C305-QC

ORDER MAY 2 - JUN 5, 2023

BORDEAUX, BERGERAC AND BEAUJOLAIS

RAISE YOUR GLASS TO PERFECTION!

Father and daughter Martin and Charlotte Krajewski from Clos Cantenac and Château Séraphine.

LA ROSERAIE 1868 DU CLOS CANTENAC, SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU, 2020

An Ode to Saint-Émilion

Clos Cantenac is a two-hundred-year-old estate located in the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru appellation. The “Megalith de Pierrefitte”, a prehistoric standing stone, lies nearby pervading the vineyards with a sense of being planted on hallowed ground. Indeed, the terroir of this small, six-hectare estate is special. A temperate, continental climate, gentle south-facing slopes, and mixed soils of deep gravel, sand, and clay, over limestone provide ideal conditions for Merlot to flourish. Vineyard work is carried out with meticulous care, using only chemical-free sustainable methods.

The 2020 growing season was exceptionally hot and dry, after an initial phase of rainy spells in spring. Harvest began early and yielded a small crop of ripe, concentrated grapes. The “La Roseraie” cuvée is a Merlot-dominant red wine. Secondary blending grapes include Cabernet Franc, for its vibrant fruity fragrance, and Cabernet Sauvignon to reinforce the tannic framework, adding structure to the plush, broad Merlot base.

To develop flavour and integrate tannins, the wine macerated on its skins for several weeks after fermentation. Ageing then took place for one year in mainly second and third-fill French oak barrels. These seasoned barrels impart more subtle cedar, vanilla oaked nuances, while still allowing a gentle micro-oxygenation, rounding out and harmonizing the blend. The result is a full-bodied, tightly knit red with remarkable finesse. Notes of dark summer fruit gain in complexity, with undertones of cedar and smoked meat. Overall, a well-integrated, if still slightly taut, red that will age gracefully over the medium term. 2024-2034 –jb

Plum, dark berries, cedar, smoked meat

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Cassis, plum, savoury, baking spice

14% Beef entrecôte à la Bordelaise

EDITORIAL

A Blockbuster Cellar

Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

As you'll read in Jacky Blisson MW's report in the Master Piece on page 6, Bordeaux had its challenges this year. Similar challenges faced the other two "Bs" as well. Despite that, there are plenty of exceptional wines to choose from in this issue. Our MWs were delighted by the quality that appeared in the samples sent to our Head Office in Montreal for tasting.

P7

COUPS DE COEUR

CANADIAN CORNER P8

BERGERAC P10

Château Pique-Sègue P10

BEAUJOLAIS P12

Domaine de Milhomme P13

Domaine de Croifolie P14

Château de Durette P15

Domaine Sancy P19

BORDEAUX P22

Château Haut Maginet P24

Château Surain P25

BORDEAUX LEFT BANK P26

Médoc P27

Saint-Estèphe P29

TOP VALUE WINES P30

Château Moutin P32

Haut-Médoc P34

Pauillac/Graves/Sauternes P35

Entre-Deux-Mers P36

Cadillac Côtes De Bordeaux P36

Château Charreau P37

Château Vermont P38

Château Roquefort P40

Château du Clos du Prévôt P40

BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK P42

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux P43

Vignobles Arbo P43

Francs Côtes de Bordeaux P44

Vignobles Eymas P45

Château Marzin P46

Clos Cantenac P48

SPIRITS P52

COLLECTOR’S CORNER P56

CELLAR

Thousands of Opimian Members have taken advantage of the value that Château Pique-Sègue wines bring from Bergerac. If you haven't tried them, you owe it to yourself to discover why they are so popular year after year.

The Beaujolais wines are drinking better than ever. We've created several mixed cases so that you can work your way through the various Crus. While it may seem daunting, keep in mind that it's all Gamay and it's all delicious, with subtle variants by Cru.

There is a saying that is as old as Opimian's 50 years : "There is nothing constant but change." If you're a lover of Opimian's venerable Prince Pirate red and white, you're in for a treat. As the quality of wines in the Cellar has gone from good to great, some wines, like the 'Vin de France' that is Prince Pirate were lagging behind the trend. Our MWs sought to source a new, better alternative from Bordeaux at that Top Value price point. Thanks to a long-time, trusted partner, the Darriet Family, we've found it. Enter Château de Rouquette red and white made exclusively for you. Every Member should have this in their cellar, on their counter and in their hand!

Add to this an array of wines at all price points - all the way up to the world-famous Grand Cru of St. Émilion. With French spirits for every palate and dessert wines that only a select few in the world have ever tasted, you have a blockbuster Cellar that the three Bs provide year after year.

Now is the time to enhance your existing cellar. If you're just beginning, have a look at the Instant Cellar on page 33 and let our experts provide you with a wonderful assortment of iconic wines. Cheers!

Michael & Greg

YOUR MASTERS OF WINE FOR THIS CELLAR

Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.

Michael Palij MW Michael Palij is an adventurer, entrpreneur, and the 3rd Canadian Master of Wine. Over the years, he has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto, Giovanna Tantini and Cantina Clavesana.

Ordering Made Easy

1. SELECT YOUR WINES

Let yourself be inspired by Opimian’s Masters of Wine. Our custom chart features a list of symbols to help guide your selection. Still unsure which wines to order? Contact us!

2. PLACE YOUR ORDER

There are three ways to order. The last day to order for each Cellar Offering can be found listed on the cover. No orders will be processed after this time.

3. LET US HANDLE THE REST

The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side. Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.

Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.

Louise Wilson MW : LW Jacky Blisson MW: JB Michael Palij MW: MP Igor Ryjenkov

Bordeaux Vintage Report

By Jacky Blisson MW

Frost, hail, heatwaves, drought, wildfires… The 2022 growing season threw more than its share of challenges at Bordeaux grape growers. And yet, early reports from across the region categorize the vintage as very promising.

Brief Overview of Previous Vintages

2020

Rainy early season weather gave way to a hot summer with heavy mildew pressure. An early harvest season, with uneven quality. The best are silky and charming, though watch out for some poor fruit definition and hard tannins from underperformers.

2019

A hot, dry summer with sufficient rainfall to produce a balanced crop. Dense, ripe fruited wines are common from the best areas of the Haut Médoc, Pomerol, and Saint Emilion. The outlying areas are more hit and miss.

JACKY BLISSON is one of Opimian's Masters of Wine.

MASTER PIECE

COUPS DE COEUR

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE

EVERYDAY DRINKING

DOMAINE SANCY, AOP SAINTAMOUR, 2022, LOT 4244, P19

CHÂTEAU ANDRON BLANQUET, AOC SAINT-ESTÈPHE, 2019, LOT 4261, P29

CHÂTEAU D'ARCHE, GRAND CRU CLASSÉ, AOC SAUTERNES, 2013, LOT 4291, P35

CELLARING POTENTIAL

LITTLE DONKEY ROUGE, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, CHÂTEAU MARZIN, 2019, LOT 4279, P46

2018

A stellar low-yielding vintage. Early rains provided ample water reserves for the very hot, dry season that followed. The Left Bank produced complex, tannic wines for ageing. The Right Bank is also strong, though marginally less consistent.

2017

Punishing frosts hit early causing yields to plummet and late season rains caused some dilution. A good – if not great – early drinking vintage with fresh, lighter wines from Haut Médoc and Saint-Emilion producers. Pomerol gave fruity, velvety wines.

2016

An exceptional Left Bank vintage, often likened to the outstanding 2010s. The balance of rain, heat, and dry weather was excellent. These wines are structural

powerhouses, with elegance, freshness, and complex flavours. Quality on the Right Bank was also high.

2015

An incredible vintage for Right Bank Bordeaux. Very warm and dry throughout, producing dense, fleshy wines with balanced freshness. Left Bank wines are opulent in style. Margaux was a particular stand-out.

2014

A cloudy, wet summer saved by drier late season conditions. Not a stand-out for quality, but many juicy, easy-drinking wines that offer good value.

2013

Quite a wet vintage overall, producing light, fresh, earlydrinking wines. While not a memorable vintage elsewhere, 2013 Sauternes is racy and elegant, with vivid flavours.

CANADIAN CORNER

3678

NEW PRODUCER

Cloudsley Cellars

Cloudsley Cellars is a boutique winery, located in Vineland, Ontario that specializes in producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that evoke a sense of place. Drawing on his 20 plus years of experience as a wine professional, founder Adam Lowy is inspired by his love of Burgundy and his appreciation of the unique Niagara terroir to create elegant wines that reflect the cool climate of the region.

CLOUDSLEY CELLARS HOMESTEAD

4220

VINEYARD PINOT NOIR, VQA

TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2019

Pinot Noir

The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in a glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2023-2028–lw

The 2019 Cloudsley Cellars’ Homestead Vineyard Pinot Noir is a single vineyard wine crafted from fruit grown in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. This is a Burgundian style Pinot with an evolving bouquet of cherry, leather, balsamic and cured meat. Upon the first sip the palate expresses notes of cherry, strawberry and raspberry framed with fine grained tannin. An excellent match for beef carpaccio. 2023-2025 – lw

Cherry, leather, balsamic, cured meat

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry

Beef carpaccio

We first met proprietors Doug Barzelay and Nathan Todd on the recommendation of Michael Palij, MW, who tasted the Foxtrot wines at the annual Canada House tasting in London, England. We were fascinated by their passion for Pinot Noir – and the wine lived up to its stellar reputation. We are thrilled to be able to offer a limited parcel of the 2020 Foxly Opimian Special Reserve Pinot Noir to our Members and look forward to sharing more wines from the portfolio as they become available. A swirl of this delicately-hued wine releases a bouquet of cherry, red currant and plum wrapped in the warmth of toasty oak. The palate is notably concentrated with the red fruit profile evolving to flavours of strawberry, cranberry and plum. The barrel influence carries through with hints of cinnamon and clove, adding dimension. Light tannins and fresh acidity frame the core as the wine tapers off into a satisfying finish. 2023–2027–lw

13%

Strawberry, cranberry, plum, cinnamon,

Wild mushroom risotto

Shipping fees may apply.

