DEC 2023
FARM SUCCESSION PLANNING Science behind
Smoke Growers meet with government
2023
Grower survey +fruit reports
991 Salmon River Road, Salmon Arm
1429-1409 Teasdale Road, Kelowna
18555 Matsu Drive, Summerland Asking $13,900,000
Asking $4,995,000
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5th Generation Local | Okanagan Born and Raised | Finance & Real Estate Degree
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Lot A + B Oyama Road, Lake Country Asking $7,598,000
Land Assembly: 26.77 Acres total. 1327' of Lakeshore Lot A 12.97 (850' lakeshore frontage), Lot B 13.8 acres (477' lakeshore frontage), both cherry orchards with 1 acre building sites.
3626 Glencoe Road West Kelowna
15829 Greenhow Road Lake Country
Asking $7,999,999
Asking $3,595,000
Opportunity to acquire a turn-key Organic Winery on 11.317 Acres! Off the Grid Organic Winery is the #3 Trip Advisor destination in West Kelowna.
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3380 Neid Road, Kelowna Asking $3,700,000 Lakeview vineyard estate in South East Kelowna! 5361 sq. ft. home on 4.35 acres.
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SCOTT MARSHALL
PREC**
Scott@ScottMarshallHomes. com | 250-470-2388 WWW.KELOWNAFARMS.CA | WWW.KELOWNAACREAGES.COM | WWW.SCOTTMARSHALLHOMES.COM
Great Grandfather Lewis Marshall living in a tent on his first orchard in the Glenmore area of Kelowna.
Grandfather Rexford Marshall next to newly planted orchard in the Carrs Landing area of Lake Country.
Father Lance next to nursery stock in the Carrs Landing area of Lake Country.
Professional Representation of Buyers and Sellers for Horticultural, Farm, Acreage and Estate properties throughout the Valley
Scott Marshall was born and raised in the Central Okanagan and is part of the 5th generation of his family to live in the beautiful Okanagan Valley. The Marshall Family has a proud history in fruit farming in the Central and North Okanagan since 1911, while the Thorlakson side of the family started farming in the North Okanagan in the late 1800s. Scott's parents operated large orchards and nursery plantings, and he grew up with them working in the Okanagan Real Estate market. After completing four years of formal education at the University of British Columbia, Scott received a BCOM in Finance and Real Estate before becoming a licensed REALTOR® and Associate Broker at RE/MAX Kelowna. Since becoming licensed, Scott has quickly become a natural expert in the Horticultural, Viticultural, Farm, Acreage, Estate and Unique Property market. Scott has been able to professionally assist his valued clients so that when they are successful in their real estate buying or selling, he has also been able to be successful and is ranked as the #1 Individual Realtor at his brokerage.* Scott is uniquely qualified to effectively assist with the purchase and sale of Horticultural, Farm, Acreage, Estate and Unique Properties throughout the Okanagan. To take advantage of five generations of valued agricultural experience in the Okanagan, call Scott Marshall for your farm property needs!
Scott training young cherry trees in the Black Mountain area of Kelowna.
“
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Great Great Grandfather Thorlakur Thorlakson harvesting grain near Predator Ridge in Vernon.
FIVE GENERATIONS OF FAMILY EXPERIENCE IN THE OKANAGAN
In today's market, marketing reach, industry connections, and a sales history that speaks for itself has never been more important.
I'm not afraid to get my boots dirty.
*As per 2021 production for individual agents. **Personal Real Estate Corporation. As per RE/MAX internal statistics 2021 by commissions paid. E & OE: Information is deemed to be correct but not guaranteed.
27 9 10
CONTENTS Voices | Publisher News & Events
18 Fire & Wine: Smoky skies challenge vintners 22 2023 Fruit Report: Growers face challenges 27 2023 Grape Report: Millions needed for grape crop renewal
22 14 6 orchardandvine.net 8
34 Commercial history of wine 38
Seeds of Growth | Growers meet with government leaders
40
Marketing Mix | Your winter to-do list
41
Word on Wine | Fall campaign inspires community support
42
Sippin’ Pretty | Laughing Stock Vineyards
44
Money Matters | Farm succession planning
46
Canadian Winemaker Series | Marcus Ansems From top: Grapes ripen at the vineyards in Abbotsford at Singletree Winery; Raspberries faced thrips damage in 2023; Winemaker Caroline Schaller oversaw harvests at Montalvino Wineries. Cover: Owner and winemaker John Glavina checks the vines at Giant Head Estate in Summerland. Photo credits: Cover courtesy of Wine Growers British Columbia; top photo by Justine Russo.
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VOICES | PUBLISHER
Established in 1959 ISSN 1713-5362 ISSN 2817-500X
Vol. 64, No 6 Year End Issue | December 2023 Publisher/Editor Yvonne Turgeon Associate Editor Ronda Payne Design Mishell Raedeke Contributing writers Vincent Fournier, Leeann Froese, Kelly Josephson, Glen Lucas, Geoff McIntyre, Ronda Payne, Yvonne Turgeon, David Wylie Contributing photographers Jon Adrian, Ronda Payne, Justine Russo, Myrna Stark Leader, Chris Stenberg, Lionel Trudel, Yvonne Turgeon Orchard & Vine Magazine is published six times a year and distributed by addressed mail to growers, suppliers and wineries in the Okanagan, Kootenays, Fraser Valley, Lower Mainland, Vancouver Island, Washington State and across Canada.
Subscriptions Subscriptions are available in print and digital format at orchardandvine.net or contact us at info@orchardandvine.net. Social | web @orchardvinemag orchardandvine.net Office: 250-448-2630 Email: info@orchardandvine.net. news@orchardandvine.net Publications Mail Agreement No. 40838008 Return undeliverable items to: Orchard & Vine Magazine 5190 MacNeill Crt Peachland, BC V0H 1X2 All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form, print or electronic, without the written permission of the publisher. Ideas and opinions expressed in the magazine do not necessarily represent the views of Before & After Media or its affiliates. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement or sponsored content in this publication. Orchard & Vine Magazine is published by Before & After Media Inc. Find them on the web at beforeaftermedia.com.
Confusion over consumption
F
amilies change. We journey, we age and suddenly there are new faces at the table when we gather. Recently, arriving at a restaurant, we were swept up in a flurry of welcoming hugs and requests for chairs, plates and of course, glasses. We settle and wine is poured. Before the chatter, the sharing of stories and the ordering of the feast, we raise our glasses together. One of Canada’s biggest sporting events has brought us across the country, but honestly, it hasn’t been that long since we gathered. It’s my third Canadian province in less than three months to join family in celebration— some with birthday cake, and all with food and wine. The faces around the table, the occasions that bring us together and even the days of the week change but wine remains. A few days ago, I pulled a beef roast from the oven, served up two supper plates and opened a lovely Okanagan bold red. It was a Monday. I step back to reflect on this “miraculous” drink. Wine has shaped human development, touching aspects of both health and culture. The vine, remarkably resilient, bears fruit in the most extreme conditions, thriving where water is scarce, like in the desert landscapes of the Middle East. For centuries, in an age when clean, potable water was often hard to come by, wine was safe to drink. But today, the abstinence campaigners are making us question, “Is wine safe for us?” Certain groups propose a “no safe level” stance regarding alcohol consumption, implying that any amount of alcohol may pose risks. This viewpoint is shaping policy, leading to calls for a significant reduction in the weekly drinking limits to merely two drinks — a dramatic drop from the earlier guidelines of 14 for men and 10 for women. As the opening panelists at the recent Fortify conference held in Penticton stressed, the debate about staying sober is now quite sobering for those in the wine, cider and spirits industry in Canada. For years, the narrative around alcohol and health primarily centered on addressing excessive drinking. As Financial Post writer Peter Shawn Taylor reminds us in his Raise a glass to the J-Curve! article, beverage lovers and medical professionals alike have long been in agreement that there’s a “sweet spot” to imbibing. Studies have consistently shown that moderate drinkers tend to be as healthy, if not slightly healthier, than non-drinkers. This phenomenon is elegantly depicted as a “J-curve” in scientific studies. Put mortality risk on the vertical axis and number of drinks per day on the horizontal and the curve dips, like a “J,” before rising. “As a cardiologist, I can tell you that there are hundreds of well-done studies that repeatedly show a J-curve,” says Martin Juneau, professor of Medicine at Université de Montréal. This J-curve presents a serious obstacle to the efforts of the Canadian Centre for Substance Use and Addiction (CCSA) to scare Canadians into thinking every drink they take brings them closer to the grave. “I think they did a little cherry-picking,” said Junea of the research approach. “I think they selected papers that confirmed their theory.” Wine industry leaders can look to the Canadian Association for Responsible Drinkers (CARD), a collective of concerned citizens and businesses to find unbiased, science-backed information to help inform the debate. — Yvonne Turgeon, publisher
yvonne@orchardandvine.net
YearEnd 2023 |
9
■ NEWS & EVENTS
The Okanagan Crush Pad team celebrates its silver IWCA status: chief winemaker Matt Dumayne, winemaker Kat D’Costa, founder Christine Coletta and GM Craig Pingle.
