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WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .64

A Deep Dive Into

DOXA The Nautical Issue DIVING WATCHES | COASTAL RETREATS | SEAFARING STYLE

ISSUE 64

5.95

£


ORACLE TIME #64

WELCOME Editor’s letter

By the time anyone reads this, I’ll most likely be in the pub. The light at the end of the tunnel that is Covid-19 is here and I plan on celebrating with a few pints of perfectly poured microbrewery beer. While I can at least. For many of you though, the coming end of lockdown is a chance for one thing: travel. This being our nautical issue, we have you covered. Provided your idea of a holiday is one with crashing waves and the deep, dark depths of the ocean. It goes without saying then that if you’re planning a spot of diving you need a watch to match, which is why we’ve created our guide to the best diving watches around right now (page 49), ranging from the entry-level knockabouts to the kind of collectors’ pieces you might want to think about twice before diving with. If there’s one brand you can count on as a professional instrument though, it’s Doxa, whose bright colours, technical excellence and surprising value for money have made them a favourite of serious divers everywhere, particularly in the case of our cover star this issue, the Doxa Sub 300 Carbon Aqua Lung. Find out more on page 40. The rest of our horological photography this issue also revolves around deepdivers, though in a much different light – or should I say, a much lower one. To be a true diving watch the piece needs plenty of lume and those highlighted from page 66 have that aspect covered. If you’re still deciding on where your new freedom is going to take you, let us help. On the one hand you could opt for a once-in-a-lifetime experience that just so happens to come with a limited edition Panerai (page 60). Or closer to home, on page 118 Lewis Nunn takes us through some of the coolest, most secluded coastal locales in the UK for you to draw inspiration from. That, incidentally, is the theme of the style section this issue too, as Nick Carvell talks to a number of fashion labels influenced by the ocean, accompanied by a style edit of classically nautical wardrobe staples suited to everything from a fishing trawler to the Riviera. As for the beer I’m so looking forward to drinking, check out Aidy Smith’s deep-dive into the finest microbreweries in the country on page 106. Whether you’re after dry, fruity or something to knock your socks off, there’s a tinny for you. And if you do happen to find me in my pub of choice (generally Soho’s Duke of Argyle) then feel free to treat me to one of them. I won’t mind, honestly. COVER CREDITS Photography: Fraser Vincent Watch: Doxa Sub 300 Carbon Aqua Lung doxawatches.com

And above all else, stay safe and stay sane. Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: instagram.com/otmagazine | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

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ORACLE TIME #64

CONTRIBUTORS Now that the end of lockdown is in sight, where do you dream of sailing off to?

WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE

Nick Carvell

A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as Social Media Editor of mrporter.com before working as Associate Style Editor at British GQ then Editor of The Jackal. He is now a freelance menswear editor, writing from lockdown at his kitchen table in South London. “On our honeymoon, my husband and I made a plan to go to the island of Ischia, out in the Bay of Naples, but due to timing we couldn’t make it happen– I’d pack my swim shorts and set a course for there”

Jake Scatchard

Amira Arasteh

doesn’t eat to live; she lives to eat. An avid foodie, she appreciates all good food, from marketstall traders to Michelin-starred restaurants. In the rare moments she’s not eating she’s covering fashion, beauty, tech and travel. “Before all this happened, I had a family trip to Turkey in the works – would be great if we could re-organise that ASAP”

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped. “I’ll be heading straight back to the Maldives as soon as physically possible. Just a shame I didn’t get stranded there in the first place!”

EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Alex Briand alexbriand4@gmail.com DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent DIRECTORS

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan

Lewis Nunn

Often dubbed the real-life Patsy Stone, Lewis is an editor and travel journalist writing about luxury travel and cruise holidays for all leading fleet street newspapers. He knows how to travel in style – preferably with a glass of Bolly in-hand. “India all the way — the sights, smells, smiles and samosas”

Growing up in a horological household, Jake’s been privileged to see history’s finest timepieces spill over the dining room table. Working with his father, Jonathan (founder of Vintage Heuer), he has a passion for the timeless sports watches of the ‘60s and ‘70s – and not just Heuers, at that. “Waiheke Island for the hiking, beaches and wine!”

oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4615

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7871 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Amber Heyman-Hunter Amber@opulentmedia.o.uk OT MAGAZINE is published monthly by Opulent Media 020 7871 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

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ORACLE TIME #64

CONTENTS

1

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 64

18 — AFICIONADO

40 — DOXA

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

In a new collaboration with Aqua Lung, Doxa pushes its own watchmaking boundaries in splendid orange

26 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and, of course, the best in horology

34 — FACETIME

Watch collections of the rich and famous – this issue it’s Jacques Cousteau

36 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS Demystifying the idiosyncratic world of online watch memes

“I want people to look back at what we are doing 100 years from now, and see something special.” Doxa— p40

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ORACLE TIME #64

CONTENTS

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49 — DIVE WATCHES The best of the best in submarine timepieces

60 — PANERAI EXPERIENCES

The watches that come with a life-changing journey

66 — LUME SHOOT

Our pick of the most striking luminescent watches

60

77 — COASTAL LABELS

The British garment makers inspired by the coast

86 — STYLE EDIT

How to build your nautical wardrobe

96 — WATCH REVIEWS Our take on models from Oris and Breitling

126 — VINTAGE 66

A forgotten classic from Heuer

77

128 — AUCTION WATCH

CULTURE “Roofs are covered in sea thrift and infinity pools seem to spill out across the wide golden sands – plus two log-fired hot tubs sit between boulders”

118

101 106 118

Food Drink Travel

__________________________________ _____________________________

____________________________

Coastal Retreats — p118

106

16

What’s under the hammer this month

131 — IN FOCUS

A closer look at three brands: Chotovelli & Figli, Aventi and Briston Watches

139 – MICROBRAND CORNER

What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

144 – MOVIE WATCH A specially commissioned timepiece for Christopher Nolan’s forthcoming Tenet


FRONT — aficionado

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

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FRONT — aficionado

RACING COLOURS

What’s better than a re-issued vintage Heuer? One that combines the playful, high-octane livery of the legendary white Montreal with the contemporary calibre and more accessible case of the modern Carrera. Released to coincide with the brand’s 160th anniversary and limited to 1,000 pieces worldwide, this is a step beyond an archival piece. Sure it lacks a little of the 70s charm of the original Montreal grail watch, but it’s an incredibly cool, colourful future collector’s piece. £5,550, tagheuer.com

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FRONT — aficionado

HOT & COLD

If there’s a company out there vying with Vollebak for most outrageously technical outerwear, it’s ORBITGear, whose W110-J React Jacket has a secret that only shows if you get a little hot under the collar. The material it’s made from is heat reactive, meaning that as the jacket gets warmer it changes from green to brown, completely altering the entire look of the jacket. Combined with oversized pockets and a foldable hood, it’s practicality with a twist. If you’re looking to switch up your look while you’re wearing it, this is one for you. $298, orbitgear.net

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FRONT — aficionado

THE 2G RACER

415 horsepower. 62mph in 2.7 seconds. 124mph in 7.7 seconds and capable of pulling two Gs in the corners. This isn’t a McLaren or a Lamborghini we’re talking about but something entirely more mental: the Donkervoort D8 GTO-JD70. Limited to just 70 models in homage to the founder’s 70th birthday, this is the first sports car capable of hitting those kind of forces and, when you get a look at it, that’s no surprise. Mad Max meets rocket car, it’s a lightweight, adrenaline-fuelled beast that we want – no, need – to get behind the wheel of. It’s also pretty clean. We doubt that changes anything for you, but it’s nice to know. €198,000, donkervoort.com

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FRONT — aficionado

AN ASTON ON TWO WHEELS

Back in 2019 legendary British marque Aston Martin announced its team-up with equally legendary bike specialists Brough Superior. Now after plenty of development we have the result – and it’s phenomenal. A combination of carbon fibre and aluminium with a thin seat, the AMB 001 is a lightweight racer of a bike, sweeping and almost sinister, especially in what the makers are calling the Inferno livery. Only 100 of these will be made and if they don’t sell out instantly then we’ll be on our bike. €108,000, astonmartin.com

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FRONT — aficionado

AHEAD OF THE CURVE

If being trapped at home has incentivised to make the most out of your gaming set-up, then you might have dabbled with the idea of a proper monitor. The 49’’ Samsung Odyssey G9 is about as good as it gets. The highest-performance gaming screen on the market with the blackest blacks and cleanest, crystal-clear image, it’ll kick next-gen into 4K without issue. Though be warned: its 250Hz refresh rate is so good that your computer might have a bit of an issue keeping up. Still, if you want the best, it pays to invest – and the Odyssey G9 is very much the best. £1,270, samsung.com

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FRONT — aficionado

ADRIATIC ESCAPISM

As soon as lockdown lifts, we doubt we’ll be the only ones high-tailing it out of the Big Smoke to the nearest (or in this case) newest wellness retreat to decompress after isolation. Croatia’s Maslina Resort in Hvar, opening in August, looks like just the ticket. Blending into both the olive groves it’s named after and azure coastline, the resort is a blend of wellness, adventure and plenty of luxury, with a holistic approach to the traditional experience of a relaxing sunny getaway. €240 a night, maslinaresort.com

GOING FOR GOLD

The Warwick Acoustics Aperio is one of the most stunning audiophile headphone systems on the market, a flight of stairs above most of the competition out there. For makers Warwick Acoustics though, that wasn’t enough; now the West Midlands-based audio firm has made sure it looks as good as it sounds with 24K gold. The entire thing, down to the grilles on the headphones, were hand-finished in Birmingham’s historic jewellery quarter for one heck of a visual statement. £29,995, warwickacoustics.com

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FRONT — aficionado

BOATING ROYALTY

There’s nothing like a Riva. Only they deserve to be known as the ‘Rolls-Royces of the sea’ – although a better fit might perhaps be Bentley, as Riva also has an illustrious racing history in its CV. But certainly in the drive to be the very best, in every way, with a reputation to match, Riva ticks all the boxes. From modest beginnings in the mid-19th century on the shores of an Italian lake, Riva came to international fame in the 1950s, when it took on the Americans in the world of glamorous, gleaming mahogany speedboats – roundly beating them at their own game. By the 1960s, for the rich and famous ‘jet-set’ living La Dolce Vita on the Riviera, a Riva was the boat to be seen in – and many were, including Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, Prince Rainier and Princess Grace of Monaco, Brigitte Bardot, Peter Sellers and countless more besides. Although Rivas have grown in size over the years, today’s boats are just as beautiful and meticulously built as their legendary forebears, and even more luxurious. The fleet now includes some 15 models, ranging from open dayboats and runabouts, to mid-size sports cruisers and flybridge yachts, to 100-foot-plus superyachts. The smallest is the 27-foot/ 8.2-metre Riva Iseo – a modern re-imagining of classic Riva speedboats of old. The largest is currently the Riva 50m, an awesome 164ft / 50m superyacht, which recently took the prize for Outstanding Exterior Design at the 2020 Boat International Design and Innovation Awards. Two of the most remarkable of the current

collection of Rivas are the 76-foot/23.2-metre Riva 76 Bahamas and the 88-foot/ 26.8-metre Riva 88 Florida. These two substantial motor yachts are the only convertible cabrios of their size in the world. The sight of their power-opening hardtops lifting off, and swinging down onto a recess in the forward deck, never fails to leave quayside onlookers openmouthed in amazement. venturaeurope.com/riva

Today’s boats are just as beautiful and meticulously built as their legendary forebears

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS •

PATEK’S NEW MANUFACTURE For a watchmaker as esteemed and established as Patek Philippe, a new production facility is a big deal. After five years of construction on the edge of Geneva, the maison’s distinctly modern new ten-floor manufacture has been completed. It’s a huge space and one that will set the pace for Patek over the next few decades. Don’t expect it to mean you get hold of your Nautilus any sooner. Perhaps more important to collectors is what Patek Philippe is releasing to coincide with its new 200-metre-long facility: the limited edition Ref. 6007 Calatrava. Produced in stainless steel, a rarity for the maison, and with a high-tech carbonstyle dial, it’s a distinctly modern twist on Patek’s signature dress watch. patek.com

IN DETAIL •

40mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance •

caliber 324 S C automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve •

Limited to 1,000 pieces, patek.com

TIME FOR TEASE

It’s a huge space and one that will set the pace for Patek over the next few decades 26

Coffee shops are so passé. Instead of rushing to get your caffeine fix as London starts opening up again, head down to South Kensington for the newly launched Tease. The menu has been created by Cosmo Lewis, former mixologist at The Ned and Annabel’s, so expect flavour par excellence in the form of iced, milk and classic teas, all using fresh, natural ingredients and the kind of attention to detail that many a cocktail bar struggles for. Opening 4 July and available for delivery now. Find out more at lovetease.com


FRONT — world news

JOHN LENNON’S PALM BEACH MANSION FOR SALE If you’ve ever wanted to live like a Beatle this might just be your chance – for a cool £37.5m. That’s the asking price for the newly on-the-market mansion, El Solano, once bought by John Lennon and Yoko Ono back in 1980. If that kind of cache isn’t enough of a justification to move during lockdown, the seven-bedroom, 14,000square-foot estate layout of

the Palm Beach pad should be. With its Mediterranean style El Solano is one of the properties that has helped define the area’s look, not to mention its prestige. It has come to typify Atlantic oceanfront grandeur. Oh and what’s more, Rod Stewart would be your neighbour. Which is cool. Find out more at anglerealestate.com

MCLAREN COMMEMORATES LE MANS It’s been 25 years since JJ Lehto, Yannick Dalmas and Masanori Sekiya claimed victory for fledgling team McLaren on their first ever attempt at Le Mans, and the modern hypercar marque is getting nostalgic. To celebrate, it is releasing a shiny new limited edition 720S. The typically extreme car boasts a roof scoop, unique five-spoke LM wheels and carbon-fibre racing seats on top of the 720S’s already impressive specs (0-124mph in just 7.8 seconds). Available in either McLaren orange or Sarthe grey and finished with a Le Mans dedication plate and ‘McLaren 25 Anniversary Le Mans’ logo, it’s a serious bit of motor. With only 50 available in the world though, you’ll need to be quicker than the car to get your hands on one. mclaren.com

With only 50 available in the world, you’ll need to be quicker than the car to get your hands on one

LE BRISTOL PARIS REOPENS Not that we’ve had much cause to visit recently, but Paris’ ever-glamorous Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré has been missing something over the last year or so: the iconic revolving door of Le Bristol Paris, one of the finest hotels in the world. That’s soon to change however as, come 1 September, the legendary institution will be reopening after a full refurb, one that’s not only modernised the nearly 100-year-old hotel, but introduced a host of new suites and a stunning courtyard garden. From the looks of things, the hotel’s first closure since 1925 will be well worth the wait. Book your reservation at oetkercollection.com

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FRONT — world news

One of the finest rums of the year, with a balanced palate of fruit, wood and spice, complete with an elegant finish

WORLD RUM DAY We don’t need much of an excuse to raise a glass, particularly these days, but if you’re searching for a reason to sip on a glass of rum then mark 11 July in your calendar: it’s World Rum Day. Here’s what we’ll be drinking to celebrate.

• Diplomático Reserva Exclusiva Smooth and dark, Diplomatico’s reserve is bursting with orange peel and hints of dark chocolate, two ingredients that you all but have to sample alongside the liquid itself. £42.50, thewhiskyexchange.com

• Parce 12 Year Rum Translating to ‘good friend’ in the rum’s original home of Colombia, this sweet, spicy drink runs the gamut from creamy to smoky and is bottled in Chicago, the perfect globe-trotter for an international celebration of rum. $65, reservebar.com

• Ron Zacapa Centenario Sistema Solera 23 Made using Zacapa’s continuous aging system ‘solera’, this is one of the finest rums of the year, with a balanced palate of fruit, wood and spice, complete with an elegant finish. £56.45, thewhiskyexchange.com

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FRONT — world news

BREMONT AND THE BATTLE OF BRITAIN It’s coming up to 80 years since the RAF defended our coastline from Nazi forces and, never being one to miss out on a good bit of British aviation, Bremont is hopping on the opportunity to offer a special twinset of timepieces. The limited edition Battle of Britain Box Set, priced at £14,995, contains a watch inspired by the iconic Spitfire and another by the equally famous (though less close to home) Hurricane. The watches themselves are lovely riffs on vintage pilot’s pieces, tying in nicely with the aircraft they pay homage to. But the best part isn’t the watches themselves, but what comes with them: the opportunity to fly a vintage Spitfire, courtesy of the Aircraft Restoration Company. bremont.com

The best part is what comes with them: the opportunity to fly a vintage Spitfire

GUESS T H E WATCH DID YOU GET LAST ISSUE’S WATCH? With its signature diving bezel and incredible good looks, it’s understandable why BLANCPAIN calls its flagship Fifty Fathoms the first modern diving watch. Sure it’s pricier than we’d be comfortable risking in the depths, but its an icon in the truest sense.