Cherry, red currant, plum, toasted oak

clove

3848

FOXLY OPIMIAN SPECIAL RESERVE PINOT NOIR, BC VQA, 2020

Pinot Noir

PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021

Chardonnay

Honeydew melon, peach,

Honeydew melon, peach,

Salmon cakes with lemon aioli and a fresh greens salad

Whisky

Orange zest, toasted coconut, mince pie

Grilled orange, apricot, date, caramel

Allspice

This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned. – lw

4138

LIGHTFOOT AND WOLFVILLE SMALL LOT RIESLING PÉTILLANT NATUREL, 2021

Riesling JOIN THE HARRIS BEACH CASK CLUB! CHECK OUT LOT 3690 AT OPIMIAN.CA

The wine world is buzzing about pétillant naturel or “pet nat” wines. In this ancient method of making sparkling wine, the one fermentation finalizes in the bottle, trapping the bubbles inside. It is also common for these wines to be hazy, or have sediment, as they are often not disgorged. The 2021 Lightfoot and Wolfville Small Lot Pétillant Naturel has a cloudy lemon hue and generous complexity. An enticing dance between its peachy, apricot stone-fruit notes and its savoury leesy bread dough side takes place on the nose and the palate. This mouthwatering conversation starter is a perfect way to begin an evening. Only 365 cases produced. 2023–2024–lw

3764 MELDVILLE CABERNET FRANC, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2016

3630

Sémillon, Vidal, Malbec

Do the wines of Niagara have the potential to age? Derek Barnett’s wines confirm that they can. With 6 years under its belt, this 2016 Cabernet Franc it is still very much alive. Time in bottle has developed a complex nose with highlights of cherry, strawberry and fresh herb accompanied by notes of licorice, floral and vanilla. The palate also offers the classic reauvigd and green profile expected from this variety, with flavours of raspberry, red currant, rhubarb and spearmint. 10 barrels produced. 2023-2026–lw

A unique blend of grape varieties, including the only Malbec grown in Prince Edward County, gives the Karlo Estates Patio Reserve Rosé lots of personality. Rose petal perfume and aromas of pink grapefruit carry through to the palate where a refreshing twist of lime appears on the finish.2023-2024– lw

Cherry, licorice, strawberry, herb, floral, vanilla

Raspberry, red currant, rhubarb, spearmint

Vegetarian chili

Cabernet Franc

Peach, apricot, bread dough, lees

Peach, apricot, bread dough, lees, [3.50]

Duck fat French fries

Rose, pink grapefruit

Rose, pink grapefruit, lime, [6.00]

Mussaman Thai curry with galangal, basil and lime leaf

KARLO ESTATES PATIO RESERVE ROSÉ, VQA ONTARIO, 2021

Château Pique-Sègue

The Bergerac wine region lies in southwestern France, just 70 kilometres from Bordeaux. The vineyards are planted on gentle rolling hills on both sides of the Dordogne River. Château Pique-Sègue has been making wine in the Côtes de Bergerac and Montravel crus for over 700 years. Throughout the centuries, the estate has maintained its reputation for lively whites and elegant red wines.

This crisp, vigorous sparkling wine is crafted with Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Light in body and subtly creamy, it features intense ripe stone and tropical fruit aromas, with underlying green herbal nuances. A departure from more common Chardonnaybased “Blanc de Blancs” bubblies, this blend has great varietal typicity and lingering freshness. 2023-2026– jb

12%

Apricot, peach, pineapple, herbal

Lemon, lime, gooseberry, apricot, [6.00]

Asparagus Brie grilled cheese

BULL BRUT, BLANC DE BLANCS, MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE, 2020

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

photo — Marc Catteaux, vineyard manager and winemaker, tasting the maturity of the Merlot grapes.

$ 70 $ 210

CELLAR 305 — QUEBEC

4234 CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE, AOC MONTRAVEL, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris

A crisp, dry white wine made from two varieties of Sauvignon. While not as aromatic, Sauvignon Gris brings a slightly richer, fleshier texture to round out blends. A short period of skin contact, followed by fermenting and aging in neutral vessels gives this fruity, unoaked white lots of easy-drinking appeal. 2023-2025– jb

Lemon, passionfruit, melon, eucalyptus

Pineapple, lemon, grapefruit, [2.00]

Vegan mushroom pâté

4235

CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE, AOC BERGERAC, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec

This youthful Merlotdominant blend is brimming with just-ripe notes of cassis and dark plum, underscored by subtle meaty and earthy flavours. A subtle microoxygenation is carried out after fermentation to tame robust tannins and integrate lifted acidity. Still quite grippy on the finish. Will benefit from another year in bottle to reveal its full potential. 2024-2029– jb

dark fruit, earthy, cocoa

Boeuf en croute

4236

CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE, AOC CÔTES DE MONTRAVEL, 2020

Sauvignon Gris

Château Pique-Sègue Côtes de Montravel white is made from late-harvested grapes infected with a beneficial fungus called Botrytis cinerea (a.k.a. noble rot). This shrivels the berries, concentrating acids and sugars. The resulting wine, made from the Sauvignon Gris variety, is lusciously sweet, with crisp acidity, and intense citrus, tropical, and herbal flavours. 2023-2025– jb

Cassis, plum, savoury, earthy

Tangy

Grapefruit, lime, pineapple, tarragon

Apricot, grapefruit, candied lemon, [48.00]

Green Goddess hummus

photo —Marianne Mallard standing between husband Marc and Patricia Guéry, oenologist, in their Malbec vineyard, overlooking their estate and lake.

BEAUJOLAIS

Beaujolais is located just south of Burgundy in eastern France. Over the past half-century, international audiences have come to associate the area with the light, fruity Nouveau wines released just weeks after harvest. This is a serious underestimation, however, as the diverse granite soils and rolling hills here are home to the

country’s finest Gamay. As in many French wine regions, the vineyards are divided into a quality hierarchy from basic Beaujolais to BeaujolaisVillages and to the top tier of ten cru villages. Wine from these areas, such as Morgon, Juliénas, and Saint-Amour, are prized for their bright fruit, overall elegance, and poise.

FRANCE

photo — The 'Pierres Dorées' region, home to Domaine de Milhomme, is sprinkled with medieval villages. CELLAR 305 — QUEBEC

DOMAINE DE MILHOMME

Bernard Perrin was raised on his family’s Domaine de Milhomme estate in the Monts de Beaujolais area. As a trained oenologist, Bernard enjoyed transmitting his winemaking savvy to the young interns. This led him to start representing small, local domaines helping to craft their wines and sell them around the world. Domaine de Milhomme is now run by Bernard’s talented winemaker nephew, Manuel.

4237

BERNARD PERRIN, CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BRUT, AOP CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE

Chardonnay

Crémant de Bourgogne is made using the traditional method of secondary bottle fermentation, also employed in Champagne. The Chardonnay for this Blanc de Blancs cuvée hails from 40-year-old vineyards with stony clay-limestone soils. Large, rounded bubbles and a broad structure give this fruity sparkling wine a smooth palate profile. 2023-2025 –jb

Pear, marzipan, fresh bread, [6.00]

Gruyère gougères

4238

DOMAINE DE MILHOMME, CUVÉE LE MÛRIER, AOP BEAUJOLAIS, 2022

The French word “mûrier” translates as mulberry. This is an apt cuvée name, as aromas of wild berries mingle with peppery and herbal hints on the nose. The palate is quite lean and taut, with very refreshing acidity and medium-weight tannins. Best served with light, savoury dishes, slightly chilled. 2023-2026 –jb

Chicken tagine with apricots

Floral, lemon, pear, biscuit

Wild berries, cracked pepper, earthy

Raspberry, red currant, subtly savoury

Gamay

photo —Crémant de Bourgogne is as good with desserts as it is with apéritif!

4239

Four generations of the Crozet family have carefully tended their vineyards in the Beaujolais village of Salles-Arbuissonnas. With panoramic views over the Beaujolais hills and Saône Valley, the estate spans six hectares of old-vine Gamay. Our mixed case of 2022 vintage Tradition and Vieilles Vignes wines is a great way to discover the stylistic range of this historic producer.

DOMAINE DE CROIFOLIE

DOMAINE DE CROIFOLIE, TRADITION, AOP BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES, 2022

The estate describes the nose of this Tradition cuvée as “un panier de fruits,” a basket of fruit. This is certainly the case with ripe dark and red fruit notes combining on the velvety palate. Short aging of just five months in tank bolsters this youthful, fruit-driven profile. Discreet nutty flavours linger on the finish. 2023-2027 –jb

DOMAINE DE CROIFOLIE CASE - 3

BOTTLES EACH: TRADITION AND VIEILLES VIGNES

DOMAINE DE CROIFOLIE, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP BEAUJOLAIS VILLAGES, 2022

This unoaked, old vine cuvée is sourced from 65-year-old Gamay vines grown in granite and volcanic soils. The nose is vivid and fragrant with mixed red berry, floral, and spiced notes. Brisk acidity lifts the medium-bodied palate on this smooth, rounded red wine. 2023-2027 –jb

Blackberry, blueberry, violet, baking spice

Red cherry, kirsch, almond

Puff pastry goat cheese with blackberry preserve

Gamay

Red cherry, raspberry, violet, cinnamon

Red cherry, raspberry, red plum, chocolate

Citrus-marinated carne asada

Gamay

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE

Established in 2006, the 24-hectare Château de Durette is the passion project of a group of Beaujolais-loving friends. Their sustainably farmed vineyards span ten appellations from across the region. The winery is located in Régnié-Durette, from which the property draws its name. The focus here is on individual terroir expression, with an overarching stylistic bent toward perfumed, harmonious, structured wines.