Summerland winery makes strides in supporting environment Okanagan Crush Pad Winery (OCP) deepens its commitment to the environment with two new steps. It is the first Canadian winery to garner silver membership with International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA) and is the first winery to convert to Fortis BC’s renewable natural gas program. IWCA is aligned with the United Nations’ Race to Zero campaign and as the 26th silver member in the organization, OCP is committed to reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Its goal is to achieve a 33 percent reduction in emissions by 2030 and net-zero by 2050. A rigorous ISO-14064 audited baseline greenhouse gas inventory was completed to achieve silver membership. Converting to the Fortis program reduces greenhouse gas emissions through renewable natural gas derived from decomposed organic waste. The program is made possible through partnerships with farms, landfills and green energy companies. OCP’s commitment to the environment starts with its founder, Christine Coletta and continues through all staff, especially winemaker Kat D’Costa, who has earned the title of sustainability officer. General manager Craig Pingle is also part of the leadership in ensuring the winery’s sustainability efforts stay top of mind and top of action lists. ■
Short-term rentals targeted by province’s new legislation The B.C. government’s new legislation to regulate short-term rentals is a double-edged sword. No one disputes the shortage of affordable housing in the province, but solutions and limitations are debated. “Tourism can’t function without tourism workers,” said Premier David Eby in an October statement about the legislation. “The number of short-term rentals in B.C. has ballooned in recent years, removing thousands of long-term homes from the market. That’s why we’re taking strong action to rein in profit-driven mini-hotel operators, create new enforcement tools and return homes to the people who need them.” But tourism representatives are concerned that without accommodations for visitors, there will be no need for tourism workers. Bringing more rentals into long-term accommodations benefits agriculture with farm worker housing, however, those reliant on tourism income from guest suites may be at risk depending on the structure and location. Generally, municipalities of 10,000 or more fall under the new regulations. The principal residence requirement (taking effect May 1, 2024) limits short-term rentals (less than 90 days) to the host’s principal residence plus one other suite in the residence or on the same property. The flip side is that existing Agricultural Land Commission (ALC) regulations state wineries can offer up to four tourist sleeping units (no cooking) in a primary residence on the property plus another 10 on the property. It’s an interesting opportunity where in-vineyard B-and-B accommodations may create a unique tourist experience. Business licenses will need to be displayed on shortterm rental platforms like Vrbo, Airbnb and Expedia. In the summer of 2024, data sharing from these platforms will be implemented and by late 2024, once operational, property owners will need to register through the provincial registry. ■ Sleeping-only accommodations in the vineyard may become a welcome tourism trend.
Top photo by Lionel Trudel; Lake Country photo courtesy of Wine Growers British Columbia
10 orchardandvine.net
New Canadian apple variety collaboration Vineland Research and Innovation Centre is working with the Associated International Group of Nurseries (AIGN) to create more consumerappealing, commercial varieties of apples. Apples, one of Canada’s most important fruit crops, lead the sector Dr. Ian Potter, in overall fruit president and CEO of Vineland Research and production Innovation Centre and top the list of the country’s most exported fruits. “This distinctive collaboration has the potential, not only to maximize our breeding efforts and benefit the Ontario and Canadian apple sector but also to increase the Canadian apple selections most popular with consumers in Canada and around the world,” said Vineland president and CEO, Ian Potter. Potter stresses that collaborations focusing on new consumer-driven Canadian apple varieties are an essential aspect of the product innovation life cycle for both local consumers and those abroad. The collaboration marries AIGN’s tree production and commercial development expertise with Vineland’s research, innovation and intellectual property management skills. AIGN is a world leader in intellectual property management of tree fruits with networks in all major growing regions of the world. As Vineland’s exclusive collaborator on new cultivars, AIGN is looking forward to bringing new varieties through Vineland’s breeding program. ■
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YearEnd 2023 |
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■ NEWS & EVENTS
Vineyards battle grapevine trunk diseases with innovative research Grape growers in the Okanagan Valley face a recurring challenge each year. The grapevine trunk diseases (GTD) stand out as a particularly relentless adversary among the various diseases that threaten their vineyards. GTD, a complex disease caused by multiple fungal pathogens, sneaks into grapevine plants mainly through pruning wounds. Once inside, the fungi hijack the plant’s vascular system, curbing its water and nutrient intake. The slow spread of this infection often means that by the time growers detect it, effective treatment becomes a distant hope. Enter José Ramón Úrbez-Torres, a plant pathologist at Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada (AAFC). His groundbreaking research aims to offer B.C. grape growers a sustainable solution to the GTD conundrum. Harnessing nature to combat GTD One of the promising strategies emerging from the lab revolves around using fungi to fight fungi. Biological control, an eco-friendly and cost-effective tactic, introduces a pest’s natural enemy into the mix. At the Summerland Research and Development Centre, over 30 strains of fungi from the Trichoderma genus underwent rigorous testing against GTD. A collaboration with AAFC research affiliate Jinxz Pollard-Flamand under the guidance of both Úrbez-Torres and Miranda Hart of UBC Okanagan revealed a handful of these strains to be promising warriors against the disease. “The next step will be to develop a biological control product from these fungi, which will be the first of its kind against this disease in Canada,” says Úrbez-Torres. A bonus for the local growers? These fungi are native to B.C., paving the way for a homegrown solution that sidesteps the issues tied to chemical fungicides.
A canker in a grapevine plant caused by grapevine trunk diseases (GTD).
Rethinking Traditional Practices Beyond biocontrol, a holistic strategy is on the cards. ÚrbezTorres and his team have pinpointed certain conditions that enable the disease. One key insight: early pruning, specifically in January rather than March, can slash the risk of GTD infection by a staggering 80 percent. Furthermore, the team has rolled out guidelines for grape growers. These cover the identification of infected plants, precise pruning to curb the infection and techniques of “remedial surgery”—giving the grapevine a rejuvenating second lease on life. For growers, the implications are profound. Plants are back in production in roughly three to four years, sparing them the hefty costs and effort of replanting. “It’s very difficult to fully eradicate the disease,” says Úrbez-Torres. “But our aim? To constantly refine strategies, ensuring growers lose fewer plants each year.” ■
Winter vine damage and crop losses bring closures The December 2022 cold snap in the Okanagan Valley caused unfortunate, yet anticipated, reductions in yields, putting some B.C. wineries in difficult positions. On Oct. 8, Red Rooster Winery on the Naramata Bench closed and on Oct. 12, Covert Farms Family Estate of Oliver announced the end of wine tastings and other visitor experiences. Founded by Beat and Prudence Mahrer, Red Rooster Winery has been a mainstay on the Okanagan wine circuit. It was acquired by Andrew Peller Limited in 2005.
The Facebook post from Red Rooster read, “We will be closing onsite operations... caused by an unprecedented winter event that damaged our Okanagan vineyards.” However, the winery assured, “We’re committed to delivering the exceptional wines that you know and love.” Production of Red Rooster’s wines will shift to Sandhill in Kelowna. Covert Farms Family Estate also used Facebook to announce changes. “Like so many other businesses, ours has been faced with significant challenges over the past several years.
