Issue 90 - March 23' - Oracle Time

COVER CREDITS

WELCOME

Editor’s letter

We’re not even three months into the year and already I’m bone-weary of airport lounges. There’s only so long you can spent watching your flights get ever more delayed without losing part of your sanity along with your time. But it’s a problem I’m happy to embrace because it means that these days we can actually travel. That alone is worth putting up with a few delays.

Of course, with all this international jet-setting you may as well take the opportunity to explore the best the rest of the world has to offer. While the London foodie scene is as vibrant as anywhere else, there are plenty of mouth-watering dishes on offer in brand new establishments further afield too. Wherever you land, there’s always somewhere new and exciting for dinner – which you can read about on page 133 .

The same goes for style. Charlie Thomas is a man that knows his international emporiums to good sartorial taste and as such has opted for a globe-trotting tour of the coolest menswear boutiques around the world. Check out page 84 for vintage clothes in Sweden, painfully Parisian cool and East Coast streetwear aplenty.

Your travels are as good an excuse as any to get your wardrobe seasonally up-to-date, especially with SS23 finally here. In this issue’s style shoot on page 100 we dive into a few transitional staples and warm weather-appropriate pieces in charming neutral tones – paired with some fantastic (and generally retro) brown-dialled watches. No matter your personal style, there’s a look to fit.

Speaking of personal style, Dominic Bliss got the chance to talk to a real global superstar in the form of Jenson Button, who’s burned rubber in more countries than most of us have ever visited. He also happens to have a serious Rolex or two. Check out the interview with him on page 50.

It’s not just Button bringing a taste of adrenaline to this issue; panda dials have always been shorthand for racing. It may have originated in the Daytona but in recent years plenty of other brands have been taking the high-contrast dial out for a spin – including, incredibly successfully, Vacheron Constantin. With its sport-luxe style and mechanical excellence, the new Overseas Panda is definitely among the highest end pandas out there. You know, that’s not a vintage Paul Newman. Discover more on page 56.

If a Vacheron Constantin’s just not exceptional enough for you then a, you’re incredibly demanding and we’re here for it, and b, you likely love a tourbillon. As a mechanism they’re getting on a bit these days, but that’s not stopped some of the most extreme watchmakers in the world tackling the anti-gravitational complication with ever-more inventiveness. Don’t worry if you’re not well-versed in tourbillons though. On page 65 we break down the various types and on page 70 how haute horology has really let loose on those same ideas. Because you can’t mention international travel and watches in the same breath without touching on travel watches, we also delved into the history of the ultimate jet-setters’ companion, the world time watch. Specifically, the life and times of one Louis Cottier, the watchmaker who defined the complication. Read more on page 141.

For now, stay safe and sane wherever your travels take you – and as ever, enjoy this issue. Even if you do so stuck in an airport lounge…

Sam Kessler, Editor

Photography: Fraser Vincent

Watch: Vacheron Constantin

Overseas Chronograph Panda

CONTRIBUTORS

WATCHES

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EDITOR Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk

ART DIRECTOR Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk

Shane C. Kurup

Shane is a men’s style editor who has worked for a range of leading titles, including The MR PORTER Journal, Men’s Health UK, Esquire US, PORT, The Telegraph and Wallpaper*. He’s rather partial to a jazzy silk shirt, wide-leg trousers and a gin and Dubonnet (or three).

Charlie Thomas

Charlie Thomas is a UK-based writer and photographer. An eternal pessimist, he has an equal love of both fine food and KFC. His work has appeared in The Independent, The Times, NME, the London Evening Standard, Tatler and Esquire.

Aidy Smith

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers . He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

Dominic Bliss is a London-based journalist, specialising in long-form feature writing for the likes of National Geographic, Men’s Health and GQ. His late grandfather once owned a beautiful antique Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, an heirloom which sadly ended up on the wrist of another member of the family.

Michael Sonsino

A relative newcomer to luxury watches, Michael is OT’s Junior Content Producer. He’s still trying to tell his balance spring from his tourbillon and as such is a fan of timepieces with a simple design, and who can blame him? But if his obsession with miniatures is anything to go by, he has an impressive eye.

SUB EDITOR Dan Mobbs danmobbs@hotmail.com

JUNIOR COPYWRITER Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk

SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER Fraser Vincent fraser@opulentmedia.co.uk

JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Kelly Coombes kelly.coombes@opulentmedia.co.uk

PUBLISHER / CO-FOUNDER Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk

MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk

ADVERTISING

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 8571 4615

JUNIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Freddie Bridge freddie.bridge@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Phil Peachey phil.peachey@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 3985 1414

by Stephens & George

18 — AFICIONADO

Discover all the latest on our radar and what should be in your basket this month

24 — NEWS

What’s happening in the world of fine watchmaking and the luxury industry at large

45 — THE ORACLE SPEAKS

Is Singapore the most important city for watch collecting in the world?

50 — THE INTERVIEW

International superstar of speed, Jenson Button

CONTENTS1

Classical watch manufactures of Vacheron’s pedigree rarely opt for such a sporty look and as a controlled evolution of its sportiest timepiece, heading in this direction makes sense

Racing Colours p56

56 — RACING COLOURS

Vacheron Constantin’s seminal Overseas shows off its sporty side in high-contrast style

CONTENTS2

65 — IN A SPIN

A breakdown of the complication with some of the finest tourbillons on the planet

84 — BOUTIQUE INDEPENDENCE

Find yourself in a new city? Head to the coolest menswear stores in town

93 — FOR THE WEEKEND

The best bags for an impromptu getaway

100 — SPRING HAS SPRUNG

The latest warm-weather looks paired with brown watches

111 — MEN OF INFLUENCE

Ever wondered what Hublot’s Ricardo Guadalupe keeps in his fridge?

117 — WATCH REVIEWS

Hands-on with accessible everyday elegance and superlative Japanese craftsmanship

124 — SPIRITS AROUND THE WORLD

Give your liquor cabinet that well-travelled taste with these international sips

128 — GOLF IN THE GULF

Some of the best golf courses in the world combined with unsurpassed luxury in Dubai

133 — GLOBAL TASTES

The latest restaurant openings around the world

141 — UNSUNG VINTAGE

The man who came to define the world time complication

145 – MICROBRAND CORNER

From NOS movements to accessible cool

148 – IN FOCUS

Three brands, three different ideas on how to build a watch

156 – ORACLE RECOMMENDS

What’s on our shopping list

160 – MOVIE WATCH

Which Oscars-nominated leading man wears it best?

Head to a well-designed shop and you might push the boundaries a bit more Boutique Independence p84

edited by: SAM KESSLER

aficionado

The coolest things in the world right now

THE SPECS:

• Targeted HP: 500+

• Payload Capacity: 1,800lbs

• Range: 200+ Mi

• Power Train: All-wheel drive or rear-wheel drive

• Preorder now at canoo.com

POWER AND PERFORMANCE

Falling aesthetically somewhere between the futuristic Lexus from iRobot and a classic American pick-up truck, the latest version of Canoo’s all-electric concept is an all-terrain beast. It’s also overengineered to a glorious degree, with fold-down tables, a pull-out bed, hidden steps and a carrying capacity of 1,800lbs (over 815kg for sane people), while being more sprightly than it has any right to be. As long as you don’t like blasting country music out of your beaten-up old F-150, this might just be the new standard of electric cars built for serious work. canoo.com

PERFECT SENSE

Ski season this year wasn’t great and last year was a write-off. Here’s hoping that 2023 will offer some better piste times –and how could it not, with Six Senses’ latest resort opening its doors on the slopes of Crans-Montana? Said slopes boast nearly 90 miles of ski runs to traverse, as well as 300 days of sunshine per year. Once the sun goes down, retire to your Swiss chalet-style room, relax in the 2,000m spa or get your energy back at one of the resort’s two restaurants (Japanese or Alpine, whichever takes your fancy). This is Swiss skiing at its finest – or at least will be when Six Senses Crans-Montana opens this winter. Book now at sixsenses.com

ELECTRIC DREAMS

We’ve all been there. You’re anchored on the Cote d’Azur, just off Nice and suddenly realise you have a reservation at Le Louis XV in Monaco, but no tender to get you there on time. Typical. Well, the Falcon E8 is here to solve that very relatable issue. Combining the sleek, elegant style of a teak-decked Riva with a Tesla’s worth of electric tech, it can reach a top speed of 30 knots, cruising at 20. That’s enough to cut that panicked Nice-to-Monaco rush to 25 minutes. The only thing faster? How quickly it charges: 20% to 80% in under an hour.

Check out the new electric tender at falcon-tenders.com

STREET SCENTS

Not content with working across fashion, art, sculpture and industrial design, Samuel Ross has turned his prodigious talents to the refined world of fragrance with his new collaboration with Acqua di Parma. Available in three eye-catching colours, the liquid inside Ross’s colourful new bottle is the same unchanged classic as formulated in 1916 as the maison’s debut fragrance, but in a new, contemporary package. If you can’t decide which to choose, there will also be a numbered collectors’ edition of 300 bottles that span all three. Either way, it’s an Italian classic by way of a designer inextricably linked with London presented, incidentally, at Design Miami for a truly international approach.

Special edition: £186, acquadiparma.com

Standard editions: £140, selfridges.com

RAINBOW SHADES

Forget your classic, boring shades and instead bring in the spring with something altogether more colourful. The ‘Rainbow Playground’ update to Louis Vuitton’s evergreen LV 4MOTION glasses transforms the lightweight rubber and nylon frames with pops of orange, purple and blue for a sporty look without the seriousness. Not that there aren’t plenty of technical details: adaptable pantoscopic, anti-fog lenses (good in all situations) with adjustable temple tips and telescopic for comfort. Oh, and the LV monogram, of course. Whatever else the collection may be, it’s definitely still Louis Vuitton. Available now at louisvuitton.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

MILLE MIGLIA 2023

The Mille Miglia (AKA 1000 Miglia) is one of the most famous classic rallies in the world, held during the early 20th century from 1927 to 1957. The race has been revived for the modern age as a classic car rally and the dates for the legendary event have been announced. A series of warm-up events begin in March with the Sorrento event on 30 March - 2 April and the 1000 Miglia Warm Up from 5 - 7 May. The Mille Miglia race itself, taking in Brescia, Cervia-Milano Marittima, Rome, Parma and Milan is set for 13 - 17 June.

Find out more at 1000miglia.it

DE BETHUNE INVESTS IN REUGE

De Bethune has become the majority investor in fellow artisanal Swiss brand Reuge, which is best known for creating elaborate and stunning musical mechanisms. Think music boxes but on steroids. Together, the brands aim to share information and techniques to better enhance the creations of both and preserve traditional Swiss craftsmanship. If De Bethune ever plans to create a Minute Repeater, it’s just invested in some of the finest music machine engineers in the world.

More information at debethune.ch

NORQAIN X NHLPA

Last year Norqain introduced its seminal sports watch the Wild One and now it’s launched a limited-edition version in honour of its partnership with the National Hockey League Player’s Association (NHLPA). The new watch features a rubber shock absorption system created from recycled hockey pucks and the dial features a really cool scratched ice pattern that looks like a hockey rink. The NHLPA logo is also in pride of place at 6 o’clock. Limited to 300 pieces, learn more at norqain.com

De Bethune has become the majority investor in fellow artisanal swiss brand Reuge. Together, the brands aim to share information and techniques to enhance their creations and preserve traditional Swiss craftsmanship

Norqain X NHLPA’s limited-edition watch features a rubber shock absorption system created from recycled hockey pucks and a dial with a cool scratched ice pattern

HUBLOT X MURAKAMI NFT SERIES

Haruki Murakami and Hublot have been regularly collaborating for a good few years at this point, with the artist’s signature smiling flower gracing more than a few Big Bangs. Now though, they’re coming together to launch a new NFT collection featuring colourful versions of the physical watches. Each image of the watch has a unique colour and is presented in a pixel art style. Alongside the NFTs, Hublot is launching 13 actual watches featuring the flower in similar rainbow colours.

Discover more at hublot.com

CERTINA OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPERS FOR FIS CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING

With its versatile range of watches, Certina is the perfect watch brand to partner with the FIS Cross-Country Skiing World Cup. The Swiss watchmaker will be performing the role of Official Timekeeper for the top-flight cross-country championships, which sees elite athletes from across the world compete in intense races.

Learn more at certina.co.uk

With its versatile range of watches, Certina is the perfect watch brand to partner with the FIS Cross-Country Skiing World Cup

ROLEX’S LATEST PERPETUAL PLANET INITIATIVE

Rolex’s Perpetual Planet Initiative would have been a great topic of discussion for last month’s Sustainability edition of Oracle Time. Through the initiative, Rolex supports important ecological work across the globe and its latest endeavour has just begun. The project is called the Great Spine of Africa series, a group of expeditions led by explorer Steve Boyes that aim to map important river systems that feed the Zambezi River. The first expedition in the series explored the Angolan highlands, a potential source for the Zambezi, and there are many more expeditions to come. Learn more at rolex.com

Rolex’s Perpetual Planet Initiative supports important ecological work across the globe

OMEGA SPIRATE CALIBRE

Whenever the minds behind the master chronometer co-axial movement say they’ve got a new innovation that could revolutionise movements, the watch world pays attention. Introduced in the new Speedmaster Super Racing, Omega’s latest technical development is the Spirate system, a specially designed balance spring that allows for minuscule adjustments to the balance rate. This allows for insane levels of accuracy up to 0/+2 seconds per day for a total deviation of just one minute per month.

£10,700, available from omegawatches.com

F. P. JOURNE ART GALLERY AWARD

While F. P. Journe is a giant of the watch world, it’s also keenly interested in the art world, encouraging new artists and celebrating well-known names. As part of this, F. P. Journe awards the Prix Solo artgenève – F.P. Journe award to a gallery taking part in the artgenève exhibition, a global exhibition featuring 90 galleries. This year, which is the tenth year F. P. Journe has given out the award, it was given to the Mezzanin Gallery for the Solo Show of Isabella Ducrot. Discover at fpjourne.com

Omega’s latest technical development is the Spirate system, a specially designed balance spring that allows for minuscule adjustments to the balance rate

14th

ARTCURIAL POCKET WATCHES ONLINE

While we tend to focus on wristwatches, the wristwatch world would never be where it is today without its older, larger cousin the pocket watch. Artcurial, the leading French auction house, is hosting a pocket watch auction through the middle of March.

UPCOMING WATCH AUCTION

8th March

ANTIQUORUM HONG KONG ONLINE

Antiquorum has a special place in the history of luxury wristwatch auctions, being the first to embrace the concept of online auctions in the 1990s. The house continues to offer online auctions to this day, including the Hong Kong edition.

8th – 20th March

SOTHEBY’S FINE WATCHES PARIS

The calibre of watches available at the Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction in Paris is incredibly high and it’s sure to be a collector’s dream. One of the highlights is a c.1971 Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona Ref.6263 with panda dial in good but not quite original condition, with a handful of restorations across the bezel, pushers and hands. It’s estimated at €300,000€500,000.

16th March

FELLOWS LUXURY WATCH SALE

Fellows is one of the most venerable auction houses in the UK, founded in 1876 in Birmingham. The house has already kicked off 2023 with some storming auctions and its upcoming monthly Luxury watch sales look set to continue that trend.

– 21st March

23rd March

CHISWICK AUCTIONS WATCHES

Unlike the megastar auctions featuring watches that sell for millions, Chiswick Auctions tends to feature a catalogue of watches that collectors of all stripes will be interested in. That being said, the flagship lot of its upcoming auction is a lovely Rolex Submariner from the 1950s with beautifully aged lume for an authentic vintage appearance, est. £15,000£20,000.

6th

FELLOWS WATCHES AND WATCH ACCESSORIES

Starting off April, it’s Fellows again. However, rather than the house’s usual Luxury Watch Sale this auction has the theme of Watches and Watch Accessories. Expect brands like Tag Heuer, Breitling and Longines rather than your typical auction staples of Rolex and AP. Plus any number of timekeeping-related curios.

24th April - 4th May

CHRISTIE’S WATCHES ONLINE THE DUBAI EDIT

Having achieved record levels of sales last year, Christie’s has been taking it nice and slow at the start of 2023, but as we enter the Spring/Summer season, things are heating up. Kicking things off is the Watch Online Dubai Edit, an online auction organised by Christie’s Middle East.

18th – 25th April

ARTCURIAL WATCHES ONLINE

Following on from its Pocket Watch auction, Artcurial is holding a Watches auction online through the latter part of April. So far in 2023, one of the house’s highest selling watches was an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium from 2003, which sold for €367,360. No doubt hopes are high for similar success come April.

29th March

LYON & TURNBULL SELECT WATCHES

Lyon & Turnbull is a Scottish luxury auction house that specialises in single-owner collections, although its calendar is also full of other specialist auctions such as a Select Watches auction at the end of March. Previous watch sales have included interesting finds such as the effortlessly elegant Audemars Piguet Calatrava.

SOTHEBY’S IMPORTANT WATCHES ONLINE

Sotheby’s Important Watches auctions are some of the most exciting and thematic, leaning into the zeitgeist of the moment. For example, last year the house sold 50 museum-quality Royal Oaks to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the RO. This edition of the Important Watches auction will be hosted online.

1st – 15th May

April

6th - 7th May

ANTIQUORUM IMPORTANT MODERN AND VINTAGE TIMEPIECES GENEVA

As the summer begins to roll around, all of the major auction houses head to Geneva, the ancestral home of watchmaking, for some of their largest auctions of the year. Kicking things off is Antiquorum with their Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces.

9th - 23rd May

CHRISTIE’S WATCHES ONLINE THE GENEVA EDIT

Christie’s hits full stride come mid-May and the Geneva Edit of its Watches Online auction is sure to feature consignments of all descriptions from large brands across the world and from vintage to modern.

13th May

CHRISTIE’S RARE WATCHES

Nestled within the span of its ongoing online auction, Christie’s is hosting a specialist Rare Watches auction in May. From limited edition Patek Philippes to obscure vintage Rolexes, this is likely to prove a highlight of the 2023 auction calendar.

