Epicure Vietnam Issue 08

ISSUE 08 SPRING 2023 epicurevietnam.com

A UNIQUE WINE TASTING EXPERIENCE Bringing quality wines and spirits products closer to wine connoisseurs

FABULOUS FEASTS ODE TO JOY

It’s three times the delight as chefs reveal their new festive dishes

AN INVITING BISTRO FOR SEAFOOD LOVERS

A refined yet casual dining destination to enjoy the very best seafood in town

PUBLISHER 'S NOTE

A Taste Of New Things To Come

I

t's that special time of the year when Vietnam is busier than ever, full of vibrant colours, and ready to welcome Tet – our version of the ubiquitous Lunar New Year. Everyone wears the latest outfits and heads out for shopping and taking photos, lots of them.

Crowded coffee shops, bustling restaurants, and busy luxury hotels refurbish, and decorate their entrances and facades to welcome the new year.

It is heart-warming to experience the difference to the past few years, when Covid ruled and gloom reigned. Now it's the total opposite, with Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi and Nguyen Hue Boulevard in Saigon so busy that it' is almost impossible to walk around. The festive mood and exciting vibe can be seen everywhere.

Although the worldwide economy has not recovered, the horrific events in the Ukraine war still see no end, and China's travel restrictions only being slowly lifted, Vietnam continues to grow and new hotels and resorts opening almost every month throughout the whole country.

The integrated Hoiana Resort & Golf, one hour's drive south of Danang, is one example. Guests can choose between resort, hotel, or apartment accommodations, play golf and enjoy a wide variety of entertainment. With the further benefit of their generous loyalty program – Hoiana Premier Rewards – a stay there brings unforgettable experiences and memories.

Saigon too offers many new dining options, such as WKND, S79 Skyline Dining, Sabor Tapas Bar & Restaurant, or Coastal Saigon and Duke's Oyster Bar. Why not enjoy their culinary offerings with one of seven fine wines from Mouton Cadet, a popular brand of the House of Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Led by Brand Director Jérôme Aguirre, Mouton Cadet is distributed by The Warehouse, it is enjoying fast growing popularity in Vietnam.

So please join us in exploring Epicure Vietnam's 8th Edition, presenting you with newly opened restaurants, and deliciously innovative dishes. Celebrate your friendships, reunite with your family, and plan to explore new destinations in the Year of The Cat. All of us at Epicure Vietnam and the Oriental Media Group wish you a Prosperous, Healthy, and Happy New Year.

Jade Huynh Publisher

6 epicurevietnam

LUXURY CONCIERGE & LIFESTYLE MANAGEMENT

PRIVATE JET & YACHT CHARTERS

CONCIERGE SERVICE

PRIVILEGE MANAGEMENT

GLOBAL REWARDS SOLUTIONS

PROUDLY REPRESENTED BY ORIENTAL MEDIA SAIGON: 19/24 Doan Thi Diem Street, Phu Nhuan District, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam Call us: +84 28 3844 1612 | www.oriental-media.com BANGKOK: 589/104 Central City Tower, 18 th Floor, Thepparat Road, North Bangna, Bangna, Bangkok, Thailand 10260 Call us: 02-016-9998 | www.worldrewardsolutions.com

VOLUME 08 | AUTHORS

SPRING 2023

THANH NIEN PUBLISHING HOUSE HO CHI MINH CITY BRANCH DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING DIRECTOR & PUBLISHER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER ACCOUNT MANAGER SENIOR EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ASSISTANT EDITORS DESIGNER ADVERTISING EDITORIAL CIRCULATION

Floor 11th, Bao Tien Phong Building, D29 Pham Van Bach, Yen Hoa, Cau Giay, Hanoi 145 Pasteur Street, Vo Thi Sau Ward, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Le Thanh Ha Ta Quang Huy Jade Huynh Leon Shears Christian Baker Tuong Vi, Anh Tram Tracie May-Wagner Rainer Sigel, Jovel Chan, René Marre, Nida Seah, Alfonso Pereira, Robert Goh, Luo Jingmei, A. Grag, Anton D. Javier, Esther Faith Lew, Priyanka Elhence, Eve Tedja June Lee, Nimmi Malhotra Thao Nguyen, My Hien, Tuan Phong Quoc Vuong Marketing@oriental-media.com Editorial@oriental-media.com Circulation@oriental-media.com

EDITOR WINE EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL WRITER FEATURES WRITER

Nida Seah June Lee Eve Tedja Victoria Lim Sharmaine Loh

SENIOR DESIGNERS

Shee Leng, Dewi M. Singgih

IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER CONTRIBUTOR REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR MARKETING EXECUTIVE SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER MANAGING DIRECTOR

Jun Evangelista Tu Jie Rui Priyanka Elhenc Dewi Prasodjo Daniel Poon Sheila Devi Shauna Mun Dennis Pua

epicure vietnam is licensed by Media Group Pte Ltd registered in Singapore and produced 4 times a year by Oriental Media Company Ltd 19/24 Doan Thi Diem Street, Ward 1, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC, Vietnam T: +84 28 3844 1612 | E: editorial@oriental-media.com Printed by ITAXA Company 126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Distributed by Phuong Nam Bookstores 940 Ba Thang Hai Street, Ward 15, District 11, HCMC | Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi Street, Ben Nghe, District 1, HCMC Our social media channels

epicurevietnam epicureasia

ON THE COVER Photography Jasper Yu Assisted by Tang Jun Wen Art direction and styling Nikki Ho Location & Recipes InterContinental Singapore Gold Plate Stylist’s own

8 epicurevietnam

epicurevietnam epicureasia

epicurevietnam.com epicureasia.com

Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication, neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

Publishing License No. 409-2022/CXBIPH/36-11/TN. Publishing Decision: 500/QĐ-TN Date of License Issued: December 31st, 2022. ISBN Code: 978-604-358-063-1.

Size 230 x 280mm. Publishing Quantity: 25,000 copies. Registered in January 2023

GOOD TIMES GREAT FOOD GOOD TIMES

GREAT FOOD GOOD TIMES

HOTLINE 1900 636431

SCaN ME TO DOWNLOAD APP

HoTLINE 1900 277 267

CELEBRATE MoMENTS

GREAT FOOD GOOD TIMES

GREAT FOOD GOOD TIMES

SCAN ME TO DOWNLOAD APP

CONTE NTS

EPICURE GIFTS 22

A Serene Pre-Tet Respite

24

A Unique Wine Tasting Experience

EPICURE NEWS 26

Eclectic And Inspired Global Cuisine

29 Gourmet-Focused Plates Showcasing Contemporary Sardinian Cuisine Old World European Charm Paired With Romantic Sunset Views And Tapas

30 A Nostalic Throwback To Sixties Saigon A Casual Beer And Fried Chicken Joint Hidden Inside An Art Gallery

Romantic Locale To Wine And Dine

27

Uber Chic Local Culinary Destination Infused With The Vibrant Flavors Of Vietnam Italian Flair For Local Vietnamese Taste Buds

28 A Masterchef’s Comeback To The Culinary World A Fine Dining Experience With Unparalleled Views

10 epicurevietnam

31

A Bohemian Chic Brunch Spot By The River Old Meets New Omakase Rituals A Michelin Star Studded French Cafe In The Heart Of Saigon

" fine caviars, om the largest caviar producer in the world."

NOW AVAILABLE IN VIETNAM AT:

Seafood Shop & Restaurant www.lapoissonnerie.vn

SEAFOOD & OYSTER BAR

www.dukes-oysterbar.vn

CONTE NTS

GLOBETROTTING EPICURE 32

Refreshed And Ready

GOURMET INSIDER 36 37 38

Duke’s Oyster Bar An Inviting Bistro For Seafood Lovers La Poissonnerie Seafood With A Distinctly French Flair Black Cow A Haven Of Sukiyaki

12 epicurevietnam

Firangi Superstar Distinct Indian Flavours 40 Mirazur From Côte d'Azur with Love 41 Casa By Remy Lefevre Woodfire Gastronomy In Homely Setting 39

DOMPETROFF

Premium caviar & fine food specialist since 1979

NOW AVAILABLE IN VIETNAM AT:

Seafood Shop & Restaurant www.lapoissonnerie.vn

SEAFOOD & OYSTER BAR

www.dukes-oysterbar.vn

CONTE NTS

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE 42 46 50 54 60

Hoiana Premier Rewards Experience The New Heights Of Luxury Modern Oases Garden Vacation Southern Charm Time To Reawaken

GOURMET KNOWLEDGE 62 66 72 76 80 82 86

Black Gold Of The Gastronomy State Of The Ocean Tilting The Slaces Power Up Peruvian Foods Style And Substance What's The Complete Package?

Consuming Consciously, Together

14 epicurevietnam

CONTE NTS

COVER STORY 92

Fabulous Feasts Ode To Joy

CHEF MASTERCLASS 100 102 104 108 114

The Global Connoisseur Of Gastronomy Vietnam’s Preeminent Celebrity Chef Expanding Horizons Giving Back Antipodal Tendencies

EPICUREAN PROFILE 116 A Matter Of Taste

1 6 epicurevietnam

CONTE NTS

WINE KNOWLEDGE 118 Wind and Unwind 122 Every Day Is A Reason To Drink Provence Rosé 124 Sommelier-Approved: Wines To Indulge In This Season

VINE EXPECTATIONS 130 A Heritage Of Mouton Cadet Wines With Visionary Leadership 134 A Singular Quest 138 Crusading For The Cava 140 Time To Drink South African Wines Is Now 146

CELLAR CHOICE

1 8 epicurevietnam

SIGNATIO

OF

OTECTED PR

N

DE

ORIGI •

•

RAPHIC

A

N

T RO

NDICATIO LI

ECTED G

N

G EO

THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS

•

•P

CONTE NTS

RAISING THE BARS 148 Island Of Libations

BAR AT HOME 152 Alfresco Drinking

SEEN & SAVOURED 154 A Culinary Caviar Celebration 155 Mouton Cadet Réserve Selection Masterclass

By Jérôme Aguirre 156 Where To Find

20 epicurevietnam

EPICURE GIFTS

A Serene

PRE-TET RESPITE For a peaceful escape from the hurried and bustling city prior to Tet, Annam Gourmet Stores are a safe haven for you and your family to dodge the chaos. With a lovely open terrace, perfect for unwinding, Annam Gourmet is not only a place to stop, take a breath, and relax, but also where one may enjoy a premium culinary journey at their buffet lounge, and choose a specially curated, gourmet “Tet Hamper” for loved ones.

22 epicurevietnam

IMMERSE IN NATURE WHILE ESCAPING THE HUSTLE & BUSTLE OF CITY LIFE

An Annam Gourmet lounge location may have an elegant, French-style bistro feel, or a modern and stylish vibe, inclusive of a green space which immerses its guests in the bounties of nature while escaping the bustling life in the city. It’s a secluded space where one may enjoy a hot cup of coffee with a flaky croissant and completely relax within its peaceful space.

Interwoven with fresh green spaces

The Annam Gourmet Lounge is a unique venue for each Annam Gourmet store, providing guests with a chill place for a chat with friends, or a leisurely and yummy lunch.

With luxurious and classy European-style flair, an Annam Gourmet Lounge is considered a delicate touch between classic and modern, interwoven with fresh green spaces, for an impression of total calm and peace.

High-quality ingredients with authentic recipes

All dishes on the Lounge menus are meticulously prepared with high-quality ingredients, by highly experienced chefs. The beverage choices, from coffee and tea to premium beer and wine, contribute to the enhancement of the taste of the food and experience for the guests of Annam Gourmet Lounge. The Annam Gourmet Buffet provides their beloved customers with a wide range of delicious choices, prepared with only the freshest high-quality ingredients.

In addition, they also provide their customers with a range of catering services delivered by their friendly and professional staff.

FRESH GOURMET HAMPER GIFT BOXES OF PLENTY

To help spread the holiday cheer, Annam Gourmet also supplies unique and elegant “Hamper Gift Sets" which are chock-full of fresh and healthy ingredients. Sharing a “Hamper Gift Set” with a friend or loved one will show just how much you care about their well-being, and letting them know how much you love them.

The Glistening Moment With a unique design and shape, the fruit gift box is simply scrumptious, and a practical gift with symbolic meaning. Containing a myriad of the freshest and sweetest seasonal fruit, it mirrors a full and prosperous life, in health and wellness.

The Gourmet Moment The gourmet gift box combines cold cuts, a variety of cheeses, dried fruit, nuts and additional premium products, manifesting good luck wishes and the

welcoming of a beautiful and prosperous New Year.

Packed full of premium ingredients, the happy recipient can easily create a sumptuous charcuterie platter for friends and family to enjoy at an intimate at-home cocktail party.

With 20 years of experience, Annam Gourmet offers a great combination of quality products from prestigious global brands. The box design is meticulously crafted, with the distinct artistic style which can only be found at Annam Gourmet.

Let's celebrate a brilliant 2023 with Annam Gourmet!

Like blooming flowers, it will help ignite the vitality of a new beginning filled with joy, benefit and happiness. The best things wrapped up in a thoughtful Tet gift basket are destined to be a warm surprise for loved ones, family members, and business associates during this festive and happy season.

Annam Gourmet Store Contact Hotline: 1900 63 64 31 Email: customerservice@annam-gourmet.com Website: shop.annam-gourmet.com

epicurevietnam 23

EPICURE GIFTS

A Unique

WINE TASTING EXPERIENCE The WAREHOUSE is one of the largest and most prestigious wine importers and distributors in Vietnam. Having been at market for nearly 20 years, WAREHOUSE offers its customers a unique wine tasting experience with thousands of products from hundreds of long-established world-wide brands. WAREHOUSE’s distribution channels are prevalent in major cities throughout Vietnam, Cambodia, and Myanmar.

W

ith a store location recently opened at the end of last year in Thu Duc city, WAREHOUSE marks a milestone of launching 15 stores, with operations in major cities across Vietnam, bringing quality wines and spirits closer to its beloved wine collectors and connoisseurs.

At the branch, guests will experience a amazing world of wine, with products provided by the most prestigious labels from France, Italy, Spain, Australia, America and much more.

They will be greeted and enthusiastically consulted by highly professional staff, with a deep knowledge of wine, helping to make the most suitable purchase for a gift or personal collection.

More than just a wine emporium, WAREHOUSE aims to introduce its customers to a luxurious lifestyle through the finest wines, spirits, and wide variety of beverages and food.

In the well-designed wine tasting room at each WAREHOUSE location, customers may choose several bottles of wine to be poured by their caring and conversant staff. On top of which, they are granted the opportunity to exchange interesting and informative knowledge about the chosen bottles, imported from all over the world.

24 epicurevietnam

For individual and business customers, WAREHOUSE supports organizing private wine tasting parties at the store, and provides catering products and services for events, both big and small. By partnering with WAREHOUSE, guests can enjoy the finest selected wines and culinary delights, while participating in several interesting activities prepared by a highly enthusiastic team. In the past year, WAREHOUSE was honored to partner with Shinhan Bank, Phu My Hung Livin App, and Trung Nguyen Legend Group and produced wine tasting events for their hundreds of beloved clients and staff.

WAREHOUSE aims to create a space exclusively for the wineloving community by the launch of their Loyalty application.

When you download the app, and register for membership, you will instantly receive fantastic deals on in-store wine purchases, as well as be the first to receive key insider information about upcoming events and promotions.

To make the shopping experience convenient for customers, WAREHOUSE provides express delivery services in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Da Nang, as well as standard delivery within the surrounding areas. WAREHOUSE's customer service team are always ready to support via hotline and their social media channels. WAREHOUSE is committed to serving customers throughout their entire shopping journey, ensuring the best purchase experience for their customer base.

WAREHOUSE also offers gifting solutions to help their clients express gratitude for relatives, friends, and partners.

WAREHOUSE includes premium imported products in their gift collections, so that every endowment received guarantees the most joyous experience for the recipient. The many luxurious gift box designs enable their clients to show their unique style and taste, while sending the perfect message to their loved ones.

A WAREHOUSE gift voucher bestows opportunity to choose from more than 1500 of beverage options, available at stores nationwide.

WAREHOUSE Hotline: 1900 277 267 Email: contact.vn@warehouse-asia.com Website: warehouse-asia.com

epicurevietnam 25

EPICURE NEWS

ECLECTIC AND INSPIRED GLOBAL CUISINE Chicago, Illinois born Chef-Owner Jamie Celaya describes his food as “International Izakaya, third culture cuisine”. Diners will find it simply sublime. Featuring an eclectic and utterly inspired menu of vegetable forward Subtle small plates meant for sharing, Sufficient mains bursting with multiple layers of flavor, and both Twisted Classic and Signature craft cocktails, this intimate Thao Dien eatery produces honest and highly innovative comfort food with an environment mindful of sustainability, accessibility, and hospitality. Must tries at Okra FoodBar include their spin on Street Corn, with Cilantro, Parmesan, Chili, Brown Bourbon Butter and Pork Floss, Land & Sea-Viche, a Sea Bass Crudo with Braised Pigs Ear, Chili, Lime and Bánh Tráng, and their namesake Charred Okra with Preserved Lemon-Tomato Jam, Curry Yogurt, Burnt Pomelo and Sarsaparilla-za Atar. Chef Jamie’s only rule for his food is “Make it delicious!” and merely calling his food delicious is a humble understatement. As they say in the USA, it’s a “Party in your mouth!” 10 Thao Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 90 260 4209

ROMANTIC LOCALE TO WINE AND DINE

Located in the heart of Thao Dien, Ho Chi Minh City’s thriving foodie haven, lies The Gate Wine & Dining, a romantic, atmospheric, and sincerely inviting indoor-outdoor dining venue. Presenting an abundant selection of globally influenced dishes, an extensive wine list favorable for even the most discerning palate, and unique signature cocktails, it’s the perfect locale for a dreamy date night or elegant business dinner. The Gate Wine & Dining not only focuses on flavorful taste, but also in plating, offering each dish as aesthetically pleasing art-on-a-plate. Menu offerings of note include Kobe Beef Tartare with Red Onion, Garlic, Capers, Lemon, and Parmesan Cheese, topped with a raw Quail Egg and shaped as a crescent moon, Bone in Prime Rib, grilled to perfection, and served with Grilled Veggies and choice of sauce, and their fluffy, and light as air, Tiramisu. 17 Thao Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 82 329 8998

26 epicurevietnam

UBER CHIC LOCAL CULINARY DESTINATION

Restaurateur Jay Moir’s concept behind this chic and industrial, yet warm and welcoming eatery was to provide a transitional space, from dawn to dusk, serving great coffee, fresh-pressed juices, Kombucha and smoothies in the early morning hours, delicious Brunch and Lunch, a generous and boozy Happy Hour, and satisfying Dinner and Later Night Snack selections.

Driven to become the local go-to community hub, fur babies are very welcome, as are the kiddos who can be safely tucked away in WKND’s supervised Hamster Maze while mom and dad decompress over a bottle of bubbles. Try the Smashed Peas on Toast, served on Sourdough Bread with Cashew Cream Cheese, Sous Vide Eggs, Candied Bacon and Dukkah, WKND Free Range Roast Chicken with Mixed Brown Rice and Grilled Veggies and the Watermelon Paloma with Lunazul Blanco, Pink Pomelo Syrup, Watermelon, a splash of Perrier, and served in a Tay Ninh Green Chili Salt rimmed glass with citrus jelly. 27 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 90 972 2627

INFUSED WITH THE VIBRANT FLAVORS OF VIETNAM

Aussie born Executive Chef Chris Donnellan’s inventive contemporary dishes contain all the aromatics found within the gins of Lady Trieu. The Triệu Institute, food & cocktails within this celebrated restaurant blend in perfect harmony, allowing each customer to experience the bold, and singular flavors which span across Vietnam. Chef Chris designs signature vinegars as marinades, like Hibiscus Vinegar, which takes eight to ten weeks to complete, and includes Coriander, Cubeb Pepper, Sweet Orange Peel, Lotus Leaf and Lotus, Hibiscus, and Jasmine Flowers. The Hibiscus Vinegar is applied as a curing agent for the Cured Kingfish, effecting a vibrant purple hue, and infusing sweet, sour, and floral notes deep within the protein. The Cured Kingfish is served with Apple, Smoked Matcha Sour Cream and Tobiko, and to complement its complex taste, pair with a Flower General: Dalat Flowerbomb Gin, Wasabi, Jasmine Syrup and Seaweed Foam; it’s the perfect marriage. 10 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 90 685 3887

ITALIAN FLAIR FOR LOCAL VIETNAMESE TASTE BUDS

Located in Thao Dien, in District 2, this modest Apero little bistro produces classic Italian plates, slightly modified to satisfy the local Vietnamese palate. Featuring a limited, yet satisfying, array of mostly pasta dishes, a few choice mains and pizza on the weekends, they prepare fresh and homemade Pici, a thick, hand-rolled pasta typically made from flour and water, and richly coat it with your choice of classic Italian sauces. The Pici Pesto topped with Stracciatella, the creamy center of Burrata Cheese, is a must try as is their Pici Truffle tossed in a creamy truffle sauce; it’s not so great for the waistline, but well worth each and every calorie. For a cocktail, sip on their signature Apero, with Mango, Lime and Chili for a subtle kick to balance the sweet. 45 Nguyen Duy Hieu Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 78 999 4545

epicurevietnam 27

Photo: Mervin Lee

A MASTERCHEF’S COMEBACK TO THE CULINARY WORLD Founded by MasterChef Harold Ngo Thanh Hoa, East is a “long-cherished brainchild” of Chef Harold and a tribute to his ten-year culinary career since he claimed the coveted title of MasterChef Vietnam in 2012. Joining a wave of modern Vietnames restaurants in Saigon giving new light to Vietnamese cuisine - familiar Vietnamese flavours, premium locally-sourced ingredients, and Western cooking techniques - one can expect playful creations such as Pan-fried toothfish with Hoi An green chilli and crispy quinoa as well as Oven-roasted Barramundi Quang Nam style garnished with fresh turmeric green chilli, fish sauce and lotus mint fennel salad.

Besides East’s a la carte menu - which is divided into salads, lite appetisers, mains and sweets - it also offers a seasonal tasting menu for discerning foodies looking for a more gastronomic experience. 73 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Street, Vo Thi Sau Ward, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 93 821 4958

A FINE DINING EXPERIENCE WITH UNPARALLELED VIEWS

Situated on the 79th floor of the stunning Landmark 81, S°7979 Skyline Dining offers unparalleled views of Ho Chi Minh City paired with equally fine flavours by Executive Chef Tommy Tran and Sous Chef Eden Daus from Malaysia. For now, the restaurant is open just for dinner and you can choose from three set menus - seven course, nine-course and a vegetarian set menu. All menus feature top-notch ingredients such as Japanese scallop, uni, Osietra Caviar, Ox Tongue and even ones that boost global flavours such as “Lemak Laksa” that celebrate both Chef Tommy and Chef Eden's Malaysian roots. To up-level your dining experience, be sure to snag a seat by one of the many floor-to-ceiling windows.

79 Floor, Landmark 81, 22 Ward, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 91 125 9449

28 epicurevietnam

GOURMET-FOCUSED PLATES SHOWCASING CONTEMPORARY SARDINIAN CUISINE Helmed by Chef Franco Mannazzu (ex-Executive Chef Tavola Original Italian Restaurant), Tavolo Dello serves up “authentic Sardinian cuisine” in the heart of Thao Dien. Here, Chef Franco demonstrates his talent to the fullest in his open kitchen where he combines top-quality ingredients with the flavours and aromas of Sardinia. From classic pizza and pasta dishes that use handmade pasta such as the Tagliolini al Nero Seppia (homemade fresh squid ink Tagliolini cooked with prawn, squid, cherry tomato, bisque, and garlic basil) to ones more inventive, each dish is a gourmet-focused plate that showcases superb produce prepared in a modern and contemporary style. The space is cosy and comfortably seats eight to ten in both its indoor and alfresco area.

But, if you’re worried about not being able to snag a seat, fret not as this delivery-friendly concept offers 15% off your first delivery order. 28 Thao Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 77 569 5237

OLD WORLD EUROPEAN CHARM PAIRED WITH ROMANTIC SUNSET VIEWS AND TAPAS Nowadays, you don’t have to travel far for a taste of Spain in Saigon. Delicious tapas, Jamon croquettes, squid ink paella and tapas are easily available thanks to a recent influx of new Spanish restaurants in recent years. Jumping onboard the bandwagon is Sabor Tapas Restaurant located in the heart of bustling District 1 with its charming interiors and spacious rooftop alfresco area.

Perfect for a romantic date night or an after-work drink, here you’ll find your tapas staples such as Patatas Braves, Tortilla de Patatas, Iberico Croquettes and Seafood Paella as well as classic European dishes including Roasted French Chicken. And if you need more convincing, Sabor also serves up a generous daily happy hour and live jazz and soul music on selected days. 114 Yersin Street, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 77 173 0112

epicurevietnam 29

A NOSTALIC THROWBACK TO SIXTIES SAIGON Adding to Saigon’s growing list of brunch spots, Arto is a day-to-night multi-concept space that combines a modern cocktail bar named ‘Everyday Everynight Bar’ on the first floor and a cafe cum restaurant inspired by Vietnam in the 60’s on the second. With black and white tiles, nude green hues and touches of antique gold furniture, this vintage shophouse-esque space is a treat to both the eyes and the palette. For food, enjoy a variety of brunch favourites or build your own breakfast where you can choose your style of egg, bread and sides. And, if you’re craving a taste of home, you’ll be pleased to know Arto House also offers traditional breakfast staples from around the world - think Singaporean Kaya Toast with eggs and a Paris breakfast featuring fresh croissants. 19B Ngo Quang Huy Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 86 618 8801

A CASUAL BEER AND FRIED CHICKEN JOINT HIDDEN INSIDE AN ART GALLERY

Named after the Japanese onomatopoeic expression, which describes the sound or appearance of a small, light or dry object, KoroKoro is a Japanese chicken and beer joint brought to you by the same guys behind Kohei’s Cocktail Bar in District 1 so there’s no surprise it’s located in the same building. A casual fuss-free spot hidden inside an art gallery, Korokoro invites you to let down your hair, loosen your tie and indulge in some good ol’ beer, fried chicken and Japanese munchies - kimchi, wasabi octopus and dashi egg roll. For something savoury, dig into Korokoro’s selection of stirfried dishes - sliced pork with vegetables, minced pork with eggplant and chicken liver pate and pork gyoza as well as curry rice. And of course, don’t forget to wash it all down with some beer, it’s a must at Korokoro. 151 Dong Khoi Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 90 466 8520

30 epicurevietnam

OLD MEETS NEW OMAKASE RITUALS

Founder and Head Chef Linh heads the newly-opened Shin-kon Omakase, which specialises in the art of omakase and bespoke dining. Chef Linh brings with him more than five years of experience crafting sushi and cutting his teeth in various sushi restaurants across Japan. A brilliant light-wood hinoki wood counter spans the restaurant, where diners can choose between three 20-course menus - and indulge in dishes along the lines of a trio combination of maguro (bluefin tuna), ikura (fish roe) and uni (sea urchin), and a selection of fresh sashimi flown in from Toyosu Market (the new Tsukiji fish market) and Osaka, where Shin-Kon imports its maguro amongst other fishes like Madai. 15 Nguyen Thiep Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

T: +84 38 906 5728

A BOHEMIAN CHIC BRUNCH SPOT

BY THE RIVER

Located along the river and nestled inside one of the oldest and most peaceful enclaves in Saigon, Coastal Saigon offers a muchneeded respite away from the hustle and bustle of the city with its lush greenery, scenic views and rustic chic tropical interiors inspired by Bali. This day-to-night spot family-friendly spot serves up your favourite breakfast classics such as Avo’ on toast, homemade granola with fruit, eggs benedict and pancakes with fresh fruit. For lunch and dinner, we recommend diving into the seafood platter or taking your pick from one of Coastal Saigon’s many locally-inspired seafood dishes such as Ginger Crab and Lemongrass Hamichi with turmeric, kaffir lime leaves, dill and chilli. Best part? Coastal Saigon has an under-12 kids menu for the little ones to enjoy and for the adults: a happy hour on both food and drinks from 4 to 7 pm daily. 53 Vo Truong Toan Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 93 181 4987

A MICHELIN STAR STUDDED FRENCH CAFE IN THE HEART OF SAIGON

No, this is not your ordinary cafe in Saigon. Fashionista Café made waves in the local media when it flew down French Chef Thierry Drapeau (two Michelin stars) for its grand opening. More fine dining restaurant than cafe, the team served up a repertoire of fine dishes alongside Chef Thierry for an esteemed line-up of guests. Fashionista Cafe serves what it coins “Vietnamese delicacies with a French touch and French cuisine with a Vietnamese flavour” which means beyond your usual cheese and charcuterie platters and French classics such as Ris de Veau, you can also expect locally-inspired dishes such as Cod fish with kimchi and sawtooth oil. 22B Phung Khac Khoan Street, Da Kao Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. T: +84 86 701 4786

epicurevietnam 31

GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

REFRESHED AND READY New spaces, menus, and even a new chef at these tried and tested favorites.