For this issue we’ve decided to opt for one of the many Genta-inspired sports-luxe timepieces that have cropped up in the last couple of years, this particular one from a brand more usually at home in the cockpit.

what is the

WATCH

What is the watch? CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER.

29

?


FRONT — introducing

IN DETAIL • 42mm black ceramic case with 300m water resistance • BR-CAL.302 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £3,800, bellross.com

NEWS

INTRO DUCING

BELL & ROSS

BR 03-92 Diver Full Lum

If low-light visibility in the underwater depths is ever a worry then you might have a new watch on your nautical wishlist. The BR 03-92 takes the template of the square Bell & Ross diver and gives it a luminescent facelift with an extraordinarily bright full-lume dial. It’s a dial that stands out all the more against the matte black ceramic case and bezel, even in the light with its eerie green tint. There’s little doubt that, cool as it is, this is a serious performance timepiece.

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FRONT — introducing

A. LANGE & SÖHNE Lange 1 Time Zone

For 15 years the Lange 1 Time Zone has been among the most elegant traveller’s watches on the market; but even it, after a decade and a half, is starting to look its age a little. It’s no shame to get a little work done, which is why A. Lange & Sohne has now released its latest, facelifted (and horologicallyrefined) Lange 1 Time Zone.

IN DETAIL

41.9mm white gold, yellow gold or pink gold case • Calibre L141.1 hand-wound movement with 72-hour power reserve • €49,200 (white and pink gold), €52,200, limited to 100 pieces (yellow gold), alange-soehne.com •

LONGINES

Heritage Classic Tuxedo Collection

Finally another release from Longine’s heritage collection and it is, quite possibly, the coolest yet. A pairing of a small seconds watch and a quirky chronograph number inspired by the jazz-slanted freedom of the post-war years, the piece’s black and white livery is as sharp and handsome as the dinner suit that lends them its name.

IN DETAIL • 38.5mm (small seconds) or 40mm (Chronograph) stainless steel case with 30m water resistance • L893 automatic movement with 64-hour power reserve (small seconds) or L895 automatic movement with 54-hour power reserve (chronograph) • €1,920 (Small Seconds) and €2,880 (Chronograph), longines.com

CORUM LAB 02

Launched in 2019, the Corum LAB collection was meant to be an outlet for new ideas. Unfortunately, the LAB 01 didn’t exactly stretch the realms of possibility, it was simply a sporty tourneau cased, titanium watch with integrated bracelet and skeleton dial, which led to rather unfavourable comparisons with Richard Mille. Thankfully the LAB 02 sees Corum step up its game in a big, big way.

IN DETAIL

45mm rose gold or white gold case, with or without diamonds, with 30m water resistance • CO 300 manual-wind movement with 55-hour power reserve • CHF 180,000, limited to 10 pieces each, corum-watches.com •

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FRONT — introducing

OMEGA

De Ville Tourbillon Co-Axial Master Chronometer

The DeVille Tourbillon Numbered Edition might come as something as a shock to many; Omega’s

present-day reputation for build quality, innovation and materials is certainly spotless but few would think of the brand in terms of haute horlogerie. One look at this watch changes that in an instant.

IN DETAIL

43mm Sedna pink and Canopus gold case with 30m water resistance • Omega 2640 calibre manual-wind with 72-hour power reserve • £134,780, omegawatches.com •

The forest green is a strikingly contemporary take on March LA.B’s masculine, asymmetrical timepiece

MARCH LA.B AM2 Mars

While you might be expecting something red with a name like Mars, March LA.B’s latest limited edition take on its signature 70s-inspired AM2 uses the French brand’s signature green to the full. Combined with a black PVD case, hands and indexes, the forest green is a strikingly contemporary take on March LA.B’s masculine, asymmetrical timepiece. There are only 50 though, so get in there quick.

IN DETAIL

39mm black PVD stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Miyota 9015 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • €1,445, march-lab.com •

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FRONT — facetime

NO.

FA C E T I M E

64

The watch collections of the rich and famous revealed

IN DIVING CIRCLES, Jacques Cousteau is spoken about with the sort of reverence normally reserved for saints and deities, and for good reason. No other man has contributed quite as much to our exploration of the underwater world. Scientist and photographer, naval officer and conservationist, whatever Cousteau did, his life revolved around the ocean. The same holds true for his watch collection. As synonymous as Cousteau was with diving, it makes sense that he would need a decent diving watch; more importantly to the watchmakers, he was one of the few guys capable of testing these watches to the extreme in their infancy in the 1950s. In fact, in 1956’s The Silent World, one of the first underwater films ever produced, the man himself can be seen wearing a Rolex Submariner 6205. Unlike many a diver though, Cousteau didn’t stick to Rolex alone, especially as Blancpain and its Fifty Fathoms was also jumping headfirst into his territory. He also added Doxa to his list of go-to divers, particularly the Doxa Sub 300. Not only was it on the wrists of his team filming The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau, but Cousteau himself distributed the watch via his US Divers company and was influential in it – as well as the later helium escape valve-equipped Conquistador – becoming vintage classics. That takes some faith. While it were a little late to the party, Omega also got in on the action and built a relationship with Cousteau during the 1963 Conshelf II experiments to try and develop a seafloor habitat for divers. It was a relationship that led directly to the Seamaster 1000m and Ploprof 600 – and to Omega’s impressive diving pedigree. Between the Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, Doxa Sub 300 and the deepest diving offerings from OMEGA – not to mention the myriad watches they have inspired – we have a lot of serious diving timepieces to thank Cousteau for. Things could have been a lot different (and a lot less water resistant) without him.

Jacques Cousteau The diver

Cousteau was a proud wearer of the Doxa Sub 300 and Rolex Submariner

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FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

[1 — OK CIAO]

[Watch Memes]

For anything good and pure in the world, the seedy world of Reddit has a way of destroying it – or at the very least, memeifying it. Devoted watch collectors being the overt geeks that they (and I mean we) are, it was only a matter of time before horology developed its own set of in-jokes and altered images. Probably about five minutes after Reddit went live, thinking about it. In case you wanted to venture there yourself, don’t worry too much. The forums are still pretty wellpopulated with guys showing off their rare, quirky finds on worryingly hairy wrists. Provided that is you stick to the safety zone of r/watches. Head off the beaten track though (r/watchescirclejerk for example) and you’ll need a map. Consider us your cartographers – and welcome to the world of watch memes. Oh and parts of this might not be strictly SFW.

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Head into the deep, pungent underbelly of Reddit and you’ll find all kinds of strange watch-loving creatures ending every post with ‘ok ciao’ – and strangely it’s not because the entire subreddit wants to be Italian. While obviously not as important as our YouTube channel, The Urban Gentry has been going for a good old while. Showing off watches as the “part of the crucial history of human civilization and time itself, which is our most precious commodity in life” that they are, face of the channel Tristano Geoffrey Veneto has a few favourite phrases he likes to return to: “Pure class,” “absolutely gorgeous,” and of course his signoff, “OK Ciao.” The Reddit community has adopted his sayings wholesale. Oh and another favourite of TGV? “Chuffed to Bits.”

[2 — CHUFFED TO BITS ]

So… yeah. I’m just going to leave this definition right here, straight from the devil’s gaping maw. Please don’t try this at home.

[3 — THE IMPOSSIBILITY OF GETTING WATCHES]

One of the greatest frustrations of being a watch collectors is not being able to get the watches you want to collect. The biggest example of course is the epic wait list for a Rolex Daytona or Patek Philippe Nautilus. But in the world of Reddit where there’s a collector for everything, even the smaller, cooler brands have their own issues. Then there’s Casio.


FRONT — ask the oracle

1

2

3

In the world of Reddit where there’s a collector for everything, even the smaller, cooler brands have their own issues. Then there’s Casio ”

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FRONT — ask the oracle

6

5

4 [5 — WATCHES AND STEERING WHEELS]

These are not all the watch memes there are. Hell, these barely scratch the irreparable DLCcoated surface ” 4

[4 — DISRUPTING THE MIDDLEMEN]

Online hasn’t just revolutionised vaguely funny stock pictures with some kind of horological attachment. Brands everywhere are going straight to the consumer, cutting out the middleman as they go. So violent in fact has this culling been, the unceremonious getting rid of those defenders of the faith that make up distributors and marketing execs that the watch community has really started to feel for them.

In possibly the most delicate, tasteful form of satire on the forum, you’ll see a fair few shots of affordable watches, snapped on the wrist in front of the emblem on the steering wheel of an affordable car. This references the ton of Instagram shots out there with some jackass shooting his Richard Mille while showing off that he drives a Lambo. Or an Hublot in a Ferrari. Whatever the pairing is. Still, it’s something that you, too, can do at home! Carefully line up the perfect paired shot and off you go, pure class!

[6 — DANIEL WELLINGTON]

And finally, the butt of every joke. Not long ago my friends over at @clockbait decided to show everyone how to wind a Daniel Wellington watch. They pulled out the crown, wound it a little, then threw it out the window. That in a nutshell is how the watch lovers of Reddit think of the brand. In fact, there’s more than a little outcry if you put the words ‘Daniel Wellington’ and ‘make watch’ in the same post – partly because of the obvious connotations that you dare suggest the brand is a serious horologist, partly because you spelt its name correctly. Shame on you. These are not all the watch memes there are. Hell, these barely scratch the irreparable DLC-coated surface. But at least you’re a little less likely to get lost. In the meantime though, here is a poem of sheer, staggering eloquence posted by a IrenaeusGSaintonge. The man/ woman/cat with a keyboard should be sainted. “apology for poor english when were you when middleman dies? i was sat at home chuffing bits when Dovid Wellongton ring ‘middleman is kill’ ‘no’”

The issue here is that, if you think about in a certain way, these disruptors cutting out the middlemen, these artisanal coffee-loving tech hipsters that don’t produce the watch, have themselves become the middlemen.

I think we can all agree, that’s pure class. Ok ciao.

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FRONT — doxa

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FRONT — doxa

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

THE FUTURE OF DOXA

© Jason Reekie

COLOUR, CARBON AND DIVING IN NEUCHATEL, AS THE SWISS HERITAGE DIVE BRAND LOOKS AT WHAT’S TO COME

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FRONT — doxa

Doxa is defined in a very real way by colour. Where most diving watches stick to the same scheme of black, white and dark blue, Doxa is synonymous with bright orange 42

Any serious diver with a passing appreciation for watches likely knows the name Doxa. They are the quintessential 60s divers, an icon of the golden era of underwater exploration. The brand may have been founded as early as 1889, but it was the Doxa SUB, built in collaboration with none other than JacquesYves Cousteau, that has come to define it. In the time since, bar an understandable blip in the 70s courtesy of quartz, Doxa has been creating some of the finest affordable divers on the market with more bang for your buck than a stag strapped with dynamite. Yet like many a 60s diving watchmaker, Doxa’s at a crossroads, one put rather succinctly by incumbent CEO Jan Edöcs: “Doxa has a rich heritage – one that we’re proud of. But divers are getting younger and they’re no longer familiar with what we were doing in the 1960s. We can’t just rely on Jaques Cousteau anymore!” It’s a tricky balance, that need to find a new audience without losing your roots. It’s also one that Doxa has struck admirably with our cover star this issue, the Sub 300 Carbon Aqua Lung. Not only is it an incredibly cool, technical-looking diver with a specs sheet to match, it’s been built in association with one of the most important names in diving. The watch speaks for itself, both on the front of this issue and in our low-light lume shoot (pg. 66, if you want to go check it out), but the relationship between the brands is just as interesting. Why those two? Sure, they were both favoured by the legend that is Cousteau, but that’s pretty loose as these things go. The man got around. Well, in a very real way, it’s a matter of colour. Doxa is defined in a very real way by colour. Where most diving watches stick to the same scheme of black, white and the occasional avant garde flash of dark blue (oo-er), Doxa is synonymous with bright orange. You see an orange dial, you think Doxa. End of. It’s a great, modern look and one that’s attracted plenty of fans recently. But there’s a deeper (pun completely intended) purpose to Doxa’s love of colour, one that serves a strictly practical purpose.


FRONT — doxa

Doxa’s CEO Jan Edöcs wants to define a new era in the brand’s history

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FRONT — doxa

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FRONT — doxa

“We’ve always had great fans in the diving community. But as we grow, we want to offer something to the guys that just want a cool-looking, affordable, sporty watch”

Doxa and Aqua Lung’s collaborative watch reflects both brands’ colourful pasts

Back in 1967, when Doxa was looking at ways to innovate its already successful divers, its team decided to see what they could do visually. So, they painted up a few watches and sank them in their local dive spot in Lake Neuchatel – which, as Jan puts it, “Is not the Maldives, believe me!” The colour that showed up the best? Orange, of course. The thing is, this is precisely what Aqua Lung did, too. In the same manner, the equipment maker realised that bright colours work and ended up offering a wide range of hues that mirrored almost exactly what Doxa did. Innovation breeds creativity, after all.

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Today Doxa’s colour palette takes in aquamarine, sunflower yellow and silver along with its flagship orange livery and, for me, is one of its greatest appeals. It perhaps shouldn’t be – they are professional instruments after all – but as I don’t actually dive (deep water is a recurring nightmare of mine) – I’m all about the aesthetics. Which, incidentally, is great news for Doxa. “We’ve always had great fans in the diving community,” explains Jan. “We’ve had great relationships there. But as we grow, we want to offer something to the desk divers, the guys that just want a cool-looking, affordable, sporty watch.” There are a number of brands doing just that right now, ranging from the vast number of retro-diver start-ups to a handful of heritage brands releasing reams of archival revival pieces. Many of these are strictly for the aesthetics; some have the functionality to be called true instruments. But that approach isn’t good enough for Jans: “We need to think forward; we can’t just raid our archives and repeat what we’ve done in the past. If you make limited edition after limited edition, you’ll be seen as a museum watchmaker. We don’t want that.” It’s that thinking that has spurred Doxa on to create the aforementioned Sub 300 Carbon Aqua Lung limited edition. Sure, the relationship is built on a shared heritage and the case shape is a classic, but the way in which the watch has been built, with its forged carbon and surprisingly accessible price tag (try finding a case like that for the same money) is distinctly modern. It comes full circle to Doxa’s heritage of innovation, one that began with the first SUB and continues today. From the sound of it though, things are just starting to ramp up. “We want to push things further than we have ever done,” explains Jan. “To go further with materials and designs. I want people to look back at what we are doing 100 years from now, and see something special.” So far, so good. doxawatches.com


FRONT — dive watches

GRUPPO GAMA

Divemaster MK II, £755.82

THE SHALLOW END: UNDER £1,000 Your first diver doesn’t need to break the bank, but with these pieces you don’t need to sacrifice quality either. Solid cases, respectable depth resistances and a host of professional-level touches, these are perfect for dipping your toe into the underwater world.

Inspired by the golden era of diving that was the 1950s and the host of iconic submarine timepieces it spawned, Gruppo Gama’s latest generation of Divemaster shares plenty in common aesthetically with the more elegant tool watches like the Fifty Fathoms. Still, to call it a Blancpain on a budget would be

unfair; with a water resistance of 500m, the Divemaster could give the iconic watch a run for its money, backed by a workhorse ETA 2824-2 movement for the kind of reliability you need that far down. THE DETAIL • 44mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • gruppogammawatches.com

THE BEST

DIVE WATCHES

WORDS:

Sam Kessler

OF 2020

T H E D E E P DA R K o f t h e o c e a n i s a t e r r i f y i n g p r o s p e c t , b u t o n e t h a t i s a l i t t l e l e s s e x i s t e n t i a l l y h o r r i f i c w i t h a g o o d p a r t n e r o n yo u r w r i s t . B e t we e n t h e r u g g e d t o o l w a t c h p r a c t i c a l i t y d e m a n d e d b y a p r o fe s s i o n a l d i ve r a n d t h e v a r i o u s s t y l i s t i c i n t e r p r e t a t i o n s e a c h w a t c h m a ke r l a v i s h e s o n t h e i r c r e a t i o n s , a g r e a t d i ve w a t c h c a n b e t h e c o r n e r s t o n e o f a ny c o l l e c t i o n . W h e t h e r yo u r e g u l a r l y f i n d yo u r s e l f h u n d r e d s o f m e t r e s d ow n o r r e m a i n a d e s k d i ve r w i t h a s p i r a t i o n s o f s p o r t i n g e x c e l l e n c e o n yo u r n e x t b e a c h s i d e h o l i d a y, t h e r e ’s a p i e c e o f u n d e r w a t e r h o r o l o g y fo r yo u a t b o t h e n d s o f t h e p r i c i n g s p e c t r u m . S o , f r o m yo u r n e w k n o c k a b o u t t i m e ke e p e r t o a fe w m o r e s e r i o u s i nve s t m e n t s , h e r e a r e o u r f a vo u r i t e d i ve w a t c h e s o f t h e ye a r s o f a r.