14th May

SOTHEBY’S IMPORTANT WATCHES GENEVA

Alongside its fellow auctioneers, Sotheby’s is taking to Geneva for its Important Watches Auction once again. May is going to be a prime time to be a watch collector in Geneva. If you want to know how to have your watch included in a sale like this, full information is available on the auction website.

17th - 18th May

BONHAMS WATCHES AND WRISTWATCHES

Bucking the trend of Geneva auctions, the Bonhams Watches and Wristwatches auction is set to take place right here in London, in Knightsbridge. Which is great for those who can’t make it abroad or want to surreptitiously expand their collections without the spouse knowing.

18th May

FELLOWS THE LUXURY WATCH SALE

Fellows is back with its next monthly watch auction in May, this time on the theme of luxury watches. Big brands, big names, all the watches you love to see at auction and which sell like they’re going out of style. Given how successful auctions have been lately we can say they’re very much not going out of style.

20th May

WATCHES OF KNIGHTSBRIDGE WATCHES

Watches of Knightsbridge started life as a general antiques dealership before becoming a luxury watch specialist. The house prides itself on carefully curated lots with a focus on modern, vintage and military timepieces.

27th- 28th May

ANTIQUORUM IMPORTANT MODERN AND VINTAGE TIMEPIECES HONG KONG

Before we reach summer proper (insane that it already feels so close) Antiquorum is holding another Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces auction, this time in Hong Kong. Of course, while auctions may be happening on the other side of the world, arrangements can be made to bid from almost anywhere so no need to fear missing out.

auction watch

@joey_c00l

Sometimes you just need to take some time out for yourself, brew a cup of coffee and relax with a good read, especially if that read is the UK’s leading watch-centric wonder Oracle Time, of course. That’s the general concept behind this little segment, photographically captured. Unfortunately for Joe Green, daddy day care duties get priority – but that hasn’t stopped him taking the time to snap our latest issue.

But what pairs with one of the defining diving watches of horological history, Blancpain’s superlative Fifty Fathoms? An equally archetypal timepiece, just from colder climes: the Rolex Explorer. The arctic may have less of a beachy

vibe than our last issue’s cover, but paired with an expertly matched coffee cup-and-wood backdrop, the iconic field watch works perfectly. Here’s hoping Joe’s teaching the kids a thing or two about watches, too – you can find out for yourself on Instagram @joey_c00l.

Want to showcase your own eye for a perfectly composed watch shot? Well, get your hands on this issue, get snapping and don’t forget to use #oracletimeout for your chance to nab a page to yourself next month. For now though, Oracle Time, Out.

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OUR INSTAGRAM

TAG HEUER CARRERA

The Carrera is the perfect fit for a dramatic racing watch – it has arguably more of an automotive pedigree than any other name in watches – and it looks like Porsche is just the car maker to kick it into action. Inspired by the colour of sparks on asphalt (even though we’re not sure that should happen), the mix of fiery orange and black is aesthetic shorthand for adrenaline-fuelled performance. You don’t even need the Porsche wording on the tachymeter to know this runs on petrol. Though that and the steering wheel rotor are both very nice touches.

INTRO DUCING

IN DETAIL

• 44mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Calibre HEUER 02 Automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve

• £5,850, tagheuer.com

Chronograph Porsche Orange Racing

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER Super Racing

A fittingly racing take on the Speedmaster, the Super Racing offers a yellowhighlighted honeycomb dial on the outside and Omega’s latest patent-pending innovation on the inside. Dubbed the Spirate system, a method of minutely adjusting the silicon balance spring, it’s led to a movement with serious chronometric performance. How serious? 0/+2 seconds per day. Time will tell whether it’s a mechanism on par with the co-axial escapement, but at least that time will be incredibly accurate.

THE DETAILS:

• 44.25mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• Omega calibre 9920 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve

• £10,700, omegawatches.com

PIAGET

Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Where most sports-luxe watches opt for sporty simplicity over high complications, Piaget’s charmingly retro Polo has upped the horological ante, first with a gorgeous emerald-green dial, second with a perpetual calendar. Somehow more impressive than either though is that the whole assembly is just 8.65mm thick. It’s not as fanatically on-trend as a Tiffany-adjacent light blue but honestly, that’s another win for Piaget as far as we’re concerned. Powered by the micro-rotor equipped calibre 1255P, the new Polo has big wrist presence.

THE DETAILS:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance

• Piaget calibre 1255 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve

• £53,000, piaget.com

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm Turqoise

Audemars Piguet may be comparatively late to the turquoise party but it’s proving just how fashionable that is. Instead of the usual coloured metal dial, though, this incredibly wearable 37mm gold Royal Oak is instead finished with an actual turquoise stone version. It makes for an eye-catching take on the iconic watch shape and, while it’s a year late to be called cool, it’s one we’re expecting to see on hip-hop wrists pretty soon. Here’s hoping the brand opts for something a little more unsung soon – malachite or tiger’s eye maybe?

THE DETAILS:

• 37mm gold case with 50m water resistance

• AP calibre 5900 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve

• £52,800, audemarspiguet.com

BREITLING

Chronomat Six Nations Limited Editions

By the time you’re reading this we’ll be midway through the Six Nations, the ultimate on-pitch battle between England, France, Scotland, Ireland, Italy and somewhere else we can’t remember right now. To celebrate its sponsorship of the competition, Breitling has of course released a set of limited edition watches, one for each country, in a series of cool variations we’d like to see more of outside of rugby. While we’re partial to the bright blue of Italy, we have to do our patriotic duty and laud the white and red English take. You know, unless they do badly.

THE DETAILS:

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Breitling Calibre 01 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve

• £7,400, limited to 150 pieces each, breitling.com

ZENITH

Ultra Colour Box Set

Colour is in vogue right now, meaning dials of all hues are bursting onto the scene – a good chunk of them in this one single collectors’ box from Zenith. A set of eight Defy 21 chronographs ranging from black and dark green to pink and violet. The skeleton dials and matching straps are set into matte titanium cases (you wouldn’t want too much colour now, would you?) and fitted with the latest generation El Primero chronograph movement. To wrap everything up, the set’s presented in one of the most eye-catching boxes we’ve ever seen.

THE DETAILS:

• 44mm titanium case with 100m water resistance

• El Primero Calibre 9004 with 50-hour power reserve

• Price on Request, limited to 8 sets, zenith-watches.com

GRAND SEIKO

Elegance 110th Anniversary ReCreation SBGW295

If you’ve lost track of the various anniversaries Seiko and Grand Seiko have been celebrating over the past few years, you’re not the only one. We’re inundated. But then they have a lot to talk about and as long as the results continue to be this good, we’re into it. A modern reinterpretation of the original Grand Seiko watch, the 38mm Brilliant Hard Titanium case and deep black urushi lacquer dial make for a dress watch where, as is typical for Grand Seiko, it’s the details that sing.

THE DETAILS:

• 38mm Brilliant Hard Titanium case with 30m water resistance

• Grand Seiko Calibre 9S64 automatic manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £12,450, limited to 500 pieces, seikoboutique.co.uk

CARL F. BUCHERER

Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black

Part of the CFB capsule collection reimagining the Swiss watchmaker’s best-known pieces, this new take on the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral gives the usually classic piece a distinctly modern overhaul. We’re talking a full forged carbon case, matching pitch-black dial and a hybrid, carbon-effect strap, all centred around the gold and silver construction of the 12 o’clock tourbillon. It’s a markedly different look than we’ve seen from the collection before and we’re here for it.

THE DETAILS:

• 43.10mm forged carbon case with 30m water resistance

• CFB calibre T3000 automatic movement with 65-hour power reserve

• £46,000, limited to 30 pieces, carl-f-bucherer.com

THE ORACLE SPEAKS

That’s not just me saying it. The Lion City is the sixth largest watch market in the world, despite the city-state having just five-and-a-half million people. And no, that’s not predominantly tourist dollars. In a relatively recent survey from the wealth reporters at Knight Frank, almost 80% of their Singaporean clientele said they’d collect watches. Compare that to art and wine at 60% and jewellery at 50% and that’s a serious amount of horological love.

For many of us, perhaps a little too focused on our home countries, it might seem like Singapore’s ascendency came out of nowhere. But as Suzanne Wong, Editor-in-Chief of WorldTempus, explains of her own formative city:

“Fine timepieces were simply a part of the landscape when I was growing up in Singapore. Watch adverts were everywhere, the evening news was sponsored by brands such as Raymond Weil and Gerald Genta, and the general awareness about watches was pretty high – something I took for granted as a kid.”

WHY SINGAPORE IS THE ULTIMATE CITY FOR WATCH COLLECTORS

We’re relatively privileged in London when it comes to fine timepieces. Not to blow our own trumpet or anything, but the British capital is one of the most sophisticated places in the world when it comes to watches. Provided you know more than Rolex-obsessed bankers anyway. Not only are there plenty of collectors – and the kind of passion project collectors’ clubs we’ve come to know and love – but tastes here run the gamut from the fun and funky to serious haute horology.

In short, we know watches here; we love watches here. And yet there’s a good chance that Singapore is the most watch-obsessed city in the world.

There is one obvious reason that you can clearly see more watches in Singapore that we need to touch upon: crime or, more specifically, the lack thereof. Between ram raids and the constant threat of your grail watch getting snatched off your wrist, it’s often not worth wearing your timepieces out. That would rarely, if ever, happen in Singapore. Pair that with high disposable income and it’s not uncommon to spot some incredible timepieces on a daily basis.

And yet it’s not just having wealth and a willingness to spend it that has fostered a nuanced collectors’ community in Singapore. There are many places that have both and prefer gold, diamonds and ostentation to mechanical exception. Part of the difference here instead may lie in Singapore’s multicultural heritage.

Singapore is a melting pot of influences, reflected perfectly in their spoken languages. Between

The wizardry of the watch world explained

Mandarin, French, English and Malay, collectors can engage with brands and other like-minded aficionados across the entire world. That means an incredible range of tastes and influences funnelled into an already vibrant market. Perhaps more importantly however, those influences are taken in, remixed and synthesized into global trend-setting in the watch world that puts most other countries to shame.

It’s a level of innate expertise that’s reflected by boutiques like international haute horology specialist The Hour Glass or the superbly named Good Time Luxury. These are the kinds of retailers that don’t just sell watches; they build discourse around them, highlighting unusual pieces and famous references in the same breath.

Indeed, browsing through collector groups like the Singaporean branch of Red Bar or Tom Chang’s Singapore Watch Club, it’s evident that a difference

These are the kinds of retailers that don’t just sell watches; they build discourse around them, highlighting unusual pieces and famous references in the same breath

Singapore is a city that’s obsessed with watches, evident not just from the pieces on people’s wrists but also specialist boutiques such as Good Time Luxury [left]

Where else in the world can you walk down the street and casually spot people wearing URWERK, Patek Philippe, Richard Mille and FP Journe within 15 minutes?

in taste isn’t just appreciated but sought after. As the latter puts it, “as with most forms of art, one man’s meat can be another man’s poison. We cherish all educated opinions, and learn through our confabulations. Ultimately, we’re looking to heighten our level of appreciation for watches, sophistication as buyers, and mature together as a community.” And with the robust secondary market continuing to flourish across the board (though with a distinctly vibrant upper end of the horological spectrum) there’s plenty of meat for every palate. Brands too have taken note; last year the Singapore Watch Club collaborated with Cartier for a limited series of 18 pieces across six different models. That’s respect.

The end result is a nuanced, educated and well-stocked watch market, catering to collectors

that know what they want and why they want it. There are plenty of elements of that here in London of course and across the UK at large. But there’s a lot we can learn from Singapore. Sure, it’s a completely different place and one that came about under an entirely different set of circumstances, but their eclectic and educated approach to watches – from both buyers and sellers – is something to aspire to. But as I’m not a local, I’ll leave the final word to Suzanne:

“Singapore is where it is in the watch industry and community because of a confluence of wideranging factors and I don’t reckon it’s possible to isolate one or the other as THE defining factor, but the results are fairly evident. Where else in the world can you walk down the street and casually spot people wearing URWERK, Patek Philippe, Richard Mille and FP Journe within 15 minutes? Where else in the world can you see some random dude wearing a ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona whilst scarfing down a plate of fried noodles at the local food court? Where else in the world do you have such a concentration of people who have personally spoken with (and own a watch by) Philippe Dufour?”

The Hour Glass haute horology boutique

How long before motor sport sees its dirty petrol engines sputtering out forever? Ask the environmentalists and they’ll tell you the days of internal combustion engines are numbered, with all-electric vehicles soon to replace them. Ex-Formula 1 racing driver, Jenson Button, on the other hand, insists petrol-powered racing cars have plenty of miles left in the tank

After finishing his career in Formula 1, where he enjoyed a total of 15 race wins and, in 2009, secured the overall championship, the British driver, now 43, has dipped his toe into electric motor racing. In 2021, he competed in the Extreme E Championship, a race series where drivers negotiate rough off-road courses in electric 4x4 vehicles.

He says, in general, he’s very much a fan of electric cars. He’s just not so sure when it comes to the racetrack. “An electric car has immediate power. It’s smooth, and it’s economical to run but I struggle a bit without experiencing that mechanical feeling,” he told Oracle Time. “When you accelerate in electric cars, you get immediate speed rather than going through the gears, so you lose that connection. In racing, I love how a combustion engine works; how you feel the car through the road. I hope it exists in the future and there are many ways of making them more environmentally friendly.”

Button is convinced the top levels of motor sport – where he enjoyed such a successful career – will continue to burn fuel for many years to come. But he hopes that fuel will soon become much greener. “Pioneering technologies are constantly being tested on racetracks so I do believe that, in a few years, we will understand the best way for us is to move forward – whether it’s biofuels, hydrogen or electric technology. A lot of people in the sport are pushing in that direction and it’s important we have different technologies to work with so that in the end we’ll move forward in the most efficient way.”

It has been six years since Button competed in Formula 1, his finest season in 2009 when he raced for Brawn GP and secured the Drivers’ Championship. Inevitably, he misses the thrill of motor sport’s top echelon and the privilege of “racing extraordinary cars”. He points out how other Formula 1 drivers, such as

Words: Sam Kessler

The Interview: JENSON BUTTON

THE FORMER FORMULA 1 SUPERSTAR TALKS FAST CARS, FAMILY LIFE IN CALIFORNIA, AND THE ELECTRIC REVOLUTION

Jenson Button is a long-time fan of Rolex and treated himself to a steel Daytona when he became an F1 driver. He is now an ambassador for the brand

Jenson Button

An electric car has immediate power. It’s smooth, and it’s economical to run, but I struggle a bit without experiencing that mechanical feeling

Michael Schumacher, Fernando Alonso and Kimi Räikkönen, felt similar regret after they retired from Formula 1, and eventually chose to return.

However, one thing that Button doesn’t miss is the enormous pressure that came with Formula 1 racing. Nowadays he is more likely to find himself behind the wheel of a historic racing car – competing at the Goodwood Revival, for example. He’s also due to drive in a US rallycross race series called Nitro Rallycross. And at the centenary of the famous French endurance race, 24 Hours of Le Mans, in June this year, he will be driving a NASCAR stock car. “There are some very special races on the motor sport calendar that will give you that same buzz as Formula 1,” he says.

Born and brought up in Somerset, Button was a BMX rider before he first got into karting. He lived and went to school in Frome, a small town just south of Bath. As he concentrated on karting, his school work suffered, and he left school with only one GCSE. Initially, his

driving exam was equally unimpressive – the first one that he took, a failure.

By the turn of the millennium, however, he was one of the best drivers in the world, joining the Formula 1 Championship, first with Williams, then a whole raft of teams including Benetton, Renault, Honda, Brawn GP and McLaren. Thanks to his good looks and engaging personality, he was never short of fans, especially female ones.

‘Buttonmania’ was the name given to the group of supporters who would loyally cheer him on at races. “Urbane and eloquent,” is how BBC Sport once described him. “Goodlooking and charismatic, he is a marketing person’s dream, and has a ready wit that can edge into sarcasm if he is impatient or uncomfortable with a situation.” In 2010, Button was awarded an MBE for his services to motor sport. In his home town, a street and footbridge have been named after him.

PRECIOUS TIME

> > Jenson Button is a Rolex ambassador, or testimonee, as the watch manufacturer terms it. His history with the brand goes back a long way. When he first became a Formula 1 driver, to celebrate, he treated himself to a steel Rolex Daytona. Then, on his father’s 70th birthday, he bought him the gift of a rose gold Daytona.

“As a family, we’ve always admired Rolex, so it felt like the perfect gift,” he says. “I’ve since inherited this watch from my father, after he passed away, and wear it on my wrist most days – mainly because it’s stunning but also because it brings back so many special memories. I look at it with immense pride.”

In June, Button will be competing in the 100th anniversary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance race, an event which Rolex has supported as the official timepiece since 2001.

Jenson Button

In 2014, he married Japanese model Jessica Michibata, but it was a short-lived relationship. Eight years later he married again, this time to an American model called Brittny Ward, with whom he has a three-year-old son Hendrix, and a two-year-old daughter Lenny Monrow. The whole family now lives in California, close to Bel Air, in the west of Los Angeles. Their house is currently being renovated.

Button says parenthood is no easy task. “You can no longer think about yourself. Suddenly, you’re the least important person in the house. There are days that are tiring but there’s nothing better than seeing them learning, happy and growing. I thought winning a World Championship was what life was all about but now I realise having children is even more rewarding.”

Being so close in age, Hendrix and Lenny get along well, he says. “Now they are playing together which is just awesome – I could watch them all day. I can’t imagine racing in Formula 1 and being a father, that’s for sure. I have to be at home for them and my wife.”

Button appreciates the climate in Southern California. “It doesn’t really get that cold in California, so you know what to expect on a weekend when you’re planning days with the children,” he explains. “There is so much on my doorstep in the great outdoors which I love.”

Nonetheless, he admits he misses family and friends in the UK. “Nothing beats a good day in London, when the sun is shining and the parks are full,” he says. “The atmosphere is amazing. I also love the culture and architecture in the cities. I’m originally from Somerset, and Bath has beautiful architecture – it’s like a mini London. This is what I miss about the UK, but mostly I miss my family.”

Fortunately, he has some very expensive toys to keep him amused in California. In terms of muscle cars, he has a Lotus Evora and a Lotus-Radford Type 62. For fun, he has an old Land Rover Defender.

