Orchard & Vine Fall 2021 by Before & After Media

Abbotsford's Blueberry Pioneers Harper's Trail Cool Climate Viticulture Hans Buchler BC Viticulturist of the Year

Fall 2021 $6.95

Display Until Dec 15, 2021 Publication Mail Agreement No. 40838008 www.orchardandvine.net

Fall 2021

CONTENTS 6 Publisher's View – Lisa Olson 8 Events Calendar 9 News

Photo by Mary Putnam

10 Fall Survey

Starting the crush after a harvest at Harper's Trail.

15 Cool Climate Vitis Vinifera at Harper's Trail 18 Berry Farmer Remains 'True Blue' 21 Sustainable Winegrowing BC Certifications 23 Hans Buchler Viticulturist of the Year 25 Legal Libations – Anne-Marie Mizzi

Photo by Sheri Saysomsack

27 Seeds of Growth – Glen Lucas 29 Word on Wine – Kelly Josephson

Bill Adams featured in our Canadian Winemaker Series. 4

Fall 2021

30 Canadian Winemaker Series – Bill Adams Cover Photo by Ronda Payne. Lynn Giesbrecht at her heritage blueberry farm RussLynn Blueberries in Abbotsford.

Photo by Tom Walker

Hans Buchler has been awarded the title BC Grapegrowers' Association 2021 Viticulturist of the Year.

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 PUBLISHER’S VIEW | LISA OLSON

A Tough Year For Farming Vol. 62, No 5 Fall 2021

The summer season has sure been a challenge, with the wildfires, heat waves, smoky weather, and all during a pandemic. The scorching heat made it difficult for crops and the extremely smoky air made it tough to work outdoors. The wildfires brought uncertainty as to where they may strike next and sad tragedies for neighbouring towns.

Established in 1959 Publisher Lisa Olson Editor Gary Symons Graphic Design

It’s well into autumn now and the harvesting of apples, plums and grapes are in full swing, thankfully with sunny blue skies and cooler temperatures. Inside the magazine we provide a few answers from a recent survey we sent out, as to how growers are feeling during this time.

Stephanie Symons Writers Kelly Josephson, Glen Lucas, Anne-Marie Mizzi, Photo by Kimberly Brooke Photography

Ronda Payne, Tom Walker

A few years back I was sitting next to Hans Buchler at the BC Ag Gala and I can still remember his kind and gentle deep voice discussing aspects of grape growing, his passion for the industry… and how much he was enjoying Orchard & Vine :). Hans is a hard working, innovative grape grower that brought life into his vineyard using self-sustaining and organic practices. He is one of the founding members and chair of the BC Winegrape Council and over the years has shared his knowledge with many, many others. Many of you might know that his grapes contribute to the single most awarded wine in Canada, ‘Cipes Brut’ from Summerhill Pyramid Winery. We are proud to feature him in this issue as he accepts his 2021 Viticulturist of the Year Award from the BC Grapegrowers Association. Cheers to you Hans!

made the right decisions. The decision of what to plant was what Russ and Lynn Giesbrecht had to make back in 1986 as a newly married couple. They chose blueberries not knowing how it would turn out over the years. They decided to add chickens and therefore needed to follow strict food safety protocols and provide lots of reporting. Focusing on sustainable farming methods, their love of farming RussLynn Blueberries has worked out very well. Read more about them inside.

It’s interesting to think back on what you’ve done 35 years ago and if you’ve

Enjoy the magazine and all the best during your harvest! ■

Contact lisa@orchardandvine.net Orchard & Vine Magazine Ltd. Mailing Address 22-2475 Dobbin Road Suite #578 West Kelowna, BC V4T 2E9 www.orchardandvine.net Phone: 778-754-7078 Fax: 1-866-433-3349 Orchard & Vine Magazine is published six times a year and distributed by addressed mail to growers, suppliers and wineries in the Okanagan, Kootenays, Fraser Valley, Lower Mainland, Vancouver Island, Washington State and across Canada. Orchard & Vine is also available online. Publications Mail Agreement No. 40838008 Undeliverable copies should be sent to: 22-2475 Dobbin Road Suite #578 West Kelowna, BC

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Foundations in Winemaking (Online) Cool Climate Oenology & Viticulture Institute Oct 11 - Dec. 20, 2021 Weekly For more information and to register: brocku.ca/continuing-education ccovi@brocku.ca Make it Safe 2021 (Online) OHS Conference + Tradeshow October 28 - 29, 2021 makeitsafe.ca Fortify Conference January 11, 2022 Penticton, BC https://fortifyconference.ca Pacific Agriculture Show Jan 27 - 29, 2022 Tradex, Abbotsford, BC www.agricultureshow.net Washington Winegrowers WineVit™ February 7 - 10, 2022 Three Rivers Convention Center Kennewick, WA www.winevit.org BC Organic Conference February 25 - 27, 2022 Kamloops, BC https://organicbc.org

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Fall 2021

 FALL | NEWS

AgriRecovery Funding Increased for Farmers Facing Extreme Weather There's good news for farmers hit by wildfires and drought, as the federal government has boosted AgriRecovery funding to up to $500 million this year. The Minister of Agriculture and AgriFood, Marie-Claude Bibeau, said the increase was made to address extraordinary costs faced by producers due to the drought and wildfires. This includes initial funding of $100 million announced on August 6. Given the extraordinary circumstances that farmers in Western Canada and parts

of Ontario are facing, Bibeau says this increased funding ensures the federal government is ready to contribute to eligible provincial AgriRecovery costs on the 60-40 cost-shared basis outlined under the Canadian Agricultural Partnership. The Government of Canada and the governments of British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba and Ontario are currently working “with the utmost urgency” to complete joint assessments of the disaster and launch support programs, Bibeau added. This will include

direct assistance to affected livestock and agricultural producers, and help them with added costs of obtaining livestock feed, transportation and water. Producers can also apply for interim payments under AgriStability to help them cope with immediate financial challenges. The Government of Canada and the governments of British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba and Ontario have agreed to increase the 2021 AgriStability interim benefit payment percentage from 50 per cent to 75 per cent.