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FRONT — dive watches

CHRISTOPHER WARD C60 Sapphire, £795

Christopher Ward’s latest volley designed to upset the watch world is one of the most striking to emerge from the British brand since its revamped Trident took centre stage as an affordable, serious diver. This version replaces the dial with a sheet of tinted sapphire crystal for a semi-skeletonised look and pairs perfectly with an orange and blue hybrid strap. If there’s one watch that seems too well-priced to be true, it’s this one – but trust us when we say it’s as great value as it seems.

THE DETAIL • 40mm stainless steel case with 600m water resistance • Sellita SW200-1 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • christopherward.co.uk

If there’s one watch that seems too well-priced to be true, it’s this one ”

FARER

Leven Titanium, £995

Farer’s Compressor cased diver is one of the coolest affordable divers out there and in this latest version that retro nautical style is matched with distinctly modern, ultra-lightweight titanium. Available in three different colourways, our pick is the black, orange and silver Leven. Finished with Farer’s signature bronze crown and powered by a Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré, it’s as solid as it is chic. If that weren’t enough, a portion of the profits also go to the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust, which is nice.

THE DETAIL • 41.5mm titanium case with 300m water resistance • SELLITA SW200-1 Elaboré movement with 38-hour power reserve • farer.com

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FRONT — dive watches

DRAKEN

Benguela, £397.57

Launching on Kickstarter later this month, the Benguela is one that’s worth getting in early for. Like its predecessor, the Tulega, it uses Draken’s South African heritage as inspiration with a uniquely-shaped bezel and tapered sides referencing the local Protea flower. It’s a shape repeated across the indexes on the sandwich dial and, while less bright than the Tulega’s blue, it’s no less handsome with a dark green dial. Water resistant to 500m, it’s an incredible amount of watch for the money, whether you preorder at the Kickstarter price of $349 (for the Japanese movement) or not.

It uses its South African heritage as inspiration with sides referencing the local Protea flower ”

THE DETAIL • 43mm stainless steel case with 500-1000m water resistance (to be confirmed) • Seiko NH35A calibre automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • Launching on Kickstarter in July, drakenwatches.com

WOLBROOK

Skindiver WT Automatic, £378

One of the most extreme tool watches from the 1960s sees a new reincarnation in the Wolbrook Skindiver WT automatic, inspired by the watch worn by none other than Neil Armstrong. Launched on Kickstarter, this is a handsome traveller’s timepiece that straddles the line between practical diving watch and worldtimer, while remaining authentic to its roots. That said, the Automatic here uses a sapphire crystal rather than the NASA-approved Hesalite of the Professional edition. For terrestrial exploration though, it’s what we’d pick.

THE DETAIL • 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistancee • Miyota 8125 calibre automatic movement

Inside is the Miyota 8215 calibre automatic movement, equipped with a cool red and black roulette date disk. Sporting a 40-hour power reserve, it’s a reliable movement suited for the extreme conditions the Skindiver is built for.

with 40-hour power reserve • wolbrook.com

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FRONT — dive watches

THE DETAIL • 43.2mm hard greycoated stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

SEIKO

Street Series Urban Safari SRPE29, £510

Seiko Calibre 4R36 automatic movement

A version of Seiko’s legendary Tuna Can that you don’t need an Expendables-level physique to wear? The world is finally put to rights. Aside from the iconic case shape, this particular model is finished with a lovely khaki brown, tying into the ‘urban safari’ theme of the four-piece capsule collection it’s a part of. It’s a little less water resistant than some professional divers at 200m, but the callback to the 1975 original is more than worth it.

with 40-hour power reserve • seikoboutique.co.uk

THE DETAIL • 44mm black DLC stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • NH35A Seiko movement with 41-hour power reserve • briston-watches.com

BRISTON

Clubmaster Diver Pro, £582.05

Between the charming, preppier cushion case and the solid diving credentials, you can think of Briston’s latest

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underwater explorer as an accessibly British take on the Panerai Luminor Submersible. Not that accessibility means a lack of quality; the Diver Pro boasts a unidirectional ceramic bezel, a solid, black

DLC case and an ever-reliable Seiko movement, all wrapped in a very handsome package. In short, it hits a class or two above what its price tag might suggest.


FRONT — dive watches

MICHEL HERBELIN

Trophy, £760

Despite its more than respectable 300m water resistance, Michel Herbelin’s elegant Trophy is just as at home on land as it is in the water. Gold hour markers stand out nicely against the black dial and bezel for a faux bi-colour look, an understated twist on a classic tool watch. Finished on a hi-tech strap made of FKM rubber, the French-made Trophy is the perfect balance of marine practicality and looks good enough to hold its own back at the yacht club, even against much more expensive timepieces.

THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Sellita 11 ½ SW200-1 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • michel-herbelin.com

the Valiant, has much more shorebound inspirations. An ode to the fire service, it includes details that hint at its origins in the form of a fire bell chime second hand, a fire-engine-chequered inner

WILLIAM WOOD Valiant The Red Watch, £695

Despite being a self-evident diver, British brand William Wood’s flagship timepiece,

bezel and rank markings at 12 o’clock. The usual diving rubber strap too has been replaced with upcycled fire hose – just as practical but far, far more interesting. You can almost smell the smoke… THE DETAIL • 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Seiko NH35 calibre automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • williamwoodwatches.com

The usual diving rubber strap too has been replaced with upcycled fire hose ” 53


FRONT — dive watches

TAKING THE PLUNGE: £1,000 - £4,999

THE DETAIL • 46mm black PVD-coated

As things get deeper, darker and ever more demanding, you want a watch that’ll not just survive in the oceanic abyss, but thrive there – preferably while looking damn fine at the same time. They may be more of an investment, but they’re worth every penny.

titanium case with 1,000m water resistance • H-10 calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • Limited to 888 pieces, hamiltonwatch.com

HAMILTON

Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Tenet, £1,890

Hamilton’s relationship with Hollywood is stronger than ever and this huge, impressively rugged diver follows on from the watchmaker's previous Interstellar collaboration with Christopher Nolan for new sci-fi thriller Tenet. The blacked out stealth watch is a beast, though thanks to the PVD-coated titanium is more lightweight than you’d expect. Between the visible screws, signature crown protector and black-on-black dial, the Tenet Limited Edition is incredibly cool. Here’s hoping the film’s anywhere near as good. It’s Christopher Nolan; it probably will be.

DELMA THE DETAIL • 47mm stainless steel case with 4,000m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • Limited to 500 pieces, delma.ch

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Blue Shark III, £1,900

While we’re huge fans of Delma’s 70s-inspired Cayman Worldtimer, it’s hard to call it a true diver, despite its impressive water resistance. The same can’t be said of the Blue Shark III. Water resistant to 4,000m, its looks match that astounding performance with a chunky bezel and crown guard, plenty of lume and striking, high-contrast dials. Given the choice, we’d opt for the blue-dialled, black DLC bezelled version, an incredible timepiece for depths no human should ever reach.


FRONT — dive watches

RESERVOIR

THE DETAIL

Hydrosphere Air Gauge, £3,426.20

• 45mm stainless steel

Inspired by the air gauges of early divers, complete with the blue, green and red warning colours, the Hydrosphere’s unique layout lends itself to Reservoir’s penchant for all things retrograde. Hours are displayed at 6 o’clock, leaving the entire rest of the dial free for the minutes. Between that dial and the big, 45mm, technical-feeling case the Hydrosphere Air Gauge is one of the most visually-interesting divers out there. Now we’re just waiting to see the upcoming bronze version…

case with 250m water resistance • ETA 2824-2 caliber automatic movement with proprietary module and 37-hour power reserve • reservoir-watch.com

ALPINA

Seastrong Diver Gyre, £1,243.66

It's not the first to use recycled materials in its cases, but Alpina’s Gyre version of its flagship Seastrong diver is one of the coolest upcycled watches around. The limited edition collection has all the hallmarks of a serious diving watch – including 300m water resistance – in a spectrum of bright ocean colours across smoked dials. The 44mm case is a composite made from fishing nets, all to draw attention to World Oceans Day. If you didn’t realise it was last month, Alpina is evidently not quite hitting the mark. Still, it’s a nice automatic watch for a typically great price.

THE DETAIL • 44mm recycled composite case water resistant to 300m • AL-525 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • Limited to 1,883 pieces, alpinawatches.com

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FRONT — dive watches

ANDERSMANN

Bronze, £1,492.83

The three words that define Hong Kong-based micro Andersmann are quality, classic and minimalism, three tenets it holds to dearly, especially in its latest bronze-clad release. A 44mm weight of metal, the asymmetrical tool watch is as serious as divers come, water resistant to 1,000m. If you’re a fan of bronze but find the mainstream offerings lacking, Andersmann has you covered.

THE DETAIL • 44mm bronze case with 1,000m water resistance • ETA2892-A2 calibre automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • andersmann.com

THE DETAIL

BALL

DeepQUEST, £3,000

42mm titanium monobloc

There’s chunky, then there’s the latest version of Ball’s DeepQUEST. It’s not just the oversized bezel with its cog-like protrusions or the undersea ridge of rubber that makes the strap; even the numerals and indexes, which use Ball’s proprietary H3 gas tubes, are wonderfully over the top. Fortunately all that machismo has a point, too. The DeepQUEST is water resistant down to 1,000m and is bright and legible no matter how far towards that abyssal depth you decide to go.

case with 1,000m water resistance • BALL RR1101-C calibre automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve • ballwatch.com

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THE DETAIL

IN THE DEEP: OVER £5,000

• 43.2mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Glashütte Original calibre 36.13, automatic movement with 100h power reserve • glashuette-original.com

These are that watches that match diving credentials – or heritage at the very least – with horological prestige at every level. Whether it’s something cutting-edge or classically beautiful, they are the top end of the diving watch market. If you don’t want to risk them in the water, we wouldn’t blame you.

GLASHÜTTE

Original SeaQ Panorama Date Bi-Colour, £12,400

Despite the majority of Glashütte watches erring towards the classical, the Spezialist collection’s SeaQ Panorama Date is an impeccable, Saxon-slanted diver. The new Bi-Colour takes things further with a gold bezel and crown paired with a steel case, balancing practicality with retro style. The movement is far more beautiful than you expect from a diver thanks to the manufacture region’s hallmark three-quarter plate and Glashütte stripes. It’s a lot more than a tool watch.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Polaris Date, £6,850

Instantly recognisable thanks to its twin crowns, rotating inner bezel and pure 70s style, this modern update of the Polaris II pairs the watch's diving heritage with a distinctly non-tool-like hand-lacquered blue dial. It’s not the highest-rated out there in terms of depth resistance – 200m is respectable if not extraordinary – but between its retro style and magnificent dial, this is one of the most beautiful desk divers around. Even if could go down to 1,000m, who’d risk it? THE DETAIL • 42mm stainless steel with 200m water

BLANCPAIN

Fifty Fathoms Grande Date Titanium, £14,700

Among the most influential diving watches in the world, the Fifty Fathoms is on many a collectors’ dream watchlist. This latest version is more a variation on the established theme than a brand-new watch, pairing a titanium case with a metal-matched lightweight bracelet. The larger date apertures make for a slight twist, but otherwise it’s a comfortable, practical version of a nautical icon that calls back to the titanium, militaryspec pieces Blancpain created as early as the 1960s.

resistance • 899A/1 calibre automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • Limited to 800 pieces, jaeger-lecoultre.com THE DETAIL • 45mm titanium case with 300m water resistance • 6918B calibre automatic movement with 120-hour power reserve • blancpain.com


FRONT — dive watches

ROLEX

Sea-Dweller Rolesor, £13,300

We can’t talk about diving watches without including Rolex and, while its 2020 offerings have been delayed until the light at the end of the Covid-19 tunnel is visible, last year’s bi-colour Sea-Dweller is still one of the finest divers out there. Water resistant to 1,220m (Rolex prefers to round at the imperial 4,000ft) and boasting the classic two-tone look of vintage Rolex models, the latest take on the legendary diver has us waiting with baited breath for what the brand will be releasing later in the year. THE DETAIL • 43mm steel and gold case with 1,220m water resistance • Roles 3235 calibre automatic movement 70-hour power reserve • rolex.com

PANERAI

Luminor Marina Fibratech™ Vulcano Blu, £14,300

Rather than focus on just one of its advanced materials, Panerai’s regular-collection version of the Fibratech uses both the titular basalt-based creation for its case and Carbotech across both bezel and crown. There’s a nice textural contrast between both of the materials – the more natural Fibratech with the more uniform, technicallooking carbon – centred around a brilliant blue dial. With 300m water resistance, it’s at the middle of Panerai’s diving offering, but is at the top end when it comes to pure, sexy Paneristi appeal.

THE DETAIL • 44mm Fibratech™ case with 300m water resistance • P.9010 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • panerai.com

OMEGA

Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m America’s Cup, £5,650

THE DETAIL • 43.5mm stainless steel case with 600m water resistance • Omega 8900 calibre co-axial movement with 60-hour power reserve • Limited to 2,021 pieces, omegawatches.com

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The America’s Cup is one of the most prestigious sporting events in the world and, as the official timekeeper, Omega has released a fitting limited edition in honour of the 36th race. The blue, white and red of the cup lend themselves nicely to the Swiss watchmaker’s flagship diver, especially on the colour-matched hybrid strap. Throw in 600m water resistance and an incredibly reliable Co-Axial movement and you have a solid, sporty limited edition with serious horological chops.


FRONT — panerai experiences

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FRONT — panerai experiences

THE PANERAI

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

FOR THE HERITAGE WATCHMAKER, THE PANERAI NAME IS MORE THAN JUST A LABEL; IT’S A LIFESTYLE

EXPERIENCE 61


FRONT — panerai experiences

Nobody buys a luxury watch for practical purposes. Sure they can justify a diver or a chronograph because it might be useful at some point in the far-flung future, but let’s be honest it’s more a lifestyle choice than it is a functional one. That’s fine of course; it’s the horological equivalent of buying a hypercar. You’re never going to hit that 300mph, but it’s nice to know it’s there. Where most watch brands fall down though is making that lifestyle a reality. Whereas a supercar marque can get collectors on the track to really push their cars, what can a watchmaker do? A tour of the manufacture? Well, Florentineslanted nautical watchmaker Panerai is taking a more extreme approach. “We wanted to offer our customers something that goes beyond just buying a watch,” explains Jean-Marc Pontroué. “To allow them to experience the Panerai DNA and test their watch in the most extreme conditions.” It’s something Jean-Marc has taken incredibly seriously since signing onto the diving watch legend back in 2018. At SIHH 2019, Panerai celebrated the revamp of the Luminor Submersible collection with a handful of limited editions that came with a experiential package attached. “We wanted it to feel like you were getting a ticket to something money can’t buy. You pay for the watch and included with it you get a tailormade experience that’s not in any catalogues.” In the case of the Guillaume Nery Edition, that meant taking a plunge in French Polynesia with the freediving champion; for the Mike Horn edition, it meant a trip with the arctic explorer. They all sound pretty extreme, but as Jean-Marc puts it, “If it’s not hard enough you won’t remember it; if it’s too hard you will remember it but not for good reasons. It’s a careful balance between adrenaline and fun.” And of course plenty of wining and dining along the way. The first of the experiences though, the one that set the tone and the one that was the most ‘Panerai’

“We wanted to allow them to experience the Panerai DNA and test their watch in the most extreme conditions” Experiences with Guillaume Nery (above) and Mike Horn (right) come included with the price of two new Panerai watches

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FRONT — panerai experiences

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FRONT — panerai experiences

of the lot was training with the COMSUBIN, the commandos of the Italian Navy, with which the watchmaker shares a good deal of history. Arranging two days of training at a military installation is easier said than done and even the Panerai name struggles to open some doors. When Jean-Marc first mooted the idea to the COMSUBIN, they rejected it straight away. Civilians, at a military installation? Training? But eventually, they started to think about it. “It helped that we were interested in their way of living,” says Jean-Marc of the negotiations. “The fact that we are promoting their training approach, that preparation of body and mind. They could see the synergy as we could.” Needless to say that the military finally gave the go-ahead for Panerai to organise their event – with some caveats. “There were certain things and certain people that we weren’t allowed to photograph”, says Jean-Marc of the working military installation. It’s not surprising. With so many collectors there – all of, let’s say, a certain status – you’d expect a little bit of competition going on. “Of course! Nobody wants to look stupid in front of the COMSUBIN. But there wasn’t a competition as such – there was nothing to win. It was all about the beauty of experiencing something nobody else ever has.” Obviously the events of 2020 have set back Panerai’s ambitions a little; it’s hard to create a portfolio of globe-trotting experiences when you can’t leave the country. But as far as Jean-Marc’s concerned, the sky’s the limit: “If everything goes well we’ll have six to eight experiences for about 250 people across 2021. One will be heading the North Pole with Mike Horn, spending ten hours trekking across parts of the world where only he has been; then there’s the final of the America’s Cup with Luna Rossa in New Zealand.” As far as Jean-Marc’s concerned though, that’s only the beginning. “Now every country wants its own experience and, if there’s the synergy there we’re open to the idea, of course.” So does that mean that we in the UK will be getting our own limited edition Panerai, complete with life-changing experience? “We need to create a watch, we need to find a location and we need to find the right ambassador, someone that reflects Panerai’s philosophies – the British Army, a sports person... More important than anything is that whatever we do reflects the Panerai lifestyle.” And what a lifestyle it is.

