’ “But they kept giving out and I just said, ‘That’s it, I’m done.’ I was 15 at the time and I thought, ‘I have a good understanding of how things work - and you shouting at me is not how things work.’ So I went home and told my parents I wasn’t happy and it was wearing me down. The only time I was happy was at the gym. I just wanted to train and fight, and I didn’t want to be surrounded by these negative people. “If it didn’t work out, I could always go back to school. But I promised them I’d give it my all.” And with talk of a showdown with Bellator bantamweight champion Darrion Caldwell only set to increase if Gallagher defeats Labiano, it looks like the focus and dedication has paid off handsomely.

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FEATURE GAME OF THRONES

GOT Exhib i t i o n

GOT 'TIL IT’S GONE

Au dle ys C as t l e

Altavaddy Br i d g e

Fantasy smash Game Of Thrones may have come to a conclusion, but fans in Ireland will be able to continue their love affair with Westeros thanks to the show’s close association with Belfast.

A

BY ED POWER

fter eight series, record viewing figures and numerous all-time classic TV moments, Game Of Thrones has finally come to an end. Despite considerable debate over the direction the show took in its concluding season, it has been an emotional moment for fans, knowing that they will never again be able to look forward to the adventures of Daenerys, Jon Snow, Tyrion et al. Nonetheless, in one sense, Game Of Thrones isn’t going anywhere. HBO is already planning a prequel, set thousands of years previously and starring Naomi Watts. At some point in the distant future it is also possible that George RR Martin will finish the two concluding volumes of A Song Of Ice And Fire and we will discover if he agrees with HBO’s decision to kill off Mance Rayder, Stannis Baratheon etc etc. Closer to home, Westeros is very much alive. Belfast served as headquarters of the globe-spanning production for nine

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years and, as you might expect, is now seeking to make the most of that connection. Across the North are real-world locations that doubled as Westeros landmarks and are now waiting to be explored. These include Castle Ward, Co Down, a stand-in for Winterfell, Murlough Bay and Fair Head (Slaver’s Bay) and the Dark Hedges at Ballymoney, Co Antrim, aka the King’s Road (down which Arya fled after Ned Stark’s head was lopped off at the end of season one). Back in Belfast, a Bayeux-style Game Of Thrones tapestry telling the story of the previous seven seasons – a blur of stabbings, sword play and more stabbings – can be viewed at the Ulster Museum (don’t worry, they will be updating the tapestry after season eight). And in the city’s Titanic Quarter, fans can see many of the costumes and props from the series at first hand with the incredible Game Of Thrones: The Touring Exhibition at the Titanic Exhibition Centre until September. This is a true deep dive into Westeros. Visitors are greeted by the banners of Houses Stark, Lannister, Baratheon, Targaryen, Tully, Bolton, Arryn, Greyjoy and so forth. In a series of adjoining rooms they will next have an opportunity to spy at close quarters the wedding outfits of Joffrey and Margaery (the nuptials a happy affair that went well for all concerned); Jaime Lannister’s golden hand; the Hound’s dog’s head armour; and Red Witch Melisandre’s finest


GAME OF THRONES

W i nter fel l Tr ek

PHOTO: COURTESY OF TOURISM IRELAND

Glass of Throne s

THE WESTEROS WING Follow the Game Of Thrones stained glass window trail in Belfast, which leads from the city centre to Titanic studios 1 . B E L FA S T C I T Y H A L L The first stained glass window shows various scenes relating to House Stark, including Jon Snow wielding the Longclaw sword and Bran as the Three-Eyed Raven. 2 . W AT E R F R O N T H A L L The second window depicts the trials and triumphs of the Lannisters, the explosion at the Sept, Tywin's assassination and more.

Inch A bbey

“When the greatest shows of all time are discussed, it will be there.” red shift. The scale of some of the exhibits is breathtaking. In a recreation of the dragon vaults beneath the Red Keep is constructed the likeness of the skull of Balerion the Dread – and it’s really, REALLY big. You can also visit a mock-up of Castle Black, complete with Jon Snow and Samwell Tarly’s black furs and a sign reading “Traitor” (“for the watch!”) Some diehards grumbled that, with the episode count severely curtailed (down to six from the traditional ten) and the FX budget vastly inflated, Game Of Thrones became a different show. Still, despite the controversy, it was hard not be drawn into the various narrative strands as GOT came to its highly anticipated conclusion. There was the dramatic intrigue around Jaime, Cersei and Tyrion; the tension between Sansa and a revengefixated Daenerys; the questions around the ultimate fate of the enigmatic Bran; and the fascinating matter of Jon Snow’s destiny. As these storylines unfurled amidst the hoopla on social media, there were plentiful reminders of Game Of Thrones’ ultimate greatness. It was a show with terrific characterisation, genuinely shocking twists and turns, rip-roaring action and an incredible sense of atmosphere. When the greatest shows of all time are discussed, it will be there. • Details of Game of Thrones exhibition and tours can be found at discovernorthernireland.com

3. LAGAN WEIR Located at Lagan Weir footbridge, this window focuses on House Baratheon, with depictions of the Red Woman, Gendry's war hammer and a shadow assassin. 4. ODYSSEY POINT Next to SSE Arena, this window is based around House Targaryen, with an incredible picture of Daenerys riding a fire-breathing dragon. 5. SS NOMADIC Themed around the White Walkers, this chilling picture features scenes from beyond The Wall, including Hodor's death and the advance of the dead on a frozen lake. 6 . T I TA N I C S L I P W AY S The final window is a tribute to the The Iron Throne, with a built-in stool for selfies. For more info check out visitbelfast.com

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FEATURE CIARAN CUFFE

PARADISE CITY With the Green Party enjoying a fresh wave of support across the continent in the recent European elections, newly elected MEP Ciaran Cuffe outlines his vision for making Dublin a more environmentally friendly city.

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Photo: Andrew Behan

I

want to see great investment in quality transport infrastructure, and segregated cycle lanes are part of that vision. But we also need to make it easier for people to walk around Dublin, by getting rid of sandwich boards, getting rid of pavement clutter. That would make it far easier for people who are blind or visually impaired to get around safely. Wider footpaths would allow the social life of Dublin city to thrive and allow people to put out tables and chairs. That’s what Copenhagen did. A little bit of innovation in that regard would go a long way as would other things, such as putting in water fountains, and providing spaces for creativity to thrive. That’s what makes a city great, and we need to do more of it. If Amsterdam and Copenhagen can do it, then the sky’s the limit for Dublin. They can both have heavy rainfall, and

Copenhagen in particular can have heavy snow in winter. Cycling has been a success story in Dublin over the past 10 years, and we can do even better, particularly if we provide more segregated and safe cycle lanes. In Copenhagen, they cycle in the snow without any problem. They make sure they clear the snow and slush off the cycle lanes at the same time they clear the streets and roads. Elsewhere, insulation of older houses should be a key priority for government. We should bring every council home up to an A-energy rating. We’ve made some progress with that in Dublin city. I was visiting some senior citizens housing in Arbour Hill in the city to see that we’ve brought the housing up to passive house standard. That means that fuel bills are almost zero. This makes a huge difference for those living off a pension. So I would start with housing for senior citizens and then reach out to every other building in Dublin. Over the past five years in Dublin City Council, the Greens and the Labour Party sought to maintain property taxes, although other parties have reduced it, which I feel was retrograde step. As a result, we don’t have enough money to tackle illegal dumping in the city. We have parts that are padlocked. We don’t have the budgets to fix our


CIARAN CUFFE

"The cities I admire around Europe, like Vienna or Copenhagen… they have really good public transport and it’s not very expensive."

