LOOK INSIDE: Slow Wine Guide USA 2022

Page 1


A YEAR IN THE LIFE OF THE VINEYARDS AND WINES OF THE USA

2022

ORO Editions Publishers of Architecture, Art, and Design Gordon Goff: Publisher www.oroeditions.com – info@oroeditions.com Published by ORO Editions Copyright © 2022 Slow Food Promozione SB. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including electronic, mechanical, photocopying or microfilming, recording, or otherwise (except that copying permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law and except by reviewers for the public press) without written permission from the publisher. You must not circulate this book in any other binding or cover and you must impose this same condition on any acquirer. Authors: Giancarlo Gariglio, Editor-in-chief Deborah Parker Wong, Coordinating Editor California Pam Strayer, Senior Editor Contributing editors: Gwendoyln Alley, Peg Champion, Catherine Fallis, MS, Charles Kelly, Laurie Love, Sally Ohlin, Karla Ravandi, Leslie Rosa, Amber Turpin Oregon Contributing editors: L.M. Archer, Sophia McDonald Bennett, Catherine Fallis, MS, Ellen Landis, Neal D. Hulkower, Ph.D. Washington Contributing editor: Nancy Crosier New York Contributing editors: Robin Shreeves, Kathleen Wilcox Editorial Assistants: Jonathan Gebser, Maddalena Schiavone, Stella Ricciardelli Book Design: Francesco Perona Cover Design: Alice Iuri and Mauro de Toffol / theWorldofDot Project Coordinator: Alejandro Guzman-Avila Managing Editor: Jake Anderson 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition ISBN: 978-1-954081-76-5 Color Separations and Printing: ORO Group Ltd. – Printed in China. ORO Editions makes a continuous effort to minimize the overall carbon footprint of its publications. As part of this goal, ORO Editions, in association with Global ReLeaf, arranges to plant trees to replace those used in the manufacturing of the paper produced for its books. Global ReLeaf is an international campaign run by American Forests, one of the world’s oldest nonprofit conservation organizations. Global ReLeaf is American Forests’ education and action program that helps individuals, organizations, agencies, and corporations improve the local and global environment by planting and caring for trees.


INDEX 7 8 9 10 12 15

Foreword Preface Introduction How to read the guide Slow Food Manifesto for good, clean and fair wine TOP Wines

171 169 173 171

Index of wineries Index of places

CALIFORNIA

19 23

OREGON

115 119

NEW YORK

155

WASHINGTON

167 161

MAP WA OR NY

CA



PREFACE Last year’s edition of the Slow Wine Guide USA marked an important step for our annual publication, with its promotion from simple appendix of the translated Italian edition to an independent publication in its own right. Now, just one year later, we can mark off yet another important milestone, namely US publisher, Goff Books, embracing our project and deciding to publish it under their name. This is a great acknowledgement for a venture born as an experiment and grown over the years thanks to the support of our readers, the dedication and hard work of so many contributors and the enthusiasm of the wine producers who have opened their doors to us. Slow Wine is in fact not your ordinary wine guide, especially considering its presence in the US market that has basically invented scores when judging wine. We have decided to go down a different road, privileging description, narrative and a visit to the winery. Of course, we also evaluate the wines from a pure sensory perspective, otherwise we wouldn’t be wine critics. Without that in-depth knowledge of the wines and wineries, our reviews and accolades would have far less value to consumers. After the 2021 emergency edition, realized for obvious reasons through virtual interviews with the producers, this year we’ve gone back to making winery visits – a great way to celebrate the return of something at least a little closer to normality. This return to a face-to-face approach means one important thing: the Snail, our most significant accolade awarded to a winery, is back. In response to the positive feedback of last year’s interviews made available online for everyone to view, this time around we made a series of brief videos taken directly at the winery, thus offering a unique insight of the people behind the wines, their philosophy and approach in the vineyards and the cellar. And speaking about news and outstanding times, there’s more. These last two years have allowed us to conceive, plan and prepare what is going to be the biggest and most ambitious project by Slow Food in the world of wine thus far: the Slow Wine Coalition, a new international thematic network uniting wine lovers and professionals under one umbrella. By sharing of a series of core values as described in the Slow Wine Manifesto for Good, Clean and Fair Wine, we’ve dedicated much of our lives, through our activity as critics, to educate people and steer them towards wines that are respectful of the environment, the landscape and the people who produce. them. Action has never been so urgent and now is the time to radically rethink viticulture and winemaking practices. Wine is in fact the most glamourous among agricultural products; as the subject of books and documentaries, movies and novels, it’s a trailblazer with the opportunity and responsibility to set new standards and ignite a transition away from the conventional productivist paradigm that has caused so much harm to our planet. Looking back at the eleven previous editions of the Slow Wine Guide, this voyage is a recurring topic. Now, with the Slow Wine Coalition we’re embarking on a new adventure that will require us to take on a pirate-like mentality. Because only the anarchic, rebellious and determined nature of the opportunist will help us reshape a world of wine in desperate need of new standards. We hope and we’re confident that many of you will get onboard and join us in this new and exciting journey. Giancarlo Gariglio Editor-in-chief