BY ANTON D. JAVIER

32 epicurevietnam

ALTRO ZAFFERANO

Ten years since opening at the 43rd storey of Ocean Financial Centre, Zafferano has been the go-to spot for fine Italian fare and breathtaking Singapore views. After a decade of wowing diners, the dining destination went through a speedy 45-day renovation, resulting in updated interiors, an impressive 12m-long open kitchen, and private dining areas. In addition to the space, Executive Chef Andrea De Paola also took this opportunity to present a finely crafted menu that’s waiting to be discovered.

Now known as Altro Zafferano, or “the other Zafferano”, the restaurant enters a new chapter with an impressive seafood-rich menu that features contemporary interpretations of Southern Italian classics. New menu highlights include the Wild Red Bream Crudo with Tomato, Basil, and Frisella bread – a light, moreish dish comprised of tender twirls of fresh red bream, mozzarella cream, basil emulsion, nuggets of crisp frisella bread, and a tart tomato emulsion. Of the several pasta dishes, top marks go to the House-made Tagliolini with Langoustine Carpaccio, Amalfi Lemon Garum, and Sea Grapes. Every twirl and mouthful of the delicate pasta dish promises bright, fresh flavors.

Meanwhile, the Silver Cod with Peperone Crusco and Mussels Velouté is a must when it comes to mains. The elegantly plated dish packs a punch with delicate, smokey flavors that’s complemented by sweet peppers done in three different ways.

For a cool, fresh finish to the meal, we recommend the Amalfi Lemon with Pink Pepper and Limoncello, which features soft sponge, confit lemon, white chocolate, pink pepper cream, and limoncello granita.

Level 43, Ocean Financial Centre, 10 Collyer Quay, Tel: 6509 1488

epicurevietnam 33

SHANG PALACE

All eyes are on Shangri-La Singapore’s Shang Palace with the arrival of new Executive Chinese Chef, Daniel Cheung.

Coming fresh from a five-year tenure at Shang Palace Kowloon, Chef Cheung brings with him close to four decades of toplevel Cantonese cooking. Shang Palace’s loyal clientele will be especially excited because Chef Cheung’s menu is comprised of time-honored classics infused with modernity, meticulous presentation, and bold flavors.

Must-tries from Chef Cheung’s menu include the Applewood Smoked Bean Curd Rolls with shiitake mushroom, carrot, and green mustard – a vegetarian-friendly started that combines fresh ingredients and impeccable technique. Then there’s the ultra-luxurious Boneless Quail filled with bird’s nest in supreme broth that’s cooked for eight hours using chicken, pork, and Jinhua ham. A surprising addition to the menu is the Stewed Shrimp Pomelo Peel, which is a laborious dish that transforms the texture of pomelo peel into an almost yam-like texture and combined with a briny sauce made with soup stock, oyster sauce, sugar, and shrimp roe.

34 epicurevietnam

Other signature dishes that highlight Chef Cheung’s flavorforward techniques include the Baked Live Prawns with Garlic and Sarawak White Pepper, a fragrant dish that juxtaposes the seafood’s inherent sweetness and subtle bite of the peppercorns.

And while a little too saucy for our liking, the Fried Rice with Kagoshima Wagyu Beef is an elevated take on the wok hei-rich dish, which is stuffed in a warm, hollowed tomato and finished with a classic sweet and sour sauce.

Shangri-La Singapore, Lobby Level, Tower Wing, 22 Orange Grove Road, Tel: 6213 4473/4398

DOLCETTO

What was once a quiet corner bakery and café known for its breads and pastries, Dolcetto has finally come into its own and has expanded into a multi-concept gourmet destination for all things Italian. Following a four-month renovation, the expanded Dolcetto is now a 100-seater space, boasting an artisanal pasticceria and all-day mercatino, offering an irresistible array of Italian food and drinks.

Today, Dolcetto is a one-stop spot for regional and seasonal Italian pastries, which include fluffy bomboloni, traditional focaccia breads, decadent cakes, and tarts – all freshly made by the hotel’s pastry team. In addition to these specialty bakes, the menu also offers a selection of gourmet sandwiches, quiches, and ready-to-eat mains for those looking for more substantial lunch options. If you decide to linger on until dinner, you can opt for antipasti, handcrafted pizzetta, pastas, and sharing plates – perfectly washed down with cocktails, beer, and various Italian wines.

For those with a sweet tooth, the new Dolcetto is a confectionary wonderland, with a dizzying display of freshly made gelato, artisanal pralines, candies, and chocolates. Bring a taste of Italy home too with the wide range of specialty foods and merchandise, which include cheeses, pasta and pasta sauces, balsamic vinegars, olive oils, and wines.

Regent Singapore, Lobby, 1 Cuscaden Road, Tel: 6725 3244

epicurevietnam 35

GOURMET INSIDER

DUKE’S OYSTER BAR An Inviting Bistro for Seafood Lovers

Nestled away in a secluded courtyard along bustling Xuan Thuy street in Thao Dien is Duke’s Oyster Bar, a refined yet casual destination to enjoy the freshest seafood in town. Owned and operated by La Poissonnerie, Duke’s is one of the neighborhood’s hippest new restaurants.

U

pon stepping into the restaurant, guests are immediately transported to the ocean by a large Kraken painted on the wall and a distinctly nautical blue and white color scheme. The cozy space is ideal for small groups, and there is also outdoor seating available in the breezy, tree-filled courtyard.

As the name implies, Duke’s main draw is its fresh oysters, both locally sourced and imported from France. Their oysters can be enjoyed à la carte or as part of one of their signature seafood platters, including lobsters, mussels, shrimps, and more. An extensive caviar menu features big names such as Kaluga Queen and Dom Petroff, and their smoked fish options, smoked in-house

by La Poissonnerie, are another highlight of the menu.

Duke’s is more than just fresh shellfish, however. Their creative menu includes soups, ceviche, seafood pasta entrées, fish and chips, their one-of-a-kind red snapper burger, and a range of homemade desserts. Duke’s extensive choice of cocktails and beers pair excellently with their menu.

Repeat customers will notice that Duke’s menu is constantly growing and evolving. They recently launched a new brunch

36 epicurevietnam

menu, available all day on Saturdays and Sundays. The lobster and crab benedicts are the real standouts here, and they go perfectly with one of Duke’s signature Bloody Marys. The newest addition to their menu, a grilled seafood platter featuring Canadian lobster with cheese, baked oysters, and garlic-butter clams is well worth a try too.

Thao Dien’s restaurant scene has been flourishing in recent years, especially in the post-lockdown era. Duke’s is a welcome addition to the scene as one of the few places in town to enjoy truly fresh, high quality oysters.

63 Xuan Thuy, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City T: +84 796 309 252 | E: thaodien@dukes-oysterbar.vn

LA POISSONNERIE

Seafood with a Distinctly French Flair Modest and unassuming from the outside, one step through the doors of La Poissonnerie, meaning “The Fishmonger Shop” in English, reveals a business that is dedicated to and passionate about fresh seafood. Founded in 2014 by Sybile and Hervé Blanes, La Poissonnerie has established itself as Saigon’s preeminent purveyor of high quality seafood.

L

a Poissonnerie, or “the fishmonger” in English, is a one-stop seafood shop. Their two branches, located in Thao Dien and District 1, offer a bounty of fresh-caught seafood such as oysters, mussels, scallops, seabass, salmon, shrimps, lobster and much more. La Poissonnerie is Vietnam’s exclusive supplier of some of the finest caviar brands, including Dom Petroff, Sturia, and Kaluga Queen, the largest producer of caviar in the world. Their homemade smoked fish, such as salmon and mackerel, is smoked using the traditional Scandinavian method.

While the seafood shop is enough to entice any seafood lover, the restaurant is worthy of praise in its own right. A diverse offering of seafood platters, including build-your-own options, are just the start. Main courses include linguini, pan-seared scallops, sole filets, and lobster thermidor. Another highlight of the menu is La Poissonnerie’s signature dish: bouillabaisse, a hearty fish stew originating in the port city of Marseille. On Fridays only, La Poissonnerie serves its “grand aioli,” a platterstyle meal featuring cod, shellfish, fresh vegetables, and a garlicky aioli sauce for which the dish is named.

Unique dining experiences are to be had at the restaurants as well. Diners can select a fresh seafood offering in the shop and take a seat in the restaurant as the chef prepares their meal.

The District 1 branch has just unveiled a new VIP room, where guests can choose from one of several curated set menus and watch as the chef prepares the meal right in front of their eyes.

La Poissonnerie’s seafood expertise doesn’t end with its retail shops and restaurants. They are a major player in the hospitality industry, supplying hotels and larger restaurants throughout Vietnam with the highest quality seafood available in the region.

Whether it’s retail or dining, La Poissonnerie is undoubtedly the place to go in Saigon for the freshest seafood.

Thao Dien 39 Thao Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City T: +84 909 677 130 | E: hcmc.tdd2.shop@lapoissonnerie.vn Hai Bai Trung 51 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City T: +84 909 637 132 | E: hcmc.hbtd1.shop@lapoissonnerie.vn

epicurevietnam 37

GOURMET INSIDER

BLACK COW A Haven of Sukiyaki

While the indulgent dish is still on the menu, the restaurant is now positioning itself as a modern sukiyaki and shabu-shabu restaurant that focuses on the best ingredients, whatever the season.

B

lack Cow has made a name for itself for being “that place with the ridiculously luxurious rice bowl”. What that refers to is the Signature Sukiyaki Don ‘All in One’, which is comprised of A5 Wagyu beef, uni, glazed foie gras, caviar, black truffle, and an onsen egg. For its current Winter Menu, which runs until the end of the month, expect gloriously marbled beef served alongside seafood at its prime (thanks to higher fat content during the winter months), as well as flawless seasonal vegetables. At Black Cow, the sukiyaki and shabu-shabu sets (choose between A5 Wagyu beef or A5 Hida-gyu beef) are prepared tableside, ensuring proper presentation and preparation, and complemented with dessert and optional add-ons.

Visit Black Cow at 26 Beach Road, #B1-20, South Beach Avenue, Tel: 6386 6720

38 epicurevietnam

FIRANGI SUPERSTAR Distinct Indian Flavours

A visit to Firangi Superstar, the newest hotspot on Craig Road, is almost like stepping into the set of Wes Anderson’s The Darjeeling Limited, a hyper-stylized film that follows three brothers on a journey across India’s colorful landscape.

A

t Firangi Superstar, the dining area is divided into four intricately designed rooms — Officer’s Club, Old Railway, Elephant Palace, and Jungle Lodge — that add an element of whimsy to an almost faultless dining experience. The food, best described as Modern Indian, takes on unexpected forms in the hands of Chef Thiru Gunasakaran. Distinct Indian flavors are drawn from meals enjoyed during his childhood, while the dramatic execution is a result of his Western culinary background. The ‘Tiny Plates, Big Tastes’ portion of the menu exemplifies this best, with dishes both familiar yet new like the spice-forward Beirut Bhatura, This Is Not Aloo Gobi, and Prata Waffle??? — a playful take on prata as a breakfast dish that’s

accompanied by Madras-style fried chicken, butter chicken sauce, and jaggery syrup. As for mains, opt for the Salvador Thali, which is a vegetarian dish that features pumpkin steeped in a sambhar marinade, which is then roasted and charred in the tandoor. It is then smothered with lime pickle, fried salted chili flakes, quinoa, and pumpkin seeds. As for a meat option, the Indian Saddle is a personal favorite – tender lamb porterhouse marinated in spiced yoghurt and then charred in a tandoor. It is accompanied by an Indian spiced chermoula and confit garlic sauce, and pairs well with the Firangi Naan Basket.

Visit Firangi Superstar at 20 Craig Road, #01-03, Tel: 6304 3022

epicurevietnam 39

MIRAZUR

From Côte d'Azur with Love

T

A meal at the Mirazur pop-up in Singapore is one that is met with anticipation because at its home turf in Menton, France.

he restaurant is the recipient of 3 Michelin stars and has the distinction of being “The Best Restaurant in the World” — a title bestowed by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. At a time where leisure travel is close to impossible and enjoying a meal at Mirazur in France is but a dream for now, snagging a coveted seat at the Singapore popup is almost like winning the culinary lottery. Each visit also proves to be an element of surprise: In place of menus, diners are presented a theme for the week, such as Leaves, Flowers, Roots, and Fruits, highlighting ingredients at their best according the different phases of the moon. On my visit, I enjoyed the Flowers menu, which proved to be a multi-sensorial experience full of color, imagination, and of course, flavor. The meal began with the distinct flavor of rose in the Rose, Gamberoni, and Rhubarb dish, followed by the subtle earthiness of saffron in the Saffron, Mussels, and Beetroot course.

The Capers Tart and Artichoke is a display of exceptional technique where 300 caper petals are placed above a savory artichoke puree and a parmigiano reggiano disk. This was followed by the Banana Flower with Trout Roe, where the inherent bitterness of the banana flower was complemented by a tart sudachi lime sauce with spring onion and celeriac. For the meat course, veal is presented two ways: A tender slice of veal is served alongside meadowsweet flowers sauce and matcha oil, as well as a veal sweetbread and clam ragu with apple and fennel to help cut back on the richness.

Visit Mirazur at 31 Bukit Pasoh Road. mandala.club/mirazur.fr

40 epicurevietnam

CASA BY REMY LEFEVRE Woodfire Gastronomy in Homely Setting

The idea of home was a little blurry for Chef Remy Lefebvre, who spent over two decades shuttling between places like Africa, France, Mexico, Spain, the Middle East, India, Hong Kong, the Caribbean, and finally, Singapore.

T

oday, you could say that he has found a slice of it with the recent opening of Casa Restaurant, which boasts contemporary woodfire gastronomy in a homely, yet elegant setting. Casa is, in a way, a microcosm of Chef Lefebvre’s journey on a plate, taking inspiration from the various places he was based in at one point. Here, the season’s choice offerings, whether from the land or from the sea, are the main stars and are transformed through the culinary techniques Chef Lefebvre has picked up on his journeys. For example, the Blue Mussels dish is his take on chawanmushi, where the coconut cream custard is dotted with fresh seafood like blue mussels, smoked eel, seasonal peaches, and Madras curry from India.

At Casa, something as humble as the egg is transformed into the Perfect Egg, where an expertly cooked egg with wobbly whites and a runny yolk is accompanied by wild pepper from Madagascar, Thai basil salsa verde, charcoal-cooked razor clams, and sweet corn. Meanwhile, Chef Lefebvre’s expert handling of fish is seen the Aged Rock Bass dish, which is first aged for seven days in a chiller. Shio koji is then brushed on the skin of the fish lending it flavor and a crisp texture once it’s grilled, and then served with lemon puree, sauce vierge, and sauteed kampot rice with sofrito.

Visit Casa Restaurant 30 Victoria Street, CHIJMES, #01-20. Tel: 9722 8171

epicurevietnam 41

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

Hoiana Premier Rewards

EXPERIENCE THE NEW HEIGHTS OF LUXURY

Nestled within a picturesque shoreline, just south of UNESCO World Heritage Site Hoi An, amid Central Vietnam’s Quảng Nam Province, lies Hoiana Resort & Golf, a spectacular vacation and recreation destination hub. The 4 kilometer long beachfront complex is a favoured retreat for the discerning Vietnamese and international guest expecting only the very finest in service, amenities, hospitality and quality.

42 epicurevietnam

H

oiana Resort & Golf integrated resort offers more than 1,000 plus luxurious accommodations, 10+ plus dining options serving 12 varieties of delicious international cuisine, a world-class golf course, and a wellness retreat for a sumptuous massage.

Hoiana Resort & Golf is setting new heights for service and recognition in Vietnam with the unveiling of the “There’s always more with Hoiana Premier Rewards” campaign. New and existing Hoiana Premier Rewards members will receive access to exclusive, resort-wide privileges to Stay, Dine, Play, have Fun and Explore everything the Hoiana Resort & Golf has to offer.

The Hoiana Premier Rewards program features four membership tiers: Essential, Prestige, Elite and Infinite. New members are welcome to sign up for free, beginning with the Essential tier, with special membership benefits on dining, hotel stays, golf outings and more. Prestige, Elite and Infinite members are entitled to exclusive membership rates, with the Infinite level ensuring top level privileges, inclusive of uniquely personalised services, activities and experiences. Through curated, and personalized journeys designed for each Infinite member, this highest tier of Hoiana Premier Rewards Program offers unparalleled access to the finest offerings at the resort, with an unparalleled level of care and commitment.

Sign up as a new member, you will instantly receive special access to stay at the luxurious Hoiana Residences. Bask in the comfort of a lavish 1-bedroom residence, where an appointed chef will be on call to design and produce a sumptuous dining experience, second to none. Or, consider indulging in the afternoon Hoiana Art Tea at The Edge. Inspired by traditional Hoi An lanterns, each Hoiana Art Tea set features a rainbow of scrumptious and colourful cakes, artfully hand-crafted in the shape of beautiful lanterns representing the historical city. epicurevietnam 43

Once you begin to build your point portfolio, you may redeem complimentary gifts from their exclusive Hoiana Premier Rewards Gallery. This gallery, available solely to Hoiana Premiere Rewards members, allows access to state-of-the-art tech gadgets, fine and fashion jewellery, bespoke tailored suits and so much more.

For the golf lover, the resort also boasts a magnificent 18-hole golf course, the Hoiana Shores Golf Club, designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. The 71-par links course offers one of the most compelling and competitive golf experiences in South East Asia, challenging players with a fulfilling game. The clubhouse, over 6,000 sq.m. is one of the largest clubhouses in all of Asia, and hosts an extensive suite of facilities. The course was awarded “Best Golf Course in Vietnam” by the Asian Golf Awards 2022 and “Top 10 Best Golf Course in Vietnam 2022” by Vietnam Golf & Leisure Awards and recently placed 15th among the ‘Top 100 Golf Courses in Asia’ in an accolade jointly organized by Golf Travel Korea and Golf Travel China, recognizing excellent golf courses and promoting golf culture across the Asian continent.

4 4 epicurevietnam

A world within itself, the Hoi An region of coastal Vietnam offers limitless opportunities for guests to enjoy a host of fabulous excursions. Whether it be a dip in the ocean, or lounging on a sun bed with a good book and a frozen cocktail, tasting flavorful new dishes and drinks, enjoying the endless bounties of nature, or exploring UNESCO World Heritage Sites of stunning and ancient architecture, guests can find it all within a short distance from the resort. Try a new restaurant or experience Vietnamese street food, wander through a historic home or temple, or have a custom wardrobe expertly tailored to your exact specifications in Hoi An; it’s all easily accessible and within your reach.

Not far from Hoiana is the seaside city of Da Nang, the beauty of My Khe Beach, the stunning Ngu Hanh Son mountains and the world famous Golden Bridge, also coined the Giant Hand Bridge.

The most incredible pedestrian bridge in Vietnam, on the top of

Nui Chua Mountain, Ba Na Hills, Da Nang, the Golden Bridge has contributed to the dreamlike landscapes of Ba Na Hills, making it the must visit tourist destination of the region. Standing on the bridge, you are immersed in a breath-takeing and picturesque panoramic view of puffy clouds, mountains covered in endless green, and the faraway seaside city of Da Nang.

A visit to Hoiana Resort & Golf offers virtually endless possibilities for the most incredible vacation. And, with the addition of its Hoiana Premier Rewards program, the advantages are unparalleled.

Sign up now to become a new Hoiana Premier Rewards member here: www.hoiana.com/hoiana-premier-rewards +84 (0) 235 858 8828 | PremierRewards@hoiana.com Visit hoiana.com for more information

epicurevietnam 45

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

Modern

OASES

Discover new and upcoming St. Regis hotels and resorts that will take your breath away.

BY A. GRAG

46 epicurevietnam

W

hat defines ultra-luxury? It used to be good food, expensive furnishing and doting service. Today, purveyors of modern luxury create enchanting and irreplicable experiences. One such provider is St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, a world-renowned hotel chain under Marriott International that has forged emotional connections with many loyal patrons. St. Regis owns 49 beautifully designed hotels and resorts around the globe, from the snowy peaks of Aspen to the turquoise island paradise of Bora Bora, and is preparing to roll out another 29 properties around the world by 2025.

“Found at the finest addresses across the globe, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts was founded over a century ago in 1904 with the opening of our flagship, The St. Regis New York, by John Jacob Astor IV, a true vanguard with a spirit of innovation,” shares George Fleck, Vice President and Global Brand Leader for St. Regis Hotels & Resorts. “His goal was to create a home away from home for the Astor family’s luminary friends and notable guests visiting from Europe. St. Regis was born in the Gilded Age but continues to define the modern era, celebrating the Astors’ legacy through our iconic architecture, avant-garde design, and cherished rituals and traditions including Afternoon Tea; our signature cocktail, the Bloody Mary, evening champagne sabrage; and an unparalleled level of service, as demonstrated by our St. Regis Butlers.” epicurevietnam 47

NEW PROPERTIES IN BERMUDA, QINGDAO AND BAHIA

While other luxury brands are wavering during these uncertain times, St. Regis welcomed three mesmerising properties in 2021, starting with The St. Regis Bermuda Resort in May 2021, a sprawling, white and blue island property. This colour palette was chosen to complement the resort’s views of the horizon, which stitch together azure skies and clear waters. Comprising 120 guestrooms that include 29 exquisite suites and two- and three-bedroom ultra-luxury residences, the enchanting property is located in St. George’s, a historic town flanked by an immaculate shoreline. The St. Regis Bermuda Resort is just a short walk from picturesque St. Catherine’s Beach, and has its own 18-hole golf course.

The St. Regis Qingdao too made waves when it was unveiled in August 2021. This 233-guest room property is a distinctive, contemporary monolith that pierces the skyline of this trendy and dynamic coastal city. Take a closer look at the meticulous details of St. Regis Qingdao’s elegant interior and you will notice subtle nods to this city’s 6,000-year history.

48 epicurevietnam

In May 2021, The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort reopened to international fanfare. This vaunted tropical sanctuary underwent a $60-million facelift. Shaded by palm trees, its 139 guest rooms and suites are minutes from its sapphire-tinted swimming pool and the North Atlantic Ocean.

MORE TO COME

Next, The St. Regis Kanai Resort will begin welcoming guests in 2022. Nestled in the fabled Mayan Riviera, this spellbinding getaway is designed to offer guests several compelling views of this spectacular locale. Its 124 guest rooms and suites, along with 32 villas with private pools, are built in circular patterns that resemble ripples on the Caribbean coastline.

In 2022, The St. Regis Marsa Arabia Island will open on The Pearl, an iconic reclaimed island in Qatar, and will feature Andalusian and Arabesque details on its interior and exterior.

Inspired by its vivacious host city, The St. Regis Los Cabos Resort will make its debut in 2023. This 120-room and 60-residence property will offer guests easy access to water sports facilities, the popular nightspots of Los Cabos, along with its private golf course and beach club.

In 2024, St. Regis will make its debut in Aruba, the Dominican Republic and Oman – the brand will open the St. Regis Aruba Palm Beach Resort in Aruba, The St. Regis Cap Cana Resort in the Dominican Republic and the St. Regis Al Mouj Resort in Muscat.

The following year, The St. Regis Marrakech Resort is expected to open. Located just outside this storied city in Morocco, this desert rose will sport clean lines and the ochrered of Marrakesh’s city walls. A cool sanctuary in located on the fringe of the sweltering Sahara, The St. Regis Marrakech Resort will offer both authentic cultural excursions that showcase the architecture, artistry and history of Morocco.

“This is a pivotal moment for St. Regis as we expect to nearly double our existing resort portfolio by 2025. Our resorts offer a leisure experience inspired by the glamorous private retreats of St. Regis’ founding family, the Astors, and we cannot wait to bring the brand’s spirit of invention and cherished traditions to some of the world’s most beguiling destinations,” Fleck discloses.

“From Los Cabos to Sanya, and Marrakech to the Riviera Maya, we are thoughtfully expanding the brand while marking a commitment to providing extraordinary resort experiences in the places where we know global luminaries want to travel.” epicurevietnam 49

EPICUREAN LIFEST YLE

Garden

VACATION

Marina Bay Hotel’s green ‘garden in a hotel’ scheme brings fresh vibes into a 34-year-old building.

BY LUO JINGMEI

The view on the bridge toward the reception is now coloured with tree canopy below.

50 epicurevietnam

The lounge areas are made cosy with natural light in Southeast Asia's largest indoor skylit atrium designed by neofuturistic architect John Portman and garden-like surroundings.

A

trium architecture draws the eye upward toward cut outs of shifting sun-cloud, day-night effects. This has been the dramatic feature that hotels like the Marina Mandarin Hotel, designed by famed American architect John Portman, offered guests. A recent S$45-million-dollar renovation by FDAT Architects now turns the focus downward — still toward nature, but the view is now of luxuriant greenery, which injects a bucolic atmosphere into the enclosed building.

The hotel has been rebranded by the Pan Pacific Hotel Group (PPHG) into the PARKROYAL COLLECTION Marina Bay under a new segment that focuses on sustainability and iconic design.

In Singapore, its other property is the headliner PARKROYAL COLLECTION Pickering with its unusual meshing of glass totems atop a lush, wavy podium, while the PARKROYAL COLLECTION Kuala Lumpur is currently under construction. Also designed by FDAT Architects, the latter promises to impress with a 140-meter biophilic skin woven from 78 sky gardens and planters.