Photo: Andrew Behan

footpaths or maintain our housing. So we need a local property tax. It’s a very progressive tax. If you’re living on Ailesbury Road you’ll pay thousands every year, and if you’re living in a small house in the north inner city it’s only a few hundred a year. A lot of the wasted generated in the city is being disposed of in Dublin, but I’d like to see much more waste reduction, reuse and recycling. I’d love to see more jobs being created within waste industries, and that’s something I can help tackle at a European level, where there’s much discussion about the circular economy. There’s a lot we can do in that regard. In terms of the housing problem, I’d prefer focusing much more on higher density. I think we often get distracted into a debate about tall buildings, where instead we need to focus on quality construction, good design and high density. I brought people on a housing tour of Dublin a few weeks ago and I showed then 2-storey buildings, 6-storey buildings and 20-storey buildings with social housing. It’s important that we build lots of public housing There is a place for high-rise buildings, but let’s not kid ourselves that the solution to our housing crisis is lots of skyscrapers. The solution is building public housing, the state getting involved and providing homes in the quantities needed. Another issue is the impact the Luas has had on the Trinity College area. I pass the front of Trinity most days, and the great thing about the Luas is that it can take up to 360 people. It’s a fantastic people-mover. I’m not a big fan of the poles, and I know that cities like Bordeaux use different

O N T H E C A N VA S : Ciaran talks to a pontential voter

kinds of technical systems that allow for the removal of poles in city centre areas. I’ve met the head of transport in Bordeaux and he says it’s been really challenging as the whole system can break down. So much as I’d like to remove all the poles, I think we’re a little way off having induction systems that work perfectly. With regard to banning packaging in supermarkets, I think we need to work with the retail sector to move away from so much clumsy and crazy packaging like we currently have. I’m very impressed with the bottle-return system that I see working well in Germany and other countries. That may mean rethinking the contracts that the Government has with Repak, but it would get us to higher rates of recycling then it certainly should be considered. Finally, I think cars will be with us for a long time to come. But the cities I admire around Europe, like Vienna or Copenhagen, cities that are number one and number two in the liveability stakes, they have really good public transport and it’s not very expensive. They also have really good walking and cycling spaces. My colleague, the Deputy Mayor of Vienna, Maria Vassilakou, has introduced an annual fare for public transport of Ð365 covering all public transport on her city. Compare that to Dublin where it’s Ð1,400 for an annual bus pass. Dublin needs lower bus fares and more buses. That would really help move us towards very low fares or fares at all. If we can do that, it’ll get a lot more cars off the road. • In the next issue of Enterprise, we talk to Green Party Councillor Áine Groogan about the efforts needed to combat climate change and make Belfast a sustainable city.

35


FOOD

A FOOD AWAKENING The latest dining news from resident foodie Stuart Clark (Left) Stock Kitchen & Bar (below) Chimac

TAKING STOCK

The big June opening in Belfast is Stock Kitchen & Bar, which is taking up residency in the historic St. George’s Market. Its pedigree couldn’t be better with former Balloo Inns head chef, Danny Millar, and Home, Mourne Seafood Bar and La Taqueria man Andy Rea both involved. Open from Thursday night to Sunday lunch, they’re promising “a nose to tail taste of Belfast”, with Dover sole, langoustines and lobsters keeping the fishy brigade happy. We’ll let you know how they’re getting on in the next Enterprise!

GETTING A ROUND IN

The Round Room of the Mansion House is the venue on July 13 as Whiplash and The Big Romance join forces for the inaugural Fidelity Beer Festival, AKA The Party In The Mayor’s Gaff.

36

One of the country’s finest gypsy brewers – they’re currently renting space from Larkin’s in Co. Wicklow – Whiplash will be joined in D2 by fellow Irish micros YellowBelly, Rascals and Boundary; UK artisans Gipsy Hill, Duration, Wylam, Salopian, Deya, Burnt Mill, Northern Monk, Left Handed Giant, Track, North Brewing Co.; Scandi hotshots Mikkeller, Lervig, Beerbliotek, To Ol, Dry & Bitter, and Stigbergets; holy American triumvirate Finback, Other Half and J. Wakefield; and other shiny hoppy people from Spain, Estonia, Poland, Germany and Switzerland. Unlike other pay-asyou-sup Irish festivals, the Ð62.50 tickets include unlimited tastings from either 11.30am-4.30pm or 6pm-10.30pm with each session featuring totally different beers.

KOREA OPPORTUNITIES

It was love at first bite last week when Enterprise had the KimCheese Sambo with Spring Onion Kimchi, Gochujang Mayo & Ssamjang & Cheddar Cheese Sauce in Chimac, the island’s first Korean fried chicken joint residing at 76 Aungier Street, Dublin 2, which is down the road from Whelan’s if you’re in need of a pre/post-gig pigout. Or should that be chickenout? Either way, it’s impossibly good… We’ve also developed a serious crush on Frank’s, a new opening up the road from Chimac (and Whelan’s) on Camden Street. Presided over by Darren Free who owns nearby Delahunt as well, all the cooking in the former butcher’s shop is done at a communal 20-seater table.

When we popped in, the constantly changing two snacks/four mains/two desserts menu included Barley Crackers with Beef & Black Garlic, Lamb Breast with Padron Pepper, Navet & Gnocchi and a cracking Coffee Panna Cotta.

GRILLING IN THE NAME OF

All roads lead to Ballymena on July 13 and 14 as the Dalriada Festival of Music & Food returns to Glenarm Castle. Created specially for families, one of the foodie standouts is the first Celtic Smoke International BBQ Competition. Curated by the Kansas City BBQ Society, it’ll make for a couple of extremely tasty days as top fire pit chefs do grilling, basting and broiling battle!


E N T E R P R I S E

F A S H I O N From hippie-chic to sophisticated suits, Summer 2019 collections have brought a wide range of fresh and fabulous trends. By Roe McDermott

summer trends Top â‚Ź11, Skirt â‚Ź16, Both Penneys

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T R E N D S

T I E - D Y E

Shorts €15, Penneys

Tie dye jeans €32, Next

Pink Pleated Tie Dye Effect Maxi Dress €65, Roman Originals

Blue tie dye ombre dress €59, Roman Originals Red and white dipdye dress €22, Penneys

"Modern tie-dye is more blurred, often focusing on one shade, or complementary hues like ombre fades."