A new addition to his fleet will be arriving later this year. It’s an all-electric Lotus Evija sports car, one of a limited production run of only 130. Powered by a 70kWh lithium-ion battery, it has a power output of 1,470kW and, according to Lotus, will accelerate from 0mph to 62mph in under three seconds.

Proof that, even for a petrolhead like Jenson Button, the all-electric revolution is sparking up.

Button now lives in California with his wife and two young children, but still has an appreciation for the buzz and architecture of British cities like London as well as Bath, which he describes as being like a ‘mini London’

Jenson Button

Nothing beats a good day in London, when the sun is shining and the parks are full. The atmosphere is amazing. I also love the culture and the architecture in UK cities

RACING COLOURS

A HIGH-CONTRAST PANDA DIAL BREATHES NEW, SPORTY LIFE INTO VACHERON CONSTANTIN’S OVERSEAS COLLECTION –AND WE’RE HERE FOR IT

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

Of all the variations of chronograph subdials, there’s one that strikes out a length ahead of the competition: the panda dial. By this point I feel like I shouldn’t need to explain exactly what a panda is, but just to cover all bases: simply put, a panda dial is a chronograph layout with a white dial and contrasting black subdials. Sometimes they will include a matching black tachymeter; sometimes not. Sometimes they have three chronograph subdials, sometimes two. In fact, there are about as many subtle variations of the Panda as there are chronographs. All that really matters though is the high-contrast black-subdials-on-white (or in some more elegant versions, silver) look, ideally with the panda’s eyes at 3 and 9 o’clock, with the third in the case of a tri-compax at 6 o’clock.

Most collectors agree on precisely when the modern Panda came about, the exact model that came to define it. It was, of course, the Rolex Daytona 6239. Not only was it a seminal racing watch that, along with the Heuer Carrera, defined the kind of trackside timekeepers that have become pure archetypes in modern watchmaking parlance, but it did so with

an equally iconic look. Granted, its competition had much the same look – in fact, TAG Heuer has recently re-issued the Carrera Panda for the collection’s birthday – but only one watch found its way onto Paul Newman’s wrist.

It’s largely thanks to his patronage in fact that not only made the Daytona a household name, but specifically the high contrast, aptly named ‘Paul Newman’ versions. Thus, Daytonas in the main and Pandas specifically, became inextricably linked with racing, Rolex and the glory days of the track.

There are a few caveats however. Archival information from the time is sometimes hard to come by, so we can never be 100% certain that the first Panda dial was a Rolex. The Crown often just has the loudest voice (and marketing department) in the room. What we do know however is that older watches, such as the Breitling Superocean from 1957 used the same high-contrast look, just with white subdials on black, now dubbed the Reverse Panda.

The point is, the Panda wasn’t always strictly meant for a racing watch, just anything that could make use of the high contrast look.

Over the years, most watchmakers with a sporty outlook have dabbled in pure Panda dials. Other than Rolex and Heuer, Breitling followed a few years later in 1966 with the first black-on-white Top Time models. Zenith also had an early version in their seminal El Primero A384 from 1969, a watch whose movement would become as definitive to the workings of racing chronographs as the Daytona did for the aesthetics.

So, Panda dials have never been particularly rare. In recent years however, there’s been an explosion of them, with many a watchmaker doing a damn sight better than the animals themselves at making sure Pandas are everywhere. These days everyone from microbrands to major watchmakers that want to evoke retro racing give the black-and-white look a go. There are too many even so far this year to list here, and generally they’re a good look. I like them. From the number out there, I assume you like them too. Well done, we have great taste.

The thing is, most of them are missing the wow factor. In most instances, the main feature of the watch is the dial and beyond that it’s just a basic, often Sellita-equipped accessible chronograph. There’s nothing wrong with that at all; I’d argue it’s a healthy place for the watch world to be in when we can get cool designs at relatively low prices. But occasionally you want something with a bit more substance than a face-value nod to vintage racing. And that brings us to the 2023 edition of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph.

The modern successor to the 222 of the 1970s, the Overseas is Vacheron’s modern sports watch collection. You know, a sports watch in the same way that the Nautilus is a sports watch. You can wear it all day

“

The modern successor to the 222 of the 1970s, the Overseas is Vacheron’s modern sports watch collection. You know, a sports watch in the same way the Nautilus is a sports watch”

With its eye-catching high-contrast panda dial, the 2023 edition of Vacheron Constantin’s Ovrseas Chronograph is a sporty and stylish update

Most racing watches are built as timekeeping tools, solid and reliable over ornate, but the Overseas manages combine all three of these things perfectly

The inclusion of a panda dial has transformed the Overseas, with its new look providing plenty of wrist presence. The timepiece also boasts a streamlined case with an industrial edge

every day, but you may not necessarily want to. The case is generally steel (though obviously there are other versions), it’s streamlined and it has a satisfying industrial twang to it. What it isn’t, strictly, is a racing watch.

Honestly, that’s because the term ‘racing watch’ is a little tough to define. There are no ISO standards to define it like there are for a diver. Generally, it means the inclusion of a tachymeter, but all it really means is a sporty chronograph. There’s no denying that the Overseas is that. And so the inclusion of a panda dial makes a lot of sense – and absolutely transforms the look of the watch.

It’s odd just how much the white dial with black subdials stands out, if only because back in 2018

(if you can remember pre-Covid any more) Vacheron released an Overseas with white subdials on black, a reverse Panda. The difference is that dark colours, from black to anthracite to blue, have classically been a core element of the collection. This is the first time they’ve gone the other way, going from serious and elegant to a more obviously retro look.

“Since their creation more than 20 years ago, Overseas chronographs have been synonymous with exploration for the manufacture,” explains Vacheron Constantin’s Style and Heritage Director Christian Selmoni. “These versatile timepieces combine the spirit of haute horology characterising Vacheron Constantin with the refined sporting elegance suggested by the chronograph function. In a way, the Overseas chronographs have always marked, for the manufacture, a desire for controlled yet subtly disruptive breakthroughs, a desire to explore other watchmaking territories and to experiment with new creative fields”.

Personally, I find it a little much to call a panda dial disruptive, but at least Selmoni qualified it with subtle. There’s also at least something to it. Classical watch manufactures of Vacheron’s pedigree rarely opt for such a sporty look and as a controlled evolution of its sportiest timepiece, heading in this direction makes sense. Hopefully it leans hard into the retro angle in the future – perhaps with a touch of the Fifty-Six Sepia in there somewhere? As it is, the new dial gives a lot of wrist presence to a watch that already had the elegant gravitas of a bespoke dinner suit. Just with a racing helmet on top.

What the Overseas has above other racing chronographs however is the finishing. Most racing watches are built as timekeeping tools, solid and reliable over ornate. The Overseas is all three of those things. The Calibre 5200 has a 52-hour power reserve, not too shabby for a chronograph. It’s also decorated to within an inch of its balance spring. Just because it’s housed inside a sporty, 1970s-flavoured case doesn’t mean the automatic movement’s had any less attention lavished on it. It also has a column-wheel clutch to match the 1960s flavour of the dial.

The rest of the watch is the Overseas we know and love, complete with quick-change, Maltese cross bracelet, one of the most satisfying to use out there. Indeed, the new dial isn’t necessarily a ground-breaking piece of disruption for the watchmaker as much as it is a tentative step into new (if only inverted) ground.

That said, the bottom line is this: the panda may just be the coolest Overseas yet. Vacheron doesn’t usually follow trends like this – which is part of its appeal – but this one instance is a time I’m glad it has. Just as full gold versions with perpetual calendars and the like showcase the haute horology end of the Overseas spectrum, this emphasises its sporty side.

And if a hint of what to expect at Watches and Wonders 2023, there’ll be a lot more cool to come.

“Classical watch manufactures of Vacheron’s pedigree rarely opt for such a sporty look and as a controlled evolution of its sportiest timepiece, heading in this direction makes sense”

“By means of this invention, I have succeeded in cancelling through compensation the anomalies caused by the different positions of the centers of gravity of the regulator movements.”

This is part of the original patent of the not-so-humble tourbillon, which was submitted by inimitable master horologist Abraham-Louis Breguet back in 1800, though the general thinking is that he came up with the idea five years prior. The idea was to counteract the nefarious effects of gravity simply by constantly changing the position of the regulator, evening out the unwanted extra force.

It’s also worth pointing out that it was also a method of distributing oil around the movement more effectively, even if that was more of a secondary effect. What’s certain though is that the ‘whirlwind’ as a concept was specifically designed for pocket watches.

It works by placing the balance wheel and escapement in a rotating cage. This then slowly rotates as the watch runs, ironing out positional errors across the most delicate components in the watch. It’s an incredible piece of watchmaking that requires equally incredible skill from the watchmaker putting it together and why Breguet’s original design was such a historical feat of horology. The reason its original pocket watch design matters however is that this is only really effective on one axis.

A pocket watch sits in your pocket, generally in the same upright position throughout the day. A wristwatch on the other hand moves as much as your hands which for most people is a lot. There’s no guarantee that a single plane of rotation will do anything useful at all. It may do, but it’s honestly unlikely.

That’s why in large part there weren’t many tourbillons prior to the late 80s. There were of course a few conceptual showpieces from the likes of Bahne Bonniksen, inventor of the karrusel, and precision-focused American Albert Potter. But they were few and farbetween, definitely not anything you’d call commercial. Indeed, it wasn’t until 1986 that the complication would be

TOUR DE FORCE

FROM NOT-SO-HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO INCREASINGLY COMPLEX MODERN VERSIONS DEVELOPED BY TODAY’S HAUTE HOROLOGY MAISONS, WE TRACK THE EVOLUTION OF THE TOURBILLON

rekindled as a serious piece of commercial watchmaking thanks to the Audemars Piguet calibre 2870, the first automatic tourbillon ever built.

From there, brands like Girard-Perregaux and Patek Philippe started approaching the tourbillon in their own distinctive ways and Franck Muller built his eponymous brand on his own, patented version. It’s a shift that has continued to the point where every haute horology maison has its own version of Breguet’s original invention in as many different ways. So, let’s take a look at some of them.

Words: Sam Kessler

60-SECOND TOURBILLON

This is the baseline tourbillon, the one that we’ll normally see turning at 6 o’clock, by far the most common variation. The reason it’s set to turn once every 60 seconds is so that the case itself can also be used as a second counter, making best use of the otherwise empty space. It’s easily identifiable thanks to the signature cage supported by a bridge, and is the direct successor to the pocket watch versions of old. This includes pieces like Omega’s central tourbillon which, despite being oversized and unusually placed, works in the same way.

FLYING TOURBILLONS

Designed by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig in 1920, the flying tourbillon is an aesthetic tweak on the formula. It serves the exact same function as the

standard version, but the bridge has been removed and the cage is supported from beneath so that it appears to float. These are more difficult to build and therefore rarer, but much more refined in appearance. The lack of support makes it potentially more delicate, but few tourbillons are exactly rugged and the aesthetic trade off is worth it for many collectors.

MULTI-AXIS TOURBILLONS

An attempt to make the tourbillon concept work properly in a wristwatch, a multi-axis tourbillon – either double or triple – is one which rotates in multiple directions. This means it varies the position of the balance and escapement even more than a standard tourbillon and therefore is more likely to have the desired outcome of evening out the effects of gravity.

[Clockwise from left] Audemars Piguet flying tourbillon; close-up insight into just how complex the flying tourbillon really is…; Bexei Primus triple-axis tourbillon; Jaeger-LeCoultre gyrotourbillon; Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon

The flying tourbillon serves the exact same function as the standard version, but the bridge has been removed and the cage is supported from beneath so that it appears to float

The gyrotourbillon is a multiaxis tourbillon where two cages rotate at 90 degrees from each other, ensuring that the mechanism is never horizontal and so never negatively impacted by gravity

The double-axis version was patented by English horologist Anthony Randall in 1977 and first built by countryman Richard Good a year later in a carriage clock. It was actually German ex-Navy officer turned watchmaker Thomas Prescher who downsized it into a watch in 2003, then made it fly a year later. He also went on to create the first triple-axis tourbillon – because by this point, why not? – which was later turned into a wristwatch in 2007 courtesy of Aaron Becsei of Bexei Watches, in the form of the Primus. It’s a memorable watch.

GYROTOURBILLON

Designed by Magali Métrailler and Eric Coudray in 2002 and pioneered by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the gyrotourbillon is, as the name suggests, a multi-axis tourbillon, one where two different cages rotate at 90 degrees from each other, ensuring that the mechanism is never horizontal and so is never negatively impacted by gravity. These are incredibly hard to make and, thanks to the multitude of parts, relatively delicate – even for a tourbillon – but do the job. Though whether the extra accuracy is the main aim or whether it’s just a showpiece is up to the necessarily well-heeled buyer. We’re currently onto the fifth generation of gyrotourbillon and it’s a stunner. More on that further on.

DOUBLE AND QUADRUPLE TOURBILLONS

Circles within circles, wheels within wheels and tourbillons within tourbillons. Generally the province of ex-Renaud et Papi watchmakers Messrs Greubel and Forsey, the double tourbillon was introduced in 2003. Rather than a single tourbillon cage moving in different directions, it means one tourbillon cage is nestled inside another like an haute horology Matryoshka.

In 2005 the pair followed up with the Quadruple Tourbillon à Différentiel, which used two independent double tourbillons, linked together to even everything out. Since then, it’s rare to find a Greubel Forsey timepiece without either complication.

IN A SPIN

TEN WATCHES THAT SHOW JUST WHAT THE NOT-SO-HUMBLE TOURBILLON IS CAPABLE OF

Even though they’re one of the most complex mechanisms this side of sonneries and resonance, the tourbillon in all its myriad forms is enough of a mainstay of haute horology that it’s a relatively crowded field to parse through. But that doesn’t mean all tourbillons are built the same – far from it. From the understated to the extraordinary, the technically inspired to the borderline insane, here are ten tourbillons that stand out from the rarefied crowd. 60-second, flying, multi-axis, multiples and more, gravity never stood a chance.

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

ANTOINE PREZIUSO Tourbillon of Tourbillons

With a name like Tourbillon of Tourbillons you’d expect something jaw-droppingly impressive. And this piece doesn’t disappoint. It’s not a double tourbillon or even two pairs; Antoine Preziuso’s haute horology flagship is a set of three differentially linked tourbillons that themselves revolve on a carousel. It’s unsurprising there are three patents on the watch. The first is the triple tourbillon and revolving plate mechanism, which offers incredible chronometric performance; the second is resonance, as the three balances are close enough for them to acoustically sync up. The final patent is for the synchronizer that makes the whole thing work. The bottom line is that the Tourbillon of Tourbillons lives up to its name and, in the most recent high jewellery unique piece – the TTR3 Trillion – reflects that status in glittering fashion.

THE DETAIL

• 47mm white gold case with 30m water resistance

• Antoine Preziuso AFP-TTR-3X with 48-hour power reserve

• Price on Request, Unique Piece, antoine-preziuso.com

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Cosmos

Where flying tourbillons try everything to get rid of the bridge supporting the tourbillon cage, Girard-Perregaux has made it a signature, especially in the case of the Neo Bridge, a modern reincarnation of the brand’s archival arrow-shaped version. It brings a layer of architectural flair to what is, at its base level, a purely functional part of the movement. If you’re going to have a bridge, you may as well make it awesome. In the Cosmos, this architecture has been ramped up with the inclusion of two globes, one of the Earth, the other of the constellations. The time is relegated to a small dial at 12 o’clock, but the resultant watch is one of grand, sweeping movement in a balanced layout, all set on a backdrop of thematically appropriate spectrolite and aventurine. In a 12-month span full of celestial timepieces, this is near the top.

THE DETAIL

• 47mm titanium case with 30m water resistance

• GP09320-1903 manual-wind movement with 57-hour power reserve

• £289,000, girard-perregaux.com

“

With a name like Tourbillon of Tourbillons you’d expect something impressive. And this piece doesn’t disappoint

THE DETAIL

• 41mm white or pink gold case with 50m water resistance

• AP calibre 2950 automatic movement with 65-hour power reserve

• Price on Demand, audemarspiguet.com

AUDEMARS PIGUET

Royal Oak Dimple

As one of the watchmakers to bring tourbillons back into the modern limelight, Audemars Piguet has more than its fair share of tourbillon varietals. And while we could opt for something big and impactful like the Offshore, or more technically minded like the Code 11:59, one of our recent favourites, for its funky dial as much as its technical majesty, is the new dimple-dialled version. Here the action is split between the flying tourbillon turning mysteriously at 6 o’clock and the dial, which is as fantastic as any of Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired numbers. Indeed, the contrast between the haphazard dial finish and the sharp, functional edges of the tourbillon play off each other perfectly. Most of the time we’re purists when it comes to the Royal Oak – give us steel and Tapisserie every time – but this is absolutely gorgeous.

PARMIGIANI

Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Platinum

Last year Parmigiani confirmed that its new direction – rebranding around the superlative sports-luxe stylings of the Tonda PF – was precisely the right one in which it should be heading. It’s not just a handsome framework to be working in, but a versatile one, able to produce pieces like the superb Rattrapante GMT and this, a streamlined flying tourbillon. The full platinum piece (meaning it has some serious heft to it) is a monochromatic beauty that lets the details do the talking, from the sandblasted dial and rhodium-plated indices to the PF’s signature bezel. The bridgeless flying tourbillon offers as little disruption to the cool, calm look as possible while still being visible. How this doesn’t get more love among tourbillon aficionados we’ll never quite understand.

THE DETAIL

• 42mm platinum case with 100m water resistance

• Calibre PF517 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve

• CHF 140,000 (approx. £125,000), parmigiani.com

GREUBEL FORSEY

It might not house the double or quadruple tourbillons that Greubel Forsey initially made its name with, but given the latest of those (2021’s GMT version) is discontinued, it makes sense to take a lighter look at the complication – and light is what the Architecture is all about. As is Greubel Forsey’s wont, the dial is completely open, with plenty of space between the various, painstakingly finished components and polished titanium bridges. In this case though – and to live up to its name – the entire ensemble is surrounded by a sapphire crystal caseband, flooding it with light. The case is actually convex, so even by the lofty standards of sapphire cases, it’s impressive. The tourbillon itself is unusual in that it’s both inclined 25 degrees, but rotates once every 24 seconds, far faster than most. Combined, these two elements enhance the tourbillon’s functionality and offer insane chronometric performance. It looks incredible, too.