In PARKROYAL COLLECTION Marina Bay, greening goes beyond the token potted plant as embellishment. At the base of the hotel’s original soaring atrium anchored by a stepped podium, nature is made the major narrative. Greenery wraps the lower public spaces, punctuated by enlarged swirling, woven timber lounging alcoves resembling birdcages. At the entrance, a 13-meter landscaped wall makes for a spectacular welcome.

The landscaping was conceived by Ramboll Studio Dreiseitl — the international landscape studio behind projects in Singapore, such as the Bishan-Ang Mo Kio Park and Jurong Eco Gardens.

Timber screen, backed by lush trees and planting, soften the hard edge of the existing stepped walls.

epicurevietnam 51

Botanical views now accompany Orchidea - a suspended floral sculpture installed in 1986 by famed American wire sculptor Richard Lippold.

Donovan Soon, a director and co-founder of FDAT Architects, is no stranger to the trending eco hotel model, having worked on the PARKROYAL COLLECTION Pickering while at WOHA Architects prior to coming out on his own. Renovating rather than demolishing the hotel is itself a strong environmental gesture.

“One of the tenets of sustainability is not to create unnecessary waste; this applies to buildings as well as plastic bags. Eminent engineer Dr. Hossein Rezai-Jorabi – the founding principal and director of the design engineering consultancy Web Structures — highlights that the demolition of a typical high-rise building emits 51,300 tons of carbon dioxide, which is equivalent to wiping out 10,000 hectares of forests (or 8.7 million trees) — an area larger than all of Singapore’s nature reserves,” Soon comments.

Soon and his team knit together old and new parts in refreshing the dated building. The characteristic stepped volumes at the atrium’s base were repurposed into planters and clad with lightweight timber screens. Guests entering the hotel see six-meter-tall trees amid ample landscaping, which are reencountered as canopy as they step up to the raised lobby and cross the bridge to the reception area. Features like the birdcage pavilion whose complex twists were conceived with parametric design technology gives the atrium’s grandiose scale more human touch points. “The garden concept works really well in the context. The pavilions create delight and focal points within the amorphous space. The abundant foliage helps soften the large indoor spaces,” describes Soon.

52 epicurevietnam

'Birdcage' pavilions nestle among the 2,400 plants, trees, shrubs and groundcover like birds nests.

The hotel’s F&B destinations were also redesigned according to the theme. Glass walls express them as glasshouses at the atrium’s perimeter, letting light in while allowing diners to “see and be seen in the lush atrium garden setting,” says Soon. Peach Blossoms, led by award-winning Chef Edward Chong reinvents traditional Chinese cuisine with a light touch, complemented by light wood elements including a wavy entrance ceiling feature.

New all-day-dining restaurant Peppermint offers farm-to-table dishes in an open-plan space that extends to a terrace where an urban farm grows herbs, edible flowers and vegetables for garnishes, aromatics and ingredients in food and drinks. This and other gestures, such as supplying guestrooms with glass bottles and filtered water instead of plastic bottles of water, as well as employing a food digester to turn food waste into water for gardening, points to the hotel’s dedication to long-term sustainable practices.

In the 583 guestrooms and suites, timber is suitably employed.

A timber-clad alcove in some of the guestrooms draws focus to views of Marina Bay, the Padang or city area. FDAT Architects’

custom-designed furniture features have curves that soften surfaces and corners. “Work desks are expressed as horizontal elements, table legs are rounded elements that extend upward to become task lamps. Wardrobes are architectural volumes with timber trellis that float above the door,” says Soon on the pieces’ tectonic expressions.

Hotels have to be refurbished every now and then, but such exercises should go beyond mere beautification. It is a chance to renew perceptions and create unique memories for guests. “In today’s crowded market place, a strong brand message is essential,” affirms Soon. “In hotels, it comes down to the experience — from the big picture down to the details. A relationship with nature is very important — psychologically, as well as environmentally, especially when our cities are getting increasingly dense and built up. Singapore is the ideal test bed and in fact leads the world in many aspects or urban greenery.

Land scarcity and a forward-looking government has driven more innovative approaches to incorporating greenery, which benefit both users and the city.”

Greeting guests at the entrance is a 13-metre green wall designed

by FDAT Architects mimics nature with cloud and mountain motifs inspired by traditional Chinese landscape painting.

epicurevietnam 53

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

A scene from The Power of the Dog featuring Benedict Cumberbatch and Kodi Smith-McPhee

5 4 epicurevietnam

Southern

CHARM

epicure takes a closer look at New Zealand’s South Island where the award-winning movie, The Power of the Dog, was filmed.

BY EVE TEDJA

Director Jane Campion and asssociate producer Phil Jones during filming

T

he movie The Power of the Dog has already picked up the top two prizes at the British Academy Film Awards: Best Film and Best Director. By the time this feature is published, it may or may not have won Best Picture at the 94th Academy Awards and some of the 11 other awards it was nominated for, including Best Director, Best Actor, Best Supporting Actor, and Best Supporting Actress.

Jane Campion’s slow-burn Western psychological drama already won hearts with its stirring portrayal of Benedict Cumberbatch as a charismatic rancher and his conflicts with his brother’s new wife and her son. Apart from the brilliant directing, solid acting

ensemble, poetic cinematography, and haunting music score, the sweeping landscape successfully steals the show.

Campion decided to shoot the entire movie in New Zealand, swapping 1925 Montana with the unspoiled landscape of the South Island. “On the second day of sniffing around the South Island, which I know well, I was taken to a property near the Hawkdun Range area in Central Otago. I fell in love with it. It is remote, with a 360-degree emptiness and an amazing hill range behind it that felt very atmospheric. Ultimately, shooting in New Zealand wasn’t a compromise; it was the best choice for us,” says Campion. epicurevietnam 55

Lake Dunstan in Central Otago

The rural area was transformed into the set for the Burbank house and ranch. Its vast plains, craggy tussock-clad hills, and sturdy mountain ranges become the visceral backdrop of the movie. The desolation of living in the frontier – with its swirling dust, rumbling cattle drive and sparse wide-open spaces – are intensely captured by Ari Wegner. “Shooting in New Zealand can take a lot of patience and endurance but it is a wonderful experience. It’s a landscape that gives so much,” says the director of photography.

The film was shot in South Island’s Central Otago, Ida Valley and Dunedin. During the 17 weeks of pre-production and 50 days of filming, the movie employed 62 percent of its crew locally, including 27 Kiwi actors. The movie enforces the South Island’s status as the perfect destination for slow travelling – a richer, deeper way to explore the naturally gifted region where outdoor activities, gastronomic adventure and wildlife spotting reign supreme.

Now that New Zealand’s strict border controls will be scrapped earlier than scheduled, and travellers from visa-waiver nations including Singapore will be allowed to enter the country from 1 May, there’s never been a better time to start making vacation plans. Inspired by scenes from The Power of the Dog, here are some of destinations in the South Island that one can add to the bucket list.

56 epicurevietnam

CENTRAL OTAGO

Central Otago is known for its hiking and cycling trails, awardwinning wineries, gold rush history, vibrant arts and culture scene, and dramatic natural landscape. Easily accessible through Queenstown Airport, it is a perfect destination in any season.

Sea lions in Dunedin, Otago

Atop the Queenstown Hill Time Walk trail

Oteake Conservation Park The scenic Burbank Ranch where the drama unfolds takes place within the outstanding landscapes of Oteake Conservation Park.

The flat-topped Hawkdun Range is the park’s centrepiece as well as its surrounding mountainous high country, tussock plateaus, scree slopes, wetlands and shrublands. Here, visitors can find wide range trails and roads for mountain biking or tramping (the New Zealand term for hiking).

Central Otago Touring Route and Queenstown Rent a car and soak up the scenery along a 341-kilometre journey. From the Pacific Ocean to the foot of the Southern Alps, drive through the heart of Central Otago and take in the sights of colourful settlements such as Middlemarch, Ranfurly, Oturehua and Clyde. The drive takes three to five days at a relaxed pace.

Stop by Queenstown where a vibrant gastronomic scene showcases the region’s abundance of fresh ingredients and artisanal products. A seven-course dinner at Amisfield (amisfield.co.nz) is a must. Led by executive chef Vaughan Mabee, the immersive tasting menu epitomises New Zealand’s flavours through creative uses of endemic ingredients. Pair the meal with Amisfield’s award-winning pinot noir and aromatic white wines.

Enjoy the beauty of Central Otago on the Lake Dunstan Trail

epicurevietnam 57

A vibrant gastronomic scene awaits in Central Otago

Named as the highest al fresco eatery in Queenstown, Nest Bar & Kitchen (nestqt.co.nz) will make for a delightful stop.

Give New Zealand’s best selection of gins and tonics a try while marvelling at the views down at Lake Wakatipu.

Eat sustainably at Sherwood (sherwoodqueenstown.nz).

Featuring a seasonal menu where all of its dishes come from its organic kitchen garden, local growers and producers, the restaurant is committed to zero-waste policy. One hundred percent of its organic waste is returned to the kitchen garden and 60 percent of wine is bottled in-house. Sherwood also offers ecodesigned, cosy accommodation with lake and mountain views. Its solid arts and cultural programmes featuring local talents also provide an excellent opportunity to mingle with the locals.

Burn calories by taking the Queenstown Hill Time Walk, a 500-metre climb through pine forest to the summit of Te Tapu-nui. A favourite activity amongst the locals, it offers a spectacular view of the town and the lake. It is also the romantic setting where Kirsten Dunst’s Rose teaches Jesse Plemons’ George how to dance. Adrenaline junkie may make a pilgrimage 58 epicurevietnam

to Queenstown’s Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge where AJ Hackett made it the site of the world’s first commercial public bungy in 1988.

Home of Pinot Noir A trip to Central Otago is incomplete without a winery tour.

Spread across six sub-regions (Cromwell Basin, Bendigo, Bannockburn, Gibbston, Alexandra, and Wanaka), the cool climate and glacially derived soils produce a highly elegant pinot noir and other white wine and pink rosé varietals. Mt Difficulty, Doctors Flat and Bald Hills in Bannockburn are highly regarded for their pinot noirs. However, there are still plenty of excellent vineyards to discover.

TIP

Check out the thrilling, self-guided Pedal 4 Pinot Trail where 15 wineries can be found on the Clyde to Alexandra’s 25-kilometre loop.

IDA VALLEY

Dunedin Railway Station

The Otago Central Rail Trail is a perfect way to visit many of Manuherikia and Ida Valleys’ towns. Geologically blessed with gold, the crumpled hills and mountain ranges were proud witnesses of the gold rush. Quaint mining towns still remain, along with rugged landscapes and close-knit communities in Oturehua, Ranfurly and Ophir. Braeside Station, a fourth generation sheep and cattle farm in Oturehua, is featured in the movie as rural Montana. Experience a farm stay at Braeside Farm Cottage (braeside.co.nz) to see and explore the beauty of Ida Valley.

DUNEDIN

Rich in heritage and wildlife, the city is tucked into a sheltered harbour on the east coast of South Island. Often dubbed the “Edinburgh of the South”, the city proudly showcases its Scots heritage. Its iconic Flemish-Renaissance style Dunedin Railway Station is featured in the movie as Montana’s Herndon Railway Stationwhere George Burbank picks uphis parents. Nearby, the film crew often got their lunch stops at The Corner Store and Perc Café where, according to production designer Grant Major, “bustling, noisy and good strong coffees” can be found.

The Kiwis’ informal greeting is “kia ora”, a Maori expression which means “have life”, and is used to wish someone life and health. It is an apt expression after a two-year travel hiatus. After all, there is hardly a better way to renew one’s zest of life than to visit New Zealand.

GRANT MAJOR, PRODUCTION DESIGNER “We often got our lunch from the Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead Café in Oturehua, and The Maniototo Café in Ranfurly. For dinner, we often went to Blacks Hotel in Ophir. Given the wonderful old gold mining settlements like Naseby and Saint Bathans, both had great pubs where the crew would often rally after the day’s shoot to compare notes and the following day’s strategies over a beer and snacks.”

Ida Valley

epicurevietnam 59

EPICUREAN LIFEST YLE

Time to

REAWAKEN

Reconnect with the healing power of nature at COMO Shambhala Estate.

S

low down and reconnect with your well-being in Bali at COMO Shambhala Estate. After a two-year hiatus, the Estate is now open and ready to welcome you into its healing sanctuary. Set in a verdant nine-hectare Payangan forest and nestled within the confluence of two rivers, the residential-style retreat is the place to improve your holistic well-being. Stroll within the Estate’s ground where aged trees, chirping songs of the forest’s birds, and the flow of natural spring water from The Source at the Estate provide natural healing.

As the flagship of COMO Hotels and Resorts wellness retreat, find extensive range of wellness programmes, a state-of-theart wellness facility and relish the signature COMO Shambhala Cuisine’s menu.

60 epicurevietnam

REST WELL The Estate’s unique five Residences offer a home away from home. Each Residence is made of individually designed four or five suites with pools, lounge areas and pavilions. Alternatively, there are five Retreat Pool Villas which feature one-bedroom units and two-bedroom units. For complete privacy, there are also four Private Villas with two- and three- bedrooms, ensuring that whether you travel solo, as couples, or with family, you will find a suitable accommodation to your needs.

During your stay, a dedicated personal assistant will assist you to get the most of COMO Shambhala Estate’s experience, be it booking a yoga class or customising a cultural excursion. Join a traditional water blessing to purify your mind and soul at The

Source, an ancient holy water spring by the Ayung River, where you will be asked to dress in Balinese attire and guided by a local priest throughout the one-hour ritual.

WELLNESS ACTIVITIES True to the philosophy of “Inspiring Commitment to Lifelong Wellness”, the Estate’s extensive and immersive wellness experience combined with nourishing food and idyllic surroundings is the best gift for your body, mind and soul. The Estate provides individually tailored programmes depending on the goals and needs of each guest, be it the Be Active, Cleanse or Bespoke. A team of experts in nutrition, Ayurveda, yoga, and Pilates will tailor a holistic programme that will help you to make informed life changes that will last beyond your stay.

One such expert is Monica Troiani. With 19 years of international experience and 500 hours of yoga teacher training, she will guide yoga students at all levels.

MASSAGE TREATMENTS Ojas, the main treatment area is where the spa, vitality pool, outdoor hydrotherapy area, steam room, sauna, yoga bale, and relaxation area are located. With curated massage treatments and expertly trained therapists, improve your well-being with the signature 90-minute COMO Shambhala Massage, Deep Tissue Massage or Manual Lymphatic Drainage – a gentle massage designed to aid the body’s natural detoxification process.

NOURISHING FOOD Inspired by the living food tradition, COMO Shambhala Cuisine is all about maintaining the nutritional integrity of the food’s essential enzymes, vitamins and minerals to benefit the body.

Start the day with a panoramic breakfast at Kudus House and nourish your body with COMO Shambhala Cuisine’s dishes at glow that matches your bespoke nutritive requirements.

epicurevietnam 61

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

THE BLACK GOLD OF GASTRONOMY

It is currently a Top gastronomic product that is found almost everywhere, and that is produced all over the world because many investors have created farms in Sturgeon, wild caviar having become very rare.

PHOTOS: CAVIAR DE NEUVIC

BY RENÉ MARRE

62 epicurevietnam

I

n the world, for many centuries, as evidenced by very ancient writings, the origin of Caviar was Iranian and Russian.

Also in Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Moldova, Romania and Ukraine. The most beautiful sturgeons live in the Caspian Sea, Lake Baikal, Black Sea, Danube, Amur River, in the Volga and its multiple rivers, France for the species Sturio, but man has greatly depleted the resource by fishing almost all sturgeon.

Also, these wild origins have been banned from import into Europe since 2008 to try to preserve wildlife. Hence the idea of breeding all over the world. In 2023, farmed caviar has invaded the world of gastronomy to replace the wild. China, Italy, France, USA, Uruguay, Israel, Bulgaria, Romania, Belgium, Madagascar, Saudi Arabia are the largest producers; China is the largest.

Caviar is therefore the eggs of the sturgeon, a primitive fish that existed at the time of the dinosaurs! It is the largest freshwater fish; some wild fish can measure 7 to 8 meters and weigh more than a ton. They live on average 60 to 80 years, sometimes 100 years. But alas there are no longer such big fish, the man equipped with background radar-sonar caught them for profit.

The gastronome has lost a lot. If Caviar remains very good, very fine, it no longer has the same taste qualities as the wild before, no offense to the marketing offices responsible for promoting new brands of Caviar. It is a question of water, food, concentration of fish, fish strains and the young age of fish: Breeding has its economic and environmental rules, long before the judgments of gourmets! epicurevietnam 63

There are almost 27 kinds of sturgeon, species that will give the name to Caviar. The best-known wildlife species currently are: Beluga: A big fish, which gives big eggs, exceptional.

The Almas, very rare, is a white beluga. Very expensive, of an extraordinary finesse and fondant. Oscietra: Small clear eggs Sevruga: A small sturgeon - Sterlet, or Siberian: The smallest fish that provides small quantities - Sturio: It lives in fresh or sea water in the southwest of France - mostly.

The farmed species are mainly European sturgeon, white sturgeon, oscietra, beluga and Baerii which replaces the rare Sturio for the Aquitaine caviar (France).

In general, farmed fish are 50% smaller than wild ones and have a short life! In 2023 Genetics is profoundly disrupted.

64 epicurevietnam

The manufacturing process requires a lot of skill; Once the belly of the fish is opened, we act with delicacy to separate the grains and salt them.

There is fresh caviar, but also a lot of sterilized for commercial reasons. Fresh Caviar must be consumed within a maximum of one month, it must be kept cold. Sterilized caviar can be kept from 6 months to 2 years. Open, it must be eaten within 3 days.

Sterilized caviar is of little interest given its high price.

Sterilization makes him lose a lot in terms of flavors and its "fondant-crunchy".

Caviar can be used in many ways for many recipes or simply enjoyed plain. In this case it is often accompanied by a good Champagne, a Vodka, an Aquavit served very cold. Also pairing well with a real dry white like Chablis, Muscadet Cru, Tursan or Riesling d'Alsace.

A few grains of caviar on an oyster, on the back of a fish fillet, will give nobility, elegance, to your dish. Caviar pairing perfectly with a poached egg, scrambled or boiled eggs, a potato with crème fraiche.

Every Chef can use Caviar in his recipes: it's up to him to find the right match according to his creativity and talent. epicurevietnam 65

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

STATE OF THE

OCEANS Hailed to be one of the most nutritious foods, our appetite for seafood is running oceans into depletion and extinction of species.

Marine life sustainability depends on us and the choices we make with our forks from within our own kitchens.

BY PRIYANKA ELHENCE

66 epicurevietnam

A

ccording to the latest edition of the United Nations Fisheries & Agriculture Organisation's (FAO) The State of World Fisheries and Aquaculture 2020 report, overfishing has increased from 33.1 percent in 2018 to 34.2 percent currently, resulting in approximately 90 percent of the world’s fish stocks now fully fished or overfished. This is coupled with the complexities of the ongoing pandemic, which despite not having directly affected any species of seafood, has had a catastrophic effect on fisheries and aquaculture food systems worldwide. More specifically, seafood supply chains from fishing and aquaculture production, to processing, transport, and wholesale and retail marketing are all bearing the brunt of Covid-19, resulting in complex sustainability issues.

Seafood remains highly sought after due to its health benefits, as it is an essential source of highquality protein, micronutrients (selenium, iodine and zinc), and omega-3 fatty acids. As seafood is also low in calories, total fat and saturated fat, numerous studies have shown that a healthy weekly consumption of it can decrease the risk of heart attacks, strokes, obesity and hypertension. Completing the trilogy of benefits is the fact that these aquatic organisms also provide essential nutrients for developing infants and children, especially in low-income food-deficit countries (currently amassing to approximately one billion people), where diets are heavily reliant on fish for protein.

Bursting with so many health benefits, it’s no surprise that we have reached the point of overfishing and collapsing marine ecosystems. The issue of sustainability is a serious one affecting aquatic life.

As the global population continues to grow, seafood plays an increasingly important role as a sustainable and healthy protein source.

Science-based international non-profit organisation and certification schemes such as the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) ensures sustainable fish populations, conservation of habitats and the general marine environment, while global conservation organisation Ocean Wise are examples of organisations committed to tackling the issue of marine sustainability. By recognising and rewarding efforts to protect oceans and safeguard seafood supplies for the future, their end goal is helping consumers make wiser choices, which will hopefully subsequently improve future ocean health.

NUTRITION AND HEALTH BENEFITS OF SEAFOOD Seafood is a source of complete protein, containing enough of the essential amino acids for healthy growth and optimal foetal development. Unlike red meat and poultry, seafood protein is easier to digest since there is less connective tissue and muscle in fish.

Seafood is one of the only food source of vitamin D, which promotes healthy bone growth, calcium absorption, and boosts immune system efficiency and cell growth. Fish is also a natural source of vitamin A (helps protect vision, boost immune systems and healthy skin), and B-complex vitamins (associated with energy production, metabolism, concentration and healthy development of the nervous system).

Fatty fish such as salmon, trout, sardines, herring, mackerel, tuna and oysters are very high in omega-3 fatty acids (DHA & EPA). Our bodies don't produce omega-3 fatty acids naturally, but they are essential for healthy development and myriad health conditions such as a healthy heart, low blood pressure, improved cognitive function, reduced risk of strokes, heart attacks, depression, ADHD, Alzheimer’s disease, dementia, diabetes, metabolic syndrome and arthritis.

Most fish and shellfish contain less than five percent total fat, and even the fattiest fish, such as mackerel and king salmon, have no more than 15 percent fat.

Seafood is a good source of minerals such as selenium, zinc, calcium, iodine and iron. Selenium is a potent antioxidant that protects against cell damage and counters the negative effects of mercury. Zinc is needed for cell growth and immune system health. Iodine helps maintain thyroid gland function, while iron is important in red blood cell production. Small fish eaten whole, such as sardines and anchovies, are an important source of calcium needed for bone development.

Selenium, iodine and the omega-3 fatty acid DHA are critical nutrients required during pregnancy and are optimal for development of the baby’s organs, brain and eyes.

WHAT DOES ‘SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD’ MEAN? Sustainable seafood is seafood that is caught or farmed in a way that ensures the long-term health and stability of that species, with minimal environmental and social impact to the greater marine ecosystem. This conscious aquaculture sourcing takes into account the social and economic impacts on the communities from which the seafood is sourced; prevents overfishing; limits damage to marine or aquatic habitats; and ensures limited bycatch on non-targeted and endangered species.

epicurevietnam 67

MSC-certified New Zealand Rockling Fish with avocado by executive chef Shannon Batten, Hilton Singapore

HELP OCEAN HEALTH BY MAKING MORE SUSTAINABLE CHOICES Think about the carbon footprint of seafood.

The seafood industry also has a substantial carbon footprint due to transportation, processing, packaging and refrigeration factors. Buying locally sustainable seafood helps mitigate this carbon footprint, with the added benefit of supporting local fishermen and businesses. Wild fish often have a relatively small climate footprint, while small oily fish such as anchovies, herrings, sardines and molluscs have a lower carbon footprint than poultry.

Choose seafood with the MSC blue fish tick By choosing seafood with the blue fish tick, consumers are incentivising fisheries, supporting livelihoods and food security while keeping our oceans resilient and vibrant. The MSC label is available in more than 100 countries across over 40,000 products, on anything from pickled herring to luxury caviar, to suit every budget.

Know where your fish comes from Ask your chef or fish supplier how the fish was farmed and where it’s from. If the species is at risk of being overfished, choose something else more sustainable For instance, most scallops are caught using trawlers or dredges. Opt for a more sustainable variety such as hand-dived scallops that have almost zero impact on the ocean and other fish.

Commit to fin-to-tail cooking Sustainability is not only about how fish are caught, it’s also about minimising waste and making maximum use of the fish. Fish head curry, dry-aged fish, fish eye chips, fish foie gras are just some of the ways chefs take fish further.

Choose seafood species lower on the food chain To lower the impact of your seafood choices, prioritise species that are a food source for other animals, such as oysters, mussels, clams, sea urchins, domestic tilapia and sardines. Since they reproduce faster than other fish, these species already tend to be more sustainable and are also relatively cheaper compared to other types of sustainable seafood.

Cook a sustainable fish that you aren’t familiar with Step out of your comfort zone and cook something new rather than the same fishes you’re used to. Tinned, sustainable fish is another healthy alternative for traceable seafood from ocean to plate with minimal environmental impact, or take advantage of ‘Fish to your door’ schemes offered by responsible brands such as Kühlbarra.

68 epicurevietnam

Says Anne Gabriel, programme director, Oceania and Singapore, MSC, “Singapore and the Asian region are highly imperative in meeting MSC’s vision in keeping our oceans healthy. Asia is the world’s largest seafood producer and consumer, with China and Japan being the two largest seafood markets by value. People in these countries also tend to eat a far greater diversity of species than consumers in other parts of the world. As more companies and consumers in these regions demand sustainable seafood, they send a strong message to fisheries to continue their commitment towards sustainability.

Some of these have motivated recent developments such as the first certified squid and octopus fisheries, sea cucumber, as well as yellowfin and blue fin tuna. In Singapore, international hotel chains like Grand Hyatt and Hilton have been tremendous supporters of the sustainable seafood movement.”

The MSC label also gives retailers and supply chain companies the opportunity to play their part in fighting overfishing and safeguarding the future of our oceans. By committing to sourcing MSC certified seafood, companies can help achieve sustainable development goals such as end overfishing, restore fish stocks, protect marine ecosystems and eliminate IUU (illegal, unreported and unregulated) fishing.

Singapore-based aquaculture firm Barramundi Asia is doing its part in attaining greater global food security by growing barramundi ethically, efficiently and sustainably, sold through its Kühlbarra brand. Says Tan Ying Quan, the firm’s senior business development manager, “Our premium Kühlbarra barramundi are fed the highest-quality fish food that is certified to be sustainable and traceable. Every batch can be traced to the exact percentages of the various fish, plant proteins

and naturally sourced oils included in the food.” The proteins come from sustainably sourced fish meal and a variety of plant proteins such as canola and lupines. The oils are sourced from temperate fish, ensuring our fish have high levels of healthy polyunsaturated fatty acids such as omega-3 and omega-6. “It’s simple. Better food equates to healthier and better-tasting fish.”

Tan also added that they are considering alternative plant-based sources such as algae and soy for feeding the fish in an effort to further reduce the footprint created by using fish to feed fish.

“Despite being sustainable and environmentally friendly, the feed is currently quite expensive, so economies of scale need to be created before the feed is affordable for more fish farmers to use.” It’s an unfortunate catch-22 situation.

Malaysian-based science and tech giant Ecolex Group Sdn Bhd’s marketing & communications manager Anushia

Shanmugaraj similarly highlights two vicious circles in the fishing and seafood industry affecting sustainability. “The first is that overfishing decreases fish biodiversity and affects the aqueous ecosystem. Low biodiversity means lower fishing.

And secondly, rearing the aquaculture industry produces a lot of waste and pollution in the oceans, thus also contributing to decreased fish populations.”

“To break the vicious circle, we need to find a sustainable alternative protein to replace fishmeal, while simultaneously improving the feed conversion rate to enhance productivity and decrease waste output,” she concurs.