Pastel Pink Tie Dye Pleated Midi Skirt €32, New Look

Tie dye dress €22, Penneys

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Y

ou may have thought that the days of tie-dye were over, but like chokers, mom jeans and '90s spaghetti straps, this trend is having a resurgence. This California surfer dude trend has been reimagined by designers, as the tie-dye that was so popular in the '60s and '70s has been edged out and made more contemporary. One huge transformation is the move away from the traditional distinct, concentric circles of colour. Modern tie-dye is more blurred, often focusing on one shade, or complementary hues like ombre fades. Modern tie-dye can also combine with other prints like checks or polka-dots, acting more as a print than a homemade explosion of colour. Designers embraced this chic new interpretation, moving away from the hippie vibes of tie-dye with interesting and understated interpretations. Dior sent a surprisingly chic red and blue swirl skirts and matching shirt down the Summer 2019 catwalks, merging tie-dye and tailoring in an unexpectedly sophisticated way. Prada elevated tie-dye into something fabulously feminine, using the print on pretty silhouettes such as A-line skirts and fit-and-flare dresses, and often combining tie-dye with stripes for a fresh take. Couture fabrics such as satin and silk further sharpened the prestige of tie-dye. Given the wide variations of modern tie-dye, it can be worn however you like. A lovely and more formal approach to tie-dye is to look at ultra-feminine silhouettes and dresses, where tie-dye is used like an ombre or abstract print. Going for more traditionally formal shapes and fabrics like A-line skirts and silk will bring an unexpected delicacy to the print, pulling it firmly from the grasp of '70s cotton t-shirts! Unexpected colour palettes are another way to modernise this trend. Muted hues, pastels or monochrome tie-dye all challenge our expectations of tie-dye, and are great for people who like the design of tie-dye but are wary of too much colour. As ever, accessories and shoes are a great way of easing into the trend without feeling like a walking DIY project.


FASHION

T R E N D S

S U I T I N G

U P

F O R

S P R I N G

Monochrome large-spotted flared trousers, Coming soon to Topshop

Mustard cape blazer €32, Pretty Little Thing

Petite dusky pink gold button blazer dress €35, Pretty Little Thing Natural linen blazer €22, Penneys

Oliver Bonas high waist peg trousers pink, €72

"Tuxedo dresses can be worn over tights and shirts during the day, and worn on their own in the evening, for a glamorous take on formalwear." Green striped trousers, Coming soon to Topshop

N

ow that the sunny months are officially here, it may be time to retire your drab workwear for lighter and fresher suits. Not that suits are being confined to the workplace – the Summer catwalks showed how designers are reimagining women’s suits for all occasions, and designers were also showing how summer is the perfect time to play with colour and print. Marc Jacobs went for ultra-feminine details on his shirt and pencil skirt combos. Petar Petrov and Jil Sander featured suits in shades of seafoam green and mint, while Escada boldly paired magenta pencil skirts with canary yellow blazers for an '80s approach to workwear. Emilia Wickstead and Max Mara kept their suits subtle and understated with shades of beige and camel, but Mansur Gavriel featured a candyshop-worthy palette of pastels, with peach, pink, lemon and lime hues all featuring in their collection. When shopping, look out for pieces that serve more than one purpose. Brightly coloured blazers can be paired with matching skirts or trousers for the office, or thrown over a pair of jeans and a vest for a chic afterhours look. Jumpsuits are fantastic for looking effortlessly chic and can be dressed up with accessories on the weekend. Tuxedo dresses can be worn over tights and shirts during the day, and worn on their own in the evening, for a glamorous take on formalwear. And don’t be afraid of patterns – stripes, polka dots and florals can be worn with a crisp white shirt or plain top in the office for an expressive take on the suit, then transformed into a fun outfit with some clashing colours and prints on the weekend.

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E N T E R | TA I N

GREAT SCOTT!

The excellent new album from Mike Scott's Waterboys kicks off our round-up of the essential summer listens. xxx

LISA HANNIGAN A N D S TA R G A Z E

T H E WAT E R B OYS Where The Action Is (Cooking Vinyl) This is the third album in five years from the band officially defined by Wikipedia as “British-Irish”. It all suggests a fresh period of fertile creativity for Mike Scott, and signals a willingness to explore the side roads of rock, folk and poetry, following the hiphop dalliances of 2017’s Out Of All This Blue. The Hammond-driven opening title track storms in like The Who, with fiery Scott vocals. This is a revivified Waterboys firing on every cylinder, with wailing female vocals pushing Scott to the max. It upgrades Robert Parker’s ‘Let’s Go Baby’ with fresh lyrics, plus Steve Wickham’s fuzzed-up fiddle. It’s not a major leap from The Who to The Clash, and ‘London Mick’ – a celebratory tribute to Mick Jones – wears its punk attitude on its sleeve. Some subtlety arrives with ‘Right Side Of Heartbreak (Wrong Side Of Love)’, which plays like U2 gone acoustic. ‘And There’s Love’ has gently swirling synths and a tentative rhythm track, while ‘Out of All This Blue’ – the leftover title track from this previous album – is a heartwarming, Beatlesque ballad. The only backward glance towards Celtic raggle-taggle is the blast of Rabby Burns’ “green grow the rushes-o”, which starts ‘Then She Made The Lasses-0’. Nature is the focus for the nine-minute ‘Piper At The Gates Of Dawn’, with Scott reprising his bohemian poet persona, for a captivating reading from Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind In The Willows. Where The Action Is adds up to 10 tracks with serious intent, comfortably embracing influences from several quarters. Hearteningly, Scott and his merry men are still willing to explore wherever their collective muse takes them.

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RICHARD HAWLEY Further (BMG) The words ‘Richard and ‘Hawley’ on the front of a record have constituted a mark of quality ever since 2005’s cast iron classic, and Mercury-nominated, Coles Corner. With Further, the title referring to the bus the Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters had their cross-country hooley on in 1964, Hawley was determined to keep it upbeat and tight – “if it was a slice of bacon, there’d be no fat on it at all”. The album indeed sports the promised upbeat selections. There’s the raucous opener, which our man describes as the sound of “playing like tomorrow may never happen”; the soaring ‘Alone’; the instant singalong ‘Gallery Girl’; and that great bit in ‘Time Is’, where the harmonica comes wailing in. But it is the more sedate songs that really shine. Try the absolutely gorgeous, and 12 years in the making, ‘My Little Treasures’ – who doesn’t like “cold beer in warm places” – or the summer breeze of the title track. Other highlights include the beautiful tremolo in ‘Not Lonely’; the reverb-heavy ‘Midnight Train; and the sweet and gentle pop of the closing ‘Doors’. Hawley is right, there is no fat. Long-time fans might remember ridiculous media grumbling about Hawley’s “retro” approach when he first broke through, as if it were some kind of flaw. Rather, it allows him to craft records as complete and satisfying as this one, by turns as warm as a lover’s embrace and as tough as the steel his hometown Sheffield is famed for.

Live In Dublin (Play It Again Sam) For many artists, the live album has become something of a conciliatory gesture to fans, labels and critics; a consolidation of work done, while maybe figuring what to do next. For others, it’s a step into a brave new world, an opportunity to explore old songs in new ways, and a chance to augment and evolve. Lisa Hannigan has wowed fans with live performances for the last 17 years, but in the popular imagination, she somehow seemed destined to remain trapped in a Dingle snug, singing otherworldly folk to a select, lucky few. However, her latest offering, Live In Dublin – recorded at the National Concert Hall last October with contemporaryclassical orchestra s t a r g a z e – is terrific. Her brush with snug purgatory aside, Hannigan has carved a rather impressive solo career (three albums, multiple awards), based on her delicate vocals and softly plucked guitars. This collaboration only enhances her songbook, adding layers and cinematic elements to songs previously known for their haunting sparseness. Of the 14 tracks, there is only one new offering, ‘Bookmark’, with the rest being Hannigan staples like ‘Lille’, ‘Little Bird’, ‘A Sail’ and ‘Undertow’. “Hang the rich and spare the young”, she whispers on album closer ‘Fall’, before the song gently fades out. Far from being suffocated by the accompanying orchestra, the songs are instead enhanced by the carefully lush percussion and hypnotic strings. Those familiar with Hannigan will know not to expect any rambling soliloquies about childhood pets in between tracks, and that’s never a bad thing. Her music does enough of the talking.