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 FALL | O&V FALL SURVEY

Fall Readers Survey - We asked and You Answered We asked a few questions to our readers from around the province. Here is what they said. More follow up to this in the Year End Issue.

What are your views on the BC Vaccine Passports? How might they affect business?

Undecided

10%

Concerned for people losing their jobs in other sectors

13%

Winery tasting room, restaurant or other customers will welcome them

13%

Don't Like them

21%

Small businesses may experience a loss in revenue

23%

Concerned winery tasting room, restaurant or other customers might be a bit confused

23%

Concerned about staffing shortages

38%

They are overall a good thing

56%

Welcome them

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 FALL | O&V FALL SURVEY

Readers Comments

Over 37,000

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Worldwide! The vaccine passports don't affect us too much as our wine tastings are all standing anyway. An upcoming winemaker's dinner will require vaccine passports to be shown in order to attend. I have notified all ticket-holders and have yet to receive any push-back.

Hate the passports. We feel it's a human rights and privacy violation and our staff is very uncomfortable asking for them, even though we are of course being compliant with PHO. Already seeing a loss in revenue.

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I think the British government has the right idea to not go down the Passport path. The latest article from Science Magazine regarding situation in Israel is a good eye-opener. We do need to let people be pro choice with these MRNA vaccines.

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OUR ROOTS ARE IN AGRICULTURE THAT’S WHY WE UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU DO IS A WAY OF LIFE. We have a team of agribusiness experts here to support you every step of the way, helping to choose the right solutions for your unique needs.

We asked and You Answered Did your crop suffer damage due to weather? 44% NO DAMAGE

41% YES FROM THE HEAT

13% YES FROM SMOKE & HEAT

WHAT MAKES US UNIQUE? — OUR ROOTS ARE IN FISHING, FARMING AND AGRICULTURE. Our credit union was founded by the farming community. Over the last several decades, our cooperative has grown to $14 billion in assets, and counting.

— WE ACT LOCAL. Not only is our team of experts geographically dispersed to serve you where you are; decisions are made locally across the table, not across the country.

— WE HELP OUR MEMBERS AND COMMUNITIES THRIVE. As a financial cooperative, a portion of our profits go back to our members and communities. Like you, we live and work here, so investing in our communities is at the cornerstone of who we are.

3% YES FROM SMOKE

66%

WILL NOT BE SUBMITTING A CLAIM FOR CROP INSURANCE

Do you employ foreign workers? We can’t wait to learn more about your business. Contact your local Agriculture Advisor today: Amrik Gill | Agriculture Advisor Serving the Lower Mainland 604-309-6513 | amgill@envisionfinancial.ca

Toby Frisk | Director, Agribusiness Serving the Thompson, Okanagan, Enderby and Similkameen regions 778-212-3415 | tfrisk@firstwestcu.ca

Cash Reumkens | Agriculture Advisor Serving Lower Mainland and Vancouver Island 250-701-3426 | creumkens@islandsavings.ca

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Harper's Trail Finds Success Growing Vitis Vinifera North of 50º

Harper's Trail on the outskirts of Kamloops.

By Michael Botner “If more people knowledgeable about wine tasted our Thadd Springs Pinot Noir, they would be surprised,” says Sébastien Hotte, the winemaker at Harper’s Trail Estate Winery. Situated on the north bank of the South Thompson River on the outskirts of Kamloops, just north of the 50-degrees⁰ latitude mark, Harper’s Trail strives for excellence despite challenging, cool climate conditions for growing major Vitis vinifera grape varieties. Business travels in South America and around the world gave owners Ed and Vicki Collett the opportunity to visit wine producing areas and develop an interest in wine and food. Wineries at the base of the Andes Mountains in Chile inspired the couple to consider the Thompson Valley as a suitable place to produce wine. At the time of the launch of Harper’s Trail in 2012, Ed Collett said, “We could not see any reason that Kamloops could not grow and produce top quality wines that reflect the local climate and soil. When a 125-acre parcel became available in 2007, we did not hesitate to jump right in.”

average growing degree days are comparable to Okanagan Falls. Temperature extremes are an ever-present danger to grape growing in the Kamloops area. These include cold snaps in winter which can go below -20⁰C, frosts during bud break and excessive temperatures in summer that can be detrimental to grape ripening and health.

Originally part of the vast, storied Gang Ranch in the 19th Century, it was archetypal grass and sage-covered cattle country.