Adds Josh Chiu, technology leader, Ecolex Animal Nutrition, "We need to find a sustainable alternative protein to replace fishmeal, while simultaneously improving the feed conversion rate to enhance productivity and decrease waste output."

epicurevietnam 69

However, Shanmugaraj says that there are still other issues affecting sustainability. For instance, areas such as supply chain, from production through processing, distribution, retailing, home food preparation and waste, plays a significant part in the food ecology and global food systems, which directly contribute to climate-changing greenhouse gas emissions. The problem is that although many companies are aware of these impacts, they are also facing other challenges such as the increasing need for food security, ensuring quality of nutrition in food, and ensuring an adequate supply of food to meet the daily needs of an evergrowing global population.

“In recent years, we definitely see an increase in responsible purchasing. Consumers today are aware that their purchasing behaviours dictate the level of environmental protection we as a community contribute and how food consumption has a larger global impact. Consumers are increasingly demanding more green products and are willing to pay a little more for them. As more awareness campaigns are made, consumers are becoming more educated on the possible long-term effects if changes are not made now. Consumers generally do have a positive attitude towards sustainable and green products, as long as they are affordable.”

70 epicurevietnam

Singapore Aquaculture Technologies (SAT) Pte Ltd, Singapore's first AI-enabled smart fish farm, is a subsidiary of Wintershine, a locally-based sustainable aquaculture nutrition & healthcare company. Says Dr. Dirk Eichelberger, director SAT, “We are on a quest to find renewable and sustainable sources of protein and oil, for food and energy, using micro-algae as feedstock. Farming fish requires alternative feed sources, ideally based on plant proteins and not fishmeal. Micro-algae can deliver lipids (Omega 3, 6 and 9) and proteins as feed, feed ingredients or feed supplements, so algae cultivation and fish farming can go hand in hand. The ultimate question in farming sustainability is where the feed comes from.”

Eichelberger elaborates further by saying that their technology-supported aquaculture allows for more complex solutions to help with the transformation of the fishing industry, thanks to economically-justified technology; and fresher products with better taste and texture ethically farmed and harvested from good quality, sustainably produced feed (without antibiotics and GMOs, in a stress-free, cold chain environment for the fish). SAT’s sustainable seafood brand Blu~CURRENT is available at Redmart, Sasha’s Fine Foods, Straits Market and in several top restaurants across the island.

“The current pandemic has escalated the need for more local food production, and less dependency on global supply chains.

We are one of the frontrunners for Singapore’s call for 30 by 30,” adds Eichelberger.

Home-grown Greenwood Fish Market has been providing consumers with sustainably sourced seafood for the past 20 years.

“Some of our stocks include wild Alaskan salmon, wild-caught fishes from New Zealand, Netherlands, and other countries that already have strict fishing limits to keep it sustainable for future generations. Oysters and mussels are cultured, with fresh fishes being wild-caught within sustainable, legal limits by the exporting country. Furthermore, most of our suppliers are personal friends, so we know that they’re trustworthy,” says chef-owner Alan Lee. Lee also agrees that attitudes are definitely shifting in favour of sustainability as businesses and customers are increasingly taking ownership and responsibility of safeguarding the future of seafood. However, such products demand a higher price, as balancing food costs whilst maintaining the business's price point is a prominent challenge. “Personally, we aren’t facing any new issue since we have always been committed to paying a premium for the freshest seafood from trusted suppliers. Our mission has always been to provide customers with value-for-money seafood, so we don't mind smaller profit margins so long as we're serving the best that we can get our hands on,” he says. “Thankfully, our guests have always been discerning and are willing to pay more for good quality seafood, be it at our restaurants or at our retail markets. Over the years, we have observed an increased interest in the origins and sustainability of our products, and our customers are usually willing to pay the slightly premium price which our quality products hold relative to others in the market.” epicurevietnam 7 1

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

TILTING THE SCALES Diving deep into the issue of sustainable seafood, Eve Tedja talks to fisheries, small-scale suppliers and chefs on the importance of reeling in the right fish.

C

heerful jazzy tunes filled the highceilinged, all-white, elegant interior of Kayuputi on a Sunday. As the songstress crooned, the chefs industriously fired up orders in a choreographed manner that always fun to watch. The state-of-the-art open-kitchen showcases the culinary theatre that has always been part of the experience at The St. Regis Bali Resort Sunday Brunch.

Led by executive chef Agung Gede, the Sunday Brunch embodies the Balinese wisdom of Nyegara Gunung, which advocates the use of local ingredients from the mountains and the sea.

Diners responded positively to the dishes served, with incessant picture taking validating their mark of approval. Apart from lobster and crab, fin-to-gill dishes were also highlighted on the menu. From a platter of house-made fish cold cuts and terrine to Soy-glazed Yellow Fin Tuna Cheek, Oxtail Ragout and Crispy Potato Noodle, there were scrumptious fish’s wing, bacon, belly, and marrow to be found.

By using the secondary cuts, Gede and his team also aims to reduce food waste and spotlight the flavours of local seafood.

“In light of the current situation, we have limited access to imported products. Thus, we need to be more innovative in menu creation.

Taking advantage of Indonesia’s rich marine biodiversity, we try to use locally sourced and sustainable seafood produce as much as possible,” explains Gede. Following Marriott International guidelines, the resort is committed to sustainable seafood procurement by working closely with responsible local suppliers. “High quality and legal traceability are two of our requirements, apart from proper transportation and handling,” adds the chef.

72 epicurevietnam

GOING SMALL SCALE

Situated between the Pacific and Indian Oceans, Indonesia is blessed with six million square kilometres of ocean territory.

In 2018, Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) named Indonesia as one of the top three largest capture producers in the world, together with China and Peru. Despite the onslaught of commercial fishing in Southeast Asia, Indonesia’s resilient small-scale fishing industry is still dominating the market with their catch and are responsible for feeding the nation with 52 percent of all animal-based protein in the Indonesian diet.

Apart from providing livelihoods for the coastal community, the small-scale fishing industry plays an important role in national food security. One can visit any coastal region in Indonesia and find traditional and often, colourful wooden fishing boats. By definition, small-scale fishing boat is no bigger than 10 gross tonnage, in reference to the ship’s overall internal volume. But, this industry flourishes not without challenge.

Established in 2013, MDPI (Yayasan Masyarakat dan Perikanan Indonesia) is an independent foundation focused on implementing responsible and sustainable fishery activity while providing assistance for the conservation of fishery resources and the ecosystem in Indonesia. The foundation closely works with small-scale artisanal fisheries in the Moluccas, North and South Sulawesi, as well as East and West Nusa Tenggara. “We have a massive number of small-scale fishing communities but they are often located in remote areas, far from market access with very limited landing facilities, and are not well organised.

These caused problems with quality, supply and pricing. More often than not, the buyers are the ones that set the price,” states Saut Tampubolon, MDPI’s Fisheries Policy Advisor.

Despite these challenges, the Bali-based foundation has been dedicated to data collection and cross-institutional collaboration as well as utilising technology for tracing, creating harvest strategies, and opening up international markets for small-scale fisheries. Tampubolon adds: “Seafood produce is only sustainable when it benefits these three aspects: ecology, social system and economy. What is the environmental impact of commercial fishing? Are small-scale fisheries able to meet demand and guarantee food security? Are the livelihoods of fishermen and the coastal communities guaranteed? These are the parameters.”

These parameters must be considered in making informed procurement decisions. “The sourcing power really does rest with the F&B industry. By not asking where the fish is sourced and by what methods, broader sustainability in the F&B sector will not happen. There are a handful of first-mover restaurants and suppliers that are deeply committed to fishing sustainability and the well-being of fisheries. Outside of that, ask suppliers what their sourcing practices are, adapt menus to the seasonality of fishes, and educate consumers on why certain fish are or are not on the menu,” says Tampubolon. epicurevietnam 73

A HAVEN FOR MARINE LIFE

Meanwhile, in Senggigi, Lombok, an Italianowned small-scale supplier has been industriously providing high-end restaurants in Bali, Jakarta and Singapore with premium seafood. Milito Bruno started PT. Liveshell Indonesia in 2010 because he couldn’t understand why chefs were importing seafood while they live in an archipelago of 17,000 islands and outstanding marine biodiversity.

“Indonesia is part of the coral triangle region, the richest marine ecosystem in the world. We have endemic species that can be found nowhere else in the world. Why would chefs want to get seafood from elsewhere?”

He found answers in commercial fishing practices which focused more on quantity rather than quality. Vessels owned by big companies harvested their fish with longline fishing, casting a net that can runs up to 170 kilometres with 3,000 baited hooks, supplying the world’s ravenous demand for seafood. Fish caught in this way do not meet the high-end restaurant’s standard. This method is also often deemed as an unsustainable practice because of the bycatch, unnecessary killing of other marine animals as well as young fish of the target species, which further depletes the stock of fish in the ocean.

“Instead, we work with local fishermen around Lombok and Sumbawa. There are about 70 small boats that go fishing every day, using the traditional linecaught fishing method. We’ve trained the fishermen to follow specific standards on handling and storing.

Apart from small fish such as sardines, mackerel and red mullets which are caught with small nets, our fish are line-caught,” explains Bruno. PT. Liveshell Indonesia supplies Michelin-starred restaurants in Singapore with sashimi grade fish within 48 hours of its catch.

A variety of seafood such as fish, seaweed, crustaceans, mollusks, and sea urchins are available to chefs who source for sustainable seafood. “There are plenty of fish that are still rarely served in our regional restaurants. Instead of working with just four or five kinds of fish, I would like to see chefs experiment and feature different fish like jobfish, sea perch, ruby snapper, and emperor fish on their menus,” says Bruno excitedly. He also hopes that the export of baby lobster is banned because it depletes local stock and causes inflated market prices.

74 e p i c u r e v i e t n a m

BOLD OCEAN FLAVOURS

“At Cuca, we only use what is Indonesian. There is not a single ingredient used that does not grow, swim or walk in Indonesia.

This is the base for everything that we do,” says chef Kevin Cherkas. As the co-founder of Cuca, Cherkas defines Cuca’s offering as inventive comfort food. Freshness and flavour take centre stage at this Jimbaran restaurant.

Having worked at El Bulli and Arzak in Spain, Cherkas is an ingredient-driven chef. “Before we develop our seafood dishes, we begin by talking directly to local fishermen, sustainable fisheries, and NGOs to learn which products are abundant and good for the sustainability of marine life in Indonesia,” explains Cherkas. Working directly with these stakeholders and knowing for a fact that their purchase benefits the small-scale fishing communities is something that Cuca has been especially proud of since its opening in 2012.

This philosophy can be found in one of Cuca’s signature tapas, Black Squid “Risotto”. Inspired by the classic Spanish dish Chipirones en su Tinta, Cherkas wants to recreate this bold flavour by using local squid. He minces the squid to the size of

small rice grains and slowly braises them in a sauce of white wine and tomato, adding vegetable stew and garlic cream, and lastly, garnishing it with popped rice. Cuca’s approach proves that big flavour and commitment to sustainable seafood goes well together. After all, when it comes to seafood, the ocean is the limit.

epicurevietnam 75

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

POWER UP WITH Erick Aponte, Trade Commissioner for PROMPERÚ in SouthEast Asia shares his vision for empowering Asia’s healthconscious agenda with Peru’s native produce.

BY ESTHER FAITH LEW

T

he numbers paint a picture of great diversity. Peru has about 5,000 varieties of potatoes; many are native to the Andes Mountains. It is also a natural pantry of superfoods such as maca, quinoa, kiwicha, camu camu, lucuma and the ever-in-demand cacao, which grows in 10 regions in Peru. The abundance of crops native to Peru are astounding, especially when one takes into consideration the vast terroir of the region, with eight ecosystems in the Andes, not forgetting the biodiversity of the Amazon rainforest.

For Erick Aponte, Trade Commissioner for PROMPERÚ in South- East Asia, it has been his mission to introduce the diversity of agricultural produce to Asia, and he has identified fast-growing trends that have paved the way for Peruvian products. “One of the most important is the worldwide trend towards healthier, thoughtful eating, which has continued to grow over the years. Our production grew right along with this trend as we specialise in superfoods and organic products, with fresh products such as avocados, table grapes and blueberries being our highest demand items, with citrus and mangoes showing great demand increases as well.

As part of the Free Trade Agreement between the governments of Singapore and Peru, Singapore has authorised the import of new fresh produce, and during the first half of 2020, fresh cranberries, pomegranates and asparagus were the leading Peruvian imports. Other popular produce were quinoa, chia seeds, chestnuts, artichokes and jalapeño peppers.

76 epicurevietnam

MEETING DEMAND FOR HEALTH-CONSCIOUS PRODUCTS

Recognising the emphasis on wellness and the conscious choice to seek out nutrient-dense foods, Erick embarked on a campaign to promote Peruvian superfoods. “We are currently collaborating with two retailers in Singapore, Nature’s Superfoods and Zenxin Organic Food, with the aim of promoting and raising consumers’ awareness of the benefits of eating Peruvian superfoods such as quinoa, chia seeds, cocoa beans and powdered ginger, among others. The strategy is to work with each retailer to launch an ‘immunity package’ which includes a range of superfoods that promote the variety of healthy food products from Peru. We are also developing campaigns that focus on healthy snacks and beverages, as well as their future promotion in restaurants,” says Erick.

Erick also shared that the interest in healthier produce has been intensified by the Covid-19 pandemic, and provided the opportunity for Peruvian produce to showcase its superfood appeal. “It has highlighted the importance of health and of maintaining strong immune systems. Our product line-up of superfoods provide nutritional benefits that suit all needs. Our advantage is it’s all from the same source. No other country specialises in such a wide array of products that are so beneficial to the consumer. Superfoods are the easiest for consumers to find and incorporate into their lifestyles. This is true for nearly any market,” Erick stresses.

ASIA’S PASSION FOR PERUVIAN PRODUCTS

Asia currently accounts for nine percent of all Peruvian agrifood exports worldwide; with Malaysia, Taiwan, Thailand, Vietnam and Singapore being the high-potential markets that are growing strongly. Besides interest from distributors and retailers, Erick shared that the growing prominence of Peruvian cuisine has given it valuable airtime in front of diners as well. epicurevietnam 77

“Our gastronomy is consistently rated amongst the best in the world and can provide options for any menu, but many of the products we export are, in large part, not commonly found in our traditional dishes. However, dishes like ceviche are versatile enough to allow for additions that can include many of our superfoods products, even Pisco cocktails provide this same versatility. Chefs specialising in non-Peruvian dishes also find it easy to incorporate our products as well since they are such commonly consumed fruits, vegetables and grains.”

To give Asian consumers a much closer insight into what Peru has to offer, several well-known influencers from Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand recently prepared a number of dishes live using the most representative ingredients from Peruvian cuisine as a common denominator. Peru also took part in Asia Fruit Logistica, the biggest fresh food trade fair in Asia. It featured a show-cooking session by Chef Coco Tomita and bartender Aaron Díaz, the creator of the Carnaval bar that recently came in 21st on the list of “50 Best Bars”. Tomita and Díaz highlighted the culinary use of superfoods such as asparagus, camu camu and cranberries in their creations. For Erick, he has a soft spot for traditional dishes such as ceviche, causa and lomo saltado, and he hopes that Asians will discover the versatility of their flavours in home cooking, or explore creative interpretations in restaurants here.

One of them is OLA Cocina Del Mar, run by owner-chef couple Daniel and Tamara Chevez, which featured a Peruvian menu last month with dishes inspired by superfood ingredients.

78 epicurevietnam

“One thing that Peruvian gastronomy can boast about is its constant evolution over its long history. The cuisine is a fusion of migrant cultures in Peru so long ago right up to present day and it is thanks to a huge pantry of products that Peru offers, like our superfoods that are helping to pave the path to this market,” he adds.

epicurevietnam 79

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

STYLE AND SUBSTANCE Smeg has what you need this holiday season – from fun and fabulous kitchen appliances to cool and sleek coffee machines.

F

orm and function are at the heart of Smeg, boasting appliances and tools that not only perform well, but look great too. This combination of style and substance makes the brand one of the top choices for modern homeowners who are looking to deck their kitchens with quality furnishings, further upheld by high Italian standards.

From the iconic FAB Fridge range that adds instant character to a kitchen to sleek built-in combination ovens, Smeg’s unique and luxurious products have been a mainstay in many kitchens the world over.

80 epicurevietnam

FABULOUSLY ITALIAN

One of the most recognizable collections from Smeg that has earned it a slew of fans is the Dolce & Gabanna range, which proves that food and fashion can exist in the same space. The eye-catching collection boasts an unmistakable Italian flair, with vivid colors and patterns adorning each piece.

Standouts from the Dolce & Gabbana collaboration include the Fab 28 Smeg refrigerator, which features Sicilian iconography like lemons, the trinacria symbol, cart wheels, medieval knights, and battle scenes – all distinctive elements

of the poetic marionette theater and the Sicilian Cart. What’s more, the themes developed for each product are embellished with classic floral motifs.

As for small tabletop appliances, must-haves include the toaster and kettle, which are adorned with playful Sicilian patterns like birds, citrus fruits, prickly pears, and bright red cherries. To finish, the designs are framed in traditional motifs called crocchi. The lively shades of red, yellow, and green contrast well against shiny metal knobs, handles, and spouts, lending each piece a fashionable look.

SLEEK AND SIMPLE

For those who prefer something more streamlined and minimal to go with their modern kitchens, keep an eye out for the BCC02 Fully Automatic Coffee Machine in Full Matte Black, which is launching this month. The special edition piece will surely catch the attention of coffee lovers as it combines easy-to-use features with a chic black aluminium panel and matte black brushed finish.

In addition to looks, the coffee machine boasts an intuitive control panel, while freshly ground coffee is easily accessible in a matter of seconds thanks to the one-touch bean to cup function.

What’s more, the milk frothing/steaming function allows you to enjoy both espresso-based beverages, as well as cappuccinos and lattes.

Smeg Showroom at 5 Straits View, #01-01 The Heart, Marina One Show Gallery or visit smegshop.sg

epicurevietnam 81

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

WHAT’S THE COMPLETE PACKAGE? Growing consumer awareness is changing the way sustainable materials and packaging are being used.

BY ESTHER FAITH LEW

R

ecyclable; biodegradable; compostable. These words are often used on packaging that claim to be made from sustainable materials. But what does it really mean, and how does it impact our environment?

There is more to this than meets the eye. If there are no available consumer collection or composting facilities available that accepts compostable packaging, nothing changes for the better. The term “biodegradable” also misleads consumers into thinking that regardless of where a package is disposed, it will break down within a short period of time. And then there are various recyclable symbols being used, and we assume that a package will be recycled if we place it into the correct bin. But in truth, the question that we have to ask is “can this packaging be recycled in the country that I live in?”

It becomes a matter of waste management, an issue that is causing global concern over plastic pollution. The quest for sustainable disposable food packaging products has driven the use of bioplastic containers. “Bioplastics are great as they’re usually made from sustainable materials but this doesn’t mean they’re easily renewable as the technology and waste management systems still don’t exist everywhere to assist with the degradation or recycling process. Therefore, our goal right now is to push towards a product range that is (almost entirely) paper-based and does not contain any bioplastic, let alone petroleum-based plastic. This will mean that all our products are not only home compostable but also easily recyclable in paper waste bins,” says Seyhan Azak, Managing Director of Affinity Supply Co, a supplier of sustainable plant-based products and packaging made in Indonesia.

Azak explains further on the issue of compostable materials, “Some compostable products on the market don’t have a means of composting in their region; will not degrade in the environment; and some are not even certified as food safe.”

82 epicurevietnam

With the current COVID-19 situation, consumer behaviour has changed, leading to more food deliveries and increased demand for takeaway containers. It is even more important during these times that the right sustainable containers are being used by restaurants. Azak shared that certain products are being adapted for home deliveries; for instance, eco-friendly lids for ice cream cups.

Concerns over food packaging materials have also arisen over COVID-19, and Tetra Pak, a global leader in food processing and packaging solutions, has conducted assessments on the safety and suitability of their products.

“We can confirm that irrespective of the outbreak, our products remain safe for food production,” says Markus Pfanner, VP Sustainability, Tetra Pak. One of the key sustainability concerns that Tetra Pak is addressing is the need to promote a circular economy, which includes eliminating waste and ensuring end-of-life use for packaged products. “As part of our journey towards fully renewable and recyclable packaging, we are continuously exploring nature-based alternatives, helping us shift from high-carbon materials to renewable and responsibly sourced ones,” shares Pfanner.

A typical Tetra Pak carton package comprises 70% paperboard, 25% plastic and 5% aluminium to protect the inside of the package. All these materials are fully recyclable when supported by a local collection infrastructure. Its Tetra Rex® Plant-based package is made with paperboard and sugarcane-based plastic. Most recently, Tetra Pak has become the first company in the food and beverage industry to responsibly source plant-based polymers using the Bonsucro standards for sustainable sugar cane. Bonsucro is a global non-profit organisation created to promote sustainable production, processing and trade of sugar cane in the whole world.

As the world continues to generate about 200 million tonnes of plastic waste annually, with Asia Pacific as the region with the highest plastic consumption, companies are realising the need to aggressively step up sustainable efforts. With increasing consumer awareness, companies are becoming more transparent in reflecting sustainability practices used in packaging, for instance, carbon footprint, end-of-life disposal, plastic-free, renewable material credentials, among other environmental stewardships.

Certification by institutions such as Forest Stewardship Council, Plastic Free Trust Mark and Metal Recycles Forever are increasingly being reflected in product packaging.

Environmental regulations such as the ban on single-use plastic or the Circular Economy Action Plan have also given much momentum to industry efforts. epicurevietnam 83

Azul Beach Club Bali

There is more to Azul Beach Club Bali than stunning sunsets.

The beachfront Tiki bar, restaurant and beach club has been supporting green design and sustainability from the ground-up.

Proudly housed in locally-designed bamboo architecture, the open-air, two-storey, thatch-roofed structure exudes chic and understated ambience. The turquoise-coloured decor enhances its name in a vibrant shade of blue. But, most importantly, it aims to be sustainable.

Although Bali officially bans the usage of single-use plastics (plastic bags, straws and polystyrene) in June 2019, Azul has committed to stop using plastic straws and packaging as far back as three years ago. One can sip Azul’s refreshing Tiki concoctions through a bio-degradable, plant-based eco straw without feeling guilty that it would end up in the landfill. In the kitchen, Executive Chef Sugeng Sulistyono and his team also prioritise fresh and locally sourced produce for its Asian-inspired menu. “Our vegetables are sourced from farms in Bedugul and Plaga. For seafood, our supplier from Jimbaran delivers fresh catch supplies from fishermen. If we have scraps, we make sure they are not going to waste by using them in stocks,” explains the chef.

The same attention for responsible sourcing is observed at Hyatt Regency Bali. The beachfront resort works with Bali Sustainable Seafood, a purveyor of high-quality seafood. The company works closely with small-scale fishing communities in Bali and beyond, supplying seafood produce which are wild8 4 epicurevietnam

caught and harvested using sustainable fishing methods. “Eighty percent of our menu is locally sourced. On top of that, we also implement strict non-plastic packaging in our kitchen,” explains the resort’s Executive Chef Nadine Waechter-Moreno.

At Pizzaria, the resort’s popular alfresco Italian restaurant, one can find tasty Butter Garlic Prawn, served with housemade sourdough bread and Linguine, cooked with a generous serving of clam, calamari and prawn. The resort is actively working with local food producers and artisans to support the local community and to minimise carbon footprint. The attempt to use less plastics in packaging can also be found in the rooms. Guests would find drinking water glass bottles, refillable dispensers, bamboo toothbrush, and paper-packaged amenities in the bathroom.

Meanwhile, Singapore’s two luxurious properties’ commendable commitment to environmental mindfulness are exemplary. In line with Hilton’s global corporate responsibility strategy, Hilton Singapore has become the first hotel in Asia to achieve certifications from Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) and Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) Chain of Custody for its seafood produce’s sustainable sourcing. By ordering from the in-room dining menu or enjoying a serving of Seared MSC Atlantic Scallops with butternut squash puree, pumpkin seeds and basil at Opus Bar & Grill, one can be certain that the seafood produce are either sustainably caught or farmed.

Hilton Singapore

The resort also went so far as to build an on-site vertical garden next to Opus Bar & Grill, constructed as two sets of three-metre-tall, hydraulic-driven vertical stands that are bursting with herbs and vegetables. Using a closed-loop water irrigation system, it is managed by the culinary team who know exactly what is needed to supplement their menu.

“It is important that chefs continue to advocate the importance of protecting the ocean and its marine inhabitants through sustainable sourcing. At Opus, 33 percent of our seafood is eco-labelled and together with our purchasing team, we are constantly on the lookout for sustainably sourced products as soon as they become applicable and available in the local market,” explains executive chef Shannon Batten.

Marine conservation and responsible sourcing are also what drives Chef Marvas Huang in his menu creation. As the chef de cuisine of Ocean Restarurant at Resorts World Sentosa, he consulted with the resort’s Sustainability Committee to create a list of top sustainable ingredients for the menu. Zooming in on artisanal and environmentally responsible fisheries and farms, he managed to create outstanding dishes for the restaurant such

Hyatt Regency Bali

Resorts World Sentosa

as the Drunken “Yumbah” Abalone from Australia with Shao Xing, Wolfberries and Organic Vegetables. “Every seafood item on the menu is sustainably sourced. Be it the MSC-certified Norwegian pink shrimps and Hokkaido’s diver scallops, every item is carefully selected only after we have reviewed their farming, fishing and catching methods as well as their environmental impact,” explains the chef.

Commitment to the environment can also be seen in the resort. Since 2018, the resort has stopped providing plastic straws across its attractions and dining establishments. A gradual phasing out of single-use plastic bottles started in 2019. Now, the resort only uses paper straws when requested by guests. On each floor of Festive Hotel, guests would find newly-installed water stations to refill their provided glass carafes. If one is concerned about the rising usage of takeaway packaging, Malaysian Food Street is trying to provide a solution.

As one of the dining outlets at Resorts World Sentosa, it is now offering takeaway and delivery services served in biodegradable disposables in an on-going attempt to eliminate non-recyclable single-use packaging. epicurevietnam 85

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

CONSUMING CONSCIOUSLY, TOGETHER

Here’s how five homegrown companies are doing their best to reduce food waste and promote sustainability, with help from DBS Foundation’s Local For Good movement.

Pumpkin noodles made with Bambara groundnut by WhatIF Foods

86 epicurevietnam

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ENTO INDUSTRIES, CRUST GROUP, SACHI SOY WINE, WHATIF FOODS, AND EDIBLE GARDEN CITY

BY PRIYANKA ELHENCE

Crust Beer

T

he issue of food waste is global. Think 1.3 billion tonnes, or one third of all food produced going to waste. Here at home, the National Environment Agency (NEA)’s latest numbers indicate that food waste accounts for approximately 12 percent of the total waste generated in Singapore. To put things into perspective, the total amount of food waste generated in 2021 was 817,000 tonnes, a staggering 23 percent increase from the 665,000 tonnes generated in 2020.

Furthermore, food waste and loss contributes significantly to global warming (8 percent of greenhouse gas emissions), translating to roughly four times the emissions of the entire aviation industry. Clichéd, but it’s really food for thought.

Luckily, some local homegrown heroes are trying to tackle this growing issue head-on by creating sustainable food, in partnership with DBS Foundation’s Local For Good. When most people think about sustainable food, they think about the food itself. Is it organic? Local? Fair trade? But sustainable food is so much more than that. It’s about how food is produced, distributed, packaged, and consumed as well as the environmental, social, and economic impact of our choices in the form of food miles, resource usage, and more.