7


INTRODUCTION Over the past year as National Editor of the Slow Wine Guide USA, I’ve seen the daily conversations we’re having about wine expand far beyond the immediate concern for the health of our planet to address a broader view of the practices outlined in the Slow Wine Manifesto. Both I and Senior Editor Pam Strayer have lent our voices to the subjects of diversity within the industry, domestic and global migrant labor, and the profitability of organic farming among many others. In 2021 we joined forces with Slow Food USA both as the verifying body for their coveted Snail Award for wineries and as their “voice” of wine for the national and international press which has enabled us to address industry issues that rarely see the light of day. As advocates for the wineries that grace the pages of this guide and for the consumers who rely on its contents when making purchase decisions, we strive to be inclusive while upholding the baseline criterion - the choice not to farm with synthetic herbicides - that qualifies wineries to be listed. The understanding of and adaptation by winegrowers of lowintervention practices in the vineyard is enabling more and more wineries to forgo chemical weeding. Being back in the field again making in-person winery visits has invigorated our national team of coordinators which includes for the first time L.M. Archer and Ellen Landis both of whom contribute for Oregon; Nancy Crosier who has grown our presence in Washington; Robin Shreeves who teamed up with Kathleen Wilcox in New York State, and the astoundingly prolific Gwendolyn Alley along with Karla Ravandi who are both covering wineries in California for the first time. I’m immensely proud of our returning field coordinators whose efforts have propelled the guide forward during the most challenging of times. Senior editor Pamela Strayer shines in her instrumental role as subject matter expert in viticulture and her rigorous field work continues to evolve the guide forward. As national editor, it is an honor and a privilege to collaborate with each and every writer who makes the Slow Wine Guide possible. The Slow Wine Guide USA is produced in collaboration with the Italian Slow Wine Guide editorial team led by Jonathan Gebser who, in addition to his role in the Italian guide, expertly shepherds the production of our manuscript which will be published this year by Goff Books. We’ve got a tough act to follow as the 2021 guide which I refer to as our “pandemic miracle” continues to achieve milestones by making the Self-Publishing News’ top ten list of best-sellers in 2021. Join me in celebrating the wineries whose slow wines are farmed conscientiously and bring immense enjoyment to our lives. Deborah Parker Wong National Editor, US

8


HOW TO READ THE GUIDE THE WINERY B

BOTTLE

Symbol awarded to wineries whose bottles represented excellent average quality at our tastings.

N

COIN

Symbol awarded to wineries whose bottles are good value for money.

C SNAIL

Symbol awarded to a winery that we recognize for the way it interprets Slow Food values (sensory perceptions, territory, environment, identity) and also offers good value for money. The QR code at the bottom of some of the reviews is linked to the video-interviews documenting our virtual visits of the wineries. .

Prices

The prices indicated represent the suggested retail price as listed by the wineries.

THE WINES TOP WINE

T SLOW WINE SLOW WINE

The finest bottles from a sensory point of view. Top Wines that, beyond their outstanding sensory quality, demonstrate terroir-related values such as history and identity, as well as offering good value for money. The attribution of this accolade implies the absence of any chemical herbicides in the vineyard. The Slow Wine accolade also considers value for money, taking into account the time and place of production.

EVERYDAY WINE Top Wines retailing up to 30 $. EVERYDAY WINE

Wine type

1 White wine 2 Red wine 3 Rosé wine 4 Sparkling wine 5 Dessert wine 6 Orange wine

Type of ageing

a Stainless steel b Concrete c Small barrels d Large casks e Amphora

Aabbreviations

ac

Acres of land, owned or leased, managed and cultivated directly by the winery

cs Number of 12-bottle cases produced

The data regarding viticultural and enological practices were provided by the producers. 9


SLOW WINE COALITION PER IL VINO BUONO PULITO E C O E COALITION SLOW WINE N PER IL VINO BUONO PULITO E A I C EE COALITION SLOW WINE O C N W O PER IL VINO E I N BUONO PULITO AA

liano, di approfondire le varie tematiche lì enunciate.

