Enterprise 15-03 - Adrian Dunbar by Hot Press Publishing

ENTERPRISE LINKING DUBLIN AND BELFAST

Volume 15:03

Jockeying For Success RUBY WALSH Singing The Blues MUMFORD & SONS

Lights, Camera, Action!

Keeping It Lit JOHN BOYNE

ADRIAN DUNBAR

IS B A C K IN T HE T HIC K OF T HING S

C R A Z Y R I C H A S I A N S TA R C O N S TA N C E W U + T R AV E L : G O I N G A L L T H E WAY T O R I O

ENTERPRISE – V O L . 1 5 / N O . 0 3

CONTENTS R E G U L A R S

26 F E A T U R E S

18.CALL OF DUTY

06. ENTER HERE

He's appeared in some of Ireland's most iconic films and sucked copious diesel as Superintendent Ted Hastings in Line Of Duty. Having just starred in small-town thriller Blood, it's shaping up to be quite a year for celebrated character actor Adrian Dunbar, who talks to Stuart Clark.

A rundown of what’s hot and happening at your next stop.

20.MUMFORD'S THE WORD

14. RAIL NEWS Up to the minute news from Irish Rail and Translink.

Shortly to hit Belfast and Dublin, folk superstars Mumford & Sons tell Peter McGoran how – after a rigorous touring schedule, a partnership with super-producer Paul Epworth, and a period of reflection – they've made their most brilliantly daring album yet in Delta.

3 0 . T R AV E L

24.THE LIT CROWD

32. BUSINESS

John Boyne tackles literary ambition in his new novel A Ladder To The Sky. He talks about his own early searches for a publishing deal, the pitfalls of the book world, and entering a fertile writing period.

An in-depth guide to the must-see attractions in Rio.

A look at one of Dublin's top restaurants, Le Bon Crubeen.

26.CRAZY IN LOVE

40. REVIEWS

Actress Constance Wu talks about her role in mega-hit Crazy Rich Asians, a brilliantly fun movie that also marks a welcome shift in how ethnicity is treated onscreen.

We pick out the highlights from the latest book, album and Netflix releases.

34.RACING CERT

4 4 . AT T R A C T I O N S

Iconic jockey Ruby Walsh discusses the joys of festive racing at Limerick and Leopardstown, and also reflects on winning the Grand National, meeting Queen Elizabeth, and being immortalised in song by Christy Moore.

Markets, bars, restaurants and hotels, and the best in shopping both North and South.

ENTERPRISE – EDITOR’S LETTER

EDITOR: Máirín Sheehy

CONOR LUDDY

CREDITS

VOL: 15 ISSUE:03

COMMISSIONING EDITOR: Roisin Dwyer CONTRIBUTORS: Stuart Clark, Roisin Dwyer, Peter McGoran, Roe McDermott, Paul Nolan, Peter McNally, Aoife Bradshaw, Michael Kealy DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Hot Press, 100 Capel Street, Dublin 1 Ireland's west coast: home to an extraordinary marine ecosystem

DESIGN: Lili Ferreira, Eimear O'Connor Karen Kelleher ADVERTISING MANAGER: Tom Corcoran GROUP ADVERTISING MANAGER Catherine Madden PUBLISHER: Niall Stokes ENTERPRISE IS PUBLISHED FOR N I R A I LWAY S A N D IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY: Osnovina Ltd 100 Capel Street, Dublin 1 TELEPHONE: +353 1 2411 500 EMAIL: enterprise@hotpress.ie LETTERS: The Editor, Enterprise Magazine, 100 Capel Street, Dublin 1 PRINTED BY: Boylan’s Print

While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of N I Railways and Iarnród Eireann. All material © Osnovina 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited

WHEN WE MEET AT THE SHARK END OF THE STREET Beneath the ocean, an astonishing other world plays itself out around the clock. So what can we read into the fact that the Sailfin Rough Shark is eating the eggs of the Blackmouth Catshark? That is what might be described as a good question...

cience is such a remarkable thing. It succeeds in reminding us again and again how much we don’t know. One of the most fascinating news stories of recent times concerned sharks. Did you know that just 200 miles off the western coast of Ireland there are coral reefs? For years, it was the last thing a lot of us might have a associated with the shivery waters of the Atlantic Ocean. But below the sea, it is a different world entirely. At a depth of 750 metres underneath the surface of the sea, a bed of white corals look like a kind of oceanic oasis, once the lights are shone on it. But the electrifying beauty of the whiteness of the corals is shadowed by something else. Fish are swimming in significant numbers in the waters around the white seabed. Looking at them you’d imagine they are innocent creatures. They are there in thousands, doing that thing odd fish do, swimming around endlessly to no apparent purpose. Observing them, you get a distinct sense that this is exactly how we might look to other creatures watching from above. Do these fish think of themselves, in some obscure way, as rulers of the world? It is unlikely. The Blackmouth Catshark is a predator that feeds off lower forms of fish life. It is fished and caught but considered of little economic value. It is not at risk of extinction, with numbers remaining more or less consistent. It is not dangerous to human beings. It is found as far north as Iceland, and all the way down to Senegal in Africa. It is one of those remarkable things: an almost entirely unremarkable member of the fish community. On the corals, you can see something unfamiliar. Thousands of sharks’ eggs have been deposited on the floor of the ocean by the females of the species. There is, as is generally the case in nature, a very good reason for this. During the process of their

evolution, the sharks worked out that the corals offered good refuge for their young. Good, but not perfect. The underwater area that was filmed by the Marine Institute’s remotely operated vehicle, Holland 1, was also home to a kind of loner: a larger, solitary fish known as the Sailfin Rough Shark. The cameras picked up just one of these, hovering with intent. It is a kind of neighbourhood bully. It preys on the eggs laid by the Blackmouth Catshark, gobbling them up to stay alive. Its ruthless predatorily behaviour notwithstanding, this particular species is endangered. As human psychologists will tell you, hanging around on your own all day is not good for you. The Sailfin Rough Shark is not in a good place. It is not even as if it is a highly prized seafood rarity. Like its little cousin, it is regarded as having little or no commercial value. And yet, it keeps on keeping on, as best it can, struggling desperately to survive. So far it has succeeded. But its time may come very soon. And you have to ask: will the Blackmouth Catshark sleep better then in their watery habitat? The answer is yes: it will indeed. But glimpsing down into those coral reefs, you are still faced with the question: does any of this make any difference at all to the generality of experience? There is probably no reliable answer to that question. We all know that a butterfly flapping its wings in Australia can cause a hurricane in Europe. Well, in a way the same applies here. The mysteries of life are deep and wide-ranging We sometimes imagine ourselves to be the pinnacle of everything – and we probably are. But all over the world, in every minute, of every hour, of every day, an endlessly unquantifiable litany of natural events occur involving every status of creature, and of plant life. The implication of all of this we will leave to you. But it is probably worth noting just how much we have to learn. There is no better point to start than now...

_MAÍRÍNSHEEHY | EDITOR

Enterprise Dublin-Belfast

#discoverni

More great value escapes to Belfast 48 hours of culture for less What’s the perfect great value escape to Belfast? A Rail & Room deal, of course. You’ve got travel and accommodation taken care of – at a brilliant price. And because your hotel’s located right in the middle of the city, it’s even easier to fit more into every moment. The Enterprise Service from Dublin to Lanyon Place station in Belfast is a treat in itself, and in two hours you’re ready to explore all the city has to offer – like some Michelin-star dining or explore the world famous Titanic Belfast before a visit to HMS Caroline, the last surviving warship from WW1’s Battle of Jutland. Up-coming events include Fleadh Feirste: The Gaeltacht Quarter Festival (28 November – 1 December), a vibrant cultural festival packed with something for everyone. Don’t miss the now famous Belfast Christmas market (17 November - 22 December). Make more of every moment this Autumn/Winter with a Rail & Room break in Belfast. Northern Ireland. Say hello to more

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by Peter McNally & Michael Kealy

IRELAND V NEW ZEALAND Aviva Stadium Dublin, November 17

The rugby match of the year will take place in the Aviva Stadium, Dublin on November 17 as Ireland go up against the mighty All Blacks. The autumn international series kicks off November 10 against Argentina in the Aviva. But it's the New Zealand clash a week later that will seize the headlines, as Ireland again try to overcome the aristocrats of the world game. Ireland are coming off the back of

an extremely successful season, having landed their third ever Grand Slam, and enjoyed a 2-1 victory over Australia in a three-test series last June. In addition, the Irish squad lining out for these fixtures will be a good representation of the possible World Cup squad next year. Overall, there will be a huge level of interest, and the Irish team will no doubt be looking to end a memorable year on a high.

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TOM BEARD

FLORENCE AND THE MACHINE 3 Arena, Dublin, November 19 June 2018 found Florence & The Machine releasing her keenly anticipated album High As Hope, the follow-up to her hit LP How Big, How Blue, How Beautiful. Exploring themes of loneliness and heartache, the record is a more minimalist affair than previous Machine offerings. Florence and co. have been busy touring internationally since the record’s arrival, with a brace of dates at the renowned Hollywood Bowl among the notable stops on the itinerary.

NEW YEAR’S EVE IN DUBLIN A N D B E L FAS T Dublin City Centre / Titanic Quarter Belfast The New Year will be welcomed in style in both Dublin and Belfast. In Dublin, singer Gavin James headlines the 3Countdown Concert at Custom House with special guests Hudson Taylor, Wild Youth and Inhaler. In Belfast, there will be a fun-filled extravaganza at the Titanic Belfast New Year’s Eve event, including music, cocktails and DJs.

Explore the life and works of one of Ireland’s best loved writers

A free National Library of Ireland exhibition at the Bank of Ireland Cultural & Heritage Centre, Westmoreland St, Dublin 2 Monday to Saturday 10am – 4pm (last admission 3.30pm)

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CHRIS HEANEY

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B E L FAS T C H R I S T M AS M A R K E T

RDS Main Hall, Dublin, November 24 Set to be one of Ireland’s biggest ever gaming events, the Dublin Gaming Festival takes over the RDS this November. The festival will host a huge expo area; a community gaming zone; a retro gaming zone for 8-bit fans; keynote speeches; a job fair; and a massive two-floor, radio-controlled Mario Kart Racecourse. RAID Gaming Solutions will run a series of e-sports tournaments in the run-up to the event, as well as at the festival itself. Popular e-sports titles will also be showcased, such as League Of Legends, Fortnite, Counter-Strike: Global Offensive, Overwatch and much more.

Belfast City Hall, November 17 – December 22 Set against the spectacular backdrop of Belfast City Hall, the Belfast Christmas Market is a perfect pit stop for coach parties, day-trippers and city shoppers alike. Offering a unique and exciting festive experience, the Belfast Christmas Market boasts an assortment of international cuisine, carefully curated handmade goods and bespoke artisan products. Whether you want to enjoy a warming mug of hot Glühwein, or indulge in some mouth-watering Belgian chocolates, baklava, crepes, specialty cheeses or savour the delicate flavours of meats from across the continent, the market has something to cater for all palettes. You can also bring the kids to visit Santa in his magical grotto, take a ride on the vintage carousel, or get a bird’s eye view of the market from the top of the helter skelter. The market is open from 10am daily and 12 noon on Sundays.

S N O W PAT R O L

GUINNESS PRO 14 LEINSTER V ULSTER

SSE Arena, Belfast, December 7 & 8 / 3Arena, Dublin, December 11 Snow Patrol are touring in support of Wildness, their first LP in seven years. The album contains the band’s trademark mixture of exhilarating rockers and soaring ballads, making for one of the records of the year. Throw in classic hits like ‘Run’, ‘Chocolate’ and ‘Chasing Cars’, as well as the band’s powerful and charismatic stage presence, and this should be a memorable series of shows in Belfast and Dublin.

RDS Arena Dublin, January 5 The two sides have had some memorable battles together in the past. When they last met, Leinster were the runaway winners 38-7. A tough game can be expected again for Ulster. Leo Cullen, Leinster head coach, never accepts his side showing any complacency. Ulster captain and rugby legend, Rory Best, will be welcomed warmly by both sets of supporters.

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B O Y G E O R G E & C U LT U R E C L U B

R U D I M E N TA L

3Arena, Dublin, November 25 This is a new era for the iconic ’80s superstar – he’s reuniting with his former bandmates to work on new music for the first time in 20 years. Having completed a US excursion during the summer, they hit Ireland in November. The Grammy-winning band are bringing ‘The Life Tour’ to Dublin’s 3Arena, with special guest Tom Bailey of Thompson Twins fame rounding out the bill. Since their inception in 1981, Culture Club have sold more than 150 million records worldwide, and created some era-defining hits, including ‘Do You Really Want To Hurt Me’ and ‘Karma Chameleon’.

Waterfront Hall, Belfast, January 19 / Olympia Theatre, Dublin, January 20 The east London luminaries return to Ireland as part of the Toast To Our Differences Tour. They’ve already released two singles from the album of the same name, including worldwide hit ‘These Days’ featuring Jess Glynne, Macklemore and Dan Caplen, and ‘Let Me Live’, with Anne Marie and Mr. Eazi. Much of their summer was spent on the road, including a coveted weekly residency at Ibiza Rocks. The band have also been putting the finishing touches to a hugely anticipated new album.

Breakfast ON HILTON

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BOOK ONLINE AT HILTON.COM/BELFAST FROM £115 PER NIGHT*

Hilton Belfast is located adjacent Lanyon Place Station (formerly Central Station) in the heart of the city centre, next to the Waterfront Hall and within walking distance to St. George’s Market, Victoria Square, and the Cathedral Quarter. The perfect location for great shopping, restaurants, bars and local attractions, including the award-winning Titanic Belfast. Book the Breakfast on Us or by phone using Special offer/ promotion code PR20BB, phone: +442890277000 hilton.co.uk/belfast *Terms and conditions apply. See offer details on website. Rates may vary by date but complimentary breakfast available on all dates for guests booking this particular offer.

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PA D DY WAG O N TO U RS Paddywagon Tours celebrated 20 years in business in 2018 by winning the coveted Coach Operator Of The Year. Renowned for the quality of their vehicles, guides, range of routes and the fact that they operate 52 weeks of the year; Paddywagon offer daily day tours, as well as tours from two–nine days in duration, that take in all of the fantastic natural and heritage attractions the island has to offer. Whether you want to explore staggering natural phenomena like the Cliffs Of Moher or the Giant’s Causeway, or beautiful historic cities like Galway, Kilkenny and Belfast, Paddywagon Tours will get you there in comfort and informed. Apply code “enterprise” at online checkout for a 10% discount.