The well-drained soil is composed of clay, silt, sand and gravel with a vein of limestone that runs through the property. In 2008, the Harper’s Trail team planted seven acres of Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürtztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc. Today’s Thadd Springs Vineyard encompasses 25.5 acres of vines and

“Unlike the Okanagan, our valley running east-west rather than north south takes full advantage of daylight hours,” Collett says. “At an elevation of 1,100 feet, Kamloops boasts semi-arid conditions, mild winters and long summers with temperatures that rank among the hottest of any city in Canada. At 1,402,

Fall 2021

Photos by Mary Putnam

Ed and Vicki Collett co-owners of Harper's Trail winery in the vineyard.

grows the same varieties, except for Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot which have been removed as not being suitable to the conditions. In the case of the Gamay Noir block, planted in 2013, young vines planted in the sand seam did not do well, in part because roots stayed close to the surface, according to Collett. Mitigation steps included replacing vines with a different clone and strategically adding drip lines to nourish those plants. Enter Sébastien Hotte, Harper Trail’s talented winemaker, who joined the winery in the late summer of 2020. The decision to hire Hotte was made by the Colletts in collaboration with Penticton-based vineyard management and winemaking consultant Pascal Madevon. An acclaimed Bordeaux-trained winemaker, Madevon offers professional advice on vineyard management, wine production and marketing of wine. Madevon’s approach to wine says it all: “The potential, the spirit of a wine emerges from its terroir, but there is also an important human element that drives a wine’s final creation.” Hotte began his studies in Québec at the renowned École Hôtelière des Laurentides, which included in-house training at Bistro à Champlain, which boasted, until its closing in 2015, a wine cellar of stellar proportions. As a sommelier, he worked the floor in many top restaurants, including The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino, and participated in sommelier competitions. 16 Fall 2021

The team at Harper's Trail braves cold temperatures during winter harvest.

Called to learn the secrets of crafting wine, Hotte studied winemaking and viticulture on-line at Washington State University while interning at a variety of small, artisanal wineries in the Okanagan. Arriving at Harper’s Trail on the threshold of the 2020 harvest, Hotte faced unusually challenging conditions in the vineyard. “Except for three weeks in the 30’s, conditions were wet and rainy with below average temperatures,” he says. “Keep in mind that bud break takes place two to three weeks later

than the Okanagan. For Riesling and other whites, achieving ripeness was not an issue in 2020. The reds had a harder time achieving phenolic ripeness. We took all the necessary steps such as opening the canopy, 100% on the morning side, especially for the reds. Prior to harvest, we went into the vineyard, and removed everything not appropriate, including whole clusters. After sorting on the crush pad, we only kept the best.”

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Cold weather during the harvest introduced another test for Harper Trail’s team. “Desperate to pick the grapes, there were no workers available in the Kamloops area. When we reached out to the community with an ad in Facebook, ten local people and our tasting room staff came out to support us,” he says. Even in a “normal” year, “the vines have the best chance to achieve proper ripeness if yields are kept at about two tons per acre,” Hotte says. As well, “It is necessary to do things at the right time, leaving no margin for error,” not unlike walking a tightrope or threading a needle.

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The issue of ripeness is not exclusively a chemical test for Hotte. “Every winemaker has their own opinion when it is achieved,” he says. “For me, tasting grapes in the vineyard as the season progresses is essential.

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In the case of Harper’s Trail, the emphasis is on wines made in a lighter, more delicate style, wines with lively fruit and finesse over big, bold wine types. This approach is ideal for Hotte, who brings a preference for minimal intervention in the vineyard and on crafting terroir-driven wines. Committed to biodiversity, the winery is in the process of becoming certified as fully organic, starting with the vineyard. “It’s not a huge adjustment. What we’re doing now – we don’t use a lot of chemicals - already fits in with organic grape growing.” Going forward, “wine making will become more and more hands-off and more reflective of the grapes we grow,” he continues. Also on the table, land to the west of Thadd Springs Vineyard, now used to grow alfalfa, is being prepared for an additional 100 acres of vines.

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Hotte’s comments on several of Harper’s Trail wines are instructive. Pinot Noir 2019 showcases the winery’s elegant style and gentle approach to winemaking. “It is fermented in small lots and aged mainly in neutral oak barrels before blending and bottling,” he says. “In the winter, the vines benefit from the Alpine climate and the warming influence of the Thompson River.”

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Chardonnay Sparkling 2016 spends three years on the lees before disgorging and acquires a note of brioche from the aging. “Made in a dry, elegant style, its rich, creamy body soothes the clean, crisp acidity,” he says. Gamay 2019 has a flinty, mineral spine and a complex palate with succulent fruit and spicy nuances. “Don’t overdo the winemaking,” he says. “Treat Gamay like a serious wine, not tutti frutti.” Field Blend White 2019 is a happy mix of Pinot Gris, Riesling and unoaked Chardonnay. “The friendly, fruit-driven palate emphasizes Chardonnay’s leesy character to create complexity”, he says. ■

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Fall 2021

Berry Farmers Staying 'True to the Blue' By Ronda Payne It seemed like a unique choice when Russ and Lynn Giesbrecht decided to plant blueberries on their 10 acres in rural west Abbotsford in 1986. Back then, blueberries certainly weren’t the flourishing crop in the valley they are now. The community was very much the raspberry capital, but leading the way into something new didn’t scare the newly married couple.

Now, walking the site and reminiscing, the 4.5 acres of Bluecrop berries are still the variety of choice for Lynn. She takes care of the planning and farming duties, bringing Russ in to fertilize the field as needed and spread sawdust every few years. He has his own full-time job as a self-employed carpenter and restored the beautiful 110-year-old heritage house that helped the couple fall in love with the property. “We are focusing on that,” she says. “The heritage farm and heritage blueberry. We like the Bluecrop variety. We think it’s the best in the valley.” Bluecrop matures later than some of the newer varieties, but Lynn feels the taste and size of the berries more than makes up for it being later in the season. Russ is also a chicken farmer and added

Photos by Ronda Payne

“We got a consultant from the Ministry of Agriculture,” says Lynn. “Based on the soil, he suggested blueberries. We were one of the few to plant them back then.”

