ITALY AND GERMANY
ORDER JUN 4 - JUL 7, 2025




ORDER JUN 4 - JUL 7, 2025
The Wine People company was born when two Italian wine industry veterans, Stefano Girelli and Peter Kosten, decided to use their combined 60 years of experience to create a venture that offers a quality one-stop wine shop for all-things-Italy with a strong sustainability and organic focus. While many of their wines are certified organic, Girelli and Kosten go beyond certifications by abandoning any form of chemical intervention in all their vineyards. The company now offers wines from six key regions of Italy – from Friuli and Veneto in the north to Sicily and Puglia in the south – made by the team that shares the same ethos of quality and care for the lands that they work.
CARLOMAGNO PRIMITIVO IS A MUST-HAVE IN ANY CELLAR
The wine offers a deep ruby, opaque hue and medium-intensity aromas of prune reduction, honey, chocolate, carnation and peony, chokeberry, lard and dried black olive. Near dry and with a low but adequate acidity, it is medium-framed – extract, finetextured tannins and body – with a lovely cushy and coating presence and persistent flavours of prune reduction, flowers, dried pear, chocolate, chokeberry, bitter chocolate, lard and black olive leading to a medium-plus long finish. Shows really nice poise and has presence and elegance for a big wine. 2026-2028 – ir
By Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Managing Directors
When it comes to European wine, two countries stand out not only for their historical significance but also for the exceptional diversity and quality of their wines: Italy and Germany. While both share a deep-rooted winemaking tradition, their approaches, grape varieties, and styles couldn't be more distinct. Yet, both offer a rich tapestry of flavours that captivate wine lovers worldwide. The contrast between Italy’s sun-drenched vineyards and Germany’s cool-climate, high-altitude terroirs creates a compelling journey for wine enthusiasts.
In this Cellar, we celebrate both. For most Opimians, Gerd Stepp needs no introduction. Our valued partner from the Pfalz in Germany—featured on the cover—has been delighting Members’ palates for years. Turn the page, and you'll find a quintessential Appassimento from our friends in Puglia.
As always, you’ll discover dozens of choices in a myriad of styles, with options at every price point for any drinking occasion. Whether you’re sipping a crisp Pinot Grigio from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a Corvina blend from Monte Castelon in Veneto, or a delicate Riesling from the Pfalz, Italy and Germany together remind us that wine is more than just a drink—it’s an experience, a journey through time, culture, and place. As we continue to explore the wines of these two
incredible nations, we are reminded of the beauty found in contrast and the endless possibilities that arise when history, tradition, and innovation come together in a glass.
One more thing! If you’re a Nebbiolo fan, we have a treat for you—be sure to check out the Collectors’ Corner on pages 30 & 31 for the best of the best.
Cheers to Italy and Germany—two countries united by their love for the vine, yet with wines that tell distinct, yet equally compelling, stories.
Let yourself be inspired by Opimian’s Masters of Wine. Our custom chart features a list of symbols to help guide your selection. Still unsure which wines to order? Contact us!
There are three ways to order. The last day to order for each Cellar Offering can be found listed on the cover. No orders will be processed after this time.
The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side.
Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.
Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location. Let us handle the rest.
British Columbia and Ontario members, your wine will be delivered to your door.
Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.
Toronto-based Igor Ryjenkov MW was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential in 2003. His wine business expertise has been informed by 24 year in the Ontario trade, first in retail, then in key buying positions, and lastly, in projects, most notably, developing the new 5-dot wine style matrix.
The Pfalz is Germany’s second-largest wine region, lying between the Rhine River and the Haardt Mountains. It is most famous for rich, ripe and textural Rieslings but also produces great Pinot Noir and aromatic whites. Gerd Stepp grew up in Bad Dürkheim working in his family’s vineyards from a young age. His winemaking journey took him across New Zealand, Africa, Italy and the UK – experiences that shaped his approach to viticulture. Back in the Pfalz, he now crafts wines with a modern approach yet minimal intervention. His single vineyard bottlings are a testament to the diverse, high-quality range of individual terroirs across the region.
5553
STEPP RIESLING HONIGSACK (HERXHEIMER), PFALZ, SINGLE CRU, 2024
A firm, structured Riesling with a textural, medium-bodied profile. Restrained floral and stone-fruit notes lead into layers of green citrus, savoury herbs and a deep mineral core. Bracing acidity and precision define the style, promising good moderateterm ageability. Excellent value for its clarity and structure. 2026-2033 –jb
STEPP
$ 29 $ 174
While better known for its Riesling, the warm, sunny Pfalz region also produces excellent Pinot varieties. This mixed white wine case is really interesting: Stepp Pinot Blanc is a nervy, mineral-laced wine that is a serious step up from your usual crisp, dry apéritif whites; the Pinot Gris a richer, juicier wine with vibrant flavours and a lovely texture.