From Covid and wildfires to highway closures and rising costs, it has become clear that it is no longer economically viable to operate as we have been. These challenges have given our family the opportunity to come together and reflect on the future of our business. With my husband Gene and I now thinking about succession planning, and our children having decided to not take over the winery business, we have made the decision to scale back our operations.” Covert Farms will continue to produce its regeneratively-made wines. ■ Photos contributed
12 orchardandvine.net
Apple plant opens in Washington Okanagan Specialty Fruits, the creators of Arctic apples, unveiled its new 110,000 square foot processing facility in Moses Lake, Washington this September. The facility has the ability to process more than 50 million pounds of apples per year thanks to technology and design. Design is also key to the adjacent controlledatmosphere storage facility, which is set to be completed in early 2024. Once fully built, the company can store, process and pack more than 100,000 bins of Arctic apples. The plant is located 30 minutes from the orchards. “We’ve redefined what it means to process apples in North America,” says founder Neal Carter. “Our Moses Lake facility is a game-changer in efficiency and bringing us closer to our orchards. When the controlled atmosphere facility is finished, every step from the orchard to the package of Arctic apples will happen right here.” The facility is expected to employ over 100 individuals initially. Okanagan Specialty Fruits has 1,250 acres of Washington-grown Arctic Fuji, Arctic Golden and Arctic Granny apples in production. Arctic Gala will be the next variety for the company, followed by Arctic Honey and Arctic Pink. The company says what sets Arctic apples apart is their ability to stay orchard-fresh for up to 28 days. The novel tree fruit varieties were developed through bioengineering. ■
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■ NEWS & EVENTS
New Canadian-developed snowflake apple enters market Algoma Orchards, headquartered near Newcastle, Ontario, has partnered with Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada (AAFC) to bring consumers a uniquely Canadian apple. The non-GMO Snowflake apple has rosy-red skin, much like the glowing cheeks of those who delight in Canadian winters, and is dusted with delicate white snowflake-like lenticels. Its snow-white flesh is juicy, crisp and sweet with a hint of tartness, besting long-time consumer favourite Honeycrisp in blind taste tests. Canadian retailers and consumers will both benefit from this winter apple’s excellent storage attributes in the supermarket and the home. Algoma Orchards, with a lineage of apple farming dating back over a century, is at the forefront of introducing the Snowflake apple to Canadian markets. This initiative is a cooperative effort with AAFC’s tree fruit breeding program, a venture with its own rich history beginning in 1924. The breeding program at AAFC’s Summerland Research and Development Centre in British Columbia evaluates 30,000 unique apple varieties annually, ensuring only the finest are selected for introduction to the market. “At Algoma, we take pride in searching out the best varieties to grow,” says president Kirk Kemp.
Canada’s latest apple variety, Snowflake, has rosy-red skin, snow-white sweet flesh and excellent storage attributes.
“We partner with our retail customers so they in turn can excite their customers with new, great-tasting varieties. The Snowflake apple is a great example of this collaboration.” Algoma has exclusive Canadian growing and marketing rights and has given six other Canadian growers licences. ■
South Okanagan winery family appoints new winemaker Montalvino Wineries appointed Caroline Schaller as its winemaker for the family of Okanagan wineries in August. With nearly 25 years of winemaking experience, Schaller brings her expertise to three properties within the organization: Uppercase Winery in Okanagan Falls, gadZook Vinery in Oliver and High Note Estate Winery on Naramata Bench. She oversaw all three locations’ 2023 harvests. Schaller has been recognized as a knight for her contributions to agriculture by the Ordre du Mérite Agricole by the French Ministry of Agriculture and is among just a handful of those in B.C. to have attained the award. Born and raised in Toulouse, France, she completed her master’s degree in plant chemistry and biology before moving onto her oenology degree.
Caroline Schaller, Montalvino Wineries winemaker
Agriculture is of great importance to her as she sees herself as a winegrower rather than a winemaker. “For me, it starts in the vineyard, which is really where the wine is made,” she says.
Her winemaking experience is diverse, having worked at Pine Ridge in Napa Valley, Viña Leyda in San Antonio, Chile, and three locations in France before coming to the Okanagan Valley in 2017, where she was winemaker and general manager with Osoyoos Larose before moving to Rainmaker Wines as winemaker. “The chance to steward nine estate vineyards at Montalvino, each with its own distinctive terroir and exceptional potential, is what made this such an exciting opportunity,” she says. In commenting about the harvests, she notes the quality of the grapes was high, even if the yields were reduced by the winter damage that has hampered many other Okanagan vineyards. “We’re really excited by what we’re tasting in the cellar,” Schaller says. ■ Photos contributed
14 orchardandvine.net
Wine grape harvests down world-wide Canada’s wine grape growers may be tired of hearing about B.C.’s harsh cold snap in December 2022 and other national weather events that negatively impacted 2023’s production levels, but there can be some sense of comfort in knowing that grape yields were down around the world according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine. In November, Giorgio Delgrosso, head of Statistics and Digital Transformation spoke from the organization’s headquarters in Dijon, France to announce an anticipated seven percent decrease for the 2023 global harvest. Italy and Spain were hard hit with significant decreases from 2022 levels. Southern hemisphere producers like Australia, Argentina, Chile, South Africa and Brazil were also greatly impacted due to adverse weather. The exception was New Zealand, which has a higher than five-year average harvest for 2023. Like New Zealand, harvests in the United States, so far, appear to be higher than 2022 and the last few years. France was slightly above its five-year average. The organization’s statement notes, “This would be the smallest production since 1961, even lower than the historically small production volume of 2017. This negative scenario can be attributed to significant declines in major wine-producing countries in both Hemispheres.” Information from some large producers like China has not yet been available, so there is an outside chance that worldwide production numbers won’t be as low as they currently appear. Data is based on information from 29 key wine-producing countries. These countries represent 94 percent of the world’s wine production. ■
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■ NEWS & EVENTS Blueberries may soon be grown year-round with the help of competition-driven advancements.
Second stage of funding for berries awarded across Canada
I
n the fall, eleven teams passed into the second stage of competition towards making year-round berries a reality in Canada. These teams can’t bring their developments to market without money, so they leapt into action when, in early 2022, the Weston Family Foundation announced $33 million dollars towards the sustainable production of berries
through the Homegrown Innovation Challenge. One of the secondstage teams’ principal applicants, Jim Mattsson, professor of plant functional genomics at Simon Fraser University, thinks his team’s gene editing methods will help blueberries adapt to indoor growing while they identify optimal environmental conditions for plant health and yields.
“The goal is a highintensity production system that will yield fresh, pesticide-free blueberries at scale outside the traditional Canadian growing season,” his summary says. Spanning six years, the funding from the challenge is awarded to participating teams as they successfully progress through three levels of competition. There were 60 applicants competing
for a spot in the first round — the Spark Phase. The top team at the end of the competition could receive up to $8 million. Recently, the top 15 grantees that made it to the Spark Phase were narrowed down to 11 for the Shepherd Phase. These second-level teams were awarded up to $1 million to develop and demonstrate a small-
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scale proof of concept of their system. Joshua Pearce is the principal applicant from Western University. As a solar energy expert, his team is aiming to optimize the sun to support indoor and outdoor growing. The system combines an indoor vertical farm with a shielded outdoor farm. “This dual-environment approach could one day even generate power for non-agricultural use and be attached to retail locations to provide a zero-mile food supply,” his summary says. He defines the key as “specialized solar panels that both allow the transmission of natural light to plants underneath while also producing electrical energy.” Teams that make it to the third and final phase —the Scaling Phase—will be announced in late 2024. These top four teams will be awarded up to $5 million to build and demonstrate their systems at a farm scale. This will confirm their concept to produce berries yearround and stay within the cost and input parameters defined in the trial stage. The nine other secondstage teams include Ontario Tech University with an
energy-efficient controlled environment agriculture facility; Université Laval with an integrated aeroponic strawberry production system; University of Guelph with an autonomous AIcontrolled greenhouse; Collège Boréal with thermal-management technology for strawberries; Bishop’s University with renewable energy for greenhouses; Kwantlen Polytechnic with AI robots for pesticide-free berries in glasshouses; University of Ottawa with microbepowered vertical farming; Toronto Metropolitan University with a microclimate controlled growing system and University of Guelph with efficient LED-lit vertical farming. The Weston Family Foundation researched Canadians’ understanding of domestic food production. “Like many countries, Canada is heavily reliant on imported fresh fruits and vegetables; we bring in nearly 80 percent of our fresh produce,” the organization’s website says. “The study found that 65 percent of Canadians underestimate the proportion of fruits and vegetables imported from foreign countries.” ■
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YearEnd 2023 |
17
Fire & Wine $133
54
million
percent
Direct revenue lost this year due to climaterelated setbacks
Estimated reduction in 2023 crops
Smoky skies challenge vintners Smoke settled into valleys and vineyards has become an unpleasantly familiar feature of Okanagan summers.
BY DAVID WYLIE
A
s wildfires in B.C. increase in frequency and intensity, winemakers are struggling with “smoke taint” while businesses and academics work on solutions. The amount of scorched ground in B.C. caused by wildfires in 2023 set a new record, with more than 28,000 square kilometres burned — that’s double the previous record from 2018. Consistently smoky summers are manifesting themselves in recent vintages by permeating and altering the flavour of grapes.
Robert Kwakernaak, who owns Cellar Dweller Mobile Filter Services, estimates the company treated up to 3.5 million litres for smoke taint in 2021. This year, he expects some Okanagan wineries to be impacted by nearby wildfires. Kwakernaak says you may not taste smoke taint immediately. However, after a few sips, the ashy or burnt taste becomes apparent. “It does really build in the pallet,” he says. “It’s difficult to make wine that is of the quality of the wine it would be if no smoke taint occurred.”