Purchasers of the Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech went to train with the COMSUBIN, a special forces group of the Italian Navy

“Now every country wants its own experience and, if there’s the synergy there we’re open to the idea” 64


STYLE — photoshoot

GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL SEAQ 39.5mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance 39-11 automatic movement with 40hour power reserve £7,500, glashuetteoriginal.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

BREITLING SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE ’57 LIMITED EDITION 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance Breitling 10 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve £3,990, breitling.com

depth of vision In the unforgiving depths of the ocean, a timepiece must do much more than look good – it also has to contend with the elements. Still, that doesn’t mean it can’t do both. Here are a few of our lume-heavy favourites. Photography: TOM PETTIT / FRASER VINCENT

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STYLE — photoshoot

GRAND SEIKO 60TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION PROFESSIONAL DIVER’S 600M 46.9mm high intensity titanium case with 600m water resistance Spring Drive 5 Day Caliber 9RA5 automatic movement with 5-day power reserve £10,000, grand-seiko.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

BALL ENGINEER HYDROCARBON NEDU 42mm titanium case with 600m water resistance BALL RR1402-C automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve £3,580, ballwatch.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

DOXA SUB 300 CARBON AQUA LUNG US DIVERS 42.5mm forged carbon case with 300m water resistance ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £4,590, doxawatches.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

ORIS DIVERS SIXTY-FIVE HOLSTEIN EDITION 43mm bronze case with 100m water resistance Oris 771 automatic movement with 48hour power reserve £3,750, oris.ch

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STYLE — photoshoot

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M DEEP BLACK 45.5mm ceramic case with 600m water resistance Omega 8906 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve £9,040, omegawatches.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

DELMA SHELL STAR BLACK TAG 44mm black DLC stainless steel case with 500m water resistance ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £1,150, delma.ch

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STYLE — photoshoot

RADO CAPTAIN COOK AUTOMATIC BRONZE 42mm bronze case with 300m water resistance ETA C07 automatic movement With 80hour power reserve £2,415, rado.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

ALPINA SEASTRONG GMT 44mm PVD-coated stainless steel case with 300m water resistance ALPINA AL-247 QUARTZ CALIBER £695, alpinawatches.com

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STYLE — opener

Style 78/ Coastal labels 85/ Get the look with our style edit

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STYLE — coastal labels

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STYLE — coastal labels

Words: NICK CARVELL

THE

COASTAL LABELS NOW DOCKING IN THE CITY

Being sartorially seaworthy has never been more on-trend. Here are this country’s finest makers of nautical-inspired clothing

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STYLE — coastal labels

The pandemic has made us all acutely aware of where we live. Working from home in London presented with the same view of concrete and cars out of the window, nothing feels further removed from my daily life than getting out on the beach and breathing salty sea air. Living in a city, there’s always that feeling just under the surface of disconnection from the natural world, and this has only intensified during lockdown. Perhaps that’s why I’ve gravitated towards brands that sell me that coastal fantasy, transporting me to a place where windswept sand dunes and crashing waves are bathed in a sunset-pink Instagram filter. Thankfully our homegrown clothing scene has me covered. Around this country’s shores you’ll find a selection of labels, both established and new wave, who make

It vibes off the glory days of the town as one of Britain’s coolest mid-century beach resorts, but it also celebrates what makes the area cool now 80

This page: Matthew and Sarah Tomkins of Margate’s Palm Bay Skates use a seasideinspired colour palette in their skatewear Right: Blackshore clothing is inspired by the practical workwear of its home, the fishing town of Southwold

the kind of rugged-yet-refined menswear that brings the seaside into your wardrobe – and, since Covid-19 hit, their popularity has notably increased in cities. “Up until very recently, interest in our brand was mainly local – most of our Instagram followers were from Thanet,” says Matthew Tompkins of Margate-based Palm Bay Skates (palmbayskates.com). “However, in the past four or five months we’re getting a lot more followers from London, and posting more online orders out to the city.” Jointly founded by Tomkins and his wife Sarah in 2016, the brand operates out of a small turn-of-thetwentieth-century storefront in the town’s fashionable Cliftonville district, close to the local skate scene and a stone’s throw from Palm Bay Beach. On the surface its offering of sweats, T-shirts and baseball tops might not feel particularly coastal, but the seaside is there in the spirit of the pieces: the colour palette of washed out oranges, pinks, reds and blues are inspired by the sunsets over Margate, the typefaces and graphics are taken from signs (such as the one that famously flashed over the entrance to the recently-reopened Dreamland amusement park), the logo is a shell. It vibes off the glory days of the town as one of Britain’s coolest midcentury beach resorts, but it also celebrates what makes the area cool now (skateboarding) – and combines the two on pieces made in Margate that anyone can wear whether they’re in London or skating around Cliftonville.


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STYLE — coastal labels

Three hours’ drive up the coast in the small Suffolk town of Southwold, Blackshore Clothing (blackshore.cc) has discovered a similar newfound popularity with city-dwellers. “We’re only two hours from London, but it feels like a different world here,” says the brand’s managing director Sam Middleton. “I think a lot of the people who visit from the city, who work in finance or the media, want to be fishermen deep in their hearts, but just not for a living. However, dressing a bit like a fisherman helps them get a little closer to it back in the city.” Middleton, who lives in the town, established Blackshore Clothing in 2017 after getting inspired by what locals in the area wore – the practical, hardy clothes that still made the cut with the locals in a working fishing town. “All our items relate back to coastal workwear. We have a fairly limited colour palette of various shades of blue and the fabrics we use tend to be cottons, canvases, denims, and oiled wools,” says Middleton. “The inspiration for the look and feel was me kicking around in the boatyard, watching the people work and the utilitarian clothes they all wore, often involving bright orange safety gear, which is why you get splashes of orange in our pieces too.” However, you could argue that a whole host of menswear labels around the country are inspired by nautical workwear. What truly sets the navy Guernseys, pleated trousers, cagoules and smocks apart from the crowd at Blackshore? Well, apart from every item being made in a workshop on site in Southwold (“We’re making six garments a week right now, we’re tiny!”), even the philosophy of sustainability the brand possesses is taken from the sea. “We offer a lifetime guarantee on our products. We want people to come back in ten years’ time and ask us to fix them,” says Middleton, “It’s a bit like boats that go on and on and on because you’re constantly replacing bits of them and making them better – you don’t just throw one away when a new one comes out.” Perhaps with the tide turning and consumers becoming more aware of the need for us all to think harder about where our clothes come from, ultimately

Above, from top: Simon Middleton, founder of Blackshore Clothing; Sienna Guillory of Carrier Company Left page: all Carrier Company except bottom-right (Blackshore)

“It’s a bit like boats that go on and on – you don’t just throw one away when a new one comes out” sustainability and supporting local craftsmanship, as well as the sartorial escapism these pieces provide, is what is really driving interest in small British coastal brands. As a rule, at coastal brands, small batches, superb UK-woven fabrics and local artisans are what define their output beyond the look of the items they make. For another example, you only have to journey an hour-and-a-half from Southwold to the north Norfolk coast to visit the Carrier Company workshop in Wighton (carriercompany.co.uk). Created by landscaper Tina Guillory in 1995 as a company that made jute garden

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carriers (hence the name), the label has since evolved into a fully formed clothing and lifestyle line. Guillory has since been joined by her daughter Sienna and her daughter’s husband Enzo Cilenti, as well as a handful of staff who handle making the items in the workshop. When it comes to menswear, its collection is populated by jerkins, wool overshirts, linen shirts and its signature Norfolk Slop (a kind of funnelnecked smock cut from hardy cotton drill that’s traditionally worn by sailors in the area). Much like all the brands mentioned here, Carrier Company doesn’t do seasonal collections, preferring instead to add new pieces to its site when they discover a hole to fill – or simply see something they’d like to wear themselves. “We’re not fishermen, but we do a fisherman’s jumper because it works really well for everyday gear. It’s our version of it,” says Cilenti, when I call him in Norfolk. “And the best thing is that because we make everything locally, we can have a sample out of the workshop in five days to test drive out on the beach, on a boat, wading through the marshes. If we like wearing it and it works, then we put it into production.” What makes Cilenti different to the other people on the team at Carrier Company is that he’s currently not a permanent resident in Wighton. While currently preparing to move to Norfolk full time to help his family with the brand, Cilenti is primarily an actor by trade and has spent much of his life living in London (he was most recently seen opposite Andrew Scott in The Old Vic’s production of Present Laughter). This gives him an insight into what city folk find inherently attractive in coastal brands, even more so at a time of uncertainty and enforced confinement. “People are buying a lifestyle. I can say that because I don’t live here yet and I’m not from here,” he says. “It’s great being in London, but I always look forward to leaving for long weekends here by the sea. I think people, more now than ever, really want what they haven’t got.” And while it will be tricky for anyone to get to the coast for the foreseeable future, maybe a piece of clothing that reminds us of lazy days on the beach is the simple escapism we need until we get there.


STYLE — must-haves

BRETON SHIRT

Legend has it that the 21 white and blue stripes on the traditional Breton shirt (or ‘marinière’), first adopted by the French Navy in the mid 19th century, represented each of Napoleon’s victories over the British. However, while originally a symbol of French military pride, it has now become a go-to for men looking to bring a certain je ne sais quoi to their casual outfits whatever their personal style - or political allegiance.

Nautical but nice

EVEN WARDROBES IN THE MOST LANDLOCKED AREAS OF THE COUNTRY ARE PACKED WITH PIECES THAT WERE ORIGINALLY INTENDED FOR A LIFE AT SEA. HERE, WE TAKE A DIVE INTO A FEW OF THE NAUTICALLYDERIVED ITEMS THAT, IF YOU DON’T ALREADY OWN, YOU SHOULD ANCHOR YOUR SUMMER OUTFITS WITH. edit: NICK CARVELL

AMI,

> Breton stripe shirts have been a mainstay of Alexandre Mattiussi’s collections from Ami since he founded the label in Paris back in 2011. The heart-logoed ‘Ami de Coeur’ collection features the designer’s take on the genre in a series of cool, wearable colours (the dark green is a particular highlight). Proof perhaps that the French still do it best. £120, AMIPARIS.COM

SAINT JAMES,

> For a traditional marinière, take a look at Saint James’ Naval top. It’s made using the traditional design of 21 white stripes measuring 20mm wide and alternating blue stripes measuring 10mm wide on the body, and 15 white stripes on the sleeves (which are cropped so they don’t poke out under a sailor’s pea coat). £95, SAINT-JAMES.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

NORSE PROJECTS,

> One of the things that’s made the Breton shirt such an enduring part of both men’s and women’s wardrobes is that its design can be continually reimagined. This from Danish label Norse Projects takes the traditional, swaps out the signature blue for black and adds a new layer of contrasting-sized stripes to create something that feels far more suited to the pavements than the promenade deck. £110, NORSEPROJECTS.COM

ARMOR LUX,

> Blue not your colour? Looking for something sunnier? You won’t find a Breton shirt that feels more summery than this orange and white iteration from Armor Lux – one of France’s original maritime menswear makers (it’s been crafting shirts like this since 1938). £59, AT ENDCLOTHING.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

CPO JACKET

Originally introduced as part of the uniform for Chief Petty Officers in the US Navy during the 1930s, the CPO jacket was the prototype for what we might now call a ‘shacket’. More sturdy than a shirt but not quite as heavy as a coat, it was intended as a chill-beating top layer that slipped nicely over a jumper when a crewmember headed deckside. Today, cuts are generally slimmer (so can be worn over a T-shirt rather than a thick sweater) and materials lighter (a drill cotton or flannel rather than thick wool), but those signature double chest pockets remain.

ARKET,

> While there have been a couple of design tweaks from a traditional CPO jacket here (no flap pockets, a less boxy cut), perhaps the biggest innovation with Arket’s version is that it’s crafted from organic cotton, meaning it’s been cultivated without the use of chemical pesticides or fertilisers. £69, ARKET.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

NIGEL CABOURN,

> For an even lighter option, try this striped version of the CPO jacket from Nigel Cabourn. Distinctly more ‘shirt’ than ‘shacket’, this breezy cotton model has elbow patches and a tab collar for added interest as well as a curved hem that makes it perfect for wearing untucked with a pair of wide-legged chinos. £150, CABOURN.COM

STAN RAY,

> Founded in Texas in 1972, Stan Ray specialises in clothes that are durable and often influenced by traditional military garb – so it’s no wonder that the CPO jacket has become a cornerstone of its all-year offering. Available in a series of colours including green and ecru, the traditional blue still feels like a real standout. £115, AT ENDCLOTHING.COM

PRIVATE WHITE VC,

> Made at the label’s factory in Manchester, Private White VC’s lightweight cotton take on the CPO jacket is perfect for evenings at this time of year where you don’t want something too heavy, but still need to keep the breeze at bay – and the copper stud fastenings down the centre set it apart from its plain-poppered peers. £275, PRIVATEWHITEVC.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

SWIM SHORTS

Swim shorts as we know them today are a relatively recent invention. When surf culture kicked off in Hawaii and California in the 1950s, surf fans chose to reject the combination of high-waisted clingy cotton underpants and singlets that was the accepted swim attire for men at the time, and instead simply wore their chinos chopped off above the knee (often leaving details like adjustable tabs in place). In doing so, they created the silhouette of purpose-made swim shorts we know today with a tailored shape and mid-thigh length, cut from hard-wearing fabric that would morph from cotton to quick-drying material as technology improved.

THALASSOPHY,

> Beachwear brand Thalassophy takes its responsibility to make our world a better place seriously. Not only are its eye-catching shorts crafted from 100-per-cent recycled polyester, but also, when you purchase a pair, the label will make a donation to one of their chosen charities (currently Sane or Surfers Against Sewage) in your name. ÂŁ155, THALASSOPHY.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

TRUNK CLOTHIERS,

HEMINGSWORTH,

> Made in London, these shorts are as close to a pair of tailored summer slacks as you can get. Cut from dark green seersucker, they are finished with mother of pearl buttons, a double button closure and side tabs for a perfect fit. There’s even a matching blazer. Talk about a swim suit. £185, HEMINGSWORTH.COM

ONIA,

> Cut from a quick-drying stretch nylon fabric and fitted with a part-elasticated waist, these shorts from New York swim label Onia manage to look smart while still being superbly comfortable. You’ll find fewer shorts that are as suitable for the beach as they are for the bar after sundown. £104, ONIA.COM

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> For something at the sportier end of sleek, try this pair of swimmers from Trunk Clothiers. Available in a series of summery blues and yellows, they are classic in both tone and fit, hitting mid-thigh and cut slim but not skin tight. £95, TRUNKCLOTHIERS.COM


STYLE — must-haves

DECK SHOES

In 1935, after noticing how well his dog could stay steady on the slippery surface of his boat, Alfred A Sperry carved lines into the soles of his moccasins to try and emulate the same canine grip – and the rest is history. This style became known as the Sperry Topsider and while it might have originated in New England, today a similar silhouette is replicated and reimagined by shoemakers all over the globe.