Light, precise and full of energy with restrained white floral and citrus aromas giving way to more vibrant citrus, yellow pear and white pepper on the palate. Finishes dry with lingering salinity. Bright and lifted with great tension and refreshing minerality. Drink now or hold for a few years. 2026-2029–jb
Silky and juicy with a satiny texture and vibrant freshness. The nose is initially subdued but gains in fruity, spiced and savoury intensity with aeration. This is a Pinot Gris wine style with its mediumbodied, rounded structure and lively fruit character. Nicely balanced and very easy drinking. 2026-2029–jb
A VIBRANT DUO FROM PFALZ—CRISP, MINERAL PINOT BLANC MEETS SILKY, JUICY PINOT GRIS
5555 STEPP SAUVIGNON BLANC, PFALZ, 2024
Sauvignon Blanc
A bright and brash Sauvignon Blanc bursting with intense leafy and citrus aromas, backed by tropical hints on the palate. Piercing acidity drives its electric, lifted style, echoing the boldness of New Zealand expressions. Light bodied yet expressive, it delivers a zesty, mouthwatering finish. A musttry for fans of overt, aromatic Sauvignon. 2026-2029–jb
5556 STEPP GEWÜRZTRAMINER, PFALZ, 2024
Gewürztraminer
Classic Gewürztraminer aromas of tropical fruit, florals and exotic spice lead into a juicy, fresh palate. Peach and spice shine with a fine phenolic grip that frames the fruit nicely. Medium-bodied with a lively, textural finish. Quite a dry style with all elements in balance. 2026-2029 –jb
5557 STEPP PINOT NOIR ROSÉ, PFALZ, 2024
Noir
29 $ 174
Lively and refreshing rosé with a vibrant, easy-drinking character. While the trend in Provençal rosé favours a pale pink hue and subtle, delicate aromas, this medium-bodied wine stands out with its bold, flavourful profile – perfect for sipping on its own or paired with food. Ideal for summer, yet versatile enough to enjoy yearround. 2026-2027–jb
A summer sipper on its own
5558
STEPP RIESLING SINGLE CRU CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH
$ 36 $ 216
This mixed case is a must-buy for Riesling lovers, showcasing two exceptional single-vineyard crus from the Pfalz region. Kallstadter Saumagen, with its loess-loam and shelllimestone soils, is rated as one of Germany’s great Riesling sites. Fuchsmantel, a classic terraced vineyard in Bad Dürkheim, is equally interesting with its sandstone and loam-loess soils producing Rieslings with depth, minerality and distinct terroir expression.
RIESLING
Riesling
This 2024 vintage cru “Vom Saumagen” Riesling offers an appealing floral and mineral-driven approach. A firm, textured palate balances ripe fruit with racy acidity while stony, saline notes add interest. Bright and precise with a long, lifted finish, it displays both elegance and energy. A refined expression of Saumagen’s distinctive terroir. 2026-2032–jb
Riesling
The 2024 cru “Vom Fuchsmantel” Riesling has great earthy and mineral intensity on the nose backed by tangy green citrus and subtle stone-fruit nuances. The palate is broad and structured with racy acidity lifting and lengthening the whole with a pleasant grippy phenolic touch framing the finish. Nice balance between power and finesse. Good moderate-term ageability. 2026-2032–jb
Smoked whitefish rillettes with toast points
DISCOVER THE BOLD SIDE OF GERMAN REDS
A pretty Pinot Noir blended across Stepp’s Pfalz vineyards: this is a great entry wine to showcase Stepp’s mastery with the grape. Fragrant red and black fruit intertwine with brambly, earthy notes on the nose. The palate is fleshy and medium bodied with vibrant, juicy acidity, vivid fruit flavours and a subtly minty note that brings extra refreshment on the finish. Already approachable with fine tannins. 2026-2032–jb
5560
STEPP CABERNET FRANC RESERVE, PFALZ, 2023
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is a bit of an outlier from the Pfalz, but this cuvée proves how good it can be. Full bodied, quite firm and sinewy, the 2023 vintage has classic tangy red fruit, ripe bell pepper and graphite aromas. Those same lively fruit flavours are backed by bright herbal and cocoa notes giving way to firm, structuring tannins. 2026-2033 – ir
Grilled
STEPP PINOT NOIR RÉSERVE HERXHEIM AM BERG, PFALZ, SINGLE CRU, 2023
5561 STEPP PINOT NOIR SINGLE CRU CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH
The Pfalz is an exciting region for Pinot Noir. This mixed case is a fantastic opportunity to discover two top-quality expressions. The Herxheimer Himmelreich vineyard, with its sun-drenched sandstone slopes, brings depth and vibrancy. The Herxheim Am Berg Réserve cuvée comes from a single vineyard within this site: the historic Kirschgarten vineyard. It benefits from a warm, sheltered terroir, enhancing its richness and intensity.