vino buono, pulito e giusto nasce dall’esperienza maturata da S toria, in cui il vino ha avuto un ruolo centrale e importantis vino buono, pulitoee tecnici. giusto nasce dall’esperienza maturata sperti, vignaioli Attraverso la produzione e il da conS toria, in cui il vino ha avutol’obiettivo un ruolo di centrale e importantis do il Manifesto ci poniamo incidere sul futuro sperti, vignaioli e tecnici. Attraverso la produzione e il da conS oppo legata pulito all’usoe giusto della chimica e ha stravolto la biodivers vino buono, nasce dall’esperienza maturata do il Manifesto cimonocultura. poniamo di incidere sul futuro o imponendo Daruolo qualche anno eleimportantis avanguard toria, in cui il la vino ha avutol’obiettivo un centrale oppo legata all’uso della chimica e hala la biodivers no capito che si edeve cambiare rotta. Il stravolto Manifesto punta sperti, vignaioli tecnici. Attraverso produzione e il alla con vino buono, pulito e giusto nasce dall’esperienza maturata da S o imponendo la monocultura. Da qualche anno le avanguard el vino un potente strumento di riscatto culturale delle cam do il Manifesto ci poniamo l’obiettivo di incidere sul futuro toria, in cui ilcustodi vino hadel avuto unrotta. ruolo e la importantis no capito che si deve cambiare Manifesto punta to sono sia territorio, promotori dibiodivers unalla sis oppo legata all’uso della chimica e sia haIlcentrale stravolto sperti, vignaioli e tecnici. Attraverso la produzione e il con el vino un potente strumento di riscatto culturale delle cam diversità e giustizia sociale. Solo così il patto comunitario vino buono, pulito e giusto nasce dall’esperienza da S o imponendo la monocultura. 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Da qualche anno le avanguard tito legati alla iliera enologica avrà un ruolo di crescita sociale esis ca del Manifesto: trattare il vino come qualcosa che vada oltre do il Manifesto ci poniamo l’obiettivo incidere sul futuro sono delavuto territorio, sia di promotori di un toria, in sia cui ilcustodi vino ha un ruolo centrale e importantis no capitoe che si deve cambiare rotta. Il tutti. Manifesto punta mportanza strategica per il futuro di noi Slow Food sialla èp oppo all’uso della chimica e ha la biodivers diversità giustizia sociale. Solo così patto comunitario sperti,legata vignaioli e tecnici. Attraverso la ilstravolto produzione e il con el vino potente strumento di riscatto culturale delle cam del Manifesto: trattare il vino acome qualcosa che le oltre laun propria voce rispetto questi argomenti, evada riunire attca o imponendo la Da qualche anno avanguard tiergia legati alla iliera enologica un ruolo crescita sociale e do il Manifesto cimonocultura. poniamoavrà l’obiettivo didiincidere sul futuro to sono sia custodi del sia promotori di unsialla sis mportanza strategica per ilterritorio, futuroe didesiderosa noi tutti. Slow Food è p crescere una attiva di punta operare fo no capito che sicomunità deve cambiare Manifesto oppo legata all’uso della chimicarotta. e haIl stravolto la biodivers diversità e giustizia sociale. Solo così il patto comunitario ergia lapresenti propria voce rispetto questi argomenti, riunire att ntine sulle pagine di Slow Wine ,che in evada questo mo el vino un potente strumento di culturale cam del Manifesto: trattare il vino acome qualcosa oltre a so imponendo la monocultura. Dariscatto qualche anno le delle avanguar ti legati alla iliera enologica avrà un ruolo di crescita sociale e c crescere una comunità attiva e desiderosa di operare fo za con quanto dichiarato nel Manifesto, che ha una storia to sono sia custodi del territorio, sia promotori di un sis mportanza strategica il futurorotta. di noi Slow punta Food sialla èp no capito che si deveper cambiare Il tutti. Manifesto ntine presenti sulle pagine di Slow Wine , in questo mo obiettivo sarà quello di unire sempre di più le strade, e fa diversità e giustizia sociale. Solo così il patto comunitario ergia propria vocestrumento rispetto a di questi argomenti, att el vinolaun potente riscatto culturalee riunire delle cam del Manifesto: trattare il vino come qualcosa che vada oltre za con quanto dichiarato nel Manifesto, che ha una storia iende recensite siaenologica in linea attiva con il un decalogo trovate qui a ian tito legati iliera avrà di crescita sociale ca crescere una comunità e ruolo desiderosa di operare fo sonoalla sia custodi del territorio, sia promotori di un esis mportanza strategica per il futuro di noidi tutti. 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SLOW FOOD MANIFESTO SLOW FOOD MANIFESTO SLOW SLOW FOOD FOOD MANIFESTO MANIFESTO SLOW FOOD MANIFESTO FOR GOOD,CLEAN AND FAIR WINE FOR GOOD,CLEAN AND FAIR WINE SLOW SLOW FOOD FOODMANIFESTO MANIFESTO FOR GOOD,CLEAN ANDFAIR FAIRWINE FOR FOR GOOD,CLEAN GOOD,CLEAN AND AND FAIR WINE SLOW FOOD FOODMANIFESTO MANIFESTO FOR FORSLOW GOOD,CLEAN GOOD,CLEAN AND ANDFAIR FAIRWINE WINE FOOD SLOW FOODMANIFESTO MANIFESTO FOR FORSLOW GOOD,CLEAN GOOD,CLEAN AND ANDFAIR FAIRWINE WINE SLOW FOOD FOODMANIFESTO MANIFESTO FOR GOOD,CLEAN AND FORSLOW GOOD,CLEAN ANDFAIR FAIRWINE WINE FOR FORGOOD,CLEAN GOOD,CLEANAND ANDFAIR FAIRWINE WINE

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Wineries must grow a minimum 70% of the grapes used in the themselves. Wineries must minimum 70% of the grapes used in the production ofgrow theira wine Wineries must grow a minimum 70% ofwidespread the grapes used in the Exceptions are given regions in70% which sourcing is themselves. production ofgrow their wine Wineries Wineries must must grow a minimum afor minimum 70% ofof the the grapes grapes used used in in the the themselves. production of their wine Exceptions are given for regions in which widespread sourcing is common, e.g. Madeira, Napa Valley, the south of Spain, etc. themselves. themselves. production production of of their their wine wine Exceptions are given for regions inwhich which widespread sourcing is common, e.g. Madeira, Napa Valley, the south of Spain, etc. is is Exceptions Exceptions are are given given forfor regions regions in in which widespread widespread sourcing sourcing common, e.g. Madeira, Napa Valley, the south ofSpain, Spain, etc. Wineries Wineries must must grow grow ause minimum aNapa minimum 70% 70% of of the the grapes used used in in the Wineries may not chemically synthesized fertilizers ,the common, common, e.g. e.g. Madeira, Madeira, Napa Valley, Valley, the the south south of grapes of Spain, etc. etc. themselves. themselves. production production of their their wine wine herbicides, orof anti-botrytis fungicides. Wineries may not use chemically synthesized fertilizers, Wineries may not use chemically synthesized fertilizers , is Exceptions Exceptions are are given given for for regions regions in in which which widespread widespread sourcing sourcing herbicides, or anti-botrytis fungicides. Wineries Wineries may may not not use use chemically chemically synthesized synthesized fertilizers fertilizers , in ,is the Wineries Wineries must must grow grow a minimum aNapa minimum 70% 70% of of the the grapes grapes used used in the herbicides, or anti-botrytis fungicides. common, common, e.g. e.g. Madeira, Madeira, Napa Valley, Valley, the the south south of of Spain, Spain, etc. etc. A conscious and sustainable approach to the use of herbicides, herbicides, orof or anti-botrytis anti-botrytis fungicides. fungicides. themselves. themselves. production production of their their wine wine A conscious and sustainable winemaking must beof applied. approach to the use environmental resources in Exceptions Exceptions are are given given for for regions regions in in which which widespread widespread sourcing is is A conscious and sustainable approach to the fertilizers use ofsourcing Wineries Wineries may may not not use use chemically chemically synthesized synthesized fertilizers , only Dependence on irrigation systems must be limited and should in winemaking must be applied. environmental resources A conscious A conscious and and sustainable sustainable approach approach to to the the use use of of Wineries must grow a minimum 70% of the grapes used in, the Wineries must grow a minimum 70% of the grapes used in the common, common, e.g. e.g. Madeira, Madeira, Napa Napa Valley, Valley, the the south south of of Spain, Spain, etc. etc. in winemaking must be applied. environmental resources herbicides, herbicides, or or anti-botrytis fungicides. aim to avoid critical water-stress conditions. Dependence on irrigation systems must be limited and should only infungicides. in winemaking winemaking bebe applied. applied. environmental environmental resources resources themselves. themselves. production ofanti-botrytis their wine production of their wine Dependence on irrigation systems must must bemust limited and should only aim to avoid critical water-stress conditions. Dependence Dependence on on irrigation irrigation systems systems must must be be limited limited and and should should only Exceptions Exceptions are are given given for for regions regions in which in which widespread widespread sourcing sourcing Wineries Wineries may may not not use use chemically chemically synthesized synthesized fertilizers fertilizers , isonly , is aim to avoid critical water-stress conditions. A to conscious and sustainable A Wineries conscious and sustainable approach approach to to the the use use of of Winery buildings, should they need to be constructed, must Wineries must must grow grow awater-stress minimum aNapa minimum 70% 70% of the of the grapes grapes used used in the inrespect the aim aim to avoid avoid critical critical water-stress conditions. conditions. common, common, e.g. e.g. Madeira, Madeira, Napa Valley, Valley, the the south south of Spain, of Spain, etc. etc. herbicides, herbicides, or or anti-botrytis anti-botrytis fungicides. fungicides. inthemselves. in winemaking winemaking must bebe applied. applied. environmental environmental resources resources their environmental surroundings. 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CALIFORNIA