THE DETAIL

• 47.05mm titanium and sapphire case with 50m water resistance

• In-house Greubel Forsey manual-wind movement with 90-hour power reserve

• $500,000 (approx. £405,000), limited to 65 pieces, greubelforsey.com

Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

THE DETAIL

• 43mm Canopus Gold and Sedna gold case with 30m water resistance

• Omega 2640 calibre manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £202,500, omegawatches.com

OMEGA

By default, most single-axis tourbillon cages turn once every 60 seconds, meaning they double as a small seconds hand. Omega has brought the same concept right into the centre of the watch. It might seem like a simple change, but it involves rethinking the entire layout of the movement, moving the balance to a part of the watch it usually has no business being. It proves that rather than being a tacked-on addition to the movement, this particular oversized tourbillon is the focal point. It might also be one of the most hardwearing tourbillons out there – if such a label can be applied to this level of fine mechanics – as it’s anti-magnetic to over 15,000 gauss. Finished in plenty of Omega’s proprietary gold alloys – rosy Sedna gold for the lugs, bezel and caseback, Canopus gold for the casebody and crown – it’s a stunner.

DeVille Tourbillon Co-Axial Master Chronometer

ZENITH

Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon

While most of the big watchmakers leave the more extreme incarnations of the tourbillon to the specialists and independents, what do you do when your subcollection name is literally ‘Extreme’? Other than turn your 1970s-inspired Defy line into a huge, ultra-faceted, multi-layered beast? Add a pair of tourbillons, naturally.

Underneath the combination of octagonal case (available in titanium or carbon fibre) and dodecagonal bezel is a vastly altered take on Zenith’s El Primero chronograph calibre, the 9020, whose dual linked tourbillons are visible around 9 o’clock. Because one 1/100th second chronograph wasn’t enough. Oddly though, there’s actually more dial here than the usual Defy Extreme so in some ways it’s the most reserved of the collection. In some ways. Otherwise, with its rubber strap and tricompax layout, it’s inarguably the sportiest double chronograph on the market.

THE DETAIL

• 45mm titanium or carbon fibre case with 200m water resistance

• Zenith El Primero Calibre 9020 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve

• £58,300 (titanium) and £66,800 (carbon fibre), zenith-watches.com

GRAND SEIKO Kodo

Not only is this the first movement of its type from Grand Seiko, but it’s the first of its type ever, an acoustically inspired constant force tourbillon where its heartbeat is a feature. Even more prestigious, it won our inaugural Community Watch Awards back in December. Well done it!

Tourbillon movements have utilised constant force before; dual axis tourbillons tend to include a remontoir, a second power source, for just that reason. Here though both functions have been combined into a single unit. It’s already impressive and the daily accuracy of +5 to -1 seconds is fantastic, but the Kodo lives up to its name – which means ‘heartbeat’ in Japanese –when you listen to it. The combination of 50-hour remontoir and balance creates a syncopated ticking that’s unique. Set in a platinum and titanium case, the Kodo looks, sounds and works like nothing else out there. If we could give it another medal, we would.

THE DETAIL

• 43.8mm platinum and titanium case with 100m water resistance

• 9ST1 calibre manual-wind movement with 72-hour power reserve

• £310,000, limited to 20 pieces, seikoboutique.co.uk

THE DETAIL

• 46mm titanium case with 30m water resistance

• In-house hand-wound movement w ith 65-hour power reserve

• CHF 860,000 (approx. £760,000), vianney-halter.com

VIANNEY HALTER

Deep Space Resonance Tourbillon

Right. Where to start with this one? First you create resonance, where two balances placed in close proximity affect each other to eventually synchronise with one another. It’s a complication that embraces cutting-edge acoustic physics. THEN you put the entire dual-balance assemble in a triple-axis tourbillon. It’s not such a big surprise that the mechanism took independent watchmaker Vianney Halter the entirety of 2020 to build. It’s nuts.

Architecturally, there’s nothing else quite like it. Dominated by the movement of the resonance tourbillon, the hours and quarter hours can be read at the top periphery, with more accurate minutes at the bottom. For a watch with this amount of intensely haute horology channelled into it, it’s remarkably easy to actually use. If anyone questions why you, as a collector, find haute horology so fascinating, show them this. If they don’t get it then, there’s no help for them.

THE DETAIL

• 43mm white gold case with 30m water resistance

• 184 manual-wind calibre with 50-hour power reserve

• Price on request, limited edition of 18 pieces, jaeger-lecoultre.com

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetual

We’ve already discussed the gyrotourbillon and its place at, arguably, the ultimate multi-axis tourbillon. It’s a masterpiece of inventive horology but in the case of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s own Hybris Mechanica, is just one complication of many. The gyrotourbillon in the calibre 184 has been downsized from previous versions, meaning there’s space for not just a perpetual calendar but a Westminster chime, too.

So, in short, you have a gravity-defying Big Ben nestled with a calendar that rarely, if ever, needs adjusting. More impressively, that’s all been fit into a relatively wearable 43mm timepiece whose pointer date and apertures either side of the dial make it remarkable easy to read. It should be a lot to take in, but it’s not. Provided, of course, you don’t get too distracted by the tourbillon. Or the visible hammers when it chimes. Or, well, the rest of it.

“

Architecturally, there’s nothing else quite like Vianney Halter’s Deep Space Resonance Tourbillon

Style

\ 82 / Lend your wardrobe some international flavour

\ 84 / The coolest menswear boutiques in the world

\ 100 / Pairing spring newness with retro brown tickers

EDITED BY SHANE KURUP & SAM KESSLER

\ 98 / All-weather stompers with a classical twist

Spring Awakening

> > As things start heating up again, we usher in a new season of style, meaning it’s time to revamp your wardrobe with some soon-to-be staples. Of course, that means knowing where to shop which, thanks to the efforts of the globe-trotting Charlie Thomas, you can discover, no matter what part of the world you’re in. It also means selecting the perfect watch to match your new spring-toned ensembles – our pick would be something fittingly warm and brown, paired with the best SS23 has to offer.

Beyond Borders

Edited by SHANE C. KURUP

Traversing time zones for both work and play has become the norm for many of us and is influencing the way we dress. Go global with the brands bringing cosmopolitan flavour to your wardrobe from the four corners of the earth

Star-spangled Finesse

> > The States has got the art of cool casual dressing down to a tee –much of which can be credited to the subcultural clans that have hailed from the nation. Few brands exemplify this more than New York-based Noah, which taps into the aesthetic signatures of skate, surf and various musical genres, to offer a wardrobe of athletic, easy-going separates and tailoring made from premium fabrics that are equally good for work or play. Founded by Brendon Babenzien, former creative director at muchhyped streetwear brand, Supreme, each collection delivers an inimitable take on Americana and SS23’s 1990s-inspired sweats, track jackets and varsity ruggers are no exception. noahny.com

Made for Walking

> > Re-soleable Goodyearwelted shoes have always had a solid footing when it comes to longevity, but now your kicks are catching up.

Fashion Fusion

> > Blending different cuisines often bears delicious fruit and a cultural amalgam can be just as appealing on the design table, too. Priya Ahluwalia, founder of Ahluwalia, draws on her Indian and Nigerian heritage designing tailoring, sporty separates and artisanal knitwear that combine elements from African and Asian cultures, while championing sustainability and the wellbeing of garment workers. SS23’s collection, ‘Africa is Limitless’, takes its cues from across the continent, with Tunisian kilims, technicolor Congolese Sapeurs and Kenyan and Rwandan bead embellishment all part of the mix. The style memo here is clear: go bold or go home. ahluwalia.world

Catherine Meuter and Stefan Mathys, who have over 25 years experience in footwear design, founded Swiss brand Vyn in 2019 with the idea that sneakers can be made for the long walk, too. Made from sustainably sourced European calf hides, its tennis shoes are built to allow heel counters and pieces to be customised and replaced when they wear out, giving your beloved courts a fresh lease of life. The Cantons might soon be known for more than chronometers and chocolate.

Vyn Classic leather sneakers, £384 vyn.one

© Letty Schmiterlow

The Deccan Touch

> > You might be familiar with the red-hot Madras at your local curry house, but it’s also a checked fabric originating from the city of its namesake. In fact, Indian textiles have long been prized for their artistic merit, which New Delhi-based label Kardo celebrates with its bold workwear designs that capture the colourful spirit of Hindustan, while preserving the nation’s textile traditions from blockprinting to Chikankari embroidery. This season’s collection, entitled ‘Friendship’ explores the cultural inter-connectivity of our modern world. Because just like a beautiful friendship, a well-curated wardrobe is worth treasuring. kardo.co

Roll on Summer

> > Anyone who has spent time in the land Down Under will know our antipodean cousins are blessed with a climate that allows you to legitimately dress like you’re forever on holiday. Albus Lumen, established in 2015 by Australian stylist Marina Afonina, cites Slim Aarons’ iconic jet-set 1976 tome, Poolside, as its creative anchor, which is reflected in its louche, lightweight suiting and laidback resortwear, produced by native Aussie artisans. It’s just the sort of thing you want on standby in your long-haul suitcase – or to swan about in at home for that warm, fuzzy holiday feeling. albuslumen.com and matchesfashion.com

Firm Foundations

> > Bibimbap, Squid Game and K-pop are probably in your cultural crosshairs, but what about Korean couture? Seoul-born Woo Youngmi was raised by an architect father and aesthete mother and her eponymous label draws on the sculptural forms of buildings and art to serve up sharp-shouldered tailoring and idiosyncratic casualwear. To mark the brand’s 20th anniversary this season, Ms Woo has revisited some of her greatest hits of the noughties. The capacious wide-leg trousers and slouchy double-breasted blazers feel right on point for post-pandemic dressing up. en.wooyoungmi.com

Trunk London on Chiltern Street is the place to go for relaxed tailoring and dressed-up casualwear

A JET-SET TOUR OF THE COOLEST MENSWEAR STORES IN THE WORLD

When it comes to sourcing new pieces for your wardrobe, nothing beats browsing a cleverly curated boutique. Use our pick of the coolest menswear stores in the world as an excuse to combine your shopping trip with a bit to travel, too…

WORDS: CHARLIE THOMAS

Online shopping is easy. But it’s also a bit boring. You lose the discovery and exploration that comes with roaming around a physical shop, and the potential wonders that lie within its rails go undetected. The decline of the brick and mortar shop has been well documented, but its appeal is as strong as ever. It’s a way for brands to showcase what it is they’re all about, with the interior design, furniture, fittings, layout and smell all contributing to its core identity. Plus, a good one is infinitely more exciting than staring at a loading screen. Head to a well-designed shop and you might find yourself pushing the boundaries a bit more, discovering a new style or design you might have otherwise overlooked. There’s the potential for uncovering new fabrics, shapes, colours and brands you might not have previously known. And it doesn’t matter where you are in the world. Chances are

there’s a cool space nearby that’s got your name all over it.

From vintage military specialists through to tailoring aficionados and casualwear havens, these are the coolest menswear stores in the world…

The first stop is London and Clutch Cafe. It’s one of those stores you could spend a considerable amount of time in. Open the front doors on London’s Great Portland Street and it’s easy to get carried away by the sheer amount of pieces lining the Grade II listed walls. The doors first opened in 2018 under the umbrella of Clutch Magazine, Japan’s leading heritage menswear-focused title. The offering mirrors the style seen in the

mag’s pages, with a number of niche Japanese brands being stocked alongside a collection of more well-known names. Indeed, if you’re in the market for expertly made, military and vintageinspired items from leather jackets to selvedge denim, this is one of the finest destinations in the world.

But what about something smarter? In a relatively short space of time, Trunk Clothiers has become one of the coolest menswear spots in London, and by extension, the world. Actually boasting two stores just down from each other on Chiltern Street, Trunk is well known for its clean aesthetic. It stocks some of the best ready-to-wear tailoring brands alongside beautiful shirts, knitwear and Goodyear welted shoes. Indeed, this is the place to go for relaxed tailoring and dressed up casualwear. The founder, Mats Klingberg, is always immaculately turned out and is a perfect representation of what the shop is all about. Expect slim, Italian-style tailoring, with brands like Boglioli and Lardini being regular fixtures, alongside some of the most beautiful bags and accessories you’ll find anywhere.

Moving across the Atlantic, there are numerous menswear destinations in New York City, making it difficult to whittle down to just one or two. But among the very best has to be Noah and its Mulberry Street store. Distinctively painted in the brand’s white, red and blue colourway, it stands out amongst its neighbours. Inside the light-filled space you’ll find racks of the brand’s highly wearable designs amongst the large rugs and leather Chesterfield sofas. Then there’s the eminently friendly staff who instantly dispel any notions of pretence, which can often be found in competitor shops. The brand is renowned for its modern updates on classic menswear pieces, all overseen by founder Brendon Babenzien, the ex-creative director of Supreme.

Speaking of well clued-up creative directors, and if you’re ever in Tokyo,

[Above and opposite] Noah in New York City is a go-to for classic menswear with a modern touch, as well as fantastic service. The brand was founded by the ex-creative director of Supreme, Brendon Babenzien

Head to a well-designed shop and you might find yourself pushing the boundaries a bit more, discovering a new style you may have overlooked

you need to visit Bryceland’s. It has long been a favourite of menswear gurus, with creative director Ethan Newton offering his unique take on tailoring and casualwear. The recipe hasn’t really changed since the brand was founded in 2015, and for good reason. Its Shibuya store in Tokyo pedals some of the finest tailoring you’ll find in Asia, with its in-house label specialising in soft, often three-roll-two jackets in unique checks and textures. It combines this tailoring nous with an Americana aesthetic though, with denim jackets, militaryinspired outerwear and bowling shirts featuring regularly. The shop also stocks plenty of vintage goods, making it somewhat of a haven for those who favour quality menswear from all eras.

A list of cool menswear stores wouldn’t be complete with Paris and Beige Habilleur. Pinning down exactly what Beige Habilleur excels in is difficult, because everything it does is effortless. From the brands it stocks to its lookbooks and the design of its shop in Paris’s 16th arrondissement, it’s the definition of ‘cool’. The shop stocks menswear’s most elegant brands, from Ring Jacket to Coherence, and displays them in a way that’s easy to navigate. It’s one of those places you could walk into, close your eyes, pick out five pieces and know you’re going to look good. Look out for its limited-edition collaboration pieces, or just admire the minimalist design of the store’s layout and the expertly styled mannequins.

For vintage menswear, there is no better destination in the world than Broadway & Sons. The Gothenburg store (that’s in Sweden in case you were wondering) has been going since 1982 and was founded by vintage enthusiast David Asseraf. Today you’re more likely to see his two sons – Nathaniel and Noam – in the store, as they are both

[Top two images] Bryceland’s in Tokyo, which offers some of the finest tailoring in Asia; [left] a predictably stylish look from Beige Habilleur Paris’s lookbook; [right, top] Beige’s Habilleur’s effortlessly cool interior; [bottom two images] vintage haven Broadway & Sons in Gothenburg

Pinning down exactly what Beige Habilleur excels in is difficult, because everything it does is effortless

heavily involved in the business. Aside from both being impossibly good looking, they have excellent taste, sourcing the very best vintage menswear pieces from around the globe. The treasure trove of a store stocks everything from blood-stained Vietnamera CPO shirts through to Big E Levi’s denim and rare chain-stitched varsity jackets. In short, if vintage is your thing, this is the place to go.

Lastly, for somewhere you may not have heard of, try Ohkoos in Seoul. The store, located in the Sinsa-Dong area of Gangnam-gu, is beloved for its unique interpretation of classic American style. Expect subversive takes on icons like varsity sweatshirts, Oxford cloth buttondowns, chinos and sportswear, all inflicted with wide cuts, interesting fabrics and a minimal aesthetic. The shop itself stocks a wide range of brands, but look out for the home-brewed label Big Union, which applies a distinctly South Korean aesthetic onto timeless menswear staples.

Broadway & Sons stocks everything from blood-stained Vietnam-era CPO shirts to rare chain-stitched varsity jackets

[Above] Ohkoos’ lookbook. The store, in Seoul, is beloved for its unique interpretation of classic American style; [below] Noah in New York City provides the perfect backdrop for a spot of shopping

GLOBE-TROTTER PALM SPRINGS CARRY-ON SUITCASE

With its very first Destination collection, British suitcase specialist Globe-Trotter has not only channelled the mid-century cool of resort town Palm Springs, but has taken the surrounding Coachella Valley as its colour palette. The result is a threepiece capsule – consisting of a small attaché, four-wheeled carry-on and large check-in suitcase – liveried in a mix of sandy leather and bright-blue straps, stunning whether or not you’re heading to the Californian sunshine. For a few days away you obviously don’t need something as massive as the 30’’ check-in bag, so opt instead for the 20’’ carry-on. It’s both big enough and stylish enough for anywhere you care to take it.

£1,695, globe-trotter.com

THE BEST BAGS FOR A LONG WEEKEND

Words: Sam Kessler

From long days on the fairways to impromptu city breaks, you can get a lot done in a weekend, with or without planning. All you need is to pack a bag and get going. Of course, what bag you pack is vital. It needs to be big enough for the essentials you’ll require, versatile enough to work on the fly and stylish enough that you’re not embarrassed to be seen with it.

So, from pared-back holdalls to serious cabin bags, here’s our selection of the best weekend-ready luggage pieces for that perfect short-term getaway

ETTINGER HURLINGHAM OVERNIGHT BAG

As classically elegant as its namesake club, the Hurlingham overnight bag is everything you want for a well-heeled weekend away somewhere idyllic like the Cotswolds. The well-poised halfway house between practical sports bag and everyday holdall, the combination of olive green canvas (a strong, impeccably practical cotton drill, to be precise) and brown leather trim beg to be thrown in the back of a vintage Jag for an impromptu jaunt. Alongside the capacious main compartment, there are two small slip pockets to keep your more delicate necessities in order and an optional shoulder strap for when your other half doesn’t pack quite as light as you’d like.