We are delighted to offer two outstanding cru wines in this mixed case. The first from the granite slopes of Juliénas, in the northern Beaujolais, A Cru which produces fruity yet chunky, lightly spiced wines. Secondly, a Moulin-à-Vent, which, at a push, is the greatest of all the Beaujolais crus. Its wines are noteworthy for their floral depth and ageing potential.

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, COLLINE DE MOUILLES, AOP JULIÉNAS, 2022

True to form, this is intense, aromatic, and spicy on the nose. A telling wave of luscious, roughhewn fruit follows (plum and strawberry), supported by super fine tannins, and plenty of acidity. The finish is a fruit bowl brimming with blackcurrant, blackberry, cherry and plum. Delicious now yet will only improve with a few years cellaring. 2024-2026–mp

4240

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE CRU CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH: JULIÉNAS AND MOULIN-À-VENT

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES GIMARETS, AOP MOULIN-À-VENT, 2022

Think more of Beaujolais!! A refined nose of boysenberry and freshly-baked bread. The palate shines with a generous dollop of red fruits (raspberry, red cherry, cranberry) and wet stone. Carefully judged acidity lifts this beyond a simple fruit bomb and provides freshness. The tannins are also beautifully aligned, with a silky edge that gives an unexpected parting shot to this fine Beaujolais. 2024-2026–mp

and respect for the environment.

Black pepper, cinnamon, red plum, liquorice

Strawberry, red plum, blackcurrant, cherry

Cajun grilled shrimp with tropical fruit salsa

Gamay

Boysenberry, raspberry, red plum, fresh bread

Raspberry, cranberry, red cherry, crushed stones

Fried calamari with lemon aioli dip

Gamay

photo — Domaine de Croifolie is a father and daughter winery focusing on small batches

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES BRUREAUX, AOP CHÉNAS , 2022

Gamay

Chénas is located further north, bordered by Moulin-à-Vent and Juliénas. Les Brureaux is a particularly perfumed cuvée, with its intermingling of rose, peony, and wildflower notes over ripe dark fruits. The palate is satiny smooth and fresh, with an interesting nutty flavour that carries through the finish. 2023-2029 –jb

The cru appellations of Régnié and Chénas tend to produce lighter, more early-drinking styles of Beaujolais but don’t let their delicate touch fool you. They can offer surprising depth and complexity. Another great comparative cru mixed case to discover!

Located between Morgon and Côte de Brouilly, Régnié is prized for its pink granite soils which are said to give a certain spicy note to its wines. The “Les Bruyères” cuvée is highly aromatic, with baked red berry, floral, and baking spice notes. The palate is fresh, medium bodied, and moderately firm. Needs a little time to soften.

2023-2027 –jb

4241

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE CRU CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH: RÉGNIÉ AND CHÉNAS

$ 41 $ 246

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES BRUYÈRES, AOP RÉGNIÉ, 2022

and black berries, cherry,

cheese with toasted baguette

13.5%

Baked red berries, peony, cinnamon, earthy Raspberry, red cherry, earthy, savoury

Your favourite sushi selections

Gamay

Peony, rose, blackberry, cherry

Red

dried herbs

Neufchâtel

photo — The Château de Durette has lodging to welcome Opimian Members!

The Crus of Beaujolais –The Highest Quality Wines

the Region has to Offer!

When wine lovers think of the wines of Beaujolais, light and fruity wines come to mind. The wines from the Beaujolais Crus are perfect for those who want the best of both worlds from this region –fruity, yet with terroir-specific distinctiveness and a nod to Burgundian winemaking methods. It is fascinating to witness how the humble Gamay grape can be expressed in many ways in these Crus!

Beaujolais has two main parts – the north and the south. The mountainous northern part houses the Crus where the soils are predominantly granite and schist. These well-drained, low-nutrient soils grow Gamay grapes that are highly concentrated compared to the rest of the appellations in Beaujolais. The vines need to dig deep in these 300-million-year-old soils to find sources of water, creating incredible intensity and ageing potential that is apparent in the final product in bottle. While there are times when a

Beaujolais AOC or a Beaujolais Villages AOC is delightful with a weekday meal, the wines from the Beaujolais Crus are worthy to uncork for celebrations.

The ten Crus each produce distinctive wines. From north to south: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly. The AOC laws are stringent for Beaujolais Crus. They dictate that the vine density must be at least 6000 vines/hectare, 100% hand harvesting to select only unblemished grapes and growing yields of 56 hl/ha (the lowest of all the appellations in Beaujolais!). Not only that, but the wines are also made similarly to the reds in Burgundy at a fraction of the price. Who doesn’t love a great price-to-quality ratio?

It begs the question now – what to try? A great mixed case is the (Lot 4240, p.15) Château de Durette Cru Case that allows you to try the strawberry, lingenberry, cinnamon and violet notes of Juliénas and the full-bodied, powerful “King of Beaujolais”, Moulin-à-Vent. Another great option is the (Lot 4241, p.16) Château de Durette Cru Case with tart cherry, cassis, and white peach notes of Régnié and Chénas’ great aging potential with delicate floral notes of rose and peony. And don’t forget about the (Lot 4242, p.18) Château de Durette Cru Case with Morgon that has Pinot Noir-like earthy notes and Côte de Brouilly with its silky tannins, lively acidity, and fresh cranberry aromas.

This Cellar, Opimian has provided Members with the opportunity to get a wine from each of these ten Crus to advance your cellar. In addition to the Mixed Cases, consider ordering Chiroubles, Fleurie, Brouilly and Saint-Amour, all available in these pages. This is a great time to invest in the full collection!

Côtes de Brouilly and Morgon are both cru appellations, equally well regarded for their complex aromas and firmly structured palates. This mixed case is a great opportunity to compare two excellent terroirs.

4242

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE CRU CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH: MORGON AND CÔTE DE BROUILLY

$ 42 $ 252

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES CHARMES, AOP MORGON, 2022

Morgon is the largest of Beaujolais’ cru appellations. Its wines are considered to be among the longest lived, most powerful of the region. This is definitely a muscular wine, with a dense, tannic framework. However, its powerful build is softened by a velvety texture and concentrated core of ripe dark fruit, giving this serious red wine lots of charm! 2024-2034 –jb

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES FOURNELLES, AOP CÔTE DE BROUILLY, 2022

pan jus

The Côte de Brouilly vineyards lie on the Mount Brouilly slopes, on a bedrock of locally prized Brouilly blue stone soils so named for their bluish tint. The “Les Fournelles” cuvée is typical of the area, with its ripe fruit aromas, lively acidity, and firm structure. Chalky mineral hints mark the finish. 2023-2027 –jb

Red currant, plum, pepper, sandalwood

Dark cherry, plum, licorice, dark chocolate

Crispy roast chicken with

Gamay

Candied cherry, blackberry, violet, spice

Dark cherry, blackberry, dried thyme

Grilled fish with masala seasoning

Gamay

photo —Harvesting in the Beaujolais is a family affair and is always full of joy!

4244

DOMAINE SANCY

Thomas Boyer took over his family’s Juliénas estate in 2014. This northern Beaujolais cru stretches across the southern and south-eastern slopes of the Mont du Bessay. The vines thrive in this sun-baked environment on a diverse patchwork of granitic and sedimentary soils. Boyer vinifies his 9-hectares of Juliénas, SaintAmour and Chénas according to traditional methods passed down through the generations.

DOMAINE DE LA REVOL

4243 DOMAINE SANCY, AOP JULIÉNAS, 2022

The Saint-Amour cru is named after the village of the same name, sitting in the heart of the vineyards. This is the most northerly of the Beaujolais cru and produces both supple, fruity reds and more robust offerings, depending on the site. This 2022 cuvée is spiced and floral with lots of freshness, medium body, and a lithe, elegant character. 2023-2028 –jb

With its higher altitudes, varied soils, and southerly exposure, Juliénas produces a wide range of wines, the best of which have great structure and aging potential. This is a great example, with an intense, fruit-forward nose and concentrated flavours.

The palate is fresh and moderately firm, with finegrained tannins. Should keep well over the moderate term. 2023-2030 –jb

4245 DOMAINE DE LA REVOL, AOP BEAUJOLAIS, CHARDONNAY, 2022

Chardonnay

Domaine de La Revol Chardonnay hails from the southern reaches of Beaujolais. It is crafted in an easy-drinking, unoaked style with subtle citrus, apple and earthy aromatics. The palate is crisp, light and dry, with tart fruity flavours. Can be enjoyed as an aperitif or paired with a light starter.

2023-2025 –jb

As an aperitif

Cherry, kirsch, nutmeg, violet

Dark berries, cherry, red currant, baking spice

Grilled skirt steak fajitas with fresh salsa

DOMAINE SANCY, AOP SAINT-AMOUR, 2022

Gamay 750ml

Dark plum, cherry, almond essence, violet

Dark plum, cherry, almond, herbal

Coq au vin caramelized root vegetables

Gamay

Orange blossom, apple, lemon, fresh hay

Apple, lemon, earthy, [2.00]

photo —Thomas Boyer is a well-known vigneron in the Beaujolais. Here he is with the Bacchus d'Or trophy for having won 4 gold medals for his wines. A great honour!