L I LY A L L E N Olympia Theatre, Dublin, December 11 Last June found pop icon Lily Allen releasing her latest album No Shame, which she described as a reflection on personal issues she has faced in recent years. Lead single ‘Lost My Mind’ was one of the singer’s finest efforts to date, and with a string of pop classics to call on, her Irish fans should be in for a treat. STEVE BACCON

BRIAN BOWEN SMITH

JOSH GROBAN

BOYZONE

3Arena, Dublin, December 16 The contemporary-classical star hits 3Arena in December, as part of his first excursion since sell-out 2015/16 Stages tour. Groban will be playing hits from across his eight albums, all of which have enjoyed considerable acclaim. Noted for his passionate shows, the singer is sure to put in another spellbinding performance at this pre-Xmas Dublin date.

SSE Arena, Belfast January 23 / 3Arena Dublin, January 24 After more than two decades together, Boyzone say goodbye with their new album Thank You & Goodnight. On the Farewell arena tour, the band are expected to play new song ‘I Can Dream’, which includes a lead vocal from late member Stephen Gately. In addition, of course, the band will be performing a selection of their biggest hits, including ‘Love Me For A Reason’ and ‘Father And Son’.

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L E O PA R D STOW N C H R I S T M AS F E S T I VA L

THE 1975 SSE Arena, Belfast, January 9 / 3Arena Dublin, January 10 The Matt Healy-fronted group hit Belfast and Dublin as part of the tour for their latest LP, A Brief Inquiry Into Online Relationships, another stellar collection of indie-pop gems. Joining The 1975 on the bill are rising stars Pale Waves and No Rome – who Healy calls his muse. It will all make for two memorable evenings of singalong-friendly arena anthems.

Leopardstown Racecourse, Dublin, December 26-29 Filled with glamour, music, entertainment and top class National Hunt racing, the Leopardstown Christmas Festival has become a much-loved Yuletide tradition. As well as seven Grade 1 races, the event also boasts live music in the festival marquee; DJs in the Champions Pavilion; and children’s activities on the festival Family Day (December 29). December 28, meanwhile, is the official Ladies Day of the Christmas Festival and features the Savills Style Awards.

COMPETITION WIN 2 nights B & B with 1 dinner in the fabulous Wyatt Hotel, Westport The Wyatt Hotel is a charming 3* boutique style hotel located in the heart of glorious Westport town boasting a renowned welcoming atmosphere popular with visitors and locals alike. This bustling property has 63 tastefully decorated rooms, an upmarket Brasserie, a lively traditional Irish Bar, as well as an award winning Restaurant.

To be with a chance of winning this great prize simply answer the question below and send your answer to enterprise@hotpress.ie. Please include your contact details and good luck!

In which city will you find the Titanic Visitor Attraction? (A) Galway (B) Belfast (C) Dublin Terms & Conditions: The prize is valid for one year, and subject to availability. No cash alternatives will be offered. Entrants must be 18+. Enterprise may contact competition entrants with details of future special offers. Your details wonʼt be passed on to any third party. Please specify in your email if you would like to opt out of this.

Give the gift of choice this Christmas with a Select Hotels of Ireland voucher. One voucher can be used in 30 hotels nationwide with prices starting from €50 by going online at www.selecthotels.ie or calling 1850 200 560

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LORD OF THE DANCE Waterfront Hall, Belfast, February 6-10 Following its run of sell-out of shows last year, Michael Flatley’s Lord Of The Dance: Dangerous Games returns for seven additional performances. The new tour includes fresh staging, costumes, and choreography, and following Flatley’s departure, his dancing shoes have been filled by his extremely capable protégés James Keegan, Matthew Smith and Fergal Keaney. Composer Gerard Fahy, meanwhile, has also given the iconic score a fresh twist.

CHVRCHES Ulster Hall, Belfast, February 19 / Olympia Theatre, Dublin, February 21 The Glaswegian synth-pop trio enjoyed further acclaim for their latest album, Love Is Dead, which featured a notable guest appearance from The National’s Matt Berninger. Singer Lauren Mayberry is one of the most charismatic vocalists around and the band’s irresistible electro grooves always make for a terrific evening.

Joy Gerrard Protest Crowd London (Brexit 2, June 2018)

CROSSING LINES Highlanes Gallery & F.E. McWilliam Gallery and studio November 23 to January 26 This is a joint exhibition which will run in both galleries. It explores ideas of dissent, dissonance, and difference in art and society – and the important role that art has had in challenging traditional thinking. Among the artists exhibiting are Stuart Brisley, Duncan Campbell, Susan Phillipsz, Maud Sulter, Victor Sloan and Joy Gerrard. At its heart, the exhibition wishes to increase cross-community and crossborder co-operation in the arts and culture, and considers how human expression can shape society.

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Belfast City Marathon

BELFAST CITY MARATHON: NEW DAY! NEW ROUTE! NEW APP!Â TRANSLINK IS THE OFFICIAL TRANSPORT PARTNER OF THE DEEP RIVERROCK B E L FAS T C I T Y M A R AT H O N TA K I N G P L AC E O N 5 M AY 2019. 14

Launched in 1982, the 38th year of the event is set to make history by moving to a Sunday. The largest single participatory sporting event in Northern Ireland is set for a massive year of change with a brand new, flatter and faster route for marathon participants and a new start location on the grounds of the iconic Stormont Estate. Starting at Stormont at 9am, the marathon route will encompass all four corners of the city, north, east, west and south, finishing at Ormeau Park. It will be ideal for a first-time marathon runner or anyone seeking a PB.

The event returns with a full line-up of events to suit all levels of fitness, including the Marathon and Wheelchair Race, Team Relay (between 2-5 people), 8 Mile Walk and a 2.5 mile Fun Run. The Deep RiverRock Belfast City Marathon is delighted to be able to work with five charity partners in 2019, including Cancer Focus NI, Belfast Arthroplasty Research Trust (BART), Action Mental Health, Stroke Association NI and Air Ambulance NI. Entries are open now via the new My Ticket app at belfastcitymarathon.com. The final entry deadline will be midnight on Friday 12th April 2019.

TRAIN|NEWS

TRANSLINK YOUTH SUMMIT 2018

Last year, Translink’s first ever Youth Summit was a big success; a fun and creative platform for discussion and debate with young people around Translink services, products, passenger experience and priorities. Working again in partnership with the NI Youth Forum, this year’s

Youth Summit (#TYS18) will take place on November 17 in Belfast Met, Titanic Quarter, so Translink and young people can once more join together, take action and make progress! Find out more at translink.co.uk/youthsummit/

LANYON PLACE TIME TO GLIDE Glider is Translink’s new innovative mode of public transport for an energised Belfast, enhancing connectivity and providing direct cross-city services between east and west Belfast, linking into Titanic Quarter via the city centre. Glider customers enjoy an effortless and smooth way to travel with a modern, highcapacity and high-frequency rapid transit service which integrates into the existing bus and rail network. Additional features include free on-board wi-fi, USB charging facilities, audio next stop and destination announcements, CCTV and airconditioning. Glider services operate every 7-8 minutes throughout the working day and each vehicle can accommodate up to 105 passengers. The new off-board ticketing system also speeds up boarding times with a focus on integration, flexibility and convenience. For more information visit translink.co.uk/gliderbelfast and follow @ Translink_NI #GliderBelfast.

SCORING GOALS WITH GAA & IRISH FA Translink recently launched partnerships with two major sports organisations nurturing local talent at a grassroots level and promoting healthier lifestyles. The Ulster GAA Coach of the Year Awards celebrate work carried out by volunteer club coaches across the province, recognising the lasting impressions they make on both individuals and communities. The new Irish FA Translink Schools Gold Cup involves eight post-primary schools who have been awarded the Gold Schools Quality Mark accreditation by the Irish FA Foundation. Schools are ranked by their performances over three age groups, with one winning the Translink Gold Cup and claiming ‘Top Football Performance School’ status in Northern Ireland. Good luck to everyone involved!

The former Belfast Central Station has been renamed Lanyon Place Station following an extensive £1 million refurbishment. The station frontage has been transformed and new signage added, making it more welcoming and passenger-friendly, as well as being a potential catalyst for further development in the area. The new name is taken from the nearby ‘Lanyon’ district, itself named for the noted Victorian architect Sir Charles Lanyon, who was responsible for some of Belfast’s finest buildings. The name also better reflects the station’s location at the heart of Lanyon Place. Over 2.8 million passengers used Lanyon Place Station last year and it’s hoped this latest major development will continue to make Translink your first choice for travel in Northern Ireland. The renaming has also been extended to the newly located Lanyon Place Glider/Metro Halt, situated approximately 25 metres from the station exit (turn right on leaving), and Enterprise passengers can use their Enterprise ticket to avail of the a free connection to the city centre on any Glider or Metro Service.

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TRAINS TO GET ROLLS-ROYCE TREATMENT AS MOVE TO HYBRID TECHNOLOGY BEGINS

Iarnród Éireann is working with Rolls-Royce to chart a course to a hybrid energy future on the existing Intercity railcar fleet. This will see the design, supply, installation and commissioning of hybrid powerpacks on three Intercity Railcar trains (nine carriages) – the backbone of the national Intercity rail service – which would be complete by 2021. Subject to the success of the trials, Iarnród Éireann would plan to convert its entire Intercity Railcar fleet of 234 carriages, which operate on all Intercity routes, to the hybrid technology. Simulations have demonstrated that this can, depending on route and timetable, produce fuel savings of up to 33%. Jim Meade, Chief Executive of Iarnród Éireann, said: “We’re delighted to be able to join forces with RollsRoyce in bringing a new and eco-friendly kind of rail technology to Ireland. As well as environmental and cost benefits, our passengers will greatly appreciate the journey on an even quieter train.” Andreas Schell, CEO of RollsRoyce Power Systems, said: “Iarnród Éireann is clearly impressed by our innovative drive system, so we’re immensely satisfied. With our MTU Hybrid PowerPack, we can

achieve fuel savings of over 30% in this application. That’s no mean feat and something we’re very proud of.” The Hybrid PowerPack is an eco-friendly drive system which combines the advantages of diesel and battery-powered rail traction. It incorporates a diesel engine plus an electric machine, which can be used either as an electric motor or generator, and an EnergyPack battery system which stores the energy recovered during braking. This enables significant decreases in fuel consumption and CO2 emissions – in the case of Iarnród Éireann a drop in fuel consumption of up to 33% is predicted. Iarnród Eireann’s fleet strategy already envisages a future which moves away from diesel power for new trains, so there will be further environmental and cost benefits from conversion of existing fleet. Under the National Development Plan, the rail fleet is to be increased by 300 vehicles – almost 50% – with electric and hybrid options being assessed. This will also facilitate the DART Expansion programme, which will see the electrification of routes to Drogheda, Maynooth/ M3 Parkway and Hazelhatch over the lifetime of the NDP.

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DART FREQUENCY U P, A N D EXTRA COMMUTER TRAINS FROM DECEMBER After the introduction of a more frequent DART service in September, Iarnród Éireann are preparing to expand off-peak and weekend Commuter services from December onwards. Following the expansion of DART frequency – which now sees DARTs operating every 10 minutes each way from 06.50hrs to 20.00hrs Monday to Friday – the Maynooth, Drogheda and Phoenix Park Tunnel lines will see an increase in frequency from December onwards. This will see more off-peak weekday services on all three routes, and weekend services on Maynooth and Drogheda lines, ideal for commuters with variable working hours and for customers travelling for leisure and social reasons. Details of the new schedules will be available soon on irishrail.ie

PEARSE GETS THE ROOFERS IN Iarnród Éireann is beginning work on the renewal of the roof in Dublin’s Pearse Station. The roof structure dates from the 1880s and now requires replacement as a crucial safety project. While the roof is not a protected structure, Iarnród Éireann will ensure the external appearance and character of the structure will be maintained. The project will cost in the region of €17 million and is funded by the National Transport Authority and it will take 23 months to complete. While the vast majority of works will not be disruptive to rail services and are also planned to take place at daytime to reduce impact on the surrounding areas, Iarnród Éireann does expect that the station will need to be closed for up to 13 weekends over the 23 month period for round-the-clock works.

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Call of

Duty

He’s appeared in some of Ireland’s most iconic films and sucked copious diesel as Superintendent Ted Hastings in Line Of Duty. Having just starred in smalltown thriller Blood it’s shaping up to be quite a year for celebrated character actor ADRIAN DUNBAR. I N T ERV I E W ST UART C LA R K

drian Dunbar is one of Ireland’s great character actors. He is currently shooting the fifth season of hit BBC copper caper Line of Duty in Belfast, reprising his role as upstanding anti-corruption chief Ted Hastings. It follows a triumphant turn in Irish thriller Blood, which has recently concluded on Virgin Media (formerly known as TV3) and will be coming to the UK courtesy of Channel 5. Line of Duty and Blood are in many ways exact opposities. In the former Dunbar is the embodiment of moral rectitude. His character in Blood – a somewhat self-satisfied doctor in a small Midlands town – is very different. “It’s about love, loyalty and family – and a secret that ends up threatening all of those things,” Dunbar (60) explains of the series, which, in addition to its Channel 5 berth is set to air in the US via streaming service Acorn. “Cat, my character’s daughter, who’s played by Carolina Main, becomes very suspicious of the circumstances in which her mother dies. She suspects her father and sets out on her path of investigation. You’ll find yourself saying she’s right one minute and wrong the next, then questioning whether the father is bad or good, and asking whether Cat might be going a little crazy or becoming paranoid.” Like the big Nordic Noir shows it seeks to emulate – Broadchurch is the other major influence – Blood is grounded in a specific sense of place, the universal themes put through an Irish filter. “Yeah, it doesn’t over-explain itself or worry that they mightn’t get something in London or Los Angeles. The cultural differences are a big part of what makes series appealing to people in other countries.”