STEPP PINOT NOIR HIMMELREICH (HERXHEIMER), PFALZ, SINGLE CRU, 2023
A full-bodied, plush style of Pinot Noir with lots of ripe red fruit, baking spice and subtle oaked nuances. The palate is rich and warming with mocha and spice complementing the juicy red fruit. Fresh acidity and fine tannins provide good moderate term ageability, while its silky texture makes it approachable now. 2026-2032–jb
Bright and structured, this full-bodied Pinot Noir opens with tangy red and dark fruit, complemented by spiced and herbal nuances. The brisk acidity and firm yet fine tannins create a refined tension leading to a long, firm finish. Needs a little time to soften and harmonize further. Very elegant. 2027-2033 –jb
Slow-braised goulash with dumplings
By Michael Palij, MW
If anyone is stunned by Prosecco’s seemingly unstoppable rise in popularity, no one is more bewildered than the producers themselves. As little as 20 years ago, an air of desperation hung over their vineyards. Production costs were high (mainly labour), yet prices remained stubbornly low with the vast majority destined to ride shotgun with cheap peach purée in a slew of Venice tourist traps. My, how times have changed.
Today, almost half a billion bottles of the stuff find their way around the world. It’s a truly staggering figure and, as sales boomed, it is fair to say that standards slipped. In order to meet overwhelming demand, legislative changes in 2009 upgraded a vast swathe of vineyards from IGT to DOC and simultaneously re-christened the grape as ‘Glera’ in an attempt to eliminate production of copy-cat versions. Right on trend, rosé Prosecco was officially granted DOC status in 2020.
At its best, rosé Prosecco is a delight. Glera’s aromas of apple and pear match well with the strawberry and rhubarb of Pinot. Most versions are usefully drier (the maximum residual sugar is 17 g/L) and on a hot summer’s day it slips down a treat. Regulations, however, remain as relaxed as an Italian suit. 10-15% of the final wine must comprise Pinot Noir grown in the same regions of production. It must be 2019 vintage or younger. The red and white components can be blended in the cellar and it must be aged on its lees for 60 days before release. So far so innocuous, but two big question marks remain.
The first is the sheer scale of the DOC. Prosecco can be made from grapes grown anywhere in both the Veneto (except Verona) and Friuli, a combined vineyard area of nearly 200,000 acres. It is unimaginable that the soil and climate could be remotely consistent across a region so vast. The second concern is yields – current legislation permits 135 hl/ha. Compare this with Grand Cru Burgundy at just 35 hl/ha. Inevitably quality will suffer when the vine is allowed to crop at such excessive levels.
For lovers of quality sparkling wines, however, help is at hand. The original DOC in 1969 limited production to 15 communes in the townships of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano. By the 19th century the steep slopes and marl soils formed by the river Piave were already famous. To this day, Prosecco from this tiny sub-zone is entitled to a subtle – but crucially important - labelling variant: Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Although rosé Prosecco does not yet allow for a DOCG version, it is well worth searching out producers whose white Prosecco merits this higher designation.
Editor's Note: Back from our cellar archives, this article was first published in Cellar 286.
OUR MASTERS OF WINE'S FAVOURITE WINES IN THIS CELLAR
Prosecco is Italy’s most famous sparkling wine, made from the native Glera grape. Its light, frothy bubbles come from a secondary fermentation in large tanks, rather than in bottle (as per the traditional method used for Champagne, Cava, and Crémant wines). This process preserves fresh, fruity, floral aromas and a lightness in the wines. Quality tiers range from simple Prosecco DOC to the more refined Prosecco Superiore DOCG from the historic growing regions of ConeglianoValdobbiadene and Asolo. The finest wines come from steep hillside vineyards, yielding more concentrated flavours. Prosecco wines range from bone dry to subtly off dry.
The Asolo territory is considered a superior growing area for the Prosecco grape Glera. Its vineyards spread over the Montello and Asolo Hills in the Treviso province of the Veneto. This ’84 cuvée has pretty floral and appley aromas that echo on the soft, smooth palate. This is light, lithe, supple bubbly made for early drinking. 2025-2026 –jb
ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE, EXTRA DRY, PROSECCO SUPERIORE/ZUCCHETTO BACCARAT, EXTRA BRUT, ROSATO PROSECCO TREVISO CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH
LEARN MORE ABOUT ZUCCHETTO 5567
NOT SURE WHICH ONE TO PICK? GET BOTH IN ONE MIXED CASE WITH LOT 5567
Zucchetto is a family-run Prosecco producer based in Valdobbiadene, the heart of Prosecco Superiore DOCG. With deep roots in the region, they focus on hillside vineyards, where Glera grapes develop intense aromas and freshness. Using sustainable practices and meticulous vineyard management, Zucchetto crafts elegant, terroir-driven sparkling wines. Their range includes classic Brut styles and limited-production Rive selections from special hillside sites. Expect fresh acidity, fine bubbles and vibrant flavours of green apple, pear, citrus and white flowers. Dedicated to quality and tradition, Zucchetto embodies the essence of high-end Prosecco – refined, expressive and true to its origins.