When we started farming, we were just blueberry farmers. Now we're business people. Lynn Giesbrecht barns that accommodate three 50,000 Taiwanese chicken (Loong Kong chicken) flocks each year, grown for Fraser Valley Specialty Poultry. The barns take up two and a half acres that had previously also

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been in blueberries. The transition was fine by Lynn who says managing the four and half acres of blueberries is more than enough for her. “Farming back then was so simple,” she

Russ and Lynn Giesbrecht at their heritage farm in Abbotsford (page 18), the blueberry field and barn (above).

explains of berry growing in the 1980s compared to today. “Now there is paperwork. It’s just way more complicated.” Part of the complexity is being enrolled and certified in the CanadaGAP Program. While the audits of the program prove to customers that RussLynn follows strict food safety protocols, following the program requires a lot of tracking, reporting and data entry. Lynn understands the need for the program and appreciates the safety measures it ensures for cus-

tomers, but it’s a lot of extra work for a small farm.

is a bigger problem in Bluecrop than in other varieties, so spraying is a must.

Part of that reporting includes making note of Lynn’s approach to a more sustainable farm.

Like many farmers, Lynn makes sure that when Russ sprays, he’s using the minimal amount for efficacy and controls are applied as recommended, away from the time of picking. Because the berries are next to the house and the family has always eaten more of the crop than the average family, keeping sprays minimal is essential. It’s the air they breathe, the water they drink from the property’s

“We do not use hard sprays or hard pesticides. We’re closer to what is used in organics,” she explains. “But, we don’t want to have the little wormies in our berries.” Unfortunately, spotted wing drosophila

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Fall 2021

well, and the tasty blue berries they consume and share with others. “There is the traceability. We write it all down and we monitor so that they are only picking when it’s safe to pick,” she says. The blueberries aren’t the couple’s main income. Instead, the crop provides a few of life’s extras, so in a good year they might be able to put money away to build an outbuilding they’ve been dreaming of. “We like the lifestyle, the farming lifestyle,” she says. “We’ve had many good years. If you could see my husband on his tractor, he wouldn’t ever have to make money to be a farmer. He just loves farming.” The lifestyle ensured the couple’s three children grew up in an ideal setting. A treehouse perched high in the forested area to the east of the blueberries continues to look out over the berry rows. “There were a lot of sleepovers in the treehouse,” she says of her kids. “They all know how to work. They all helped.” When they were too young to be in the field all day, but old enough to pick berries, they had to be in the field with her long enough to pick one 15-pound pail. Lynn sells half of the crop on-farm and half to Driediger Farms for processing. They’ve built frozen storage as well so that frozen berries can be sold direct from the farm year-round. When RussLynn was founded, there was a blueberry co-op that berries were sold through - similar to how BC Fresh is a family-farm owned marketing agency for produce - but that blueberry co-op is long gone now. Berries are hand-picked and if she has about 10 or 15 pickers, she’s fine to get the berries off at harvest. Of course, as

with all farmers, COVID caused a few labour challenges. Lynn’s always counted on friends and family to help as pickers, but as the kids grow up and move on to other things, her pool of pickers has grown smaller. She does have a contractor that can bring in pickers if needed and also relies on a contractor to manage the pruning in the winter. The RussLynn U-pick section within the field continued to be popular in 2021. “We have a lot of people that come out for that. It probably totals one acre of our field,” Lynn says of U-pick. “Our rows are nine feet apart. We could put people in a row and know they were [physically distanced] apart.” Because she’s always assigned people to a row when doing U-pick, there was no need to change the routine already in place. With 35 berry-growing seasons behind

her, Lynn is no newbie to the industry. Certainly, four-and-a-half acres isn’t the largest blueberry field in Abbotsford, but she brings a lot of knowledge to what she does. Lynn was on the board of the BC Blueberry Council for 12 years and has attended the Pacific Agriculture Show annually to ensure she keeps learning. She has connections with many of the local growers and believes it’s important to stay up-to-date as the exponential growth in blueberry plantings has occurred. “When we first started farming, we were just blueberry farmers. Now we’re business people,” she says. “For many, that’s a plus. For me, I just like being a farmer, but I’ve risen to the challenge. It’s very much a global market. That’s changed.” The long-term goal for Russ and Lynn is to stay put and she will farm blueberries and he will farm chickens. ■

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SWBC Issues First Sustainability Certificates By Tom Walker The first two recipients of certification from Sustainable Winegrowing BC (SWBC) are an old hand and a new hand in the business. One is Tightrope Winery co-owner and viticulturist Graham O’Rourke, who is one of the founders of the program and the first grower in the province to receive certification. The second is Heidi Lorch, who bought Heidi’s Peak vineyard in Okanagan Falls in 2019.

“A group of us started meeting in 2008 at the Summerland Research Station.” O’Rourke recalls. “A lot of us felt that a comprehensive and accountable program that encompassed every aspect of the growing and vinting process was important for the industry as it developed in BC.” There are a number of designations that the industry can receive, but they all have a specific focus. “Organic certification only covers your spray program, while Salmon Safe is about water quality,” O’Rourke points out. “We thought it was critical to connect all aspects of the wine making process from vine to bottle, from how you manage your waste to how you calculate your greenhouse gas emissions.” Over the last 12 years, committee members have developed a BC-based sus-

Photo by Tom Walker

While O’Rourke is the first grower certified under SWBC, he credits a group of influential growers for getting the program started.