The thermals Adrian brought with him for the Meath and Kildare shoots remained in their wrappers as, for once, the Irish weather decided to be consistently balmy. “It’s probably not as dark and gloomy as they wanted it to be in parts because the sun was always shining,” he laughs. “There are lots of stories about Game Of Thrones actors getting hypothermia filming in Northern Ireland. We had the opposite problem.” Although his CV includes such landmark films and TV series as Cracker, Inspector Morse, The Crying Game, Silent Witness, The Secret Scripture, Ashes To Ashes and the aforementioned My Left Foot, it’s only since bagging the role of Superintendent Ted Hastings in the much garlanded Line Of Duty – by Bodyguard writer Jed Mercurio – that Adrian’s become a bona fide household name. “We did the first series in Birmingham and then moved to Belfast, which is great because I’ve a house in north county Leitrim near Sligo that I can shoot up from,” he reveals. “The city’s really taken Ted, who’s a very positive character, to its heart. There’s a girl in George’s Market selling t-shirts with his ‘Now you’re sucking diesel’ saying on them. It’s the first time I’ve done a recurring series that’s really caught the public’s imagination. For this to be happening 35-years after I graduated from the Guildhall School of Drama is really quite something. I imagine you’re old enough to have watched Dad’s Army…” Sadly, I remember being allowed to stay up past my usual 7pm bedtime to see the first black and white episode. “Well, Arthur Lowe was in and out of things until he struck gold well into his fifties as Captain Mainwaring. Line Of Duty is my Arthur Lowe moment – a stroke of good fortune which has

Adrian Dunbar

“IT’S ABOUT LOVE, LOYALTY AND FAMILY – AND A SECRET THAT ENDS UP THREATENING ALL OF THOSE THINGS”

Adrian with his AC-12 colleagues in The Line Of Duty and (left) playing opposite Brendan Gleeson in The General

opened even more doors for me at this relatively late stage of my career.” At what point did he realise Ted Hastings and Detective Sergeants Steve Arnott and Kate Fleming were going to become etched onto the public consciousness? “You could tell straight away that the structure was good and the writing top notch. But it wasn’t until the first few episodes of Season 2 that it started to really build an audience. A couple of money men in an office could’ve killed it off after the first series. But BBC2 and Northern Ireland Screen were passionate enough about Line Of Duty to bring it back and have been rewarded with a load of BAFTA nominations.” You’ll be able to get your next Ted fix in 2019 when him and his AC-12 internal affairs colleagues return in Line Of Duty Season 5, which is shooting as we speak. Last year saw Dunbar affect a very passable Norwegian accent for The Snowman, the big screen adaptation of the Jo Nesbø bestseller, which included a car crash turn from Val Kilmer who for reasons never fully explained could barely get his lines out. Otherwise, the Harry Hole detective yarn made effective use of a cast that also included Michael Fassbender, Rebecca Ferguson, Chloe Sevigny and Charlotte Gainsbourg.

“Val was very ill at the time, so it was a bit difficult but overall being in a new place with those people was good fun,” Adrian reflects diplomatically. “I got to hang out with Michael Fassbender who’s a really nice guy. We swapped war stories one night over a big meal of lobsters, which was memorable. I also got on well with the director, Tomas Alfredson, who’d previously done the Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy film with Gary Oldman. It was an interesting group to be part of.” When it comes to career highlights, Dunbar has quite a list. “Appearing alongside Robbie Coltrane in the first episode of Cracker was a proud moment because it was so radical and went on to become hugely successful,” he concludes. “Co-writing and appearing in Hear My Song (about Derry-born singer Josef Locke) was great. It was also a privilege to be in My Left Foot and The General. I’ve had really good experiences with Jim Sheridan, Neil Jordan and John Boorman and learned huge amounts about filmmaking.” Line of Duty returns to BBC One in early 2019. Blood can currently be watched on the Virgin Media Player and is due to air on Channel 5.

MUMFORDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

T h e Wo r d

t’s fair to say that when Mumford & Sons first hit the limelight back in 2010, their rise was unexpected. They were a rousing folk band who were mates with Amy Winehouse, and they’d selffinanced a debut album which was intriguing, courtesy of stirring ballads such as ‘The Cave’ and ‘Little Lion Man’. But headliner status in the States? Performing on TV with Bob Dylan? Topping charts over in Australia and New Zealand? This was beyond their wildest dreams. Everything since the release of their debut album, Sigh No More, has felt like Mumford & Sons trying to catch up with their runaway achievements. 2012’s Babel leaned too heavily on the characteristics that made their first album so successful, while Wilder Mind leaned more towards electronic cues that tried to accommodate their place as arena headliners. Yet it didn’t feel immediately natural for them. That’s not to say that either of these albums were bad – they were good – but as more and more folk bands tried to emulate Mumford & Sons’ waistcoat-wearing, heart-on-sleeve lyricism (some call it ‘nu-folk’), there’s been a pressing need to reinvigorate their image. Delta, the band’s newest album, gets released this November. It marks a step towards a new direction. Co-vocalist and guitarist Ben Lovett notes, “It feels like this might be the most important thing we’ve ever done with our lives.” Ben’s out in LA getting ready for the album release. Along with the other three members of Mumford & Sons, he’s on a press wheel up right up until November 16. But unlike when he’s done this before, he doesn’t mind doing interview after interview. As a matter of fact, he’s actually pretty excited about talking about the new album. “This one feels pretty different,” he laughs, when I ask him whether he enjoys getting up early for a natter (it’s 8am on in LA). “It’s different compared to other times when we’ve been talking about new albums. You know, we’ve loved everything we’ve done. There’s something about Delta which feels special.” The album came about in the midst of an exceptionally busy couple of years, which saw them touring throughout 2015-2016 and producing a mini-album, called Johannesburg. “We don’t really believe in breaks,” Ben tells me. “We were touring Wilder Mind in 2015-2016. In the middle of doing that we recorded Johannesburg. Then we kept on touring through 2017 and we did 70 shows that year. But towards the end of that year, we got an opportunity to try out some songs with Paul Epworth.” Epworth, an acclaimed producer who has worked with commercially successful artists like Adele and Rihanna, as well as cult acts like The Horrors, helped them unlock ideas they’d had rattling around for a while. “We went in and did one song with him – sort of as a

Mumford & Sons

After a rigorous touring schedule, a partnership with super-producer Paul Epworth, and a period of reflection, the Dublin and Belfast-bound MUMFORD & SONS have made their most brilliantly daring album yet in Delta. “It feels like this might be the most important thing we’ve ever done with our lives,” they tell Peter McGoran.

‘test day’, because obviously you date someone before you marry. The first song we did was ‘Slip Away’ and that immediately felt like we were on the same page. It was interesting for him because he’d just come off from doing the latest Horrors record, and I think sonically he was in the space where we wanted to be. We were just off of doing Johannesburg, and lyrically and melodically, we were inspired by what he was doing. The dream is, you partner with a producer who not only has the repertoire and the reputation, but who also wants to do something important. We all just landed at the right place at the same time. That was about a year ago. And then we’ve been in and out of the studio up until about a month ago.” Who takes a commanding role in the studio? “Paul’s pretty dynamic. He understands when to take a backseat and when to step in. But, as a band, we need leading sometimes. For us to be able to maintain an authentic democracy, we can’t self-elect someone between us to take charge. We have to appoint a project leader. So with Paul, sometimes he would sit back and say, ‘That’s a good idea, that’s a bad idea.’ Then other times he’d take a strong hand, saying, ‘Right lads, we need to put a shift in tonight, and you all need to stay.’ If it was Marcus or Winston turning to me and saying, ‘Right, Ben, you all need to stay tonight,’ I’d be like, ‘Are you kidding? You do it!’ It wouldn’t come off in the same way. “He’s great though, he just feels like one of the boys. This summer obviously we had the World Cup. So we had that on the screen in the corner of the room, and for a month we were there watching every game, while Paul was just there making this music that was emotionally important. There’s something about that that just works with Paul. It’s why he’s so great. He can be casual but he’s also emotionally in touch.” Was the screen on for the England Croatia match? “Yeah…” Lovett gives a wry laugh. “We went off on one and didn’t come back to the studio. We took the night off after that result.” Mumford & Sons first performed in Ireland in 2009, where they made a small, but significant, appearance in The Academy’s smaller second room. From there, they built their fanbase in the country. By the time they headlined the Heineken Stage at Oxegen the following summer, the tent was packed to the rafters. Ever since, their live performances both here and abroad have become increasingly grander affairs. Now, it’s just over 10 years since they first started. Are the band still as ambitious as they once were over a decade ago? “Yeah, it’s weird,” muses Ben. “This week, that’s felt like an important question. To tell the truth, I feel entirely unsatisfied by how far we’ve gone in our career so far. I feel like we’ve got so many more stories to tell, so much more that we can do on stage. So we needed a record that could set things up for us. But yeah, we just really want to do this. It wasn’t a case of calling it in – it’s

“PAUL’S PRETTY DYNAMIC. HE UNDERSTANDS WHEN TO TAKE A BACKSEAT AND WHEN TO STEP IN"

"I FEEL LIKE WE’VE GOT SO MANY MORE STORIES TO TELL, SO MUCH MORE THAT WE CAN DO ON STAGE." about as far from that as possible. “As far as ambition goes, I think it’s something we gear up in each other. We sort of set each other off and we all egg each other on. We have this healthy degree of competitiveness. So yeah, I honestly feel like, in some ways, this is us going back to day one. We’ve had an amazing journey and I’m very grateful, but I look back on it all and say, ‘What’s next?’” Getting to the album itself, Delta eschews the anthemic veneer of Wilder Mind for songs that pack a more emotional punch. There’s some clear radio-driven numbers in here, but the best songs come from a more introspective place. Considering that Mumford & Sons are now stadium and arena rockers. Will it be difficult to get this album fully across in massive venues? “Maybe. We’re just figuring that out now. We have some of those intimate songs in our repertoire already that we sing during our live show, and amazingly people do shut up during those songs! We have those quiet songs like ‘Cold Arms’ that have been in our live set forever and that’s always worked, so we’re hoping the same will apply for some of these songs. We want our sets to be as dynamic and full of contrasts as possible, to really accentuate the point of what we do. You take a song like ‘Wild Heart’, that’s about as intimate as you can get. That was just a mic in the middle of a room, and we just did one take of that song. It feels so intimate and it wears all its imperfections. It’s almost like a campfire song. But that’s as important to us as everything else.” When were most of these songs written? Was there an intense period of creativity? “We’ve just always been writing,” explains Lovett. “We have the great fortune of having four great writers in the band. So we draw from each other. We had songs from the Wilder Mind period that didn’t quite make that album and required more development. We had songs from Johannesburg. Honestly we’ve got a lot more. We’ve got another 30 songs kicking around.

“One of the reasons why we called the album Delta is because the river delta is the most fertile part of the river, and we feel like this is a really key period of our lives when it comes to creativity. Over the last few years, it was always a constantly fertile period.” Certain songs on the album, like lead single ‘Guiding Light’, took a long time to create. Is everyone in the band patient with each other when it comes to road blocks like that? “‘I think we are – that’s something we’ve practised. We learnt patience from the last album when we were working with The National’s Aaron Dessner. Aaron was like a coach for us in terms of patience. His experience with The National – a band that we loved so much – taught us the importance of patience. “We also learnt to really flesh out each other’s ideas. That’s the other thing. If you rush something, you don’t embrace the full extent of creativity. You know, someone might point to a glockenspiel in the corner of a studio and say, ‘Oh what about using that in this song?’ and your natural instinct is to roll your eyes. But we’ve learnt is to see out those ideas. That’s what we did with this album. We were like, ‘Okay, let’s take a couple of hours. Let’s explore these things’. We’d try stuff and a few hours later reflect on what we’d done. “That wouldn’t have happened five or more years ago. We were much younger, we were 18-20 when we started. We were impatient. We didn’t listen to each other. We got into a cycle of deciding that certain things just didn’t work.” The new working methods have resulted in a warm, melodious record, which is a late Album of the Year candidate, and guaranteed to go down a storm when the Mumford boys rock 'n' roll their way into town this month. Delta is out on November 16, via Gentlemen of the Road and Island Records. Mumford & Sons play the Dublin 3Arena (November 16) and Belfast SSE Arena (18) with special guest Maggie Rogers

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THE LIT C R OW D

JOHN BOYNE tackles literary ambition in his new novel, A Ladder To The Sky. He talks about his own early searches for a publishing deal, the pitfalls of the book world, and entering a fertile writing period. I N T E RV I E W PE T E R M c G ORA N P ORTRAIT KATH R IN BAUM B ACH

ow onto his 11th novel – his glittering CV also boasts extensive journalistic ouput and several YA books – John Boyne has finally reached a comfortable stage in his writing career. “I remember Kazuo Ishiguro saying that between the age of 40 and 60 is the best time in a writer’s life,” he smiles. “I’m 47 now and I do feel full of energy and enthusiasm. The last few books are all kind of different and, I hope, interesting. I feel like I’m in a good place creatively at the moment.” Boyne’s latest novel centres on an area that he’s all-toofamiliar with – that of the rocky road to publishing. A Ladder To The Sky follows a young Yorkshire man, Maurice Swift, whose charm, good looks and networking abilities allow him to attach himself to various prominent, and susceptible, authors in order to further his own career. His tactics gradually veer from emotionally exploitative to downright criminal as the novel progresses. Given that he’s published enough novels to know the ins and

outs, is this book reflective of the literary world as John knows it? Is there a dark side to literary ambition? “I’m not really sure,” he considers. “I know that I’ve certainly had a desperation to get published. I remember what it was like in my twenties, my ambition was always to get published before I was 30, and I published my first novel when I was 29. I can remember being 24, 25, 26 and being really desperate for that deal. “Now I wouldn’t have gone to the extremes that Maurice goes to to get it, but the longing for it was so important to me. It’s not unusual that people feel a great ambition – especially in an artistic career whether it be books, music or acting – and a strong need to express themselves in the world, and for their voices to be heard. If no one is listening then that can get very frustrating.” Has John met characters like Maurice, who would stop at nothing to get ahead? “Oh, yeah. I don’t think I’ve met any writers that have committed those types of crimes, but I’ve certainly seen

John Boyne A scene from the adaptation of Boyne's The Boy In The Striped Pyjamas

people use other writers to get ahead. The back-biting, the little rivalries and feuds, the writing of bad reviews just because you don’t like someone – I’ve seen that.” The novel also tackles the idea of ownership when it comes to an individual’s stories and memories. In the opening section, a famed German novelist recounts his tacit complicity during the Nazi era, which Maurice then uses for his own bestselling novel. It raises the question – if one person shares an experience with another, is it wrong to write about it? “That was something I was interested in because I’m not entirely sure what the answer is,” says John. “If two people share an experience, and it’s both of their experiences, who owns those stories? In the book, when Eric tells Morris his story, Eric hasn’t written about it and he’s telling the story aloud. Is he then giving it to the world? Is it his anymore? “The idea of ownership, I think, is until one person commits those words to a page, it’s a free-for-all. It’s why when you ask writers what they’re working on they’ll say, ‘Oh a little something, a book...’ or ‘Seeing where it’s going.’ They don’t tend to share too many details.” Is there a lot of back-biting in the Irish literary sphere? “I don’t think it’s specifically Irish,” replies John. “Most of the older Irish writers are wonderful, nice people. My experience is that the more successful a writer is, the nicer they are because they don’t have a chip on their shoulder and they’re secure in themselves. Maybe that’s the same in any industry, I don’t know. Perhaps once you’re established you’ve got nothing to prove to anybody.” On a related note, there’s an argument that Irish writers have