5565
ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE, EXTRA DRY, PROSECCO SUPERIORE, DOCG, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2024
Glera
Confusingly, the Extra Dry category of sparkling wines actually designates a very subtly sweet finish. Don’t let this put you off though, as this low level of sugar gives a rounded, fruity character rather than overt sweetness. The Paolo Zucchetto, from the Superiore vineyards of Conegliano, has pleasant citrussy, floral, stone-fruit nuances and a balanced, smooth, juicy palate. 2026-2027–jb
5566
Minestrone soup
ZUCCHETTO BACCARAT, EXTRA BRUT, ROSATO PROSECCO, DOC TREVISO, PAOLO ZUCCHETTO, 2024
Glera, Pinot Noir
Rosé is still a relatively new addition to the Prosecco appellation. It is made by adding a small percentage of Pinot Noir to the white Glera grapes. These pink Prosecco wines have met with immediate success for their easy-drinking, poolside charm. This light, dry “Baccarat” cuvée is brimming with lively red fruit and citrus notes, lifted by smooth, soft bubbles. 2025-2026 –jb
11.5%
Raspberry, red apple, floral hints
Lemon, red berries, red apple, [4.50]
Caprese salad
Malvasia is a widely grown white wine grape throughout Italy. This medium-bodied, textural 2024 vintage has herbal, floral and apple notes, giving way to a riper, more intense fruit profile on the palate. Crisp acidity gives a nice lift to the flavours. Finishes round and smooth. 2026-2029–jb
The little-known Nero di Troia grape gives bold, dark-fruited wines in Puglia. This 2024 regional blend is a weighty red wine with jammy black fruit balanced by juicy acidity and refreshing hints of mint and dark chocolate. Smooth, medium-weight tannins give this simple, everyday wine good drinkability. 2026-2029–jb
Red wines made from the Negroamaro grape are known for their dense, structured nature. This is a typical such wine with its full body, firm, grippy tannins and inky dark colour. Sweet-fruited notes mingle with overt woody aromas on the nose. Finishes with lingering sweetness, alongside espresso, mocha notes. 2026-2029–jb
5582
GRECO, CAMPANIA IGP, 2024
Fiano, Falanghina, Greco di Tufo
A medium lemon-yellow pour here. The nose shows a medium-intensity set of elements: savoury/bouillony, dandelion flower and milk, flint, olive oil and yellow plum. The palate is dry, has a medium acidity, a medium extract, a medium texture and a medium body with lovely length and fruit intensity of thistle, dandelion blossom and milk, pencil shavings, grapefruit pith and dried yellow pear, with a medium finish. 2026-2027–ir
Verdeca
bouillon, dandelion flower and milk, flint, olive oil and yellow plum
Thistle, dandelion blossom and milk, pencil shavings, grapefruit pith, dried yellow pear, [5.00]
Fettuccine all’Alfredo
A local late-ripening variety that manages to keep its fresh acidity in Puglian heat. A medium lemon-yellow in appearance, it leads with medium-intensity notes of quince, lemon pith, aloe, lees, batter and flint. That fresh, medium-plus acidity comes through on a dry palate, followed by a medium extract, a soft texture, a medium body and a medium-plus length and the same persistence of lemon pith, quince, yellow plum, aloe and batter flavours, and a medium finish. 2026-2027– ir
WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK
5584 PIANEROSSE SUSUMANIELLO ROSATO PUGLIA IGP, 2024
Made from a very local grape, it offers an attractive, light ruby-pink colour and light intensity hints of raspberry, red plum and red pear. Dry, with a medium acidity, it shows a medium extract, a medium texture and a medium body with the replay of the aromas: hints of red plum, red pear and red berries towards a medium finish. Would work best well-chilled. 2026-2027– ir
Roasted herbed pheasant with sausages and polenta
Cabernet Sauvignon
Just a touch of oak here, with 10% of the wine barrel-aged for several months. It is deep purple, opaque in the glass. The nose greets with a medium intensity, textbook cool-climate Cab aromas of cedar, bell pepper with leaf and stalk, cassis leaf, then tar and cream. The dry palate follows with a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium fine medium-textured tannins, a medium body and lovely length and persistence of black plum/skins, grilled bell pepper, cedar, tar, cassis leaf and cream cheese elements. Closes with a medium-plus finish. A compact mouthfeel but quite nice, well made and good value. 2026-2028 – ir
An intensely floral, deep-hued Primitivo with an equally intense personality on the palate. Brisk acidity is joined by heady notes of dark fruit and lavender candy. Very firm with marked tannins and some sweetness on the finish. Needs a hearty food pairing. 2026-2030 –jb
Another weighty and fragrant Primitivo, this time from the Primitivo di Manduria denomination which stretches eastwards from Taranto town along the Gulf of Taranto coast. Here rich, raisined fruit is accompanied by herbal notes. The palate is fresh and full bodied with reasonably well-balanced sweetness on the finish. 2026-2029–jb