£555, ettinger.co.uk

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI LEISURE BAG

Laid-back luxury is both what we here at Oracle demand from a long weekend and also happens to be the lifeblood of Brunello Cucinelli, whose Italian flair is unmistakable in the fittingly-named Leisure bag. Painfully stylish, impeccably made and pristine in the kind of combination of cotton and linen you’d expect from a warm weather Italian suit, it’s effortless elegance incarnate. Paired with contrasting brown, beautifully textured leather, the only thing this bag is missing is a much-needed dose of Riviera sunshine and a couple of Aperol spritz. It’s definitely an investment piece.

£3,380, shop.

brunellocucinelli.com

The only thing this bag is missing is a muchneeded dose of Riviera sunshine

If you’re looking for a bag that not only has space for all the essentials for your climbing trip but looks like it should be halfway up a cliff face with you, look no further. Montblanc’s Extreme 3.0 Duffle combines a technical-looking embossed leather construction with a massive lock directly inspired by the climbing world. It’s boxier and deeper than your usual duffle bag which, thanks to the stiffness of the leather, helps protect your luggage better than canvas. Paired with a shoulder strap and both external and internal pockets, you have everything you need close to hand. And hey, it’s definitely a statement piece, even if your planned weekend is calmer than tackling the Matterhorn.

£1,290, montblanc.com

MONTBLANC EXTREME 3.0 DUFFLE WITH M LOCK 4810 BUCKLE

SMYTHSON 48-HOUR TRAVEL BAG

Don’t consider this one a challenge – despite looking like a svelte everyday bag from the side, Smythson’s 48-Hour Travel Bag lives up to its name. As is the British leather maestro’s wont, the bag’s crafted from beautiful large grain calf in a dark taupe hue with an immaculate silhouette. Organisationally though, it’s a cut above even that, with pockets for electronics, valuables and a double zip opening so you can really fill it to the brim. Sure, you can’t take the kitchen sink, but there’s more than enough to pack the essentials and look fantastic doing so.

£1,550, Smythson.com

RIMOWA CABIN TWIST

When you want to protect your valuable necessities from the rigours of on-board luggage bins, it’s worth relying on a tried-and-tested classic. Enter Rimowa’s original cabin-sized suitcase. The iconic block of ridged aluminium has everything you need: flex dividers to keep your clothes crumple-free and in order, TSAstandard locks so that security don’t damage your case and the ergonomics of Rimowa’s multi-wheel system, a few thousand feet above the cheap, shopping trolley versions of lesser suitcases. The fact that the Cabin Twist looks incredible is just the icing on top of this practical, well-proportioned cake. Fit for a long weekend or a pared-back week’s worth of stuff, it’s a classic design for good reason.

£1,160, rimowa.com

Fit for a long weekend or pared-back week’s worth of stuff, the Rimowa case is a classic for a reason

BENNET WINCH SUIT CARRIER HOLDALL

If there’s one thing that’s guaranteed not to travel well, it’s your suits. Without a purpose-built carrier, they’re going to come out of the other end in need of a steam regardless of how careful you are. Enter Bennet Winch. The SC Holdall is actually two bags in one. On the outside you have a suit carrier designed to gently curve your suit without wrinkling it; on the inside a cylindrical, structured duffle bag, secured together with magnets and straps. It’s functionally inspired, eminently practical and in a beautiful dark chocolate brown, as classically elegant as a vintage Vacheron. Just be warned, there’s a bit of a wait for one of these babies – apparently you can’t put a price on looking immaculate – but it’ll be worth it when you can finally travel with your suits fold-free.

£750, bennettwinch.com

MONOS CARRY-ON PRO PLUS

Built like a safe from the same kind of aerospace-grade polycarbonate your favourite tonneau-shaped sports watch maestros favour, the larger sibling to Monos’ award-winning carry-on is a serious piece of performance luggage. Sized to fit into overhead bins on most flights, it’s as roomy as it is rugged, complete with an interior pocket designed to fit a 15’’ laptop. You shouldn’t really be working on a weekend away, but you can’t always avoid it and, in more ways than one, this monolithic beast of a suitcase is serious business. Available in a variety of colours, you can’t go wrong with the gorgeous ocean blue and for this price, it’s hard to resist – just another benefit of this kind of case material.

£332, uk.monos.com

Roomy and rugged, the Monos Carry-On Pro Plus is a serious piece of performance luggage

Edited by SAM KESSLER

CHEANEY TORRIDON R HIKER BOOT

Designed to tackle any terrain while still looking incredibly dapper, these beautifully crafted boots are about to become your new go-to

> > Classical men’s footwear and hiking don’t always go together. On the one hand you have the kind of handmade shoes built the same way for time immemorial; on the other you have ultra-modern amalgamations of performance materials and technical innovation. Never the two shall meet

– unless of course it involves Cheaney.

The Torridon R Hiker Boot does what it says on the tin. Impossibly rugged and designed to tackle any terrain, the thick, solid leather makes for a tough, waterproof outer shell while chunky rubber soles combine comfort and grip in equal measure. The hooked eyelets are as well-entrenched as a carabiner up the North Face and combined with a padded tongue keep the boots solidly and comfortably on.

All of that is just what you expect from a serious hiking boot. What sets the Torridon apart however is that the deep burgundy colouring and classic, versatile silhouette are more in line with semiformal pieces. In short, they’re one of the few outdoor-ready pairs of boots that you can actually wear in the city.

Built for the great outdoors, styled for the city and with the kind of construction that’ll keep them looking their best in both environments, the Torridon boots are as versatile as they are handsome. And should those looks slip with age (we’ve all been there) Cheaney can always refurbish them to their youthful best.

£475, cheaney.co.uk

NEW SEASON STYLE

Spring has almost sprung so it’s time for a wardrobe update in warmer-weather tones of brown, green and taupe. Of course, you need a watch to match so we’ve paired these SS23 looks with a mix of new and neo-vintage brown-dialled pieces. Beige has never been more… well, un-beige.

Photography by FRASER VINCENT & PHILLIP HAMMOND

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1R 40mm rose gold case with 60m water resistance

Calibre 240 PS IRM C LU automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve £66,670, patek.com

Gant cotton linen slub jumper £165, gant.co.uk

Connolly tobacco horizontal cord trousers £329, connollyengland.com

Brunello Cucinelli leather western-style belt £540, brunellocucinelli.com

Mr P. green suede shirt jacket £625, mrporter.com

Bode embroidered silk shirt £495, mrporter.com

agnès b. white rue du jour print scarf £45 and khaki print bandana £35, agnesb.co.uk

Bathyscaphe Desert Edition

43mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance

Calibre 1315DD automatic movement with 120-hour power reserve £9,360, watchfinder.co.uk

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

Calibre MT5400 automatic movement with 70-hour power reserve £3,980, boutique exclusive, tudorwatch.com

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze 39mm bronze case with 200m water resistance

Ahluwalia green satin shirt £495, matchesfashion.com

Pringle white cotton vest £24.99 for two, sockshop.co.uk

Officine Générale belted organic cotton canvas trousers £235, matchesfashion.co.uk

Alice Made This Piccard gold diamond necklace

£690, alicemadethis.com

Breitling Datora

43mm stainless steel case with 30m water resistance

Automatic chronometer movement

£3,540, watchfinder.co.uk

Brunello Cucinelli denim jacket £1,500 and leather westernstyle belt £540 brunellocucinelli.com

Bode printed camp collar shirt £460, mrporter.com

Frame beige boxy jeans £215, frame-store.com

Alice Made This Piccard gold diamond necklace £690, alicemadethis.com

Tod’s sunglasses £220, tods.com

Globe-Trotter marmalade suitcase £1,795, globe-trotter.com

El

37mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

El Primero automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve £7,100, zenith-watches.com

Zenith Chronomaster Revival

Primero A385

Original Madras flannel robe, £125 and Original Madras striped flannel shirt £120, mrporter.com

Luca Faloni khaki linen trousers £150, lucafaloni.com

Tusting canvas crossbody bag £425, tusting.co.uk

Styling by Jessica Punter

| Photography by Fraser Vincent

| Model: Saurabh at PRM|Grooming: Tim Pateman for thelionandthefox.com | Thanks to The Other House South Kensington, 1517 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4JJ theotherhouse.com

Words: Sam Kessler

Men of Influence: RICARDO GUADALUPE

THE CEO OF HUBLOT ON THRILLERS, SINATRA AND THE INEVITABLE COMEDOWN FROM THE 2022 WORLD CUP

What was the last watch you bought?

It was an Hublot watch! It has to be. It’s the Big Bang Integrated, so the Big Bang on a bracelet in titanium with a Unico movement, so the watch that we launched… three years ago. I really feel like we got the bracelet completely right on this one!

What interests do you have outside of watch collecting?

Gastronomy. I’m passionate about food, about ways of cooking. It’s one of the reasons we’re in partnership with three-star Michelin chefs. It’s one of my main passions other than watches – as well as football of course.

What’s at the top of your wishlist?

My wishlist? There’s nothing physical I particularly want, just to take a holiday, to travel to beautiful places. Last weekend I was at Amanpuri in Phuket. It was a place I dreamt of going when I was younger and I finally did it. There are many more places I’ve dreamt of going too, so my wishlist is long.

What is a recent find or discovery?

I recently came across a great Swiss author called Joël Dicker. He’s quite young, in his 30s, but he’s incredibly successful. I read one of his books on my holidays and I was amazed. I was excited, couldn’t put it down. It’s all suspense, murder and this one’s set here in the States – I finished it in three days!

What Inspires you?

Life! Travelling, meeting new people, that’s where I get inspiration from. Whether it’s Asia, America or the Middle East – I was in Qatar recently for the World Cup – it’s all about not being in the office at our manufacture in Nyon and experiencing new things, cultures and meeting new peoples.

[Clockwise from above]: Ricardo Guadalupe with a Hublot referee board; with Usain Bolt and Novak Djokovic at the Hublot FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 closing party; with Carlos Carlito Fuente Jr at the same event

There’s nothing physical on my wishlist I particularly want, just to take a holiday and travel to beautiful places. There are many places I’ve dreamt of going, so the list is long…

What is a book, podcast or album that changed the way you think?

This was when I was young, but has still had a lasting impact on me. It’s quite basic, but the discovery of Frank Sinatra for me has been formative and was an incredible change. Still today, I’m listening to his music. He helped me appreciate a new kind of music that I hadn’t ever heard before with songs that talk about life in a realistic way. His voice really is one of the best ever and changed my perspective in a very real way.

Who is a celebrity or person of note that you admire?

Pelé. He was the king of football and someone I admired greatly, his humility, his generosity, of course his incredible talent, his success and performance in the world of football. He was the only person to be world champion three times! Of course, he has just passed away but I’ll remember him as a star and will miss him.

What is your ideal long weekend?

This might sound boring, but I would say staying at home in my house. I live in Switzerland, close to Lausanne and close to the forest, so taking a walk is something I love doing but often don’t have the time. In the summer I love cooking outside, so I’d invite friends over, make food, open a great bottle of wine and watch the football – the Premier League in particular. It’s something I want to do every weekend the Premier League is on. If I can.

What would we always find in your fridge?

I know everyone has it in their fridge but milk. I need a good cappuccino in the morning. If I don’t, I’m upset for the rest of the day, so I always have plenty of milk – and then some more in reserve.

What is a rule or mantra that you live by?

For me it’s always looking to improve or learn something new every day. I’m already at a certain age but I still want to learn something at every level. It can be in my job of course, but anywhere in life. If I learn something in a day, then I am happy.

What does the year ahead look like for you? It’s hard to think about as I’m still in my head connected to 2022. I have lived an incredible moment in my life which is the World Cup in Qatar that ended less than a month ago. Starting again at zero is hard to get into my head. We won’t have the World Cup, so this year will be a year of consolidation for us. We have

some things coming up with art, but I’m conscious of everything that’s happening around the world, enough that single digit growth would be nice for Hublot. I hope the war will end, we hope China will recover – I’m an optimist in general so I believe they will both happen – and if they do it will be a bright 2023. Just with less football.

I always look to improve or learn something new every day. I’m already at a certain age but I still want to learn something at every level. If I learn something in a day, then I am happy

[From top] Referees at the FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022. Guadalupe refers to the tournament as “an incredible moment in my life”; Hublot-branded additional time signage at the event

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

CHRISTOPHER WARD C65

DUNE BRONZE

The British brand’s latest tool watch is a retro-styled star in full bronze, which may or may not be a good thing…

THE SPECS

• 38mm bronze case with 150m water resistance

• Sellita SW200 COSC automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £1,205, christopherward.com

It’s hard to talk about Christopher Ward these days without mentioning the Bel Canto in the same breath. The accessible British brand’s repurposing of a jumping hours into a chiming hours was one of the most impressive launches of 2022 and one that’s still at fever pitch if the speed with which the recent colours were snapped up is anything to go by.

There was always a risk that Christopher Ward would look at the Bel Canto’s success and do what any business would and milk it. A rainbow of colours, weird special editions, all Bel Canto, all the time. There’s still a chance we may see a bit of that, but at least the C65 Dune shows that it won’t be to the minimisation of other cool pieces.

The C65 Dune is essentially a new baseline model for Christopher Ward, a streamlined field watch built for everyday wear. The main difference between this and something like the C63 Sealander which ostensibly shares the same space is that, like the C65 Divers, the Dune has a more retro feel to it.

In part, that’s due to the sumptuous dials, offering 1950s richness instead of the more modern, utilitarian, military matte we’ve become used to. That vintage-adjacent look is also hammered home with a box crystal. It’s always good to see the pricier sapphire crystal, even if it’s slightly at odds with Christopher Ward’s contemporary Light Catcher case.

So far, so good. But even by the new Dune Collection’s standards – which includes a standard automatic and a limited-edition GMT version – the Bronze we have here is a special case.

Despite 2022 having more than its fair share of bronze watches, I’m still not sold on it. At the baseline, I like the colour of the metal, I like the contrast with darker colours and generally think most bronze watches look, on the surface, absolutely stunning. What I don’t like are the innate properties of bronze that make it unique.

By that I of course mean the patina, which feels like a ‘feature not a bug’ situation to me. Over time it gets a patina as it’s exposed to air, the oil from your skin, general environmental shifts. It can look like graceful age; more often than not it looks dirty. A full bronze watch like this will very quickly start looking dirty.

The other downside on the C65 Dune in particular is discolouration. Many bronze watches have a steel or titanium caseback, just to avoid the metal colouring your skin a sickly green tint. The Dune does the same with a sapphire and steel caseback. But the bracelet is all bronze. That’s going to discolour your wrist, even outside of a warm spring afternoon.

The problem is that the bronze suits the C65 Dune to high hell. It works flawlessly with the subtle facets of the Light Catcher case and just as well with the retro box crystal. The bronze indexes, hands and logo are perfect on the shimmering blue dial and the full bronze bracelet is as eye-catching as it is comfortable.

It’s a catch-22; I want to wear it because the bronze looks phenomenal, but by wearing it the metal will patina, which I don’t want. That’s not to say you can’t clean it of course, and bronze buffs up nicely with just a bit of elbow grease. So yes, if bronze bothered me that much, I could just clean

The bottom line is that the C65 Dune Bronze is a stunner. That’s the same of the green version as the blue, with their retro touches and accessible builds

my watches more. Honestly, that’s something I should do more anyway, regardless of metal. But who has time for that?

Inside is the same Sellita calibre as the standard automatic model, but in keeping with the slightly more prestigious construction, it’s been chronometer certified. It has the same 38-hour power reserve, but with the assurance of COSC testing to back up its workhorse accuracy. I’d still like to see more of Christopher Ward’s in-house calibres, but this is a solid back-up.

The bottom line is that the C65 Dune Bronze is a stunner. That’s the same of the green version as the blue (I honestly think I might prefer the green), with their retro touches and the kind of accessible build quality we’ve come to expect from Christopher Ward. If you’re less finnicky about the metal – or actually like the patina, also valid – then it’s a must-buy, especially for this price tag.

For me though, I’m not sure I could ever get on board with a full bronze piece like this. That’s not saying I’m not tempted; just that I’d very quickly swap it onto a strap.

£1,205, christopherward.com

GRAND SEIKO EVOLUTION 9 SLGA021G LAKE SUWA BEFORE DAWN

A darker dial makes all the difference in a new, non-limited glance at Grand Seiko’s placid Lake Suwa

I’m in a bit of an odd spot with Grand Seiko at the moment. Given the plethora of monthly if not weekly drops of shiny new dial variations, I find myself getting less and less excited each time I come across one. Sure, it’s a nice new pattern but it’s just another textured dial. The thing is, I only ever think that until I actually get hands-on with the thing in which case I invariably find myself fawning over it. The Evolution 9 SLGA021G Lake Suwa Before Dawn didn’t break with tradition.

Based on the Evolution 9 template rather than the classic Grand Seiko references, it’s definitely a sportier take, in a pared-back, streamlined way. It fits neatly into the sports-luxe genre for that kind of wearable versatility. And versatile it is. At 40mm it’s the perfect size for any wrist short of a bodybuilder’s and the classy mix of brushed surfaces and Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing elevates what would be a relatively flat timepiece into something with a much more nuanced, elegant look.

As Evolution 9 pieces go, it’s very par for the course in shape and overall aesthetics, if only because once again all the action is on the dial. And what a dial it is. There are plenty of water-inspired blue dials out there ranging from Maurice Lacroix’s Lake Geneva fume to Omega’s iconic Seamaster 300m Professional waves. The Lake Suwa Before Dawn puts them all to shame.

Honestly, if you saw this dial in the wild you could take a pretty straightforward guess at what it’s supposed to be: ripples on the surface of a lake. In this particular instance, it’s the lake near Grand Seiko’s studio in the Kiso Mountains of Nagano in Japan. It’s not the first time that the watchmaker has reference their surrounding landscape (it’s kind of their thing) or even the lake itself. The previous take on this pattern was released way back in August 2021, and a new version has been a long time coming.

Where the older SLGA007 had a relatively bright blue dial however, the ‘Before Dawn’ takes its name seriously with a deeper, darker colouring that you’d see in the early hours of the morning. Grand Seiko has also dropped the hints of gold in favour of an all-silver logo and index combination that I find an improvement.