One of the lighter Beaujolais cru, Chiroubles offers soft tannins and approachable, fruity flavours. The Lionel Despres Cuvée AnneMarie et Armand Desmures 2021 is true to its terroir. Tangy red berries mingle with earthy, herbal hints on the nose. The palate is taut and silky with zingy acidity that carries through the finish. Serve chilled. 2023-2027–jb

4246

DOMAINE DIT BARRON, AOP BROUILLY, 2022

4247

DOMAINE MONTANGERON, AOP FLEURIE, 2022

The Brouilly appellation lies at the foot of the Mont Brouilly, home to the Côte de Brouilly appellation. This lower lying area produces an earlier-drinking style of Beaujolais with plenty of fruit and finesse. Domaine Dit Barron features a mix of tart and riper red fruit with underlying peppery spice and a taut, lively palate. 2023-2027–jb

currant, cherry, pepper, floral

Red currant, rhubarb, subtly savoury

Haute-Savoie Reblochon with crostini and currant jelly

Fleurie wines are often described as the most floral and heady of the Beaujolais cru wines. Whether this is simply due to the appellation’s pretty name or a true reflection of its terroir is debatable. Domaine Montangeron’s 2022 Fleurie is certainly perfumed, giving way to deeper savoury and herbal notes on the palate. Weighty and concentrated with great lift and pleasing chalky tannins. 2023-2029 –jb

Baked dark fruit, cocoa, herbal

Slow-roasted leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic

Red

Gamay

Cassis, dark cherry, licorice, floral

Gamay

750ml

Strawberry, raspberry, tea leaves

Tangy red fruit, tea leaves, herbal hints

Roast veal forestiere with caramelized onions

Gamay

photo Muriel and Gilles

CURATED BY OPIMIAN’S MASTERS OF WINE

Explore and cultivate your curiosity with three styles of wines from one wine region! These are chosen by a Master of Wine for Members like you. Try 3 different styles of wine that are:

LOUISE WILSON MW

MICHAEL PALIJ MW

JACKY BLISSON MW

IGOR RYJENKOV MW

BORDEAUX

Bordeaux is one of France’s most prestigious and historic wine regions. Located in the country’s southwest, the vines stretch across the left and right bank of the Gironde estuary and the areas surrounding its tributaries, the Garonne, and the Dordogne. The temperate maritime climate here allows for a wide range of wine styles from sparkling, to still, to luscious dessert wines from revered terroirs like Sauternes. However, Bordeaux is best known for its powerful, age-worthy red wines blends. On the gravelly soils of the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is generally the dominant grape, whereas Merlot is the queen of the right bank.

4249 CHÂTEAU DU PIN, AOC BORDEAUX, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

The ripe, pronounced nose is bursting with cassis and blackberry, deftly supported by oaky notes of cinnamon and vanilla. The palate is intensely morish, plentiful layers of fresh black fruit eventually giving way to a finish of dried plum and leather: the first signs of budding maturity. All in all, Château du Pin is exceptional for an AOC Bordeaux. 2023-2024– mp

4250

CHÂTEAU JANON, AOC BORDEAUX, 2022

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 21 $ 126

14.5%

cinnamon, vanilla

Pulled pork sandwiches with plum barbecue sauce

Château Janon is all about the fruit. Aromas of ripe black plum, mulberry, and bramble are foremost from the off. The palate develops the theme: unbridled, expressive, ripe black plum, cassis, and bramble. Soft tannins and delicate acidity are unmistakable Merlot, although it doesn’t lack for tension on the finish. 2023-2024– mp

liquorice

Honey- and soy-marinated char-grilled flank steak

Cassis, blackberry,

Cassis, blackberry, dried plum, leather

12%

Ripe black plum, mulberry, bramble, cassis Blackberry, cassis, bramble,

CHÂTEAU HAUT MAGINET

The vineyards of Château Haut Maginet are located in the EntreDeux-Mers region of Bordeaux, so named for its position between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. The Jolivet family has tended their vineyards here for four generations; in the late 1990s, the family banded together with neighbouring growers to build a waste-water treatment plant to protect the local environment.

4251

CHÂTEAU HAUT MAGINET, AOC BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES JOLIVET, 2022

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc 4252

Baked - verging on jammy - dark fruit wafts from the glass of this simple, ripe 2022 Merlot-dominant blend. On the palate, brisk acidity lifts the fruit and reveals subtle vegetal hints. Still quite youthful and firm. Would benefit from a brief period of additional cellaring. 2024-2026 –jb

CHÂTEAU HAUT MAGINET, AOC BORDEAUX, BLANC, VIGNOBLES JOLIVET, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel to preserve its zesty flavours. This is a crisp, dry, light-bodied white wine with discreet citrus-driven aromas. Opens to riper stone fruit notes with aeration. 2023-2025 –jb

4253

CHÂTEAU HAUT MAGINET, AOC BORDEAUX ROSÉ, VIGNOBLES JOLIVET, 2022

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

This light, dry rosé is made from Cabernet Franc blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It offers soft red berry, citrus, and candied aromas on the nose, with subtle underlying leafy hints. The palate is supple and crisp. Drink upon release. 2023 –jb

Baked dark cherry and plum

Cassis, plum, red bell pepper

Hachis parmentier with Emmental

White flowers, lemon, peach

Yellow apple, grapefruit, apricot [0.00]

Pasta primavera with asparagus and lemon

13.5%

Nougat, strawberry, pink grapefruit

Red berries, grapefruit, apple, [0.00]

Grilled Asian-style pork chops with plums

4254

ASTARTÉ MERLOT, VIN DE FRANCE, CHÂTEAU SURAIN, 2020

Merlot

The “Astarté” Merlot is named for the ancient eastern goddess of war, fertility and growth. The goal of Château Surain was to craft an approachable Bordeaux style of red wine that would appeal to a crowd. This dry, full-bodied red is pleasantly aromatic with a broad, fleshy palate and muscular tannins. 2024-2029–jb

4255 POPCORN THE MERLOT, VIN DE FRANCE, CHÂTEAU SURAIN, 2020

Merlot

The “Popcorn” Merlot is another easy-drinking red wine from Château Surain sourced from Bordeaux and its surrounding areas. The nose offers typical aromas of plum and cassis with underlying earthiness. Vibrant acidity lifts dark and red fruit flavours on the palate. Finishes firm with hints of tobacco. 2024-2029–jb

Dark fruit, spice, subtle meaty hints

CHÂTEAU SURAIN

Château Surain is a 5th generation family wine estate on Bordeaux' right bank. This forward-thinking winery prohibits pesticide use in its vineyards and aims to craft fresh, lively wines with minimal winemaking intervention. Their eclectic range of labels is a testament to their modern outlook.

Tangy red and dark fruit, sweet tobacco

Beef daube with fresh pasta

Dark fruit, violet, cedar, spice

Mimolette cheese

Black plum, cassis, earthy

photo Adrien Surain is the owner and Winemaker of Astarté and Popcorn Merlot.

BORDEAUX LEFT BANK

Bordeaux is a tale of two rivers. The Garonne gives rise to the left bank concept, flowing north-west through the city itself to the Gironde estuary. On its western flank lie the prestige appellations: Sauternes, 40 kilometres southeast of the city, is the most celebrated of sweet

wines. Here, the interplay with the river Ciron produces autumnal morning mists and optimal conditions for the development of noble rot. The next big port of call is Graves, an area of free-draining soils that has enjoyed a reputation for fine wine production since the

1300s. Today, it enjoys status for dry whites. Approaching the city limits, one reaches Pessac-Léognan. Created in 1987 at the behest of a band of commercially-minded owners, Pessac has undoubtedly raised the profile of local red wines, despite its somewhat clunky name.

photo The vat cellar at Château Moulin Neuf.

To Bordeaux’s north lies the Haut Médoc. This is red wine country, with a particular emphasis on Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives on the well-drained soils. The major communes are (from south to north) Margaux, St-Julien, Pauillac, and St-Estèphe. Nearing the estuary, one approaches the much larger AC of Médoc. Here there is a propensity of cooler, clay-based soils, which suit the Merlot grape.

Clavis Oréa means “golden key” in Latin. This is the first vintage of Médoc wine for SaintÉmilion producer Château Carcanieux. The nose is brimming with blue and black fruit over complex undertones of leather, coffee and lifted eucalyptus notes. The palate is weighty yet balanced with firm, sinewy tannins.

2024-2031

4256 CHÂTEAU DU MOULIN NEUF, AOC MÉDOC, 2020

A very harmonious 2020 Médoc from Château du Moulin Neuf. The nose is ripe and reasonably complex with its fresh and dried dark fruit, hints of espresso and meaty undertones. The palate offers balanced freshness and a velvety texture that lingers through the finish. Drinking well now but should hold well over the short term. 2023-2028

4257 CHÂTEAU POITEVIN, AOC MÉDOC, CRU BOURGEOIS, 2014

Tournedos Rossini with Madeira demi-glace

4258 CLAVIS ORÉA, AOC MÉDOC, AMPHORA WINE, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot

Château Poitevin is classified as a Cru Bourgeois producer. This is a classification for Médoc AOC wines that singles out superior estates. Lovers of aged wine flavours (dried fruit, leather, mushroom, etc.) will enjoy this 2014 vintage. There is still lots of freshness and tannic structure alongside these developed notes. Should continue to evolve well over the moderate term. 2023-2029–jb

currant, cassis, plum, meaty hints

Game stew

Black plum, prune, leather, forest floor

Cassis, prune, smoked meaty hints

Fresh tagliatelle with Robiola and truffles

Cassis, prune, hints of espresso, smoked meat

Cassis, plum, savoury, tobacco

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Merlot,

Blueberry, cassis, mocha, eucalyptus

Red

The Modernization of Bordeaux

By Michael Palij, MW

The Paris riots and the French Revolution are both now well behind us but there is an insurrection of another kind currently underway in Bordeaux. The elephant in the room, of course, is global warming and, judging by the raisins that passed for healthy grapes on the vines in 2022, climate change has well and truly arrived in Aquitaine. If models are correct, Merlot will be unplantable by the end of the century. Without varieties that can cope with a rapidly warming climate, Bordeaux will be no more. Can we imagine Pauillac without Cabernet Sauvignon and Pomerol without Merlot?