GIALLA, VENEZIA GIULIA IGT, 2024
A medium lemon-yellow pour. The nose offers a nice set of medium-intensity aromas of quince preserve, pencil lead, yellow apple butter, yellow plum, lees and aloe. The palate is dry and has a medium acidity, a medium extract, a medium texture and a medium body with lovely presence and flavours of quince preserve, yellow apple butter, aloe, lees and pencil lead with a medium finish. A fulsome style and well made. 2026-2027– ir
The wine features a medium lemon-yellow appearance and medium-intensity notes of quince, starfruit, batter, goldenrod and aloe. There is a medium acidity on a dry palate, a medium extract, a soft texture and a medium body with a nice length and attractive flavours of starfruit, yellow pear and apple, goldenrod and aloe and a nice coating presence towards a medium finish. 2026-2027– ir
WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK
5589
SALARIIS FRIULANO/PINOT GRIGIO/RIBOLLA GIALLA CASE: 4 BOTTLES EACH
22 $ 264
SALARIIS CAPTURES FRIULI’S FINESSE
The wine shows a medium lemon-yellow appearance and attractive medium-intensity aromatic range of goldenrod, yellow apple butter, yellow plum, quince and dried yellow pear. Dry, the palate carries the theme with a medium acidity, a medium extract, a medium texture, a medium body, a nice length and pretty, fragrant notes of goldenrod, yellow pear nectar, yellow apple butter and aloe before a medium-plus finish. 2026-2027– ir
By Igor Ryjenkov, MW
The province of Veneto stretches westward from the exquisite, canal-riddled city of Venice to the romantic setting of Romeo and Juliet’s Verona and the stunning Lake Garda, reaching Austria in the north between Alto Adige and Friuli. Several well-known wines come from this region—such as Soave and Prosecco—but it’s Valpolicella’s Amarone, part of the constellation of Italy’s most recognizable red wines, that shines the brightest.
Winemaking in the Valpolicella zone, a compact east-west strip above Verona, dates back to the ancient Greeks, including the tradition of making wine from dried grapes. The name Valpolicella appeared in records as early as the 12th century. The region was granted DOC status in 1968, which led to an expansion of the production zone into fertile plains far beyond its historic boundaries. The vast majority of Valpolicella wines are blends of local red grapes—Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella— with Corvina playing the dominant role (up to 80%), alongside occasional additions of other varieties, such as the revived Oseleta or the now rarer Molinara.
For the past several decades, Amarone and Ripasso styles have dominated consumer interest, but they only received their respective DOCG/DOC designations in 2009. The tradition of drying grapes for winemaking did not survive continuously from ancient times but was reintroduced on a large scale only in the 1950s. Amarone evolved from Recioto, a sweet wine made from dried grapes, which was historically produced in small quantities for special occasions. Initially, the term "Amarone" referred to a Recioto that had fully fermented, resulting in a dry wine instead of a naturally sweet one. Over time, Amarone developed into its own distinct style. Today, fully ripe grape bunches are harvested and dried for up to four months, losing 40% of their volume before winemaking begins. This process results in a higheralcohol, full-bodied yet often supple wine—hence its elevated price. Interestingly, Amarone began as a rare,
meditative, and celebratory wine but has since become mainstream, with production increasing more than sixfold between the early 1970s and the 2000s to meet demand. Ripasso is a bridge between regular Valpolicella and Amarone. In this style, Amarone pomace (or, occasionally, dried grapes) is added to base Valpolicella wine, imparting a slight alcoholic lift, more extract, and greater weight. A relatively recent development, Ripasso dates back only to the 1980s and evolved from the Valpolicella Superiore designation, which required a higher alcohol content (12%) and at least a year of aging in wood.
Despite the popularity of Amarone and Ripasso, the region’s namesake wine—Valpolicella—remains the foundation of its winemaking identity. However, after the production area expanded, overall quality became inconsistent. Many co-operative wineries produced uninspired Valpolicella, leading to its poor reputation, to the point where some quality-focused producers lost enthusiasm for it. However, with the success of Amarone and Ripasso—and the stricter production standards they introduced—there is renewed interest in high-quality Valpolicella, particularly from the historic Classico zone. At its best, the mild continental climate and the region’s naturally moderate-coloured, low-tannin grapes create a light, refreshing red with sour cherry and almond notes—a style that aligns perfectly with today’s preference for characterful, yet approachable, food-friendly wines.