CALIFORNIA OTHER CALIFORNIA

NORTH COAST

SIERRA FOOTHILLS

CENTRAL COAST

INLAND VALLEYS

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

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25 Á Deux Têtes 27 ADAMVS 27 Aeris Wines 29 AmByth Estate 29 Ampelos Cellars 33 Beckmen Vineyards 37 Brendel 43 Chateau Davell 47 DaVero Farms & Winery 51 Eisele Vineyard 52 Elizabeth Rose 52 Elkfield Wines 57 Frog’s Leap 57 Front Porch Farm 58 Ghost Block 59 Grgich Hills Estate 62 Handley Cellars 63 Hanzell Vineyards 63 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 68 Inman Family Wines 72 Larkmead Vineyards 72 Lasseter Family Winery 80 Matthiasson 81 Medlock Ames 83 Neal Family Vineyards 84 Nicholson Ranch 85 Oakville Ranch 85 Oakville Winery 88 Ovis 90 Porter Creek Vineyards 91 Portola Vineyards 91 Pott Wines 92 Preston Farm & Winery 94 Quintessa 94 Quivira Vineyards 95 Radio-Coteau 95 RAEN 97 Ramble Wines 97 Ridge Vineyards 98 Robert Sinskey Vineyards 98 Rocca Family Vineyards 104 Snowden Vineyards 105 Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery 106 Stony Hill Vineyard 107 Storybook Mountain Vineyards 113 Volker Eisele Family Estate 115 Winery Sixteen 600

26 A Tribute to Grace 28 Amapola Creek Vineyards & Winery 25 âmevive 30 Anthill Farms Winery 31 Ashes and Diamonds 33 Beauregard Vineyards 34 Bedrock Wine Co. 35 Big Basin Vineyards 35 Birichino 37 Bonterra Organic Vineyards 38 Burgess Cellars 39 Calera 46 Crosby Roamann 48 Domaine de la Côte 49 Donum Estate 50 Edio Vineyards at Delfino Farms 60 Haarmeyer Wine Cellars 66 Hyde de Villaine - HdV 67 Idlewild 69 Jolie-Laide Wines 69 TheJoyFantastic|HolusBolus 73 Lester Estate Wines 74 Lindquist Family Wines 75 Littorai Wines 76 Los Angeles River Wine Co. 77 Madson Wines 78 MAHA | Villa Creek 78 Mâitre de Chai 79 Martha Stoumen Wines 80 Massican 82 Mora Estate 82 Mount Eden Vineyards 83 Narrow Gate Vineyards 84 Newton Vineyard 86 The Ojai Vineyard 87 Once & Future Wine 87 Opus One 89 Pax Wines 90 Piedrasassi 99 Sandhi Wines 101 Scholium Project 101 Scribe 103 Silver Mountain Vineyards 107 Storrs Winery & Vineyards 108 Tablas Creek Vineyard 108 Tatomer 110 Tres Sabores 111 Trinafour 111 Turley Wine Cellars 112 Verdad Wine Cellars 114 Wenzlau Vineyard 115 Windy Oaks 116 Wrath Wines 117 ZD Wines

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Coin N 26 Acquiesce Winery 28 Alfaro Family Vineyard & Winery 31 Azolla 32 Bargetto Winery 32 BARRA of Mendocino 39 Camins 2 Dreams 40 Carol Shelton Wines 41 CARY Q WINES 41 Castoro Cellars 60 Guthrie Family Wines 62 Hammerling Wine 71 Land of Saints Wine Company 75 Lo-Fi Wines 76 Los Pilares 77 Madroña 79 Margins Wine 81 Mia Bea Wines 92 Precedent Wine 93 Prima Materia Vineyard and Winery 93 Purity Wine 96 Raft Wines 99 Ruth Lewandowski Wine 100 Sante Arcangeli Family Wines 102 Sean Walker McBride 112 Two Shepherds 114 Wild Hog Vineyard 117 Yamakiri Wines

C A L I F O RN I A


SANTA MARIA ÂMEVIVE

SONOMA

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Á DEUX TÊTES

2705 Aviation Way – tel. (209) 872-2420 www.amevivewine.com – alice@amevivewine.com

589 1st Street – tel. (707) 721-1805 www.winerysixteen600.com – info@winerysixteen600.com

PEOPLE - Alice Anderson graduated from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and soon found herself in New Zealand absorbing biodynamics at Rippon Winery. Through a friend in New Zealand, she landed a two-year stint in the Rhône at Domaine Pierre Gaillard. She then made her way back to the States at Tyler in Sta Rita Hills. Meanwhile, the lease for the historic Ibarra-Young Vineyard in Los Olivos had been relinquished. She assumed the lease in 2020.