POLO RALPH LAUREN,

> Another genre-bending take on the style from US prepmaster Ralph Lauren. This time, the traditional deck shoe shape is spliced with the genes of another classic American shoe, the moccasin, thanks to its embellished leather laces and rich tan suede upper. £65, RALPHLAUREN.CO.UK

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STYLE — must-haves

SEBAGO X BARACUTA,

> Sebago has teamed up with Baracuta, makers of every Mod’s favourite G9 jacket, on a capsule line of eye-catching, colourful suede remixes of the shoe brand’s classic Docksides. This green and blue model, fitted with dark red laces, is as playful as it is preppy. £150, SEBAGO.CO.UK

PARABOOT FOR ARPENTEUR,

> The cool Lyon-based clothing label has teamed up with French footwear-maker Paraboot to give us a Gallic twist on the signature New England shoe. The result is about as rock ‘n’ roll a deck show can get, with a black ‘don’t mess with me’ chunky sole, black Italian nubuck leather and black laces. £275, ARPENTEUR.FR

QUODDY,

> While invented in New England, very few deck shoes are still actually made there. However, Quoddy is a notable exception. Based in Maine, this shoemaker prides itself on making nautical-inspired kicks defined by excellent materials, artisan craftsmanship and small batches. £155, AT MRPORTER.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

NEW WAVE AQUATICS

Just like bucket hats and big-logo tracksuits, the current resurgence of aquatic scents is proof that the Nineties are still trending in a big way. Also known as ‘marines’ or ‘ozonics’, these types of fragrances became the antidote to the bold, bombastic fragrances of the Eighties (see: YSL Jazz, Dior Farenheit). Their USP was utilising molecules that added cleanliness and crispness to other notes in a fragrance, as well as the impression of, for want of a better word, ‘watery-ness’. In short, one spritz and you’re walking along the beach in the salty sea air. Thirty year later, perfumers are rediscovering the power these ozonic notes have to stimulate your senses and evoke an instantly summer-bythe-sea vibe. Here are a few of my favourite new releases and aquatic classics that give you a new way to get in on this Nineties revival (no bucket hat required).

HERMÈS HERMESSENCE ÉPICE MARINE,

> Inspired by the coast of Brittany, perfumer JeanClaude Ellena has created a deep, spicy take on an aquatic. Opening with a huge hit of cumin, the fragrance gets added smoothness from whiskey, hazelnut and cardamom as well as a fresh zing of bergamot. £189 FOR 100ML, AT SELFRIDGES.COM

RALPH LAUREN ‘POLO DEEP BLUE’,

> The latest addition to the Polo Blue family, Polo Deep Blue is defined by its aquatic ingredient of CristalFizz (a note created by the perfumer) which not only deepens the intensity of this woody-aromatic scent, but also gives the fragrance a pleasing, yet hard-to-describe olfactory effervescence. £75 FOR 75ML, RALPHLAUREN.CO.UK

HUGO BOSS ‘HUGO NOW’,

> Often watery notes bubble under the surface of a fragrance, but they’re front and centre with Hugo Now. The scent is dominated by an initial hit of icey water, before mellowing into a fresh, citrusy blend of lemon, cardamom, mint and lavender. £49 FOR 75ML, HUGOBOSS.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

DAVIDOFF ‘COOL WATER’,

> Often copied, but never beaten, Davidoff Cool Water is one of the greatest aquatics of all time. Originally released in 1988, its combination of marine notes mixed with tobacco, lavender, woods, spices and geranium has become legendary – an ageless classic. £52 FOR 125ML, AT BOOTS.COM

ORTO PARISI ‘MEGAMARE’,

> Designed by perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri, this is a big, bold take on an aquatic scent. Salty and musky close-up, but watery with a hit of seaweed further away, this less a day at the beach and more a dark, stormy, sexy trip to the bottom of the ocean. £138 FOR 50ML, AT LIBERTYLONDON.COM

TOM FORD ‘OUD MINÉRALE’,

> Ozonic notes aren’t just to give the sense of being by the sea, they can also be used to give a certain minerality to a scent – and Tom Ford’s Oud Minerale is a masterclass in this. Here rich woods are mixed with sea notes, salt and seaweed to create a fragrance that feels crisp, cool and completely unique. £164 FOR 50ML, TOMFORD.COM

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© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 42mm stainless steel case water resistant to 100m • Breitling calibre 10 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • £3,990, limited edition of 250, breitling.com

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FRONT — watch reviews

BREITLING Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition

When Breitling digitally launched its collection a couple of months ago, it was mostly a safe selection of pieces. A few charming new Navitimers and a full collection in the form of the Chronomat, all nice, vaguely interesting watches. Then there was this, a watch that I wanted at first sight: the Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition. As the name suggests, the limited-time capsule collection to which this watch belongs is inspired by a very specific Superocean from the 1950s. The watch in question is a quirky little number, defined by an odd concave bezel and unusual indexes, both of which have been reinterpreted across the Heritage ’57 pieces. That all said, despite aspirations to Bohemia and Woodstock, the regular Heritage ‘57s still feel more boardroom than Beat Generation. Not so the limited edition.

The regular Heritage ‘57s still feel more boardroom than Beat Generation. Not so the limited edition

One of the most playful timepieces Breitling has ever produced (assuming the ridiculous Breitlite-cased monstrosities weren’t pure satire), the magnificent dial of the Heritage ’57 LE is defined by a rainbow of bright colour across the indexes. It’s not subtle either; against the black background the varicoloured indexes it pops more than a Warhol exhibition, helped along by the crossed-out circles of lume at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. Don’t worry about it looking ridiculous on the wrist though. Sure it’s bright and it will get noticed plenty, but it’s not garish like a rainbow-set bezel. It’s definitely more t-shirtand-shorts than suit-and-tie, and definitely geared towards summer than winter, but it’s cool enough to pass muster however you want to wear it. The signature concave ceramic bezel on the other hand is actually just as eye-catching as the dial. Oversized so that it hangs over the edge of the 42mm stainless steel case, its bowl-like shape takes some getting used to; it felt like my eyes were being tricked at first. In a good way. It does make the watch wear slightly bigger, but the effect it has on the silhouette of the watch is well worth it. The dial being as bold as it is, I like that the bezel is about as restrained as an aquatic-inspired timepiece can be. There’s no countdown scale, just hour markers and a 12 o’clock triangle with a dot of yellow lume. That’s in part aesthetic, but also because it’s not a diving bezel – it’s bi-directional, so underwater would risk getting knocked the wrong way. That’s matched by the 100m water resistance, hammering home that this is a watch that likes to be near the water, not necessarily in it. Behind the scenes is the Breitling calibre 10 automatic movement, a COSC-certified variation on the Sellita SW 300-1, complete with a 42-hour power reserve. It’s solid, reliable and uncomplicated, just what the Heritage ’57 needs. My only qualm about the watch is something that’s quite easy to fix: the strap. The contrast-stitched leather’s all well and good, especially as this isn’t really a diving watch per se. But I can’t help but think about what could have been if it were on the optional mesh bracelet instead. I’d probably not have given it back. Between the quirky case shape and that dial, the 250-piece Superocean Heritage ’57 limited edition is retro perfection. If still available as I’m writing this, I doubt it will be by the time you read it. Still, Breitling did release another charity-oriented version with a blue dial. I prefer the black but I’ll take what I can get. £3,990, limited edition of 250, breitling.com

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© Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 43mm bronze case with 100m water resistance • Oris 771 calibre automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve • CHF 4,800, limited to 250 pieces, oris.ch

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FRONT — watch reviews

ORIS Holstein Edition WORDS: James Buttery

Prediction time. If we make it to the end of 2020 in one piece, and I’m still not entirely convinced that’s a done deal, this Oris will be on more than a handful of lists as one of the best watches of the year. There, the Oracle has spoken. The Holstein Edition is a limited edition bronze 30-minute chronograph based on the unstoppable, unbeatable Divers Sixty-Five series and I say that full of bias as the proud owner of a blue lacquered dial stainless steel example. So successful has this model been for the watch company from Holstein that it’s probably not an exaggeration to suggest it has transformed the business. It’s a watch that’s difficult not to like, one that ticks a lot of very popular boxes: it’s a vintage-inspired diver, has one of the most balanced, well-designed dials on the market, is eminently affordable and looks great on the wrist. Oris has also had success with bronze watches in the recent past, first with the Divers Sixty-Five watches honouring US Navy master diver Carl Brashear, later within its versatile Big Crown collection and also using the material to produce innovative bimetal watches. This however is the first time the brand has produced a full bronze watch, bracelet included. Before discussing the use of material let’s talk about the dial which I honestly think might be the best I have seen in the decade I’ve been writing exclusively about watches, it’s just… perfect. The yellow gold tone used for the main dial and hands just sings, while its chronograph track (with fivesecond, single second and 1/5 second markers each given distinct lengths) is more visually satisfying than that of the time-only models. The Holstein’s two high contrast registers (inky black with white type) sit at the nine o’clock and three o’clock positions offer running seconds and a 30-minute chronograph counter. Those brilliant little Divers Sixty-Five lume hour markers are present and correct, here filled with a stark white lume. The whole thing is a masterclass in balance, symmetry and colour choice. Framing the dial (and its glassbox sapphire crystal) is a recessed, unidirectional rotating bezel. I’m not usually a fan of insert-free metal bezels, but here it is in perfect keeping with the rest of the watch and those beautifully proportioned pump pushers to the right. What don’t I like about the watch? Well, this is the first time I’ve spent any real time with a bronze watch and it’s the first time I’ve appreciated the different takes on living with a bronze watch. So this is not a criticism specifically directed at the Oris. Since the days of Panerai’s Bronzo (I’m not certain of the bronze alloy used on Gerald Genta’s Gefica, which was the

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first bronze watch, or whether watch collectors were quite that weird back then) owners have delighted in just how tarnished (sorry, patina’d) they could get their bronze watches, up to and including submerging it in all manner of reactive substances. Bronze makes the transition from factory fresh metal (which is not too dissimilar from gold in appearance) to ‘dirty penny’, all the way through to developing a bright green ‘skin’. I highly recommend the Instagram account of @lordshapleigh, whose particularly sadistic treatment of his own Carl Brashear Divers Sixty-Five deserves special mention. It’s not for me, I like shiny things to remain shiny. The press shots of the Holstein show its case and bracelet in its virgin state, a lustrous golden hue. Personally, I’d want to preserve that tone with a ‘fixed’ bronze alloy that uses a higher proportion of aluminium in the mix, but I appreciate that others love seeing their watch change on a daily basis, so I’m sure that the 250 pieces of this limited run will be snapped up in a matter of minutes. CHF 4,800, limited to 250 pieces, oris.ch

The dial might be the best I have seen in the decade I’ve been writing about watches


CULTURE — food & drink

↓ SMOKESTAK If you’ve missed Smokestak’s iconic barbecue brisket as much as we have, you might have already delved into its Saturday barbecue takeaway offering. However, if you missed that or prefer to work the grill yourself, you’ll be glad to know that the restaurant is starting up Smokestak at Home: DIY bun boxes and smoked meats by the pound for

Delivered via an overnight courier, these premium cuts can be with you ASAP for the upcoming good weather we hope to receive

delivery across the country. Delivered via an overnight courier, these premium cuts can be with you ASAP for the upcoming good weather we hope to receive across the summer months. Have your home barbecue but better with Philip Warren Butchers meats, fully-smoked/cooked in Smokestak’s Shoreditch restaurant before being chilled and vacuum-packed in a thermally insulated and recyclable box. Preparation on your end is simple; reheat and assemble according to the included instructions and then sit back and enjoy in the sunshine. Will you go for the 15-hour smoked beef brisket, brined pulled pork shoulder, dryrubbed pork belly or the chilli and fennel sausage? Of course, you can do a barbecue justice and go for all of it – a 2-pounder kit contains half a pound of each item or there’s the 4-pounder kit, with a pound of each of the above. You can also sink your teeth into the whole 30-day dry aged beef rib racks you might already know and love, as well as the iconic sticky toffee pudding. All kits come with sauces and house pickles. Mark Friday 10 July in your calendars as you won’t want to miss out. Smokestak’s classic cocktails (Grapefruit Negroni, Burnt Peach Old Fashioned, Bloody Mary and Rum Punch can also be ordered pre-bottled). Delivery across London immediately; nationwide from 31 July. smokestak.co.uk

↓ CUE POINT Fancy a fusion of Mexican, Indian and Afghan food concepts? Enjoy the Afghan barbecue tacos, featuring Afghan-style grilled meats in naan tacos (nacos) and I assure you, your tastebuds will all be highly satisfied. Meal kits consist of the brisket bun with smoked brisket, six brioche buns, Jalapeño jam, BBQ sauce, house pickles and the naco DIY kit which includes smoked brisket, smoked lamb, naan tacos, Afghan green chutney, crispy onions, red onion pickles, jalapeño jam, sour cream, and pickled chillies. Each kit serves six or three people. If meal kits aren’t your thing and you prefer to go à la carte, there’s plenty of mains to take your fancy, with all meats vacuum-packed and just requiring a simmer in boiling water. cue-point.co.uk

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EDITED BY AMIRA

RESTAURANT &BAR

NEWS


CULTURE — food & drink

↓ MAC & WILD Want to mix things up on the barbecue? Why not opt for Mac & Wild’s Venimoo Burger Kits: a DIY burger box, complete with everything to up the ante on your at-home burger-making. Now with nationwide delivery available, these Highland-bred wild venison and beef kits can be easily made thanks to the step-by-step recipe card and video link. Each kit will come with four wild venison patties, four beef patties, baby gem lettuce, gherkins, burger cheese slices, two peeled and finely sliced onions and sesame brioche buns. There will also be sachets including a selection of sauces such as béarnaise, mustard and Mac & Wild’s Red Jon – ready to fully recreate the awardwinning burger on the barbecue at home. macandwild.com

↑ HG WALTER If your cooking has come along quite nicely during lockdown, perhaps it’s time to steer away from the meat aisle in the supermarket and switch to premium cuts of meat from the butchers? It can only amp up your cooking, grilling and barbecue dishes, HG Walter is an independent, familyrun butchers, supplying to some of London’s best restaurants. Were you a fan of the iconic River Café and Kricket before Covid-19? You can get the same cuts from HG Walter online (though they do have a shop in Barons Court too). There’s a variety to choose from, across beef, lamb, pork, poultry, veal and venison but let’s

talk about the boxes… Coined as ‘survival boxes’, these will truly save your meat dishes or barbecue woes – if you had any. As well as fruit, veg and dairy boxes, HG Walter has the meat survival box, the steak box and the BBQ box on offer. The basic BBQ box for four features a bavette steak, four pork chops, four burgers, four chicken thighs, two lamb chump steaks, six country style sausages, a house BBQ rub, a sweet and sticky barbecue sauce and Cornish sea salt. All meat is vacuum packed and suitable for freezing in case the good old British weather doesn’t play ball. hgwalter.com

↓ FLANK LONDON Flank at Home offers a selection of three meat boxes to create your favourite dishes at home. Choose between a basic, supreme and a deluxe, depending on the cuts of meat you’re after and how much you want to have. The Basic meat box includes 400g Hereford 30 day bavette/ flat iron, 500g 30 day aged Longhorn short ribs, 300g 30 day aged Shorthorn burger mince and 500g Yorkshire white pork belly. Or opt for the Supreme to get your hands on 750g 30 day aged Shorthorn rib eye, 600g 30 day aged Hereford bavette/flat iron, 750g 30 day aged Longhorn short ribs, 500g 30 day aged flank burger mince and 750g Yorkshire white pork belly. Depending on whether you’re cooking a family feast or planning to freeze the meat and enjoy quality meals for weeks to come, these meat boxes will definitely add something special. Grill in the oven or on the barbecue; each box comes complete with recipe cards to create Flank’s iconic dishes just like they would. flanklondon.com

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Whether you’re cooking a family feast or planning to freeze the meat and enjoy quality meals for weeks to come, these boxes will definitely add something special


CULTURE — food & drink

← PHILIP WARREN

Now, the meat that was originally for the UK’s Michelin-starred restaurants can be in your fridge, ready to cook, grill and barbecue

If you’re someone who has felt the closure of restaurants and is missing your regular fix of premium meat cuts, On the Pass by Philip Warren Butchers might just be your saving grace. Now, the meat that was originally for the UK’s Michelin-starred restaurants can be in your fridge, ready to cook, grill and barbecue. This is not limited to steaks and burger patties by any means; consumers can enjoy whole free-range ducks originally meant for Paul Ainsworth at No.6 in Padstow or the hogget (two-year-old lamb) destined for Kiln in Soho. Philip Warren Butches is known for its innovative dryageing techniques, as well as use of native livestock breeds, plus it controls humidity levels, air flow and temperature for its meticulous and premium long-raging process. On the Pass not only allows meat-lovers to enjoy these premium cuts at home but it also saves them from going to waste and keeps the farmers in work, while Covid-19 has put a pause on the hospitality industry. Cuts available include 55-day aged sirloin, Guinea Fowl, Free-range duck, Tomahawk rib, Whole beef fillet, Quarter and half hogget. philipwarrenbutchers.co.uk

→ BACARDI X BERBER & Q After the success of their BBQ and cocktail pack during the last week of June, Bacardi and Berber & Q have teamed up once again to provide a couple of barbecue recipes to see your summer through. Enjoy smoked chicken thighs, paired with a Barcardi spiced caramel sauce, with grilled broccoli on the side (vegetables are always better on the grill).