Local For Good seeks to connect consumers to social enterprises, and encourage them to consume consciously. Since this year, the Foundation has been working towards its mission to reduce food waste by empowering local organisations to create a positive impact through their businesses.

Sachi Soy Wine (Lychee & Rose)

The Foundation features enterprises that are improving lives (and the planet) through their businesses. They may offer products and experiences that are innovative and stylish, and provide real solutions to underserved communities and pressing environmental challenges, not only in Singapore but also in wider Asia, for a better future for everyone.

Read on to learn how these companies reduce food waste and be inspired to do your part for the environment.

Ecogrub Dried Black Soldier Fly Larvae by Entro Industries

epicurevietnam 87

ENTO INDUSTRIES: PUTTING BLACK SOLDIER FLIES TO WORK

Ento Industries uses insects – specifically black soldier fly larvae – and technology to redefine traditional practices of organic waste management. By working with food producers, it is able to provide a closed loop solution that is unique to each customer.

Nathaniel Phua, founder and CEO of Ento Industries says, “Using our proprietary systems, we take in most types of food waste and efficiently convert them into sustainable high-value feed and fertilisers that are put back into the food production cycle.”

For instance, the company uses food waste such as surplus bread, sugar, coffee, milk powder and biscuits collected by Tiong Lam Supplies to come up with its special nutritious formulation to breed the flies. The larvae are efficient feeders as they are able to consume any type of organic matter. They are then harvested and turned into animal feed. Even the insect frass (faeces) is used as a nutrient-rich organic fertiliser for plants.

Black soldier fly larvae

But that doesn’t come without its own set of challenges. “The insect industry is nascent and education is currently one of our biggest roadblocks towards the use of insects in food waste treatment. Insects are among the most useful creatures on the planet and they are integral in the regeneration of our earth’s natural resources,” says Phua.

Good Dog Cookies, made in collaboration with Ento Industries

8 8 epicurevietnam

LOOK OUT FOR THESE LOCAL BRANDS AND SUSTAINABLE FOOD PRODUCTS • Crust Group’s Community Brew, made with surplus bread and pineapple peels.

• Citral beer, brewed using lemon myrtle from Gardens by the Bay. • Ento Industries’ Ecogrub X Pawfoo Pet Treats, a nutritious snack for pets that’s protein-packed.

• WhatIF Foods X Foreword Coffee’s Gimme Malt coffee with coffee, Horlicks, honey and plantbased BamNut milk.

• Boxgreen’s chocolate bites which are plantbased and free from additives.

Crust Beers made from surplus bread

CRUST GROUP: UPCYCLING SURPLUS FOOD INTO BEER

Travin Singh, founder and CEO of Crust Group is on a mission.

“My long-term goal is to build a Crust Universe which comprises tackling the beverage industry first, then the food industry, and finally packaging. We want to be able to help shift the ways we manufacture products,” he says.

Singh and his team are passionate food waste fighters who aim to reduce global food loss by one percent by 2030. It sounds like a tall order, but it’s not a lost cause. They drive the upcycled food movement by turning surplus ingredients like bread and fruit peels (especially from their restaurant and hotel partners) into artisan and sustainable Crust beers and Crop non-alcoholic beverages.

Crust also works as a research and development platform to help other companies reduce their food waste, save costs, promote sustainability, as well as provide a co-branded product for them. “It was during the pandemic that we realised we can do so much more than just bread and beer. With the same ideology of saving food waste and loss in mind, we took the bold decision to pivot from a brewing company into a food tech company,” says Singh.

Breaking Bread Ale, Toasted Lager and I Knead An Easy IPA

epicurevietnam 89

Sachi Soy Wine

SACHI SOY WINE: USING BY-PRODUCTS FROM TOFU MANUFACTURING

“We are the world’s first and largest sustainable soy wine producer in Singapore. We use soy whey, the liquid by-product from tofu manufacturing, to create our wines,” says Mayur Singh, founder of The Green Collective in which Sachi is a member brand. The core strategy, Singh elaborates, is to produce more products with the same amount of soybeans. The company is also committed to producing zero carbon emissions for 90 percent of its raw materials by staying strategically near the raw material source.

“It has taken four years to upscale and develop a shelf lifestable product at ambient temperature, but there is still a lessthan-optimum demand as soy whey alcoholic beverages aren’t on most people’s radars,” she says. Despite the challenges, the low calorie (at 70kcal per serving), high antioxidant soy wine has expanded its range and is now available in four flavours – Original, Peach & Oolong, Lychee & Rose, Yuzu and Bergamot.

9 0 epicurevietnam

Sachi Soy Wine (Peach & Oolong)

EDIBLE GARDEN CITY: CHAMPIONING THE “GROW YOUR OWN FOOD” MOVEMENT

Edible Garden City wants to reconnect people with their food sources by creating inclusive farming spaces. “Our vision is to make soil-based urban farming and edible gardening accessible, desirable and inclusive in Singapore, with individuals and organisations adopting it into their daily lives,” says marketing executive Alicia Tan. That’s where the “Grow Your Own Food” movement comes in. To achieve their vision, the company has established three pillars. First, they “foodscape” underutilised spaces in locations such as hotels, malls and schools to design, build, and maintain edible gardens. Second, the farms supply fresh herbs, edible flowers, microgreens and more to restaurants and individuals. “We encourage the use of local plants that grow well in Singapore’s tropical weather such as ulam raja and butterfly pea, integrate them into dishes to elevate their status, and reduce the dependency on imported ingredients.”

Finally, they conduct educational activities such as gardening workshops and nature-based tours. Gardening is not as intimidating as it seems, according to the company. While some have the impression that only large-scale projects make an impact, any small effort counts towards the movement.

Bambara groundnuts

WHATIF FOODS: #BETHEREGENERATION

While sustainability is the key goal for many companies, WhatIF Foods wants to go further. The company, known for its plantbased instant noodles and milk made from bambara groundnut, is building “regenerative value chains literally from the ground-up”.

Using bambara groundnut is an example; not only does it thrive without fertilisers, but it also replenishes the earth it grows on. “This enables us to partner and reconnect with farming communities to grow regenerative crops that are restorative to the environment and to their soils, and consciously create delicious convenient foods,”says Amelia Tan who is in charge of strategic business development at WhatIF Foods. The regeneration story may be a complex one which requires “heavy lifting” in all aspects, especially since many people have only just begun to scratch the surface of sustainability – but make no mistake, it’s a story worth telling.

A tour group exploring Edible Garden City

epicurevietnam 91

COV E R S TO RY

Fabulous Feasts

ODE TO JOY

It’s three times the delight as chefs at InterContinental Singapore reveal their new dishes for the festive season.

BY NIDA SEAH

I

n case you haven’t noticed, Christmas, New Year’s Day and Chinese New Year all fall within the months of December and January. This means it’s a busy time for all, whether you are a frazzled parent buying gifts for loved ones, a workaholic trying to clear year-end projects, or a shop owner targeting deal-hunting customers. The chefs helming at InterContinental Singapore’s restaurants are no different, and are already kicking into high gear in anticipation of guests looking for that perfect family gathering or festive celebration. This season, guests can expect a bold and grand White Gatsby Christmas and a slew of merry feasts and dining offers. Perhaps the most iconic treat of all is the yule log where 92 epicurevietnam

executive pastry chef Desmond Lee and his team present not one but three indulgent variations. Lee says, “I was inspired by the rhyme ‘Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue’ which is said to bring good luck to brides-to-be. As we celebrate the season and welcome the New Year, I decided to incorporate that rhyme to make our festive goodies significant and meaningful.” The signature Bûche de Noel Chocolate Cake represents the “old”; Heritage Chestnut Christmas Log is the “new”, and Signature Forest Cherries Log is based on an old recipe he tweaked to make it his own, hence “borrowed”. The “blue” is InterContinental Singapore’s gift hamper that comes in a Tiffany blue colour.

Christmas is also an important time for chef de cuisine Davide Giacomelli who helms the new Italian restaurant LUCE

by Davide Giacomelli. He brings an authentic Italian dining experience to the table with flavourful dishes such as Halibut alla Puttanesca. “The heart behind Italian cooking is simplicity and the recipe reflects just that – using only the freshest ingredients with precise techniques to draw out the natural flavour of the ingredients,” he explains.

For the festive season, Giacomelli has introduced some of Italy’s best Christmas dishes. Expect a plethora of imported cheese and cold cuts at its Festive Semi-Buffet Lunch and Sunday Champagne Brunch, while classic Italian dishes such as Frittata and Baked Pasta al Forno are stars at the Celebratory Sunday Champagne Brunch.

“The main attraction – and it’s my favourite too – at any Christmas gathering is the variety of roasts,” says Giacomelli.

“At home, my family will prepare pork, beef, chicken and lamb – all Italian Christmas classic meats that are perfect for sharing.

I love it when everyone is gathered at the table, passing plates around to share and raising a toast to a good time.” Inspired by this, he has introduced Spalla d’Agnello al Forno (slowcharred lamb shoulder with mustard and rosemary), Chicken alla Diavola (roasted corn-fed chicken with Italian herbs and black pepper), and Stufato di Manzo Rustic (traditional Italian beef stew with root vegetables). “Pair these with the unlimited tipples at our Sunday Brunch and enjoy them with live music – it will surely be an experience to remember!” he says.

And of course, what’s an Italian Christmas without pasta and risotto? Giacomelli highlights the Périgord Winter Black Truffle Risotto that will be served at the Sunday Brunch live station. The prized “king of black truffles” is harvested mainly in Italy, Spain and France during the winter season, and is renowned for its distinctive earthy taste.

Over at Man Fu Yuan, a Michelin Guide restaurant, executive Chinese chef Aaron Tan has been busy preparing for the Year of the Rabbit. “The festivities of Chinese New Year have been greatly missed, and I’m so glad that we are able to resume it next year,” says Tan. There will be a luxurious selection of dishes and prosperity prix-fixe menus from 15 December 2022 to 5 February 2023. This includes a 60-inch “Prosperity Rabbit” Yusheng accompanied by a citrusy honey pink guava dressing and granola (in place of crispy crackers); Premium Seafood Bisque with Braised Crab Meat; Pan-seared A5 Wagyu Beef in Mongolian Sauce; Braised South Africa Three-head Abalone with Japanese Spiky Sea Cucumber; and Braised Chinese Ramen With Rock Lobster, Superior Crab Meat And Crab Roe Sauce.

A seasonal item on the menu is Chilled Rock Lobster with Sea Urchin, Yuzu and Plum Dressing. “With the warm weather all year round, this dish would be the ideal perk-me-up. Yuzu and plum are actually a popular combination used in cocktails, and I wanted to experiment it on savoury food,” says Tan. Try it for yourself – the recipe is simple and easy to replicate at home.

Beyond the festivities, more elevated dining and luxury experiences are in the works at the heritage hotel which is fully open and running at full capacity. It has just welcomed two new additions – wine lounge Tenuta by Park90 and Quaich Bar Wanderlust – and is planning four and eight-hand collaborations with top chefs. It plans to be the preferred dining destination in the heart of the city, but we say it already is.

Visit singapore.intercontinental.com for more details.

WIN!

Stand to win a $100 dining voucher at LUCE

by Davide Giacomelli. There’s five vouchers to be won! Look out for the giveaway details on epicure’s Instagram and Facebook pages.

epicurevietnam 93

94 epicurevietnam

Art Direction & Styling Nikki Ho Photography Jasper Yu, assisted by Tang Jun Wen

“For me, this was a natural creation as whenever I think of Christmas, I think of chocolate.”

Location & Recipes InterContinental Singapore Gold Plate Stylist’s own

- EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF DESMOND LEE

BÛCHE DE NOEL CHOCOLATE CAKE SERVES 10–12

PREP TIME 120 min

COOK TIME 15 min

MOIST CHOCOLATE SPONGE 160g + 160g sugar 160g egg yolk 240g egg white 160ml oil 160ml water 120g cake flour 100g cocoa powder 3g baking powder 2g baking soda 1g salt

Add sugar, egg yolk and water into a bowl. Mix well.

Add in cake flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Beat to combine.

In a separate bowl, whip egg white and sugar until stiff peaks to create meringue.

Using a spatula, mix in 1/3 of meringue with cake mixture.

Slowly fold in balance of meringue into cake mix.

Transfer the batter to a 60cm x 40cm baking tray. Bake at 160°C for 15 minutes. Leave out to cool.

CHOCOLATE GANACHE 200g cream 40g sugar 60ml glucose 200g 70% dark chocolate 60g butter Heat cream, sugar and glucose to a boil.

Once glucose mixture is properly combined, add in dark chocolate. Use a hand blender to effectively melt the dark chocolate into the glucose mixture.

Once the chocolate mixture reaches 38°C, add in butter and continue mixing it with a hand blender until all ingredients are properly combined.

CARAMEL GLAZE 600g sugar 620ml cream 310ml milk 52g glucose syrup 442g 40% milk chocolate 16g gelatine sheet

Heat cream, sugar and glucose to a boil.

Once glucose mixture is properly combined, add in milk chocolate. Use a hand blender to effectively melt the milk chocolate into glucose mixture.

Add in gelatine sheet. Keep glaze refrigerated at 28°C. ASSEMBLY Cut the moist chocolate sponge into half (30cm x 40cm).

Spread 500g of chocolate ganache over the surface of the 30cm x 40cm cake sponge.

Gently roll the cake up with the parchment/towel from the long side or length of the cake. Take care to get a tight roll from the beginning and roll up the whole cake.

Keep in freezer for 2 hours for it to take shape.

Remove from freezer and spread the caramel over the log, covering the cut-off ends as well. Ready to serve.

epicurevietnam 95

“The heart behind Italian cooking is simplicity, and the recipe reflects just that.”

- CHEF DE CUISINE DAVIDE GIACOMELLI

HALIBUT ALLA PUTTANESCA SERVES 2

PREP TIME 30 min

COOK TIME 20 min

INGREDIENTS 300g skinless halibut centre fillet 200g ripe Datterino tomatoes, peeled 50ml extra virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic 10g basil 10g parsley 10g chervil 10g chives 20g spring onion 1 pc desalted anchovy fillet 10g Pantelleria capers 10g Taggiasca olives 20ml lobster bisque 1L grape seed oil 300g sea salt Salt and pepper HALIBUT FISH Cover fish fillet with sea salt for 10 minutes.

Remove the salt with a damp cloth and refrigerate the fish for a couple of hours before slicing.

9 6 epicurevietnam

Confit the fish slices in grapeseed oil at 50°C for about 15 minutes.

SAUCE In a separate pan, lightly fry garlic, spring onion and anchovy in extra virgin olive oil, and add peeled cherry tomatoes.

Cook for about 10 minutes.

Finish with capers, olives, lobster bisque, basil, salt and pepper.

ASSEMBLY Plate the dish harmoniously with sauce at the bottom of the plate and fish on top.

Garnish with fresh herbs and lemon zest. Ready to serve.

epicurevietnam 97

9 8 epicurevietnam

“The slightly sour and refreshing flavour of yuzu, together with the mild sweetness of plum, provide the perfect balance to the savoury ingredients.”

- EXECUTIVE CHINESE CHEF AARON TAN

CHILLED ROCK LOBSTER WITH SEA URCHIN, YUZU AND PLUM DRESSING

SERVES 1

PREP TIME 15 min

COOK TIME 10 min

INGREDIENTS 80g Canadian lobster 3g sea urchin 1 yellow dragon fruit 10g pomelo SEASONING 5ml yuzu juice 20ml plum sauce 10ml olive oil INSTRUCTIONS Cut yellow dragon fruit into half. Scoop out the flesh into small balls and place into the refrigerator to chill.

Place the empty dragon fruit shell (dragon fruit bowl) into the refrigerator as well.

Wash and prepare the pomelo.

Set aside.

Boil 1L of water in a pot at 85°C, add in 1 teaspoon of salt and cook the lobster for 8 minutes until cooked.

Remove from boiling water and soak in ice water to cool.

Slice and set aside after cooling.

Combine yuzu juice, plum sauce, and olive oil to make a dressing.

ASSEMBLY On a plate, assemble the dragon fruit bowl and fill it with fruits and sliced lobster.

Drizzle the seasoning.

Top the dish with sea urchin and Kaluga caviar. Ready to serve.

epicurevietnam 99

CHEF MASTERCLASS

THE GLOBAL CONNOISSEUR OF GASTRONOMY

Having counseled some of the largest companies and hospitality groups in the world like Hyatt, Accor, Swissair, Mövenpick, and over 50 Michelin Starred restaurants across Europe and Asia, René Marre is one of F&B’s leading international authorities. A total food and wine devotee, he’s penned numerous books, 200 plus articles for major magazines, and has been the Consultant Advisor for countless Gastronomic Guides We had the chance to chat with Monsieur Marre about his illustrious career in the Culinary Arts, and have him share some astute advice with our readers.

100 epicurevietnam

Please tell us a bit about yourself. Where were you educated?

Who inspired you to pursue a career in Gastronomy?

I am the proud son of a great French Chef, and she was undoubtedly my greatest inspiration. My passion for the Culinary Arts led me to exit an Executive position in Finance in order to devote myself full time to my craft. I studied at the Lenôtre Culinary Arts School near Paris, and then honed my craft under the tutelage of seven Michelin Chefs including Paul Bocuse, Paul Haeberlin, André Pic, Bernard Loiseau and Joel Roubuchon.

Chef Jean Ducloux taught me about the Cuisine specific to Lyon, Chef André Daguin about poultry. To say I was blessed to learn from some of the greatest culinary minds on the planet is an understatement. Today my job is to help Companies to appear in guides, and also to propose restaurant projects to investors.

You are known as one of the leading worldwide experts in Gastronomy. In your opinion, what are the key ingredients necessary to produce sublime food?

The key ingredients are good fresh products and a keen knowhow for preparation. Gastronomy encompasses good dishes eaten on the street, in a bar, or at a reputed restaurant. In Paris, I enjoy a crispy bread sandwich with Brie de Meaux cheese, Tapas served at a bar counter in San Sebastian, a delicious Vietnamese Pho from a street vendor in Hanoi or a fine dining experience at L’Atelier Robuchon in Hong Kong. All that’s important is that the food is perfect… where it comes from really doesn’t matter.

You were the Culinary Counselor of New Viet Gastronomy.

Would you please describe your role at this Vietnam based food event?

It was very interesting to see a huge company like New Viet Dairy so committed to selecting excellent products to feature at the event. Vietnam has a renowned gastronomic culture, and has adopted western eating habits, especially since its dramatic rise in tourism. During my time with them, I was especially impressed

by Franco-Vietnamese Chef David Thai, who knew how to create intelligent compromises and both explain and demonstrate food preparation. We were together many times, and I believe we did a good job contributing to New Viet Gastronomy, a highly social and dynamic food event.

What are some of the challenges a new restaurateur may face in today’s competitive marketplace. What’s essential for success?

Without a doubt, they must execute well planned, thoughtful and honest marketing strategies which will help drive the restaurant’s brand DNA directly to the consumer. They also must know how to create a good and harmonious team. Employee changeovers should be minimized, and/or avoided whenever possible, as regular turnover can poorly affect a restaurant’s balance.

What advice would you give to an aspiring Chef or Sommelier?

For a Chef: Be yourself, find your unique voice in the kitchen, pick good fresh products to work with, and respect the people working alongside you. For a Sommelier: Always remember, there are wines to drink while eating and others that are not meant to pair with food. It’s essential that you learn the difference. epicurevietnam 101

CHEF MASTERCLASS

VIETNAM’S PREEMINENT CELEBRITY CHEF Earning the title “Iron Chef” is one of the greatest triumphs a culinary master may realize in his or her career, next to the achievement of a highly coveted Michelin Star. Only a handful of Vietnamese Chefs have secured this stellar recognition of excellence, and David Thai is one of the few to have joined this elite group of artists, bearing the celebrated name. Iron Chef David Thai was kind enough to speak with us about his distinguished career in Gastronomy, and share some great insider industry tips.

Please take our readers through the journey which led you to become the world famous Chef you are today.

My family was in the restaurant business, and I became fascinated with food as a young child. I was raised in the kitchen, and a deep seeded passion for cooking was a part of my upbringing.

My family worked very long hours, and sacrificed so much to share their cuisine with their customers; it became deeply embedded in my DNA. I studied the Culinary Arts in France, and have spent my professional career working at some of the best restaurants, hotels and resorts in the world. Very hard work, and a total commitment to my craft, has led me to the place where I stand today.

Who are your greatest Chef role models to date? Who’s work inspires you the most?

Michelin Star awarded twin brothers, Chefs Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. Their food is just superb. Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, not only for his inventive and inspired Japanese fusion, but due to his acute business acumen as a world class restaurateur. Michel Guerrard, one of the founders of Nouvelle Cuisine and the inventor of Cuisine Minceur, a lighter and more health conscious approach to Nouvelle Cuisine. And of course, cooking master, author, restaurateur and television personality Chef Gordon Ramsay. He’s just amazing.

How would you describe your food? What are your culinary influences?

I follow a more western approach to my food, with a twist involving global elements and ingredients. I was trained in the French method, and love to integrate aromatic herbs and Japanese ingredients in my cooking. I actually have an affinity for preparing vegan, solely plant based meals.

102 epicurevietnam

What are the five key ingredients which are never missing from your pantry or fridge and why?

Salt, eggs, vegetable oil, potatoes and rice. With just those key ingredients, you can literally prepare a thousand dishes. Plus, their low price make them fiscally sound and essential for every kitchen.

Tell us about your involvement with New Viet Gastronomy.

Please describe your role?

The idea behind the roll was to help sell New Viet Dairy vendor products by teaching, and demonstrating my hotel and restaurant chef skills. I developed and led course demos for each of the chosen ingredients, which a chef then could implement into their own kitchens and menus. I hope that my involvement with New Viet Gastronomy provided some solid knowledge and inspiration to the attending chefs, and restaurant owners.

You were crowned Iron Chef Vietnam, one of the greatest achievements a Chef may earn in your industry. Would you please share some advice for an aspiring chef, just beginning his journey in the kitchen?

Strongly believe in your talent… Be patient, sincere and passionate about your food. Don’t be afraid to relocate to another city, or even country, to hone your craft if the opportunity arises.

And never stop learning. You will continue learning about the nuances of food all throughout your professional career, only if you fully commit to intently watching and listening.

epicurevietnam 103

CHEF MASTERCLASS

EXPANDING HORIZONS

Permata Singapore’s new culinary director, chef Mel Dean, reveals his inspiration behind progressive Nusantara cuisine and why each dish is more than an homage to the region’s ethnic and cultural diversity.

Chef Mel Dean

104 epicurevietnam

PHOTOS COURTESY OF PERMATA SINGAPORE

BY NIDA SEAH

Chef Mel Dean and his team at Permata Singapore

H

e may be a familiar face in Singapore’s culinary scene and a prominent advocate of halal products and services for the last 29 years, but chef Mel Dean has lost none of his enthusiasm for cooking, creating new dishes and reinventing old ones. In fact, as the new culinary director of Permata Singapore, he has made it his mission to elevate Nusantara cuisine.

Nusantara is an old Javanese term that generally means “archipelago”. The cuisine, Dean explains, comprises Malay, Indonesian, Peranakan, Singaporean, Bruneian, Southern Thai and Filipino cuisines as these islands were all part of the Nusantara archipelago.

The 55-year-old chef says he never had the opportunity to work with the right restaurant that would do justice to this heritage cuisine – until now. Under his direction, the progressive new menu showcases the vibrant diversity and ethnic flavours of the region while highlighting classic recipes in a modern way.

It’s a culmination of a journey that began early in his life. “As the only child of working parents, I had to make my own meals and my kitchen was my food science laboratory. I experimented with ingredients, spices and herbs,” Dean says. By the age of 10, he would accompany his late grandmother and father grocery shopping, assisting and observing the mise en place and cooking techniques. “They used to run a food business and had amazing cooking skills,” he recalls.

Palumara Grilled Chicken

At 16, he cooked for 40 guests at a birthday party. “When I saw the facial expressions of the guests going ‘wah so sedap’ (meaning delicious in Malay), then reaching out for second helpings, I knew that was my calling as my cooking made people happy.”

After taking up various private cooking workshops in Singapore and overseas, he began cooking professionally. In 1993, he ran a cafe and catering business focussing on fusion food before specialising in halal international cuisines in 2000.

Here, Dean shares more about the dishes, his creative process, and his thoughts on helming a restaurant located in the historic Gedung Kuning (Yellow Mansion). epicurevietnam 105

In what way is Permata’s Nusantara cuisine “progressive”?

Progressive Nusantara cuisine is where we retain authentic flavours of the dishes but use better quality cuts of meat, premium ingredients and creative presentation to enhance the dining experience for our guests. For example, our Nusantara Ceviche is actually Umai, a dish from Sarawak. What we have done differently is to plate it in a martini glass, add a savoury blue pea gel and orange ginger gel, then toss it with a ginger flower lime dressing while retaining the traditional flavours.

What’s your creative process like when creating the menu?

Being in Kampong Gelam, we are surrounded by popular traditional Malay and Nasi Padang restaurants, hence we did not want to compete but complement each other. Taking into consideration the various regions of Nusantara, I decided to include dishes not easily found in Singapore such as Ikan Sambuko from Timor Leste, Ayam Palumera from North Sulawesi, Filet Mignon Lomak Cili Api from North Negeri Sembilan. Some dishes like Rawon Risotto and Botok Botok Halibut are classics reinterpreted.

Where do you get your inspiration from to recreate them in such a way?

Nasi Rawon is a dish close to my heart as I love to have it for breakfast. I discovered during one of my experiments that by just using risotto, I am able to retain the flavours while elevating the presentation of Nasi Rawon fit for Permata. Botok Botok Halibut was an idea from my wife as she wanted to have Botok Botok which is typically made with mackerel that has bones, making it inconvenient to enjoy. So I experimented with a halibut and viola, it worked!

What are some of your favourite dishes?

Three of my favourites are Nasi Ulam Cakerawala (Ulam Rice Balls), Filet Mignon Lomak Cili Api and Cek Mek Molek (Mashed and Fried Sweet Potato Fritters). Nasi Ulam Cakerawal is inspired by my late grandmother who would pound sambal bajak (a fiery Indonesian-style red chilli sauce) with a mortar and pestle, scoop some hot rice mixed with fresh herbs and salted fish, and feed me. I am honoured to have recreated this dish in her

Nasi Rawon

10 6 epicurevietnam

Permata Singapore at Gedung Kuning

memory. Filet Mignon Lomak Cili Api is a dish usually presented in a traditional manner but I have elevated it with 22K gold flakes, filet mignon, potato scallop and stir-fried asparagus. Cek Mek Molek is a tribute to my hometown, my roots in Kelantan.

During every visit to Kelantan or Kuala Lumpur, I will order a bag of their famous Kuih Cek Mek Molek. I have been told that it is hardly sold at restaurants here.

Ulam Rice Balls

What does cooking and presenting a menu like this in the historic mansion Gedung Kuning mean to you?

It is truly emotional and rewarding as back in 1993, I never thought that my dream could become a reality. I truly feel a sense of accomplishment and pride as I am able to do justice to my heritage and community. It is a blessed profession to serve people and satiate their gastronomical desires.