As ever the indexes are polished to a typically obsessive degree, as are the hands, something you can see all the better thanks to the dark backdrop and contrast between razor-sharp edges and the more organic texture of the dial. Watches like this are all about the finer details and Grand Seiko’s are among the finest details of all.

Unfortunately, it feels a bit too close to the previous Lake Suwa for my taste. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a stunner and I appreciate that unlike the SLGA007, the SLGA021G is not limited, meaning you might actually be able to get hold of it. But even by Grand Seiko standards, which much prefer evolution in increments than experimentation (outside the Kodo, of course), it’s not a huge change. Basically, if you

missed out on the last version and need to fill the void, this is the next best (and in some ways better) thing.

Inside is the famous Spring Drive calibre 9RA2 which, as a refresher, combines an automatic mechanical movement with the unbeatable regulation of quartz, essentially the best of both worlds. It’s incredibly accurate. For context, Omega’s new Spirate adjustment system allows them to reach an accuracy of 0/+2 seconds a day. That’s phenomenal, and all due congratulations to Omega. The Spring Drive though manages 0.5 seconds per day. Sure, it incorporates quartz so comparing the two is a bit unfair, but accuracy is accuracy and the Spring Drive is more than mechanical enough to count.

On the wrist, the Lake Suwa Before Dawn is typically gorgeous. It’s where it really comes alive, as movement shows off the polishing and mix of finishes to the full. The dial, of course, is just breathtaking when it catches the right light. It manages to look haute without being showy, a difficult tightrope to walk on and one that Grand Seiko all but lives on.

So yes, it’s easy to switch off when yet another Grand Seiko dial comes out, especially if said dial is just a recolour of an older piece. But as the handful of variations of the Birch show, something as small as a change in colour can drastically change the personality of the watch as a whole. I wouldn’t say that’s quite the case here – it’s just a few shades darker – but it’s impossible not to fall slightly in love with.

And hey, if they did a green version (imitating the reflection of spring leaves on the gently rippling waters of the lake; just a suggestion) I’d put my name down here and now. £9,400, seikoboutique.co.uk

On the wrist, the Lake Suwa Before Dawn is typically gorgeous. It’s where it really comes alive, as movement shows off the polishing and finishes to the full

SPIRITS AROUND THE WORLD

Words: Aidy Smith

In this issue we give a nod to the great spirits of the world. I’ve chosen eight countries, each one showcasing a fantastic tipple, well worth your exploration. Broaden your global horizons and sip on something new

FRANCE: REMY MARTIN XO

When it comes to the spirits of France, it doesn’t get much better than cognac. Here we have one of the iconic houses of the region and their crème de la crème of serves. This stunning blend of over 100 eaux-de-vie which have been aged for a minimum of 12 years offers complexity, wonder and elegance. One sip reveals candied apricots, fresh cocoa, cedar wood and warm spices with a sensational mouthfeel and divine cigar-box finish.

£164 from The Whisky Exchange

SWEDEN: ABSOLUT ELYX

The prestige of the Absolut range, named aptly as ‘Elyx’ is a martini lover’s dream. Produced from a single estate in Southern Sweden where they’ve been cultivating wheat since the 1400s there is history and heritage packed into every bottle. To top that off, every drop is distilled in a vintage copper column dating back to 1921 – talk about wow-factor! Vibrant, sophisticated, and rather sexy in design, this smooth sensation offers white chocolate, dry spice and a macadamia, walnut, and hazelnut complexity. Count me in.

£43 from Ocado

JAMAICA: APPLETON ESTATE 15-YEAR-OLD

They say that rum in the tropical climate of Jamaica can age up to five times faster than scotch, so the Appleton 15-Year-Old is something to be desired. Completing its first distillation all the way back in 1749, Appleton prides itself on terroir-forward expressions, being one of just a few in the world to offer this when it comes to rum. Made using limestone-filtered water taken from the river that flows alongside the estate, this rum is packed full of personality. Aromas of toasted almonds and chocolate hazelnuts burst from the glass, while delicate flavours of orange zest marmalade, Madagascan vanilla and fresh espresso with sticky brown sugar entice your palate.

£70 from Royal Mile Whiskies

JAPAN: KI NO BI GIN

This could be one of the coolest gins on the planet. The opus of the Tokyo Distillery, the artisanal gin is a vibrant and delicious representation of everything that is Japan. Yuzu, lemon, sanshō pepper, ginger and gyokuro tea sit at the heart of the botanical mix, each one sourced at the peak of their foraging period to ensure maximum taste. Exceptionally dry with a Japanese accent, this liquid is pure, balanced, and full of life.

£48 from Majestic

MEXICO: MIJENTA REPOSADO

Sometimes the liquid just speaks for itself: and that’s exactly what you have here. This elegant Reposado begins its journey by being aged for six months in a blend of American white oak and European acacia casks. This unusual barrel ageing creates a distinct flavour, offering notes of roasted agave, cacao nibs, bergamot, vanilla honey, and orange blossom with dried apricots. It comes from one of the few haciendas supporting female distilling talent, and the brand is dedicated to minimising its environmental impact, ensuring every step of the process is sustainable, from procurement to packaging. A win-win for all the right reasons.

£64 from Master of Malt

Mijenta Reposado comes from one of the few haciendas supporting female distilling talent

TAIWAN: KAVALAN CONCERTMASTER PORT FINISH

Immediately hushing sceptics that don’t believe quality liquid could ever come from Taiwan, Kavalan has been a force of nature in the single malt world. Their innovation is astronomical and each year a new delight graces our palates.

Aged under the intense local climate, this treasure is laid in ex-bourbon casks before the final leg of its journey takes place in port pipes. Super complex and concentrated, you can expect to discover spiced chocolate, dried mango and apricot, black pepper, and raspberry.

£63 from Master of Malt

NEW ZEALAND: THE REID SINGLE MALT VODKA

You’ve heard of single malt when it comes to whiskies, but it’s a term that isn’t often seen in the vodka world. In 2011 Desiree Whitaker dreamt of building a distillery and so Cardrona Spirits was born. The Reid is its flagship luxury vodka, offering a single malt crafted from 100% malted barley. Its smooth texture offers hints of pear drops, biscuits, toffee and a burst of vanilla. Absolutely stunning in martinis.

£50 from Hedonism

The Reid’s smooth texture offers hints of pear drops, biscuits, toffee and vanilla

AMERICA: WHISTLEPIG 15-YEAR-OLD

As one of WhistlePig’s oldest expressions, this Estate Oak Rye is a gleaming diamond of whiskey joy. Its life is spent within Vermont Estate oak sourced from WhistlePig’s very own 500-acre farm. The result is a taste of true local terroir with every sip. Expect to find rich caramel and burnt toffee apple with allspice, sticky marmalade, and butterscotch. It’s a warm sticky toffee pudding in a glass with tobacco and an invitingly long toffee-fudge finish.

£240 from The Whisky World

PAUL HOBBS CROSSBARN PINOT NOIR 2018

Known as one of the guardians of the industry, Paul Hobbs has spent much of his time seeking out and mentoring some of the best winemakers across the globe. Point in case with Crossbarn, one of his projects on the Sonoma Coast in California. This 100% Pinot Noir showcases the very best of the climate with deep and elegant notes of cherry, rhubarb, tobacco and strawberry alongside a kiss of earl grey, cinnamon and chocolate. Mysterious and complex in all the right ways.

£37.99 from Virgin Wines

HATTINGLEY VALLEY STILL ROSÉ

This fantastic winery is home to the oldest commercial vineyards in the entirety of the country. On top of this, it’s getting rid of the stigmas that England can’t produce great rosé. The winery’s blend of Pinot Noir Précoce, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier has a distinctive mouthfeel and texture from the get-go. Layers of raspberries and strawberries come together with a distinct savoury hay note. Only a small amount was produced this year, so you better get in fast.

£19 from Hattingley Valley

EDITOR’S WINE PICKS

POMMERY CUVÉE LOUISE 2002

This nod to Louise Pommery is the most iconic wine of the house. As a testament to patience and time, the iconic sparkle is stored for a minimum of six years before being released. A selection of key plots are chosen, highlighting some of the best vineyards within Pommery’s portfolio. The golden-yellow shade gives way to a citrus-forward minerality with lemon, grapefruit, and dense white peach. A kiss of red fruits wafts by before tropical notes begin to emerge. This is a delightful champagne for those who prefer their bubbles on fresher side.

£220 from champagnedirect.co.uk

ORIN SWIFT MANNEQUIN 2018

Orin Swift has become a staple name for quality when it comes to the Americas. This stunning example of a Californian Chardonnay blend showcases the best expressions of Sonoma Valley and the Carneros as they bind together. The 2018 vintage comprises mainly Chardonnay, Moscato and Sauvignon Blanc, showcasing a vibrant jasmine, green apple, and pear nose with hints of orange blossom and light vanilla. On the palate expect countless layers of texture as white peach, honeysuckle, orange rind and early grey hit your taste buds beautifully.

£40 from Pacific Wines

Words: Tom Pettit

GOLF GULF

WHY DUBAI IS THE ULTIMATE WINTER GOLF DESTINATION

It’s no secret that Dubai is hot and dry all year round. During the summer its unrelenting heat becomes unbearable however in winter temperatures sit in the sweet-spot of 20-25°C. This makes it the perfect time to swap teeing off from the mats, playing temporary greens or freezing your nuts off outside your clubhouse in the UK for Dubai’s top-notch fairways, felt-like greens, manicured rough, and clubhouses that rival top restaurants in both service and selection. The UAE’s most populous Emirate is a comfortable six-and-a-half-hour flight from London, meaning it’s good striking distance for a five-to-seven-night stay. With professional events such as the Dubai Desert Classic and Race to Dubai held each year, the courses are championship quality, well managed and, if you time it right, a great place to also watch some of the world’s best players in action with smaller crowds than the US and Europe.

DUBAI CREEK

Let’s start with my favourite course in Dubai. Situated just ten minutes from the airport and city centre, the course at Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club offers stunning views over the water (which comes into play on the 17th and 18th holes) and offers up some of the best fairways in the world. The course layout was redesigned by Thomas Bjorn in 2004 and the iconic sail-inspired clubhouse (which also features on the back of the 20 Dirham note) isn’t just eye catching but also offers exceptional service, food and drinks.

• Par: 71

• Yardage: 7,009

• Green Fee: 875 AED

Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club offers a course layout redesigned by Thomas Bjorn in 2004, stunning views over the water, and an iconic clubhouse with exceptional food and drinks

JUMEIRAH GOLF ESTATES - FIRE AND EARTH COURSES

The Greg Norman-designed Fire Course and the DP World Tour-hosting Earth Course offer very different challenges, with the former relying on the desert’s natural features and the latter taking inspiration from European parkland courses while also including a frankly ridiculous 99 bunkers. The stunning 18th on the Earth course requires the utmost care to avoid a brook

which winds its way down from a waterfall situated at the back of the 18th green. It’s a special place.

EARTH COURSE FACTS

• Par: 72

• Yards: 7,706

• Green Fee 1,135 AED

Fire course Facts

• Par: 72

• Yards: 7,480

• Green Fee: 795 AED

EXTRA-CURRICULAR

> > You’d be hard-pressed to be bored in Dubai and it would be remiss to not experience some of its nightlife and culture. The Time Out Market is a particularly great spot for varied cuisine and offers wonderful views of the Burj Khalifa and the night-time fountain shows. It’s also next to the largest mall in the world with its famous aquarium and more watch boutiques than one could explore in a full day. Despite being a modern metropolis there is plenty of culture to soak up should you want to, with desert safaris offering insight into Bedouin culture and a chance to see wildlife all from the comfort (or discomfort) of a Land Rover Series 1. If you’re really craving more golf in the gulf, the Topgolf location in Dubai is perhaps the best in the world. Enjoy great refreshments, food and games from an elevated tee while the city shimmers in the distance.

TRUMP INTERNATIONAL

A links-style course designed by Gil Hanse and his partner Jim Wagner, the 18 holes at sand-abundant Trump International centre around a winding dry-river gorge. Though slightly wider and less challenging than some other Dubai courses you can expect the greens to be fast, especially the Biarritz-style green on the 7th. The service and clubhouses rival any five-star hotel and the novel floodlit par 3 is also perfect should you be short on time.

• Par: 71

• Yardage: 7,200 yards

• Green Fee: 525 AED, twilight 350 AED

EMIRATES GOLF CLUB - MAJILS AND FALDO COURSES

Host to the Omega Dubai Desert Classic and the only 18-hole night course in the region (redesigned by Nick Faldo in 2005), Emirates Golf Club’s location next to Dubai’s Marina district offers a stunning backdrop at virtually every turn. It’s a truly memorable place and the 8th hole on the Majils course is particularly inspiring and intimidating in equal measure, with a dogleg right offering only a thin ribbon of green amongst sprawling sand in which to land your drive. The modern, spacious clubhouse features a variety of restaurants and a great sports bar to unwind in after your round.

MAJILS COURSE FACTS

Par: 71 • Yardage: 7,301

• Green Fee: approximately 1,250 AED

Faldo Course Facts

Par: 72 • Yardage: 7,052

• Green Fee: approximately 695 AED

The Emirates Golf Club’s Majlis course and [right] Faldo course

MONTGOMERIE GOLF CLUB DUBAI

Featuring wide, rolling fairways, equally undulating greens and 49 acres of water, Mongomerie is an exceptional setting for 18 holes. It’s a very playable course for the average golfer and includes incredible facilities such as a Banyan Tree’s Angsana Spa. Worth noting that Mongomerie is separate from the Dubai Golf group so isn’t available to book on the Viya app.

• Par: 72

• Yardage: 7,317

• Green Fee: 995 AED

VIYA GOLF

> > Offering a 10% discount on many courses as well as the top hotels and experiences, the must-have Viya app is the best way to book tee times in Dubai. On top of this, when you spend money at participating locations you earn 10% back in AED.

THE ELS CLUB DUBAI

Tight Fairways, long par-4s and convex greens make this one of the tougher courses in Dubai, but it will definitely appeal to long hitters. Bunker placement is also tough and varying soft and hard sand traps require large carries. Picking the right tee is essential here. Still, there’s plenty of opportunity to practice; as much like most of the courses in Dubai the driving range and facilities are excellent.

• Par: 72

• Yardage: 7,538

• Green Fee: 895 AED

THE HOTEL

> > You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to luxury hotels in Dubai, but if you’re after a true golf hotel look no further than the Park Hyatt Dubai, which won Golf Hotel of the Year 2022 and is located a two-minute walk from the clubhouse at the Dubai Creek Golf Club. The gym and spa here are well stocked, offering a full roster of treatments, Technogym equipment and an outdoor calisthenics patio area, and there are a total of six restaurants on site ranging from the Cape Cod-inspired NOÉPE to the fragrant Thai Kitchen. Breakfast is also one of the best buffets you’re likely to see. Rooms are spacious and feature large, free-standing baths and balconies offering views of the lagoon, creek and Dubai skyline.

Nightly Rate: Rooms Start at 1,495 AED during the winter months

Featuring wide, rolling fairways, equally undulating greens and 49 acres of water, Montgomerie is an exceptional setting

BEST NEW INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT OPENINGS OF 2023

While we here at Oracle understandably focus a lot on London – we have a vested interest in eating well, after all – 2023 has already been full of vibrant new openings across the world. So, we’ve decided to expand our horizons beyond the Big Smoke and take in some of the year’s finest new epicurean offerings in the far-flung corners of the globe. From vibrant Mexican cuisine in New York to sharing platters of Australian fish in Melbourne, there’s something for every palate no matter where your travels take you

> >

EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR NEWS

GOHGAN Fukuoka, Japan

The result of a double act years in the making between Gaggan Anand and Takeshi ‘Goh’ Fukuyama – both regulars among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants – this is the pair’s first permanent space. Expect a fusion of modern French-Japanese cooking and Indian creativity and spices and, if that’s not enough reason to visit, Building 010 also houses bars, boutiques and an immersive theatre. Though any show will likely play second fiddle to this long-awaited culinary combination.

Book online at 010bld.com/gohgan

South Africa

2022 was the year of African cooking and that shows no signs of stopping. Yet while the latest culinary experience from Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen certainly showcases South African regional dishes, it does so for a maximum of just 16 diners a night. Set in a cottage in the middle of gorgeous lavender fields, the semi-tasting menu pairs locally sourced ingredients with wine from the surrounding estate. It’s rustic local dining in the most rarefied way. Let’s just hope you don’t find Ralph Fiennes in the kitchen. Register your interest at la-motte.com

Italy

After completely revamping a long-shuttered chalet in the Italian Dolomites, culinary brothers Raffaele and Massimiliano Alajmo have turned their previous winter pop-up into a fully fledged destination restaurant. Part of the Cortina d’Ampezzo resort, the classically cosy space is the perfect après ski spot offering delicious Italian fare and a fittingly substantial tasting menu. With dishes like fried pizza with seafood crudo, spider crab with black rice and braised beef cheek with black truffle, staving off the cold at Alajmo is hard to resist.

Book online at alajmo.it

↑ JAN FRANSCHHOEK Franschhoek,

↑ ALAJMO Cortina,

“Set in a cottage in the middle of gorgeous lavender fields, JAN Franschhoek offers rustic local dining in the most rarefied way”

TÁN New York, USA

It’s not like the Big Apple desperately needs another world-class Mexican restaurant but even by New York’s standards, Tán is an exciting launch. The follow-up from Jonatán Gómez Luna’s Le Chique in Cancún, the Midtown East location is as vibrant as anything you’ll find in Tulum, with a Yucatáninspired menu focusing on fresh seafood. That said, you can’t miss the pork belly dish, a heady mix of chilli, sweet potato, pickles and habanero with perfectly prepared meat. If you find yourself too full to leave for a post-meal drink, it’s worth noting that you can continue the Tulum vibe in the soon-to-open Lúm basement bar.

Book online at tannewyork.com

Riviera Maya, Mexico

If you’ve ever experienced Peruvian chef Virgilio Martínez’s Central restaurant in Lima, you’ll be as excited about this one as we are. Housed in the breathtaking La Casa de la Playa resort on the Mexican riviera, the pan-Latin American tasting menu showcases specific local ingredients like shrimp, corn, squash and spices in a bright, flavourful array of Mexican dishes with a distinct Caribbean twist. In the already enchanting surrounds of the resort, this is next-level beachside dining from one of the best chefs in the world.