E N T E R | TA I N

MACHINE SPIRIT

An android asking life’s big questions, a ghostly Victorian mystery, and a collection of short fiction from new Irish talent are all on the agenda, as we take a look at this summer’s must-reads. MIGUEL RUIZ

MACHINES LIKE ME Ian McEwan (Vintage)

In an alternate Britain where Alan Turing survived to usher in the computer age decades early, and the reunited Beatles are on the radio, Charlie blows his inheritance on Adam – the first android endowed with artificial intelligence. What follows is a meditation on life cloaked in a sci-fi ménage à trois, referencing Asimov’s laws of robotics, the computer science conundrum of P versus NP, and Erwin Schrödinger’s Dublin lectures where he tried to answer the question, “What Is Life?” The living systems in Schrödinger’s paradox maintain order despite the second law of thermodynamics’ expectation that isolated systems fall apart, but that’s not what happens here. Adam can’t handle the contradictions of the human condition, so he seeks to expose the lies in Charlie’s partner Miranda’s past, while Britain’s shock defeat in the Falklands echoes Charlie’s fear of losing his place in the natural order. It might not be the most original of concepts, but McEwan’s entertaining novel does get you thinking.

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THINGS IN JARS

James Delargy (Simon & Schuster)

Jess Kidd

(Canongate)

The premise of this debut thriller from the Irish-born James Delargy is a good one. Two men, at different times, walk into a police station in rural Australia, each claiming that the other tried to kill them, as their 55th victim. There is, it seems, a serial killer on the loose, but which one is it? It’s Sergeant Chandler Jenkins’ case – or at least it was until old partner Mitch, now his superior officer, shows up to take over. Old wounds and rivalries re-open, as they try to uncover the truth, Delargy using flashbacks to illustrate how rough the relationship between the two cops has always been. The book rattles along nicely and the rural setting is particularly effective, adding a reral sense of claustrophobia to a thickening plot. Mitch, it emerges, is delightfully easy to hate. By the time you race to the ending, you’ll understand why the movie rights have already been secured. If you see it on your way through the airport, pick it up.

Jess Kidd’s third novel is a Victorian literary mystery like no other – one of the main characters is a ghost, and the victim of the crime is a child that is not fully human. Intrigued? You should be. Protagonist Bridie Devine is an Irish detective with a rigorous mind and fine analytic skill, who rose from the ranks of street urchin, due the kindness of a doctor who became her ward. She is accompanied on this journey by her seven-foot housekeeper Cora Butter and the spectre of a dead boxer, Ruby Doyle, as they endeavour to locate a kidnapped youngster. Kidd has a wonderful descriptive flair, and an ability to weave a dramatic caper that keeps the reader enthralled ’til the last. Her attention to detail is remarkable and she has an enviable ability to bring a diverse range of characters to life with much aplomb. A warm and engaging oddity. Highly recommended.

B E I N G VA R I O U S : N E W I R I S H S H O R T S T O R I E S Edited by Lucy Caldwell (Faber Books)

With previous collections of New Irish Short Stories having been edited by the likes of Joseph O’Connor and Kevin Barry, Belfast-born Lucy Caldwell makes sure that this latest anthology reflects a younger, fresher and stranger Ireland. From the outset – with Yan Ge’s creepy story about a student who becomes obsessed with the social media of a man who passes away a day after meeting her – this collection favours the new. And that freshness comes in many forms. For one thing, two-thirds of the writers are women, meaning that – whether it’s Louise O’Neill, Sinead Gleeson or Sally Rooney – there’s a wealth of talent that might’ve been overlooked in the past. For another, these stories seem geared towards exploring Ireland in all its forms, with subject matter including post-Troubles Northern Ireland and direct provision. The pick of the bunch is Nicole Flattery’s ruthless and surreal short story about a woman who falls in love with a man-sized chicken. Strange Ireland indeed.

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LUHRMANN FOR ALL SEASONS

E N T E R | TA I N

From rip-roaring thrill-rides to classic romances, Roe McDermott selects the best Netflix viewing on offer this summer.

SNOW P IERCER

BABY DRIVER

T H E G R E AT G AT S BY A visually stunning adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel, it’s no wonder that Baz Luhrmann was attracted to the source material. The story about loss, longing and material excess must have been catnip to the flamboyant director, whose Red Curtain Trilogy used dance (Strictly Ballroom), Shakespearian language (Romeo +Juliet) and song (Moulin Rouge) to heighten the atmosphere of his unique universes. Here, Luhrmann has Fitzgerald’s words to guide him, though endless narration and on-screen text of key quotes to further illustrate important points sometimes make for a too literal approach. However, Carey Mulligan and Leonardo DiCaprio are brilliant as the flighty Daisy and enigmatic Gatsby, and the action hurtles along at break-neck pace. Luhrmann’s ringmaster sensibilities coming to the fore during the wild, kaleidoscopic party scenes. His gift for spectacle lends itself well to the bacchanal of burlesque, Charleston and champagne. The hip-hop-heavy soundtrack brilliantly brings Luhrmann’s trademark modern edge, while the genre encapsulates the novel’s message of building an identity around demonstrations of wealth and power. It’s a beautiful spectacle, but its fragile symbolism and introspective ideals are bludgeoned with a glitzy hammer. Stunning visuals and soundtrack, but Fitzgerald fans may find that their count of enchanted objects is diminished by one.

ADRIFT Based on a true story, Adrift sees Tami (Shailene Woodley) meet sensitive British sailor Richard (Sam Claflin), whose wanderlust matches her own – and, surrounded by Tahitian paradise, they can’t help but fall in love. When Richard gets offered a high-paying job sailing a boat back to Tami’s hometown of

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BLAC K 4 7 San Diego, the two set off to sail around the world together – but when a hurricane wrecks their ship, Tami must struggle not just to keep both her and a badly wounded Richard alive, but to also remain hopeful enough to try – not an easy feat when endless weeks pass without a hint of land or rescue. But director Baltasar Kormakur’s decision to jump between the leaking boat and the couple’s initial romance has mixed results. Though Woodley and Claflin are talented actors, the underwritten Tami never seems particularly interesting. Kormakur also relies on covers of songs like ‘I Hope That I Don’t Fall In Love With You’ to create emotion that isn’t conveyed in the script. So the flashbacks don’t achieve the emotional investment intended, and leaving Tami’s on-board struggles so often fails to create a necessary sense of time or growing desperation. But the smooth sailing and stormy sea sequences are effective, capturing the siren call of the ocean, that can be both seductive and deadly.