Graham and Lyndsey O'Rourke of Tightrope Winery were first to be certified under SWBC.

tainability program. “That’s one of our strengths,” O’Rourke says. “We were able to look at the variety of programs that are out there, from New Zealand to Ontario, and develop one that matches our region, our climate, our situation.” Lorch is a newcomer to grape growing but she is a seasoned farmer with lots of experience with a sustainability program. She is the first independent grower to be certified. Lorch came west after selling her mixed farm in Ontario where she raised 35,000 chickens a year, as well as corn and soybeans for feed. “My pullet raising business was part of the national Start Clean, Stay Clean program through the Egg Farmers of Cana-

da,” Lorch explains. “We received yearly inspections that included having our record keeping audited, so it is an aspect of farming that I am used to following.” Lorch also got an early introduction to the BC program while completing the three-month viticulture certificate at OK college. “I did my final project on SWBC and I knew that was the direction I was headed for my own vineyard, so I started off with the required records from the start.” Both O’Rourke and Lorch have completed the SWBC online self-assessments, undergone the day-long inspection from SWBC auditors, and have received certification that entitles them to display the SWBC logo.

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In Tightrope’s case that includes the privilege of labeling their 2020 white wines as ‘certified sustainable’. Lorch’s grapes are contracted to cross the road and become part of neighbouring Wild Goose Vineyards wine production. Wild Goose themselves are not yet certified and are not able to use the sustainable label, but the winery has registered for the certification process. While SWBC is clearly an industry driven program, it fits well with an increasing consumer consciousness. “Consumers want accountability from farmers,” says Lorch. “They want to know that we are using the best practices and management that we can, and if there is a certain standard that farmers have to follow, that has more weight than people just saying that they do it.” Sustainability proponents are betting that the certification will draw a new breed of customer. “We hope to attract people who are of like mind as us,” says O’Rourke. As Lorch gets to know her vineyard and the industry, there are two aspects that she is particularly proud of.

Photo by Tom Walker

“I am really working on building my soil,” she notes. In her first two years she spread 30 tons of compost and this year it was 60 tons, all by hand. Her vineyard has a drop-off to a second bench and the steep slope is all natural vegetation, including antelope brush, a plant that is considered critically imperiled in BC. “I am working with the Okanagan Similkameen Stewardship Society as a habitat steward,” she says. “They are planning to come this fall to help establish some more native plants in a bare gravel area on the slope.” It’s harder for Tightrope to point to one particular practice that stands out. “It’s the way I learned to farm,” says O’Rourke. “After Lyndsay and I completed our masters programs in New Zealand, the management company that I worked for was part of the sustainability program in New Zealand. He says Tightrope incorporates a lot of technology to support their business. “We have a Ranch weather station system with three different locations that constantly collects soil temperature soil moisture and degree days. I have been doing that since 2011,” says O’Rourke. “We utilize the science, we utilize the technology, but our approach is always the vineyard first.”

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Heidi Lorch of Heidi’s Peak vineyard in OK Falls.

After completing the self assessment, candidates find themselves needing to gather data to present to the auditor. “In a business our size where the winemaker and the farmer are partners and have a lot of background, we don’t tend to write a lot of things down,” says O’Rourke. “I have a vineyard management plan, but it’s in my head. I track how I manage all of my nutrients, but I don’t plan it ahead of time. Certainly we train our employees, but now we have it all in a binder. The SWBC program has forced us to rethink how we start each season.” Lorch says she felt very supported going through the process. “SWBC has good resources to follow and a good network of people,” she says. “Everyone was ready to help with guidance.” Overall the program makes good business sense. The more you fine tune the management of your business, the more economically feasible everything becomes, says Lorch. “I am spending a lot of money on compost but in the future I will need to use less synthetic fertilizer.” she explains. “So it actually helps both the environment and the bottom line.” “Our overall goal is to leave the land a better place after using it,” adds O’Rourke. “We want both the consumer and the industry to know that we know, and practice, what is the responsible thing to do.” ■

Buchler Named Viticulturist of the Year By Tom Walker Hans Buchler of Oliver, who grows grapes for Summerhill Pyramid Winery, has been named the BC Grapegrowers Association’s 2021 Viticulturist of the Year. Buchler and Stephen Cipes, proprietor of Summerhill Pyramid Winery, marked the occasion with fellow grapegrowers and scientists with AAFC Summerland Research and Development Center (SURDC). Buchler is a legend in the industry, having spent four decades in the grape growing industry, and Cipes was pouring wine and telling stories of Buchler’s uncanny ability with his grapes.

Buchler has farmed his 30-acre Parkhill Vineyard tucked amongst the rocky knolls of McIntyre Bluffs, northwest of Oliver, since 1982. His pioneering organic practices led him to a long-term contract with the organic vintners at Summerhill. That award-winning quality is what the BCGA is looking for when they consider nominations for the award, explains John Bayley, president of the BCGA. “This award was developed to celebrate the growers in our industry who are pushing forward the quality of fruit while also being a present and positive member of the grape growing industry,” said Bayley, who is also the vineyard manager at Blasted Church.

Photo by Tom Walker

“The wine we are drinking today, Cipes Brut, is the single most awarded wine in Canada,” Cipes told the crowd. “It has never not won a gold medal since it was introduced in 1991. Hans is the man who grows the grapes and 80 per cent of the credit for the wine goes to him.”