“IF TWO PEOPLE SHARE AN EXPERIENCE, AND IT’S BOTH OF THEIR EXPERIENCES, WHO OWNS THOSE STORIES?

a tendency to pull their punches when it comes to criticising other scribes. As a reviewer himself, does John have any thoughts on that? “That can be the case,” he agrees. “I review books for The Irish Times and for the most part I tend to avoid Irish novels, because you can’t win – if you genuinely like it and you give it a good review, you’re accused of back-slapping, and if you genuinely don’t like it and you give it a bad review, you’ll be run out of town. So it’s a lose-lose situation.” But in general it does seem like there’s a new wave of amazing Irish authors. “Yeah, there’s a new wave of very good writers. Although I think there’s a tendency to overpraise too quickly. You sort of need to have four or five novels before we start throwing the word ‘genius’ around. It becomes a bit self-fulfilling because Irish publications are always looking for new writers to capitalise on the success of those who were popular in the last five or six years. Often they’re just fine and we’re saying they’re the greatest thing since War And Peace. I think we need to be more circumspect in our lavish praise.” Having released his incredible tenth novel, The Heart’s Invisible Furies, just a year before A Ladder To The Sky, does John already have plans for his next tome? “I haven’t published a book for young readers in about five years and I’m going to have one in April. I’ve been working on that for the past year and I’ve just been doing the final bits of it. After that I’ve got two films and TV projects in production. Ridley Scott bought The Heart’s Invisible Furies for a 10-part TV show and Dominic Cook – who directed On Chesil Beach – is going to direct that. I also just sold the film rights to A Ladder In The Sky to the people who made the Patrick Melrose shows. Then I’ll be working on another adult book as well. So I’ve always got eyes on the next project!” A Ladder To The Sky is out now, via Penguin.

CRAZY I N LOV E Actress CONSTANCE WU talks about her role in mega-hit Crazy Rich Asians, a brilliantly fun movie that also marks a welcome shift in how ethnicity is treated on screen. I N T ERV I EW RO E M c DE RMOT T

Money walks: (l to r) Goh Peik Lin, Oliver T'sien & Constance Wu

he rom-com of the year, Crazy Rich Asians marks a shift in how race and ethnicity are treated in cinema. A funny romance that examines wealth and cultural differences, the film features an almost entirely Asian cast – and yet avoids clichés unfortunately synonymous with Asian actors onscreen. This isn’t a martial arts film, nor a historical drama with an inexplicably white hero. There isn’t a geisha in sight, nor does Scarlett Johansson play a leading role. This is merely a story about love and family, and, just as white people get to star in all kinds of stories without question, this tale happens to be about Asian characters. It’s this kind of representation – normalised, default, diverse – that actress Constance Wu has spent years fighting for. Her role in the television series about an Asian American family, Fresh Off The Boat, her campaigning for diversity onscreen, and her activism for gender equality in Hollywood have made her a voice that cannot be ignored. Last year, Lena Dunham wrote about Wu in Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential list, enthusing that “Constance knows that – as one of the only actors to portray

Asian-American womanhood on television – she is tasked with being more than just an actor. And she takes this second gig just as seriously.” So when Constance Wu read Kevin Kwan’s 2013 novel about a Chinese-American professor who discovers that her boyfriend Nick (Henry Golding) is the heir to a Singapore dynasty, she kept an ear out for development plans. But when Jon M. Chu signed up to direct, Wu’s filming schedule for Fresh Off The Boat meant she wouldn’t be available for filming. “I was disappointed that I couldn’t be a part of Crazy Rich Asians, but I was glad they were making it,” explains Wu – although resignation isn’t really an experience Wu ever embraces for long. “A short time later, I reconsidered, thinking that if I don’t express what this film means to me, I am going to regret it. So, I emailed Jon: ‘Hey, I understand that the timing doesn’t work out, but I want you to know that if you wait for me, I will put my entire heart into this project because it means so much to me.’ I didn’t think anything would come of it, but then they waited for me! After a few screen tests, I got the part of Rachel.”

“FROM THE BEGINNING, MY GOAL WAS TO BRING AS MUCH DEPTH AS POSSIBLE TO RACHEL”

Constance Wu

“I ALWAYS TRY TO COMPLEMENT THE PERSON I AM SHARING A SCENE WITH." Rachel is a smart, savvy woman; the only child to a single mother who was an immigrant to America. She’s bright and funny – but, according to her boyfriend’s mother, not suitable wife material for one of Asia’s most eligible heirs. “From the beginning, my goal was to bring as much depth as possible to Rachel,” says Wu. “I do that with every role, but it particularly matters to me with Asian-American characters. We didn’t want Rachel, or the film itself, to be just fun and cute. We had to do some real work to make sure it also had guts and emotion and heart. I spent a lot of time exploring those aspects of Rachel. I also appreciated how Rachel is the portal into the story and its world, for the audience. Her mom was a waitress and a single mother. “Everything that Rachel has was earned through hard work, and she’s remained humble and appreciative. That’s not to say there’s not a lot of fun and funny characters and moments in the film; there are! I’m the film’s ‘straight man’, but there are some terrific comic actors in Crazy Rich Asians.” One of these comic actors is Awkwafina, the rapper, comedian and actress who most recently appeared in Ocean’s 8. Awkwafina plays Rachel’s irreverent best friend, Peik Lin, and is an irrepressible force onscreen. Wu found that the best way to let Awkwafina’s comic genius shine was to just let it run wild. “I always try to complement the person I am sharing a scene with,” says Wu. “We don’t have to have the same energy, but we must complement each other. In many of our scenes together, Rachel was not the dominant character. I tried to let that affect me, and I think that’s how Awkwafina built the strength to become a dominant and hilarious character. It’s fun playing with other actors’ rhythms!”

On the other hand, Wu also had to act opposite the iconic Michelle Yeoh, known for her roles in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, Memoirs Of A Geisha and Tomorrow Never Dies. Yeoh plays Nick’s disapproving and judgemental mother Eleanor, and Wu didn’t find it too difficult to pretend to be intimidated by this formidable actress, who has been such a trailblazer for Asian actresses. “Michelle did not disappoint at all,” says Wu. “She embodies dignity, respect, grace and professionalism. I really enjoyed working with her. I compare working with Michelle to a tennis player being coached by Roger Federer. What Michelle offers impacts you in such a way that it really improves your work.” Wu has spoken at length about the impact she hopes the film will have on the representation of Asian characters onscreen, telling journalists she believes it will mark a turning point. “I think it will. I hope it will, at least. We’ve stopped asking if Hollywood is ready. I think when you look at younger people, Generation Z, they’re not asking for permission — they’re creating their own kind of Hollywood. It’s their lives and their stories. So when Gen Z comes up and there’s some kind of icon in that generation, and they create their own content without needing permission, that’s when I will be like, ‘Yeah guys, we made it, this is awesome! And it’s starting already.’” But ultimately, Wu also feels Crazy Rich Asians is just a damn fun time at the movies. “I think audiences will experience a wonderfully moving and fun story about love and families.”

A FOOD AWAKENING The latest dining news from resident foodie Stuart Clark BRIAN MORRISON

Belfast Christmas Market

DEEP & CRISPS & EVEN

THE McVERRY BEST

The Enterprise jury is somewhat split over the Christmas Tree Flavour Salted Crisps made from pine needle oil extract that are available this year from Iceland. Some of us found them too, well, tree-y while others took their sample packets off into the corner and refused to share. Not to be outdone in the festive nomnom-nom department, Aldi have a range of Mince Pie & Brandy Butter, Espresso and Gingerbread Latte ice creams, which won’t do much for your waistline but are seriously delicious.

StreetSmartIreland.Org has launched Dine Out, Help Out, a brilliant initiative, which allows you to buy a homeless person a hearty meal whilst visiting your favourite restaurant. L’Ecrivain, Klaw PoKé, Yamamori, The Winding Stair, Locks and Taste Of Rustic are a small handful of the kindhearted Dublin eateries who’ll accept a €2 donation on your behalf, which will be turned into tasty grub by the Street Smart crew in association with the Peter McVerry Trust. Peruse the full list of participating restaurants at streetsmartireland.org where dining establishments can also sign up to the initiative.

MISTLETOE & GLÜHWEIN Meanwhile, if hog roasts, Belgian choccies, baklava crepes, specialty cheeses and warming mugs of hot Glühwein are your thing, make a beeline for Belfast Christmas Market, which is running until December 22 at City Hall. Kids of all ages can visit Santa in his magical grotto and in the process support this year’s partner Pretty ‘n’ Pink breast cancer charity. The vintage carousel and helter skelter, which gives a bird’s eye view of the market, add to the fun. facebook.com/ BelfastXmasMark.

THE BEAST OF STEPHEN Among the many reasons to buy the Beastie Boys Book are the recipes cooked up on their behalf by the King of Korean American Street Food, Roy Choi. They don’t sound too promising, but the Paul’s Boutique-inspired Chili Chicken Gizzard Tacos are, ahem, offaly good. A perfect stocking-filler for all fans of the legendary Brooklyn rappers, it also includes a list of all their fave foodie

haunts – Blimpie, Cozy Soup & Burger, Leshko’s and Stromboli Pizza among them – that you should visit the next time you’re in New York.

Highlanes Gallery and FE McWilliam Gallery & Studio present

Crossing Lines 24 November 2018 – 26 January 2019

John Behan, Paul Bowan & Andre Stitt, Ian Breakwell, Stuart Brisley, Duncan Campbell, Tarik Chawdry, Jack Crabtree, Jack Cudworth, Anthony Davies, Rita Duffy, Joyce Edwards, Joy Gerrard, Sunil Gupta, Lawrence Abu Hamdan, Sonya Hanney & Adam Dade, Siobhan Hapaska, John Benton-Harris, Mike Hogg, Bob Jardine, Gavin Jantjes, Tam Joseph, Peter Kennard, John Kindness, Permindar Kaur, Terry Loane, Olga Magliocco, Alice Maher, Colin Middleton, Fionn McCann, Declan McGonagle, F.E. McWilliam, Brian O’Doherty, Jack Packenham, Tony Phillips, Susan Philipsz, Bridget Riley, Nigel Rolfe, Dermot Seymour, Victor Sloan, Bob and Roberta Smith, Maud Sulter, Joanne Tatham & Tom O’Sullivan, Mitra Tabrizan, Annie Wright Highlanes Gallery, Laurence Street, Drogheda, Co. Louth FE McWilliam Gallery & Studio, 200 Newry Road, Banbridge, Co. Down, BT32 3NB

ENTERPRISE

TRAVEL

RIO

WHERE THE CARNIVAL NEVER ENDS The home of bossa nova, exhilarating football, exotic beaches and dramatic mountains, Rio is truly a bucketlist destination. BY M I C HA E L K EA LY

he bustling city of Rio de Janeiro is located on the Atlantic coast in the south-east of Brazil. It’s the second largest city in Brazil behind São Paulo, and with around five million tourists heading annually, it’s the most visited city in the southern hemisphere. During the 2016 Olympics, over one million tourists arrived in the city. If you’re looking for a conventional tourist experience, with fancy restaurants and bars, the place for you is Ipanema or Leblon. The former is especially hallowed ground; ‘The Girl From Ipanema’ was conceived there. Rumour has it the two songwriters were at a bar next to Ipanema beach when they saw the most beautiful woman walk by before jotting the lyrics on a napkin. João Gilbert cut an English language version, which was later recorded by Amy Winehouse. Indeed, it’s now the second most re-recorded song in history behind The Beatles’ ‘Yesterday’. Elsewhere, Lapa is Rio’s playground – if you’re a party goer seeking nonstop revelry, it’s the place for you. You’re also just a stone’s throw from Escadaria Selaró, a mosaic stairway featured in the videos for Snoop Dogg’s ‘Beautiful’ and U2’s ‘Walk On.’ Do note, though, that while it has improved recently, Lapa is not the safest and is a long distance from the metro. For something less chaotic, without being swamped by tourists or the filthy rich you might find elsewhere, you might consider Flamengo or Largo do Machado. They’re not too far from the main tourist hotspots, and while the areas are welloff, you still get an authentic Rio experience. February’s Rio Carnaval is truly one of the world’s best parties. Officially five days in length, the celebrations realistically begin weeks in advance. Over two million

people celebrate across 500 street parties, marking the beginning of Lent. The highlight is the multi-coloured parade through the Sambródromo (R. Marquês de Sapucaí – Santo Cristo). Christ the Redeemer, the art-deco statue of Jesus Christ, is perched atop Corcovado Mountain overlooking Rio since 1931. The train meanders up a rack railway through the rainforest, and it’s a thrilling way to reach the summit. If you’ve time on your hands, hiking to the top takes two to three hours. The Maracanã Stadium, fresh from its €190 million makeover, is sacred ground among Brazilians. Its witnessed both highs (Pele’s 1000th goal and the Olympic Brazilian soccer team winning gold) and lows (losing the 1950 World Cup final to Uruguay in front of 200,000 fans). Elsewhere, many believe the best time to visit the Sugarloaf Mountain is around sunset, but truthfully any time is suitable to visit. The ride up is fantastic – an all-glass aerial tram whips you up to the top. Ipanema Beach, meanwhile, provides enchanting beachfronts attracting a wide mix of cariocas. You’ll find a different crowd – surfers, volleyballers, bohemians, celebrities – in each Posto (section). Rio has a large immigrant population, meaning it has lots of variety when it comes to eating out. Plage Café boasts an excellent brunch menu and an unbeatable location – from the patio, there’s a crystal clear view of Corcovado mountain. Elsewhere, Irish bar Shenanigans is great fun. On Friday and Saturday, it opens until 3am, offering cheap beers and large portions of food. Plus, it’s nice to find a pint of Guinness 9,200 kilometres from home. For a healthy eating experience, try Org Bistro, one of the busiest restaurants in the city, serving mostly vegetarian options. Stopping by a Rio Sucos is also a must –