Before throwing up our hands, it’s worth remembering that the Bordeaux we so revere today is largely a construct of the second half of the 20th century. In the 1930s, Pomerol was not on anyone’s lips (the AOC dates from 1936) and the composition of vineyards in the pre-phylloxera era was significantly different to that of today. Is it no great shakes, then, that six new grape varieties have been added to Bordeaux’s hit list

(Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets, Arinarnoa for red, Alvarinho and Liliorila for white)? Prudently, these upstarts will be permitted for no more than 5% of surface plantings and 10% of the final blend. For now. It’s always risky to rock the boat too vigorously, especially when the top estates can almost do no wrong. What makes the change so noteworthy, however, is the pedestal on which Bordeaux perches. Demand for the top wines in insatiable. As recently as 2021 exports rose by 9% in volume, and 30% in value globally despite the Covid-affected annus horribilis There is, however, a flip side to the crenelated châteaux and stratospheric price tags. For every Château Latour, there are a myriad of estates producing over-priced and over-extracted wines that exude little of Bordeaux’s elegant typicity. Meanwhile, at the other end of the AC pyramid, the area under vine has been increasing for 20 years and growers are struggling to make ends meet. AC Bordeaux trades as a commodity and no-one is buying this stuff, not even the French.

Change it seems, was long overdue, and it affects more than just the encepagement. Starting with the 2020 harvest, allowable yields have been cut with a declassification of 10% of red wine production into IGP. The Cru Bourgeois classification has returned to its former three-tier system with estates graded by the excellence their wines. Environmental responsibility is also on the up. Looking across the region, 90% of vineyards claim to no longer use herbicides; 60% of estates are certified by one of the many environmental regimes, and by 2025, there are plans for 100% accreditation.

Any revolution brings opportunity, and the ramparts of Bordeaux are crumbling, not tumbling. Value can still be found and so can genuinely exciting wines. They just may not conform to our preconceptions of what it is to be Bordeaux.

MICHAEL PALIJ MW is the third Canadian Master of Wine. He specializes in Italian wines and has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto, Giovanna Tantini and Cantina Clavesana.

SAINT-ESTÈPHE

4259 LA DEVISE DE LILIAN, AOC SAINT-ESTÈPHE, 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Concentrated and still youthful, La Devise de Lilian offers a vibrant nose of crushed blackcurrants, raspberry jam, allspice, and vanilla. The palate is packed with black fruit (blackcurrants, blueberry), but it is not monotone and the rich oak provides highlights. This wine has remarkably fine tannins, and a zesty streak of acidity. Almost New World in style yet balanced and convincing. 2025-2030 – mp

Blackcurrants, blueberry, liquorice, vanilla

Classic paté en croute

Château Martin announces itself as fully mature with an elegant bouquet of cooked cherry, stewed plums, smoky notes, and undergrowth. Classically detailed, the equally complex palate is very much complemented by sinewy tannins and precise acidity with the wine attaining a level of balance that works well with the tertiary notes on the long finish. 2023-2026 – mp

4261

CHÂTEAU ANDRON BLANQUET, AOC SAINT-ESTÈPHE, 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Château Andron Blanquet reveals intense aromas of blackcurrant, strawberry, vanilla, and clove. The addition of raspberry and black cherry on the palate makes for a subtle mingling of red and black fruit that is instantly recognisable as Bordeaux. Textbook stuff, as only one would hope (the estate is adjacent to Cos Labory). This will develop considerable complexity as it ages. 2023-2028 – mp

Cooked cherry, stewed plums, smoky notes, undergrowth

Stewed plums, undergrowth, coffee, gamey notes

Roast veal with creamy wild mushroom sauce

Blackcurrant, raspberry, black cherry, vanilla

Slow-braised beef short ribs with berry glaze

Crushed blackcurrants, raspberry jam, allspice, vanilla

4260 CHÂTEAU MARTIN, AOC SAINT-ESTÈPHE, 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Blackcurrant, strawberry, vanilla, clove

photo —Garden gateway at Château Andron Blanquet.

THE PRINCE IS DEAD. LONG

LIVE THE PRINCE.

Like most pirates, The Prince Pirate was born out of opportunity – in this case odd parcels of wine that either fell outside of traditional appellation requirements (read into that what you will in 1970s France) or were offered to us at advantageous prices providing that we didn’t reveal our sources. Over the years The Prince has developed a loyal following precisely because of the exceptional value that it offers.

But the Prince wasn’t just about opportunity. It was about selection. The buying team at Opimian takes its obligation to source wines that punch well above their weight extremely seriously. Combined, our Masters of Wine have hundreds of years of field experience. They blind taste and assiduously select only the very best (fewer than 1% of the wines we are sent make it into members’ cellars). Of all the wines - none was more hotly debated than The Prince.

It's rare that a wine is deemed good enough to make it into the catalogue and rarer still when an estate gets it right for both reds and whites, vintage after vintage. When the team tasted the red and white from Château de Rouquette, however, they were stopped dead in their tasting glasses. These wines punched WAY above their weight and were unanimously proclaimed to be worthy of carrying on the tradition of The Prince!

Available in half bottles, full bottles and magnums, please join us in welcoming the new Prince who, we can assure you, is every bit as deserving of the title as his predecessors.

CHÂTEAU DE

ROUQUETTE, OPIMIAN

EXCLUSIVE SELECTION, BLANC, AOC BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2022

Blanc, Sémillon

The Opimian Exclusive Selection, sourced from Sauvignon and Sémillon, sports an inviting nose with wax, honey, wet stone, white peach, quince and gooseberry. It’s blissfully oak-free. The palate develops at pace with honeyed notes, candle wax, white peach, honeydew melon and gooseberry. The finish is driven by both crisp acidity and fruit and it’s rounded off with a delicious, phenolic edge that provides texture and weight. 2023 – 2025 – mp

13%

Honey, wet stone, peach, quince

White peach, honeydew melon, gooseberry, [2.00]

Asparagus goat cheese salad

This delicious claret looks to the classic Bordeaux blend of Merlot enlivened with a dollop of Cabernet. Very knit for a 2022, the nose shows ripe fruit driven by classic Cabernet notes of cassis and menthol together with Merlot's softer plum and mulberry; jammy black fruit is supported by a hint of cooler red currant and cranberry. Beguiling and already starting to show well, this will be a joy in a year's time with both the concentration of fruit and layers of flavour necessary to age gracefully. 2024-2027–mp

Cassis, menthol, black plum, mulberry

Red currant, cranberry, black plum

Lapin sauté chasseur à la cocotte

Château Moutin

VIGNOBLES

J. DARRIET

How many wineries can boast a professor of oenology on their team? Jean-Christophe Darriet is general manager at this family estate, and his brother Phillippe is Professor at the University of Bordeaux. In 2021, Philippe analysed 12 bottles of Petrus that had been sent to the International Space Station for 14 months. Whether his observations made it into his brother’s cuvée room, we will never know. What is sure is that the Darriet employ innovation and experience to maximum effect and have been in business since 1797. Their holdings encompass six estates across Loupiac (the family home), Cadillac and Graves.

CHÂTEAU MOUTIN, AOC GRAVES, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2017

Sauvignon, Merlot

Obvious notes of black fruit including plum, cherry, liquorice, char and sweet spice. This is pronounced and already showing some attractive development as one would expect from a 2017. The palate has an oak-derived notes of liquorice, cedar and sweet spice along with black cherry, plum, mulberry and cola. The finish has an attractive dusty note that works well with the fruit adding some austerity but this is still a big-hearted crowd-pleaser. 2023 – 2027–mp

Black fruit including plum, cheery, liquorice, and sweet spice

Black cherry, real cola, mulberry, forest floor and cedar

Balsamic braised venison

$ 2733

HAUT-MÉDOC

4289 9 DE MARQUIS DE TERME, AOC MARGAUX, 2014

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot 3

$ 134 $ 402

Marquis de Terme is an exceptional wine. So exceptional that we have decided to offer the remarkable 2014 a second time as we were – exceptionally – able to secure a further allocation. The bouquet opens ripe and complex, delivering an aromatic symphony of blackberry, black cherry, leather, cinnamon, tar, and cigar box. The silky mid-palate glides across the tongue. It was a compelling drinking last year, this time it is highly polished with bramble, cassis, beef stock, and vanilla. Needless to say, the tannins are gorgeously integrated and there is plenty of acidity to support. The finish is lingering with complex and developing flavours. A glorious glass of red Bordeaux. 2025-2035 –mp

13.5%

Blackberry, black cherry, leather, tar

Bramble, cassis, beef stock, vanilla

Grilled bone-in “cowboy” ribeye steak

4290 CHÂTEAU DUPLESSIS, AOC MOULIS-EN-MÉDOC, 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

$ 59 $ 354

Moulis-en-Médoc is nestled on the Left Bank, between the cru appellations of Margaux and Saint-Julien. This lesser-known vineyard area, grown on similar soils of gravel and limestone over deeper clays and silt, can offer great value. The Château Duplessis 2018 vintage has attractive fresh and baked fruit aromas with earthy, spicy undertones. The palate has good depth, brisk acidity, well integrated oak flavours and bold tannins. 2023-2033 –jb

Cassis, baked plum, licorice, cedar

Cassis, plum, dark chocolate, vanilla, spice

Lamb kebobs with ras el hanout

DON’T MISS OUR SAUTERNES MIXED CASE IN THE COLLECTOR’S CORNER

PAUILLAC

4262 LA FLEUR PAUILLAC, AOC PAUILLAC, 2014

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot

La Fleur Pauillac is the second wine from the Pauillac Producer’s Cooperative, a complement to their fine wine, La Rose Pauillac. True to Pauillac’s powerful character, this 2014 vintage is full-bodied with a concentrated core of cassis, fresh eucalyptus notes and spicy oaked nuances. Finegrained tannins frame the long finish nicely. Drinking well now. 2023-2029 –jb