Hans Buchler (left) and John Bayley at the ceremony for the BCGGA 2021 Viticulturist of the Year

“It was designed to highlight those growers that produce the top-quality grapes that go into making BC’s best wines.” A pioneer in organic practices in the valley, Buchler says his vineyard has been a work in progress over the past 40 years, “This was raw land that had never been irrigated before,” he explained. “The organic matter in the soil was one per cent and not really much nutrition available, so the establishment of the vineyard was a long haul.” But he is happy with the results. “I have

brought the vineyard to the point where it is self-sustaining in terms of inputs,” Buchler said. “Over the last several years I have not had to add any additional nutrients to the soil.” Cover crops are a key, he says. “The cover crop of mostly vetch is established to the point where it provides the nutrients that the vines need,” Buchler says. It’s a system that he would like to see practiced at other sites across the valley. “We have really no other input in terms of nutrition.” he explains. “I would love to see this system tried in different areas in BC.

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Buchler’s quest for industry research in the valley goes back 25 years, says Tom Lowery, viticulture entomologist at SURDC. “I met Hans in 1996 when we got the first grape project through the R&D committee,” says Lowery. “He really pushed for research and that subsequently led to getting more positions at the research center. He continues to support us, often previewing literature reviews and newsletters and adding his comments.” Viticulture plant physiologist at SURDC Pat Bowen adds that Buchler has an ability to plow through regulations. “That is an amazing skill and it’s backed by a deep knowledge, a sense of fairness and an ability to be diplomatic,” Bowen says. In addition to his work with the BCWGC, Buchler is president of the Canadian Grapevine Certification Network, an organization that works to ensure a supply of clean, quality, grapevine material for growers and supports research on all aspects of grape vine health. Buchler also represents the BC Agriculture Council on the Okanagan Basin Water Board.

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Buchler’s work outside the vineyard was another important part of his award, Bayler added. Buchler was a founding member and chair of the BC Winegrape Council, an organization that coordinates and funds research and education on viticulture and enology. He is currently the BCWGC research chair.

Karnail Sidhu owner of Kalala wines and the recipient of the 2020 viticulturist of the year award, recalled advice he got from Hans when he was vineyard manager at Summerhill and later with his own vineyard.

Alyssa Barr Account Manager BC Interior 250-575-5047 alyssa.barr@td.com

“Hans has always been my go-to person for questions about organic viticulture. He has told me all his grape growing secrets,” says Sidhu. “But the one secret he has not told me is how he finds time to do all the work that he does.”

Raine Weiterman Analyst BC Interior 250-470-3027 raine.weiterman@td.com

Buchler accepted the award with his usual quiet grace, sipping on a glass of Summerhill Brut. “I am always happy to hear that you like the fruit,” he chuckled. ■

M05336 (1118)

 LEGAL LIBATIONS | ANNE-MARIE MIZZI

Dealing With Defamation in a Digital World court. In Grant v Torstar Corp, 2009 SCC 61, the Supreme Court stated that for a plaintiff to establish that defamation has occurred the plaintiff must show that the statement made: a) was defamatory in the sense that it lowers the plaintiff's reputation in the eyes of the reasonable person; b) was in fact referring to the plaintiff; and c) was published by communication to at least one person other than the plaintiff.

point may be known as defamation.

In today’s world, people have become increasingly reliant on online reviews to determine if a company is worth their business or not. With the click of a button, people can help determine the success of your business by posting positive or negative reviews. However, there can be a point at which negative online reviews can go too far, causing severe harm to you or your company’s reputation. This

Defamation occurs when something is said or written about a company or individual that is false and causes harm to their reputation. An example of defamation could be someone calling your company corrupt. It is further broken into two categories: libel and slander. Slander refers to oral communication whereas libel refers to non-transitionary forms such as online reviews, broadcasts, and Facebook posts.

If a plaintiff can prove that the statement made meets these criteria on a balance of probabilities, then defamation will be established. However, there are several defenses available to the respondent such as:

If there is an online review or string of online reviews where someone is making false accusations about your company or an individual, there is the possibility of taking it to

a) the defence of truth or justification which is where the defendant tries to prove that the defamatory statement made was true in substance; b) the defence of fair comment where a defendant tries to prove that the defamatory statement made was an expression of opinion on a matter of public interest; and c) the defence of qualified privilege which is when a person is acting under some legal, moral, or social duty in stating what he or she believes to be true about another person to a listener who has a corresponding duty or interest in receiving the communication, such as a complaint to a regulatory body. Going to court, though, can

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be expensive and time consuming. As well, it may not be easy to track down who made the statement, as online reviews can be posted anonymously. Additionally, going to court may not repair the harm to your reputation.