ENTERPRISE

TRAVEL

V I S I T B E L FAS T

(from left): dazzling Sugarloaf Mountain, Christ the Redeemer and Ipanema Beach

you’ll find one almost every street corner and a cold juice is one of the best ways to beat the heat. How do I get there? Galeão is the main airport, and return journeys range anywhere from €600 to €1,100, depending on the time of year – though unfortunately there are no direct flights from Dublin. There are two types of taxi services to take you from the airport to the city centre; a radio taxi or regular yellow taxi, with the former being the more expensive option. With extensive bus and metro services, and a public bike hire scheme, Rio is a stress-free place to navigate. What’s more, its eight districts are easy to get around on foot. You can rent from any of the numerous bike shops between Copacabana and Ipanema for around €2.50 per hour, while Dubliners will be envious of the city’s quick and frequent bus service. It’s easy to locate the right route, and if you do step on the wrong bus, the majority travelling south from the city centre head to Copacabana, with fares of around €1. Both of Rio’s metro lines, meanwhile, are well air-conditioned, fast, and safe. A single ride ticket costs about 80c. One surprise is that Rio is not particularly renowned for its coffee. However, things are slowly changing. Three of the best coffee shops in the city are Sofa Café, Bastarda, and Café Secreto. The best time to visit is Rio’s peak season,

from December to March; it will be warm enough to hit the beaches, and the city’s charming samba beat is best with Carnaval just around the corner. However, be warned – with the warm weather and big festivals, prices are inflated. If flamboyant celebrations aren’t quite your cup of tea, you might want to visit during the cooler months. When it comes to safety, don’t believe everything you hear. Most areas in Rio de Janeiro are safe for tourists during the day. As with many other cities, night time is a little different – so if you want to head out at night, make sure to travel in a group. Where Dublin has the Phoenix Park, Rio has Tijuca National Park, a breathtaking urban rainforest offering waterfalls, hiking, and stunning views of the city’s iconic sights. The road that winds through the park is safe, but to avoid getting lost, it’s recommended to explore with a tour guide. Otherwise, many tourists have recently decided to do favela tours. For years these excursions were off-limits, but with public investment, they are now safe and provide visitors with a different perspective on the city. The colourful backdrop of the favelas have also attracted world-renowned artists. Michael Jackson famously filmed the music video for ‘They Don’t Care About Us’ in a Brazilian favela, which showed to the rest of the world that favelas consist of more than just poverty. In addition, French artist JR has raised awareness of marginalised communities by placing his portraits of residents across their homes. Thanks to JR, the millions of faceless cariocas living in shanty towns are now being seen – a marvellous feat.

From top: live music at the Harland & Wolff Drawing Offices; Titanic Belfast; and Snow Patrol.

Just a short hop from Dublin by train, Belfast is bursting with unmissable events, live music, festivals and attractions. The city resonates to a soundtrack of music – whether you prefer traditional, rock, pop, classical or soothing jazz, you are sure to find it whilst sipping a drink in one of the city’s bustling pubs. Upcoming highlights include the return of Northern Irish rock heroes Snow Patrol to SSE Arena Belfast on December 7. Elsewhere, you can choose from a line-up of vibrant festivals such as the Belfast International Arts Festival which will welcome over 120 theatre, dance, music, art and film events. Highlights include Isabella Rossellini’s show Link Link, the critically acclaimed Nina - A Story about Me and Nina Simone and a new live performance of The Lament for Art O’Leary. Uncover the story behind the famous ship at Titanic Belfast, voted the World’s Leading Tourist Attraction in 2016, combined with a delicious Sunday Afternoon Tea by the famous stairway. See upcoming events, offers and more at www. visitbelfast.com. Plan your trip now and welcome winter with a smile.

Business | Le Bon Crubeen

LE BON

VOYAGE Offering delicious takes on classic Irish dishes and mouthwatering seafood, LE BON CRUBEEN is one of Dublin's top restaurants.

ocated just off Dublin’s main thoroughfare of O’Connell Street, and not far from Dublin Port, Talbot Street was always a hub for people of the sea. Sailors, fresh off their journeys across the Irish Sea, and dockers congregated there, eating, drinking and sleeping in the area’s many hostelries. They would even pray at the Welsh language church, which is now a graffiti-covered internet cafe. Long the jewel of Talbot Street’s dining scene, Le Bon Crubeen has fully embraced the street’s maritime tradition. “We have recently introduced lobsters,” explains manager Mark Adams. They join a menu already packed full of fishy delights: Grilled Atlantic stone bass; Goatsbridge rainbow trout fillet; smoked haddock; cod; salmon chowder and octopus; and clams and chorizo – all of which will delight any pescetarian. Shellfish aficionados, meanwhile, will delight in the Achill Island oysters on the half-shell. Le Bon Crubeen opened almost ten years ago, and its focus has always been on providing a sophisticated take on classic Irish dishes. “The idea was to take the Irish, with crubeens, and mix it with the French – Le Bon – for a European twist,” says Adams. It’s an approach that has captured the hearts of Dublin’s dining public – among them, show-goers at the nearby Abbey and Gate theatres. Le Bon Crubeen do as pretheatre menu and at ¤24.95 for a three-course meal, it’s easy to see why it's a huge hit, Being able to serve wonderful food at such great value prices is something Adams is proud of. “Our prices work,” he says. “In southside restaurants, the prices can change and go up depending on how the economy’s doing. So, prices on the southside have been going up consistently. We haven’t increased prices at all, this side of the river, and I think that’s important. It’s vital that people can come in and don’t feel they’re being cheated.” Maintaining this commitment to fantastic food at great prices is what keeps their regulars coming back to the restaurant. The brilliant service also encourages loyalty. “We’ve got relaxed style,” says Adams. “It’s very friendly: we talk people through the menu. This is casual dining – we’re not fine dining. We’re smart casual.” That distinction is an important one – it’s quality food and quality service, but still in touch with the street-wise heritage of Talbot Street. Adams believes that the area has a brilliant future. “With the Luas now crossing over,” he notes, “it makes it much easier for people who were reluctant to come because it was maybe seen as an awkward spot. Getting here is not a big deal now.” There is more happening nearby as well. “We get the theatre crowd,” says Adams, “as well as people going to concerts in 3Arena. And also anything in Croke Park.” The restaurant is close to the IFSC and Convention Centre too. Staying in touch with local food producers is important to Le Bon Crubeen, as chef Luis Casero explains. “It’s all Irish," he says. "We try to get as much as we can locally, and we get fresh fish in every day. Also we have shellfish coming from Achill Island.” In a city that at times can seem enthralled by waves of culinary trends – burritos, donuts and whatever you’re having yourself – Le Bon Crubeen is an oasis of consistency and commitment to the classics. “We’re not overly fancy,” says Adams. “We run specials every day, but we’re certainly not trying to be a new fad or a new anything. If we were to do something funky and cool with dry ice and whatnot, I don’t think it would necessarily work.” Le Bon Crubeen: the good ship sails on...

Business | Le Bon Crubeen

"WE HAVEN’T INCREASED PRICES AT ALL, THIS SIDE OF THE RIVER…"

R AC I N G

C E RT

Iconic jockey RUBY WALSH discusses the joys of festive racing at Limerick and Leopardstown, and also reflects on winning the Grand National, meeting Queen Elizabeth, and being immortalised in song by Christy Moore.

IN T E RV I E W PAU L N OLA N

verybody’s off at Christmas and people need to be entertained,” notes one of Ireland’s top jockeys, Ruby Walsh, of the increasing popularity of Xmas racing. “More and more, racing is a big part of that. A lot of people go to Leopardstown and Limerick at Christmas who probably don’t go racing at any other time of the year. Also, they get a chance to catch up with people who they mightn’t see during the rest of the year. “The other part of it is that everybody’s been locked up during the festive period and they like to get out and do something. You can walk off the Christmas dinner and enjoy the racing. There is a great atmosphere and buzz during Christmas racing.” And excitingly for people who enjoy visiting the track over the Yuletide period, there’s another mouthwatering festive programme on offer this year, with both Leopardstown and Limerick racecourses providing action-packed line-ups from December 26-29. Presumably, though, with Ruby looking to keep his weight down, he isn’t as free to indulge in the turkey and ham as others. “A lot depends on what weights you’re doing,” replies Ruby. “My diet is pretty much the same all year round. I only eat twice a day anyway, and I don’t do any different because it’s Christmas. I don’t change the size of the portion I’m eating – I just eat the same. It’s always been my way of life. “Since I can remember, I’ve worked every Christmas. My dad was a trainer, so we worked at home on Christmas Day. I don’t remember that time of the year without racing. It’s never been a holiday period for me, it’s always been a busy working

period, but a very enjoyable one.” It was especially enjoyable a couple of years ago, when Ruby rode three winners in one day at Leopardstown. “I did,” nods Ruby. “I often got up and went to Dublin Airport and flew to Kempton on St. Stephen’s Day. I’d great success at the King George race there, which is the Christmas hurdle. But I did miss Leopardstown – the buzz there on Stephen’s Day is incredible. You have the Grade One Novice Chase, and you have the same thing at Limerick this year for the first time ever. I might even be going to Limerick on Stephen’s Day this year.” Although 2018 for Ruby was somewhat blighted by injury, he did manage to ride a couple of winners at Cheltenham. “I was just back from a broken leg,” he recalls. “But then I broke my leg again during the festival. So I was only racing for a day and a quarter, but I did manage to ride a couple of winners. The injuries meant I was hampered last season, so I’m looking forward to getting going properly again.” Notably, Ruby has the most winners of any jockey ever at Cheltenham, which is a remarkable achievement. “It’s been a lucky place for me,” he acknowledges. “It’s a big pinnacle of the season and it’s championship racing; everyone wants to win. When I started, I hoped I’d ride a winner there – I never foresaw the success I’ve had. But it’s a great place to go and a brilliant place to win.” What have been the other highlights of Ruby’s career to date? “Winning the Grand National on Papillon,” he responds. “Then winning it again on Hedgehunter. Also, riding horses like Kauto Star, Hurricane Fly, Big Buck’s and so on. I’ve had so many highlights. It’s been a career I couldn’t have dreamt of and I’ve enjoyed every minute of it.”

Ruby Walsh

PATRICK McCANN PATRICK McCANN

"IT’S BEEN A CAREER I COULDN’T HAVE DREAMT OF AND I’VE ENJOYED EVERY MINUTE OF IT." Winning the Grand National must be a particularly special feeling. “It was for me because my dad trained the horse,” reflects Ruby. “In 2000, I’d been out for four months before that with a broken leg. When I was growing up, Irish horses didn’t win the Grand National. Bobbyjo won it in 1999, but before that it was ’79 when an Irish horse last won the Grand National, and I wasn’t even born then. In my eyes, it didn’t happen. It was a privilege for me to even go to Aintree and ride in the race, but to actually win it, I never thought that would happen.” Ruby’s career has also coincided with another of Ireland’s greatest ever racing talents, AP McCoy, the Antrim rider who won the Champion Jockey title a record 20 consecutive times. Does Ruby view him as one of his peers? “I probably never saw him as a peer,” he considers. “I always saw him as someone I looked up to; he was a bit older than me. Obviously, when I was in my early twenties and we rode together, then he became a peer. We were very friendly, but I always saw him as the standard bearer, and you had to try and get to his level. He was an unbelievable ambassador for racing. I do miss riding against him – he was an amazing competitor.” Having seen documentaries on McCoy where he spent time with the likes of Alex Ferguson, I wonder who are the most high-profile figures Ruby has encountered throughout his career? “I suppose they don’t get any higher profile than the Queen of England,” he says. “I’ve been lucky enough to meet her twice, in Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle. When the Queen was coming to Ireland, there was a reception in Buckingham Palace before she came over. I was at that with Barry Geraghty and Paul Carberry. “I’d been at Windsor Castle prior to that with my

wife Gillian, and that event was to celebrate 200 years of Ascot racing. Going to those events is a privilege. Buildings like Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle are incredible architectural feats and amazing to look at.” Another noteworthy moment for Ruby was being immortalised in song by fellow Kildare man Christy Moore, who penned ‘The Ballad Of Ruby Walsh’ in his honour. “Christy called into Kill to my mum and dad’s house,” explains Ruby of the song’s creation. “My dad knew Christy through different things, probably through Liam O’Flynn more than anyone. Christy called in one day and said he was writing a song about the Galway races, and he wanted to know if he could use my name. I was a Christy Moore fan, so he didn’t really need to ask.” With Ruby celebrating his 40thbirthday next year, people have been speculating about his retirement, though he says he intends to continue in the saddle for a while yet. Given that his dad Ted is perhaps the most high-profile racing pundit in the country, is that a route Ruby would ever go down? “I find racing punditry quite easy,” says Ruby. “Racing has been my life, so I know what I’m talking about. But there has to be more to it than just punditry. It’s great, but Ireland’s a relatively small country, so there’s only so much punditry you can do.” As he looks ahead to the end of the year, Ruby is keen to emphasise the special nature of racing over the Christmas period. “People get so much enjoyment out of racing,” he enthuses. “Whether it’s Leopardstown or Limerick, it is a good place to go on Stephen’s Day. You couldn’t be in a better place.” The Christmas Racing Festivals at Leopardstown and Limerick take place from December 26-29.

I M P E R I A L

LEATHER From ’80s leather to gothic glamour and sequinned suits, this winter’s biggest trends demand drama and command attention. Roe McDermott talks you through the hottest styles of the upcoming season.

SUITED AND BOOTED It’s official: this is the year of the suit – but these aren’t your everyday office suits. No, these are statement suits for women who like to make an entrance. Forget the power suit. These are empowering suits, as women are embracing the boldness of taking a traditionally masculine outfit, and bringing some unapologetically glamorous femininity. These feminine influences were found all over the catwalks this season, as designers made small tweaks to traditional suit designs. Cropped ankle-length trousers, bold hues like canary yellow and plunging necklines were all spotted, elevating the pantsuit into something special. From Bottega Venetta’s cheerful sunny look to Marcel Ostertag glitter, the powerful woman with a sexy but stylish suit is back with a vengeance. And you know what makes a powersuit even more powerful? Sequins. No longer just for Christmas, sequins and bedazzlement are everywhere this autumn, and shiny metallic suits were all over the catwalks. It started with Victoria Beckham’s glamorous update of the traditional officewear shoe, as she showcased a colourful, sequinencrusted court shoe, and a fairytale-worthy sequinned block heeled-loafer. All of a sudden sequinned updates of suits were everywhere.