Slow-roasted Moroccan lamb shoulder

SAUTERNES

4291 CHÂTEAU D'ARCHE, GRAND CRU CLASSÉ, AOC SAUTERNES, 2013

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle

Château d'Arche is another zippy, complete 2013. The aromas are concurrent with a decade of bottle age – lemon pith, dried peach and apricot, coconut. The palate is linear yet complex, making a mark with zingy tropical fruit, marzipan, grilled peanuts and raisins. The nuanced interplay between fruit and creamy, textual oak signals classed growth territory. 2027-2035 –mp

4263 LE CLOS DES PINS, AOC GRAVES, 2022

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris

This wine entices with its vivacity despite a very warm vintage. An attractive nose reveals guava, mango, tinned peaches, dried honey and wet wool. On the palate, thirst-quenching fresh citrus fruit (lemon and lime) trades with candied pink grapefruit and apricot. This is at its spritely best now. 2023-2025 – mp

Guava, tinned peaches, dried honey, wet wool

Lemon, lime, candied pink grapefruit, apricot, [0.00]

Triple crème Saint-André

Pan-seared scallops with lemon-braised

Cassis, dark cherry, licorice, cedar

Cassis, plum, eucalyptus, baking spice

Lemon pith, dried peach, dried apricot, coconut

Tropical fruit, marmalade, marzipan, grilled peanuts and raisins, [103.00]

celeriac

Entre-Deux-Mers

The Entre-Deux-Mers appellation covers an expansive area between Bordeaux’s two rivers, the Garonne and Dordogne. It is worth pointing out that polyculture is common here, so not all the land is under vine. Soils are rich and cool, favouring the (earlier-ripening) white grape varieties, and the appellation has been uniquely thus since 1937. Nevertheless, there are some very good red wines, bottled as AC Bordeaux. The best EntreDeux-Mers examples embrace a forthright simplicity, immediate drinking pleasure, and a price in reach of most wallets.

The 2019 was an excellent, ripe yet balanced vintage in Bordeaux. The Château Haut-Peyrat Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux is a fine example. Heady aromas of ripe and baked fruit mingle with spiced, cedar, and earthy nuances on the nose. The palate is very suave and fresh, with ripe, chalky tannins. Drinking well now. 2023-2030 –jb

4264

CHÂTEAU HAUT PEYRAT, AOC CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, ISABELLE & DIDIER GIL, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

4307

DOMAINE DE ROUMAUD, AOC BORDEAUX, BLANC, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc is the main grape in this unoaked Bordeaux Blanc, giving racy acidity and citrussy flavours. An addition of 15% Sémillon brings a subtle roundness and weight to the mid-palate. Finishes crisp and dry with lingering grapefruit and peppery hints. Easy drinking, youthful white wine. 2023-2026 –jb

Lemon, white pepper, wild herbs

Lemon, sour peach, pink grapefruit, [1.00]

Arugula salad with lemon

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

Baked red and black fruit, nutmeg, cedar, leafy

Baked red and dark fruit, smoky, meaty

Boeuf Bourguignon (but save some Cadillac for a chocolate dessert)

4266

CUVÉE WILSON SILLA, AOC BORDEAUX, BLANC, CHÂTEAU CHARREAU, 2021

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

$ 38 $ 228

An equal parts blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, aged in French oak with regular lees stirring. This brings a rich, opulent mouthfeel. High, nervy acidity lifts the weighty palate and gives a sense of brightness to the citrus, stone fruit, and buttery pâtisserie notes. Should pair nicely with soft cheeses. 2023-2027–jb

Lemon curd, toasty, white blossoms, fresh hay

Lemon, custard, apricot, herbal hints, [0.00]

Époisses de Bourgogne

4265

CUVÉE WILSON SILLA, CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, CHÂTEAU CHARREAU, 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

A classically styled Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot blend, with a taut, tannic frame. Very inviting on the nose with its fresh dark fruit, floral aromas. The palate is very fresh, with good depth of flavour, and harmonious oaked nuances. Tightly knit but quite elegant. 2023-2030 –jb

Cassis, plum, floral, cedar

Cassis, plum, exotic spice, dark chocolate

Château Charreau is situated in the village of Verdelais in the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. The proximity to the Garonne River with its fresh breezes and propensity for morning fog allows for the production of dry whites, red wines, and dessert wines. Silla and Wilson Girotti established the winery in 1960. They have since passed the reigns to their three sons. $ 43 $ 258

Smokehouse ribeye burger with aged Gouda

CHÂTEAU CHARREAU

Château Vermont

Elisabeth Dufourg and David Labat area an ambitious couple. She is a fourth generation family winemaker; he has amassed 20 years’ experience as a négociant. Looking to put their corner of the Entre-Deux-Mers on the map, they built a new winery in 2010 and in 2012 restructured their vineyard to identify parcels suitable for a special cuvée. They have succeeded in crafting atypical, commanding wines that punch well above their weight. They farm sustainably, use zero herbicides, and are bee-friendly. David is also the current Président du Syndicat de l’Entre-deux-Mers.

CHÂTEAU VERMONT, SENSATION BLANC, AOC BORDEAUX BLANC, 2021

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Sauvignon Gris

This has a coastal nose of prairie grass, petit pois, green beans and gooseberry. The palate is medium-bodied and direct, with additional notes of sweet conference pear. This is a simple, easy quaffer suitable for all occasions. Drink now – mp

Prairie grass, petit pois, green beans, gooseberry

photo — Château Vermont in all its splendor.

CELLAR 305 — QUEBEC

4270

L'ÂME DE CHÂTEAU VERMONT, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot

This has a concentrated nose of blackcurrant, cigar box, and pencil shavings. The pallet bursts with ripe cassis, pomegranate and leather, plus cooler forest floor and damp earth. The tannins are robust. Exceptionally well-made at this price, this is Bordeaux wizardry of the highest calibre. 2026-2030 – mp

Blackcurrant, bramble, cigar box, pencil shavings

Cassis, pomegranate, leather, forest floor

Moroccan-seasoned roast chicken

4268

CHÂTEAU VERMONT LA GRANDE CUVÉE ROUGE, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, 2020

Merlot, Petit Verdot

A somewhat atypical nose of ripe cassis with mint, crushed black pepper and cooked plum. The pallet offers an intense and beguiling profile with more ripe cassis, blueberry, graphite, and nuanced oak. The tannins are for the long haul: ripe and firmly structured and this could well go the distance. 2025-2030 –mp

4269

CHÂTEAU VERMONT LA GRANDE CUVÉE ROUGE, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, 2018 (MAGNUMS)

Merlot, Petit Verdot

2018 was a knockout vintage best savoured in the slow-maturing magnum format. The appealing nose reveals ripe blackcurrant, wet stone, and cedar. There is a bold, concentrated palate of cassis, blueberry, cinnamon, enhanced by a solid tannic backbone. As a Bordeaux Supérieur, this is unbeatable. 2023-2028–mp

Wild mushroom galette with thyme

blueberry, sandalwood, cinnamon

Balsamic-glazed roasted vegetable medley

Ripe cassis, mint, crushed black pepper, cooked plum

Ripe cassis, blueberry, pencil shavings, damp earth

Blackcurrant, wet stone, vanilla, cedar

Cassis,

photo — The Labat family enjoying a glass of Vermont's wine.

CHÂTEAU ROQUEFORT

4292 CHÂTEAU LES TUILERIES, AOC BORDEAUX, ROUGE, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

28

4272

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT, MERLOT-CABERNET SAUVIGNON, AOC BORDEAUX, FAMILLE GADRAS, 2020

168

Château Les Tuileries does not profess to be a first growth, but what it does, it does very well. There is definition in the ripe blackcurrant on the nose, and just enough oak to add balance. Blackberry, damson, bramble, and clover follow on the palate. The oak notes – cedar and liquorice – are in welcome harmony. Fine tannins and fresh acidity are the framework for this classically poised, mid-life Bordeaux. 2023-2028 – mp

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 26 $ 156

Robust, easy-going, and mature. A hearty nose of stewed plums, forest fruits, and a whiff of dark chocolate. A medium-bodied palate of baked raspberry and black plum framed by ripe tannins. Medium finish. 2023-2024 – mp

Ripe blackcurrant, cassis, redcurrant, cedar

Ripe blackcurrant, damson, clover, liquorice

Spice-crusted ahi tuna

Stewed plums, blackberry, raspberry, dark chocolate

Baked raspberry, black plum, bramble, redcurrant

Gigot d’agneau with maple glaze

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT

The Gadras family are the longterm owners of this estate in the far north of Entre-Deux-Mers, at Naujan-et-Postiac, just a few miles south of the Dordogne confluence. The house style is lean, forward, and immensely drinkable. Traditionally farmers, they have been making wine for over 200 years, and, of late have focused more on the vineyards as climate change necessitates changes in management.

4271

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT

BLANC AND ROSÉ CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 26 $ 156

This mixed case from our friends at Clos du Prévôt is just the ticket for seasonal entertaining. There is a zingy white ideal with smoked salmon and a delicatelyflavoured rosé that will put a smile on the face of any veggie or vegan as it’s perfect with pasta and vegetable dishes.