Valpolicella remains the foundation of the quality pyramid that supports the popularity of Ripasso and Amarone. While these two stars have put Veneto on the global wine map over the past quarter-century, it may finally be time for well-made Valpolicella to shine alongside them.
Located in northeast Italy, Veneto’s claim to not inconsiderable vinous fame is rooted in wines, as in most of the country, based on its local grapes: Glera makes a popular and easy-going sparkling Prosecco; Garganega is responsible for increasingly interesting whites of better Soave producers; and Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, along with a supporting cast of other varieties, are behind the Valpolicella, Ripasso and Amarone reds. The latter two, the fuller-bodied regional expressions, have enjoyed the limelight for quite a while. However, with consumer tastes shifting towards lighter styles, it may finally be the time for good quality Valpolicella to take its rightful share of it.
Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella
$ 26 $ 312 $ 79 $ 474
A medium lemon-yellow pour. The nose offers a nice set of medium-intensity aromas of quince preserve, pencil lead, yellow apple butter, yellow plum, lees and aloe. The palate is dry and has a medium acidity, a medium extract, a medium texture and a medium body with lovely presence and flavours of quince preserve, yellow apple butter, aloe, lees and pencil lead with a medium finish. A fulsome style and well made. 2026-2027– ir
Corvina and Corvinone with 25% Rondinella, aged for 18 months in French oak barriques. A deep purple, opaque pour. The nose features an impressive range of mediumplus intensity aromas: coffee chocolate, dried marigolds, roasted carrots, dandelion milk, chokeberry reduction and blueberry tart. Dry, the structure consists of a medium-minus acidity, a medium-plus extract, medium fine-textured tannins and a medium-plus body, all wrapped into a lovely length and a kaleidoscope of flavours: cream, coffee chocolate, dried marigolds, dandelion milk, roasted carrots, prune, chokeberry, blueberry tart, tar, smoke and peat, closing with a medium-plus finish. 2026-2028 – ir
Silvano Tommasi and his brother Maurizio are sticklers for the traditional. They dry their grapes naturally over winter, which takes much longer but helps greatly in the retention of aromatic complexity. It is a much more expensive and riskier process than using modern, air-conditioned drying rooms, but the complexity, length and natural balance all favour graceful examples. The 400 metres of altitude at their family estate (one of the highest in the entire DOC) provides usefully cool nights that extend the ripening season. Silvano and Maurizio have been blown away by the reception their wines have had at Opimian – sales have far exceeded even our own predictions, and they are simply delighted. So, a big thank you from the Tommasi brothers!
5569
$ 39 $ 234
Pale purple hue. Charming nose of red cherries and kirsch with a splash of raspberry compote. The palate is a cherry-driven affair with both red and black, although the supporting flavours of pomegranate and red currant add further complexity. This is authentic Valpolicella Classico in all its nimble and red-fruited glory. 2026-2028 – mp
$ 53 $ 318
Medium ruby hue. Soft red fruit and smoky barrel notes on the nose. There is red cherry, plum, creosote and cinnamon. The elegant and complex palate reveals zippy acidity that anchors flavours of griottes, hibiscus, black cherry and black pepper. This is the thinking person’s ripasso, assured and age-worthy with a lightness of touch. 2027-2030 – mp
Aged Grana Padano
5571
AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA
CLASSICO DOCG, MONTE CASTELON, 2020
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
$ 96 $ 576
Medium ruby hue. Beautifully fresh. Aromas of wild strawberry, red roses, licorice and raspberry waft from the glass: this is an essay in balance and power. The palate is awash with acidity and impressive, fine-grained tannins building to an endless finish with concentrated flavour that includes sour cherry, tar, florals, red plum, cinnamon and clove. There is enough length on the finish to land a jumbo jet. Utterly spellbinding and possibly immortal. 2028-2035 – mp
5595 SCRIANI ORÌ VINO ROSSO
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara Oseleta, Merlot
Dark ruby in color, this Rosso delle Venezie presents inviting aromas of ripe plummy fruit, spices and balsamic hints. The palate is full-bodied and smoot with rich, layered flavours complemented by fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins. A balanced, harmonious wine with a medium-length finish where subtle oak and balsamic notes add complexity. 2026-2031–jb
Scriani is a family-run winery in Fumane, a prized terroir within the historic Classico sub-zone of Valpolicella. Known for its steep hills and ideal climate, Fumane produces some of the region’s most intense wines. The Cottini family produces the typical range of Valpolicella wines – from the bright, easy-drinking Valpolicella to the richer Ripasso – and the powerful Amarone wine made from dried grapes.
This Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot blend, less typical for the region, delivers a bold, full-bodied profile with high viscosity and a warming finish. Cedar and dark fruit aromas lead to a palate of baked dark fruit and herbal undertones. The ripeness of the tannin and fresh acidity give lift and definition. Drink now, while the fruity vibrancy remains at its height. 2026-2028 –jb
Puglia, in southeastern Italy, has a history dating back to the 15th–20th centuries BCE, along with a longstanding winemaking tradition. However, only in the past few decades has there been greater recognition and expression of the region’s true potential, particularly through its native grapes, such as Primitivo and Negroamaro.