Find the recipes overleaf for: Smoked Chicken Thigh with Saffron and Bacardi Spiced Rum Caramel, Hazelnut Dukkah and Basil Grilled Broccoli with Pickled Red Onion, Rose Harissa and Pistachio Bacardi Spiced & Cola Bacardi Spiced & Ginger Ale

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CULTURE — food & drink

SMOKED CHICKEN THIGH WITH SAFFRON AND BACARDI SPICED RUM CARAMEL, HAZELNUT DUKKAH AND BASIL (SERVES 4) INGREDIENTS: 8 chicken thighs, on the bone HAZELNUT DUKKAH • 60g hazelnuts, toasted • 10 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted • 50g cumin seeds, toasted • 6 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted • 1½ tbsp flaked sea salt (preferably Maldon) • 1 tsp black pepper CHICKEN RUB • 2 tbsp ground sumac • 1 tbsp Aleppo chilli flakes (also known as pul biber or red pepper flakes) or else use 1 tsp dried chilli flakes • 1 tbsp garlic powder • 1 tsp ground turmeric • 2 tsp Maldon flaked sea salt • 1 tsp coarse black pepper • 2 tsp ground coriander • 2 tbsp soft dark brown sugar SAFFRON & BACARDI SPICED RUM CARAMEL • 180ml freshly squeezed orange juice, strained • 200g caster sugar 100ml saffron water (a generous pinch of saffron soaked in 100ml boiling water and left to infuse for 15 minutes) • 80ml Bacardi Spiced Rum GARNISH • picked basil leaves, ripped • generous pinch Aleppo chilli flakes (also known as pul biber or red pepper flakes) or else use 1 tsp dried chilli flakes • 2 tbsp hazelnut dukkah METHOD: For The Hazelnut Dukkah 1. Blend the hazelnuts in a food processor to coarse crumbs. Don’t process the nuts for too long. The idea is to retain some texture to the dukkah with some larger pieces intermingled with smaller ones. 2. Use a mortar and pestle to grind the coriander and cumin seeds. In the absence of a mortar and pestle, a spice grinder can be used, but once again, don’t overgrind the seeds to a fine powder. Retain some texture and crunch by just pulsing them a few times. 3. Season the dukkah with salt and black pepper and store in an airtight container in the larder for several months.

For The Chicken Rub 1. Combine all of the ingredients in a spice grinder or food processor and blitz to a fine rub. Set aside until required. Stored in an airtight container, this rub will keep for up to 1 week.

they are well coloured and the skins have crisped up, then transfer to the cast-iron pan. Cook for a final 1–2 minutes in the reducing BACARDÍ Spiced caramel, spooning the sauce over the thighs as you go.

FOR THE BACARDI SPICED RUM CARAMEL 1. Combine the orange juice, sugar, saffron water & Bacardi Spiced rum in a heavy-based saucepan and cook over medium-high heat until a caramel has formed with the consistency of a loose honey.

TO GARNISH 1. Remove the pan from the grill, throw some ripped basil leaves over the top to wilt in the residual heat, and garnish with Aleppo chilli flakes and the hazelnut dukkah. Serve immediately.

FOR THE CHICKEN THIGHS 1. Toss the thighs in the rub, making sure each thigh is well coated and the spice mix is evenly distributed. 2. Set a barbecue up for smoking using two-zone indirect grilling with an internal temperature of between 130c-150c. Arrange the thighs in a single layer on the grill rack with no burning coals underneath, set up for reverse searing. Add some woodchips to the burning coals (if you have any), put the lid on the barbecue and smoke for 40–45 minutes, or until the internal temperature when measured with a thermometer probe reads ideally between 70–75°C (or above). In the absence of a probe, cut into the meat to the bone and check the juices run clear. 3. Remove the lid from the barbecue and use tongs to transfer the thighs so that they are directly grilling over the hot coals. Start to baste the chicken thighs in the caramel, turning regularly and continuing to baste on each side. 4. Pour approximately the last quarter of the caramel into a heavy-based cast-iron pan and place on the grill next to the thighs, allowing the caramel to bubble and thicken. Nicely char the outside of the thighs to ensure

“ Bacardi and

GRILLED BROCCOLI WITH PICKLED RED ONION, ROSE HARISSA AND PISTACHIO (SERVES 4) PICKLED RED ONION • 200ml red wine vinegar • 3 tbsp caster sugar • 1 tbsp salt • 2 bay leaves • 1 cinnamon stick • 2 tbsp coriander seeds • 1 red onion, very finely sliced

3. Set a barbecue up for direct grilling, ensuring that you are cooking over hot embers. 4. Roll the broccoli in a bowl with some olive oil and season liberally with salt & some black pepper. Grill the broccoli over high heat on both sides until charred and crisped in parts, no more than a couple of minutes. Transfer to a bowl and toss with the lemon juice and rose harissa. Check for seasoning. 5. Transfer the broccoli to a plate and garnish with pickled red onion rings, chopped pistachio & golden sultanas.

CANDIED SULTANAS • 100ml water • 100g caster sugar • 50g sultanas • 2 heads of broccoli • 30ml olive oil • ½ lemon juiced • 1 tbsp rose harissa • A handful of pistachio, toasted and chopped • 2 tbsp candied sultanas

BACARDÍ SPICED & COLA

FOR THE PICKLED RED ONION 1. Heat the vinegar, sugar and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat, until dissolved. Add the bay leaves, cinnamon stick and coriander seeds, and set to one side to cool to room temperature. 2. Transfer the sliced onion and remaining ingredients to a sterilised 500ml Kilner jar or similar vessel. Pour the vinegar over the top and seal the jar. This pickle can be used within a few hours, but, as with all pickles, will benefit from having more time to souse.

50ml BACARDÍ Spiced rum 100ml Ginger Ale

FOR THE CANDIED SULTANAS 1. Dissolve the sugar in the water over medium heat, bring to a simmer and reduce for a few minutes to a syrup consistency.

Berber & Q have teamed up once again to provide a couple of barbecue recipes to see your summer through”

over high heat and bring to a rolling boil. Prepare a bowl filled with iced water and blanch the broccoli trees for no more then 2 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon or lifter to the ice bath as soon as the broccoli is al dente. It’s important not to overcook the broccoli at this stage.

2. Add the sultanas to the syrup, remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. FOR THE BROCCOLI 1. Cut the broccoli through the stem to make 6–8 large ‘trees’ per broccoli. Trim off the woody ends but leave some stalk. 2. Set a pan of salted water

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50ml BACARDÍ Spiced rum 100ml Cola

1. Fill a highball glass with ice 2. Poor the BACARDÍ Spiced Rum and the mixer in the glass. 3. Stir 4. Enjoy!

BACARDÍ SPICED & GINGER ALE

1. Fill a highball glass with ice 2. Poor the BACARDÍ Spiced Rum and the mixer in the glass. 3. Stir 4. Enjoy!


CULTURE — microbreweries

Words:

Aidy Smith

THE BEST MICROBREWERIES IN BRITAIN

© Dan Prince

It’s been a bumper decade for lovers of the grain – microbrewing has skyrocketed in popularity and beer lovers have never had so much choice

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CULTURE — microbreweries

BRITAIN SURE DOES LIKE A BREW, but with so many to choose from it can often be a daunting and cumbersome task seeking out the best. With that in mind I’ve put together a variety of some of the top breweries from across the country to satisfy your desire. From the weird and wacky, to traditional and even non-alcoholic, there’s a little something for everyone.

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CULTURE — microbreweries

BEAVERTOWN BREWERY

NIRVANA BREWERY

With names like Gamma Ray and Neck Oil, you don’t quite know what to expect. Thankfully, Beavertown is one of those rare examples where creative branding and quality of brewing sit hand-in-hand. Many know them as the official craft beer of Tottenham Hotspur FC, but even if that’s not your team, don’t let it put you off. Now in their eighth year of operation and about to launch a second brewery, these guys produce a range of award-winning styles for any occasion, not to mention their microbrewery being inside the stadium itself – the first of its kind!

Nestled in the bustling heart of East London, Nirvana Brewery is on a mission to bring great alcohol-free brews to people who still want a great tasting beer. Inspired by the fact her Dad went tee-total, Nirvana’s Founder, Becky launched in 2017 to give those who don’t drink alcohol something to order other than water. You’ll see familiar styles such as stout, pale ale and IPA alongside some more experimental creations like the world’s first kombucha beer. All with 100-per-cent natural ingredients.

DARK & RICH STOUT (Non-Alcohol, 330ml) £2 from wisebartender.co.uk

NANOBOT SUPER SESSION IPA (2.8%, 330ml) £1.90

It’s all about the dark roasted malts here. Rich in flavour with chocolate, vanilla, caramel and a smoothness taking centre stage. The best bit is, it’s also gluten free. It’s not that often you can get a zero-alcohol beer tasting this good.

You’d expect this to be around the 5% ABV mark, but surprisingly, it’s not. This lower-ABV Session IPA gives super welcoming notes of citrus, tangerine, grapefruit and piña colada.

GAMMA RAY SESSION IPA (4.3%, 330ml) £2.35 The perfect ‘any day, any time’ kind of brew with a light, crispy and punchy kick. Extra-pale base malts are used to elevate the flavour. One for those who like it dry.

NECK OIL AMERICAN PALE ALE (5.4%, 330ml) £2.15 The intention was to create a juicy tropical beer and boy did they succeed. Grapefruit, mango and pineapple all make an appearance. This is a beer for those who want an uplifting flavour profile to get their taste buds dancing.

MCCOLL’S BREWERY Based in Durham, McColl’s set up in 2017 with an eye to create traditional British, Belgian and new wave beers. ‘Sessionable and balanced’ is its ethos, while I’d also argue the creative touch gets liquid on lips. With brews like Lady Marmalade and Beetroot Biere de Garde, my intrigue is certainly piqued. Naturally hazy and vegan friendly, they prefer an unadulterated approach, which seems to be winning over a lot of beer lovers.

LADY MARMALADE BEST BITTER (4.4%, 330ml) £2.60 An insane combination of malts and hops join forces to produce this full-bodied sweet sensation. Caramel dominated the palate with spicy rye, citrus and a longer-lasting hoppy finish.

BEETROOT BIERE DE GARDE (7%, 440ml) £5

Beavertown is one of those rare examples where creative branding and quality of brewing sit hand-in-hand

Yep, as the name suggests this beer absolutely has beetroot in it. The result? A super earthy, crisp bomb of a brew. Brewed with continental malts, noble hops and a ton of beetroot this naturally hazy beer us unfiltered and 100-per-cent vegan. This truly is a ‘beer of the land’.

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TWISTED BUCHABEER (0.5%, 330ml) £2.85 from diversefinefood.co.uk Get ready for some exploration – with Nirvana, the word ‘basic’ was never an option. Introducing one of the world’s first kombucha-style beers. A quirky blend of traditional pale and green tea grace this bottle. It’s the sour beer you never knew existed. Pure green tea, sour plums and cherries with a soothing punch of citrus.


CULTURE — microbreweries

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CULTURE — microbreweries

SALCOMBE BREWERY Starting out of a place of love, founders John and Gerry realised their local brew of Shingle Bay was under threat of disappearing, so they took it upon themselves to acquire the recipe, create a brewery and keep the tradition going. Community is at the heart of what they do, with 5p of every sale going back to help the development of their local area. With just 20 barrels, this really is a micro-brewery, producing a variety of core-range and limited edition brews each year. Great story, great people, great beer.

SHINGLE BAY (4.2%, 500ml) Case of eight £17 Where it all began – this delightful golden ale has a touch of blackberry and spiced fruit, making it a really pleasant and quaffable brew. Pacific gem hops add a great texture and complexity. All round, it ticks many boxes.

LIFESAVER (4.8%, 500ml) Case of eight £18 You know those days where you just crave a beer? This really is a lifesaver. Bronze in colour, this malty ale hits you with a smack of citrus and orange peel before transforming into toffee, liquorice and a soothing floral finish.

This malty ale hits you with a smack of citrus and orange peel before transforming into toffee, liquorice and a soothing floral finish

HARBOUR BREWING CO

SPEY VALLEY BREWERY I first visited this brewery when filming the last series of the TV show and fell in love with it. The magic is that they’re using the same water source as many of the world-famous whiskies from this area. While the company was founded in 2007, they’ve had a slow and steady growth, with it producing some fantastic beers, including some whisky-finished expressions that will blow your mind. Local is everything in this place and their beers represent a true example of Scotland’s incredible beer scene.

From the heart of Cornwall, every ingredient that goes into these beers is local, whether it’s the unique blend of hops or water fresh from the nearby springs. Don’t let the happy-go-lucky millennial surfer vibe put you off – what’s in the glass is really good. From dark, warming stouts to citrus-forward IPAs – the quality speaks for itself.

BIG WEDNESDAY (5.6%, 330ml) Case of 12 £19.50 This stunningly hazy and natural IPA is oozing with ripe mango, grapefruit, nectarine and papaya. A soft start and mouthfeel turn into a bold and robust kick of flavour with each sip.

SUNSHINE ON KEITH (3.5%, 330ml) £2.19 from Brew Republic

BETWEEN LAND & SEA (6%, 330ml) Case of 12 £21.50

At just 3.5% we have another low-ABV wonder, but definitely not in character. This American session IPA is packed with a citrus twist, giving you a zesty and mouth-watering fruit-forward burst of flavour from the first sip. A grapefruit bitterness jumps out making this the perfect remedy for a long summer’s day.

I always love it when people do something a little different – here we have a modern take on the classic oatmeal porter, using 100-per-cent British malt and hops. Chocolate and smoked raisins hit your nose alongside bonfire, toffee, liquorice and lightly smoked tobacco on the finish.

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CULTURE — microbreweries

BEER

FRUIT

MATRIX

K C H I

A

G F J D

L

B DRY

E

0

A— B— C— D— E— F— G—

7

Nanobot Super Session IPA (2.8%, 330ml) - £1.90 from Beavertown Gamma Ray Session IPA (4.3%, 330ml) - £2.35 Beavertown Neck Oil American Pale Ale (5.4%, 330ml) - £2.15 Beavertown Lady Marmalade Best Bitter (4.4%, 330ml) - £2.60 from McColl’s Beetroot Biere de Garde (7%, 440ml) - £5 from McColl’s Dark & Rich Stout (Non-Alcohol, 330ml) - £2 from wisebartender.co.uk Twisted Buchabeer (0.5%, 330ml) - £2.85 from DiverseFineFood.co.uk

H — Shingle Bay (4.2%, 500ml) - £17 (case of 8) from Salcombe Brewery I — Lifesaver (4.8%, 500ml) - £18 (case of 8) from Salcombe Brewery J — Sunshine on Keith (3.5%, 330ml) - £2.19 from Brew Republic K — Big Wednesday (5.6%, 330ml) - £19.50 (case of 12) from Harbour Brewing L — Between Land & Sea (6%, 330ml) - £21.50 (case of 12) from Harbour Brewing

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CULTURE — spirits

Drinks Edit WORDS:

Aidy Smith

We’ve been extraordinarily lucky over the past few weeks with the weather. For me that means two things – firstly, indulgent wines to sip in the sun and as the orange sky begins paint a picture in the sky in the late afternoon. Secondly, some exceptional spirits that nod to incredible craftmanship over time. In this issue, expect pure finesse across the board and don’t be surprised if you fall in love with something new.