Kwakernaak says smoke taint affects red wines more than whites. There are two main treatments for wines that are affected, he says. The first separates molecules through reverse osmosis and carbon filter; a technique that’s been used for decades. The second is a patented technology that uses molecularly imprinted polymers to target and remove specific molecules. Kwakernaak has acquired a license from New Zealand firm, Amaea, which developed the tech. Both treatments are used on fermented wine, rather than on juice. He says both methods are an effective path forward in a bad situation. Photo by Myrna Stark-Leader
18 orchardandvine.net
“It’s important to notice that just because these chemical markers of smoke taint are there and can be measured or tasted, that doesn’t mean you have a tainted product.”
Providing Canadian Grapevine Solutions
BRITISH COLUMBIA 250-809-6040 bcsales@vinetech.ca
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— Wesley Zandberg Associate professor of Chemistry, University of British Columbia, Okanagan campus
“There’s no single way to deal with smoke taint and lots of opinions,” he says. “It’s hard to separate only molecules that are responsible for smoke taint and leave every other molecule there.” University of British Columbia, Okanagan campus, associate professor of chemistry, Wesley Zandberg, collaborated on research published earlier this year in the journal Molecules looking at how wines are being tested for smoke taint. Researchers suggested a better chemical marker for predicting smoke taint. They sent ten Okanagan wines from 2018, all perceptibly influenced by smoke exposure, to nine labs. They also sent model wines that were deliberately fortified with concentrations of chemicals linked to the aroma of smoke. All laboratories had very similar and accurate results in calculating the concentrations of generally accepted markers of smoke taint, including guaiacol and 4-methyl guaiacol. However, they had much lower accuracies in calculating concentrations for other volatile phenols — particularly for free cresols, a class of related compounds.
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YearEnd 2023 |
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In this haunting photograph captured from Tantalus Vineyards in Kelowna, the August sky of 2023 is transformed into a canvas of ominous beauty. The once-clear expanse is now dominated by billowing plumes of smoke, casting an eerie veil over the landscape.
“Winemaking has never been an industry for the faint of heart—resilience is a prerequisite.” — Miles Prodan president and CEO, Wine Growers British Columbia
“It’s important to notice that just because these chemical markers of smoke taint are there and can be measured or tasted, that doesn’t mean you have a tainted product,” says Zandberg. “That’s why it’s important to distinguish between smoke-tainted and smoke-affected wine. Just because smoke can be perceived doesn’t mean necessarily the wine is tainted, since this can be subjective.” The BC Wine Grape Council says smoke taint has been identified by industry members as a high priority research subject and that research from Zandberg has acknowledged a number of important points:
•
Ash on grapes does not guarantee smoke taint (nor does the absence of ash mean there won’t be smoke taint)
•
Washing the fruit after exposure to smoke will not decrease the risk of smoke taint
•
Testing for smoke taint marker compounds can be done right after exposure
•
There is no evidence smoke taint will affect future fruit from impacted vines
Meanwhile, Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) is asking B.C. residents to support
local wine producers as climate change causes havoc for vintners. They’ve projected $133 million in direct revenue lost this year due to climate-related setbacks, with the estimated 54 percent reduction in 2023 crops. They also foresee longer-term damage to 45 percent of the total planted acreage. On top of that, WGBC says the record-breaking wildfire season impacted tourism in wine country. “Winemaking has never been an industry for the faint of heart—resilience is a prerequisite,” says WGBC president and CEO, Miles Prodan. “However, these setbacks are temporary. We’ve always been fortunate to have enormous support for the wines of B.C. from local consumers and with them behind us, we know the industry will overcome these challenges. We’re looking forward to an exciting future for B.C. wine.” There are nearly 350 licensed grape wine wineries in the province. ■
Machine photo courtesy of Cellar Dweller; Kelowna photo courtesy of Tantalus Vineyards.
20 orchardandvine.net
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Each year, Orchard & Vine surveys berry, tree-fruit and grape growers, sharing their observations and insights in this annual harvest and wine production round-up.
THE
2023
HARVEST
REPORTS
22 orchardandvine.net
THE
2023 FRUIT REPORT
Fruit growers face challenges The growing season was defined by many issues that challenged the positivity of farmers BY RONDA PAYNE
E
very growing season brings winners and losers, and 2023 reminded all growers that it doesn’t take much to flip the balance and create exceptional challenges. From winter damage to thrips; lower prices to increasing costs, even the most consistent crops saw trials this year. Persistence and perseverance remain essential qualities for growers. Raspberries report good yields After many seasons of coming out behind, raspberries were the winner among berries in 2023 in B.C. David Mutz of Berry Haven Farm in Abbotsford notes blueberries and strawberries were both a struggle. “The cane berries were the winner: the raspberries and blackberries,” he says. “Pricing is down on raspberries, especially the processed, but yield was up. Some people, ourselves included, did quite well in raspberries.” James Bergen of Bergen Farms
agreed that most raspberry varieties did better this year than previously and felt pricing was good on fresh varieties. However, thrips was a major issue. Sometimes found in cane berries, the volume seen in raspberries this season was exceptional and led to the discolouration strawberries often face that makes fruit unsaleable. “Everyone saw thrips this year,” Bergen says. “You don’t often see them to the level that they do damage like they did this year, with the bronzing fruit. It’s never been a concern because they’ve never damaged the crop.” Raspberry growers will have an increase in levies from one cent to two cents per pound—the first in close to 10 years. Strawberries had a difficult season. The early crop was disappointing and the later crop was just “okay” according to Bergen. Blueberries were disappointing as well. Mutz notes the interest in exporting
“The cane berries were the winner: the raspberries and blackberries. Pricing is down on raspberries, especially the processed, but yield was up.” — David Mutz, Berry Haven Farm, Abbotsford, B.C.
blueberries to foreign markets has cooled somewhat as growers don’t want to commit to the handpicking required. “Scorch virus in blueberries is still the ongoing issue,” he says. “Of all the crops, I think blueberries had the toughest go. The yield wasn’t there and the market wasn’t there.” Blueberries were small which contributed to the low yield, but the quality of the berries was good. Growth in a berry black horse? As a fringe crop, blackberries are doing well. It is a specialty, hand-picked berry, but for those willing to make the effort, there could be potential.
Photos contributed
YearEnd 2023 |
23
THE
2023 FRUIT REPORT
“We had a good crop,” Bergen says. “If we could find a processed variety that would machine harvest and still keep the quality, I think that would entice some people to jump on board.” He says pricing for frozen blackberries was above average. Cranberry receiving stations swamped Cranberries saw a good harvest according to Mike Wallis, executive director with the BC Cranberry Growers Association.
“It was the highest volume in five years,” he says. “The receiving stations were swamped and backed up this year.” The warm, dry weather improved pollination and made for a good crop, but growers without reliable irrigation were challenged. Water woes Mutz highlights the summer’s good growing conditions, but notes the anxiety among growers due to government requests to cut water usage by 50 percent. In August, the Lower Mainland region reached drought level 5. “I hope people tried as much as possible,” he says.
Growers survey
This year, my business was challenged by: Fire/Smoke
25%
High interest rates
Weather events
25%
Very
Stone fruit dependent upon location Steven Souto, president of Steve and Dan’s Fresh BC Fruit felt that peaches were impacted due to drier weather. “We started having complaints on peaches,” he says. “The last picking of every variety was drier. You would have to sell them within two to three days of picking; it was a very weird year.” While pricing on the stone fruits was “fair” in his estimation, he is seeing a problem in nectarines. “There’s a disease. A lot of the nectarine trees are dying,” he says. “And there’s the problem that you can’t get trees. The wait list is forever.” His apricots were hit by hail and sustained minor damage, but it seemed confined to the south Okanagan.
Very
50% Slightly
25%
50% Slightly
Not at all
25%
Slightly
50%
Not at all
25%
Moderately
24 orchardandvine.net
25%
Moderately
25% of growers experienced
Drought/dry weather
THE
2023 FRUIT REPORT
Storms hit apples For Parm Dhaliwal, hail in the South Okanagan caused damage in apples. “Our family’s been farming here a long time, I’ve never seen a hail event that late,” he says. “That was isolated, but you see these events happening.” Souto says it’s too early to tell how his apple crop will shape up and whether there will be smoke damage, but so far, it looks good. “I think the pears look great too,” he says. Poor for table grapes Table grape growers were impacted in similar ways, though at lesser degrees, to wine grape growers and Alan Wikenheiser who does field work for the Okanagan Table Grape Growers Association says yields were about The Gill family, operators of Farming Karma, has been apple orchardists in the B.C. Interior for over 30 years.
Supply issues (access to seed/plants, fertilizer)
50% Not at all
Diseases/pests
Shortage of agricultural workers
33% 17% 25% 25% Slightly
Moderately
Slightly
25% Not at all
50% Slightly
Not at all
Are you planning action to help mitigate the effects of climate change?