SNOWPIERCER Groundbreaking not only in its VOD release and success, but also its setting of new standards for hugely entertaining B-movies, Snowpiercer is a devilishly fun, intelligent and thought-provoking sci-fi movie. Examining issues and themes to do with global warming, class, survival and human nature, Joon-ho Bong’s film is incredibly bleak in its worldview – but the layered cynicism is presented with so much vibrating energy, propulsive action, intelligent character arcs and biting wit that its depressing dystopia remains one of the year’s most entertaining, crowd-pleasing films. Set on a perpetually moving train that carries the small remainder of humanity around an ice-covered world, a caste system has left the deprived lower class desperate for revolution. Curtis (a fantastic Chris Evans) reluctantly agrees to lead it, and so begins a video-game ascendance through the train’s many sections. In one, there’s a heart-thumping night-vision battle. In another, a surreally cheerful school marm. In the final car lies the secret to the train – including the depths that humanity sank to during the 17 years on board. The train is a visual masterpiece, at once claustrophobic and allencompassing; and its inhabitants suitably crazy. Tilda Swinton is a scene-stealingly bizarre delight, while John Hurt, Ed Harris and Song Kang-ho bring intelligence and intrigue. A must-see.

BLACK 47 Martin Feeney has come home, but it’s not much of a homecoming. After deserting the British Army while fighting in Afghanistan, Feeney (James Frecheville) arrives back in Connemara and discovers the once idyllic landscape ravaged and littered with corpses, the small cottages now gutted and torched, his family gone. The Famine has decimated the area, and beyond – but Feeney notices that some people have managed not only to survive, but to profit – collaborators who betrayed their families and neighbours, and landlords who exploited the vulnerable and poor. (Hello painful social relevance.) Devastated and enraged, Feeney embarks on a quest for bloody retribution against those responsible for his family’s destruction – but as a deserter, he himself is the target of another man’s mission. It is genuinely shocking that Black 47 is the first major film set during the Famine, rife as the era is with historical weight, political heft and horrifying tragedy. In Lance Daly’s Westerninspired film, Declan Quinn’s desaturated cinematography is effectively bleak, and an elegiac use of Irish is moving. Daly’s vision of a Famine where there is one woman and an abundance of machismo mightn’t be for everyone, but it’s a bold genre film.

BABY DRIVER Filling his car-chase-laden heist flick with characterisations so thin you couldn’t use them as a coaster, beloved cult comedy director Edgar Wright has concocted a film that’s much like its main character, getaway driver Baby (Ansel Elgort). It’s at home when it’s on the move. More than that; it’s glorious when it’s on the move. Every chase sequence is a crackling exercise in fantastic choreography with a killer score. Baby works for crime boss Doc (Kevin Spacey), who directs an ever-rotating assemblage of one-dimensional bank robbers – cool guy Buddy (Jon Hamm), unstable Bats (Jamie Foxx), and beautiful Darling (Eiza Gonzalez.) Baby also has a love interest played by Lily James; she’s not called Manic Pixie Dream Waitress, but she may as well be. Baby Driver’s action and soundtrack are utterly seductive. They’re witty, wild and irrepressible. Everything beyond that is a screenplay coasting in neutral, but there’s enough here to enjoy the ride.


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ATTR AC TIO N S

GLASNEVIN CEMETARY

NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM

DUBLIN EPIC – THE IRISH EMIGRATION MUSEUM The CHQ building, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 906 0861 epicchq.com One of the newest major attractions in Dublin, EPIC tells the unforgettable story of the 10 million Irish people who left their homeland over the centuries – and how they influenced and shaped the world. The interactive galleries make this family-friendly experience an essential destination for everyone with an interest in Ireland’s people, culture and history. The museum also houses the Irish Family History Centre, with experts helping visitors uncover their Irish roots. Shortlisted for European Museum of the Year 2018 and included in the Top 5 Irish Museums on TripAdvisor, EPIC is open from 10am to 6.45pm daily (last entry 5pm).

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY TOURS Finglas Road, Glasnevin, Dublin 11 Tel: (01) 882 6500, glasnevinmuseum.ie The largest non-denominational cemetery in Ireland, Glasnevin is the resting place of some of the

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most famous figures in Irish history. Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Michael Collins and Eamonn DeValera are buried here, next to well-known artists such as Brendan Behan, Luke Kelly and Christy Brown. The hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery covers 124 acres of glorious parkland. Guided tours of the cemetery and museum are available daily, with each guide passionate about telling the stories of Ireland’s complex and fascinating history. The tour of Glasnevin Cemetery, aptly named ‘Dead Interesting’, gives a fascinating view of the heritage in Ireland’s largest cemetery.

THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND Merrion Square West, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661 5133 Nationalgallery.ie First opening its doors in 1864, the National Gallery of Ireland is located in the heart of Dublin city centre and holds the largest collection of European and Irish fine art. The collection numbers 2,500 paintings and approximately 10,000 other works in different media including watercolours, drawings, prints and

sculpture. Fully refurbished in 2017, the gallery reopened a huge selection of previously closed wings. With every major European school of painting represented in the gallery, highlights include The Meeting On The Turret Stairs by Frederic William Burton, in addition to a wing dedicated to JB Yeats.

NATIONAL LIBRARY OF IRELAND 78 Kildare Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 603 0200 nli.ie Boasting one of the most complete archives of Irish documents in the world – including collections of Irish literary greats such as Roddy Doyle, Seamus Heaney, James Joyce, Colm Tóibín and WB Yeats – one could spend hours in this literary sanctum. Dedicated to preserving, collecting and sharing documents and records that tell the story of Irish life, the Library is free to enter. It also offers free exhibitions, tours and workshops for people of all ages. In addition, the acclaimed WB Yeats Exhibition is housed here. An immersive experience, it is layered with original texts by the writer, drawings and

paintings, as well as recorded poems and commentaries by experts.

THE NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM PLUS 22-25 Westmoreland Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 671 8373 waxmuseumplus.ie Dive into a magical mix of past, present and future at the National Wax Museum Plus. This unique experience presents visitors with a plethora of fascinating fun-filled and educational engagements for all ages. Exhibits include imaginative portrayals of Irish writers, musicians and pop cultural icons. Those looking for a thrill must visit the terrifying Chambers of Horror! For something more relaxed, hang out with James Joyce and Oscar Wilde in a literary bar overlooking the Spire. The Museum’s most recent addition is a portrayal of Khaleesi from the hit show Game Of Thrones. Be sure to visit their sister museum The Irish Rock ‘N’ Roll Museum (Curved Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2), to experience the wonderful history of Irish music.


A TALE OF TWO CITIES

Dublin & Belfast

W5

BOTANIC GARDENS

BELFAST BOTANIC GARDENS College Park, Botanic Avenue Tel: (028) 9031 4762 Visitbelfast.com Occupying 28 acres, the Botanic Gardens are a must-see attraction for all lovers of the outdoors. This lush public space opened in 1828 as a private park run by the Royal Belfast Botanical Gardens and attracted thousands of visitors per day. Today, the gardens, which feature two stunning Victorian conservatories – the Palm House and the Tropical Ravine – are fully open to the public. A number of notable concerts have also taken place amongst the gorgeous scenery from the likes of U2, The Kings of Leon and Snow Patrol.