Some say that while there are many good halal food and restaurants in Singapore, there aren’t many who push the boundaries and go out of their comfort zone. What do you say to that?

It is understandable as the F&B industry is extremely challenging in Singapore and social media can be a double-edged sword, it does become daunting to push boundaries as you never know

how people will react.

That said, my focus has always been to pay tribute to my cuisine, to revive lost dishes and to elevate underrated dishes.

A lot of research and thought goes behind each dish as I respect the heritage and ingredients that I work with. There is so much more to Nusantara cuisine as every dish is steeped in history and we would like to share that with everyone. epicurevietnam 1 07

108 epicurevietnam

CHEF MASTERCLASS

GIVING BACK

You’ll be getting more than just a memorable meal at Ichigo Ichie. Dining at this kappo restaurant means you’ll be part of a circle that benefits a greater community.

BY ALFONSO PEREIRA

S

ince young, Chef Akane Eno of Ichigo Ichie, a fine dining kappo restaurant at Intercontinental Robertson Quay, always had great interest in food, as well as learning about culture through artwork. She reveals, “During my undergraduate study in Western art history, a professor mentioned that food is not art.” While it made sense considering the context of the lecture, she was taken aback since she always thought of cooking as a form of art. “This was one of the reasons that inspired me to enrol at the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka.”

“After graduation, I had an apprenticeship at a kappo restaurant where I met my mentor Chef Masaru Furusawa, who I worked with for more than eight years. He had an unusual approach to training junior chefs – he would have us stationed at the counter, where we can watch and learn from him and be immersed in the experience of serving guests.”

Walk us through your professional career as a chef. How did the opportunity to start Ichigo Ichie come about?

In 2015, Chef Furusawa’s friend was looking for a head chef for a casual Japanese restaurant in Singapore, which he wished to elevate to a more premium level. Afterwards, I happened to meet Chef Tomoo Kimura and became the head chef at Sushi Kimura.

At that time, I did not have any experience working for fine dining sushi restaurants, so it was a very valuable experience to work as a sushi chef and take on a different way of thinking during my time there. It helped me develop as a chef; I had the opportunity to discover my own preferences and the type of cooking that piqued my interest.

The concept of Ichigo Ichie was launched at the start of 2019 as a Monday night pop-up at Sushi Kimura. I am grateful that Chef Kimura offered me the chance to showcase my style of cuisine.

After about ten months, I came to learn of a restaurant space that was available and started on this journey in February 2020.

Would you say that being a fine dining kappo chef in Singapore is easier than Japan, or vice versa? If you were a professional chef in Japan, would things be very different.

I wouldn’t think about this as easy or difficult. The main challenge in Singapore is to introduce the charms of kappo cuisine to our diners and highlight how multifaceted it is Kappo is still considered a ‘new’ style here even though it is popular in Japan and has a long history.

I have not thought about the possibilities if I had chosen a different path. I believe everything that happens in my life is meaningful and everything will work out in the end. epicurevietnam 109

One of the hallmarks at Ichigo Ichie is sanpō yoshi. Can you explain more about this set of values/principles and why you decided to champion it?

Sanpō yoshi is the principle that business should benefit all people, not just the seller and client. It guided the activities of the Omi Shōnin, who were a class of top-tier merchants in the Edo and Meiji periods. Essential to their success were the acceptance and trust from their clients and the local community, so the Omi merchants made sure that they gave back through efforts like building schools and bridges. It was a way of expressing commitment to do good for themselves (Urite Yoshi), their clients (Kaite Yoshi), and the wider community (Seken Yoshi).

Sanpō yoshi aligns with my personal philosophy as I have always prized relationships. This also mirrors what Ichigo Ichie represents. I believe that demonstrating respect and kindness for the people we work with daily will create a virtuous cycle.

‘Ichigo ichie’ is an ancient Japanese proverb loosely translated as “one life, one moment”. It refers to an unforgettable experience that one cherishes for a lifetime. In traditional Japanese tea ceremonies, total devotion and sincerity – from both guest and host – is required in every aspect of the ritual, because each moment is unrepeatable. When guests dine at Ichigo Ichie, I wish for them to immerse themselves fully in the dining experience too, just like a tea ceremony.

110 epicurevietnam

Can you share with us how sanpō yoshi is brought to life at Ichigo Ichie?

Sanpō yoshi has guided my actions for years. Since coming to Singapore, I’ve always thought of durian as the Singaporean counterpart of uni because both have hard spiky shells and have fans and critics in their home countries. I was sharing this with a designer friend, who created a special version of Ichigo Ichie’s hand towels. The design juxtaposes uni and durian, and represents the uniqueness of Ichigo Ichie’s Japanese cuisine in

Singapore that no one can find even in Japanese restaurants in Japan. Guests celebrating special occasions, such as birthdays or anniversaries, at the restaurant receive this special tenugui as a complimentary gift.

In September 2021, we launched the inaugural sanpō yoshi initiative where part of the proceeds from a limited time special menu was given back to our industry partners. We focused on partnerships with rice farmers in Yamagata, Azumanofumoto Sake Brewery, and Tōhoku University of Art & Design. Partial proceeds from a special menu were used to purchase rice from rice farmers, which was then used by the sake brewery to create a new sake exclusively to us. I also worked closely with the university students to name the sake and design its bottle label, which gives them a hands-on opportunity to work on a retail product.

The sake La La La was ready for sharing in April 2022. 良良良 – the name of the sake in kanji – pays tribute to the three pillars of ‘good’ in sanpō yoshi. It represents the links forged between Ichigo Ichie, producers in Japan, and the restaurant’s supporters in Singapore. Guests who had made bookings for the sanpō yoshi menu in 2021 were invited to return for dinner, where they were gifted a complimentary bottle of La La La. During the same period, we offered a complimentary welcome glass of sake for all guests.

Another partnership was with HULS Gallery. I met Yusuke Shibata, founder of HULS Gallery, when I was working at Sushi Kimura because he supplied Japanese tableware to the restaurant. I became a regular at HULS Gallery as I enjoyed their curation of fine crafts. During preparations for the launch of Ichigo Ichie, I wanted to create a space where I can display my favourite crafts and discussed this with Shibata-san, who helped bring my idea to life.

In August this year, we had a collaboration with HULS Gallery for a special menu that highlighted a range of teas from Inokura Tea Farm in Nara Prefecture. They had recently expanded their showcase of Japanese artisanship by introducing teas to their collection. We discussed working together to showcase how teas can be featured in food and came up with a one-day only menu that highlighted the many ways to enjoy tea.

Will sanpō yoshi play a bigger role in the future of Ichigo Ichie? What should diners keep an eye out for?

This year, we have two upcoming events. We will be collaborating with Kamome Bakery for a special lunch at the end of November.

I met the bakery’s owner, Chinami Date, during a mandatory food hygiene course before opening Ichigo Ichie. We were the only two Japanese in the class and immediately became friends. Since my restaurant opened, we have been using the bakery’s shokupan as bread crumbs for fried dishes such. There is also a one night only event with HULS Gallery in early December. Eiko Tanaka, a well-known Japanese lacquerware master, will be in Singapore.

She will showcase a collection of her lacquerware pieces at the restaurant and interact with art enthusiasts during the dinner.

For 2023, I will continue to find more meaningful ways to develop the partnerships with the people around me and the restaurant. epicurevietnam 111

CHEF MASTERCLASS

112 epicurevietnam

ANTIPODAL TENDENCIES A conversation with Peruvian superstar chef Virgilio Martinez.

BY ROBERT GOH

W

ith his lanky frame, boyish features, and laidback (as much as a chef can be) manner, Virgilio Martinez could still very easily be the same semipro skateboarder that he was decades ago – except that at 45 today, he's one of Latin America's most important chefs.

On the surface, it might seem like a stretch that a young man with the anti-establishment tendencies that come with a love for Bad Religion and shredding rails might fall into the rigours of professional cheffing. However, anyone with appreciation for punk music, skateboarding, or the restaurant world will say the same thing: Success in any of these fields comes from a combination of focus and intensity bordering on obsession.

Martinez's is a life where seemingly opposing ends come together for great effect. In 1994, then a chef at the Four Seasons in London, Virgilio was sent to Singapore's branch of the hotel brand to stage in its Chinese restaurant. "At that time, I was so focused on French classical cooking that I didn't have eyes for anything else. I had to make dim sum and it made me feel I was bad at cooking as that was not my training. But that was good because it made me see that I had to go back to Peru to look for my cuisine.”

And he did. It did not take long after opening his first restaurant, Central, in 2008 for Martinez to rise to culinary stardom. During the early years, Martinez was doing what no or few other chefs were doing: Shining a spotlight on Peruvian culture and the diversity of its produce. Piranhas and cacao from the Amazon, technicolor tubers and high-altitude herbs from the Andes – all had a place of honour on the dining table at Central.

Four or so restaurants, an episode of Chef's Table, marriage, and a child, and at least a handful of MAD symposiums later, he's back in Singapore – this time coming from the literal other side of the world, Peru – with wife and partner-in-cuisine Pia Leon for a restaurant residence with Mandala Club. epicurevietnam 113

114 epicurevietnam

The mission still remains the same, although with success comes a different set of polarities to consider: Preserving the mission, and running restaurants. Stories are prime currency in the restaurant business, and sometimes, stories can run ahead of reality. Restaurants, for example – like in the case of recent allegations against farm-to-table luminary Blue Hill at Stone Barns – might misrepresent what their ingredients actually are.

"You need balance. This industry has its demons, and you cannot be protected by being naive. I cannot be the guy who is closed up and just doing my farming – I would not be in Singapore otherwise. I must work to preserve this thing we built, which I think is a good thing. We need to tell stories. We base the story on what we've seen in the Andes, in the Amazon, in nature. You have a story that makes sense, but when it gets out of control, we return to the soil, to the people.”

Most of the stories are told these days through a multidisciplinary project named Mater Iniciativa (Spanish for "Mother Initiative), where all manner of -ists – from anthropologists to artists and botanists – gather to understand and document Peru's rich cultures and ingredients.

Then there's MIL, Martinez's answer to the hegemony of European-style dining. The restaurant comes with an attached farm that uses indigenous agricultural practices. Because their home is mountainous, the Andean communities farmed vertically, resulting in terraced plots called andenes, with a different produce grown on each level. Here, guests dine on cuy, or guinea pig; corn grown within spitting distance; and a dessert of roots and tubers all right next to an Incan ruin.

Again, there's no dissonance here for Martinez. "I cannot deny that we are all influenced by the French system. You have to admit it's a beautiful system and there's a reason why it's used all over the world. If you want to break that, you have to be better than that.”

“You have to tell yourself: 'I need a staff of 100, I need to travel and speak to the media in different parts of the world, I have to open a restaurant in Tokyo'. I hate it when people say it's for the future generations. No. It's for today, for the guy who is in the kitchen right now."

For every chef – or person otherwise – toiling away and feeling lost, sometimes what it takes is a visit to the other end of the world. epicurevietnam 115

EPICUREAN PROFILE

A MATTER OF TASTE

There’s nothing more luxurious than unforgettable experiences — whether it’s through dining or retail. The recent establishment of V3 Gourmet makes sure it stays that way.

V

3 Gourmet may be a new name in the luxury lifestyle segment, but not to worry: It knows what it’s doing.

Behind the new Singapore-based venture are veteran entrepreneurs Ron Sim, Chairman, and Taha Bouqdib, CEO. It is the world’s first global luxury group dedicated to developing and managing luxury gourmet F&B lifestyle brands, with the aim of investing USD100 million into the industry in the next three years.

The vision for V3 Gourmet, which currently has the wildly successful TWG Tea and Bacha Coffee brands under its belt, is to invest in creating and sustaining legacy F&B lifestyle brands that aim for longevity as opposed to short-lived trendiness. It also works towards recognizing and meeting the needs of a rapidly growing mass affluent consumer base, which represents one of the world’s largest growth opportunities for consumer brands.

We recently caught up with Bouqdib, V3 Gourmet’s CEO, to let us know more about the new endeavor, as well as help us understand the state of Singapore’s luxury lifestyle segment – especially at a time where priorities are constantly changing.

As someone in the business of luxury experiences, can you comment on the state of luxury in Singapore?

There is huge growth in the prestige segment, which represents one of the world’s largest uptrend opportunities for consumer brands. In Southeast Asia alone, especially in Singapore, this segment is growing faster than any other income segment in the region. So, the face of luxury is changing.

We foresee a growing demand for accessible luxury. There are opportunities for traditional gourmet brands to grow if we reshape them for relevance among the prestige segment consumers.

V3 Gourmet sees opportunities within the luxury F&B concepts with a new vision for the brick-and-mortar supported by e-Commerce retail mix. This also anticipates where the needs of the broader market will shift in time to come.

11 6 epicurevietnam

Following the events of the pandemic, people’s priorities have shifted. What are consumers looking for now?

The ability to experience, discover, and shop online has become a way of life.

The major restrictions on personal mobility brought on by the pandemic has led to a shift in consumer habits. Segments of sales grew for TWG Tea and Bacha Coffee. The combined e-Commerce sales growth of two brands from 2019 and 2020 is 99%. The shift towards making purchases online remain consistent even when restrictions are lifted.

However, while V3 Gourmet’s core audience of prestige segment consumers actively consume digital media, they also enjoy immersive purchasing experiences. The human touch still matters in luxury. Whether in-store or remotely, these interactions will play a critical part in maintaining customer loyalty.

Furthermore, luxury gourmet brands are the first point of recall for consumers who want to do gifting, so there is a market shift towards making purchases that create opportunities for connecting with loved ones.

Brand repositioning is a popular catchphrase these days, where luxury and its approach has been turned on its head. In a way, luxury brands are more inclusive rather than exclusive. Is this a direction V3 Gourmet is heading towards too?

Yes, we believe that luxury brands need to be more inclusive rather than exclusive.

The prestige segment market has tremendous potential, especially in F&B retail lifestyle because these consumers look for experience. Our vision of creating a holistic customer experience is apparent in our brands TWG Tea and, more recently, Bacha Coffee. This extends to all touch points in the customer experience — including packaging luxury products beautifully.

However, we know that if the quality of the product itself fails to meet the expectations our customers develop based on their experience, the brand and the business will have no longevity.

When we create gourmet luxury brands, you can be certain that it is for legacy. For this to succeed, it is vital that we get the quality of the product and its value proposition right.

What’s your long-term goal?

The vision for V3 Gourmet is to invest in creating or reinventing legacy F&B lifestyle brands engineered for longevity. We believe that this will renew and sustain luxury F&B businesses that are relevant to the growing prestige segment.

We do this successfully by striking a balance between the following priorities: a) Strategically embracing innovation by preserving legacies by giving them renewed relevance b) Addressing the needs of a growing accessible luxury and prestige segment As we gradually emerge from the impact of Covid-19, we aim to expand quite aggressively. Anticipated openings for Bacha Coffee include France, Italy, Hong Kong, and Malaysia. epicurevietnam 117

W I N E K N OW L E D G E

WINE AND UNWIND

What’s new, Margaret River? epicure paid a visit to the second Fine Vines Festival and got up to speed with all the new happenings and finest gourmet experiences around the vines.

BY JUNE LEE

11 8 epicurevietnam

LS Merchants took part in the Busselton Wine Hop

I

t was early spring in Margaret River, and woodland flowers were blooming despite an unseasonal cold snap the week we arrived. This premium wine region is located 3.5 hours’ drive south of Perth in Western Australia, and for 10 days in October, it plays host to a new event, Fine Vines Festival. Little wonder that the town and roads felt slightly more bustling than usual.

“Bustling” may be a slight stretch – Margaret River and its 213,000 hectares of pristine environs are so spread out that you can hardly believe it attracts 1.5 million visitors annually. As new visitors soon discover, it comprises multiple districts which requires a bit more strategy if you want to fit all 100-plus cellar doors into your visit.

FESTIVAL KNOW-HOW

Clairault Streicker’s Ironstone Vineyard produces classically styled chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons

There are a few drawbacks for those well-versed in wine regions.

Visiting more than three wineries in a day can be taxing. Frequent visitors may tire of the same scenery and activities. And what if you visit at inopportune times when the winemaker is away or restaurants are closed for the low season? Hence the Fine Vines Festival (finevinesfestival.com.au), inaugurated in 2021, adds an enticing proposition – indulge in multiple curated events and experiences specially dreamt up with the wineries themselves, over a fun-packed space of 10 days each year. epicurevietnam 119

There is really something for everyone. The Busselton Wine Hop, for instance, brought small batch “low fidelity” wineries such as LS Merchants, Black Cocky, Vallee du Venom, Devaleski and more into four venues in town, where guests embarked on a self-guided walk to taste them all while soaking in the town. Flametree Wines’ (flametreewines.com) in Praise of Pink featured 23 rosé wines to taste, from dry to sweet, as guests sported their pinkest best. Sparkling Sundowners at Howard Park (howardparkwines.com.au) served up fresh oysters (Instagram: @Get_pickled_and_get_shucked) and delicious burgers from Normal Van (normalvan.com), as guests paired these with the Jeté range of sparkling wines while a DJ spun sexy tunes into the night.

Can’t get enough? We certainly couldn’t. We fretted about missing Wine on the Water, a Clairault Streicker (clairaultstreickerwines.com.au) tasting conducted on a whale watching catamaran, a perfect coastal adventure that juxtaposes the tameness of vigneron activity with the wild natural landscape. As consolation, we enjoyed lunch at the estate’s cellar door, and discovered their many activities here as well, such as a wine blending experience and picnic hampers to enjoy in the vineyards.

Flametree Wine hosted a rosé wine event at In Praise of Pink

120 epicurevietnam

Snake & Herring wines pair perfectly with the fresh catches at Yarri

KEEPING IT FRESH

Perhaps the most iconic event, and one that fitted neatly into the Fine Vines Festival schedule, was the annual Cape Mentelle (capementelle.com.au) International Cabernet Tasting, which celebrated its 40th edition during our trip. A total of 20 Cabernet Sauvignon bottles from around the world, including Château Margaux from Bordeaux, Ornellaia from Italy, Te Mata from New Zealand and multiple Margaret River labels, were tasted blind together, to allow guests to choose their favourites without bias.

It was fascinating to find out that a rather sophisticated red was winningly from local Xanadu Wines, or that a full-bodied hitter was indeed from Napa Valley. There is a waiting list every year for this event.

Cape Mentelle celebrated its 40th edition of International Cabernet Tasting

GO WITH THE FLOW • Don’t drink and drive. Gran Via Tours (southwesttours.com.au) does transfers as well as knowledgeable tours of vineyards, sights and other customisable requests.

• Bought too many wines or didn’t get to visit the wineries you wanted? Get bottles packed and shipped to you via the Margaret River Wine Centre (mrwines.com) • Reserve in advance for the hottest restaurants like Yarri, which often have long waiting lists.

• Most restaurants and shops close early so get your supplies and shopping beforehand. There are Coles supermarkets (coles. com.au) in Margaret River and Dunsborough (open 8am to 8pm).

We also got to duck into a few wineries in between events – because why not? Passel Estate (passelestate.com) runs a Nature and Wine Walk all year-round, showcasing their conservation efforts, with a Shiraz enjoyed in the vineyard that produces it, and hopeful sightings of endangered possums sleeping in their nests. A portion of proceeds from this walk is earmarked for more conservation efforts. Snake & Herring (snakeandherring. com.au) makes quirky and good regional wines, which if you run out of time, can be tasted at the rather excellent Yarri Restaurant + Bar (yarri.com.au) by acclaimed chef Aaron Carr, in collaboration with the winery.

Over at our luxury accommodation at Smiths Beach Resort (smithsbeachresort.com.au), we discovered that we could opt for an In-Room Private Dining in our villa, which boasted a full kitchen and expansive dining room. Whether a seafood barbecue or three-course meals, the restaurant can cater to all tastes and dietary requirements. We made our own arrangements, however, to try out Ben Jacob’s cuisine as chef-owner of hot new seafood destination Lagoon restaurant (lagoonyallingup.com.au), paired with Trait wines (traitwines.com) from his winemaker buddy, Theo Truyts. The seafood-specialist menu was kissed with fire from binchotan, while the small-batch wines were true to the old vineyards that they originated, with the Chenin Blanc 2022 and Chardonnay 2020 standing out in particular.

Old wineries revisited, many new ones discovered. When we said we couldn’t get enough, we really meant it. See you next year, Margaret River!

The 20 wines tasted at Cape Mentelle’s International Cabernet Tasting

Smiths Beach Resort villa living room

epicurevietnam 121

W I N E K N OW L E D G E

EVERY DAY IS A REASON TO DRINK PROVENCE ROSÉ Birthdays, anniversaries, festive occasions and more – Provence rosé wine is a drink that suits all occasions.

122 epicurevietnam

S

ome wines are meant for special occasions; others for a hearty meal or the aperitif hour. Provence rosé can defy such conventions – especially in Singapore where this wine naturally suits our lifestyle.

These bright, crisp, dry pink wines are made from a selection of grapes such as grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault. The vastness of the Provence wine region lends itself to a diversity of landscapes – the altitude and soil variations, the strong mistral wind and varying rainfall create microclimates which produce wines with distinct characteristics.

The red grapes are gently pressed to extract colour and juice and fermented to the house style to produce rosés of different hues, all with a lovely line of acid and a mineral or saline finish.

Provence rosé is most associated with sunny afternoons and aperitif hours, but given that we live in perennial summer, these pink-hued wines naturally suit into every occasion.

First, let’s tackle the most significant occasion of them all: Christmas. Provence rosés pair exceptionally well with seafood and white meats, as with salads and greens. If you’re opting for a turkey centrepiece, Maison Mirabeau suggests orange rind and Provençal herbs stuffing to complement their wines.

Special occasions like birthdays, anniversaries and in particular, Valentine’s Day, call for a shot of romance and pink – it is, after all, the most instagrammable wine style of all.

But when it comes to holidays marked by Asian cuisine, rosé impresses with its versatility. The wine style works well with spice and piquancy, as well as the diverse range of dishes and flavours we find on our tables.

Most of all, rosé retains its charms as an everyday drink.

Serve chilled; it’s hard to argue against a glass of Provence rosé.

Find out more about Provence rosés at www.vinsdeprovence.com. epicurevietnam 123

W I N E K N OW L E D G E

SOMMELIER-APPROVED:

WINES TO INDULGE IN THIS SEASON A trusty wine steward will steer you on the right course to uncorking the ideal wine for the occasion. Don’t let the spring slip by without these fine sips.

Daisuke Kawai, 41, is one of the most driven and respected senior sommeliers in Singapore.

Moving to Singapore in 2010, he was Les Amis’ chief sommelier for three years. Now as cofounder of La Terre fine wine bar, he constantly strives to better himself – which has led to him winning the title of Asia’s Best Sommelier in French Wines in 2017, and Singapore’s Best Sommelier for California Wines 2018 while also venturing into wine judging and education. “I want to know the world through wine,” he avers humbly. His advice to find the wines you enjoy: take photos and remember the grape variety of wines that appeal to you, and show these to the sommelier who will be able to recommend similar styles to suit your palate.

124 epicurevietnam

PHOTOS EDDIE TEO

BY JUNE LEE

179

$

1,743

$

CHAMPAGNE BOIZEL, BLANC DE BLANCS NV

JEAN BOURDY, CÔTES-DU-JURA ROUGE, VIN D’ARLAY 1915

You'll be surprised by the quality and finesse of this grower Champagne.

The Boizel family are very hands on with their style, where each plot from Premier and Grand Crus in the Côte des Blancs is vinified separately. The floral bouquet is immediately apparent, from Chouilly fruit, while minerality comes from Le Mesnil sur Oger, and power and elegance from Cramant.

A century-old wine is a trump card when you are looking to impress your boss or other half. Kawai is a big fan of the grape, Poulsard or Ploussard, a perfumed red grape that’s specific to Jura. "I would liken it to a Pinot Noir, which it’s most often blended with, but spicier and earthier," he adds. The Bourdy family has been making grapes since the 15th century, in very traditional style, with a cellar programme that holds back wines from the turn of the last century.

An item rarely seen today, the French pannier or wine decanting basket is Pannier a must-have for resting sediments from older claret-style wines, mature Syrah or vintage Ports. The one at La Terre holds the wine bottle securely at a 45-degree tilt, to help the sediments settle at the bottom of the barrel. A lighted candle or strong light is then used to illuminate the bottle while it’s being poured, to watch for sediments as the contents of the bottle are slowly, steadily poured out, stopping when the sediments start reaching the top of the neck. Done correctly, there won’t be a need for filtering or even a decanter for these older, more fragile bottles.

epicurevietnam 125

2,500

$

425

8,500

$

ARNAUD ENTE, MEURSAULT LA SÈVE DU CLOS 2005

VOUETTE ET SORBEE, CUVÉE ROSÉ SAIGNÉE DE SORBÉE NV

In line with how well elegant Burgundies pair with the ingredient-inspired cuisine at Odette, Tan recommends a top-notch label from Arnaud Ente, named Man of the Year 2012 by Bettane & Desseauve. Ente makes truly minute quantities of cult white wines from Meursault and PulignyMontrachet, of which the 100-year-old vines from Sève du Clos are most in demand. Riveting acidity, fresh driven style and tension-wrought, the white is drinking well now and will continue to evolve over the next few years – that is, if the restaurant can secure more bottles in future.

This is currently the final one in cellar.

This pick comes with no less than chef Julien Royer’s endorsement – he served it on his wedding night in 2012, and when it wasn’t available in Singapore, decided to bring it in directly for Odette’s 100-strong Champagne list. It’s a Rosé Champagne that’s as close to a red Champagne as you can get, made from pure Pinot Noir grown on rare Portlandian limestone soils on the Sorbée site. Made in biodynamic style, the wine is big with crunchy red fruit, peppery notes and earthy complexity from the terroir.

$

SCREAMING EAGLE OAKVILLE 1998

Often called the world’s ultimate wine key, or wine opener, Code38 is a precisely engineered sommelier’s tool that costs upwards of US$600. Tan uses his first-generation version daily, a gift from a fellow sommelier, and calls it a marvellous piece of construction which he can operate one-handedly. The Code38 allows the least amount of displacement to the cork, which performs well especially on more fragile corks, while its custom-made helix cuts a precise, single path through the cork with a high level of grip.

Code38

126 epicurevietnam

Of the 350 labels at Odette, approximately 85 percent are French.

The rest are a prime selection of heavyweights such as the cult status Screaming Eagle, one of Tan’s “dream bottles”. While he hasn’t tasted this fabled Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, he has sampled the winemaker Heidi Barrett’s second wine project, Amuse Bouche which differs in being a Pomerol styled Merlot from Napa. Screaming Eagle’s first and highly rated vintage was the 1992, and this 1998 is ideal for opening now.

Vincent Tan, 31, earned his chops as the winner of Singapore’s National Sommelier Competition 2015, and now heads up Odette’s specialised wine and tea lists with quiet gravitas. He calls each day a “fresh sheet” to be on the floor, talking to guests, and flexing deeper into the world of wines. He keeps his skills sharp by committing wine flavours to his muscle memory, reviewing why each bottle deserves its place on the wine list.

epicurevietnam 127

Lucas Liu, 27, head sommelier of Atlas, oversees the most comprehensive vintage and rare Champagne menu in Singapore. Part of the priceless collection is from the private Hwang family collection, which holds up to 50,000 bottles in Hong Kong and has never been commercially released. A self-confessed wine geek, Liu hopes to land his spot for the Court of Master Sommeliers’ Advance Sommelier Exam soon.