33%
Already taking action We didn’t have t oo many challenges this year. Priority: Irrigation management
25%
Moderately
33% 33% No
Planning
Photo courtesy of Farming Karma.
YearEnd 2023 |
25
THE
2023 FRUIT REPORT
a third of what they’ve been in previous years. “It was a very, very poor season,” he says. “We’ve had three difficult winters. We’re not even sure if some of the effects of last year will come out further down the road.” While table grapes are hardy and don’t have a lot of pests, growers are facing the same challenges as other fruit growers. “The quantity was down so bad and costs have gotten out of hand,” he says. “It’s very labour intensive. A lot of hand work.”
Cherries face fruit fly worm If growers missed their control sprays, fruit fly worm was a major issue in cherries, Souto says. Fortunately, he hit his timing right and the biggest issue was an overabundance of fruit. “A lot went to juice, more than normal because it was such a heavy crop, the trees weren’t doing as well,” he says. “Pricing was good for us because of the volume, but it goes along with the U.S. market and at the end of
the season the U.S. market dropped like crazy.” Dhaliwal’s cherry crop was lighter than usual because of the December cold snap, but fruit quality was good, without the rains that often cause splitting. “It was of good quality, but the market was saturated,” he says. “I feel like the price that the grocery stores got wasn’t reflected.” ■
With good yields and pricing for frozen blackberries, this fringe fruit market may attract new growers.
Cherries
What crop produced the best for you this year? Apples
Peaches
Blueberries
In what ways do you sell your produce?
40%
20%
To a packinghouse/ distributor
Farmgate
Will you continue to grow fruit this next season?
100%
40%
Farmer’s Market/ offsite market
YES
Types of value-added products Cider & Vinegar
26 orchardandvine.net
THE
2023 GRAPE REPORT
Millions needed for grape crop renewal BY DAVID WYLIE
U
npredictable climate was again the antagonist for B.C. grape growers—wreaking havoc with damaging deep freeze and massive interface wildfires. The 2023 harvest was impacted long before it even had a chance to start. Winter struck unexpectedly early in November 2022 and it didn’t let up, chilling vines that hadn’t had a chance to harden against the elements. A December deep-freeze furthered damage to vines throughout the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys. Rob Hammersley, owner and winemaker at Black Market Wine Co. in Kaleden, says his vineyard was badly damaged by the cold. “It’s a crying shame because we had an almost perfect growing season this year. If we didn’t have that winter damage, this would have been the harvest of a century,” says Hammersley. Much of the damage to crops was done in early November when there was a sudden switch from warm fall days to snowstorms and sub-zero temperatures. Some of the growers Hammersley works with hadn’t even harvested yet when the snow flew, he says. “The trouble with grapevines and our climate is we need to stretch
the season as long as we possibly can to get the proper amount of growing degree days and hangtime for fruit ripeness,” he says. “Last year was the perfect storm for what can go wrong in that case. When you have vines that have not been harvested, they don’t really have any time to start their shutdown procedures to get them dormant and winter hardy.” He calls December’s severe cold—down to -30°C in some places—“salt in the wound.” Vines can only withstand to -22°C before suffering damage or death. Black Market held off doing most of their early pruning until after buds began to appear this spring to avoid clipping off any living plant material. That strategy, along with great growing conditions, helped them achieve their highest yield in three years—with the earliest harvest they’ve seen in 10 years, starting on Sept. 1 and finishing a full month ahead of their usual schedule. That’s despite seeing between 50 to 60 percent primary bud death in their Merlot block from the disastrous cold spell, says Hammersley. “Mother Nature is very unpredictable and she has not been kind to us in the last few years. But we have
“The challenges facing grape growers and winemakers today are unlike anything we have experienced in the past. Climate change disasters along with increased incidence of virus and disease pressure are threatening the economic viability of our industry.” — Ross Wise, chair, BC Wine Grape Council
to adapt, anticipate and react,” he says. “I keep saying this isn’t a normal vintage. But the extremes that we’re seeing in terms of temperatures, drought, fires, I think that is becoming normal.” Many B.C. grape growers have faced multiple years in a row of extensive winter damage and other climate-related challenges, such as the 2021 heat dome. The BC Wine Grape Council commissioned an assessment that found about 29 percent of the industry’s 12,681 acres have succumbed to winter damage and another 30 percent suffer from permanent viral disease and require replanting to avoid mass
Blackberry photo contributed; Vineyard photo courtesy of La Frenz
YearEnd 2023 |
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THE
2023 GRAPE REPORT
Growers survey Growers reporting winter damage
Vancouver Island had close to no damage.
We had bud damage, but no vine death.
38%
No winter damage
We had 30% of a normal crop. Lower yield by 18%.
18%
Vineyard acres damage
13% 1 to 2 acres
82%
2 to 10 acres
25%
12% 12% 11 to 30 acres
31 to 50 acres
Over 50 acres
Winter damage
Replanting
56%
We modified our pruning strategy to mitigate bud damage.
Some plants were/will need to be replaced
14% 44%
Different varietals
86%
Retrained vines rather than replant
Same varietals
Harvest celebration at Black Market Wines in Kaleden.
Winemaker Daniel Bontorin checks the vines at Seven Directions in the Similkameen Valley.
28 orchardandvine.net
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The B.C. wine grape industry assessed funding needed for a crop renewal program at up to $317 million.
Challenges? None, really. We spent a lot of time planning ahead of the season to make sure we were covered for anything possible. Finding staff. The rockslide in Summerland stopped traffic for 2+ weeks. Less tourists due to a (perceived mostly) fire/smoke hazard (we had very little of that). Winter damage followed by smoke damage from wildfires.
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spreading. Further, the study says between 3,814 and 7,492 acres need to be replanted in the province, and it recommends between $162 million and $317 million in funding for a crop renewal program solely focused on the B.C. wine grape industry. Ross Wise, who is chair of the BC Wine Grape Council, says government support is critical for replant efforts. “The challenges facing grape growers and winemakers today are unlike anything we have experienced in the past,” says Wise. “Climate change disasters along with increased incidence of virus and disease pressure are threatening the economic viability of our industry and we need funding in order to combat these major issues.” If climate-related challenges weren’t enough, some Okanagan wineries also faced logistical challenges during harvest in early September when Highway 97 was closed between Summerland and Peachland because of a landslide.
Photos by Yvonne Turgeon; photo courtesy of Wine Growers British Columbia.
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YearEnd 2023 |
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THE
2023 GRAPE REPORT
This year, my business was challenged by: High interest rates
9%
9%
Extremely
Not at all
18% 36% 27% Slightly
Moderately
Very
Weather events
45% Extremely
11% Not at all
22%
Shortage of agricultural workers
80%
9%
18% Slightly
Not at all
27%
Extremely
Very
9%
Moderately
Not at all
10%
Supply issues
10%
20%
Slightly
Moderately Extremely
(access to seed/plants, fertilizer)
Very
50%
Slightly
22%
30%
Very
Winemaker Evan Saunders checks on the vintage at Blasted Church winery.
37%
Fire/Smoke
Not at all
Slightly
An early November 2022 snowfall rests on the vineyards at Jackson Triggs in Oliver.
Winery photo by Jon Adrian; vineyard photo by Yvonne Turgeon.
30 orchardandvine.net
Slower sales affected cash flow. A lower yield harvest will affect cash flow in the coming years.
Need more customers.
Crop loss of 60%. Low traffic to tasting room in July. Stoppage of tourism due to fires and highway closures resulting in very low sales in August.
Mitigating the effects of climate change
36%
Already taking action
64%
No action plan
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Diseases/pests
30% 40% 20% 10%
Not at all
Slightly
Moderately
Very
Laughing Stock Vineyards winemaker Sandy Leier says the highway closure not only interfered with transportation of fruit from one end of the valley to the other, but also impacted winemakers and harvest staff who commute. Leier says she arranged for commuting staff to stay on- site to avoid the travel. Meanwhile on Vancouver Island, which often has different weather than other parts of B.C., vineyards reported decent conditions overall in 2023. “The extra warm summer is resulting in very high quality and an early harvest which is always welcome on the island where we are wanting to pick all our grapes before the October rains begin,” says Rocky Creek Winery’s Mark Holford.
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YearEnd 2023 |
31
THE
Andrew and Garnett Etsell harvest at Singletree Winery (left); Time winemaker Lynzee Schatz starts her next vintage.
2023 GRAPE REPORT
Will you continue to grow grapes next season?
Where are your vineyards located? Smoke damage made the rest of the vineyard (Marechal Foch) unusable.
100% YES
All of our varietals produced great in 2023. The standout was Pinot Gris in the Cowichan Valley.
Similkameen Valley
Vancouver Island
What was your best producing grape varietal?