BLACK TAXI TOURS Tel: (028) 9064 2264 belfasttours.com A great way to soak up the history of Belfast is to take a tour in a classic black taxi. Out of the chaos of the Troubles came some of Belfast’s most recognisable landmarks: its murals. The 90-minute taxi ride will take you from east to west and north to south, taking in both sides of the community and how they depicted

the conflict through amazingly detailed murals. All of the drivers have their own lived experience and are always willing to help visitors gain a deeper understanding of the city’s history.

W5 The Odyssey, 2 Queens Quay, Belfast Tel: (028) 9046 7700 w5online.co.uk Right beside the River Lagan, W5 will fascinate children and adults alike with its interactive and fun methods of learning. With humanoid robots and a MED lab which explains pharmaceutical and biomedical science in an entertaining way is not to be missed. W5 is also revealing their new technological space AMAZE. This immersive experience has state-of-the-art screen projectors with soundscapes, motion graphics and props that will take you to some of Northern Ireland’s stunning landscapes without leaving the room. W5 also has Quiet Sessions for children with special needs who may need a more relaxed and quieter environment. W5 is open from Monday to Saturday at 9am to 5:30pm.

TITANIC BELFAST 1 Olympic Way, Queen’s Road, Titanic Quarter, Belfast Tel: (028) 9076 6386 titanicbelfast.com “It’s really quite phenomenal. It’s a magnificent, dramatic building, the biggest Titanic exhibit in the world,” enthuses Titanic film director James Cameron, and we’re not about to disagree with him. The Titanic Belfast is an unforgettable experience and since opening, thousands of visitors have thronged to the centre to learn about the history of the world’s most famous shipping disaster. Voted the World’s Leading Tourist Attraction at the 2016 World Travel Awards in the Maldives, an honour comparable to an Oscar in the world of tourism. Titanic Belfast is open to the public and seasonal opening hours are available at titanicbelfast.com/VisitorInfo.

DINE AROUND DEANES 537 Lisburn Road, Belfast Tel: (028) 9066 3108 michaeldeane.co.uk/dine-arounddeanes Dine Around Deanes is a unique opportunity to sample the delights of Belfast’s most famous restaurant

by visiting each of its four locations throughout the city. Beginning at Deanes and Decano, in the heart of the city centre, you will be ferried around the city in Deanes’ own double decker bus, stopping at each location for a different course – including a stop at the Michelinstar Deanes at Howard Street – and learning about the city’s cuisine along the way. Book early as tickets get snapped up fast!

CRUMLIN ROAD GAOL 53-55 Crumlin Road, Belfast Tel: (028) 9074 1500 The Crumlin Road Gaol is a 19th century Grade A listed jail and the only Victorian prison left in Northern Ireland. Much like Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin, its story is synonymous with the history of Belfast, and some notable historical figures have passed through its walls, including Eamonn DeValera and Martin McGuinness. The tour of the Gaol allows access to all areas, including the underground tunnel which links to the courthouse on the other side of the Crumlin Road, the hanging cell, the Governor’s office, the hospital and the graveyard.

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RESTAURANTS

DINING OUT

Dublin & Belfast CONOR HEAVEY

OX, BELFAST

YAMAMORI SUSHI, DUBLIN

DUBLIN THE WINDING STAIR 40 Lower Ormond Quay, North City, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 872 7320 winding-stair.com For a wholesome Irish restaurant overlooking the River Liffey, complete with a downstairs bookshop, look no further than the Winding Stair. Dishes showcase the finest Irish ingredients by focusing on old-fashioned home cooking and no-fuss recipes. Named after Yeats’ poem, the Winding Stair combines fine cuisine with literary delights, with two floors connected by an 18th century staircase. After treating yourself to a delicious brunch, lunch or dinner, be sure to wander down and peruse the vast selection of books on offer.

FADE STREET SOCIAL 6 Fade Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 604 0066, fadestreetsocial.com Fade Street Social is one of Dublin’s hippest eateries – and for good reason. It’s a meeting place, restaurant, tapas bar and cocktail winter garden, with each constituent part sitting effortlessly alongside the others; each attracts its own crowd and projects its own vibe. The restaurant offers homegrown produce assembled into simple dishes packed with flavour. The gastro bar, meanwhile, allows you to delve into the sharing menu, choosing bite-size, tapas-style taste bursts.

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BELFAST PEARL BRASSERIE 20 Merrion Street Upper, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661 3572 pearl-brasserie.com “We serve modern French cuisine in a warm, relaxed environment”, it says on the website and this much-loved D2 institution duly delivers with a range of dishes that change with the season. Sample the Pan-Fried Quail Breast with Turnip Puree, Mini Pickled Veg or the John Stone Irish Beef Fillet with Red Wine Risotto with Taleggio Cheese & Red Chicory, and you’ll understand why chef Sebastian Masi has a mantlepiece full of awards. The restaurant itself is equally impressive with contemporary artwork on the wall and a famous farmhouse cheese trolley. For the full Pearl Brasserie effect splurge on the Six-Course Surprise Tasting Menu with matching fine wines, which is a truly unforgettable dining experience. Their Ginger Pan-Fried Halibut with Homemade Pasta, Mushroom Sauce & Chanterelle Mushrooms comes highly recommended at €32.

COCO 7-11 Linenhall Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9031 1150 cocobelfast.com This eye-catching eatery is quirky and cool, with the interesting artwork and glitter-ball generating a unique ambience. Found in a historic part of the city behind City Hall, Coco’s aim is to offer food that will give you a hug and keep you coming back for more. Happily, their Seafood Linguini will do just that. Famous fans include Arcade Fire, with hipsters and foodies alike adoring their imaginative and hugely tasty offerings. A particular favourite is the Monkfish on the Bone with Lemon Rice & Seafood Curry Sauce for £17.50.

DEANES LOVE FISH 28-40 Howard Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9033 1134 michaeldeane.co.uk A 100-seater addition to the Deanes family, Love Fish offers one of the best lunch deals in town with a range of £6.50 Lunch Specials – the Prawn Open Sandwich with Fries gets the Enterprise vote! The nighttime fare is just as exciting with a really delectable Seafood Platter for £20. With burgers, perfectly cooked 8oz Sirloins, and some thoroughly decadent desserts this is a great place for delicious food without the fuss. The room is bright and modern, with lots of

polished wood and chalked up Daily Specials.

OX 1 Oxford Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9031 4121, oxbelfast.com Looking out on the River Lagan, this Michelin starred eatery seats just 40, which makes for a wonderfully intimate dining experience. The £60 six-course Seasonal Tasting Menu – £95 with paired wines – is extraordinarily good value and lets you experience the full scope of chef Stephen Toman’s culinary imagination. He’s a firm believer in nose to tail eating, which means lots of alternative cuts of meat. They also push the envelope in terms of the fish and veggie dishes they serve. The diverse drinks selection includes locally microwbrewed beers, and the new wave of gins you rarely find elsewhere in Northern Ireland. More casual dining is available in the next-door OX Cave, which was voted Best Wine Experience in Ireland in 2018..