Fashion

Diamante Tassel Bag €19.99, £19.99 New Look Sequin Blazer Dress €39.99 / £30.99 New Look

Rainbow Stripe Sequin Crop Top, Coming soon New Look

Diagonal Stripe Sequin Skirt €50, £50 Next

Sequin Jumpsuit, Coming soon New Look

Tadashi Shoji’s rose gold version was a shimmering masterpiece grabbing quite a bit of attention, while Greta Constantine’s green sequin suit looked what the Wicked Witch of the West would wear to the Met Ball – and yes, that’s a damn good look. Meanwhile, a dark blue striped and sequinned, cinched-waist number caused quite a stir among the audience at Malan Breton. The disco ball look is even more intriguing on a mostly sequin suit as per Christian Cowan. Cool kids on the block, Asish, went for a slouchy, silver sequinned suit with oversized graphic tees for a grungier take, while Halpern sent a purple and blue hued jumpsuit down the catwalks for a modern take on the pantsuit. For the bold among you, going full-on matching sequin pieces is a showstopper – but you still have options. Teaming matching pieces together will create a striking sophisticated look perfect for nights out, while clashing sequinned prints is all the more daring. Pair solid sequins with sequin stripes, or even dare to combine some of the year’s biggest trends by putting a sequinned animal print jumper under a glittering blazer, or with a graphic print sequin skirt. And, of course, don’t forget the accessories – time to splash out on sequin bags to make sure your entire outfit shines like a diamond.

Black Sequin Jumpsuit €24.99, £24.99 New Look

Pink Detailed Sequin Bag €12.99, New Look

Black Long Sleeved Lace Underlay Top €54, £35 Miss Selfridgex

Fashion Headpiece €3, £3, Penney's

Myleene Klass Black Lace Jumpsuit, £92 Littlewoods.ie

GOTHIC GLAMOUR The gothic trend bewitches at any time of year, and with its mix of deep colours and dramatic fabrics, it transcends the spooky season and can easily carry you through the winter. While this winter sees the catwalks embracing some lighter fare, with florals, checks and patterns proving that they have some major staying power, leather, velvet and of course black lace are classic trends that are surprisingly easy to integrate into your everyday look. Lace really is the fabric of the season, as its combination of delicacy, femininity and romantic gothic traditions make it perfect to play with. Jumpsuits are dominating the catwalks this year, experimenting with ideas of glamour and traditional formalwear, and lace embellished jumpsuits are a modern way to play with

this feminine fabric. Look for dark jumpsuits with lace choker details or cut-outs to really capture some dark romanticism. For separates, high-neck lace tops evoke Victorian-era intrigue, while lace slips can be worn under a blazer for a subtly sexy ensemble. They can also be layered over t-shirts, and paired with classic combat boots or Doc Martens, to evoke the ’90s resurgence currently dominating the fashion world. While classic black lace tops can be worn with a pencil skirt or jeans during the day, pairing them with leather leggings or a high-waisted leather skirt will instantly inject an everyday piece with interest and intrigue. Or if you prefer to keep your gothic glamour more low-key, stick to accessories and make-up. Keep an eye out for velvet chokers, jewellery featuring gothic crosses, or even just ramp up the vampiness of your look with some blood-red lipstick.

Prom Dress In Lurex, £68 Little Mistress

Black Lace Panel V Neck Top €22.99, £22.99 New Look

Lace-up boot, coming soon Monsoon

38 3

Black velvet glam choker €7.99, £5.99 New Look

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E N T E R | TA I N J U S T

T H E

T I C K E T

MIGUEL RUIZ

The excellent latest effort from Irish star Gavin James leads the way in our round-up of the best new album releases.

LISA O'NEILL

G AV I N J A M E S Only Ticket Home (Good Soldier) The last few years have been something of a Cinderella story for Gavin James. Blessed with a spellbinding voice and a knack for stadium-sized hooks, the golden larynxed Dubliner’s march towards greatness has been unstoppable. Hell, even the cover of Only Ticket Home – showing the besuited Dub toting a briefcase – confirms that James means business. It’s a record inspired by life on the road and, if the tabloids are to be believed, a break-up (you can add “unwitting celebrity” to James’ long list of recent accomplishments). But success also seems to have brought some happiness into the singer’s world, as he’s largely left behind the balladry of debut Bitter Pill, in favour of a more buoyant sound. Opener ‘Start Again’ is an anthemic effort about new beginnings, which sets the tone perfectly. Filled with football-terrace friendly hooks, it’s a euphoric track that will surely become a festival favourite. Next up, ‘Glow’ finds Gav marrying his gorgeous falsetto to a wonderfully wonky, fuzzed-up guitar riff – it’s a great track – while ‘Always’ is a Coldplay-esque ballad, which his old school fans will adore. Some of the best moments on Only Ticket Home come when James harks back to his acoustic roots, with songs like ‘The Middle’ doffing the cap very smartly to folk maestros Lumineers and Of Monsters And Men. The title track, meanwhile, will be nothing short of spectacular live, thanks to its rousing finale and Mumford & Sons-flavoured “la-la-la” refrain. I’m not so sure yet about ‘Strangers’ or the super-romantic swooner ‘Hard To Do’, but overall the album is almost entirely free from second album jitters. A powerful statement of intent from a world star-in-the-making.

Heard A Long Gone Song (River Lea) For her fourth album, O’Neill has signed to River Lea, an imprint of Rough Trade, itself home to the equally resolute folkies Lankum. Recorded in Blackbox Studios in France’s Loire Valley, co-produced with former Frames guitarist David Odlum, the album sees O’Neill joined by Lankum’s Radie Peat, concertina wmaestro Cormac Begley, bouzouki player Libby McCrohan, and multi-instrumentalist Christophe Capewell. It all makes for a heady mixture of traditional tunes and original compositions. The record opens with an a capella take on ‘The Galway Shawl’, which manages to convey all the emotion of an entire season of the latest HBO drama into one song, thanks to the power of O’Neill’s vocal. As raw and rough as the Cavan clay from which it was formed, her delivery is so startling it’s like listening to Nina Simone or Billie Holiday, had they been born in Ballyjamesduff rather than North Carolina or Philly. The epic ‘Along The North Strand’ veers from love song to murder ballad and on to skittery jig over the course of eight minutes. The magniﬁcent ‘Violet Gibson’ is written from the point of view of the Irish woman who shot Mussolini in the face in 1926. She was subsequently released without charge, before being deported to Britain, where she spent the rest of her life in a mental institution: “I didn’t shoot to skim the skin of his snout/ Or his teeth or the lips on his mouth/ I simply saw a bad egg and I thought I’d take the bad egg out”. The stellar ‘Rock The Machine’ ﬁrst appeared on the Paul Noonan-curated Starboard Home project, where a host of singers were inspired to create music based on the theme of Dublin’s port, river and docklands. A beautiful, sad tale of a dock worker faced with the knowledge that new machinery is making his trade obsolete, it’s imbued with the socialist spirit of Luke Kelly, and feels like a song that will still be sung in a century’s time.

VILLAGERS The Art Of Pretending To Swim (Domino) It’s perhaps a little too easy to take Villagers front man Conor O’Brien for granted. When his big reveal, Becoming A Jackal (2010), dropped upon our heads, you could be excused for expecting this to be the mark against which all future offerings would be measured. To that end, you might forgive the Malahide man a misstep or two. On the evidence of The Art Of Pretending To Swim, however, there is no need. You will have to wait a little longer for his off-day. The opening lyrics to the hyperkinetic ‘Again’ conﬁrm that the beautiful introspection of 2015’s Darling Arithmetic endures as a modus, but the sparsity of that record gives way here to all the bells, whistles and seagulls O’Brien has in his extensive locker. The tempo ebbs and ﬂows. ‘A Trick Of The Light’ sounds like a Flight Of The Conchords track fused with the concept of an Enda Walsh play. The album has a deft touch of everything: from the curious (‘Fool’), to the ominous (‘Love Came With All That It Brings’) to the downright trippy (the sumptuous closer ‘Ada’). O’Brien wrote, produced, mixed and is the primary performer throughout the entire album. For a brief moment, you can’t help wondering how easily all of this comes to him? Every note of the album screams control. The craftsmanship, lyrics, and production are exemplary. It feels almost as if he is Will Hunting, burning the unsolvable theorems he has nonchalantly cracked before our eyes in the wastepaper basket, shouting “You know how easy this is for me?” But then, Conor is not the shouting type. Besides, that’d be a supremely perverse complaint, to argue that an artist is just too good at what he does. However, he is very, very good, and The Art Of Pretending To Swim is a treasure.

E N T E R | TA I N

R E A D

A L L

A B O U T

I T

A new outing for James Bond and a exploration of Irish attitudes towards the First World War are all on the agenda as we delve into the latest must-reads A HOUSE OF GHOSTS WC Ryan (Zaffre) Set during the winter of 1917, A House Of Ghosts fuses a classic gothic setting with a thrilling plot of wartime espionage. The story follows Kate and Donovan, as they arrive at Blackwater Abbey for a séance to contact Lord Highmount’s sons, both killed in World War 1. A Humphrey Bogart type and Irish expatriate, Donovan is indifferent to the fighting abroad. However, he finds himself increasingly drawn into the tension within the house, allowing Ryan to highlight Ireland’s interesting position during the global conflict. With Kate, the author makes a bold choice by establishing definitively that ghosts exist within this world, blessed (or cursed) as she is to see them. Ultimately, by placing a story of wartime subterfuge seamlessly within the ghost tale framework, Ryan gives the genre a welcome revamp.

OUR FRIENDS IN BERLIN Anthony Quinn (Jonathan Cape) London during the blitz. Amy Strallen’s Mayfair Marriage Bureau is a growing concern – business is being driven by fear more than anything else. Jack Hoste makes enquiries about Amy’s old friend, Marita, claiming to be a taxman, with a refund to pay out. Hoste saves Amy’s life during a German raid, but back at his flat she finds an iron cross – is Jack working for Berlin? Quinn paints a gripping picture of a city trying to carry on as normal under extreme circumstances. Paranoia is rife, but people still long for a personal connection. Hoste’s well-drawn character is hard to read, as any agent of espionage should be, and as we learn more about him – including an incident from his past that may well be his undoing – the action starts to get going. The plot recalls one of those black and white wartime movies – Mrs Miniver or Went The Day Well? – that used to turn up on the telly on a Sunday afternoon. You’ll find the pages turning faster as you approach the end.

PARIS ECHO Sebastian Faulks (Penguin) Hannah, an American postdoctoral researcher, and Tariq, a young Moroccan on the run from an overbearing father and boredom, arrive separately in Paris. Thanks to a frankly hard to credit series of events, they become ﬂatmates. Hannah is studying records of women during the Nazi occupation but is haunted by a lifechanging affair with a Russian playwright. Tariq, on the other hand, is driven to distraction by his own priapism – he searches for a memory of his late mother but is really more concerned with chasing women.

Hannah becomes obsessed by the wartime women until a shocking revelation opens her eyes. Tariq’s daily travels around the underbelly of the city offer lessons on the good and the bad sides of French history, helped at one point by the unlikely ﬁgure of the ghost of Victor Hugo. Faulks’ novel offers an interesting meditation on how the past bleeds into the present. It is rife with ghosts and memories, though it’s marred slightly by an ending that – like the characters’ initial encounter – is too neat to be wholly believable.

FO R E V E R A N D A DAY Anthony Horowitz (Jonathan Cape) “007 is dead.” So begins Anthony Horowitz’s second run at the secret agent, Forever And A Day, after 2015’s marvellously monikered Trigger Mortis. It’s the perfect opening sentence to draw you into the latest James Bond adventure. Surprisingly enough, Bond survives the first page of this prequel to Ian Fleming’s debut novel, Casino Royale. Here, he is promoted to the Double-O section and packed off to Marseille on his first mission. There are fast cars, punch- ups, a bad guy called Scipio and, of course, a luxury yacht. Original Fleming material is reworked to deliver the harder Bond of the early novels, rather than the more gadget-centric celluloid incarnation. As with his two Sherlock Holmes novels, Horowitz proves himself so adept at getting inside the iconic character, and Fleming’s writing style, that it’s difficult to see the join. Rip-roaringly recommended.

V I E W

T O

T H R I L L

Superheroes, metaphysical capers and a spooky tale with a difference – it's a time of plenty in the world of streaming. MARVEL

Doctor Strange

C L O U D AT L AS Based on David Mitchell’s novel, Cloud Atlas has been adapted and directed by Lana and Andy Wachowski and Tom Tykwer (Run Lola Run, Perfume). With six weaving storylines, settings and genres to navigate, directorial duties were divvied up. The Wachowskis helmed three threads of the film’s busy tapestry: a 19th century drama concerning abolitionist Jim Sturgess; a futuristic, Blade Runner-style adventure featuring Doona Bae as a rebellious subject in dystopian Korea; and a post-apocalyptic fantasy that sees goat herder Tom Hanks living on the Hawaiian islands. Tykwer, meanwhile, took care of the rest: a 20th century star-crossed romance about composer Ben Whishaw; a 1970s political thriller centred around tabloid journalist Halle Berry; and a modern day farce about Jim Broadbent’s misadventures in an old-folks’ home. These gorgeously presented stories are meant to unite in their exploration of universal themes – the human condition, the fragility of relationships and the unseen nature of causality. And there are moments of beauty in most of the stories, even if the hyperactive, timejumping editing and use of prosthetics that allow actors to play multiples roles prove distracting. Yet despite its flaws, Cloud Atlas remains an engagingly epic spectacle, thanks to the stunning visuals, blisteringly paced action, Matrix-style effects and sweeping score prove.

A GHOST STORY There’s always been something quaint about the image of ghosts as beings clad in bedsheets with eye-holes; reducing these cosmic entities, these manifestations of mortality, to images of soiled domesticity. This absurd blend of terror, cliché and comedy is what director David Lowery perfectly deploys in A Ghost Story. In this moving, philosophical and playful tale, Casey Affleck and Rooney Mara play C and M, who live in a modest Texas home. When C dies, he returns as a sheet-clad spectre, haunting the home. Now operating

A Ghost Story

outside of time, C experiences the past, present and future of the house he loved; an experience that shows him the cosmic (in)significance of emotion, connection and individual life. Lowery’s visuals beautifully evoke these themes, and his non-linear timeline creates a sense of meaning and consequence beyond the conventional chronology of a single arc or lifetime. The entire film invites the viewer to experience the film’s themes, while the cute quirkiness of our sheet-clad ghost imbues these metaphysical musings with levity and warmth. A simultaneously tragic and comic exploration of the people, places and loves that we hold on to – and when we need to let go.