Paolo Leo’s family trajectory overlaps only the last 100 or so years of Puglia’s heritage. Five generations of the family have grown the grapes here, and the first wines were made by Nicola Leo as far back as the early 1900s. His son, Paolo, founded the winery in 1989 with the first releases heading to the market in 1999. So, while the entire family’s time here overlapped only a fraction of the region’s history, their quarter-century as winemakers who are focused on authentic expressions of their region fully coincided with Puglia’s quality movement, both benefitting from and contributing to it.
Primitivo, Negroamaro, Nero di
Forty per cent of the blend was aged in second-fill barriques for six months. The wine displays a deep ruby, opaque color and a medium-intensity, very pretty aromatic set: nicely poised cassis preserve, floral notes, roasted carrots and cream. The palate is dry, has a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium medium-textured tannins and a medium body with a nice length and pretty straightforward yet attractive, flavours of cassis, roasted carrots and flowers followed by a medium finish. 2026-2027– ir
A blend of a third of each grape with half of the final blend spending 12 months in second- and third-fill barriques. A deep ruby, opaque robe. The nose features medium intensity elements of red and black plum spread, cream, celery and flowers. Dry, the palate shows a medium acidity, a medium-minus extract, medium medium-textured tannins, a medium body and lovely presence and persistence of red and black plum spread, chokeberry, celery and blueberry tart flavours towards a medium finish. 2026-2027– ir
Sweet-hot sausages sautéed with peppers and onions
5587
PRIMANERO PRIMITIVO, PUGLIA
IGP, APPASSIMENTO, ORGANIC, 2023
Primitivo
The wine offers a deep ruby garnet, opaque appearance and medium-intensity aromas of cooking chocolate, cabbage rolls, chives, roasted carrots, dried marigolds and dried prune reduction. The palate is near-dry, shows a low adequate acidity, a medium extract, medium medium-textured tannins, a medium body, a nice length and persistent flavours of dried flowers, leather, chestnut, roasted carrots, cabbage rolls, chives, dried blueberry and prune reduction, and a medium-plus finish. 2026-2028 – ir
Cooking chocolate, cabbage rolls, chives, roasted carrots, dried marigolds, dried prune reduction
Dried flowers, leather, chestnut, roasted carrots, cabbage rolls, chives, dried blueberry, prune reduction
Tuscan pappa al pomodoro with cannellini and sausage
5593 COLPASSO PRIMITIVO, PUGLIA IGP, 2024
5594 INTEGRO NEGROAMARO PUGLIA IGP, ORGANIC WINE, 2024
Primitivo
A deep ruby, opaque pour here. The nose offers medium-intensity elements of chocolate, prune spread, ink and walnut paste. The palate is dry and medium-framed: acidity, extract, mediumtextured tannins and body with a nice length and prune, chocolate, ink and sour plum preserve flavours before a medium finish. 2026-2027– ir
Chocolate, prune spread, ink, walnut paste
Prune, chocolate, ink, sour plum preserve
tagine with apricots and prunes
The wine has a deep ruby, opaque appearance. There are medium-intensity, floral, prune spread, black cherry jam, pecan pie and creamy elements on the nose. Dry, the palate is made up of a low acidity, a medium extract, medium fine-textured tannins, a medium body, a lovely presence and a creamy, coating persistence that takes some time to build, aided by prune spread, pecan pie and chocolate brownie flavours, closing with a medium-plus finish. 2026-2027– ir
chocolate brownie
Cremini mushroom and lentil shepherd’s pie
Le Vigne di Sammarco, located in Cellino San Marco in the heart of Puglia, is a family-owned winery with a rich history dating to 1972. Founded by Marco Rizzello, who transitioned from supplying grapes to local cooperatives to producing his own wines, the estate is now run by its third generation. The Rizzello family cultivates 120 hectares of vineyards, primarily planted to indigenous varietals such as Primitivo, Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera and Susumaniello. Their diverse portfolio includes red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, all reflecting the unique terroir of Salento – a hot, sun-drenched, windy region nestled between the Ionian and Adriatic seas.