BAR

LIQUID REFRESHMENT

Dublin & Belfast ELLIE MACLEAN

Sale of the century: Titanic Belfast

THE WILD DUCK, DUBLIN

DUBLIN THE WILD DUCK 17/20 Sycamore Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 535 6849 thewildduck.ie Dublin’s most exciting new theatre, music and food venue, The Wild Duck is a fusion of old Ireland with a contemporary retro flavour. Owned by renowned restaurateur and actor Gary Whelan, The Wild Duck operates as both a stylish place for a quiet drink and a fantastic music venue. It’s also a great place to grab a quick bite if you’re in the Temple Bar area! You’ll find funk rock and traditional bands playing during the weekend; burgers and hotdogs being served up seven days a week; and stunning decor on which to feast your eyes.

THOMAS HOUSE 86 Thomas Street, Dublin 8 Tel: (085) 203 9047 facebook.com/thomashousedublin If it's big name artists in a unique and unusual setting that you like, Thomas House is the place for you. A favourite haunt of the Queen Of Rockabilly herself, Imelda May, it regularly hosts acts that specialise in everything from punk to oldfashioned R&B. Independently owned and run by two local promoters and DJs, it carries a fantastic range of pints and has DJs every night of the week.

MURIEL'S CAFE BAR, BELFAST

BELFAST THE BLACK SHEEP 61 Capel Street, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 873 0013 galwaybaybrewery.com/blacksheep Affectionately known as ‘The People’s Pub’, The Black Sheep is conveniently located at the corner of Capel Street and Parnell Street. Featuring an eye-popping range of craft beers and spirits, you’ll be able to go back time and again and try something new on each occasion. The Black Sheep also serves food from noon up until ten in the evening, with succulent steaks and mouth-watering wings among the highlights. Great as an after-work spot, or as a pre/post-cinema location, you’ll find yourself at home here on both weekdays and weekends.

P. MAC’S 30 Stephen Street Lower, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 405 3653 facebook.com/pmacspub Less than five years after opening its doors, P. Mac’s has established itself as a beloved mainstay of the city centre. Lined with dusty tomes, quirky decorations and a mish-mash of furniture, a massively impressive musical selection complements the vast array of craft beers on offer alongside reliable favourites. This stylish spot is rarely without a crowd.

MURIEL’S CAFÉ BAR 12-14 Church Lane, Belfast Tel: (028) 9033 2445 facebook.com/muriels.cafebar Belfast’s newest gin bar reflects the changing character of the city centre. Mixing its classy setting with a decadent interior (lingerie hangs brazenly from the roof), Muriel’s is part of a number of emerging bars which have made Belfast a hub for nightlife and tourism. Offering some of the best cocktails you’re likely to find anywhere, the Bee’s Knees in particular – featuring Hendrick’s gin and a slab of honey to garnish – is the perfect concoction to get you ready for summer.

THE CROWN LIQUOR SALOON

THE SPANIARD 3 Skipper St, Belfast Tel: (028) 9023 2448, thespaniardbar.com Tucked away in the Cathedral Quarter, there’s a chance you could pass this gem without even realising; we can’t stress what a mistake that would be. Combining a traditional feel with flavours of Iberia and good old-fashioned rock’n’roll, it boasts a flabbergasting array of rums and an unbeatable atmosphere, ensuring there’s never a quiet night. Keep your eyes peeled for a familiar face or two, as the likes of Bill Murray and Sean Bean have been known to pop by when in town.

46 Great Victoria Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9024 3187 nicholsonpubs.co.uk All tourists travelling into Belfast, take note: when leaving the Europe Bus Centre, keep your eyes firmly fixed in front of you, and you’ll gaze upon the essential tourist spot to start your journey. Boasting stunning Victorian architecture, The Crown Bar is one of Belfast’s best-known bars. Thanks to its cosy snug, great pints and brilliant atmosphere, you can’t go wrong here.

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SHOPPING

BEAUTIFUL BUYS

Dublin & Belfast MIGUEL RUIZ

LIBERTY BLUE

FOLKSTER, DUBLIN

DUBLIN INDUSTRY & CO DUBLIN 41 A/B Drury St, Dublin 2 (01) 613 9111 industryandco.com Located just off Grafton Street, Industry has been a welcome addition to Dublin’s design scene since 2010, when it started out as a small boutique. Since then it has expanded to become one of the capital's best-known lifestyle stores, housing both Irish and international products. The award-winning Industry & Co stock everything from plants to cutlery and furniture. As you peruse, be sure to stop by the café for some healthy, freshly made soups, salads and cakes.

& OTHER STORIES 26-27 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 247 0100 stories.com A relatively new addition to Ireland’s fashion scene, & Other Stories opened its Grafton Street store in 2016, and has already built up an adoring fanbase of fashionistas. A part of the Swedish H&M family along with COS, Monki, Weekday and Cheap Monday, & Other Stories features simple, welltailored pieces. They stock classics like jeans, t-shirts and jumpers, as well as on-trend pieces and a great selection of beauty products, jewellery and handbags.

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BELFAST COVET Powerscourt Centre, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 9313 covet.ie Described as a store that provides ‘luxurious lends’, Covet will make you feel as if you’re on your way to the Oscars. With dresses to rent from Alexander McQueen, Oscar de la Renta, Badgley Mischka and Rachel Gilbert, they will also style your hair and make-up for a big night out. You can even borrow a pair of Christian Louboutins to match your outfit.

FOLKSTER 9 Eustace Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (056) 770 3312 folkster.com An affordable, street style-inspired vintage store, Folkster sells everything from uber-glamorous sequin dresses to rough and ready military jackets. Dublin’s Folkster was initially meant to be a pop-up, but its eclectic boutique blend of vintage, contemporary fashion, and interiors has captured many hearts. With stunning costume jewellery, delightful flapper designs and a beautiful bridal section, as well as modern pieces, each handpicked by the owners, we can’t get enough of this gorgeous fashion chest.

BELFAST PRINT WORKSHOP Cotton Court, 30-42 Waring Street (028) 90 231 323 bpw.org.uk Located in the city’s Cathedral Quarter, the Belfast Print Workshop is a playground for artists. At present over 100 artists are involved in the company, rekindling a passion for printmaking. The public can visit the workshop to browse, pick up some prints or book one of the courses available and learn the craft.

LIBERTY BLUE 19-21 Lombard Street, Belfast, Tel: (028) 9023 0396 libertybluebelfast.co.uk Liberty Blue is renowned throughout the city for selling local, independent labels that have a glam vintage flare. An alternative to high street fashion, Liberty Blue is perfect for women who want a touch of uniqueness to their wardrobe without breaking the bank. Not just stocking clothes, the shop sells jewellery and accessories to match your new outfit.

ST GEORGES MARKET 12-20 East Bridge Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9024 6609 If it’s atmosphere you’re after,

look no further than this indoor market known for its selection of beautifully crafted goods and mouthwatering street food stalls. St. Georges is particularly brought to life by a live band strumming in the awe-inspiring surrounds and it’s local independent retailers. The last surviving Victorian covered market is open for only three days a week, Friday - Sunday so be sure to plan accordingly.

NO ALIBIS 83 Botanic Avenue, Belfast Tel: (028) 9031 9601 noalibis.com Perhaps the most loved independent bookstore in Belfast, No Alibis has gained a reputation for its support of local, emerging writers in Northern Ireland, as well as for being a haven to students of Queen's University Belfast. No Alibis is best known for its vast selection of crime fiction and has received the seal of approval from authors over the years, including new writer Steve Cavanagh and Colin Bateman who immortalise the bookstore in his thriller Mystery Man.