128 epicurevietnam

140

$

KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU SINGLE VINEYARD MALAGOUSIA 2016 This approachable and intriguing bottle is based on the once almost-extinct Greek grape Malagousia. Showing his geek side, Liu raves about the grape’s ‘Cinderella qualities’, being elegant while showing both citrus and exotic fruit profiles with unique aromas of rose. He also draws parallels to the restaurant’s Art Deco décor, which consists of mixed art that combines Greek mythology, and the suitable pairing with Mediterranean dishes, such as Spanish charred octopus and anchovies pintxo.

380

$

9,000

$

DOMAINE EGLY-OURIET BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND CRU BRUT ‘LES CRAYERES’ VIEILLES VIGNES This Champagne has notes redolent of Christmas: intense red apple, plum pie, cooked ginger, dark chocolate and sweet baking spices. Domaine Egly-Ouriet was one of the earliest grower Champagne houses, and is based in the Grand Cru Village-Ambonnay where the finest Pinot Noirs are. From old 70-year-old vines, on rich chalky soil, with extra ageing on lees, this is an oaky, exuberant choice to pair with charcuterie, cured meat and turkey.

SALON “S” LE MESNIL GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS 1971

Sophienwald Phoenix Series Bordeaux & Burgundy Glass (from $60 each)

The Blanc de Blanc was birthed during the Art Deco (1905-1936) era, from which Atlas takes its inspiration. Eugène Aimé Salon created the first such bottling in 1911 with the 1905 vintage – from one single region, the Côte de Blancs; from one single cru, le Mesnil-sur-Oger; from one grape, Chardonnay and one single unblended vintage. This extremely rare and perfectly cellared bottle from the Hwang family cellars is from the highly rated 1971 vintage. In contrast, the most current release is the 2006 ($900).

To stay ahead of the competition, Atlas is the first to bring in this highly coveted, handcrafted and lead-free brand from Austria. While it looks similar to Zalto glasses, Sophienwald’s Phoenix series has an even more dramatically angled curve at the bottom of the bowl, with lithe, fluid lines leading to the nose. With its delicacy, it’s only used to serve vintage fine wine and vintage Champagne.

epicurevietnam 129

V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

Photo: Mathieu Anglada

A HERITAGE OF MOUTON CADET WINES WITH VISIONARY LEADERSHIP Since 1930, Mouton Cadet has been revered by wine enthusiasts for its exceptional taste, sublime quality, and remarkable value. Coined “The Fine Nose of Wine”, Jérôme Aguirre joined Baron Philippe de Rothschild in March of 2022, to carry forth and elevate Mouton Cadet’s sourcing and production strategies, as well maintain and enhance the brand’s good standing within France, and across the globe. As the company’s newly installed Director of Mouton Cadet Wines, Jérôme Aguirre is destined to continue the propulsion of this time-honoured legacy brand well into the future as the label of choice for global wine lovers.

130 epicurevietnam

O

riginally from Basque country, Jérôme Aguirre studied Physical Sciences, Vinegrowing and Winemaking, before earning his Master of Finance degree. Jérôme began his illustrious career in winemaking in Australia, before overseeing nearly a dozen estate vineyards, scattered throughout the Bordeaux region of France. Epicure Vietnam was granted the rare opportunity to conduct an exclusive interview with Monsieur Aguirre, during his recent trip to Vietnam.

Photo: Nicolas Claris

We have noticed that Mouton Cadet has gone through some rebranding, with the introduction of elegant and chic new labelling and packaging. Could you please share some of the details & elements involved?

Mouton Cadet wines has designed elegant, lighter and airier new packaging. From the label proudly bearing a modernised “Barbacchus”, a logo recognised as a strong marker of the brand’s identity, to the addition of coloured curls to signify bunches of grapes, the visual identity of Mouton Cadet echoes this fresh impetus. The capsule is Bordeaux red for Mouton Cadet red, gold for Mouton Cadet white, silver for Mouton Cadet rosé and green for Mouton Cadet Sauvignon Blanc.

How many varieties of wine does Mouton Cadet produce?

The brand has a rich and colourful range. Although Mouton Cadet red is the founding pillar of the brand, it has now been joined by its inseparable companions Mouton Cadet white, Mouton Cadet rosé and, more recently, Mouton Cadet Sauvignon Blanc. Fruit-driven, fresh and succulent, these wines reflect current consumer preferences, being that they are easy to drink and made to be enjoyed while young.

Comprised of seven wines from prestigious Bordeaux appellations, the range is intended exclusively for wine merchants, gourmet food stores, hotels and restaurants. To distinguish themselves from the classic range, the wines in the Mouton Cadet Réserve range are more powerful, with refined oak to give them even greater finesse and elegance.

As with the premium range as a whole, Mouton Cadet Réserve Bordeaux red and white, Mouton Cadet Réserve Graves red and white, Mouton Cadet Réserve Médoc, Mouton Cadet Réserve Saint-Emilion and Mouton Cadet Réserve Sauternes have dispensed with labels in favour of highly refined screenprinting directly on the bottle. epicurevietnam 131

After more than half a year of joining Baron Philippe de Rothschild S.A., what are your feelings about overseeing Mouton Cadet?

I am honoured, of course, to be a part of the incredible team at Baron Philippe de Rothschild. As the Director of Mouton Cadet Wines, I am very proud to present the wide range of products, and share with our clients, distributors and our team my knowledge and appreciation of our wines.

Mouton Cadet has had incredible success around the world, especially in Vietnam. Can you please share with us the factors which lead to its success?

This year, Mouton Cadet celebrates its 90th anniversary, and with such a long-standing history, Mouton Cadet has a wide selection of grapes which creates an exclusive taste for each wine. For example, Merlot predominates in Mouton Cadet red, underpinned by the tannic structure of Cabernet Sauvignon and the elegance of Cabernet Franc. For Mouton Cadet white, Sémillon and Muscadelle are combined with a significant proportion of Sauvignon, giving more fresh fruit and boxwood aromas and flavours.

132 epicurevietnam

Being the prevalent brand of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Mouton Cadet inherits significant fine qualities and traditions.

There are many factors which contribute to the success of a brand, and to create great wines with great taste, the climate, the weather, the soils, the experience from the winemakers and quality control are key elements to achieving great results.

What is your assessment of the wine market post the Covid pandemic? Has the industry fully recovered?

After the border opened in most countries, around the world you can see that everyone is happy to travel & celebrate with friends and families again, and of course, wines are never absent on that beautiful occasion. The wine industry will take time to recover, after almost two years of the pandemic, but we all can see many positive signs that it will be a booming success again.

It will take a bit of time, but we all will surely recover and grow stronger as a result.

And how is your collaboration with the partner winegrowers & your team?

Together with my technical wine team, we are 7 winemakers working directly with over 200 partner winegrowers throughout the process of developing the wines, from the selection of soils, to the selection of grapes, and the nurturing of the balance of the taste of each wine.

Due to climate change, the soil keeps evolving which directly affects the harvests, and subsequently the taste of the wines.

Therefore, we are always aware and careful to curate the best quality grapes, growing on the richest soils and test them. Due to this strict vetting process, we can deliver great quality and taste.

We are not just creating a label, we are creating a global view,

an ecosystem for the brand which contributes to the success of Mouton Cadet around the world.

How do you keep yourself inspired and motivated through these challenging times?

In our field of business, we always need to be inspired, in love with what we do, and constantly maintain the freedom of creativity. Every morning, I walk through the vineyard, breath in the earthy scent of the soil, speak with the grapes and look at the fresh morning dew on each of the vines. It’s very beautiful and almost ritualistic every time I am there.

It is known that Mouton Cadet is distributed by the Warehouse in Vietnam. Can you please share with us the reason you selected Warehouse as your distribution partner?

We have been very fortunate to work with Warehouse for quite some time now. They have been a fantastic partner for us as they have the same ambition for growth as we do, and are always striving for the best quality. With a strong background in Horeca, Hospitality industries and a deep understanding of the marketplace, The Warehouse stocks the best variety of wines and is the partner in Vietnam to represent Mouton Cadet, as well as other brands from Baron Philippe de Rothschild. epicurevietnam 133

V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

A SINGULAR QUEST Owner-winemaker Jayson Woodbridge of Hundred Acre Wines did everything his way, and he was right. So what’s next?

BY JUNE LEE

134 epicurevietnam

J

ayson Woodbridge’s attention is very firmly on the myriad hawker foods he could be eating… if not for the pesky Singaporean journalist attempting to ask him wellworn questions about Hundred Acre. “I rarely do press interviews, but I like magazines and lifestyle stuff. I love lifestyle – houses, cars, boats, food and wines,” he drawls, larger than life, a little sardonic, definitely impatiently. At one point during the interview, he exits his chair, leaving me to think perhaps he’s decided to end it early.

“THE GREATEST CRITIC IS ME”

It’s not often a bonafide rockstar of the wine world – one whom the press has called contrarian, flamboyant, driven, genius, volatile and even arrogant – makes himself available for interviews. Woodbridge, a former investment banker who started Hundred Acre Wines in 2000 and has racked up 22 perfect 100-point scores from The Wine Advocate since then, does not need the media. Demand for his Hundred Acre wines far outstrip production, driving prices to four digits on the secondary market. There’s no fancy marketing, no welcoming cellar door with the bells and whistles, and definitely not much love for critics and strangers. “If I don’t know you or respect or have some understanding of what you do, it’s a no,” he says, of the hundreds of calls he gets a month.

But for those who are given a peek of Jayson Woodbridge, unabridged, there’s a lot more than meets the eye. This is the same guy who named his vineyard after the forest in Winnie the Pooh after all. Three of his vineyards are christened, in some way, after his kids. The opening paragraph from Homer’s Odyssey, of a man’s singular quest, is printed on every bottle label. Did I mention he loves cooking, possessing a commercial wok and parilla in his home kitchen, and even has a recipe for a mean Thai green curry on YouTube? Lunch arrives, and he eschews the beef short rib for the delicately toothsome Inaniwa udon. I realise that Woodbridge has high expectations of everyone, but especially of himself. epicurevietnam 135

THE GAMBLE

There are many cult wines and cult winemakers in Napa Valley, in varying amounts of success. Woodbridge is one of the more recent ones with a genuine cult following, but more importantly he is the only owner-winemaker who obsesses over making the wine himself. Apart from some consultation in the early years from terroir expert Philippe Melka (whom he calls his “wine Yoda”), Woodbridge has relied on an uncanny combination of his own knowledge, conviction and a very developed palate.

Together with winemaker wife Helen, they own three vineyards in Napa Valley making Cabernet Sauvignon and one in Barossa, Australia making Shiraz. All fruit is grown on estate, and whatever is not used is declassified and discarded – the last six vintages in Australia included. Woodbridge was one of the first to implement shade aids and misters in the vineyard to protect crops during adverse weather, and goes to great lengths to ensure he gets the fruit he wants. This include yields limited to one bunch per shoot, multiple passes during harvesting using a well-trained, veteran team who has consistently worked with him, and fermentation by block and clone at his dedicated winery, The Ring, located at Ark vineyard.

136 epicurevietnam

The Kayli Morgan vineyard is the first in Woodbridge’s estate, planted in 1996 and with first vintage released 2000. Being predominantly clay over gravel, it’s interesting to note that it was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, unlike say Petrus, as remarked

by Lisa Perotti-Brown. Ark vineyard on the slopes at the base of Glass Mountain – which got its name from black obsidian rock – is planted to a complex pattern of clones, rootstock, and blocks in a nearly 180-degree arc. Few & Far Between is planted with a bit of Cabernet Franc alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, and comprises gravelly loam. Its prime location above Eisele vineyard (now in the hands of Chateau Latour’s owner) lent to its name, but F.E.W. also happens to be one of his son’s initials. Finding time to visit Singapore – which he last visited 20 years ago – would

HUNDRED ACRE ANCIENT WAY SHIRAZ 2006 Grape: Shiraz Taste: This Barossa vineyard comprises true terra rossa iron-rich soils on which pre-Phylloxera vines were selected and grown. A nose of stewed cherry and tea leads to a supple, dense and fleshy palate. It’s lingering, bright and drinking beautifully. $488

have been impossible a few years ago. In 2017, Woodbridge sold off his other brands, Layer Cake, Cherry Pie and If You See Kay (say that out loud) in favour of slowing down after many hectic years traversing the globe making wine. Having turned 56, he expresses wanting to spend more time with Helen, fishing in her hometown of New Zealand or skiing in Switzerland where they have a home. Having proven himself relentlessly over the past 20 years, it would seem he’s allowing himself to smell the roses – but perhaps not for long. I manage to sneak in a last question to Woodbridge on his future plans, and discover there are several projects beyond Cabernet that he is famous for – alas, which I can't reveal for now. Whichever the case, you know exactly how Woodbridge will do it – his way.

HUNDRED ACRE ARK 2016 Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon Taste: From different blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon in nine different volcanic soil strata, this vineyard produces a deeper, darker and more precisely structured Cabernet than the Kayli Morgan. Spicy, earthy notes are interwoven with a basket of voluptuous fruit and fineboned tannins. $840

HUNDRED ACRE KAYLI MORGAN 2016 Grape: Cabernet Sauvignon Taste: The original Hundred Acre site is based on the right kind of clay, says Woodbridge. This is a wine that will haunt you with its complex, elegant seduction of blackberry and graphite, punctuated by abundant minerality and dense layers of fruit, florals and spices. $840

Hundred Acre is distributed by Grand Vin

epicurevietnam 137

V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

CRUSADING FOR CAVA

Xavier Gramona is the gentle warrior taking up the fight for top-end Cava to the consumer. June Lee examines why Gramona might be your sparkling wine of choice in 2019.

T

he urban slicker, white-haired fifth-generation owner of Gramona is pacifist by nature, but he’s been leading a quest to improve Cava’s image for almost two decades. Xavier Gramona, 59, is a man of philosophy, who chooses his words with care and spends a good 10 minutes probing the merits of character versus personality. Just like his exemplary aged sparkling wines that can cost up to US$150, he’s not in a rush to reveal himself.

‘BUDGET CHAMPAGNE’

Sparkling wine in the traditional method of Champagne was made in Spain since the 1860s. It was often referred to as champán, a practice that ceased after 1972 when the Consejo Regulador de los Vinos Espumosos (Regulatory Council of Sparkling Wines) established the use of the word ‘cava’ instead to avoid dispute with France. Cava simply means caves or cellars, referring to the storage areas where the wine is aged before it turns into a sparkling wine due to secondary fermentation in the bottle.

The problem for producers like Xavier is that his biodynamic, handcrafted and artisanal Cavas share the same shelf space as $5 options, preventing the industry from moving away from its cheap image. While the Council in 2017 announced a new designation of Cava de Paraje Calificado, akin to a grand cru-like labelling for specific terroir-driven Cava, the initiative hasn’t gone far enough for some producers.

That’s why Xavier, along with producers Llopart, Nadal, Recaredo, Sabaté i Coca and Torelló, have formed a new initiative called Corpinnat. The name means “born in the heart of Penedès”, and they have banded together to set strict quality standards with emphasis on single vineyards. Whether or not this means a move away from Spain’s denominación de origen (DO) system is the next step – and what the ramifications are for customers.

138 epicurevietnam

A BOND WITH NATURE

Born in Barcelona but with ties to Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, the centre of the sparkling wine region of Alt Penedes, Catalonia, Xavier didn’t come to the family business until the age of 35, due to circumstances which he doesn’t divulge. Once he left the corporate world, he found his mission in life in revitalising the industry.

Together with his winemaker cousin Jaume Gramona, they set out to reaffirm what their great-grandfather Pau Batlle made 130 years ago when he aged the Xarel-lo wine, which was confirmed by Josep Lluís and Bartomeu Gramona in the 1950s after the house had adopted its official name, Gramona. They also oversaw the costly conversion of their organic farming to biodynamic. They are now one of, if not the largest, biodynamic sparkling wine producers in Spain, with a production of 600,000 bottles a year, similar to the size of Krug. He explains, “After you apply years of antibiotics, the vine is no longer self-sufficient, it’s not able to defend itself against infections or disease on its own. Our vineyards have animal life that was lost before, with worms, arachnids and microbiotics making up the healthy soil.”

Gramona also uses natural yeast that gives the wine personality, as opposed to the genetics of the vine which makes up its character. In harmony, the wines have a distinct, generous and complex profile, which does not need much addition of dosage, thanks to the natural subtlety of the acids of their grapes.

ARTISANS OF TIME

The other factor is Xarel-lo, one of the three traditional, endemic grapes used in Cava production. While Parellada can be oxidative and Macabeo is an in-between of the two, Xarel-lo is claimed to be high in resveratrol, a natural phenol in grapes which appears to give the wine a longer ageing window while imbuing more balance, elegance and nutty, toasty flavours, thanks to naturally occurring benzaldehyde. At first, the local critics scoffed when Gramona released a 10-year-aged Cava, but with accolades coming in from

CAVA GRAMONA ILL LUSTROS 2011 Grapes: 100% Chardonnay Taste: Beautifully handwrapped in cellophane, this bottle was aged on lees sur lattes for 84 months with a cork stopper, with less than 3% dosage. While it appears big on the entry, it’s tempered by savoury balsamic aromas, a lively refreshing finish and balance.

Serve in a balloon wine glass with terrines, seafood and poultry. $92

the U.K. and U.S., the same critics were emboldened to embrace the new style. The Enoteca Brut Nature 2000 was named 2017 Best Wine in Spain in the La Guia Peñin wine guide.

Xavier and Jaume are already thinking of the next generation who will take over the winery, which made it easier to decide on issues such as going biodynamic that will put them in good stead in future. After all, for some of the bottled 2018 vintages, it will be 15 years before it’s ready to be released – some things just can’t be rushed.

CAVA GRAMONA CELLER BATLLE GRAN RESERVA BRUT 2006 Grapes: 75% Xarel.lo, 25% Macabeo Taste: Aged for 120 months, this Gran Reserva is powerful yet well primed with candied white fruit and the finishing of hazelnut, coffee and brioche.

While its minerality is soft, it’s still distinctly poised with creamy, well-formed bubbles and a long aftertaste. $166

CAVA GRAMONA ENOTECA BRUT NATURE GRAN RESERVA 2002 Grapes: 75% Xarel.lo, 25% Macabeo Taste: From a cold and wet harvest, this was the first vintage to go through the new Cellar Batlle facilities. There’s a silky, subtle first impression, turning into a highly perfumed, earthy, saline sip with fine and still lively acidity. A sustained plum and herbal fennel palate carries it to the lengthy finish. $340 Wines are available from ewineasia.com

epicurevietnam 139

V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

South African winemakers are striking out with innovation, diversity, and refreshingly new wine styles, all while respecting the past. epicure visited Cape Wine 2022, the triennial wine show in Cape Town, to find out more.

BY NIMMI MALHOTRA

140 epicurevietnam

H

ow much do we know about South African wines?

Beyond Kanonkop and pinotage, not much, says Cherie Ball. A boutique wine merchant, Ball cofounded Wine to Share and exclusively imports South African wines. In the last 20 years, her portfolio has grown from four to 18 producers, including Mullineux & Leeu, Naude, and Thorne and Daughters.

“The average Singapore consumer still has traditional South African wines in mind - the Bordeaux-style blends, bold cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, an almost off-dry style pinotage seem to have good mass appeal,” says Ball. “There’s very little awareness of Method Cap Classique (South African sparkling wine made in the Champagne method or of Chenin.”

Unanimously, consumers know of South African wines as “great value for money”, but that’s where it usually stops. Not many in Singapore, besides us in the wine world, know of the slew of wine styles South Africa makes, nor of the wine region beyond Stellenbosch or, lately, just how good the wines have become.

This year, after a four-year Covid-induced hiatus, the worldwide wine industry gathered in Cape Town for the triannual wine exposition, Cape Wine 2022. Over 1200 visitors comprising international buyers, media and wine critics came to learn and appreciate the latest Cape wines, and to marvel at

the astounding growth the country has made in a mere 30 years.

(While winemaking in South Africa traces its origins to 1679, the wines came to international recognition in 1990s post-apartheid.)

We found a vibrant winemaking scene, organic and sustainable viticulture, regional camaraderie, generosity and exalted quality across the board. Some key trends are worth sharing. But before that, let’s get our basics right. epicurevietnam 141

KNOW YOUR REGIONS

South Africa is, by far, the most beautiful wine region. The landscapes are marked by the lofty and venerable mountain ranges that run in every direction creating stunning valleys and vistas. The vines grow in the same region as the UNESCOprotected Cape Floral Kingdom, home to 9,000 plant species, including proteas and pincushions of every colour. Does the flora influence the wine? Probably, the same way as eucalyptus trees affect Australian wines.

It is important to understand the regional differences as winemaking has extended far and wide to over 90,000 hectares.

Here is the quick and short version.

The largest wine region is the Stellenbosch, known for cabernet sauvignon, Bordeaux blends, chenin blanc and chardonnay. Walker Bay includes Hemel-en-Aarde, Cape Agulhas and Hermanus, home of the best expressions of pinot noir and chardonnay. Further afield, Elgin and Constantia produce vibrant sauvignon blanc, while Swartland is home to old-vine syrah and old-vine chenin blanc.

SHEER VARIETY OF GRAPES AND STYLES

The varieties and styles have exploded. We found varied expressions of pure cabernet franc, viognier, albariño, semillion and notably, semillon gris, a colour-changing variety unique to the Cape winelands.

142 epicurevietnam

The winemakers are exploring new and old winemaking styles, giving new life to age-old grapes. Take the ubiquitous pinotage, infamous once for its burnt rubber characteristics. It has since given way to two appealing versions – a lighter cherry fruit-driven style and a bold oaked style.

At the same time, though, the multifarious styles make it very hard to pin down the regional style or signature. Encountering three different styles of chenin or syrah from the same producer is not uncommon. Also, some styles are a work in progress, so keeping an open mind is key.

CHENIN, ALL THE WAY

Native to the Loire Valley, chenin blanc reigns supreme in its adopted home in South Africa. “There is a Chinese saying that iron sharpens iron. It rings true in South Africa where every producer is trying to outperform the other,” observed Gerard Zhang of Stellez Vine, importers of South African labels including Raats, Tulbagh Winery and A.A. Badenhorst.

Virtually every producer produces a chenin, which could be oaked, unoaked or lees stirred. The consistently high quality across the board is a proof of how well the grape is suited to the regions. The best examples of chenins tasted of citrus and stone fruit notes, with either vibrant acidity (in the case of winemaking in stainless steel) or a mellow and measured definition and oxidative flavours when oak was used.

Our top choices include Alheit’s Cartology 2019, Breedelkoof’s Olifante, Stellenbosch’s Naudé Old vines Chenin Blanc and Swartland’s David and Nadia Hoë-Steen.

IN THE RED

Praelum’s Gerald Lu walked away from Cape Wine 2022 with renewed appreciation for cinsault. “The most exciting thing for me was to see the rise of cinsault. It has always been a great grape variety. To see it in a pure, 100 percent expression made in an extremely elegant manner and a wine with depth was exciting.

This is the one to watch,” he says.

Prime examples include Leeu Passant, Old Vines Lötter Cinsault 2018, Franschhoek and Naudé Werfdans Old Vines 2016 from Darling. Other red varieties on our radar were shiraz, the rising star of the Cape Winelands, especially from Swartland, and 100% cabernet franc which expresses itself with poised blue and black fruits. Our picks: Gabrielskoof Landscape series Cabernet Franc(Bot River), Keermont Syrah (Blauklippen valley), and Leeu Passant old Vines Lotter Cinsault (Franscoek).

epicurevietnam 143

THE YOUNG GUNS

South Africa is buzzing with young blood – men and women (though not enough of them) rubbing shoulders with industry greats like Kenn Forrester, Eben Sadie and Kanonkop’s Abrie Beeslar. We are looking at a new generation pushing innovation and boundaries like Tania Kleintjes, winemaker for Spier’s Good Natured range of organic wines; Chris Alheit of Alheit Vineyards; and Jean Smit of Damascene.

What’s more, these young guns are challenging the established notions of wood and ageing. “I am definitely noticing more use of amphorae and concrete eggs, and a real departure from new wood. Even the use of new wood seems to be reduced by 10 to 25 percent, and on very select varieties like chardonnay, Bordeauxstyle blends, cabernet sauvignon and Cape blends,” says Ball.

Innovation has fast permeated the wine culture of the land.

Devon Lochhead, regional sales manager, Asia, for DGB, the country’s largest wine producer, talks about the Playpen project, an initiative within the corporation driven solely by the creativity of DGB winemakers. “Every winemaker chooses a favourite plot and cultivar (grape variety) to make wine, as they wish.” He points to the 100 percent pinot verdot and petit syrah expression, a rare wine which sell out quickly. “This range will constantly be changing based on the winemakers’ passion and preference.”

14 4 epicurevietnam

BUT ARE WE DRINKING ENOUGH SOUTH AFRICAN WINES?

Lu finds wine lovers are more receptive to new regions and tastes. A decade ago, South African wines were “cheap and entrylevel”, but not so much anymore. At the same time, though, most sommeliers and Singapore distributors agree that South African wine makes up five percent, or at most 10 percent of the wine lists in the country. “From the consumer perspective, people are happy to taste something new – a glass of Cap Classique, cool climate pinot from Walker Bay, South African chenin blanc or a Bordeaux blend from Franschoek.”

Across town, Ball finds the same. “Based on our workshops and tastings with clients, there is certainly more of an acceptance of lighter wine styles now, including pinot noirs and cinsaults on the red wine front.”

From a supplier perspective, Lu noted that South Africa is no longer a “pity- addition” to the list. Importers are actively looking to develop their South African offerings. “They are a young country as are we,” says Lu. “The fun part about young places – things change rapidly, and the dynamics are more exciting.” epicurevietnam 145

CELLAR CHOICE

CHAMPAGNE LEGRAS & HAAS BLANC DE BLANC GRAND CRU MILLÉSIME CUVÉE LES SILLONS 2012 Francois Legras and Brigitte Haas combined their respective experiences in wine in 1991 when they founded Legras & Haas, now joined by their three sons. Refinement and precision are their hallmarks, with Chardonnay from Chouilly in many of the blends. The Blanc de Blancs redefines the genre with panache, exuding a delicious nose of lemon curd and white peach, while the structure is rich and firm with a touch of oak. Ready to drink now with a variety of dishes from seafood to grilled poultry. $145 from intervino.com.sg

Will you be serving an unusual grower Champagne or powerhouse red this Holiday?

Whether for gifting or drinking, these picks will have you falling in love with wines all over again.

PERRIER-JOUËT BLASON ROSÉ For a fresh, lively and rounded Rosé Champagne, fans look to the red wines of Aÿ and Vincelles, which is represented in 12-15% proportion in this blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier and 25% Chardonnay. Toast to the season with a new bottle shape of the Blason Rosé, made in the style of the maison’s mid-century Blason de France Cuvée, which gives the serving experience a traditional sense of elegance with its rounded curves. Its juicy fruitiness hints at pomegranates and blood orange notes, while the palate is redolent of biscuit and pastries. $123 from crystalwines.com

CHAMPAGNE FREDERIC SAVART L’ACCOMPLIE EXTRA BRUT Frederic Savart is a dedicated sustainable grower producer who makes some of the most compelling Champagnes from his tiny holdings in Ecueil and Villers-aux-Noeuds.