PORT ELLEN 40-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

LOUIS XIII COGNAC 700ML, 40% ABV

700ML, 50.9% ABV

Quite possibly the most exciting release of the year. This super collector’s item was produced in celebration of the return of one of the most legendary distilleries the world has ever seen, Port Ellen. Each precious drop within the 1,380 bottles has been taken from nine rogue casks and is one of the oldest and rarest releases in Islay’s history. The nine casks, four American oak hogsheads and five European oak butts were specifically chosen for their flavour profiles and blended to create a Port Ellen unlike anything seen from the distillery before. Herbal grassy notes meet burnt orange, milk smoke and crème caramel. The palate giving you bonfire smoke, leather and wood spice. I was very happy to try this. £6,400 from The Whisky World

KAVALAN CONCERTMASTER PORT CASK FINISH 500ML, 40% ABV

Kavalan has been producing a plethora of award-winning Taiwanese whiskies for years and the Concertmaster edition is an example of just one of the gleaming gems coming out of its distillery in Yilan. This single malt starts off its life by maturing in specially selected American oak casks before being finished across Portuguese ruby, tawny and vintage port wine casks. The result is a distinct smoothness alongside a creamy and uplifting complexity. The nose screams tropical fruits with honey and coconut, while a sip brings forward rich candied fruits and vanilla. £55 from The Whisky Shop

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Since 1874, Louis XIII has been creating arguably one of the purest and finest Cognacs on the market. Up to 1,200 eaux-de-vie, made using grapes grown in the grand cru Grande Champagne region of Cognac are carefully blended over the years to create a true expression of history and time. In fact, no Cellar Master ever sees out the final product – they exist to hand it over to the next generation. Each decanter is hand-crafted, no two the same – making each bottle an intricately designed personal experience. Don’t even get me started on the taste… a burst of floral, spice and fruit aromas with dried roses, honey, cigar box, plum, leather and passion fruit on the palate. This wonder only continues to open up over time, unravelling each decade as minutes go by. £2,600 from Harrods


CULTURE — spirits

MAESTRO DOBEL HUMITO SMOKED BLANCO TEQUILA

WATERFORD DISTILLERY SINGLE ORIGIN SERIES IRISH WHISKEY

750ML, 40% ABV

Having now read this column in a couple of issues, you’ll realise it’s no secret I have a love affair with Tequila. My chosen delight this time has been named the world’s first modernday smoked tequila. Something you don’t hear every day. This uses mesquite wood to replicate flavours from tequilas in the 1600’s, resulting in a delicate and satisfying bouquet of sweet caramel flavours with maple and honey top notes, layered with the essence of fresh-cut mesquite wood. The finish is long on the palette with hints of roasted nuts and vanilla. Utterly stunning and a must-have for those who like to explore the lesser-known side of the spirit world. £44 at Master of Malt

700ML, 50% ABV

The world has patiently waited for over half a decade to taste the nectar of Ireland’s brand-new Waterford Distillery. Two expressions, each based on the precision of place and using winemaking philosophies were produced to showcase the best of Irish terroir. The first release, Bannow Island: Edition 1.1 is distilled from barley grown on the extreme southern coast of Co. Wexford, where salt-laden Atlantic winds and sandy soils create a unique terroir. Expect red roses, milk chocolate and warm vanilla custard with white pepper, salted caramel and sherry. The second simultaneous release, Ballykilcavan: Edition 1.1 is distilled from barley west of the Barrow in Co. Laois in the barley heartlands, where fertile fields are sheltered by ancient woodland. Redcurrants, grapes and freshly cut grass meet cooked bananas, brown sugar and milled wine. Only 8,000 bottles of each exist and will sell out pretty quickly. £70 from Master of Malt

BELVEDERE SINGLE ESTATE – SMOGÓRY FOREST 700ML, 40% ABV

Our next treat takes us to a tiny village in the far west stretches of Poland which Belvedere’s Smogóry Forest estate calls home. Mild winters and long summers result in bakers-grade Diamond Dańkowskie rye – the perfect base product for this award-winning vodka. Purposely left unfiltered to allow the flavour to continue to elevate over time, this is a vodka for those who like true craft. This single-estate gem oozes with salted caramel, cereal and a touch of honey which evolves to reveal toasted bread and a hint of white pepper £49 from Clos19

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CULTURE — wines

CHANGYU MOSER XV BLANC DE NOIR 2016 750ML, 13.5% ABV

Allow me to introduce you to the first Cabernet Sauvignon from China – and my god is it beautiful. Firstly, the vines are around 15 years old – which is pretty unheard of when it comes to rosé. The vines themselves are located in the Ningxia province with Lenz M. Moser continuing to establish his name as a pioneering force of nature for Chinese wines. Estate bottled for that final seal of quality, you can expect grapefruit peel, exotic fruits and an array of crushed raspberries and apple. Zippy and refreshing with texture – and as you know, for me, texture is everything. £19 from Selfridges

CAPENSIS CHARDONNAY 2015 750ML, 13.5% ABV

If you ever come across a wine produced by Jackson Family Wines, take notice. It will be mouth-wateringly good. This is from its first estate in South Africa, a super-high-end Chardonnay which showcases the very best of what SA’s Western Cape can produce. Creamy tropical notes intertwine with custard tart, fresh apricots, nectarines and white truffle. On the palate there’s a lively balance of acidity and creaminess from the gentle oak ageing. A fresh lemon zest evolves, before culminating in an electric zesty zing on the finish. Phwoar. £92 from Hedonism Wines

DOMAINE OTT CLOS MIREILLE BLANC DE BLANCS 2018 750ML, 12% ABV

Domaine Ott is famous for its Provence-style rosé, but a little secret I like to let people in on is that they also produce an outstanding white wine. Located on the shores of the Mediterranean sea and deriving from vines with an average age of 16 years, this Semillon (81%) and Rolle (19%) blend screams flavour. Nectarine and hazelnut sit alongside peach, pear and a zestiness. Flawless texture and character. (Then, use the bottle as a vase.) One of the best whites out there. £23 from Vinatis

ORIN SWIFT MANNEQUIN 2018 750ML, 15% ABV

The perfect combination of oak and true Chardonnay grape. For anyone who says they don’t like Chardonnay, challenge them to try this and have the same opinion. The Californians know how to work with this grape variety and the guy who makes the stuff, Dave Phinney, seems to turn everything he touches into gold. Ripe peaches, apricots and nectarines with glazed pineapple and honey grace the nose from the get-go. This Chardonnay is packed FULL of flavour – toffee, jasmine, green apple and crème brûlée on the finish. Seriously. Just wow. £40 from 8Wines

THE VISIONARY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012

ARRENDELL PINOT NOIR (HARTFORD COURT) 2016

Don’t let the screwcap fool you, this is a truly stunning Cab Sauv produced by Wakefield Estate, a family-owned winery now on its third generation. They source the grapes from some of their best parcels (including the famous A70 from St. Andrews Vineyard), which then undergo 13 months of barrel ageing before being assessed once more to identify the very best parcels. These lucky barrels wait another 12 months before being bottled. Cassis, dark stewed fruits, dark chocolate and classic savoury tannins highlight what top Cab Sauv tastes like. Bravo. £85 from Wine Direct

Only 217 cases of this stunning Pinot Noir are produced each year from the coldest spot of Green Valley in the Russian River AVA. Planted in 1975, this old vine vineyard struggles to ripen, creating super low yields that preserve purity and a unique expression. I fall in love every time I drink a bottle, as soon as the blackcurrant, black cherry and herb-cured violets hit my nose. The palate is even juicer – black cherries, kirsch and a milk chocolate with so much texture across silky tannins and a stunning finish. £406.25 (case of 6) from Christopher Keiller Fine Wine

750ML, 13.8% ABV

750ML, 14.4% ABV

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© Bob Berry Photographer

CULTURE — travel

Every year over four million travellers head to the shores of Britain for our mighty castles, confounding cathedrals, gaping greenery and cosy villages – but as a nation, we can sometimes forget what we have right on our doorsteps. So while we’re temporarily restricted in overseas adventures, here are some of England’s finest coastal retreats for a peaceful bolthole escape

Words:

Lewis Nunn

SECLUSION BY THE SEA THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR THE BRITISH STAYCATIONER IN 2020 118


CULTURE — travel

THE

HIDE AWAY

Nestled between trees and wildflowers, Hide at St Donats is a cosy glamping retreat set along the Glamorgan Heritage Coastline in Llantwit Major – a Welsh town bursting at the seams with medieval history from its maze of long and winding Tudor streets to Iron Age hill forts. Spread across seven acres at the Tresillian Wood; space is plentiful, with hippy cabins dotted sparsely around where you can wrap up in woollen blankets, light a rustic wood burner and peel away the ceiling panel as you gaze up at a sky drowned in stars. hide.wales

THE

L IGH T HOUSE

This grand 19th-century lighthouse stands tall on the edge of England’s South Coast, offering 360-degree panoramic views over the mystifying Seven Sisters and the South Downs that spill into the English Channel. It is perhaps the most famous lighthouse in Britain from its Stone Age occupancy to Roman farming and its ownership by the BBC as the base for The Life and Loves of a She-Devil. Spend your days at Belle Tout gazing through telescopes in the Lantern Room as sailing ships pass by the crumbling cliffs of Beachy Head and set off down the winding river to Cuckmere Haven. belletout.co.uk

Spend your days at Belle Tout gazing through telescopes in the Lantern Room as sailing ships pass by the crumbling cliffs of Beachy Head Belle Tout lighthouse was built in 1832, and its location was planned carefully so that its light could be seen over 20 miles out to sea

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CULTURE — travel

THE

C A ST L E

Shaped like a giant eight-point star, the Star Castle was built by Elizabeth I in 1593, set within four acres of tropical gardens that command stunning views of the Celtic sea from its turrets and ramparts. Perched on St Mary’s, it’s crooked, tilting rooms are completed with Jacobean chairs, four-poster beds and a striking collection of Persian rugs. Dine at the converted officer’s mess and nibble on daily caught lobster with a glass of chilled Chardonnay from Holy Vale vineyard. Or surf down to the Dungeon Bar where you can hunt through maps and charts of the castle and set off on a Calypso boat trip with the hotel’s resident boatman to Hell Bay: notorious for its shipwrecks. star-castle.co.uk

THE

IN N

Dating back almost 200 years, The Victoria Inn is a stunning 19th-century bolthole sat on the windswept Norfolk coast, just a stone’s throw from Holkham beach. Saunter along the sandy dunes as riders gallop past you across the bay and hike through the pine woods on this 3,000-acre estate. Birdwatchers will marvel at the rare butterflies and orchid valleys that surround the Holkham National Nature Reserve, and as the night draws in, cosy up on wing chairs in the snug drawing room with the temptation of tweed-suited waiters waltzing around with a selection of complimentary nightcaps. holkham.co.uk

As the night draws in, cosy up on wing chairs in the snug drawing room

© Jerzy Bin

The Victoria Inn sits in the heart of the Norfolk Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

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CULTURE — travel

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CULTURE — travel

THE

BE AC H HU T

Bearing all the charm of the roaring twenties, this chic hideaway is hidden on Widemouth Bay on the north coast of Cornwall. Converted from a 1920’s tearoom, The Beach Hut sits on top of a small emerald hill at the edge of its own private pebble beach with striking views over the rocky reefs of Millook. Surf the waves and return to the warmth of a log burner, with a prosecco hamper waiting on cue and a gentle breeze swaying over the bed draped in faux-fur throws. millook.com

THE

TOW ER

With spectacular views across the Menai Strait, Bath Tower sits on the town walls of Caernarfon, built by Edward I in the late 13th century to defend Gwynedd’s capital. Follow a spiral staircase that leads the way up to a sandstone tower, past stained-glass windows, and perch on your turret balcony as you gawp at the breathtaking views over the waters while pelicans swoop down. landmarktrust.org.uk

Surf the waves and return to the warmth of a log burner, with a prosecco hamper waiting on cue Left: The Beach Hut sits on the north coast of Cornwall, by Millook Haven Beach Below and right: residents at Bath Tower have the Menai Strait to one side and the Welsh town of Caernarfon to the other

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© Jill Tate

CULTURE — travel

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CULTURE — travel

The Scarlet is a serene child-free space near Newquay, overlooking Mawgan Porth beach

THE

ECO SPA

The ultimate detox dwelling, The Scarlet is an adults-only, eco-conscious retreat, tucked away on the cliff tops of Mawgan Porth. It is renowned for its quirky Ayurvedic spa with tented treatment rooms lit by lanterns, cedar-barrel saunas and cushioned sailcloth pods suspended from the ceiling. Roofs are covered in sea thrift and infinity pools seem to spill out across the wide golden sands – plus two log-fired hot tubs that sit between boulders. Indulge in a seaweed wrap and head back to your Nordic-style room boasting under-floor heating, sateen sheets, freestanding oval baths, rain showers complete with Cornish aromatherapy toiletries and cosy terraces looking out onto Atlantic sunsets. Utter relaxation. scarlethotel.co.uk

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CULTURE — travel

THE

ISL A N D

Hop on a sailing boat from Kallin Harbour and you’ll find Ronay Island – a private retreat in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides. With no neighbours in sight, you’ll befriend the local red deer, otters, porpoises, seals and birdlife from white-tailed eagles to sweeping falcons. Wander 1,400 acres of crags, gullies and pristine lochs for brown trout fishing, then kayak back to your cottage with potted lobsters and fresh mussels plucked straight from the rockface. It’s a proper adventure – get in touch directly so they can vet your pioneering spirit. ronayisland.com

Kayak back to your cottage with potted lobsters and fresh mussels plucked straight from the rockface Ronay Island is available to rent in its entirety, including the four-bedroom house

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

The Heuer Camaro was released in 1968 to capitalise on the success of the Chevrolet car of the same name

Words:

Jake Scatchard

UNSUNG HEROES: HEUER CAMARO As great vintage timepieces become ever harder to find, our resident expert takes a look at one of the finest classics you’ve never heard of… 126


CULTURE — unsung heroes

FOR A FIRST-TIME BUYER, pursuing a vintage watch collection can be an overwhelming task. Often we’re faced with the question, “What is Heuer’s ultimate sleeper watch?” To which the answer is surprisingly simple. The Camaro has long held the crown for Heuer’s best value for money timepiece. Classic and beautiful, yet tremendously overlooked, this late ‘60s treasure is one of 2020’s most significant investment watches. The worlds of Swiss watchmaking and American muscle cars couldn’t typically be further apart. Yet the Heuer Camaro, in both its name and origin, owes a lot to Chevrolet’s iconic automobile of the same name. Streamlined, dynamic and compact, Chevrolet’s Camaro became an icon of American manufacturing, resonating with an audience of young drivers in the mid-1960s. The name ‘Camaro’ thus became an expression of high value and excellence, becoming inextricably linked to racing culture in the USA with the Camaro Super Sport named the official pace car of the Indianapolis 500 from 1967 to 1969. In his attempt to break into the young American market, Jack Heuer adorned his new watch with the ‘Camaro’ title in 1968. Chevrolet’s star would successfully cast new light on Heuer’s latest release through the prompt wave of press that hit the Swiss brand. Sharing similar dials, hands and movements, the Camaro had all the simplicity of its predecessor, the Carrera. However the Camaro’s major difference lies in its cushion-shaped case, boasting a polished grind on its concave sides to offer a grittier modern character. Much as the Camaro automobile was Chevrolet’s response to the wildly popular Ford Mustang, the Heuer Camaro offered a dynamic new spin on its elder sister. However, while the Chevy Camaro’s star would continue to rise, the Camaro wristwatch would be discontinued after only four years in 1972, eclipsed by Heuer’s bold new line of automatic chronographs.

In the shadow of such giants as the Monaco, Carrera and Autavia, the Heuer Camaro’s innovative spirit remains largely overlooked. However as prices for Heuer’s famed trio continue to soar, the Camaro is witnessing a quiet renaissance as the brand’s best value in vintage. Produced in the late ‘60s golden era of legendary sports watches, the early three register Camaro shares its Valjoux 72 movement with the likes of Rolex’s Daytona and the pre-806 Breitling Navitimer. For the serious collector, the Camaro checks all boxes by merit of its specifications alone. Yet for the modern enthusiast, this watch offers a contemporary flare that many vintage pieces do not. Criticisms of the Carrera arise through its modest 36mm diameter – while only 1mm larger, the Camaro’s square shape commands a greater, fleshed out presence on the wrist. Over the past 20 years, TAG Heuer has routinely celebrated its heritage through the release of many successful re-editions from its historic catalogue. Such newfound exposure has fuelled a thriving market for vintage Heuers, having become serious investment pieces. Only time will tell which TAG Heuer re-edition lies around the corner – perhaps the Camaro may be the last of Heuer’s ‘sleepers’ to ignite the market.

The Camaro uses a Valjoux 7 movement and offers incredible value for money to collectors

While the Chevy Camaro’s star would continue to rise, the Camaro wristwatch would be discontinued after only four years in 1972 127


CULTURE — auction

THE BENJAMIN ICHINOSE COLLECTION OF RARE AND FINE WINES 16 – 31 July

AUCTION WATCH THIS MONTH’S BIDS AND PIECES

SILVERSTONE CLASSIC LIVE ONLINE AUCTION 31 July – 1 August

Following the success of its last live auction, Silverstone Auctions is passing a new glut of extraordinary motors back under the virtual hammer. The full catalogue hasn’t been decided quite yet, but there’s already an impressive array of cars on offer – including a right-hand drive version of the phenomenal 1972 Lamborghini Miura ‘Spinto Veloce’, of which only 147 were ever built. For more modern supercar fare there’s also the 2010 Aston Martin DBS ‘Carbon Edition’, as sleek and menacing as the British marque gets. There are even a couple of classic racers, in the form of a 1959 Lotus Seven and For more modern supercar fare there’s a 1954 RA4 Vanguard. also the 2010 Aston Martin In short, whatever kind of classic car you’re DBS ‘Carbon Edition’, as after, you’ll find something to risk bankruptcy sleek and menacing as over at Silverstone Auction’s two-day sale. the British marque gets silverstoneauctions.com

SOTHEBY’S IMPORTANT WATCHES 11 July

With some of the biggest names in horology (as well as some of their most sought-after references) Sotheby’s isn’t overstating the importance of the watches on offer at its Hong Kong sale. There’s a Daytona of course, but this Reference

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Anyone fortunate enough to have explored the cellar of world-renowned oenological connoisseur Benjamin Ichinose has become a changed person. It’s pretty much perfect in every way – and now, the whole lot is going under the hammer courtesy of Christie’s New York. The sale consists of 626 lots and as well as the French highlights includes rare port and Madeira and the greatest assemblage of mature Californian wines ever to appear at auction. Provenance is impeccable, with many wines purchased directly from auctions, the producers or through respected importers. In short, if you have a hole in your wine collection – or want to get your hands on a few truly breath-taking wines – then you’ll want to pay close attention to this unprecedented single-owner sale. christies.com

6263 was built upon special request for Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, vice president of the UAE. If that’s not quite to your taste, there’s a far more out-there version of the consummate racing watch, a platinum cased number with a lapis lazuli dial that’s quite possibly unique – and quite possibly for good reason. It’s estimated at HK$4,000,000-8,000,000.