C

VINEYARDS - Anderson sources 40% of her output, all gamay, from Presqu’il Vineyard and Shokrian Vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley which features sandy loam soils. The other 60% of her grapes come from the Ibarra-Young Vineyard, Anderson’s estate. It is farmed regeneratively with biodynamic protocols and animals roaming the vineyards at intervals. Currently marsanne, graciano and a field blend are estate produced.

WINES - The name amevive means “lively souls,” and the wines are unfined and unfiltred. T Los Olivos Marsanne 2020 EVERYDAY WINE 1 78 cs; $ 30 - a c - Shows aromas of acacia, yellow apple and baked goods with a racy peach and green apple palate. Santa Barbara County Gamay Noir 2020 2 80 cs; $ 30 - c - Has light nutmeg woven into strawberry and raspberry aromas and a palate that adds red apple and an earthy seasoning. Los Olivos Ibarra Young Vineyard Syrah 2020 2 75 cs; $ 34 - c - Spiced cherry and meaty aromas emanate from this wine, while fresh, ripe dark cherry and cranberry fruit are on the palate shot with a mineral streak.

acres 10 - cases 800 Fertilizers compost, organic-mineral Plant protection organic, sulfur, synthetic pesticides Weed control mechanical Yeasts spontaneous fermentation Grapes purchase 60% Certification none C A L IFO RNIA

For cultivating a climate friendly varietal, Grenache, and taking its vinification to new heights–the team’s forward looking approach and its impeccable wines .

PEOPLE - In 2018, Sonoma’s organic viticulture rockstar Phil Coturri launched Á Deux Têtes, a collaboration with Rhône superstar winemaker Philippe Cambie. Coturri is known as a vineyard manager growing grapes for 100 point wines. Robert Parker named Cambie Oenologist of the Year in 2010 and more than 15 of his wines have been rated 100 points. VINEYARDS - Coturri could be said to be the Johnny Appleseed of Grenache. The Miller site, the source for the brand’s rosé, was planted for rosé based on Cambie’s direct guidance. At Oakville Ranch, in Napa’s Vaca Mountains, the soils are red and volcanic. At Rossi Ranch in Sonoma Valley, an historic site, the soils are light volcanic ash and obsidian shards. The two latter sites provide a comparison for starpower Grenache wines grown in different terroirs. WINES - Southern Rhone native Isabel Gassier is the hands on winemaker working with Cambie’s protocols. Napa Valley Miller Vineyard Rosé 2019 3 100 cs; $ 49 - a - Aromatic, textured and intensely flavorful, with peach and citrus notes. A delicate, distinctive licorice note–essential for Grenache rosé, Cambie says– persists from the nose through to the finish. Shows rosé’s potential to achieve great heights. Oakville Oakville Ranch Grenache 2018 2 n/a; $ 88 c - A blend with 7 percent Mourvèdre, it offers deep cherry notes coupled with red fruits, exhibiting impressive concentration and depth. Sonoma Valley Rossi Ranch Grenache 2018 2 n/a; $ 88 - c - More feminine, compared to the Oakville, this impresses with its floral nose before developing into cherry and blackberry notes and a long finish.

acres 0 - cases 1,000 Fertilizers compost, cover crops Plant protection organic, sulfur Weed control mechanical Yeasts spontaneous fermentation Grapes purchase 100% Certification some of the vineyards are certified organic 25


LOS ALAMOS A TRIBUTE TO GRACE

ACAMPO

B

$

ACQUIESCE WINERY

490 Bell Street, #5 – tel. (805) 633-0598 www.gracewinecompany.com angela@gracewinecompany.com

22353 N Tretheway Road – tel. (209) 333-6102 www.whitewinery.com – sue@av-wine.com

PEOPLE - ‘Granache is my normal mode, I just take a few sidesteps now and then’, so says Angela Osborne who has made many single vineyard grenaches since 2007 and is a master of the grape in California. Grace was Angela’s treasured grandmother and there is a through line from the name and the virtue that is Angela’s watchword in winemaking and life writ large. She has a home base and tasting room in Los Alamos in the Santa Maria Valley. Jason is her husband and partner. There is a brood of three.

PEOPLE - To acquiesce is to agree, go along; corporate executive Rodney Tipton was listening to k.d.lang‘s song “Acquiesce” when he knew he and wife Sue would own a winery with that name. After raising three sons and living abroad, they moved to Portland, OR where Sue owned a successful mail-order business, and she developed an appreciation for wine pairing. They found their vineyard in Lodi; when they decided to make wine, Sue became a winemaker, and “surrender to the grapes.”

VINEYARDS - Osborne typically sources from all over the state and this year has gone to lengths to make sure that 6 grenaches from three sites were all picked on the same day, October 24th 2020, recommended by the biodynamic calendar. High elevation Shake Ridge Ranch is farmed by the legendary Ann Kramer. Thompson vineyard is certified organic, nearby in the Santa Maria Valley and Spear, also certified, is also close, in the eastern Sta Rita Hills.

VINEYARDS - In a region known for red wine, Lodi’s Acquiesce grows obscure white Rhone varietals. After tasting a white wine blend from Chateau Beaucastel, they decided to plant Grenache Blanc in 2008. Pleased with results, they added Roussanne, Viognier and Picpoul Blanc with cuttings from Tablas Creek Winery in Paso Robles which partners with Beaucastel where these varietals originated.

WINES - Substantial acidity is expressed in all her wines as is ripeness. Differences in perfume, structure and earthiness distinguish them.

WINES - Grapes are hand picked, whole cluster pressed, and fermented with yeast indigenous to the Rhone. Sue started Slow Food Lodi; making balanced wine that pairs well with food matters to her. Lovely tastings by reservation include pairings with small bites featuring homemade crackers.