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There are several things one can do before pursuing a defamation case, such as having the defamatory statement removed as quickly as possible. Depending on where the statement is posted there may be options available to you to have it removed or modified. With Google business reviews one can flag a review as inappropriate and Google can remove it if it violates their policies. Facebook may remove any statements that are hateful, threatening, unlawful, misleading or malicious. Another option is to disprove the defamatory statement with a well thought out response. Providing your side of the story allows other online users to see the company responds to its reviews and acknowledges concerns raised by customers. Responding to a defamatory statement, however, may fuel the dispute further, so think about if it is worth your time or if responding would bring more attention to a statement that would otherwise be forgotten about. One of the quickest ways to have a defamatory statement dealt with is to have a cease-and-desist letter sent to all relevant parties by a lawyer. Most websites do not want to get into a lengthy battle in court, so those involved will usually remove the content. A well written ceaseand-desist letter can put the issue to a quick and inexpensive end if the parties abide by it. In the online world it is common for an individual or company to be exposed to negative reviews and comments, which can cause serious harm to an individual’s or company’s reputation. If you or your company are faced with harmful comments or reviews, document the evidence and reach out to legal counsel to decide your best course of action. ■ Denese Espeut-Post is an Okanaganbased lawyer and owns Avery Law Office. Her primary areas of practice include wine and business law. This article was written by Anne-Marie Mizzi. www. averylawoffice.ca

 SEEDS OF GROWTH | GLEN LUCAS

BC Faces a Climate Emergency what to do for the future. However, when 86.1 percent of growers in a July 27, 2021 survey “expect a repeat of the extreme heat of this year” it is past time to talk and move to action.

BC is in a climate emergency. We now have three emergencies in BC: COVID-19, the Opioid Overdose Emergency and climate. From June 28 to July 1, 2021, BC set all-time Canadian records for high temperature. Here in the Okanagan, orchardists do not need to be told of the impact. As apple and pear growers struggle with the harvest, it may seem early to consider

Date Keremeos Oliver Kelowna Vernon

The province of BC is currently developing a Climate Preparedness and Adaptation Strategy. Some facts that should be taken into account in developing the strategy are:

June 26

38º

40º

38º

39º

June 27

41º

42º

41º

42º

June 28

43º

42º

June 29

41º

45º

44º

June 30

44º

43º

44º

July 1

38º

39º

Temperatures in summer 2021

Extremes are more common and occur in unexpected ways.

ley] wanted the lake level to be lower to avoid flooding but those downstream from Penticton wanted it higher to ensure they had enough irrigation and drinking water later in the summers.”

• In 2018, the Okanagan experienced spring flooding followed by a season-long drought. A March 15, 2021 article in InfoNews reported “Essentially, those in the north [of the Okanagan Val-

• In 2021, heat records were

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expanding at the urgent pace needed. There is enough water, but it flows away in Spring before it is needed. We used to capture and store enough water, but the consequences of multi year droughts in the Southern US are a devastation that is avoidable in BC, with adequate water storage. There are ways to mitigate the extremes and action is needed now • Irrigation systems were not designed for 45 Celsius weather. In our survey, 22 percent said their irrigation systems were inadequate during the June 28 heat wave, and another 18 percent did not know. Growers need to get an assessment of their irrigation systems. The Environmental Farm Plan (EFP) program provides 100% funding (up to $1,500) for “Irrigation design and management plans”. The BCFGA

just announced a program for its members to provide a $250 incentive to complete an EFP. • Protecting crops from extreme heat is on growers' minds. Growers indicated that shade cloth is a possible solution, and for apples overhead irrigation. Growers will also be thinking about pruning for shade and other innovative practices to protect from intense heat and sun in the future. Our government agriculture programs need to adapt to the needs rapidly . A new and urgent imperative in agriculture is needed to rapidly adapt. • “Agricultural water supply should be viewed as contributing to food security and not just as an economic driver on par with water supply to mining and energy projects” according to Anna Warwick Sears, Executive Director of the Okanagan Water Basin

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Board. Further, “A secure food supply for BC requires support for agriculture, including secure land and water for crop production.” Growers, their associations, and government need to galvanize in recognizing the climate emergency and taking all possible measures, with haste, to mitigate and adapt. But it is not all negative.

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There will be opportunities, such as the new Northern and higher elevation cherry plantings, and in knowing that other agriculture areas do not have the water resources to adapt, but BC does. Working together with government, agriculture can ‘weather the storm’. ■ Glen Lucas, General Manager, BC Fruit Growers’ Association

 THE WORD ON WINE | KELLY JOSEPHSON

Wine Growers BC Welcomes New Board officio non-voting members.

• S amantha Collins, Mission Hill Family Estate Winery, Mark Anthony Group

“This year was certainly one of the most extraordinary years that we have endured, and we appreciate the time commitment and dedication of our volunteer Board of Directors and committee members throughout,” notes Prodan. “The innovation, collaboration, and resiliency we have seen across the industry has been truly exceptional.

•P aul Sawler, Dirty Laundry Vineyard •E rin Korpisto, Stag’s Hollow Winery In a year full of change, Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) held its virtual Annual General Meeting this morning on September 1, 2021, welcoming a new board of directors. Nine voting WGBC Directors represent all British Columbia wineries. Newly elected or reelected members of the Board of Directors are: • Josh Stewart Vice-Chair, Arterra Wines Canada

Continuing their directorships are, newly appointed Chair, Christa-Lee McWatters of TIME Winery and Five Vines Cellars, Charlie Baessler of Corcelettes Estate Winery, Greg Berti of Andrew Peller, Leo Gebert of St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Winery and Dapinder Gill of Kismet Estate Winery.

"We look forward to working with our new Board members and continuing Board members to evolve and adapt to our new reality and work together to achieve lasting and meaningful results for the continued success of the BC wine industry.”