Book online at lacasadelaplaya.com

“Estero showcases local ingredients in a bright, flavourful array of Mexican dishes with a Caribbean twist”

↓ BERTA Berlin, Germany

An ode to Jerusalem’s street food, Berta sees Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit take inspiration from his grandma’s cooking for a feast of traditional recipes seen through a distinctly modern lens. Housed in the Precise Tale hotel in Berlin, the restaurant pairs flavourful dishes like smoked sea bass with spaetzle (hearty German egg noodle dumplings) with low-key elegant surrounds for comfort food done right. This is one of the most long-awaited openings in Berlin and it’s easy to understand why.

Book online at bertarestaurant.com

BARKADA Hong Kong

The first restaurant from Instagram’s Indulgent Eats – real name Jen Balisi – translates to ‘friends’ in Tagalog and the emphasis on modern Filipino comfort foods like Adobo popcorn chicken definitely encourages sharing every dish. There are a few local classics on the menu too like Sisig (a punchy mix of pig face and belly and chicken liver) perfectly paired with a cocktail courtesy of the experiential epicureans at Singular Concepts. Warm, satisfying and unpretentious, Barkada is both neighbourhood and destination restaurant. Stir your appetite at instagram.com/barkada.hk

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↑ PETERMEN Sydney, Australia

While Melbourne often steals the epicurean limelight from Sydney, the city’s culinary scene is set to explode in 2023, with a host of new openings –including Petermen, Josh and Julie Niland’s second proper restaurant since critically acclaimed Saint Peter. The new opening will have a similar approach to the pair’s debut, meaning an emphasis on sustainably sourced fish and local Australian ingredients. Don’t expect pretentious frills here, just good, down-to-earth seafood and some seriously impressive sharing dishes –Mooloolaba yellowfin tuna chateaubriand with all the trimmings is a sure-fire winner.

Book online at petermen.com.au

“Expect good, down-to-earth seafood and some seriously impressive sharing dishes at Petermen in Melbourne”

Nobu as a name is one that will set the taste buds of most epicureans into an expectant frenzy; the hospitality group’s reputation for culinary excellence and Japanese flair is legendary. The question is then, how does that reputation translate to a hotel? Better yet, how does it fit into a frenetic, designcentric neighbourhood like Shoreditch? The answer is simple: it doesn’t.

From the outside, the hotel’s an architectural stand-out for the area, long but only a few floors high and more space-age than anything else in the area. It looks like it crash-landed on an alien planet (you won’t have heard of it), only emphasised by the fact it looks as though it’s been sheared off at the end.

The hotel has evidently learned a lot, catering more literally to its specifically well-heeled clientele and the aesthetics are a fantastic representation of that. Dark woods, glossy surfaces with bronze touches and a combination of natural materials and sharp-edged lines all come together across interiors that exude luxury. There’s no shabby chic or hipster-centric quirks here, just calm spaces and plenty of shadowed uplighting.

Upstairs are the bedrooms, dripping in vintage Japanese cool, with the top floor only added in 2022 due to demand. I stayed in the Miyaba Suite, which translates to ‘elegant’ and it more than lived up to its name. The open-plan layout made the most of the top-floor’s natural light and the views across the London skyline – though it was a bit too cold to make best use of the balcony.

Both the suite and the rooms in general are more neutral and traditionally comfortable than the glossy rest of the hotel. Little zen touches are everywhere but done in a tasteful way that broadens out into an international take on low-key cool.

Obviously, the restaurant is the focal point of the entire hotel and for good reason. Even on a standard evening, its combination of ultra-modern Japanese dining and impeccable service make every bite memorable, while the painfully cool basement area is as suited to a night cap cocktail as it is an all-out tasting menu, but on the night I visited, there was a bonus I wasn’t expecting.

I was fortunate enough to be there on an evening where Nobu Matsuhisa

Words: Mark Edwards

One Night Stand: NOBU

SHOREDITCH

A DESTINATION RESTAURANT IS JUST THE START OF WHAT MAKES THIS ODE TO MODERN LUXURY A MUST-STAY

himself was in the kitchen. And it was unbelievable. The honorary menu included decadent caviar tacos, a trio of impeccable sashimi, clean and delicate, and a punchy fennel salad with dry miso and sardine. Sushi followed before the twin main events: dover sole with a flavourful shiso salsa and, of course, Wagyu beef accompanied by Nobu’s signature sauces.

This isn’t the kind of dinner that happens at Nobu Hotel every night, but if you can find out ahead of time it pretty much dictates which evenings you’ll want to dine there. It’s a menu not to be missed.

There’s a lot to love at Nobu Shoreditch, from the eye-catching exterior and the comfortable rooms to the restaurant that, even if you’re not staying the night, should be on your must-try list. If you want the nightlife of Shoreditch paired with the kind of world-class luxury the area often avoids, then look no further.

Book online at london-shoreditch.nobuhotels.com

©

Will

Pryce

[Clockwise from above] Interiors at Nobu Shoreditch are elegant and refined, aimed at clientele to match; expect all your favourite Nobu classics in the restaurant; it’s hard to miss the hotel’s ultra-modern exterior

UNSUNG VINTAGE HERO: LOUIS COTTIER

The man responsible for how we see the world (time)

While the World Time complication is synonymous with Patek Philippe , the man who invented it was Louis Cottier. [Clockwise from top left] The ref. 96 HU designed by Cottier for Patek Philippe; the ref. 3372, built for Vacheron Constantin in 1932; Patek ref. 2523; the man himself

As it’s our Global issue, it would be remiss of us here at Oracle Time to not touch upon the World Time watch. It’s one of the quintessential traveller’s complications alongside the GMT and is in many ways a cut above the more streamlined, dual time zone display, but showcasing not two or three but 24 different zones.

It’s also a lot more rare than the GMT and it’s not hard to see why. Adding a fourth hand doesn’t hugely impact the layout of a dial or the space that you have to show the actual time. Fitting the city names, shortened or otherwise, that correspond to the various medians around the world, is easier said than done. Indeed, it’s difficult to the extent that there’s only really one main way to do it, a way that has remained relatively unchanged since the early 1930s.

First, it’s worth pointing out that this was long, long before the advent of commercial flight. The GMT might have its roots in the 1950s (the Glycine Airman or the Rolex GMT-Master, depending on your definition), but when the World Time was designed, it was more evocative than useful. It’s no surprise then that the complication is synonymous with Patek Philippe and is indeed to this day one of its signatures. The actual man behind it however was one Louis Cottier.

Cottier was born in Carouge to watchmaker Emmanuel Cottier, so there wasn’t much chance of him doing anything else. Horology is hereditary, don’t you know. And in fact, his father Emmanuel had himself dabbled in world time displays – along with automata, mystery watches and other intensely mechanical concepts – which had never panned out. Nobody’s attempts had. They were always cramped, illegible and generally useless at doing their one job.

At the same time, Louis Cottier was working in a workshop behind the book store he ran with his wife. He’d only been fully trained for a couple of years, but given his upbringing, he had more knowledge than your average fresh-faced horologist. And so he applied himself to, amongst other things, solving the display issues with World Time watches.

In 1931, Cottier came up with a solution – one that like the best inventions was ingeniously simple. Dubbed the ‘heures universelles’ – world time in English – it showed local time at the centre, with the usual threehand layout. This ensured that at the very least, it was a useful watch for daily wear. But then he linked the 12-hour hand to a 24-hour ring, which rotated counter clockwise, half a rotation for every one of the hour hand. Around this, he wrote out the 24 cities that had come to determine the world’s time zones. As the hours ticked by, the inner ring would move in step so that at any time the wearer could see the correct hour in every part of the world. As the minute hand was always at the correct minute regardless of time zones, it meant the

wearer could read the time anywhere at a glance.

At first, Cottier had a lot more room to play with as his first World Time pieces were pocket watches, made for a jeweller – but that didn’t mean the big boys of the Swiss watch world weren’t taking notice. In 1932, Vacheron Constantin commissioned the independent watchmaker to build a version, the ref. 3372. Yet at this time pocket watches were already becoming a thing of the past and soon enough Cottier was called upon to downsize the complication to a wristwatch by, of course, Patek Philippe.

Those watches, realised in 1937, were the rectangular ref. 515 HU and ref. 96 HU in a Calatrava case. While the 515 didn’t see much beyond prototyping, the 96 HU went on to become one of the most collectible Patek Philippe watches in existence.

During this time Cottier was making watches for other brands, too. Alongside Vacheron and Patek, Cottier built world time watches for, amongst others, Rolex and Agassiz (which would become Longines), disseminating his design to the biggest players in the watch world and cementing the layout as the archetype it still is.

If Cottier’s story was to end there it would still be a miraculous contribution to watchmaking cannon. But in 1953 he did what nobody expected: he improved his own invention. Previously, the only way to adjust the 24-hour ring was using the local time which was simple but a little frustrating, especially if it went out in the latter half of the day. So, in 1953 Cottier added the ability to adjust the ring via a second crown.

It was a small change, but a significant one, directly leading to the methods we have today, including the jumping hour pusher that’s become a Patek Philippe mainstay. Indeed, between them Cottier and the watchmakers at Patek Philippe are responsible for everything we love about world timers. While the movement was indeed all Cottier, things like the enamelled maps on the dial that are often imitated by other watchmakers today were all Patek Philippe.

Today more collectors know about the early Patek Philippe world time models than the man who made them a reality. It is reassuring to know however that Cottier’s Carouge workshop is now a museum commemorating his contributions to watchmaking. So, if you ever find yourself there (don’t worry, it’s not too far from Geneva) it’s worth stopping by to appreciate why you can now tell the time in Tokyo, London and New York from a single glance at your wrist.

THE SPECS:

• 41.80mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• Brellum calibre BR-754 automatic movement with 46-hour power reserve

• £3,120, limited to 23 pieces, brellum.swiss

MICROBRAND CORNER

From inspired design to accessible haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrand watches

edited by: SAM KESSLER

Brellum

Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer

A GMT is the ideal companion complication for a pilots’ watch. Who else is going to be hopping across medians as often? At least, that’s the thinking behind the latest model from invariably handsome microbrand Brellum. Still, the Pilot LE.1 GMT isn’t just a typical aviation timepiece with an additional hand; it also comes equipped with a 12-hour chronograph for cockpit use and indeed the entire thing is modelled after cockpit instruments, with avionic touches across the board. It’s also chronometer certified making it (hopefully) as reliable as your instrument panel. It’s at the upper end of price for a microbrand release, but between the mechanics, aesthetics and solid build, it’s worth it. brellum.swiss

Méraud Antigua

A good watch takes time and, after three years of designing and anticipation, the Méraud Antigua has been worth the wait. The regatta timer isn’t just aesthetically inspired by sailing watches of the 1960s; the colourful chronograph dial and well-proportioned case house a genuine New Old Stock Landeron 248 calibre, a famous cam switching chronograph from the era. It’s elegant, quirky and if you happen to be a dab hand with a halyard, has a genuinely useful and all-too-rare complication. The only downside, as you might expect given the movement, is that the Antigua is a strict limited edition of just 200 pieces. meraud-watches.com

Circula

AquaSport GMT

It takes a firm hand to wrangle a good-looking GMT function into a professional dive watch. Evidently Circular have a good grip then because the latest expansion of their solid AquaSport range absolutely nails it. A combination of black and light blue with plenty of orange edging to their lume indexes and a central 24-hour scale, it manages to expand the diving functionality without sacrificing practical legibility. It also looks pretty damn good, too. Backed-up by a top-grade Sellita SW330-1 with 56-hour power reserve, the AquaSport GMT represents seriously good value from the Pforzheim-based brand. circulawatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Sellita SW330-1 automatic movement with 56-hour power reserve

• EUR 1299 (approx. £1,155), circulawatches.com

THE SPECS:

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance

• NOS Landeron 248 manual-wind movement with 41-hour power reserve

• EUR 1.750 (approx. £1,560), limited to 100 pieces per colourway, meraud-watches.com

Escudo

Ocean Seacrest Preto e Bronze

Another colourway of Escudo’s superb, exploration-focused diving watch, the latest version of the Ocean Seacrest is the most handsome yet. The Tudoresque combination of black, bronze and steel makes it an absolute stunner, especially given the unique aesthetic twist of the brand’s signature compass point indexes and flag-inspired 12 o’clock bezel marker. With 200m water resistance and the backing of a workhorse Sellita movement, it has all the ingredients for a great boat-to-bar option with a surprisingly accessible price tag.

escudo-watches.com

THE SPECS:

• 39mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance

• Escudo Calibre 1488 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve

• £1,600, limited to 300 pieces, escudo-watches.com

Von Doren

Il Tempo Gigante

Even amongst the growing grid of retro racing chronographs, the latest from Von Doren is at the front of the pack. Not only is it in a chunky case that feels glorious on the wrist, but the combination of brown, white and yellow on the dial (with plenty of blue glow in low light) leans heavily into the fun 1960s vibe. It’s equally solid inside, with a calibre from the ever more popular maestros at La Joux-Perret. While we can’t say we’ve seen The Pinchcliffe Grand Prix, the stop-motion film on which the watch is based, there’s a lot to love about the Il Tempo Gigante. vondoren.com

THE SPECS:

• 41mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance

• La Joux-Perret Calibre L112 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve

• €2,995 (approx. £2,670), limited to 577 pieces, vondoren.com

EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

IN FOCUS

THE BRAND THAT ISN’T AFRAID TO LOOK AT THINGS A LITTLE DIFFERENTLY, A WATCHMAKING LEGEND, AND AN ICONIC DESIGN FROM SWITZERLAND

Each of Botta Design’s watches has a distinctive look. The collection includes [clockwise from here] the CLAVIUS, UNO 24, and UNO Automatik; the UNO’s caseback

WORDS BY SAM KESSLER BOTTA DESIGN

The watch designer pondering the essential question of how we tell the time

How do you tell the time? Don’t worry, that’s not a trick question. It’s something most of us take for granted, that on a watch or clock you have three hands on a 12-hour dial. Most watchmaking is about working within that frame of reference, which is why no matter the complications or style, most watches are fundamentally the same.

Then, however, you get the disruptors, the designers that don’t just think first and foremost about making a fine watch, but how at its most essential, it even tells the time. Some of those disruptors do so with cutting edge haute horology out of reach of mere mortals; others, like Botta Design, take a different angle.

“I take the liberty of asking the question: ‘Is the current way of displaying the time of day on a 12-hour scale the most sensible one, or are there more logical ways of representing time?’” says the studio’s Anke Botta.

“An Earth day has 24 hours, not just 12,” he continues. “Accordingly, a truly sun-synchronous clock would also have to display 24 hours.”

That’s precisely what the TRES 24 does. At a glance it’s a watch like any other, a classic threehander with a particularly modern outlook. But in this case, it’s been slowed down to work with a 24-hour scale rather than the classic 12-hour, the display is split between light and dark as a striking take on the standard day/night indicator.

It’s amazing just how big an impact having a 24-hour watch makes compared to a 12-hour. It shows that there are plenty more hours in the day, lets you plan with your wrist a bit more and generally get the most out of the day. But of course, Botta has also pushed it further.

Let us ask you another question – how many hands does a watch need? The answer to that is a lot simpler: one. On any central-handed watch, both the hour and the minutes are on the same scale, meaning that if you can divide the space between each hour marker into 60, then you can use a single hand for both.

It’s a concept we’ve seen before – single-handed watches are a niche sub-genre unto themselves – but the UNO 24 (you can guess their naming scheme by now) is one of the clearest, cleanest and most contemporary versions we’ve come across. Again, it’s divided into day and night, just in case you’re stuck indoors or in a submarine at the bottom of the ocean.

Now, getting used to a one-hand to 24-hour ratio might not be for everyone, and to complete the

quartet of timepieces from Botta, they’ve naturally filled in the rest of the quadrants with the 12-hour variants, a little more familiar and closer to what we’ve been indoctrinated into familiarity with. That means we have the UNO and TRES, both displaying 12 hours with one and two hands respectively.

It’s a perfectly rounded set of watches, all with a distinctive look that, beyond their layouts and number of hands, is unmistakably Botta. It’s a roundness that also lends itself to plenty of variation. For example, the MONDO adds a GMT hand to the TRES, while the NOVA and CLAVIUS change the hands into rotating discs for a space-age minimalism.

Available in automatics or quartz, big, 45mm cases or svelte 40mm numbers and a healthy amount of titanium and sapphire crystal, there are more than enough variations within Botta’s quadrilogy of base designs to keep any wrist from getting bored.

My personal favourite is the three-disc NOVA, not just because of the single disc showing the time, but because of the combination of dark grey and black with a timekeeping lance of bright green. That’s double true of the DLC black edition.

Perhaps what we like most about the brand however, is that Botta Design has no pretence to haute horology. Where some designers try their best to create timekeeping systems as obtuse as possible, their approach is simple but inspired, the kind of concept you don’t need to explain but can instead intuit at a glance – if you’re just willing to change your outlook a little. Find out more at botta-design.de

WORDS BY MICHAEL SONSINO PHILIPPE DUFOUR

The quintessential independent watchmaker’s journey to become the greatest watchmaker of his generation

Philippe Dufour is a legend, and I’m not just talking about his watchmaking ability. I’m also talking about the fact that if you go to his website the first picture you see is one of him smoking a pipe pulled straight from an Arthur Conan Doyle short story while riding an electric mountain bike. In fact, pipes are as much a passion for Dufour as watches and he’s rarely pictured without one, even when operating the delicate machines in his workshop. If he ever agrees to be our Man of Influence in a future issue, we’ll have to ask him about it.

However, pipe collection to one side, the reason you should know about Dufour is that he’s arguably the preeminent watchmaker of our time. He is single-handedly responsible for developing and championing some of the most prestigious complications in wristwatches that have since become the crowning jewel in many haute horological collections. Namely, the Grande Sonnerie Minute Repeater and double balance wheel movement.