T Amador County Shake Ridge Ranch Vineyard Grenache 2019 2 61 cs; $ 75 - c - Marries whole cluster fermentation with 1/3 new oak for a broad-shouldered version, with incense aromas, a fine tannic structure and dry strawberry and sous bois flavors. T Alisos Canyon Thompson Vineyard Grenache Blanc 2020 1 200 cs; $ 33 - a - Has earthy aromas including white flower and pollen. Pear fruit appears on the palate with almond and bright green apple. Sta. Rita Hills Spear Vineyard Grenache 2019 2 87 cs; $ 60 - c - Osborne makes tactile winemaking choices such as chewing on many of the stems of her Spear Vineyard to Grenache to decide on whole cluster inclusion. Results this time: none. Still, the aromatics are extravagant of fresh rose and strawberry while the concentrated palate of currant and strawberry is anchored in earth spices. acres 0 - cases 3,000 Fertilizers compost, cover crops Plant protection copper, organic, sulfur Weed control mechanical Yeasts spontaneous fermentation Grapes purchase 100% Certification some of the vineyards are certified organic 26

T Lodi Grenache Blanc 2020 EVERYDAY WINE 1 659 cs; $ 28 - a - They grow 3 acres of their signature 100% Grenache Blanc which beguiles with intense floral aromatics and follows with vivid lemon and nectarine with a lingering mineral finish. T Lodi Viognier 2020 1 208 cs; $ 30 - a - Crisp and dry, this 100% Viognier offers an enticing floral nose violets and a voluminous mouthfeel. Lodi Ingénue 2019 1 Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Picpoul; 340 cs; $ 34 - a Named after a k.d. Lang album, Ingénue’s blend speaks to the new varietals at Acquiesce offering abundant aromas of white flowers and farmer’s market basket of summer fruit on the palate. acres 10.5 - cases 3,000 Fertilizers compost, cover crops, manure, mineral fertilizer Plant protection copper, organic, sulfur Weed control mechanical Yeasts commercial cultured yeasts, selected indigenous yeasts Grapes 100% estate-grown Certification none C A L I F O RN I A


INDEX OF WINERIES A Á Deux Têtes (CA) 25 A Tribute to Grace (CA) 26 Abbott Claim Vineyard (OR) 120 Acquiesce Winery (CA) 26 ADAMVS (CA) 27 27 Aeris Wines (CA) Alfaro Family Vineyard & Winery (CA) 28 Alloro Vineyard (OR) 120 Amapola Creek Vineyards & Winery (CA) 28 AmByth Estate (CA) 29 25 âmevive (CA) Ampelos Cellars (CA) 29 Analemma Wines (OR) 121 30 Angeleno Wine Co. (CA) Anthill Farms Winery (CA) 30 Antiquum Farm (OR) 121 Ashes and Diamonds (CA) 31 Authentique Wine Cellars (OR) 122 31 Azolla (CA)

B Badger Mountain Vineyard (WA) 162 Bainbridge Vineyards (WA) 162 Bargetto Winery (CA) 32 BARRA of Mendocino (CA) 32 Beauregard Vineyards (CA) 33 Beckham Family Estate (OR) 122 33 Beckmen Vineyards (CA) Bedrock Wine Co. (CA) 34 Belle Pente Vineyard & Winery (OR) 123 Benziger Family Winery (CA) 34 Bergström Wines (OR) 123 Bethel Heights Vineyard (OR) 124 Big Basin Vineyards (CA) 35 Bionic Wines (WA) 163 Birichino (CA) 35 Bokisch Vineyards (CA) 36

I NDEX OF WINE RIE S

Bonny Doon Vineyard (CA) 36 Bonterra Organic Vineyards (CA) 37 156 Boundary Breaks (NY) 37 Brendel (CA) Brick House Wines (OR) 124 125 Brittan Vineyards (OR) Brooks Wine (OR) 125 126 Bryn Mawr Vineyards (OR) Burgess Cellars (CA) 38

C Cain Vineyard And Winery (CA) 38 Calera (CA) 39 Camins 2 Dreams (CA) 39 CARBONISTE (CA) 40 40 Carol Shelton Wines (CA) CARY Q WINES (CA) 41 Cascade Cliffs Vineyard and Winery (WA) 163 Castoro Cellars (CA) 41 42 Centralas (CA) Charlie & Echo (CA) 42 Chateau Davell (CA) 43 Chehalem Winery (OR) 126 Clif Family Winery (CA) 43 Cliff Lede Vineyards (CA) 44 Cooper Mountain Vineyards (OR) 127 Côte des Cailloux (CA) 44 Coturri Winery (CA) 45 County Line Vineyards (CA) 45 Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden (OR) 127 Cramoisi Vineyard (OR) 128 Crosby Roamann (CA) 46

D Damiani Wine Cellars (NY) DANCIN (OR) Dashe Cellars (CA) DaVero Farms & Winery (CA) David Hill Vineyards and Winery (OR)

156 128 46 47 129

DeRose Vineyards (CA) Domaine Anderson (CA) Domaine de la Côte (CA) Domaine Divio (OR) Domaine Drouhin Oregon (OR) Domaine Nicolas-Jay (OR) Domaine Roy & fils (OR) Dominio IV (OR) Donkey & Goat (CA) Donum Estate (CA)

47 48 48 129 130 130 131 131 49 49

E Eco Terreno Wines (CA) Edio Vineyards at Delfino Farms (CA) Ehlers Estate (CA) Eisele Vineyard (CA) Element Winery (NY) Élevée Winegrowers (OR) Elizabeth Rose (CA) Elk Cove Vineyards (OR) Elkfield Wines (CA) ENA Wines (CA) Enfield Wine Co. (CA) EST (OR) Ettore (CA) Evening Land Seven Springs Estate (OR) Evesham Wood (OR)