DOCTOR STRANGE Doctor Strange hasn’t appeared onscreen since 1978, but his arc feels very familiar. A brilliant New York neurosurgeon turned superhero after a life-altering accident, the transformation of Strange (Benedict Cumberbatch) is typical Marvel fare – a Tony Stark-style reinvention. But as the character enters the realm of ancient mysticism and the occult, he and the film find powers both beautiful and unexpected. Travelling to Kathmandu, Strange seeks guidance from the mysterious, Jedilike Mordo (Chiwetel Ejiofor) and the Ancient One (Tilda Swinton). Showing a natural affinity for sorcery, he learns how to manipulate time, space and matter, accessing unimaginable realms. The visuals are genuinely dazzling, a masterclass of boundless imagination combined with perfect execution. Cityscapes bend and move with a kaleidoscopic grace that Christopher Nolan would kill for, while air and time ripple and move like liquid. It’s a pity that a film with such bold and courageous vision sticks to a safe formula, but it’ll still leave you breathless.

Noctural Animals

NOCTURNAL ANIMALS Tom Ford’s hyper-stylised filmmaking may alienate some viewers, but his approach isn’t just for show; it illustrates how his characters are concealing truths. His fascination with the performative comes to a fascinating climax in Nocturnal Animals. Amy Adams, her natural beauty covered in a cake-like layer of dramatic make-up, plays Susan, a successful gallery owner whose world is populated by shallow, pretentious people. Just as she begins to wonder how she lost her idealism and joy, Susan receives a manuscript from her ex-husband, Edward (Jake Gyllenhaal). His manuscript is the antithesis of his sweet and sensitive nature. A violent, disturbing tale of a family hunted and torn apart in a desert wasteland, the characters are clearly based on he and Susan. The novel terrifyingly comes to life before our eyes – a film within a film. Step into Ford’s heart-pounding world, and savour his exhilarating vision.

Dublin & Belfast

ATTRACTIONS

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

The National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin

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DUBLIN DUBLIN CASTLE Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: +353 1 6458813 dublincastle.ie Dating from the early 13th century, Dublin Castle was originally built on the site of a Viking Settlement as a defensive fortification, and for centuries served as the headquarters for British administration in Ireland. Following Ireland’s independence, Dublin castle was handed over to the new Irish government and continues to be a major government complex, in addition to a must-see tourist destination. Visitors can experience the castle’s rich history through the ornate bedrooms, dinning rooms, picture gallery and drawing rooms, with tours running daily. The complex is also home to the beautiful Chester Beatty Library, housing a collection of rare books.

EPIC – THE IRISH EMIGRATION MUSEUM The CHQ building, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 906 0861 epicchq.com One of the newest major attractions in Dublin, EPIC tells the unforgettable story of the 10 million Irish people

who left their homeland over the centuries – and how they influenced and shaped the world. The interactive galleries make this family-friendly experience an essential destination for everyone with an interest in Ireland’s people, culture and history. The museum also houses the Irish Family History Centre, with experts helping visitors uncover their Irish roots. Shortlisted for European Museum of the Year 2018 and included in the Top 5 Irish Museums on TripAdvisor, EPIC is open from 10am to 6.45pm daily (last entry 5pm).

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY TOURS Finglas Road, Glasnevin, Dublin 11 Tel: (01) 882 6500, glasnevinmuseum.ie The largest non-denominational cemetery in Ireland, Glasnevin is the resting place of some of the most famous figures in Irish history. Daniel O’Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Michael Collins and Eamonn DeValera are buried here, next to well-known artists such as Brendan Behan, Luke Kelly and Christy Brown. The hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery covers 124 acres of glorious parkland. Guided tours

of the cemetery and museum are available daily, with each guide passionate about telling the stories of Ireland’s complex and fascinating history. The tour of Glasnevin Cemetery, aptly named ‘Dead Interesting’, gives a fascinating view of the heritage in Ireland’s largest cemetery.

THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF IRELAND Merrion Square West, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661 5133 Nationalgallery.ie First opening its doors in 1864, the National Gallery of Ireland is located in the heart of Dublin city centre and holds the largest collection of European and Irish fine art, with 2,500 paintings and approximately 10,000 other works in different media including watercolours, drawings, prints and sculpture. Fully refurbished in 2017, the gallery reopened a huge selection of previously closed wings. With every major European school of painting represented in the gallery, highlights include The Meeting On The Turret Stairs by Frederic William Burton, in addition to a wing dedicated to JB Yeats.

NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM PLUS 22-25 Westmoreland Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 671 8373 waxmuseumplus.ie One year ago, the National Wax Museum Plus was opened in the iconic Lafayette building that divides Westmoreland Street and D’Olier Street - an appropriately central location for a museum full of figures central to Irish history. Visitors can explore the past via the museum’s own Augmented Reality app and watch Brendan Behan’s face spring to life and recite poetry, or a sketch of the Liffey morph into an animated pictorial history of Dublin. Kids will love how the app gamifies the museum, with treasures (and ghosts!) to find. Keep an eye out for their Night at the Museum events, where visitors are taken through the museum in masks and actors bring the exhibits to life.

Dublin & Belfast

ATTRACTIONS

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

Titanic Belfast

The Cathedral Church of St.Anne, Belfast

BELFAST BELFAST CATHEDRAL The Cathedral Church Of St. Anne, Donegall Street, Belfast Tel: +44 (0) 28 9032 8332 belfastcathedral.org One of Belfast’s most magnificent buildings, the Cathedral Church of St Anne is situated in the heart of the bustling Cathedral Quarter. Dedicated in 1904, there is much to explore within its walls, including mosaics by the Martin sisters, sculptures by Rosamond Praeger, the handcrafted Titanic Pall made in memory of the ship’s victims, and stunning stained glass windows. The Cathedral also has an amazing choir, and holds Choral Evensong every Monday to Friday during term-time, with Choral Services on Sundays at 11am and 3.30pm. Visitors and believers alike are welcome to step in and explore the building and stay to experience the spiritual impact of the Evensong.

BOTANIC GARDENS College Park, Botanic Avenue Tel: +44 28 9031 4762 Visitbelfast.com Occupying 28 acres, the Botanic Gardens are a must-see attraction for all lovers of the outdoors. This lush public space opened in 1828

as a private park run by the Royal Belfast Botanical Gardens and attracted thousands of visitors per day. Today the gardens, which feature two stunning Victorian conservatories – the Palm House and the Tropical Ravine – are fully open to the public. A number of notable concerts have also taken place amongst the gorgeous scenery from the likes of U2, The Kings of Leon and Snow Patrol.

BLACK TAXI TOURS Tel: +44 28 9064 2264 belfasttours.com A great way to soak up the history of Belfast is to take a tour in a classic black taxi. Out of the chaos of the Troubles came some of Belfast’s most recognisable landmarks: its murals. The 90-minute taxi ride will take you from east to west and north to south, taking in both sides of the community and how they depicted the conflict through amazingly detailed murals. All of the drivers have their own lived experience and are always willing to help visitors gain a deeper understanding of the city’s history.

TITANIC BELFAST 1 Olympic Way, Queen’s Road, Titanic Quarter, Belfast Tel: +44 (0) 28 9076 6386, titanicbelfast.com “It’s really quite phenomenal. It’s a magnificent, dramatic building, the biggest Titanic exhibit in the world,” enthuses Titanic film director James Cameron, and we’re not about to disagree with him. The Titanic Belfast is an unforgettable experience and since opening, thousands of visitors have thronged to the centre to learn about the history of the world’s most famous shipping disaster. Voted the World’s Leading Tourist Attraction at the 2016 World Travel Awards in the Maldives, an honour comparable to an Oscar in the world of tourism, Titanic Belfast is open to the public daily from 10am-5pm.

DINE AROUND DEANES 537 Lisburn Road, Belfast Tel: +44 28 9066 3108 michaeldeane.co.uk/dine-arounddeanes Dine Around Deanes is a unique opportunity to sample the delights of Belfast’s most famous restaurant by visiting each of its four locations throughout the city. Originally created

in 2013 to mark Belfast Food Week, the idea was so popular that it was extended into a regular event. Beginning at Deanes and Decano, in the heart of the city centre, you will be ferried around the city in Deanes’ own double decker bus, stopping at each location for a different course – including a stop at the Michelinstar Deanes at Howard Street – and learning about the city’s cuisine along the way. Book early as tickets get snapped up fast!

CAVE HILL COUNTRY PARK Antrim Road, Belfast visitbelfast.com Climbing to the top of Cavehill over unsurfaced paths, caves, moorlands and meadows, you’ll arrive at the most breathtaking vista at the top of McArt’s Fort; a sweeping panoramic view of Belfast, the Lough and (on a good day) the outline of Scotland and the Isle of Man can be seen from the hill’s pinnacle. Moreover, the surrounding country park features a variety of wildlife, several historical and archaeological sites and the famous Belfast Castle.

Dublin & Belfast

RESTAURANTS

DINING OUT

MIGUEL RUIZ

Marrakesh By Mindo, Dublin

BELFAST

DUBLIN THE WINDING STAIR

MARRAKESH BY MINDO

THE MUDDLERS CLUB,

40 Lower Ormond Quay, North City, Dublin 1 Tel: +353 1 872 7320 winding-stair.com For a wholesome Irish restaurant overlooking the River Liffey, complete with a downstairs bookshop, look no further than the Winding Stair. Dishes showcase the finest Irish ingredients by focusing on old-fashioned home cooking and no-fuss recipes. Named after Yeats’ poem, the Winding Stair combines fine cuisine with literary delights, with two floors connected by an 18th century staircase. After treating yourself to a delicious brunch, lunch or dinner, be sure to wander down and peruse the vast selection of books on offer.

121 Capel Street, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 878 8988 marrakesh.ie Capel Street’s standing as the food capital of Dublin is further enhanced by the arrival of this superb Moroccan restaurant, which has private karaoke rooms for those who really want to make a night of it. The food is as moreish as the décor is Moorish, with classic dishes like Merguez Meshwi, Kabda and Lissan brought to the table with a theatrical flourish. The tagines are all melt in the mouth, and the pastilles are just the right blend of sweet and savoury. Wine and cocktails are a big thing here, with the all night €26.90 Three-Course Menu tremendous value.

1 Warehouse Lane. Belfast. Tel: 028 9031 3199 themuddlersclubbelfast.com Named after the 200-year-old secret society that used to gather there, the Muddlers Club is tucked away in the historic backstreets of Cathedral Corner. What’s no secret is the success of the venue, having won the award for Best Restaurant in Ulster at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2018. The Michelin-rated venue has an open kitchen providing a sense of theatre to the dining experience, allowing customers to watch as local ingredients are transformed into delicious dishes. It also stocks an enticing selection of wines, beers and spirits to complement the mouthwatering food.

FADE STREET SOCIAL 6 Fade Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 604 0066, fadestreetsocial.com Fade Street Social is one of Dublin’s hippest eateries – and for good reason. It’s a meeting place, restaurant, tapas bar and cocktail winter garden, with each constituent part sitting effortlessly alongside the others; each attracts its own crowd and project its own vibe. The restaurant offers homegrown produce assembled into simple dishes packed with flavour. The gastro bar, meanwhile, allows you to delve into the sharing menu, choosing bite-size, tapas-style taste bursts.

The Muddlers Club, Belfast

DOG TRACK Unit 1, 11B Ormeau Avenue, Belfast Tel: (028) 9031 9454 dogtrackbelfast.co.uk Owners Michael O’Connor and Michael Fletcher believe that “food should make you happy” and their atmospheric city-centre restaurant duly delivers with a delicious array of small plate, western tapas dishes like Spiced Sticky Pork Belly, Tynedale Goat Pie with Sweet Potato Mash and what Team Enterprise reckon to be the best sliders in town! Watch as their talented team of chefs prepare the 60 menu items, which

are served on different coloured plates according to price, then help yourself to the ones you want as they travel round the track! The accompanying Drinks Menu was put together with the food in mind, and includes a fine selection of wines available by the glass, carafe and bottle. It’s a great value, fun way to eat with signature cocktails like Beetroot & Chilli Sour and the Belfast Southside adding to the sense of occasion.

DEANES LOVE FISH 28-40 Howard Street, Belfast Tel: (028) 9033 1134 michaeldeane.co.uk A 100-seater addition to the Deanes family, Love Fish offers one of the best lunch deals in town with a range of £6.50 Lunch Specials – the Prawn Open Sandwich with Fries gets the Enterprise vote! The nighttime fare is just as exciting with the Crispy Fillet of Seabass with Garlic Butter, Fries & Salad a delicately flavoured treat. With burgers, perfectly cooked 8oz Sirloins, and some thoroughly decadent desserts this is a great place for delicious food without the fuss. The room is bright and modern, with lots of polished wood and chalked up Daily Specials.

Dublin & Belfast

BARS

Sale of the century: Titanic Belfast

Kelly's Cellars, Belfast

The Thomas House, Dublin

BELFAST

DUBLIN THOMAS HOUSE 86 Thomas Street, Dublin 8 Tel: (085) 203 9047 facebook.com/thomashousedublin If it's big name artists in a unique and unusual setting that you like, Thomas House is the place for you. A favourite haunt of the Queen Of Rockabilly herself, Imelda May, it regularly hosts acts that specialise in everything from punk to old-fashioned R&B. Independently owned and run by two local promoters and DJs, it carries a fantastic range of pints and has DJs every night of the week.

IDLEWILD 14 Fade St, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 253 0593 Idlewilddublin.com Inspired by the affair between JFK and Marilyn Monroe, this cosy bar in Dublin’s creative quarter has a lot to offer, whether you’re looking for a date spot or a low-key night out. The plush green velvet sofas in the back of the bar make a stunning centrepiece, and the bar also boasts a beautiful interior and friendly staff. Stocking a great range of wines, beers, spirits and cocktails in a laidback setting, IdleWild's intimate vibe provides a true throwback to exquisite '50s style.

THE BLACK SHEEP 61 Capel Street, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 873 0013 galwaybaybrewery.com/blacksheep Affectionately known as ‘The People’s

ALBERT BRIDGE

LIQUID REFRESHMENT

Pub’, The Black Sheep is conveniently located at the corner of Capel Street and Parnell Street. Featuring an eyepopping range of craft beers and spirits, you’ll be able to go back time and again and try something new on each occasion. The Black Sheep also serves food from noon up until ten in the evening, with succulent steaks and mouth-watering wings among the highlights. Great as an after-work spot, or as a pre/post-cinema location, you’ll find yourself at home here on both weekdays and weekends.