FOLLOW THE TREND: PUT WHITE AND ROSÉ ON YOUR TABLE

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT, SAUVIGNON SÉMILLON, AOC BORDEAUX, FAMILLE GADRAS, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

A delicate nose revealing nectarine, elderflower, and orange. There are flavours of lemon pith and zest, fresh gooseberry, quince and apple on the delicate palate. Both the Sauvignon and Sémillon show well. This has spring to it, with a good swirl of citrus to finish. 2023-2024– mp

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT, CABERNET FRANC-MERLOT, ROSÉ, AOC BORDEAUX, FAMILLE GADRAS, 2022

Franc, Merlot

This would go down a treat on a hot summer’s day. It has a delicate, strawberryscented nose. Hints of candy floss add a playful dimension. Jasmine plays foil to just-picked summer fruits on the wispy palate. A simple, honest rosé of charming disposition. 2023-2024– mp

Cabernet

Strawberry, candyfloss, raspberry, jasmine

Strawberry, candyfloss, raspberry, jasmine, [0.00]

Herbed turkey en papillote

Nectarine, elderflower, candle wax, orange

Lemon zest, gooseberry, quince, apple, [0.00]

Pasta primavera

BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK

The right bank is more low-key and experimental than the old money arena of Bordeaux city and the rive gauche. Merlot is its trump card although Cabernet Franc often plays a pivotal role in adding grip and structure to the wines. Geographically, its appellations lie on the eastern flank of the Dordogne river. The first is Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, approximately 50km to the city’s east. Its wines are ripe, generous, and best drunk young. Directly to the north of Castillon is Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. Unique

among the Libournais appellations, it permits white grape varieties. The whites are immediate, while the best reds can last a decade. Adjacent, Saint-Émilion is the largest and most universally recognised of the right bank appellations, famous both for its Roman heritage and for the great estates situated on its central limestone plateau. Both Merlot and Cabernet Franc shine here. To its northwest, the pocket of Pomerol is as illustrious as it is discreet. A bonus for Merlot lovers is LalandeDe-Pomerol, north of Pomerol

across the Barbanne River. The soils here are cooler, but the wines can still be excellent and often trade at favourable prices. The Dordogne snakes around for another 20 or so kilometres before it comes to Bourg. Cabernet Sauvignon is of greater importance here; Merlot, however, is still the principal grape variety. The vineyards are influenced by their exposure to the Atlantic, and the fragrant wines are enjoyable in their youth. Blaye is Bourg’s bigger brother and its wines share a similar profile.

photo — Vignobles Arbo's oak barrels cellar.

VIGNOBLES ARBO

Bernadette Arbo has worked tirelessly to rekindle the family estate established by her greatgreat grandfather before his untimely passing during the Great War. Together with her husband, Joseph, she has expanded and developed the estate since 1998 which now comprises 51 hectares across both Castillon and Francs – all of which is farmed sustainably. Bernadette has a particular fondness for Malbec, bottling production of her onehectare parcel as a varietal Côtes de Bordeaux.

4274

LES MOULINS DE COUSSILLON, CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES ARBO, 2018

Merlot, Cabernet Franc

EXPERIENCE THE RIGHT BANK: BOTH CLASSIC AND CONTEMPORARY

CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

4273

CHÂTEAU BEL-AIR, AOC CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Castillon, a cooler, hilly extension of Saint-Émillion, is well-placed to adjust to increasingly warmer vintages and merits a detour as a source of good quality, good value Bordeaux. The nose here is well defined, offering notes of blackcurrant, liquorice, and Byng cherry. Where there are vegetal notes they are attractive and offer a sense of place. The palate reveals a pleasant dryness (cedar) that is well balanced by the reappearance of ripe blackcurrant, lifted further by tinned strawberries. 2023-2028 – mp

Now in impressive harmony, this opens with cooked plum, black cherry, cassis, cedar, menthol and incense. It continues to convince on the palate, with a concentrated core of red and black fruit ably supported by ripe, firm tannins and refreshing acidity. 2018 was a good vintage, but this exceeds expectations.

2023-2026 – mp

Malbec

Big and bold. Aromas of ripe black fruit, camphor, stewed plum and cedar. This has plenty of body and structure with complex fruit and oakderived flavours (cassis, black cherry, oriental spice, cedar). This is a rather delicious glass of Malbec – a grape that struggles to reach full maturity in its homeland with the ease it seems to adopt in Argentina. 2025-2030 – mp

Cassis, black cherry, oriental spice, cedar

Five spice-marinated flank steak

Ripe blackcurrant, camphor, stewed plum, cedar

4275

ARBO MALBEC, AOC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES ARBO, 2019

Blackcurrant, liquorice, Byng cherry, undergrowth

Ripe blackcurrant, tinned strawberries, cedar, undergrowth

Warm wild mushroom and cheese dip

Cooked plum, black cherry, menthol, incense

Cooked plum, raspberry, cassis, cedar

Grilled bavette with blue cheese compound butter

FRANCS CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

4276

CHÂTEAU PUYANCHÉ, FRANCS CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, BLANC, VIGNOBLES ARBO, 2021

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon NEW

Pronounced nose. A hint of botrytis then vanilla, pineapple, cedar, clove, and candle wax. This is a full-bodied white with the oak very much to the fore on the palate in a way that by no means dominates the whole. There is complex ripe fruit – tinned peaches, lychee and passionfruit. The length is excellent and the balance between the components nicely judgedthose looking for a big white (or an alternative to white Rioja) could do worse than stop here. 2023-2028 –mp

Vanilla, pineapple, cedar, clove

Cedar, toasted almond, tinned peaches, lychee, passionfruit, [0.00]

Seafood medley in creamy wine-garlic sauce

4277

TERRE DE CERF, FRANCS CÔTES

DE BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES ARBO, 2016

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Fully mature, jovial Bordeaux with notes of baked plum, forest floor and sandalwood. There is a fine acidity, and the tannins are well-integrated. It is testament to both the quality of the winemaking and the near perfect vintage conditions that this has enduring appeal.

Drink now – mp

CHÂTEAU GODARD BELLEVUE, FRANCS CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES ARBO, 2016

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Baked plum, forest floor, undergrowth, sandalwood

Baked plum, forest floor, undergrowth, sandalwood

Grilled sausages with fennel and peppers

Complex nose with secondary notes of cedar, cigar box, and forest floor mingled with blackberry, plum, and fruitcake. On the palate, there is ripe black fruit (damson, cooked plum) together with tertiary character of sweet spice and dried leaves. The finish reveals attractive fruit supported by dusty tannins and zesty acidity. This has stood the test of time.

Drink now – mp

Classic andouille and seafood jambalaya

Cedar, cigar box, blackberry, fruitcake

Damson, cooked plum, sweet spice, dried leaves

photo — Joseph Arbo in his vineyard.

VIGNOBLES EYMAS

Ulysse Eymas planted his first vineyard in Saint-Ciers-surGironde just after the Great War. A half century later, grandson Jean-Pierre Eymas settled in the nearby Saint-Palais area, expanding the vineyard, and establishing Château La Fleur Bellevue (originally Château Le Chêne Rond). Today, the estate spans 60-hectares of certified sustainable vineyards. Jérôme Eymas and his wife Valérie represent the fourth generation to head up this family winery.

4293

CHÂTEAU LA ROSE BELLEVUE, GRAPPE DIEM BLANC, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

A racy, citrus-driven Sauvignon Blanc blended with a small portion of aromatic Muscadelle. While this youthful white is barrel fermented and aged in new French oak, the imprint is not overpowering bringing more weight than flavour. Hints of toasty vanilla temper the nervy lemon, gooseberry notes. Finishes with a refreshing bitterness that only adds to its food friendly nature. 2023-2027–jb

4294

CHÂTEAU

LA

ROSE BELLEVUE,

GRAPPE DIEM ROUGE, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2020

The “Grappe Diem” blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc was aged for 12 months in oak. It has a savoury, earthy nature with discreet dark fruit flavours that will likely reveal themselves more fully over time. This is a dense, refreshing red with quite firm, fine-grained tannins. Decant for an hour before serving. 2024-2029 –jb

4295

CHÂTEAU LA GAMAYE ROUGE, CUVÉE PRESTIGE, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

$ 37 $ 222

A full-bodied, moderately firm blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. The nose offers invigorating notes of red and dark fruits, with meaty undertones. The palate is slightly more savoury, with broad, fine-grained tannins. Drinking well now. 2023-2030 –jb

Red currant, cassis, leather, meaty

Cassis, plum, tobacco, subtly savoury

Slow braise of beef cheeks à la Lyonnaise

Lemon zest, lime, gooseberry, bergamot

Lemon, gooseberry, earl grey tea, vanilla spice, 2.00]

Thai red curry vegetables

Cedar, sandalwood, pencil shavings, cassis

Woody, earthy, smoky, hints dark fruit

Duck pappardelle

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

4280 LITTLE DONKEY ROSÉ, VIN DE FRANCE, CHÂTEAU MARZIN, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

NEW PRODUCER

Château Marzin

The “Little Donkey” 2021 vintage rosé is broad and juicy on the palate with lipsmacking flavours of tart red fruit and citrus. The nose is fairly discreet upon pouring, but those patient enough to let the glass sit a couple of minutes will be rewarded with pretty floral nuances. Finishes smooth and dry. Drink now. 2023 –jb

Wildflowers, red apple, mixed citrus

Apple, cranberry, lemon, [0.00]

Veggie tartlets in puff pastry

4279

LITTLE DONKEY ROUGE, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, CHÂTEAU MARZIN, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

$ 34 $ 204 $ 36 $ 216

The “Little Donkey” 2019 vintage red wine is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small proportion of Cabernet Franc. Initially restrained on the nose with dark fruit, graphite and spiced notes emerging upon aeration. The palate is firm and tannic with lively acidity. 2025-2030 –jb

Cassis, incense, pencil shavings, spice

Tangy red and dark fruit, meaty hints

Grilled filet mignon with mango-chipotle salsa

BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

Château Marzin is a newly certified organic property in the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. Located across the Gironde Estuary from the Haut Médoc, Blaye produces good value red wines on its clay and limestone soils. The affable Pierre Marzin produces rosé and red wines from his 12 hectares estate vineyards planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc.