50 50 51 51 157 132 52 132 52 53 53 133 54 133 134

F Favia (CA) 54 55 Ferrari Ranch Wines (CA) Field Number Fifteen (CA) 55 Florez Wines (CA) 56 Foundry Vineyards (WA) 164 Fox Run Vineyards (NY) 157 Freeman Vineyard & Winery (CA) 56 Frog’s Leap (CA) 57 Front Porch Farm (CA) 57

169


G Gallica (CA) Ghost Block (CA) Grgich Hills Estate (CA) Grochau Cellars (OR) Gust Wines (CA) Guthrie Family Wines (CA)

K 58 58 59 135 59 60

Keeler Estate Vineyard (OR) 138 139 Kelley Fox Wines (OR) Kelly Fleming Wines (CA) 70 139 King Estate Winery (OR) Kings Carey Wines (CA) 70 140 Kramer Vineyards (OR)

H

L

Haarmeyer Wine Cellars (CA) 60 Haden Fig (OR) 135 Halter Ranch (CA) 61 Hamel Family Wines (CA) 61 Hammerling Wine (CA) 62 Handley Cellars (CA) 62 Hanzell Vineyards (CA) 63 Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards (WA) 164 Hawk and Horse Vineyards (CA) 63 Hedges Family Estate (WA) 165 Heitz Cellar (CA) 64 Herrmann York Wines (CA) 64 HillCrest Vineyard (OR) 136 Hirsch Vineyards (CA) 65 Hobo Wine Company (CA) 65 Holus Bolus The Joy Fantastic (CA) 69 House Family Vineyards (CA) 66 Hyde de Villaine - HdV (CA) 66

La Clarine Farm (CA) 71 Land of Saints Wine Company (CA) 71 Lares Wines (OR) 140 Larkmead Vineyards (CA) 72 Lasseter Family Winery (CA) 72 Laurel Glen Vineyard (CA) 73 141 Left Coast Estate (OR) Lemelson Vineyards (OR) 141 Lester Estate Wines (CA) 73 Lichen Estate (CA) 74 Lindquist Family Wines (CA) 74 142 Lingua Franca (OR) Littorai Wines (CA) 75 75 Lo-Fi Wines (CA) Los Angeles River Wine Co. (CA) 76 Los Pilares (CA) 76 Lumos Wine Co. (OR) 142

I I Brand & Family (CA) Idlewild (CA) Illahe Vineyards (OR) Inman Family Wines (CA)

67 67 136 68

J J. Brix Wines (CA) 68 J.C. Somers Vintner (OR) 137 J.K. Carriere (OR) 137 Johan Vineyards (OR) 138 Jolie-Laide Wines (CA) 69 Joy Fantastic | Holus Bolus (CA) 69

1 70

M Madroña (CA) Madson Wines (CA) MAHA | Villa Creek (CA) Mâitre de Chai (CA) Margins Wine (CA) Martha Stoumen Wines (CA) Massican (CA) Matthiasson (CA) Maysara Winery (OR) Medlock Ames (CA) Mia Bea Wines (CA) Montinore Estate (OR) Mora Estate (CA) Mount Eden Vineyards (CA)

77 77 78 78 79 79 80 80 143 81 81 143 82 82

N Narrow Gate Vineyards (CA)

83

Neal Family Vineyards (CA) Newton Vineyard (CA) Nicholson Ranch (CA)

83 84 84

O Oakville Ranch (CA) 85 85 Oakville Winery (CA) 86 Ojai Vineyard (CA) Old World Winery (CA) 86 87 Once & Future Wine (CA) Open Claim Vineyards (OR) 144 Opus One (CA) 87 88 Ovis (CA)

P Panther Ridge (CA) 88 Paradisos del Sol (WA) 165 Pax Wines (CA) 89 Peay Vineyards (CA) 89 Pét Project (WA) 166 90 Piedrasassi (CA) Porter Creek Vineyards (CA) 90 Portland Wine Company (OR) 144 Portola Vineyards (CA) 91 91 Pott Wines (CA) Precedent Wine (CA) 92 Preston Farm & Winery (CA) 92 Prima Materia Vineyard and Winery (CA) 93 Purity Wine (CA) 93

Q Quady North (OR) Quintessa (CA) Quivira Vineyards (CA)

145 94 94

R Radio-Coteau (CA) RAEN (CA) Raft Wines (CA) Ram’s Gate Winery (CA) Ramble Wines (CA) Red Newt Cellars (NY) Résonance (OR) Ridge Vineyards (CA)

95 95 96 96 97 158 145 97

I N D E X O F W I N E RI E S


Robert Sinskey Vineyards (CA) 98 Rocca Family Vineyards (CA) 98 Roots Wine Co. (OR) 146 Ruby Vineyard & Winery (OR) 146 Ruth Lewandowski Wine (CA) 99

S Sandhi Wines (CA) 99 Sante Arcangeli Family Wines (CA) 100 Saracina Vineyards (CA) 100 Scholium Project (CA) 101 Scribe (CA) 101 Seabold Cellars (CA) 102 Sean Walker McBride (CA) 102 Silver Mountain Vineyards (CA) 103 Silver Thread Vineyard (NY) 158 Sinor-LaVallee (CA) 103 Snowden Vineyards (CA) 104 Sokol Blosser Winery (OR) 147 Spear (CA) 104 Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery (CA) 105 St. Innocent Winery (OR) 147 Standing Stone Vineyards (NY) 159 Statera Cellars (OR) 148 Stirm Wine Co. (CA) 105 Stoller Family Estate (OR) 148 Stone Edge Farm (CA) 106

106 Stony Hill Vineyard (CA) Storrs Winery & Vineyards (CA) 107 Storybook Mountain Vineyards (CA) 107 Suzor Wines (OR) 149 166 Syncline (WA)

Verdad Wine Cellars (CA) 112 113 Viluko Vineyards (CA) Volker Eisele Family Estate (CA) 113