Getting to his current celebrated position was anything but an easy road though. At school he had a reputation for being smart and good with his hands but struggled with maths, which ruled out many of the higher academic paths he was considering. Instead, he turned towards a practical career in watchmaking where his precision and dexterity helped him through years of training.

There followed several years working for JaegerLeCoultre, Gérald Genta and Audemars Piguet earning valuable experience across the globe. However, he began to chafe under the oversight of large companies and executives who he considered to be out of touch with the art of watchmaking. He began using his spare time to develop new movements based on his favourite heritage designs from the time.

The first fruit of this experimentation was a brand-new Grande Sonnerie pocket watch movement. An octagon-obsessed giant of the luxury industry ordered five of the calibres to be fitted in their watches. Each movement took 2,000 hours to produce completely by hand, one per year.

According to Dufour, once he passed the movements to the client, in short order two of them were broken. Furious that two years of his life were disregarded in such fashion, he resolved never to work with an external watchmaker again and to embrace the independent life.

Now, he had to rely solely on his own skills to make a living. He was still fascinated by the idea of a Grande Sonnerie, but how could he push the

complication further than he already had? The answer was to create the world’s first wristwatch version. After two-and-a-half years of development he presented his creation, simply called the Grande Sonnerie, at Basel in 1992. The rest is independent watchmaking history. Until Dufour decided to make it again, of course.

The watchmaker’s next idea was inspired by an old watchmaking catalogue from the 1930s that depicted a pocket watch with a double balance wheel. The idea of boosting precision and accuracy was all the rage in the 1990s, tourbillons were flooding the market much to Dufour’s dismay since tourbillons are effectively useless in wristwatches (that’s a whole other story, elsewhere in these pages in fact). A double balance wheel wristwatch on the other hand, with its twin regulators, might actually provide the benefits a tourbillion is supposed to. And so the Philippe Dufour Duality was born in 1996.

After producing haute horological complications for decades in extremely limited quantities, Dufour wanted a change of pace. The Japanese market was one that interested him – nothing at all, of course, to do with the Philippe Dufour fan club in Tokyo. Japan was the natural home for Dufour’s watches thanks to shared ideals of handcraftsmanship and treasuring your possessions. In keeping with this ethos, he created the Simplicity, a three-hand watch that put perfect finishing first.

In 2013, Dufour’s reputation as a legend was cemented when he won the Special Jury Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), a jury he now serves on himself. However, by his own admission, his greatest pride is seeing his watches sell for CHF 4m+ at auction, thumbing his nose at all the brands who disvalued his work in years past. But hey, if anyone can get away with taking shots at the watch industry, it’s the independent, inimitable and legendary Philippe Dufour. Light up a pipe sir, you’ve earned it. Find out more at philippedufour.ch

[Left, top to bottom] The man, the legend – Philippe Dufour; Dafour’s Grand et Petit Sonnerie; [right] the Philippe Dufour Duality

Roger Dubuis

WORDS BY SAM KESSLER ROGER DUBUIS

The star-shaped bridge that has come to define the Swiss watchmaker

Many watchmakers have an icon in their line-up, be it something Genta-flavoured and sports-luxe like the Royal Oak or Nautilus or as archetypal as the Submariner or Carrera. They’re all integral parts of their creators’ histories, an instantly-recognisable part that’s shaped their identities.

Roger Dubuis however is the rare watchmaker that’s all but defined by its iconic contribution to horological canon. That might seem a tad reductive – the brand’s built plenty of different pieces in the past – but when there’s as much to a watch as there is the Excalibur, it’s anything but.

Originally conceived in 2005 (yes, it’s been around that long) the severe level of skeletonization and the resulting, instantly recognisable star-shaped bridges made for a show-stopper right out of the gate. The fact that its inauguration came with a double tourbillon and a minute repeater tourbillon likely had something to do with that, but more important were the seeds of what was to eventually shape the modern watchmaker.

At the time, Roger Dubuis had a solid number of collections under its name, including the eponymous collection of much more classical pieces. They were all impressive, but, honestly, a touch confused when taken as a whole. So it didn’t come as too big a surprise when, by the mid-2010s, the Genevan watchmaker opted to focus almost entirely on the Excalibur. Which probably drove the finishing department to the brink of insanity.

It wasn’t just a case of focusing on a single collection; the Excalibur was incredibly demanding both technically (as mentioned earlier it was no stranger to a high complication or three) and to finish. Straight bridges are more than a pain to polish and the Excalibur’s signature style is all straight lines. It feels designed to frustrate one particular department, especially when the Poinçon de Genève, the ultimate award in Swiss finishing, was on the line.

Still Roger Dubuis went full steam ahead, re-centring its entire personality to reflect the Excalibur: bold, extreme and ultra-modern. And it did well for them. Very well, in fact. But no icon can survive without moving with the times. That includes the Excalibur and, back in 2021 Roger Dubuis took the chance to evolve its flagship.

The evolution was kickstarted with the Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon, which introduced a new element to the movement – the star as decoration. Where previously it had been functional, here it was turned into an architectural marvel, floating

above the barrel. This technical change coincided with a revamp of the movement as a whole, which now boasted a 72-hour power reserve, a serious feat for a double tourbillon, thanks to lighter cages made from titanium. It wouldn’t be the last time Roger Dubuis would successfully experiment with materials.

The stylistic overhaul was pushed further with the Single Flying Tourbillon a few months later, which streamlined the entire look of the watch. It was thinner, with more space in the movement, both of which served to show off the clean lines and focus on the strong visual identity of the Excalibur star. You could tell at a glance that this was a watch worthy of the Poinçon de Genève.

Roger Dubuis had also thought about comfort. Where previous models were generally huge, the Single Flying Tourbillon was available in 42mm and in a lightweight titanium case. It was visually as subtle as ever – meaning not – but it didn’t compromise on wearability to get there – and last year the Excalibur saw what might well be its final form in that sense.

2022’s Excalibur Monobalancier was a micro-rotor equipped automatic version of the Excalibur DNA, further streamlined, even more wearable and with ever more innovative horological tech funnelled into its creation. The star still floats freely, but underneath the movement includes a new diamond-coated silicon escapement, greater shock resistance, better energy transmission and, of course, finishing worth of the Poinçon de Genève.

With Watches and Wonders once again on the horizon, there’s no doubt that Roger Dubuis will be showing off some intense new take on the Excalibur. The two are, after all, inextricably linked. Just as the watchmaker built the timepiece, so too has it moulded its particular approach to watchmaking. There’s also no doubt that whatever Roger Dubuis decides to show off, it’ll be pretty damn impressive. It’s written in the star. Find out more at rogerdubuis.com

[Left, top to bottom] The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Black Ceramic; Excalibur MB; [right] Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon

RECOMMENDS

AXIA TIME – SOFIA II

The Sofia II from Axia Time walks the thin aesthetic line between elegant and sporty, proving that titanium works just as well on a more classical watch as it does on an adventure-ready field watch. The tiered blue or black dial is understated, but with lume-filled indexes and a colour-matched date wheel, plus a circular brushed finish, it shines in the details. It houses the Sellita SW360 Elaboré movement with 42-hour power reserve. It’s also offered on a pair of straps, alligator or NATO. $795 (approx. £650), available from axiatime.com

MÖELS & CO. – 528

SCHAUMBURG – GNOMONIK BLACK & WHITE & RED

Schaumburg’s absolutely insane masterpieces, from collections like the Gnomonik and others, are what make headlines for the brand, exploring individual watchmaking concepts distilled to their purest form. The Gnomonik is a single-hand watch with a pitch-black dial, a vibrant red hand and white numerals and scales. It references heritage clockmaking in which it was common for timepieces to have a single hand, but gives the concept a modern twist through a limited colour palette and minimalist aesthetic, showcasing a completely other side to the brand that’s really attractive. €978.99 (approx. £870), available from schaumburgwatch.com

The Möels & Co. 528 is an award-winning watch for good reason. Designed by 21-year-old Betina Menescal, it features an unusual TV-shaped case design in stainless steel with an asymmetrical display inspired by the golden ratio. It rides the line between dress and sports watch thanks to its refined aesthetic, influenced by mid-century design and surprisingly robust 100m water resistance and large 45mm x 33mm proportions. Ultimately, that makes it ideal for virtually all occasions. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200-1 movement. £946, available from moelsandco.com

DAY & NIGHT – THE DJOSER

Day & Night’s collection of watches bear the names of iconic pharaohs and kings from history such as Xerxes, Thutmoses and Djoser, inspired by their dramatic impact on global history. The watches feel similarly impactful. The Djoser, with its 42mm rose gold coloured stainless steel case and bold octagonal bezel draws on a similar design language to iconic heritage watch designs from brands like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, while maintaining a far more accessible price point. Plus, the combination of rich blue and gold across the dial is particularly striking, backed by a practical Miyota quartz movement. $179 (approx. £145), available from dayandnightwatches.com

Wolkov – W22 Onyx

Wolkov is a brand that first made a name for itself in 2018 with its revolutionary modular, snapping lug design that made it easier than ever to change your watch strap on a whim. The W22 follows this principle and is available in three colourways, this is the Onyx variant. The concept behind the W22 was to create a striking and unique shape that stands out from competitors. Hence, the highly original oval case in high gloss stainless steel and the distinctive dial display that has a central hour scale and peripheral minute track. $950 (approx. £790), available from wolkov.design

Jean Rousseau – Watch Roll Vintage Calf Gold

French maison Jean Rousseau is bestknown for its watch straps but the house’s skills extend to a huge range of leather goods. Jean Rousseau’s watch rolls are made to order and produced by hand in a variety of styles and colours. This is the Vintage Calf Gold version, which has the rich golden-brown colour of worn leather matched with a dark brown interior that protects the watch held within. It’s fastened with a simple buckle for secure containment and ease of use.

£320, available from jean-rousseau.com

HIRSCH – BAGNORE

Swiss Kubik –Masterbox Couture

Swiss Kubik has been producing high-end watch winders for over ten years and has mastered the art of combining style with function. The brand’s designs are unapologetically bold, intended to stand out in a room and showcase the watches contained within. The Masterbox Couture combines the signature cube shape winder with a leather exterior, providing a sumptuous finish. It can be operated via either a direct power supply or batteries, giving you transport options.

£955, available from swisskubik.com

SCATOLA DEL TEMPO – ROTOR ONE RED

Scatola del Tempo’s watch winders offer the traditional utility of a winder – keeping your automatic watches topped up on power reserve while you’re not wearing them and preventing the mechanics becoming damaged from staying in one orientation – in a compact and stylish form. With a soft leather exterior, it’s both pretty to look at and soft to the touch. It’s powered solely by batteries with an autonomy of three years.

£530, available from scatoladeltempo.com

Hirsch is an Austrian watch strap maker that has been operating since 1945, during which time it has been under the continuous stewardship of the Hirsch family. Their long heritage has allowed them to develop an excellent reputation and much experience in producing high quality straps. The Bagnore vintage brown calf strap, launched just last month, is a prime example of their work. Named after a town in Tuscany, it’s made entirely from vegetable tanned calf leather providing exceptional texture and suppleness. It’s finished with retro cut edges and a triple hand-sewn decorative bar seam for a strong vintage aesthetic.

£79.95, available from hirschthebracelet.com

MODALO – TIMELESS MV4

Depending how you look at it, keeping your entire watch collection wound and at the ready is either a daily ritual or a chore. And if you view it as a chore then Modalo is here to help with the Timeless MV4. A dark mix of macassar ebony and sleek, glossy black, the winder can hold four automatic watches in a manner to which they can quickly become accustomed. There’s also space for two additional watches hidden under the wooden front panel.

€1,007.56, available from modalo.com

CROCKETT & JONES – CONISTON

The Coniston is a derby boot from Crockett & Jones with a straight toe cap, produced in dark brown rough-out suede. It’s designed to weather the worst that the outdoors can throw at you with a thick Dainite rubber sole with storm welt. It’s the ideal boot for the last days of winter weather and will transition well to early spring when Britain will be mildly warmer but just as wet. £450, available from crockettandjones.com

Berluti – Playtime Scritto Leather Sneaker

The Playtime Scritto Leather Sneaker from Berluti is a low-top sneaker in grey with a decorative ‘scritto’ design. The grey body is made from Venezia calf leather on top of a white sole with additional padding and lining also in white. It’s a mix of stylish, decorative design and comfortable footwear ideal for enjoying early spring holidays abroad. £1,190, available from berluti.com

SUNSPEL – RIVIERA POLO

The Sunspel Riviera Polo is a staple of men’s fashion, first popularised by its appearance in Casio Royale on the back of Daniel Craig’s 007. For the 2023 Spring Collection, the shirt is now available in pastel blue mirroring the pale tone of the sky. It’s as light and summery as you could wish with a cotton mesh fabric that’s soft and breathable. There’s a reason it’s Bond’s go-to. £125, available from sunspel.com

Lebarde – Natural Eye Cream Gold Bee

Lebarde is a natural cosmetics company from the Colchis region of Georgia, which has traditions of cosmetic production dating back all the way to ancient myths. The primary ingredients of its Natural Eye Cream Gold Bee are honey and florals from the Caucasus mountains. Its combination of vitamins A and C alongside natural compounds provides protective and rejuvenation properties for your skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines. £79.99, lebarde.co.uk

ISTO. – DENIM BLUE

ISTO. is a Portuguese fashion label committed to transparent and sustainable fashion, which is why it wanted to tackle that everyday staple, denim jeans. Unbeknownst to many, jeans are one of the most polluting articles of clothing due to the use of chemicals and artificial fibres in their production. As such, ISTO. underwent an extensive development period with Italian denim manufacture Candiani to reduce the amount of chemicals involved while retaining the signature look and feel of the material. The result is a classic yet contemporary jean with a sustainable outlook. £145, available from isto.pt

Montblanc x Ferrari – Montblanc Ferrari Stilema SP3

Montblanc’s latest collaboration with Ferrari stands out from the brand’s usual writing implements because of the material its cap and barrel are made of, namely, titanium. It’s inspired by the Ferrari Daytona SP3 with the angle of the cap top and lined accents mirroring aspects of the car’s nose and bumper. Beneath the titanium surface is a white gold nib and a newly developed ink filling system that utilises the red blade at the end of the implement. Limited to 599 pieces, learn more at ferrari.com

MARANTZ – TT-15S1 TURNTABLE

The Marantz TT-15S1 Turntable combines excellent sound quality with a design that’s incredibly stylish in white frosted acrylic. The chassis has low resonance properties that are further dampened by the use of a floating motor to prevent vibrations, meaning there’s as little interference with the sound quality as possible. It’s the ultimate fusion of audio and visual delights.

£2,100, available from marantz.com

SIMBA - GO HYBRID MATTRESS

Simba is known for its hybrid mattresses that balance comfort with support in an effortless fashion. With the GO Hybrid, the brand has turned its focus towards sustainability, using 100% recycled and organic materials as well as implementing carbon neutral delivery systems. All of which contribute to halving the carbon footprint of the GO compared to regular Hybrids. Plus, with the 200-night guarantee, there’s no risk involved if you don’t fall in love with it immediately.

£2,399, available from simbasleep.com

MCINTOSH – MC451

McIntosh was founded in 1949 with the aim of creating high-end home audio systems that provide a comprehensive sound experience for films or music. The MC451 is a dual mono amplifier designed to work in tandem with a bi-amping loudspeaker to increase performance to insane levels. Crucially, it has a relatively compact design making it easy to integrate into home systems, perfect for listening rooms of any size or tucked beneath the TV. Learn more at mcintoshlabs.com

Sonus Faber –SerafinoHomage

The Sonus Faber Homage is an awardwinning collection of speakers reimagined for the modern age with fresh designs. The Serafino is a sleek black design made from nine layers of wood with artisanal craftsmanship meets cutting edge audio technology in the form of a D.A.D Tweeter, InTono loudspeakers and Generation 2° woofers. Learn more at sonusfaber.com

by MICHAEL SONSINO

OSCARSWATCH

What’s on the wrists of the leading men this awards season?

The Oscars 2023 is set to take place on 12th March and while we aren’t prescient enough to know who is going to take home the big prize or which celebrity will slap another – we’re Oracle Time, not Oracle Oscars – what we can do is take a look at the watch collections of three of the nominees.

Austin Butler – Elvis

The Presley family has been in the news quite a lot recently due to tragedy, will scandals and auctioned jet planes. While that’s all been a drama in itself, it’s actor Austin Butler who’s up for the Oscar for his portrayal of Elvis in Baz Luhrmann’s biographical movie. The film follows in the well-trod path of movies

such as Rocket Man and Bohemian Rhapsody but turns things up to 11. It’s everything you could want from Luhrmann’s take on The King.

On Austin Butler’s wrist you can usually see the Cartier Tank Must. The Tank is one of the most enduring stylish watches around and a classic choice on red carpets across the world. Interestingly, many celebrities who wear Cartier lean towards the broader Santos, but Butler shows that slimming things down can work fantastically.

Brendan Fraser – The Whale

The Brenaissance is upon us – an affectionate term coined by the internet for the revitalisation of, and renewed interest in, Brandan Fraser. The movie responsible for the return of this heartthrob of a bygone era of filmmaking is The Whale , and we’re sure you’ve heard about it. No? In short, it’s the tale of an obese English teacher who tries to reconnect with his estranged daughter – the kind of thing the Oscars loves.

Fraser’s watch of choice is a gem, the Omega De Ville Prestige. Sure, Omega is a household name but if it’s not a Speedy or a Seamaster, it’s not that often you see one on male celebrity wrists. The De Ville Prestige has a sweeping round case with a gloriously understated dial featuring Roman numerals and simple bar indexes. Class and elegance at its finest.

Paul Mescal – Aftersun

Aftersun is a beautifully shot film looking at the strained relationship between a father, played by Paul Mescal, and his daughter, which is evidently a theme that’s resonating with the Academy this year. The movie is set on a summer holiday taken in Turkey and explores topics of depression, financial struggle and detachment as seen through the lens of a child on the edge of adolescence.

Mescal, like Butler, is a Cartier kind of guy, although he’s been seen in the full gamut of Cartier designs. The Tank Chinoise, the Santos, the Cloche and even the Pasha de Cartier Grille. It’s nice to see the full breadth of Cartier’s diverse collections get some love.