What is your most popular selling type of wine?
Riesling
9%
45%
White Varietal
Red Varietal
Okanagan Valley
9%
Cabernet Franc Merlot
Red Blend
Chardonnay
18% Rosé
18% Sparling
Pinot Noir 32 orchardandvine.net
Pinot Gris
“We’re probably in a better situation than most. As long as we can make it to March or April next year we probably should be OK.” —Gavin Miller, head winemaker and co-owner, Upper Bench Winery & Creamery, Naramata
In the Kootenays and Gulf Islands regions, growers have been adding rows upon rows of vines. Both regions registered an increase of 40 percent from 2019 to 2022. “We are thrilled to see other producers seeing the potential in the Kootenays as a winegrowing region. Our hot days and cold nights allow the grapes to develop complexity and depth of flavour,” says Myran Hagenfeldt, who owns Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery. At Upper Bench Winery & Creamery in Naramata, head winemaker and co-owner Gavin Miller says Okanagan Lake insulated them from the worst of the cold-snap. The summer humidity, however, did cause some damage. “We lost more crop through mildew than we did from cold,” he says. Still, Miller says the biggest challenge in 2023 was the devastating Okanagan travel restrictions in August that interrupted their operations during the busiest part of the year to accommodate wildfire evacuees. “When the government tells the hotels to send everyone home and then they close roads…” says Miller, trailing off. “The provincial government really messed us up telling everyone to go home in the middle of our season.” And nobody came back, he says, after the province rescinded restrictions intended to open up hotel rooms to locals in affected key centres, including Kelowna, Kamloops, Osoyoos, Oliver, Penticton and Vernon. “We’re tightening our belt, laying off staff,” he says. “We’re probably in a better situation than most. As long as we can make it to March or April next year we probably should be OK.” ■ Photos contributed
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YearEnd 2023 |
33
Our perception of wine has more to do with its commercial history than we think BY VINCENT FOURNIER
A
Consumers tend to think of wine as a product of culture and authenticity. Because of this, they see it as distinct from other manufactured commercial goods. 34 orchardandvine.net
s an agricultural product, we think about wine as linked to a place and sometimes to an individual producer. After that it is considered a historical product rooted in the traditions of a region. And finally, wine is treated as an aesthetic product, in a similar way to the arts, with its key consumers, terminology, prominent producers and specific media attention. But is wine really distinctive? In 2021, the value of the global wine market was over $53 billion, with global production around 260 million hectolitres, the equivalent of 34 billion bottles. Of this, about half is exported and therefore consumed outside its place of origin. The main producing countries by volume are Italy, France, Spain, the United States and Australia. Yet wine has been a commercial product for 3,000 years. And paradoxically, many of the cultural ideas which shape how we perceive wine today actually stem from its history as a commercial product. As an anthropologist and professor in the department of social and public communication at Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM), I see wine as a cultural object. That is to say, wine carries meanings that are socially constructed and through which both producers and consumers think about it in unconscious ways. I carried out my first anthropological research fieldwork on wine in Calabria, in southern Italy, in 2000-2001 and have returned there three times. I conducted a second anthropological investigation in British Columbia, in the Okanagan Valley, in 2017-2018.
Wine regions like the Okanagan—home to the Time Family of Wines vineyards—emerged because of quality wine production, but old world wine regions originated along trade routes.
I am also a wine lover and have been running the website sommeliervirtuel.com with my brother Mathieu for over 10 years. Through this activity we have become recognized as wine influencers in Quebec and I have been able to deepen my knowledge of the wine market and its consumer culture. In this article, I demonstrate how some of our cultural conceptions of wine actually arose from the commercial nature of the product.
The importance of place
A central element of wine is that it is attached to place. We can talk about a Bordeaux, a Burgundy or a Chianti without having to add that we are talking about wine. Yet as far back as ancient Greece and later in the Middle Ages, it was different
elites that created a market for wines from recognized, distant regions. At the same time, the wine that was produced and consumed locally had no specific identity and was considered a common agricultural product among others. It was through trade, especially over long distances, that the place of origin of wines became important and significant.
The utopia of terroir versus the realities of trade Trade also helps explain why wine production became concentrated in certain regions and not others. Official speeches (guidebooks, wine books, laws) claim that this is because of the quality of a specific region’s terroir, according
to the idea that wine production is concentrated in the places most suitable for quality production. In fact, trade is what explains how vineyards came to be concentrated in certain regions, but not others. The French geographer and historian Roger Dion has shown how wine production became concentrated in France because of the country’s vanguard position vis-à-vis the markets of northern Europe. He points to how the wineproducing regions were concentrated around rivers, which were essential for the transport of heavy cargoes before the arrival of the train. So it was actually France’s geographical position that explained the development and historical renown of its wine regions.
Photos contributed
YearEnd 2023 |
35
Historically, regions that specialized in wine production were able to do so because they had the possibility of selling their production in other markets. That’s because a peasant family could not subsist on wine. The utopic concept of terroir, however, has been used to conceal these origins, attributing the renown of wines to regions and nature, while, historically, their reputations were actually built through trade.
From agricultural to luxury product
With the development of wine consumer markets in what were then non-producing countries, such as England, Northern Europe and America, a specific conception of wine emerged.
In these markets, wine was not considered an agricultural product. Wine was a luxury product, reserved for certain social groups. Even when wine spread throughout society, it remained a rare and occasional product. This view of wine remains the dominant one today, even in the wine-producing countries themselves, where the habit of daily wine consumption has yielded to one of occasional consumption.
Bordeaux and the English market
The case of the Bordeaux region is instructive and has played a key role in the development of several contemporary notions of wine.
The Bordeaux vineyard developed in response to demand from the English and Dutch markets, which, in turn, controlled the region and its trade starting in the 17th century. In this context, it was the English market that drove consumers and merchants to pay specific attention to vintages, as well as growths and the crus of Bordeaux, that is to say the “Châteaux,” such as Ho Bryan (Haut-Brion) or Margose Wine (Margaux) whose first mentions are in English. The famous classification of Bordeaux wines of 1855, still in force today, was created at the universal exhibition in Paris on the basis of wine prices that were established by the English market.
Jennifer Turton-Molgat presents shades of pink offered by The View Winery. The winery sits on a plot of land that has been farmed by the Turton/Ward family for five generations.
36 orchardandvine.net
Meet our Agriculture Services Team We are committed to building a long-term relationship with you, your business, and the next generation of proud Canadian farmers.
Ken Uppal MBA P.Ag District Manager Abbotsford & surrounding communities 604-621-3350 kanwar.uppal@td.com
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Connor Watson BComm. FAB Relationship Manager BC Interior 778-201-5753 connor.watson@td.com
While wine is often seen as a luxury, it can be an everyday pleasure as entertainer Anna Jacyszyn and actor Harrison Coe illustrate with Hester Creek Estate Winery’s sparkling Ti Amo.
The emergence of new consumer markets, particularly in Asia, is now putting upward pressure on the wine market and driving up the prices of specific wines from the most soughtafter areas or regions. At the same time, China has started to produce and export its own wine, increasing the already strong competition between different wine-producing regions of the world. In Asian markets, wine remains a prestige product, especially as a gift, for example in Japan. If the conceptions of wine so far are mainly Western, perhaps the Asian markets will influence the way we think about wine in the medium or long term. These are just a few examples of how the commercial nature of wine, through its long history, has influenced our perception of the product. Is wine perhaps hiding its true nature behind the rhetoric of its authenticity? Because objectively, wine is only fermented grape juice. ■ Vincent Fournier is a professor in the Department of Social and Public Communications at the Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM). This article is republished from The Conversation (theconversation.com) under a Creative Commons license.
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SEEDS OF GROWTH | GLEN LUCAS
Growers meet with government leaders
Water security and financial supports were top agenda items when the BC Agriculture Council leadership met this fall with Premier David Eby and Pam Alexis, Agriculture and Food Minister (seated far left).