The Salice Salento IGP in Puglia produces brash, characterful reds typically from Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera: such is the case here. This 2023 vintage embraces the intensity and structure typical of the area with its dense body and very firm, rustic tannins. Gamey, earthy notes mingle with dark fruit on the nose and palate. 2026-2028 –jb
The 2021 Riserva cuvée is less savoury with higher-toned cherry and plum fruit and pleasant brambly, herbal undertones. The ample, weighty frame is lifted by fresh acidity and hints of tangy red fruit. Finishes with firm, slightly rustic tannins that need a good food pairing. Modest, yet well balanced and fruity. 2026-2028 –jb
Primitivo, Negroamaro
The monovarietal Malvasia Nera 2023 offers good value. Its dense, weighty structure is ably balanced by bright acidity and defined dark fruit. The tannins are firm yet ripe, providing a nice framework for the finish. Lively and easy drinking with a rounded, fruity finish. Drink now or across the next two to three years. 2026-2029 –jb
The 2022 vintage monovarietal Negroamaro is quite a big wine with intense cooked and jammy dark-fruit flavours, intermingled with spiced and chocolatey notes. The overt sweetness of the fruit on the palate is confronted with very high, mouthwatering acidity and marked tannins. Serve with food. 2026-2028 –jb
The 2022 Archè Blend is produced from Primitivo and Negroamaro. The result is full bodied, plush and subtly warming. Heady baked dark fruit, floral tones and a hint of smoke make for an alluring aromatic mix. The equally dark-fruited, spiced palate is lifted by fresh acidity and finishes with velvety tannins. A bold yet reasonably well-balanced red wine. 2026-2030 –jb
Nebbiolo
Pale garnet hue. Vibrant aromas that are reminiscent of Valpolicella: red cherry, red currant, black cherry, plum, pomegranate, violets, damp earth and wet leaves. Try as one might, it is difficult to find fault with anything! The fruit character builds on the palate with plum, black cherry, dark chocolate, Parma violets, peony and almond joining the red fruit core. The striking, grippy tannins are welcome, while there is an imposing freshness to the acidity. Seriously structured and complex, this is not one for beginners – but very definitely deserves to be appreciated. 2025-2030– mp
Few know that Lombardy also produces Nebbiolo – it’s not just a Piemonte thing. Alpi Retiche IGT covers the same area as Valtellina –which enjoys a steady reputation for high-quality Alpine Nebbiolo – but allows for a wider variety of grapes and styles than the latter. Plozza was founded by the late Pietro Plozza, a Swiss railway worker who recognized that the potential for great wine extended beyond the Swiss border. The Rhaetian Alps, which span both Switzerland and Italy, play a crucial role in protecting the region from harsh weather, ensuring a stable, dry, and extended growing season. Combined with the region’s rocky soils, this results in lively, aromatic wines that can be approached earlier than their cousins in Barolo or Barbaresco. Nebbiolo, known locally as Chiavennasca, is the mainstay of this region and of these superb wines that struggle to find comparison with anything from the Langhe.
RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR
Griottes, cassis, cinnamon, wood smoke
Lasagna with smoked vegetables
Pale garnet hue. Concentrated nose showing Barolo-like aromas of hay, licorice, vanilla, cedar and blackberry. Insane levels of alcohol on the palate and impressive concentration. Remaining nimble, this delivers an explosion of black cherry, griottes, cassis, cinnamon and wood smoke, allied to dusty tannins and super-fresh acidity that helps knock this up a gear. Finishes clean and assured. 2025-2030– mp
Our Cellar Up! program is evolving to make your ordering experience even smoother.
Many Members love to order each of the Coups de Coeur. For this Cellar, you can easily order all four Coups de Coeur, the top selections from your Masters of Wine, with a single lot number. CHEERS TO CONVENIENCE AND QUALITY.
5602 LOT $ 660
Salariis Friulano Friuli DOC, 2024, Lot 5589 (part of a mixed case)
One of the great things about having multiple Masters of Wine tasting for Opimian is that each brings their own palate to the table—while maintaining the same level of expertise. Have a look above at Jacky Blisson MW’s pick from Friuli-Venezia. Now apply the same Cellar Up! advice to this one. The best part? You can’t go wrong! In fact, why not choose both?
Scriani Orì Vino
Rosso, Lot 5595
Why are so many wines blended rather than single varietals? Because blending different grapes gives the winemaker more control over the final result. A little of this for body, a touch of that for colour, and maybe a third variety for a specific essence. This wine contains no fewer than seven grape varieties. No wonder Jacky found it balanced and harmonious.
To order, please go to Opimian.ca and search lot 5602.
Salariis Ribolla Gialla, Venezia Giulia IGT, 2024, Lot 5589 (part of a mixed case) Ever heard of Friuli-Venezia? We thought so. This wine region in northeastern Italy is known for its easy-drinking wines—like this one. If you're looking for a bottle to open when friends drop by for a casual get-together, this one will spark conversation and earn you a few compliments on your great taste.
Carlomagno
Primitivo, Puglia IGP, Appassimento, 2024, Lot 5591 Appassimento is an Italian winemaking process where dried grapes, rather than fresh ones, are fermented. This technique results in a big wine with great depth of flavour and excellent structure. Primitivo is a fantastic variety for this method. When your meal calls for a bold, food-friendly wine, this is just the ticket.