W

T Tablas Creek Vineyard (CA) 108 Tagaris Winery (WA) 167 Tatomer (CA) 108 Terre Rouge/Easton Wines (CA) 109 49 The Donum Estate (CA) The Eyrie Vineyards (OR) 134 The Joy Fantastic | Holus Bolus (CA) 69 The Ojai Vineyard (CA) 86 Thomas Fogarty (CA) 109 Thumbprint Cellars (CA) 110 110 Tres Sabores (CA) Trinafour (CA) 111 Trisaetum (OR) 149 150 Troon Vineyard (OR) Turley Wine Cellars (CA) 111 Twill Cellars (OR) 150 Two Shepherds (CA) 112

Wagner Vineyards (NY) 159 Weisinger Family Winery (OR) 151 Wenzlau Vineyard (CA) 114 114 Wild Hog Vineyard (CA) WillaKenzie Estate (OR) 152 Wilridge Vineyard Winery & Distillery (WA) 167 Winderlea Vineyard & Winery (OR) 152 Windy Oaks (CA) 115 115 Winery Sixteen 600 (CA) Winesmith (CA) 116 Wölffer Estate Vineyard (NY) 160 116 Wrath Wines (CA)

Y Yamakiri Wines (CA) Youngberg Hill (OR)

117 153

Z

U Upper Five Vineyard (OR)

V

151

ZD Wines (CA)

117

103

Boulder Creek (CA) Burdett (NY)

35 156

INDEX OF PLACES A Acampo (CA) 26 Alameda (CA) 46 Amity (OR) 122, 125, 135, 138 Angwin (CA) 27, 83 Annapolis (CA) 89 Aptos (CA) 73, 100, 107 Arkport (NY) 157 Arroyo Grande (CA) 740 112 Ashland (OR) 103

I NDEX OF PLACE S

Avila Beach (CA)

B

C

Bainbridge Island (WA) 162 Beaverton (OR) 127 Benton City (WA) 165 Berkeley (CA) 49, 62, 78 Bonny Doon (CA) 33 Boonville (CA) 74

Calistoga (CA) 51, 70, 72, 107 Camino (CA) 43, 50, 77 Carlton (OR) 120, 123, 131, 133 137, 40, 141, 145, 148 Cazadero (CA) 114 Corralitos (CA) 55, 115 Cupertino (CA) 97

171


D

Lower Lake (CA) Lyle (WA)

Dallas (OR) 136, 144 Davenport (CA) 36, 79 Dayton (OR) 130, 147-149 Dundee (OR) 128, 131-133, 152

M

E Escondido (CA) Eugene (OR)

68 139

F Forest Grove (OR) Fulton (CA)

129, 143 86

G Gaston (OR) 132, 139, 140 Glen Ellen (CA) 34, 45, 72, 73, 87 150 Grants Pass (OR)

H Healdsburg (CA) 30, 47, 57, 67, 69, 81, 90, 92, 94, 99, 110 158, 159 Hector (NY) 146 Hillsboro (OR) Hollister (CA) 39, 47 Hopland (CA) 54, 100

J Jacksonville (OR) Jefferson (OR) Junction City (OR)

127, 145 147 121

K Kelseyville (CA) Kennewick (WA)

88 162

L Lodi (CA) Lodi (NY) Lompoc (CA)

15, 36 158, 159 29, 39, 48, 70, 90 99, 104, 114 Los Alamos (CA) 26, 75 Los Angeles (CA) 30, 42 Los Olivos (CA) 33, 69

172

Napa (CA) 31, 37, 38, 40, 46, 54, 66, 76, 80, 84, 85, 91, 98, 101, 102, 117 Newberg (OR) 123, 124, 126, 129 130, 137, 149

Salem (OR) 124, 126, 13, 135, 142 Salinas (CA) 67 San Bernardino (CA) 64 San Diego (CA) 42, 76 Santa Cruz (CA) 35, 103 Santa Maria (CA) 25, 108 Santa Rosa (CA) 40, 41, 53, 65 68, 82, 96, 113, 116 Saratoga (CA) 66, 82 Sebastopol (CA) 45, 56, 75, 89, 95 Sherwood (OR) 120, 122 Soledad (CA) 116 Somerset (CA) 71 Sonoma (CA) 25, 28, 34, 44, 49, 50 59-61, 63, 84, 96, 101, 106, 115 Soquel (CA) 32 St. Helena (CA) 43, 51, 58, 64, 80 97, 104-106, 110, 113

O

T

63 166

Manson (WA) 164 Marina (CA) 102 McMinnville (OR) 125, 134, 143, 153 Medford (OR) 128 Mendocino (CA) 79 Milton-Freewater (WA) 163 121 Mosier (OR)

N

Oakland (CA) Ojai (CA) Orcutt (CA)

52, 58, 85, 87, 93 86 71

Talent (OR) Templeton (CA)

P

U

Paso Robles (CA) 61, 78, 108 Penn Yan (NY) 157 88 Penngrove, California (CA) Philo (CA) 48, 62 142 Philomath (OR) Placerville (CA) 55, 83 109 Plymouth (CA) Portland (OR) 144 Portola Valley (CA) 91

Ukiah (CA)

R Redwood Valley (CA) Richland (WA) Richmond (CA) Rickreall (OR) Roseburg (OR) Rutherford (CA)

32, 81 167 93 138, 141 136 57, 59, 94

S Sagaponack (NY) Saint Helena (CA)

160 38

151 29, 41, 111

27, 37, 52, 111

W Walla Walla (WA) 164, 166 Watsonville (CA) 28, 56, 77, 105 West Linn (OR) 150 West Sacramento (CA) 60 Windsor (CA) 112 Wishram (WA) 163 Woodside (CA) 92, 109

Y Yakima (WA) Yamhill (OR) Yorkville (CA) Yountville (CA)

167 146, 152 31, 117 44

Z Zillah (WA)

165

I N D E X O F P L AC E S



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