ACCOMMODATION

STAYING OVER

Dublin & Belfast

THE NORTH STAR

DUBLIN BULLITT HOTEL

THE NORTH STAR Amiens Street, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 836 3136 northstarhotel.ie Newly refurbished, the four-star North Star Hotel is conveniently located in Dublin’s city centre. The property boasts 235 exceptional guest rooms and suites, offering every amenity to ensure a comfortable and luxurious stay. As well as a fully equipped cardiovascular gym and Scandinavian Saunas, the ground floor features an array of vibrant dining experiences including McGettigan’s Cookhouse and Bar, all day café The Parlor, and trendy loft style cocktail bar The Place. The exclusive Premiere Club Lounge, located on the 7th floor, boasts spectacular views of Dublin’s skyline, with complimentary refreshments, newspapers and full wi-fi connectivity. Guests are invited to relax there any time of the day or night.

THE INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Simmonscourt road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 665-4000 intercontinentaldublin.ie Minutes away from Dublin’s city centre, the award winning Intercontinental hotel sits on two acres of landscaped gardens in the heart of Ballsbridge. This five-star hotel is just steps from the historic RDS and central to locations such as the Aviva Stadium and the 3Arena. Formerly owned by the Four Seasons, the InterContinental has retained all of the style and elegance of its predecessor, offering travellers a tranquil retreat. With afternoon tea, bottomless brunch, a whiskey bar and the

iconic Seasons Restaurant, the Intercontinental boasts a fine array of dinning options sure to cater for any palette.

BROOKS HOTEL 62 Drury St, Dublin 2 (01) 670 4000 brookshotel.ie Brooks Hotel is a distinctive, luxury four-star boutique hotel in Dublin’s Creative Quarter, a short walk from Grafton Street. Enjoy modern Irish and international cuisine at Francesca’s Restaurant, a favourite of the critics, where Head Chef Pat McLarnon serves dishes created from locally sourced ingredients, including fresh herbs from the Brook’s very own ‘urban herb garden’. Elsewhere, you can also visit Jasmine Bar at Brooks, an award-winning Great Whiskey Bar of the World with over 100 different varieties on offer. Bedrooms are well appointed and spacious with quirky designs. The hotel also boasts an oak-panelled Residents Lounge, a private cinema room and a fitness suite.

THE WESTBURY HOTEL Balfe Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 1122 doylecollection.com Dublin hotels don’t get more central than The Westbury, an opulent five-star hotel overlooking Grafton Street’s buzzing shopping hub. Among its renowned attractions are the grand piano on The Terrace, a popular first-floor meeting place for afternoon tea, the €1 million worth of Irish art acquisitions on display in The Gallery Lounge, the high-art cuisine in the Wilde restaurant and the 1930s-style glamour of The Sidecar.

BELFAST TEN SQUARE 10 Donegall Square South, Belfast Tel: (028) 9024 1001 tensquare.co.uk An extraordinary boutique hotel located in the centre of Belfast city’s shopping, business and culture hub, Ten Square impresses guests with its uber-stylish, eclectic look. Aesthetics aside, this is the perfect place to spend a busy city centre break and for a girlie getaway. The cocktails in a teapot come highly recommended!

RAMADA ENCORE 20 Talbot Street, Belfast BT1 2LD, UK Tel: (028) 9026 1800 encorebelfast.co.uk For luxury comfort in a great location, The Ramada Encore is a perfect choice to experience the best of Belfast. With 165 ensuite bedrooms including double, twin and family rooms, it is ideal for business travel as well as short city breaks. Situated in St. Anne’s Square adjacent to The MAC Belfast’s arts centre, The Encore Belfast is also close to many other local attractions including the must see visitor attraction - the Titanic Belfast, St. Anne’s Cathedral and City Hall. The hotel is also home to the beating heart of the Cathedral Quarter, The SQ Bar & Grill. With live entertainment, an inviting outside terrace seating area overlooking the square, and a tempting cocktail list created by the in house mixologist, the Ramada Encore is sure to give you a night to remember.

BULLITT HOTEL 40a Church Lane, Belfast Tel: (028) 9590 0600 bullitthotel.com Want to stay somewhere with all the necessities, none of the nonsense and extra comfort? Look no further than the Belfast Bullitt Hotel, named in honour of the classic 1968 mob movie starring Steve McQueen. Straddling Victoria Street and Ann Street, the hotel has 74 rooms and three bars including an Espresso Bar. If you’re a foodie (who isn’t?) you can get a good grilling at Taylor & Clay, the in-house restaurant, before washing it down with a Bullitt beer in the Bullitt Bar or head on up to the rooftop bar and garden, Babel – a quirky spot for some seriously cool customers. Bullitt offers a variety of room choices, ranging from ‘Dinky’ over ‘Comfy’ to ‘Roomy’, catering for both those travelling solo and those on a family city break.

CULLODEN ESTATE & SPA Bangor Road, Holywood, Belfast Tel: (028) 9042 1066 hastingshotels.com/culloden-estateand-spa Perched high on the slopes of the Holywood Hills, Culloden Estate was originally built as an official palace for the Bishops of Down. This palatial mansion, which overlooks Belfast Lough and the Antrim coastline, stands in 12 acres of beautiful secluded gardens and woodland, making it perfect for a romantic break. It also has an incredible spa, with luxurious treatment suites, relaxation rooms and a swimming pool.

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ENTERPRISE COMPETITION

WIN A MEAL FOR FIVE + €20 BET EACH

AT DUNDALK STADIUM

Dundalk stadium, No.1 entertainment venue in the northeast. Our family friendly stadium is perfect for every occasion from family celebratory meals, work nights out to hens and stags. We cater for every taste, from a four-course dining experience in our fabulous View restaurant to our 'Choose Your Own Tapas' menu. A one of a kind night out with a mix of fabulous food, delicious drinks, racing and after racing music. Bet on the best night out! Ideally situated on the outskirts of Dundalk town, the racecourse is only minutes from the M1 and is less than 45 minutes to reach from Dublin or 60 minutes from Belfast. To see all our packages available please check out www.dundalkstadium.com

THE PRIZE: Enjoy a four-course dinner for five people, with Prosecco included, in the comfort of the View Restaurant plus a €20 free bet each! To enter simply email your answer to enterprise@hotpress.ie. Please include your contact details

THE QUESTION: In which county is Dundalk situated? a. Meath b. Louth c. Monaghan

Terms & conditions: Booking dates subject to restaurant availability and may not be available on certain dates. Entrants must be 18+. Enterprise may contact competition entrants with details of future special offers. Your details won’t be passed on to any third party. Please specify in your email if you would like to opt out of this.

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MATER PRIVATE

ORTHOPAEDIC & SPINE CENTRE

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We’ll always need our surgeons, but with the help of the new ExcelsiusGPS™ robot, we make sure our patients get the best outcomes and quality of care they deserve.

For more information, please contact the Mater Private Orthopaedic & Spine Centre:

Tel: 1800 38 52 85 Email: orthospine@materprivate.ie www.materprivate.ie


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