PIPER’S CORNER 105-108 Marlborough St, North City, Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 873 3503 piperscorner.ie With renowned uilleann piper Sean Potts (whose father was a founding member of The Chieftains) and Dublin publican Eamonn Briody at the helm, Pipers Corner has already become a Mecca for Irish traditional music and Gaelic games fans in Dublin, despite having only opened in July 2017. Located across the road from the Abbey Theatre, Pipers Corner has trad sessions round the clock, and any given night could see the likes of Sean McKeon, Liam O’Connor, Kevin Glackin and more performing, with Damien Dempsey and members of Lankum also known to pop their heads in for a session on certain nights….

KELLY’S CELLARS

MURIEL’S CAFÉ BAR

30-32 Bank Street, Belfast Tel: +44 28 9024 6058 Kellyscellars.com Famed as Belfast’s oldest traditional Irish pub, Kelly’s Cellars is an intimate venue full of character. The best place to grab a pint without any fuss or pretension, Kelly’s oozes rustic charm. Grab a seat by the bar or in one of the cosy corners and prepare for a night of laughs, stories and entertainment. With a rich history of Irish traditional music, if you’re wise enough to go on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday evening during one of their trad sessions, you’ll be treated to the enchanting sounds of superb musicians from all over the country.

12-14 Church Lane, Belfast Tel: +44 (28) 9033 2445 facebook.com/muriels.cafebar Belfast’s newest gin bar reflects the changing character of the city centre. Mixing its classy setting with a decadent interior (lingerie hangs brazenly from the roof), Muriel’s Café Bar is part of a number of emerging bars which have made Belfast a hub for nightlife and tourism. Known for their excellent gin selection, they offer some of the best cocktails you’re likely to find anywhere, the Bee’s Knees in particular - featuring Hendrick’s gin and a slab of honey to garnish - is the perfect concoction for long summer evenings.

THE CROWN LIQUOR SALOON 46 Great Victoria Street, Belfast Tel: +44 (0) 28 9024 3187 nicholsonpubs.co.uk All tourists travelling into Belfast, take note: when leaving the Europe Bus Centre, keep your eyes firmly fixed in front of you, and you’ll gaze upon the essential tourist spot to start your journey. Boasting stunning Victorian architecture, The Crown Bar is one of Belfast’s best-known bars. Thanks to its cosy snug, great pints and brilliant atmosphere, you can’t go wrong here.

Dublin & Belfast

SHOPPING

BEAUTIFUL BUYS PHOTO: ROSS

KATHRIN BAUMBACH

Rhinestones, Dublin

DUBLIN INDUSTRY & CO DUBLIN 41 A/B Drury St, Dublin 2 (01) 613 9111 industryandco.com Located just off Grafton Street, Industry has been a welcome addition to Dublin’s design scene since 2010, when it started out as a small boutique. Since then it has expanded to become one of the capital's best-known lifestyle stores, housing both Irish and international products. The award-winning Industry & Co stock everything from plants to cutlery and furniture. As you peruse, be sure to stop by the cafe for some healthy, freshly made soups, salads and cakes.

No Alibis, Belfast

BELFAST jewellery and handbags.

COVET Powerscourt Centre, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 9313 covet.ie Described as a store that provides ‘luxurious lends’, Covet will make you feel as if you’re on your way to the Oscars. With dresses to rent from Alexander McQueen, Oscar de la Renta, Badgley Mischka and Rachel Gilbert, they will also style your hair and make-up for a big night out. You can even borrow a pair of Christian Louboutins to match your outfit.

& OTHER STORIES

RHINESTONES JEWELLERY AND GIFTS

26-27 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 247 0100 stories.com A relatively new addition to Ireland’s fashion scene, And Other Stories opened its Grafton Street store in 2016, and has already built up an adoring fanbase of fashionistas. A part of the Swedish H&M family along with COS, Monki, Weekday and Cheap Monday, And Other Stories features simple, welltailored pieces that’ll make you look instantly stylish. They stock classics like jeans, t-shirts and jumpers, as well as on-trend pieces and a great selection of beauty products,

18 St Andrew’s St, Dublin, D02 T382 Tel : (01) 6790759 A blink and you’ll miss it treasure trove of quirky one off pieces and a mecca for in the know fashion insiders, Rhinestones is the destination to add that final ‘je ne sais quoi’ element to any outfit. It deals in early Victorian brooches, Edwardian lockets and Venetian glass beads as well as jawdroppingly sumptuous gemstones beautifully displayed in antique glass cabinets. Prices range from €20 to €2000, so you’ll be sure to find something suited to all pockets.

PEEL FASHION 107 Bloomfield Avenue Tel: 028 9045 2665 peel.fashion.com Spread across three floors, Peel is a mini-department clothing store, stocking collections from fashion capitals such as London, Milan, Paris and LA. Covering everything including edgy, sophisticated, fun and affordable, this is a one-stop shop for fashionistas. In addition to clothes, they have a wide range of accessories and jewellery to complement any style. With an in-house seamstress available on Tuesday and Friday, and end-ofline designer merchandise with up to 80% off, Peel is the place to go whether you have an occasion coming up, or simply want to spice up your wardrobe.

ST GEORGES MARKET 12-20 East Bridge Street, Belfast Tel: +44 (0) 28 9024 6609 If it’s atmosphere you’re after, look no further than this indoor market known for its selection of beautifully crafted goods and mouthwatering street food stalls. St. Georges is particularly brought to life by a live band strumming in the awe-inspiring surrounds and it’s local independent retailers. The last surviving Victorian covered market is open for

only three days a week, Friday - Sunday so be sure to plan accordingly.

NO ALIBIS 83 Botanic Avenue, Belfast Tel: +44 (0) 28 9031 9601 noalibis.com Specialising in crime stories, No Alibis - which opened in 1997 - was immortalised in Colin Bateman’s thriller Mystery Man, with the nameless protagonist bearing a striking resemblance to the store’s owner David Torrans. Without doubt one of the most unique bookshops you’ll find in Ireland, No Alibis also hosts regular jazz nights and readings.

Dublin & Belfast

A C C O M M O D AT I O N

STAYING OVER

The Marker, Dublin

DUBLIN THE INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Simmonscourt road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 Tel: +353 1 665-4000 intercontinentaldublin.ie Minutes away from Dublin’s city centre, the award winning Intercontinental hotel sits on two acres of landscaped gardens in the heart of Ballsbridge. This five-star hotel is just steps from the historic RDS and central to locations such as the Aviva Stadium and the 3Arena. Formerly owned by the Four Seasons, the InterContinental has retained all of the style and elegance of its predecessor, offering travellers a tranquil retreat. With afternoon tea, bottomless brunch, a whiskey bar and the iconic Seasons Restaurant, the Intercontinental boasts a fine array of dinning options sure to cater for any palette.

BROOKS HOTEL 62 Drury St, Dublin 2 (01) 670 4000 brookshotel.ie Brooks Hotel is a distinctive, luxury four-star boutique hotel in Dublin’s Creative Quarter, a short walk from Grafton Street. Enjoy modern Irish and international cuisine at Francesca’s restaurant, a favourite of the critics, where Head Chef Pat McLarnon serves dishes created from locally sourced ingredients, including fresh herbs from the Brook’s very own ‘urban herb garden’. Elsewhere, you can also visit Jasmine Bar at Brooks, an award-winning Great Whiskey Bar of the World with over 100 different varieties on offer. Bedrooms are

The King Studio Room at Hilton, Belfast

BELFAST well appointed and spacious with quirky designs. The hotel also boasts an oak-panelled Residents Lounge, a private cinema room and a fitness suite.

THE WESTBURY HOTEL Balfe Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 1122 doylecollection.com Dublin hotels don’t get more central than The Westbury, an opulent five-star hotel overlooking Grafton Street’s buzzing shopping hub. Among its renowned attractions are the grand piano on The Terrace, a popular first-floor meeting place for afternoon tea, the €1 million worth of Irish art acquisitions on display in The Gallery Lounge, the high-art cuisine in the Wilde restaurant and the 1930s-style glamour of The Sidecar.

THE MARKER Grand Canal Square, Docklands, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 687 5100 themarkerhoteldublin.com Rising up from the rich urban heartland of the Dublin Docklands, the Marker slots seamlessly into one of the most vibrant cultural hubs of the city. The sleek architecture combines elements of the Irish landscape with an urban aesthetic, creating an experience that is distinctly Irish and truly inimitable. For those seeking extra pampering, the wellness spa boasts a stunning 23 metre infinity pool, with a wealth of beauty treatments on offer, including lava shell massages.

HILTON BELFAST 4 Lanyon Place, Belfast, BT1 3LP Tel: +442890 277000 hilton.co.uk/Belfast The Hilton Belfast is perfectly situated for everything from sightseeing to nightlife and sampling local culture. If you plan to do some Christmas shopping, the Hilton is next to St. George’s Market, five minutes from Victoria Square, as well as the annual Christmas Market at City Hall. Be sure to head over to the Cathedral Quarter for live music, arts, great local food and pubs or visit the famous Waterfront Hall. The hotel boasts an exceptional range of suites including the top floor Executive Rooms and Lounge where drinks and refreshments are served daily from 6-8pm against spectacular city views. Meanwhile, the Sonoma Restaurant offers pre-theatre dining and the famous Hilton Breakfast, overlooking the renowned Samson & Goliath cranes at Harland & Wolff and the River Lagan, while in Cables Bar you can enjoy a selection of light meals and cocktails. The Hilton is currently running a Book The Breakfast On Us promotion which you can sign up for by phone using Special offer/promotion code PR20BB, phone +442890277000, or on their website at hilton.co.uk/ belfast

MALONE LODGE HOTEL & APARTMENTS 60 Eglantine Avenue, Malone Rd Tel: +44 28 9038 8000 malonelodgehotelbelfast.com Nestled in the quiet suburbs of

The Merchant Hotel- Belfast

the Queen’s Quarter of South Belfast, Malone Lodge Hotel & Apartments occupies a stylish red-bricked Victorian townhouse overlooking the lush Eglantine Avenue. For a central location look no further, the hotel and suites are mere minutes from the city centre and 2 miles from the multipurpose Belfast Waterfront. Offering all the comforts of home within classic, stylized interiors Malone lodge boasts delicious cuisine at the Knife and Fork restaurant and effortless elegance in Macklin’s bar.

RAMADA ENCORE 20 Talbot Street, Belfast BT1 2LD, UK Tel: (028) 9026 1800 encorebelfast.co.uk For luxury comfort in a great location, The Ramada Encore is a perfect choice to experience the best of Belfast. With 165 ensuite bedrooms including double, twin and family rooms, it is ideal for business travel as well as short city breaks. Situated in St. Anne’s Square adjacent to The MAC Belfast’s arts centre, The Encore Belfast is also close to many other local attractions including the must see visitor attraction - the Titanic Belfast, St. Anne’s Cathedral and City Hall. The hotel is also home to the beating heart of the Cathedral Quarter, The SQ Bar & Grill. With live entertainment, an inviting outside terrace seating area overlooking the square, and a tempting cocktail list created by the in house mixologist, the Ramada Encore is sure to give you a night to remember.

M Y

C I T Y | D U B L I N What do you like best about Dublin? It’s such a convenient city – you can be anywhere within 10-15 minutes on foot or by taxi. There’s always a new bar or restaurant opening somewhere, and I find the shopping is great too. Also, there are some great parks, and the city is steeped in history and culture – the GPO and Kilmainham Gaol are a couple of the best spots to visit. What’s the most iconic thing about modern Dublin? I’m a huge movie fan, so the Light House cinema and Smithfield Square stand out for me. The square is used for some great outdoor cultural events, particularly during the summer. The Light House has to be one of the best cinemas in the entire country, it’s so modern and slick. I’ve never had a bad experience there. What’s your favourite place to eat and why? I’m a breakfast kind of gal, so the Pepper Pot in Powerscourt Centre is one of my favourite spots – I love the creamy scrambled eggs. I’m also a big fan of the brunch in The Fumbally in Dublin 8. Good food, good vibe, good people. Dublin’s best bar? I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again – Walsh’s in Stoneybatter is my favourite bar. It reminds me of a bar you’d find down the country; it’s really cosy, authentic and the bartenders take pride in what they do. They remember your name, your order and it’s always service with a smile. Where do you shop for clothes? Folkster in Temple bar is a favourite of mine, they’ve got something for everyone. I’m big Topshop fan too; I’m often traipsing the St. Stephen’s Green store picking up bits. Zara is always reliable and affordable as well. Favourite Dublin building? The Light House Cinema – it’s a really peaceful place full of energy. I love going in there even just for a coffee.

BLATHNAID TREACY TV & RADIO PRESENTER

Your Dublin music? My boyfriend and I frequent Arthur’s and Mission Bar quite a bit. We head to the Sugar Club a lot too – they always have great musicians and bands on. Elsewhere, Walsh’s has great folk and bluegrass, and the Cobblestone always has great trad. In terms of acts, I’m into Loah, Royal Yellow, Super Silly and the Charlie Moon Organisation – who perform every Sunday night in the Mission Bar – to name just a few. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? It’s got to be Stoneybatter – I’ve been living there for years and it’s home to me now. I have so many friends in the area and there’s always someone to grab a pint with. What’s your most loved spot in Dublin to catch some me-time? Phoenix Park for sure – we don’t have much of a garden, so it’s lovely to lash on the headphones and stroll up there. Your favourite place to bring friends / family when they visit Dublin? Token near Smithfield; it’s a bar-cade which I’m sure lots of people have paid a visit to. It’s something different to do – the food and drinks are great, and the arcade games are awesome too.

se Cinema The Light Hou

Your Dublin hero? Lorraine Barry, who’s a judge on Dancing With The Stars. She’s one of the most inspiring women I’ve ever met – fierce, kind, thoughtful and talented.

P hoenix 50

Park

DUBLIN CITY CENTRE

Midweek Breaks

(Sunday to Thursday inclusive) With NIR Travel Staying at the Harcourt Hotel Fashionable City Centre Hotel close to Grafton St and St. Stephen’s Green.

Your break includes:

Return rail from any NIR Station. 2 nights Bed & Breakfast. 3 Course Early Bird Dinner on one evening in the elegant 1900 (Nineteen Hundred) Restaurant.

November/December £129 CERTAIN EXCLUSION DATE BUT YOU WILL BE ADVISED AT THE TIME OF BOOKING.

For reservations contact NIR Travel call 028 90 242420 NIR Travel 10-12 Glengall St. Belfast. www.harcourthotel.ie

WHY WAIT?

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0345 939 0001

crossborder@materprivate.ie

or visit

www.materprivate.ie

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02/11/2018 10:52