A
griculture Day, an annual lobby effort of the BC Agriculture Council (BCAC), took place at the Victoria Legislature on October 24. The theme was “Advancing Agriculture on the Agenda” and the two main topics, supported by the 58 agriculture association representatives, were: Water Security: Solutions proposed were: establishing agriculture water reserves to prioritize water use for agriculture, as well as investments in water storage infrastructure Costs of Production: Solutions were to assist farmers with improved working capital to make investments in technologies and a carbon tax exemption. Relief of financial pressures on farm operations and access to capital were also topics of discussion
For the first time in memory, BCAC met with the premier at Agriculture Day. BCAC president Jennifer Woike, director Jennifer Critcher and executive director Danielle Synotte, joined Agriculture and Food Minister Pam Alexis and assistant deputy minister Peter Pokorny in the meeting with Premier David Eby (pictured above). With a provincial election scheduled for October 24, 2024 (unless it is called earlier), this precedent-setting meeting with Premier Eby took on even greater significance in carrying
forward the importance of water security and increasing cost pressures for agriculture. There were 28 other meetings during the day, with ministers and caucuses as well as industry organizations including the Investment Agriculture Foundation of BC, BC Farm Industry Review Board and the Agricultural Land Commission. Attending for the BC Fruit Growers’ Association (BCFGA) at 10 of these meetings were vice-president Deep Brar and general manager Glen Lucas. With new announcements on the responsibility for water being Photos contributed
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Fruit Growers VP Deep Brar (back) joined other industry reps to meet with Nathan Cullen, Minister of Water, Land and Resource Stewardship.
directed to the Ministry of Water, Land and Resource Stewardship (WLRS), the attendance of Brar at the session with WLRS (affectionately known as “Walrus”) is an important step in understanding the new government structure to handle water issues. BCFGA president Peter Simonsen attended several meetings on behalf of the BCAC board, as he is a director. The BCFGA provided some export quality Ambrosia to the office of the minister of agriculture, which she shared with other legislators and staff. The day ended with a reception and proclamation of Agriculture Day by Minister Pam Alexis. The overall impression from the meetings is that elected officials and government executive staff understand both the importance of agriculture and that farmers are among the most trusted of any industry representatives and professions (for example: producer.com/opinion/ who-do-consumers-trust-farmersfavoured-for-reliable-info.) A theme that is emerging is that B.C. needs to place additional targeted funding into B.C. agriculture and not be handcuffed to the federal-provincial program rules. Glen Lucas, P.Ag. is the executive director of the BC Fruit Growers’ Association.
Agriculture and Food Minister Pam Alexis (left) proclaims BC Agriculture Day with BC Ag Council President Jennifer Woike and agriculture critic Ian Patton.
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MARKETING MIX | LEEANN FROESE
Your winter to-do list Six things to do while your fruit is sleeping
H
arvest is done, ferments are underway and most tasting rooms are closed. Just because the plants are asleep right now, doesn’t mean you should be. Now is the time for you to prepare for next year’s visitor season and you can take the time to do it thoughtfully. Here’s a list of six things to do while your grapes are sleeping, while your tasting room is closed and these tips should help to set the stage for the touring season in 2024.
Organize your photos
This task is great for an afternoon with the tunes playing and a mug of hot chocolate at your side. To follow is the bare minimum of what you should have images of, in a resolution of at least 2MB in digital size: Product Great photos of each of your products, bottles, cans, packaging Cidery/winery Entrance, shop and cellar Vineyard/orchard Shots of your place in this world, not close ups of grapes or apples that could be from anywhere in the world People Owners, winemaker, vineyard manager, orchardist, hospitality and other staff Update your story — or finally write it What is your history and story that can be told in 500 words or less? This is a vital backgrounder that can be used in many different places: in your brochure, on your website, or as part of a press information kit. This basically is your ‘about’ to go. If you need to give your elevator speech or present a 30-second introduction to someone, this backgrounder
Update your image bank with photos unique to your winery.
should be able to provide you with the key content you need. Take it all to the web Get your website up-to-date so that it is ready for the visiting season, or just as importantly, during the off-season when you are closed, when the website is your business. (And now, because of the points above, you have photography and an updated story to share on your website.) Put new, great information on your website so people can learn about you and get excited about visiting. While on the topic, what else can you put on your website? How else can you make it easy for visitors to see what activities you are up to and where your products can be found? During these quiet winter months, it’s a good time to look at your website as a whole and see and how it can be updated. Evaluate your curb appeal When there’s no one rushing in the door and you are not servicing
customers, step to the customer side of the tasting bar and look. What do you see? Can you improve it? What is the first thing people see when they pull into your driveway? Does your entrance sign need a paint job? How clean and appealing does your business look compared to your neighbour’s? Now you might not have flowers in bloom at this time of year, but you can visualize where those flowers will be next year — plan it. What’s going to make the visitor relax and enjoy themselves in your space? What extras in your environment will allow them to have a really great time and want to linger with a glass of wine or cider? Get ready to invite the world Winter months are a great time to have a staff planning meeting to brainstorm ideas for promotions you can implement in the spring and summer, or work together to plan activities that give people a reason to visit. Have your tasting room staff trained and ready to welcome every person that walks into your shop. Get communal Lastly while it’s quiet, invite your neighbours over to have a tasting with you. Discuss what you are all planning, so you can be prepared to send your customers to visit your neighbours after they visit you and vice versa. We’re all in this together and our industry will give a stronger visitor experience if we support each other. Leeann Froese owns Town Hall Brands, a marketing and graphic design agency with 25+ years’ experience in food and hospitality branding. Visit townhallbrands.com and follow @townhallbrands. Photo by Chris Stenberg
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WORD ON WINE | KELLY JOSEPHSON
Campaign celebrates harvest, inspires community support
W
ine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) launched the Fall for BC Wine campaign this October, inspiring consumers across the province to buy local and share in the celebration of harvest season. The campaign, which included a new hero video, influencer and media outreach, community hero nominations and onsite promotional materials, was the result of consultation with winery—and tourism—industry stakeholders after a very challenging year due to climate-related extreme weather events impacting both wine crop yield and tourism revenue. Despite these challenges, the industry remains resilient and forward-thinking. “Winemaking has never been an industry for the faint of heart—resilience is a prerequisite,” said Miles Prodan, President and CEO of WGBC. “We’ve always been fortunate to have enormous support for the wines of B.C. from local consumers and with them behind us, we know the industry will overcome these challenges.” During the wildfire emergencies this year, many wineries stepped up as rallying points for community support.
Whether by organizing donations of essentials, contributing a portion of their sales or tasting bar fees to local charities, in some cases even providing shelter, B.C. wineries did their part. As harvest season wrapped up, wineries went even further to recognize a member of the community who did the same. “Wineries gave back to their communities in tangible ways during the wildfire crisis, now its time for them to do what they do best—provide an incredible B.C. wine experience to a deserving person who was there for people affected by the wildfires.” The Fall for BC Wine Community Hero Giveaway winner was selected from over 100 nominees, all incredibly deserving and ranging from community volunteers to first responders. The winner, Christine McWillis, was selected by random draw and embarked on a VIP trip-for-two to B.C. wine country. The getaway included winery tastings and behind-the-scenes winemaking tours, accommodation, wine and food experiences, tickets to the Okanagan Wine Fall Festival and a $250 SaveOn-Foods gift card to add some new favourite B.C. wines to her collection.
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McWillis, who was nominated for assisting her neighbours during the McDougall Creek wildfire evacuation orders in West Kelowna, said: “I am honoured to be recognized for the small part that I played during these really difficult times in our community. To be recognized for making the difference in someone else’s life is the most meaningful part. This was an amazing opportunity to experience B.C. wine country.” Christine and her guest were wined and dined through B.C. wine country in November and wineries were glad to have a place to direct their gratitude for continued local support. “It speaks to the bright future for B.C. wine,” said Prodan. “We will embark on next year’s vintage and tourism season with renewed strength and continued love for the craft that brings us all together.” Kelly Josephson is communications manager for Wine Growers BC which represent the interests of B.C. wineries dedicated to producing 100% B.C. grape wine. Follow @WinesofBC or find them on the web at winebc.com.
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SIPPIN’ PRETTY | YVONNE TURGEON
LAUGHING STOCK VINEYARDS
Masterclass unveils the secrets of bold reds I
don’t often get my science on. But take me down to the wine cellar and present me with glasses and beakers and I can channel my inner winemaker. I’ve travelled down to the Naramata Bench and wound my way up the steep slope towards Laughing Stock Vineyards. Don’t be misled by the name; this is a house of premium vintages. I head to the cellar to meet winemaker Sandy Leier and delve deeply into the art of blending wine. The Bordeaux-inspired blends are among the most sought-after red wines in the world. We cherish the deep dark colour in the wine glass, look in awe at the length of the wine’s legs and anticipate the pull of the strong tannins. Many are familiar with the popular red wines of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot, all noble red Bordeaux varieties. These red grapes and the lesser-known Carménère and Petit Verdot, make up the grand French lineup. Each equally impressive on their own, the sum is greater than its parts. In North America, a blend of two or more of these grapes is known as Meritage, a mashup of the words “merit” and “heritage.” A long table has been set in the middle of the cellar, each station complete with five glasses, beakers, droppers and a scorecard. One by one, Leier guides us through a tasting of the unique flavours of Bordeaux varietal wines, encouraging us to intimately assess their qualities: the colour, the unique aromas, the flavour. These will be our starting point to recreate (in our own fashion) Laughing Stock’s flagship wine, a big Bordeaux red blend named Portfolio.