On the more classical side we have the likes of Patek Philippe with the reference 5078 platinum minute repeater, a Jaquet Droz chiming watch showing off its signature automatons and Philippe Dufour’s absolutely beautiful ‘Simplicity’. These are serious collectors’ pieces, so expect a bidding war. sothebys.com


BACK — in focus

IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Chotovelli & Figli, Aventi and Briston Watches

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CHOTOVELLI & FIGLI Pilot’s watches haven’t changed all that much over the last 80 years. Once you have all the necessities for cockpit timekeeping in place, there’s not all that many places you can go. They all have the same core characteristics – oversized crowns, blasted steel cases, huge, high-contrast numerals easy to read at a glance – leaving very little aesthetic wiggle-room. What you can do however is make them incredibly affordable, which is precisely what Chotovelli & Figli has done. Back in 2018 the Belgian watch brand launched its first pilot’s watch, the 1919, a watch that took a healthy dose of inspiration from vintage military pilot’s watches. It did indeed have an oversized crown, legible dial and all the necessities required for aviation; it was also priced at under £200. Since then, Chotovelli & Figli has continued to showcase an impressive amount of variations on the theme, riffing off the military roots of aviation watches for a lovely range of heritage pilots piece. Now, they’re doing it again with the Navigator 1949 – and with it, going even further in their mission to make stylish timepieces affordable. Taking its design from the classic Beobachtungsuhren (or more colloquially, B-Uhr) watches of the late 1940s, the Navigator 1949 exemplifies the hallmarks of one of the most influential designs in horological history. Between the classic, highcontrast dial of white on black and the pocketwatch-like case, all finished with a pair of bright blued-steel hands, it wears its vintage inspirations on its sleeve. Size-wise it’s a solid 43mm across, great for legibility but more modern than many of the small vintage-styled pieces around. Thanks to the short lugs it does wear smaller than that, making the Navigator 1949 an incredibly versatile piece. In short, it’s a seriously good-looking watch. But that’s not all of it, of course. Chotovelli & Figli’s raison d’être is to make watches like this affordable and the Navigator 1949 is not expensive at all. When it finally goes to retail, the classic pilot will cost you $190 – just over £150. But like many of the brand’s projects before it, the watch has first gone to Kickstarter, where you can pick it up for almost half that. So far, so too good to be true, right? Well there is a slight catch, at least, if you’re a horological purist. The Navigator 1949 is a battery-powered quartz

timepiece. Not just any quartz though; the movement inside is a Seiko VH31, one of the most advanced quartz numbers available. More importantly, it has the twin benefits of making the watch about as accurate as a watch can get and making it incredibly affordable. If you’re looking for an accessible, good-looking pilot with all the quirks of a proper 1940s B-Uhr watch – and aren’t a watch snob desperate to keep things mechanical – then the Navigator 1949 is the watch for you. Head over to Kickstarter now and get pledging; there’s only a few days left to go. Otherwise, you can explore Chotovelli & Figli’s impressive selection of like-minded pilot’s pieces on its website. chotovelli.com Chotovelli & Figli’s Navigator 1949 is remarkably affordable, at just over £75 (half its asking price) if purchased on Kickstarter

Size-wise it’s a solid 43mm across, great for legibility but more modern than many vintage-styled pieces 133


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AVENTI Ah the tourbillon, gravity-defying, mechanicallymesmerising grand dame of haute horology. Sure, its actual usefulness has been debated by scholars and budding watchmakers for centuries to apparently very little conclusion, but there’s one thing that’s not up for debate: a tourbillon is expensive. Just adding that one word to the end of a watch’s name also tends to add a couple of 0s to the price tag (assuming the watch started in the thousands to begin with, of course). We’ve come to accept that, if you want your balance to rotate independently from the rest of the watch in a vain attempt to offset gravity, you need to pay through the nose for it. Aventi, on the other hand, has not. Challenging the assumption that ‘tourbillon’ and ‘price hike’ are synonymous, Aventi’s watches aren’t what you might expect from anything labelled as value-for-money. They’re aesthetically more what you’d expect to emerge from the workshops of McLaren or Lamborghini than a well-priced piece of haute horology. That’s because supercars are well and truly part of Aventi’s DNA. Its watches’ big, bold cases with crowns at 12 o’clock are shaped more like engine blocks than traditional timepieces, the colours of their livery more at home on the track than the wrist. Throw in extraordinary proportions and faux-aerodynamic curves and it’s an automotive inspiration Aventi wears on its sleeve. It’s not just the look of the watches that links them to the high-octane either. Both collections, the A-10 and A-11, rely on cutting-edge materials. In the case of the A-10 that’s lightweight titanium given an ultra-hard coating of coloured ceramic to balance comfort and wearability with durability, finished on a rubber strap with carbon-like detailing. The whole thing is outlined with lume so that, in low light, the entire case, not just the dial, glows. The A-11 goes even further. Full sapphire watches are a whole rarefied sub-genre of timepiece, and the A-11, either in clear sapphire or a stunning royal blue, is a shiny new entry into the canon. The sheer size of the thing – 55.5mm by 48.5mm – is impressive, a feat never before achieved in watchmaking. It also looks spectacular on the matching translucent silicone strap. At this point, the tourbillon seems almost a by-product of creating a hypercar-inspired watch. Still, you’re not going to miss it, as both the A-10 and A-11 have fully skeletonised movements, showing off the architecture of the calibre and the various mesmerising moving parts through a series of spidery bridges Roger Dubuis would be proud of.

The supercarinspired A-11 is enormous, measuring 55.5mm by 48.5mm

Throw in extraordinary proportions and fauxaerodynamic curves and it’s an automotive inspiration Aventi wears on its sleeve

The specs of the movement are up to scratch, too: a modified Caliber 3450 hand-wound tourbillon movement, complete with a hefty 72hour power reserve, courtesy of twin mainsprings. It’s a movement that not only looks the part, but has a specs sheet to boast about. So down to brass tacks: price. Any tourbillon under 50K seems comparatively accessible, but where does Aventi’s land? Under 15K would be seriously impressive; under 5 is ridiculous. For the Aventi A-10 however, you’ll need to shell out just $999. For the pure sapphire model – a watchmaking first, remember – it’s just $2,800. Even without a tourbillon, that’s an incredible price tag for a well-built, skeletonised watch using racing materials. Well, some of the more traditional watchmakers will certainly be keeping an eye on Aventi – as should you. aventi.com

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BRISTON WATCHES Brice Jaunet knows a thing or two about watches. Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil and Zenith – his 15-year horological career is nothing if not impressive. But simply being successful apparently wasn’t enough; Brice wanted that success on his own terms. So, in 2012 he brought his decadeand-a-half of expertise to bear on a new project: Briston Watches. It might come as a surprise at first glance that Briston is in fact a French brand; there’s an innate sense of Britishness that comes from its designs that many a home-grown watchmaker should be jealous of, a preppy sensibility that defines their watches. The reason for that is a personal one to Brice, as he himself studied at Oxford University. He was part of that cricket-playing, aristocrat-baiting lifestyle that not only exudes old-world charm, but went on to define the Ivy League style of the East Coast. It’s a kind of sports chic that’s hard to define any other way. While in wardrobes that style appears as polo shirts, chinos and knits, for Briston it means classical, cushion-cased watches with a pleasingly chunky, sporty feel. The Clubmaster shape walks that thin line between elegance and practicality, with a generous dose of vintage, 1950s watchmaking thrown in. Like an anglicised Panerai, no Briston watch really ventures away from that case shape. Instead, it lays the aesthetic groundwork for a series of different dial layouts and complications, the latest and perhaps most apt of which is the Clubmaster Traveler (that’s not a typo, there is indeed one ‘L’) Worldtime. What self-respecting Oxbridge Alumnus doesn’t regularly find themselves trotting across the globe? Again using the same Clubmaster cushion case, measuring in at 42mm, the watch lends itself to the two-crown worldtimer layout with its rotating day-night inner bezel. While a little on the crowded side, there’s a quirkiness to the dial that suits the style perfectly. But that’s not where the quirk stops, at least not in our favourite of the new models. There’s a good chance you wear acetate somewhere or other, though most likely on your face in a nice pair of glasses. On your wrist? Not so much. Yet if you’re the kind of Oliver Peoples-wearing optical classicist that might opt for tortoiseshell, then Briston’s acetate-cased, British racing green-dialled Worldtimer might just be your perfect watch. Of course, a decent watch should always strive to have a decent movement, especially when the founder is intimate with the Swiss watch industry. That’s why the automatic watches in Briston’s

There’s a quirkiness to the dial that suits the style perfectly. But that’s not where the quirk stops

collection opt for Sellita numbers; in this particular case, the SW330-1, arguably the best value-formoney Swiss movements around. Indeed, despite catering to the esteemed halls of learning that many a world leader or ambassador has strolled through, Briston watches are eminently affordable. The funky fusion of classical and modern that is the Clubmaster Traveler Worldtime comes in at just €1,300 or, in proper money, just over £1,150. That’s a good deal less than a year’s tuition at Oxford, Cambridge or, let’s be honest, any British university. Preppy style without the prices; what’s not to love? View the full collection at briston-watches.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

MICROBRAND

CORNER From avant-garde accessibility to niche haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrands

THE SPECS

• 38mm titanium case with 200m water resistance • SII VK64 Mecaquartz Chronograph movement • $299, boldrsupply.co

Boldr

Venture Field Medic If there’s one person you want to ensure has the right equipment, it’s a medic, from bandages and defibrillators all the way down to the watch on their wrist.

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Fortunately, Boldr has that last covered with the latest edition of its Venture field watch, the Medic. The lightweight titanium beater isn’t just a handsome timepiece – especially in the white and black panda variation – but thanks to the pulsometer around the edge of the dial is a genuinely useful

piece of equipment. That dial is also fully coated with lume, meaning that it’ll never let the first responder in question down. To aid the frontlines further, a portion of the proceeds from each watch will go to Covid 19 relief funds, making the Field Medic a good watch for a great cause. boldrsupply.co


THE SPECS

Bespoke Watch Projects Intaglio Edition

In its latest release, California-based Bespoke Watch Project lives up to its name with in-house engraved, patinaed and painted dials. The Intaglio Edition combines these beautiful watch faces –

THE SPECS

• 40mm 950 platinum case with 150m water resistance • Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Calibre 5401 with 48-hour power reserve • bchh.ch

available in brass, sterling silver, copper and gold alloy in a huge variety of colours – with small, elegant 36mm and 37mm cases for a truly vintage feel. Finished on either an equally vintage-styled leather strap or a unique, handmade number of contoured and padded leather, each Intaglio Edition is made to order before being rigorously tested and finished in Oakland by watchmaker John Beck McConnico. If you’re looking for a future heirloom, this may well be it. bespokewatchprojects.com

• 36mm or 37mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Available with ETA 2824-2 (with perlage finish), Swiss Valanvron 24, or STP1-11 automatic movement • From $680, bespokewatchprojects.com

Each Intaglio Edition is made to order before being rigorously tested and finished in Oakland

BCHH Sovereign

Inspired by the combination of traditional luxury and contemporary style that has come to define modern Singapore, devoted watch collector Benjamin Chee has created what aims to be the city-state’s new horological flagship in the BCHH Sovereign. With components built by the workshops of the famed Kari Voutilainen and assembled by master watchmaker John McGonigle, the Sovereign’s unique combination of distinctly cutting-edge, faceted case and precious dials make for a striking fusion of past and present. Singapore has some of the most demanding collectors in the world; few of them will pass up the opportunity to add this masterpiece to their prized pieces. bchh.ch

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THE SPECS

• 45mm titanium case with 18kt rose gold platform and 100m water resistance • Zenith automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve • haldawatches.com

HALDA Race Pilot Gold

Watches are always a balancing act between the prestigious allure of fine mechanics and the fact that electronic timekeepers are, functionally, better. Rather than

compromise, Swedish watch brand HALDA opts to embrace both with its modular, quick-change system – which in the latest instance is the Race Pilot Gold. A platform made from 18kt gold paired with an intensely technical carbon-fibre dial, it’s an incredible bit of industrial luxury design

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equipped with a solid Zenith movement. It’s not too weighty either, as the case housing the mechanical watch itself is made from DLC-coated titanium. It’s cool, sporty and at any time can be switched with the digital module, for when every millisecond counts. haldawatches.com


BACK — microbrand corner

Hyalus Altum

Designing a specialist timepiece for a very specific reason is all well and good, but it doesn’t exactly make for a versatile watch. Hylas Watches’ Altum on the other hand, is designed in the opposite way, as the ultimate jack of all trades to take you from the surf to a suit to the slopes. That’s not to say it’s not a solid tool watch; with 200m depth resistance, surgicalgrade stainless steel and plenty of lume, the Altum (Latin for “Deep”) lives up to its name. It just so happens to be a rather handsome watch with a svelte 40mm case, too. Equipped with a Seiko NH35 automatic movement, complete with a solid 41-hour power reserve, and a pared-back, minimal dial, the Altum is a watch for all occasions. On this occasion though you might want to be quick; while the retail price offers impressive value for money, the Kickstarter early bird price of $230, launching 11th August, makes this watch as affordable as it is versatile. hyaluswatches.com

Meia Lua Moonlight Mars

Where most pilot’s watches take a pared-back, military approach to style, those of Portuguese watch brand Meia Lua take a more celestial approach to design. The beautiful, lustrous dials of the Inception are inspired by the night sky, be that the green glow of the Aurora or otherworldly shimmer

THE SPECS

• 42mm bronze gold stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Miyota automatic movement • 369 EUR, meialuawatches.com

of moonrise. Their latest takes a similar approach, to breathtaking results. The Moonlight Mars combines the bronze gold case of the Boreal Moonrise with a lovely dial whose iridescent redness matches its namesake perfectly. It’s a watch that balances night-time elegance with the practicality of a pilot’s watch, all wrapped in a uniquely appealing, evocative design and a seriously good price. meialuawatches.com

It’s a watch that balances night-time elegance with the practicality of a pilot’s watch

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THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • Seiko NH35 automatic movement with 41-hour power reserve • $350, www.hyaluswatches.com


END — moviewatch

BE KIND, REWIND

A special edition Hamilton timepiece has been commissioned for Nolan’s Tenet, based on the BeLOWZERO

M OVIE WATC H

TENET Any new Christopher Nolan film is worth getting excited about; from the mind-warping back-tracking of Memento to the inimitably epic Dark Knight trilogy, the director’s barely put a step wrong in his whole career, all but defining his own genre along the way.

In typical Nolan fashion, new film Tenet is being kept fittingly cryptic; while we know that it stars BlacKkKlansman’s John David Washington and a cast of the directors alumni, actual plot details are under lock and key on pain of a lawsuit – though we assume the palindrome of a title has something to do with it. What we do know is that it’s part spy thriller, with Washington’s as-yet-unnamed lead trying to avert World War III from breaking out. The twist? Something called time inversion. We don’t know what that is, but it sounds cool. So long as we can understand it, obviously. Funnily enough, we know more about the film’s commissioned timepiece. Working with Hamilton, whose previous collaboration saw its bespoke watch taking a starring role at the tail end of Interstellar, the new watch is a beast. Based on the titanium-clad Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO, the watch we’ll see on camera took 18 months to design and build with the help of Tenet production designer Nathan Crowley. The 46mm, blacked-out watch will be pretty hard to miss. How it will be used in the film – Nolan’s obsession with time often lends timepieces new layers of meaning – we can only speculate. But you can get your hands on the 888-piece limited edition – which the eagle-eyed will note, is a palindrome in honour of the movie’s title – for £1,890. Film tie-in or no, that’s a lot of watch for the money. hamiltonwatch.com

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Profile for Oracle Time Magazine

Oracle Time - Summer Edition - Issue 64  

Oracle Time - Summer Edition - Issue 64  

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