BC Grapegrowers’ Association representative Felix Egerer and WGBC President & CEO Miles Prodan continue as ex

WGBC continues to utilize the Wine BC 2030 Long-Term Strategic Plan as a visionary roadmap in developing its annual operational plan objectives to implement Wine BC 2030 recommendations central to the future growth, vitality and profitability of the BC wine industry. WGBC would like to thank outgoing Chair Erik Fisher (Monte Creek Ranch Winery) for his contributions to the Board during his term, and wish all of BC wine country a fruitful harvest season. ■ Kelly Josephson, Communications Manager, Wine Growers British Columbia, winebc.com

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 CANADIAN WINEMAKERS SERIES | BILL ADAMS

Bill Adams - Winemaker Stoneboat Pinot House This month in Orchard & Vine we spoke with William (Bill) Adams, the winemaker at Stoneboat Estate Winery and the Valley Commons winery in Oliver. O&V: How did you get started in the wine industry?

O&V: Where did you go to school or apprentice? Bill: I went to Niagara College for the winery technician program for three years, and the college had a winery on site for students to make wine and sell it through their wine shop. It was very hands on learning. I then spent two years as Assistant Winemaker at Palatine Hills, but in 2006 I loaded up some of my stuff in a VW golf and drove to the Okanagan to work a harvest at Sumac Ridge, and really enjoyed the area and the mountains. I got a job that December in the cellar of Osoyoos Larose and never went back again to Niagara. I met (Stoneboat owner) Jay Martiniuk there, and Alison Moyes, the winemaker I took over from at Stoneboat. In 2011 I worked for my friend Tyler Harlton when he started (TH Wines), then

Photo by Sheri Saysomsack

Bill Adams: Growing up in Ontario I had two influential uncles who made a small amount of wine every season in their basements. I started helping them with pressing and fermentations and really liked the process. After I graduated from high school I was unsure what I wanted to study, but soon found out that Niagara College offered a winemaking program and I thought it would be a good fit for me.

Bill Adams, winemaker at Stoneboat Pinot House and Valley Commons

worked briefly at Blue Mountain, and finally started with Stoneboat. Now I make wine for both Stoneboat and Valley Commons. O&V: Have you worked in any other countries? Bill: I worked at the Bouchard Finlayson Winery in South Africa in 2008, and in New Zealand at the Ata Rangi Winery in 2009, and the Rock Ferry Winery in 2011. O&V: What is your favourite varietal to work with? Bill: Pinot noir is always special to me. All of my overseas experiences have been with top notch Pinot noir producers, and that is also why I accepted the role with Stoneboat. But here we also grow Pinotage, which you don’t see very often in

the Okanagan. After the first few years of making Pinotage, I would have to say that it is my favourite. I like the way it grows, and it is the wine I tend to drink more often at home. It’s like a Pinot noir on steroids. O&V: What is the best thing about your job? Bill: For me it’s being able to enjoy and drink the fruits of your labour. I like the hard work during the year, cleaning, harvest, bottling. Creating the red blends, as we taste each barrel, a few hundred in our cellar and then starting to layer different lots and barrel profiles to create the best wine we can. It can go on and on in the lab playing around with combinations, we really put a lot of effort into releasing the best wines. O&V: Is there a particular wine or vintage that you have made that you are most proud of?

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Bill: I would say the 2015 vintage at Stoneboat Vineyards. It was my first winemaking job at a large winery and I had a lot of pressure to make something good. The vintage was warm and the wines turned out great. It was only the second time Stoneboat released a reserve Pinot noir. I guess the owners enjoyed that vintage as well because I am still here! ■

Farmers! Got unwanted pesticides or livestock/ equine medications? Okanagan, Interior, Kootenay – Sept. 27 to Oct. 21

Cleanfarms 2021 Unwanted Pesticides & Old Livestock/Equine Medications Collection Safely dispose of unwanted or obsolete agricultural pesticides and livestock/equine medications – no charge! For information on what is and is not accepted, click on the QR code. Take them to the following locations on the dates noted between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. ERICKSON Tuesday, Oct. 5 Growers Supply Creston 754 - 35 Ave South 250-428-5124

McBRIDE Monday, Sept. 27 McBride Regional Transfer Station 500 NW Frontage Rd. 250-960-4400

PRINCE GEORGE Tuesday, Sept. 28 Foothills Boulevard Regional Landfill 6595 Landfill Rd. 250-960-4400

VERNON Thursday, Oct. 14 Growers Supply Vernon 1200 Waddington Dr. 250-545-1278

KAMLOOPS Wednesday, Oct. 13 Purity Feed Ltd 471 Okanagan Way 250-372-2233

OLIVER Thursday, Oct. 21 Grower’s Supply - Oliver 5911 Sawmill Rd. 250-498-6406

WILLIAMS LAKE Friday, Oct. 1 153 Mile Fertilizer #80 - 5101 Frizzi Rd. 250-392-5333

KELOWNA Tuesday, Oct. 19 Grower’s Supply Kelowna 2605 Acland Rd. 250-765-4500

PENTICTON Wednesday, Oct. 20 Growers Supply Penticton 272 Dawson Rd. 250-493-2885

QUESNEL Thursday, Sept. 30 Four Rivers Co-operative Quesnel Branch 1280 Quesnel Hixon Rd. 250-992-7274 VANDERHOOF Wednesday, Sept. 29 Four Rivers Co-op 1055 Hwy 16 West 250-567-4225

Next Cleanfarms collection in this area in fall 2024 • COVID social distancing measures may be in place For collection dates elsewhere on the Prairies, go to: cleanfarms.ca/materials/unwanted-pesticides-animal-meds/

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Orchard & Vine Fall 2021

Articles inside

Hans Buchler Viticulturist of the Year

Seeds of Growth – Glen Lucas

Cool Climate Vitis Vinifera at Harper's Trail

Berry Farmer Remains 'True Blue'

News

Sustainable Winegrowing BC Certifications