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Currently selling their Portfolio 2020 ($53), Leier’s master blend of the five classic varietals: 43% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot combine to create a multilayered, complex wine. The blend aged for 20 months in French oak barrels, 40% new and 60% older, before being bottled. The deep garnet colour in the glass offers pepper and berry notes, while the wine boasts a smooth
profile with notes of dark fruit and cassis. It’s tasting mighty fine now, but it can certainly be cellared and brought out over the next decade. Leier leads the blending seminar (a small, intimate affair of 30 people), giving us a behind-thescenes look at the reasons for her formula in the flagship blend. Winemaker Sandy Leier leads a master class in blending wines in the cellar of Laughing Stock.
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Five dark bottles are set out; a single sticky label indicates that it may be “Merlot” or “Cabernet Franc” we’re about to explore. “We’re going to taste and see the different components of each of these different wines — quality level, colour, acidity — all of these things come into play when you’re making a blend,” she says. As we make copious notes, each wine shines in uniqueness. Leier believes that much of this unique character is derived from the terroir. The expansive range of microclimates from north to south gives Okanagan viticulturalists the privilege of cultivating diverse grape varieties, each thriving best in its chosen locale. The growing season and the intrinsic characteristics of the vineyard — including the soil, slope, sun exposure and orientation — all contribute to the grape quality. “If we don’t get good grapes, the winemakers are pretty helpless,” says Leier. “So, we’re out there checking the vines, especially as the grapes are ripening, tasting them every week. As we get closer to the ideal sugar levels, we’re looking to see if those flavours are where we want them to be, or if we want them to hang just a little bit longer to get a little bit more of the characteristic’s flavour.” The blending process begins and we’re encouraged to find the perfect combination to create the best wine. I take my dropper and add a small percentage of Petit Verdot into my Cabernet-Merlot dominant blend, adding structure, tannins and a lot of depth of colour. Then, a few drops of the fruity Malbec round it out. The change is overwhelming. Blended together, the individual wines have transformed in flavour, structure and quality. I turn back to my beakers, check my firstever wine blend formula and blend my own bottle. I proudly sign my label and head home, bottle in hand. O&V publisher Yvonne Turgeon shares her Sippin’ Pretty wine and bevvy column every second week on Thompson Okanagan Trends website trendsmag.ca.
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MONEY MATTERS | GEOFF MCINTYRE
Your farm succession plan isn’t complete until it exists in writing
R
ecent census data from Statistics Canada shows that the average age of Canadian farmers is 56 years old and only 12 per cent of these farmers have a written succession plan. The number of farmers that reported having only a verbal succession plan was nearly twice as high and the number with no plan at all was five-and-a-half times as high. These statistics are concerning given how important the agriculture sector is to the Canadian economy, let alone the hardworking agriculture families like yours who need continuity and stability in their livelihood. A formal and agreed-upon succession plan, written in detail, is the ideal standard your agriculture businesses should aim for, regardless of size.
Why don’t more farmers have a written succession plan?
What does a written succession plan look like?
Ambiguity around retirement
The length of your succession plan will depend on how many actors are involved in the transition. When printed, it can all fit into a binder. Typical elements you will want to include in a succession plan include: • A three-year and five - year business plan • A unanimous shareholder agreement • Copies of all lease and/or rental agreements that have any relation to the business • Annual financial statements • Outlines and specifics of grooming plans, training required and knowledge transfer elements
44 orchardandvine.net
Farmers face various challenges and hesitations about written succession plans — no two operations are the same. Here are some of the most common themes:
Avoiding the “soft” topics
Many farmers prefer to focus on how the business is performing and tasks that need to be done, rather than think about the human elements and relationships that keep their farm running. Conversations around succession will often overlap with inheritances, estate planning and family legacy, all of which can be difficult or awkward subjects to talk about. Some farmers avoid these conversations because they see them as a potential source of conflict. Many farmers never consider themselves as being fully retired. Especially when you live on the farm, the concept of full retirement and separation from the farm operation never feels like it’s in the cards, even if you no longer hold the same ownership stake as you used to. Farmers tend to speak more in terms of “slowing down” their involvement in the business and letting others take on a bigger role.
Assuming verbal confirmation is enough
If you’ve had formal conversations about farm succession with your family and the next generation of owners — even without putting any plans in writing — you’re already in a minority. Many farmers assume that in
a tight-knit family, verbal confirmations or agreements are enough to have everyone on the same page.
Commitment of time and resources
When done properly, creating a succession plan requires the services of a business advisor —one who understands your financial realities, goals and vision for the future. You’ll normally need to have multiple conversations with your family and advisor present, over several months. Many farmers see the process as being too prohibitive or expensive.
What are you risking by not having a written plan?
Most people in agriculture are only one injury or unforeseen life event away from needing to step back from hands-on farming work. A written succession plan is one of your most important tools for managing that level of risk, along with insurance.
Legacy
As a farmer, your legacy and reputation in the community is of paramount importance. While it’s not always comfortable to think about, you must consider what you want your legacy to be after you’re gone and what you want to leave behind. A successful agriculture operation takes generations to build and can be dismantled in a much shorter timeframe. A written succession plan greatly increases the likelihood your farm will grow sustainably and consistently after you step away from the day-to-day operations. The next generation of owners may not run the farm exactly as you did, but if
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Family harmony
A written succession plan is an opportunity for all stakeholders and family members to be heard. There are no guarantees all parties will get what they want, but a forum to share expectations and wants helps build family unity. Without writing down the succession plan, you’re forced to rely on people’s recollection of these conversations as you make decisions. If a family member passes away and no written plan exists, you’re forced to try and recall what they wanted or speak on their behalf. All of these dynamics create tension and conflict that could have been avoided if agreements, processes and plans were written.
Time
Because farming normally happens in annual cycles, you only have so many opportunities to train and groom the next generation for ownership. It’s not like other businesses where you can give employees hands-on experience at any point with any task. Writing your succession plan early affords you more time to pass on valuable knowledge so the farm continues to prosper.
Getting started
If you’re among the 88 per cent of Canadian farmers who don’t yet have a written succession plan, it’s never too late to get started. Speak to your family or other successors about the big-picture items that are important to you and to them. Then, ask your financial advisor or accountant for help creating a plan that fosters a smooth transition of the farm to new owners. Geoff McIntyre is the Regional Leader Agriculture Services at MNP. Reach him at 250-979-2574 or by email at geoff.mcintyre@mnp.ca
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CANADIAN WINEMAKERS | MARCUS ANSEMS
At home in the barrel room, Marcus Ansems knew wine was his future from a very early age.
Marcus Ansems: Winemaker at Daydreamer Wines
M
arcus Ansems and his wife Rachel have the quintessential family-owned and operated winery. Daydreamer Wines, on the Naramata Bench, was nothing more than a twinkle in Marcus’ eye when he was a child, helping craft wines in his native home of Australia. His life Down Under was before he gained experience as a partner, general manager and winemaker at other wineries and long before he met Rachel (born in Niagara) and they established Daydreamer Wines. For young Marcus, the Easter holiday was a special time as he would go to his uncle’s to pick grapes in the vineyard and eat Easter eggs. At the tender age of 10, surrounded by family and friends, bringing in a crop of grapes and watching the origins of the winemaking process, he realized he’d found his calling. His first vintage was at age 14. Then, after much exposure to the industry, he studied at The Institute
of Masters of Wine, earning his MW in 2015 — the fifth in Canada. He’s had well past 30 vintages since his first. With more than a dozen national awards and a number of sold-out vintages, his dream is firmly grounded in reality. O&V: Where did you go to school or apprentice? Marcus Ansems: I did my Agricultural Science degree at Adelaide University, majoring in Oenology. I apprenticed with my uncle, Trevor Mast, at Mount Langi Ghiran in the Grampians region of Victoria, Australia. O&V: Have you worked in other countries? MA: I’ve made wine in Australia, South Africa, Italy, France and Canada. I’ve also worked as a buyer in half a dozen more countries. O&V: What is your favourite varietal to work with?
MA: Shiraz/Syrah. O&V: What is the best thing about your job? MA: The best thing about my job is the variety of things I get to do. One day I’m cleaning drains in the winery; the next, I’m on a tractor; and the next, I’m talking to a group of sommeliers in a Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s always interesting. The most challenging thing about my job is the weather. O&V: Is there a particular vintage that you are most proud of? MA: I would say that our initial Daydreamer vintage in 2013 would make me most proud. The wines were great, particularly the Shiraz/ Syrah and Chardonnay. However, it was the culmination of many years of making wine for other people. Finally, my wife Rachel and I could have our own company where we could throw our passion and experience for many years to come. Photo courtesy of Wine Growers British Columbia
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