L’Accomplie (“accomplished” in French) takes its blend from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, but with complex finesse – the base vintage makes up 50% of the blend, while the other half comes from the previous vintage. This bubbly presents itself in many layers, unfolding as it reveals apple and white fruit with a spine-tingling amount of acidity, with savoury and distinctive aromas adding to sensory experience as the soft fine bubbles hit your palate. $85 from WEA Wines

146 epicurevietnam

Écueil Covering over 700 hectares in Montagne de Reims, Ecueil is mostly planted to Pinot Noir, and tends to have more sand based soils. Mostly classified premier cru.

Villers-aux-Noueds Also mostly classified premier cru, the small village of Villers-aux-Noueds is located bordering Ecueil. Its 28 hectares under vine are half planted to Pinot Noir, and generally has chalkier soils.

Premier Cru While there are 17 Grand Cru villages in Champagne, there are 43 Premier Cru classified villages, all located in Marne.

ERNEST RAPENEAU GRANDE RESERVE BRUT SELECTION While this maison may be a bit low key, it’s noteworthy for being a family-owned grower, one of the largest in Champagne. Headed by fourth-generation Christophe Rapeneau of the Rapeneau Family Estates comprising seven Champagne brands, the flagship Ernest Rapeneau comprises several styles of popular bubbly. For the holidays when big is better, look to this fresh and frank Grande Reserve which comprises Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier in smooth balance.

Fine, persistent bubbles and classic notes of white flowers with nutty aromas help it pair to the Christmas table or with cheese. $130 (magnum) from wineconnection.com.sg

MONTECILLO SELECCION ESPECIAL GRAN RESERVA 2001 Recognised as Best of Show Rioja Gran Reserva as well as winning a Gold Medal at the Mundus Vini International Competition 2017, this 2001 is living up to its early potential.

At 13.5%, the 100% Tempranillo has spent minimum 10 years in bottle ageing, and its colour is still deep cherry with intense brick red highlights. Classically styled, it brings out intriguing notes of root beer, ripe berry, prune and smoked meat complexity from the nose to the palate, finishing elegantly with licorice brightness. Drink now or hold another five years. $128 from Certain Cellars

PAGODES DE COS 2015 Pagodes de Cos has been made since 1994, but since 2015 it was revamped with a fresher, bolder label that reflects its attractive, seductive outlook. This second wine of Cos d’Estournel is a consistent performer, comprising 46.2% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvgignon, 5.8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, typically from younger 30+ year old vines that will go into the Grand Cru in future. Voluptuous due to the vintage, careful winemaking has woven the tannins into the appealing fruit, bringing about balance and silky expression. While it would pair beautifully with turkey or roast beef, the bottle benefits from cellaring another 10 years. Enquire at Oaks Cellar

MONTES PURPLE ANGEL 2015 The latest release of Purple Angel is creating quite a stir, with ratings deeming it one of the best vintages to date since it was first released in 2003. Comprised of 92% Carmenère and 8% Petit Verdot, this flagship bottling of Chile’s ‘rediscovered’ signature grape goes into new French oak barrels for 18 months, giving it ample yet not overbearing structure and soft tannins. While layers of dark chocolate and sweet spices are expected, the optimal soils of Colchagua Valley along with a great vintage year imbues finesse and a lasting finish.

Ideal with lamb chops, pork ribs and cannelloni. $107 from crystalwines.com

BORDEAUX 2015 VINTAGE • 2015 was a return to form for Bordeaux after an uneven 2014. It had ample fresh fruit though Jancis Robinson notes that “The acid levels are fairly, occasionally dangerously, low."

• A hot and dry summer took its toll on some vines, but rains and cool weather helped grapes through the critical ripening season to the end of October.

• Lisa Perroti-Brown MW marked her debut as Robert Parker Wine Advocate’s new Bordeaux Reviewer, and singled out Fronsac, Saint-Émilion (especially grand cru level), Pomerol and their satellites as well as Pessac-Léognan for quality.

IT'S ABOUT TIME that screw-cap bottles receive an upgrade in the way they’re opened and served. The premium finished, sleek Wine Donut was developed in Singapore and made in Malaysia to fill this niche.

The founder collaborated with wineries and sommeliers to come up with this patented and ergonomic shape that allows screw-cap topped bottles to be stylishly twisted off during service. For now, it's only available for custom orders starting from 100 pieces, but starting next year, it'll be on retail with optional engraving services. wine-donut.com

CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA 2012 ZODIAC BOAR The Zodiac series from Castiglion del Bosco reaches its sixth edition, evoking the harmony and balance of a stellar vintage for this Sangiovese. Only 688 bottles in magnum size are available, showcasing a commissioned artwork label in line with previous releases. Winemaker Cecilia Leoneschi makes the blend selection from different parcels, looking for richness, ripe fruit, tobacco and a touch of spice. Its ageing in French oak and concrete tanks brings it to harmony even at this young age, though it’d be a pity to drink now. $1,750 (magnum) from cdbzodiac@ castigliondelbosco.com (pre-order).

epicurevietnam 147

RAISING THE BARS

ISLAND OF LIBATIONS From Seminyak’s speakeasy within a speakeasy to Indonesia’s first natural wine bar, epicure finds out how the pandemic has not stop Bali’s bar scene from flourishing.

BY EVE TEDJA

P

lenty has changed since Bali’s first speakeasy bar opened in 2015. Back then, Baker Street Social was reverently whispered amongst “those-in-the-know” as the place to be for late-night tipples in Seminyak. Hidden from the plain sight atop a barber shop, there was nothing like it. Behind an unassuming door, a narrow room was dimly lit and furnished with chandeliers, chintz lounges and gilt mirrors. There was no menu.

Guests could order according to their palate and preference – be it a twist of the classic or an entirely new concoction made from the house-ferments and infused spirits. For the longest time, the cocktail menus in Bali were dominated by funky concoctions in neon colours and dubious ingredients. The general rule when one went for a night out was to stick with beer. Negroni was an unheard-of cocktail. Speakeasy and the impression of committing a crime by going into a hidden bar was an entirely alien concept. It was not a surprise that it immediately became a hit.

SPEAKEASY, LOVE Soon, Petitenget Street was the place to be. High-end, top-notch restaurants nestled side-by-side with post-dinner watering holes.

40 Thieves, opened in 2017, is concealed above a ramen joint. The New York-style speakeasy bar quickly became the place for predrink gatherings, after-work get-togethers and nightcaps where locals, tourists and expats would meet and mingle. Shah Dillon, the proprietor of The Midnight Brigade – operator of boutique bar concepts – was responsible for turning 40 Thieves into the institution it is now.

Dillon is one of the bar’s magnets along with his brigade of talented bartenders, stiff cocktails, cool tunes and lively crowd.

The bar’s success was immediately followed by the opening of El Nacional a year later on the same street. Whereas 40 Thieves serves craft spirits and classic cocktails, its sister housed more than 300 rums and had a more lounge-y vibe with Latin flair.

“These two concepts went hand-in-hand. When people asked me what’s the difference, I used to say, ‘You bring your wife to El Nacional and your Tinder date to 40 Thieves.’ That’s how different the places were,” says Dillon.

148 epicurevietnam

Cocktails by 40 Thieves

The New York-style speakeasy bar 40 Thieves

40 Thieves got so successful that it had to doubly expand its size in September 2019. Then the unthinkable happened.

Petitenget Street went from bustling to desolate within just a few days as the sinister announcements of worldwide border closures forced people to flee the island. El Nacional was closed until further notice.

“The pandemic forces us to be creative. We have to think of other ways to stay relevant. It was difficult to fill up a 50- to 100-person space during the pandemic. Hence, we came up with a new concept bar, Cloak & Dagger, a speakeasy within a speakeasy, hidden within 40 Thieves,” explains the Singaporenative entrepreneur. The 15-seater, by-reservation only bar is designed for cocktail connoisseurs and helps the business during the quiet part of the week.

Inspired by notorious serial killers, the bartenders can be found behind the copper wearing forensic lab coats and mixing cocktails made from house-fermentations and shrubs such as The Serpent. Inspired by the 1970s killer Charles Sobraj, it is a concoction made of Brandy VSOP, Cointreau, house-made OldFashioned bitters, peach bitters, and Strawberry Basil Shrub.

Led by Aldi Zulyatmiko, Cloak & Dagger’s menu involves fermentation, pickling, shrubs, and cutting down the waste. “We make the Strawberry Basil Shrub from the leftover ingredients of the sous-vide vodka’s lemongrass, chilli and basil used in 40 Thieves’ cocktail, Thai Whore Smash. Once the shrub is done, we turn the remains to edible fruit leather for the other cocktails on the menu,” says Zulyatmiko.

Meanwhile in Canggu, The Shady Pig was boldly defying the odds by opening its door during the height of the pandemic, in November 2020. Created by Tavolo, a Bali-based boutique hospitality group, the sipping lounge took its inspiration from the early 1920s’ Birmingham mobster syndicate who rose to power through illicit means and the Prohibition Era. To reach the den, guests must enter through an unmarked black door, mention the password to an usher, and climb up a dim staircase.

The Shady Fox in Pererenan, Canggu

Behind the marble-topped bar encased in copper, a team of industrious bartenders are stirring and shaking classic as well as bespoke concoctions in their button waistcoats and peaked flat caps uniforms. One may sit at either one of the two cosy lounges.

One lounge resembles an English gentlemen’s private club with its shelves of leather-bound books and taxidermied deer head while the other lounge serves as the DJ’s booth.

“The bar team, led by Adiz Dozovic, makes its own spirits, tinctures, syrups, mixers, and garnishes; applying experimental techniques such as rotovap distillation, infusion, barrel-ageing, fat-washing, and fermentation. So, despite the challenges in procuring specific products in Bali, our team managed to create flavour-focused cocktail components,” explains Raimondo Barbaro, The Shady Pig’s music director. Within one year, the speakeasy bar had gotten a big following. Its Oak Barrel-Aged Negroni and Sexy Colada, a twist of Pina Colada, are just two of the bar’s favourite tipples.

The group recently launched its second bar, The Shady Fox, in Pererenan. It is a clandestine cocktail parlour where glamour, roulette, theatrical cocktails and late-night entertainment are part of the experience. It will launch its third venue, The Shady Flamingo in Seminyak soon. “Bali’s bar scene continues to grow because each bar offers something different. We breathe originality into each of our creations,” adds Barbaro.

epicurevietnam 149

The talent behind Mosto (L–R): Lorenzo de Petris, Vanessa Di Maria, Federico Sirito, Nicolas Lento, Isabella Rowell, and Denny Bakiev

THE NATURAL ORDER The strange, quiet lull at the beginning of the pandemic gave Isabella Rowell a chance to sit down, think and taste natural wine. One of her partners, Nicolas Lento, was on the verge of colaunching Toto Wines, a natural wine importer and distributor. As the tour de force behind Bali’s successful Mexicola Group (Motel Mexicola, Da Maria, Uni, and Luigi’s), Rowell and her partners were voluntarily recruited to taste a myriad of natural wines which before was impossible to find in Indonesia.

“We felt like there is a gap in the market for a casual wine bar where somebody can pop in on any Tuesday evenings for a glass of wine, a bowl of pasta and feel right at home. We’ve come to love natural wine and we wish to share our passion in one place,” says Rowell. Thus, Mosto was born.

Italian for freshly pressed, unfermented grape juice that kickstarts the winemaking process, Mosto is powered by Balibased progressive talents. Rowell and sommelier-trained Federico Sirito are in charge of the service while food is being taken care of by executive chef Lorenzo de Petris. Bringing his Italian roots and Michelin-starred experience from the kitchens of Le Gavroche

150 epicurevietnam

and The Waterside Inn, Mosto offers an all-day menu of seasonal snacks and small plates for sharing. Vanessa Di Maria handles the marketing while Denny Bakiev, beverage director of the Mexicola Group, creates the stellar cocktail menu, offering both classics and twists such as Yuzu Gimlet or Caffe Latte Negroni.

Lento is responsible for assembling a collection of 70 labels from small natural wine producers from Italy, Spain, Austria, France, Australia, Czech Republic, and soon, South Africa. The organic or biodynamic wines that fermented with native yeasts are flexibly served by the glass, carafe or bottle.

In January, Indonesia’s first natural wine bar and eatery officially opened. With breezy outdoor and cosy indoor seating areas, guests can nibble on San Daniele prosciutto croquetas or chicken liver parfait and sumac onions with a bottle of chilled 2020 Gut Oggau Theodora from Burgenland, Austria. “The pandemic has changed the shape of our businesses. By now, we have learned that we can’t survive just by being a restaurant or a bar alone. We need to be diverse and give the customers what they want. Here, there is still a lot of room left for small, quality restaurants and bars,” states Rowell.

NEW BARS ON THE BLOCK Enforcing Isabella Rowell’s statement, Bali’s latest bars are opening with different concepts and in varied locations. Craft cocktails can be had at Canggu’s bar-cum-club, Behind the Green Door. True to its name, the new bar is located behind a green door with a massive lion head knocker. Find Harris Mahendra behind the bar, concocting Cigarette Break, a 30-day American Oak barrel-aged Mezcal Negroni served with Campari jelly. Come early for a quiet sip and stay until late for the island’s hottest DJs performances.

Alternatively, go up to Desa Potato Head’s rooftop to catch the setting sun. Sunset Park, opens from 5pm to 8pm on Saturdays, beats the crowd and sip Aperol Spritz with the ravishing ocean view before heading down to have dinner at the experimental plant-based restaurant, Tanaman.

Minimalism, soft earthy tones and curves define the space at Bar Souvenir. Canggu’s latest drinking den is an intimate 12-seater bar reminiscent of hole-in-the-wall-style bars of Tokyo or Hong Kong. Nestled within Kinship Studio, it opens daily from 5pm until late. “We’re experimenting with tinctures and herbs, and incorporating these into our drinks for added benefits. For example, the benefits of Holy Basil are believed to calm your nerves and reduce anxiety. We recognise that people enjoy having a post-work drink to switch off, so our Wind Down cocktail incorporates a holy basil tincture with tequila and lemon balm,”

Bar Souvenir’s cocktails and wine offerings

says Michael Madrid, co-owner of the bar. Non-alcoholic options are also available as well as tasty snacks from FED by Made.

Last but not least, Raja’s is a child born out of love for Wes Anderson’s movie sets, flavours of Rajasthan, Moroccan rooftop venues, Italian spirits, and lesser-known classic cocktails.

Taste their Garam Masala Old-Fashioned, The Pegu Club or The Punjabxaca – which features a Punjab’s kanji ferment and Oaxaca’s Mezcal – for a quirky night out on your next visit on Petitenget Street.

Sunset Park at Desa Potato Head

epicurevietnam 151

B A R AT H O M E

Alfresco Drinking Silvio Daniele introduces levity to classic Italian drinks at Caffé Fernet. Negroni Fizz adapts to summer days with soda water and tangy lemon in place of orange peel. In the Lemon Cooler, limoncello adds zesty, lemon candy appeal to this satisfying thirst quencher.

NEGRONI FIZZ

INGREDIENTS 20ml gin 15ml sweet vermouth 15ml Campari 7.5ml lemon juice 5ml sugar syrup 10ml egg white Fresh strawberries Soda water

METHOD Shake all ingredients except soda in a cocktail shaker.

Strain into a tall glass with ice block.

Top up with soda water.

Serve with a garnish of sage leaf.

LEMON COOLER

15ml 15ml 7.5ml 30ml

limoncello gin lemon juice ginger ale

Pour all ingredients into a tall glass.

Add crushed ice.

Serve with a garnish of lemon slice.

152 epicurevietnam

PHOTOS: CHINO SARDEA

METHOD

WHO: Silvio Daniele, head bartender WHERE: Caffé Fernet AT: 70 Collyer Quay, #01-05 Customs House The sartorial bartender, Silvio Daniele, moves gracefully in his pink and white striped shirt and steel grey trousers. Lean and angular, gregarious and cheery, the Napoli native joined the Jigger & Pony Group six years ago. The culture of rotation works for him. He has thrown drinks at Gibson, and played a part in the creative force that is Asia’s No.1 Jigger & Pony. This year, he is taking on the Italian mainstay of the group, Caffé Fernet, known for its Negronis (and of course, cacio e pepe).

“I DON’T REALLY DRINK COCKTAILS.”

Surprisingly, Daniele is not a night person, nor does he enjoy drinking cocktails. He is a wine aficionado, preferring the ABC of Italian wine – Amarone, Barolo and Chianti. His other love is for well-tailored clothes, a passion his father passed on to him.

“Napoli is known for tailoring, especially the Neapolitan jacket. I have great memories of getting ready for school with my father fixing my tie in the morning. We always dress sharp no matter the occasion”, he says. Singapore might be too hot to wear ties, he admits, but when he does, he savours the moment.

THE LONDON HUBRIS

Daniele earned his spurs in the cocktail capital, London, at Social Eating House which is part of the Jason Atherton group. It was charged and intense, and he was SILVIO surrounded by ambitious people at the top of their game.

DANIELE “I thought I already reached the peak of my career,” he says. Singapore, with its exalted cocktail culture and creative zeal, brought about a welcome change of pace.

“Singapore made me realise that there is no ceiling to learning.”

At Caffé Fernet, Daniele takes into account the casual, breezy vibe and the picturesque backdrop of Marina Bay Sands.

He is designing a new menu around the Italian drinking culture, A CULTURE OF IDEAS but with a twist. “When it comes to drinks, I think that being too Daniele credits his company’s culture of exchanging ideas as the much tied to an Italian concept closes you a little bit in the box.” key to his learning in Singapore. He speaks highly of the group’s The new drinks are filed under six sections organised co-founder Indra Kantono who guides him on bar management under different times of the day – starting from “before lunch” and leadership. He says, “When it comes to leadership, Indra to “after dinner”. Expect refreshing watermelon margaritas has an extremely calm approach which is quite different from in addition to new riffs on the staple Negroni, as well as zesty what I’ve known before. He teaches me a side of F&B that I didn’t limoncello in the refreshing new Lemon Cooler. know before.” epicurevietnam 153

S E E N & S AVO U R E D

A CULINARY CAVIAR CELEBRATION

During the winter season, Caspiar Caviar Company owner Jonathan Dinh hosts the most exclusive, highly sought after, and sybaritic wine and dining experience in Vietnam: The Caviar Rave. With only three events per year, two located in Hanoi and one in Ho Chi Minh City, avid Vietnamese and international foodies in the know clammer for the opportunity to score the “golden ticket” confirmed reservation to this simply outrageous and beyond luxurious gastronomic extravaganza, crafted by the greatest culinary minds and chefs in the country.

T

his year’s Notte Italiana Caviar Rave in Saigon, the second event of the series, took place at Esta Saigon in District 1, and consisted of a beautifully designed, eleven course Italian tasting menu highlighting Caspiar Caviar Company’s range of products, and curated around the three Italian cooking elements of "Odori, Battuto, Soffritto".

As Chairman Dinh firmly believes that caviar is not meant to be utilized solely as a stand-alone garnish, but as an ingredient meant to elevate recipes, each dish featuring his brand was beautifully paired with a palate pleasing bite manifesting a total component synergy. Menu highlights included the opening Caviar Tasting of Imperial, Royal Oscietra and Amur Prestige, simply, yet masterfully, presented on artichoke leaves, and paired with an Artichoke Infused Spritz, the Cervello - Cabbage - Beluga Royal, coupled with a glass of Nicolas Potel Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru, the Veal Tonnato with Monkfish Liver, topped Imperial Caviar and served with Sencha Tea “Third Steep”, and the creamy and beyond luscious Tortellini with Sea Urchin, topped with a healthy dollop of Imperial and served with Bibi Graetz Scopetto.

15 4 epicurevietnam

To say that diners will find this culinary journey to be one of the best meals they have ever tasted in their lifetime is an understatement.

MOUTON CADET RÉSERVE SELECTION MASTERCLASS

BY JÉRÔME AGUIRRE

24th November 2022 at Sofitel Plaza Saigon, on the occasion of the visit of Mr Jérôme Aguirre – Director of Mouton Cadet Wines to introduce the new vintage release of reserve selection. Branded from iconic brand Baron Philippe de Rothschild, familyowned winery, which also owned Chateau Mouton de Rothschild & Wines, that almost all sommeliers & wine enthusiast have experienced.

epicurevietnam 155

WHERE TO FIND

• • • • • • • •

Hoiana Resort & Golf

HOTEL Ho Chi Minh • An Lam Saigon River • Caravelle • Chloe Gallery • Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon • Hotel Des Arts • Hotel Nikko Saigon • Intercontinental Asiana Saigon • Lotte Legend • Le Meridien Saigon • Mai House Saigon • Mia Saigon • New World Hotel • Norfolk Mansion • Novotel Saigon Centre • Oakwood Residence Saigon • Park Hyatt Saigon • Pullman Hotel • Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon • Rex Hotel • Saigon Prince Hotel • Sedona Suites • Sofitel Saigon Plaza • Sheraton Saigon Hotel • Sherwood Residence • Somerset Vista Hochiminh City • The Reverie Saigon • The Myst Dong Khoi • Villa Song Saigon • Windsor Plaza Hotel Con Dao • Poulo Condo • Sixsense Con Dao Nha Trang • An Lam Retreats Ninh Van Bay • Intercontinental Nha Trang • Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa • Sixsense Ninh Van Bay • The Anam Da Nang • Fusion Maia Danang • Furama Resort & Spa • Hyatt Regency Danang Resort And Spa • Intercontinental Da Nang

156 epicurevietnam

Hoi An • Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai Hue • Alba Wellness Resort • Banyan Tree Lang Co Ha Noi • Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake • Intercontinental Hanoi Landmark72 • JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi • Sheraton Hanoi Hotel • Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Phu Quoc • Fusion Resort Phuquoc • Hyatt Regency Nam Nghi Phu Quoc Island • Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort • JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa RESTAURANT Ho Chi Minh • An Vien Restaurant • Anh Tukk Modern Thai Cuisine • Argentinian Steakhouse El Gaucho • Au Lac Do Brazil Restaurant • Boomarang Bistro Saigon • L’usine Cafe & Restaurant • La Villa French Restaurant • Hoa Túc Restaurant • Moo Beefsteak • Opus Sai Gon • Pendolasco Restaurant • Uraetei Yakiniku Restaurant • Refinery Bar & Restaurant • San Fu Lou • Tandoor Vietnam • The Log Restaurant • Thai Cong Restaurant • Villa Royale Downtown Antiques & Tea Room • 3G Trois Gourmands Da Nang • Bushido Restaurant • Bistecca Restaurant Danang • Don Cipriani’s • El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse • Hai Cang Da Nang Restaurant

Mr. Anh Restaurant Nen Restaurant Olivia’s Prime Steakhouse Pizza 4p’s Hoang Van Thu Retro Kitchen and Bar The Rachel Restaurant The Temptation Restaurant Tra House & Bistro

Ha Noi • Bow Thai • Cloud Nine Restaurant • EMM’s French Bistro • Essence Restaurant • French Grill • Hanoi Garden Restaurant • Hanoi Ocean House • Hanoi Serene Cuisine Restaurant • La Fiorentina - Italian Restaurant • La Badiane • La Verticale • Madame Hien • Maison Vie Restaurant - Fine French Cuisine • Kimono Japanese Restaurant • Opera Garden Restaurant • T.U.N.G Dining • Red Bean Restaurant • Teddy’s American Grill House • Tunglok Heen AIRPORT Ho Chi Minh Tan Son Nhat International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Rose Lounge • Lotus Lounge 2 • Orchid Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Domestis Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Da Lat Lien Khuong International Airport • Lien Khuong Airport Nha Trang Cam Ranh International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Sun Coast Lounge Domestis Terminal • The Champ Lounge Ha Noi Noi Bai International Airport International Terminal • Song Hong Business Lounge Domestis Terminal • Song Hong Premium Lounge

WHERE TO BUY Ho Chi Minh • Phuong Nam Vincom Dong Khoi • Phuong Nam Saigon Centre • Phuong Nam An Phu Supermarket • Phuong Nam Estella Place • Phuong Nam Parkson Hung Vuong • Phuong Nam Vivo City • Phuong Nam Crescent Mall • Phuong Nam Vincom Le Van Viet • Phuong Nam Book City Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Book City Van Hanh Mall • Ca Chep Bookstore 211-213 Vo Van Tan, District 3 Ha Noi • Phuong Nam Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Lotte Center • Phuong Nam Mega Mall Royal City • Phuong Nam Vincom Ba Trieu • Phuong Nam Vincom Nguyen Chi Thanh Binh Duong • Phuong Nam Aeon Mall Binh Duong Dong Nai • Phuong Nam Vincom Bien Hoa • Phuong Nam 113-115 Dong Khoi Street, Tam Hiep Ward Da Lat • Phuong Nam Vincom Bao Loc • Phuong Nam Lien Khuong Airport • Phuong Nam 279 Phan Dinh Phung Street Nha Trang • Phuong Nam 17 Thai Nguyen Street, Phuoc Tan Ward Da Nang • Phuong Nam 153 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Phuoc Ninh Ward, Hai Chau District • Phuong Nam Vincom Da Nang • Phuong Nam Danang Airport Can Tho • Phuong Nam 06 Hoa Binh Street, An Cu Ward, Ninh Kieu District

Duke’s Oyster Bar

epicurevietnam 157

IF LUXURY IS YOUR LIFE, WE SPEAK YOUR LANGUAGE

@epicurevietnam

epicurevietnam.com

epicurevietnam

epicurevietnam

E P I C U R E L OV E S

GARDEN OF DELIGHTS A Botanical Atmosphere & Romanticism

I

Home is where the heart is. Gucci, the Italian iconic fashion brand, has released its latest line of luxurious home accessories featuring an eclectic collection of chairs, candles, cushions, blankets, and homewares through Gucci’s Décor campaign “A Garden of Delights”.

tems are paired with massive teapot- and armchair-shaped topiaries carved by Andy Hillman Studio and photograph

by Max Siedentopf to lend an eccentric and dreamlike atmosphere. The series was envisioned by the fashion house‘s creative director Alessandro Michele and brought to life by photographer and visual artist Max Siedentopf. The massive collection itself includes botanical porcelain tea sets, doublesided cushions, metal candles with lids, and jacquard armchairs.

1 60 epicurevietnam

Together, the objects recall the opulence of the Decorative Arts with their passementerie accents and intricate floral motifs.

Each piece is designed to customize your space and bring a touch of Gucci’s contemporary romanticism. Remaining true to the brand’s spirited nature, the collection presents luxurious pieces characterized by novel interpretations of archival floral prints and animal totems. Every token is unique with the idea to accent the living space tailored specifically to the person’s taste.

Urban Luxury Resort | Championship Golf | Lifestyle Destination

Molteni. Own your dream!

A symbiosis of traditional stoves and the most advanced technologies, Molteni is the instrument used by the virtuosi of great cooking.

These unique creations have been made to measure for you for nearly 80 years.

France, depuis 1923 www.molteni.com Molteni. We are part of the Electrolux family. Share more of our thinking at www.electrolux.com.