REGION FOR THIS CELLAR

photo — The village of Blaye is home to Château Marzin.

4282 CHÂTEAU MARZIN, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, 2016

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

37

This signature red wine from Château Marzin features Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 10% Cabernet Franc. The 2016 vintage was particularly well regarded in Bordeaux for its ripe yet fresh, balanced nature. This high-toned red wine is taut and chiselled in style, with an appealing mix of tangy and ripe fruit flavours. Earthy, mineral nuances linger on the finish. 2023-2027–jb

cassis, licorice, clove

Raspberry, plum, tobacco, hints of cumin

Melange of roasted vegetables and mushrooms with Tunisian seasoning

4281

L'ÂNE, AOC BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, CHÂTEAU MARZIN, 2019 Malbec

The “L’Âne” cuvée is made exclusively from the Malbec grape. This is quite rare to see in Bordeaux. Château Marzin has crafted this 2019 vintage in a dense, powerful style with lavish toasty oak. The dark fruit flavours are very ripe and jammy. Finishes with marked, grippy tannins. 2025-2030 –jb

Stewed dark fruit, exotic spice, violet, cedar

Vanilla, toasted, spicy

Mushroom-stuffed peppers with Gorgonzola

Raspberry,

SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU

Clos

Cantenac

For many centuries St-Émilion went unnoticed as a wine-producing area. During the 19th century, increasing trade with northern Europe, allied with organizational competence, and promotional flair, gave the region momentum. While the Médoc’s pedigree is anchored in the illustrious (but outdated) classification of 1855, St-Émilion’s latest classification dates from 2022. It is accurate and revised every ten years, despite the political headache that this brings. Much of the appellation is planted with Merlot, a safe bet on cool, clay-based soils over limestone, although Cabernet Franc performs better in gravelly areas. St-Émilion is known for the very high calibre of its wines, which are generally more supple and approachable than those of the left bank.

FRANCE

photo — Precision and concentration are the rule at Clos Cantenac as the precious fruit tumbles into place. CELLAR

L'EXUBERANCE ROSÉ DU CLOS CANTENAC, AOC BORDEAUX ROSÉ, 2022

4224

Clos Cantenac is a small, six-hectare Grand Cru property situated in western St-Émilion, near the port town of Libourne. Owner Martin Krajewski has invested considerably in recent years including a new chai and laboratory in 2015. In 2017 his daughter, Charlotte, joined the team as chief winemaker after stints at Elephant Hill and Trinity Hill in New Zealand. Critics have united in hailing Clos Cantenac as a rising star.

Attractive and complex nose even at this stage. Ripe red fruit including redcurrant, cherry, tinned strawberry together with rose petal, hawthorn, and elderflower. The medium-bodied palate is hugely convincing, showing a concentration of red apple, raspberry, cherry, and strawberry that glides effortlessly across the tongue. Wellbalanced by the acidity. 2023-2024 – mp

ELÉGANCE DU CLOS CANTENAC, AOC BORDEAUX ROSÉ, WOOD CASE

Merlot

Perfumed, elegant aromas (the clue is in the name) including strawberry, redcurrant, wild rose, and hawthorn carry over onto the palate. This is inviting and it doesn’t lack for concentration, either. Really shows what can be done in Bordeaux if one wants to make a decent rosé: perfect weight and intensity of fruit together with linear poise and a mouthwatering acidity. 2023-2024– mp

Assorted pâtés, terrines and cured meats

Salade Niçoise

Redcurrant, red cherry, rose petal, hawthorn

Red apple, raspberry, cherry, strawberry, [3.00]

Strawberry, redcurrant, wild rose, hawthorn

Strawberry, redcurrant, wild rose, hawthorn, [3.00]

CLOS CANTENAC, AOC SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Franc

This is still developing but promises much. Complex aromas of crushed blackberry, blueberry, liquorice, sawdust, and iodine. On the full-bodied palate, the acidity is barely noticeable - quite an achievement in 2021! Instead, there is a wealth lush black cherry and plum. The tannins are a high point, robust and with a wonderfully dusty character. Although the oak is just a little exposed at the moment, it will integrate with time. All the flavours sustain and move towards a very impressive coda. Bravo! 2028-2035 –mp

Crushed blackberry, blueberry, sawdust, iodine

Black cherry, black plum, liquorice, vanilla

Cassoulet with saucisse de Toulouse

50 photo — Charlotte's beaming smile confirms the lusciousness of the wine in her glass.

CELLAR

A sculptured, angular nose of blackcurrant, sweet spice, and graphite. The palate offers layers of aromatic fruit – plum, blackcurrant – plus Christmas cake, vanilla, and liquorice. The seamless integration of oak and tannin leave no doubt that this elegant and succulent wine will soon be ready to drink, however, the winemaking skill is such that it will happily spend time in the cellar. 2026-2030 – mp

Blackcurrant, sweet spice, graphite, pencil shavings

Plum, blackcurrant, Christmas cake, liquorice

Blackened salmon with blackberry glaze

photo — Not one Merlot berry is allowed to pass without the team's approval!

SPIRITS

France has built a steady reputation of late for vodkas, though this limited-edition collection rather splendidly gate-crashes the party. This is a premium product, with the wheat grown in Champagne-Ardennes and the wash distilled in Cognac. However, the highlights are, undoubtedly, the hedonistic labels exclusively designed by two talented young artists.

4283

700ml

REMYX VODKA CASE: 1 BOTTLE EACH: COSMIQUE AND AQUATIQUE

A devilishly aromatic nose is filled with grape, vanilla, rosewater, and Parma violets. The palate, fresh and pungent, offers a similar Muscat-like arrangement, with the addition of a hint of lime leaf. The finish is punchy, never losing sight of its aromatic base. – mp

Grape, vanilla, rosewater, Parma violets

Grape, vanilla, rosewater, lime leaf

Finish Punchy and grapey

SPIRITS

Whisky

G. ROZELIEURES

This is a delicate affair with subtle aromas of flour, oatmeal, husk and a hint of aniseed slowly making their mark on a slender nose. A breath of sweetness marks the sleek, soft palate, which has a pure, grain-led feel. The delicate mouthfeel has considerable potential as a base for classic cocktails.– mp

Flour, oatmeal, husk, hint of aniseed Flour, oatmeal, husk, sweet anise

Grain-led and delicate

If God had drawn up a shortlist of beverage matches made in heaven, Whisky from Vosne-Romanée would surely be a candidate! Maybe this is old news, given that the Scots source a great deal of their barley from northern France. In today’s centralised world, very few distilleries can claim ownership of production right through from field to shop floor. It takes a particular mindset, which Rozelieures masters with aplomb.

A gentle spirit that resembles a favourite Speyside pair of slippers, this ex-sherry cask is deep amber in colour, revealing a beguiling nose of popcorn, sweet spice, dried honey, apple, and pear. The barrel time has not dimmed, but rather fine-tuned its zeal, lending a palate of rich orchard fruit, apple blossom, honey and grilled nuts. The finish is long and utterly composed.– mp

Popcorn, sweet spice, dried honey, apple

Orchard fruits, apple blossom, honey, grilled nuts Full and rapturous

SINGLE MALTS HAVE GONE "FRANÇAIS"; WATCH OUT SCOTLAND!

4285

G. ROZELIEURES SINGLE MALT WHISKY CASE: 1 BOTTLE EACH: ORIGINE, RARE, FUMÉ

$ 141 $ 423

Taste these whiskies blind, and they are a dead ringer for Scotch. There is no question the climates are different – there is nothing maritime about Burgundy – so it is a question of great technical expertise. That said, these expressions are free-flowing and unique, and in any competition they would steal a share of the limelight.

A golden-hued elixir of coastal air, light peat smoke, lemon, gingerbread, and rye bread. The palate dances enticingly, as if sprung from some far off island campfire, with smoked fish, raw meat, cinder toffee, and popcorn trading moves in harmonious choreography. Both powerful and graceful, it leads to a long, captivating finish.– mp

G. ROZELIEURES, SINGLE MALT WHISKY, ORIGINE COLLECTION

Finish Long and graceful

An accomplished bourbon-cask expression. The medium-amber nose is full of popcorn, oatmeal, allspice, barley sugar, and rye bread. On the palate the alcohol and oak are kept seamlessly in check by a driving, lingering array of malt, cereal, pear, apple, dried honey and linseed. The complex finish is impressive.– mp

Popcorn, oatmeal, allspice, barely sugar, rye bread

Malt, cereal, pear, apple, dried honey and linseed

Finish Powerful and long

An adventurous, medium-amber expression aged in ex-wine barrels from France’s South West. The nose brings oatmeal, barley, and honey mingled with savoury dill and olive. The spartan palate reveals toasted notes, a whiff of peat smoke, and barley sugar. Medium, savoury notes on the finish.– mp

Toasted notes, a whiff of peat smoke, barley sugar, malt

Finish Savoury, with subtle peat

G. ROZELIEURES, SINGLE MALT WHISKY, FUMÉ COLLECTION

G. ROZELIEURES, SINGLE MALT WHISKY, RARE COLLECTION

Coastal air, light peat smoke, lemon, gingerbread

Smoked fish, raw meat, cinder toffee, popcorn

Oatmeal, honey, dill, olive

CHÂTEAU SÉRAPHINE

POMEROL

If St. Émilion has surprisingly little lineage for its magnitude, Pomerol has less. Although certain estates –Trotanoy, Pétrus – were well-known by the late 19th Century, most of the region remained off radar until the late 1950s. Moreover, and despite its superstar reputation for Merlot, it was only at this point that Cabernet Franc was usurped as the number one grape variety. In the 19th C Pomerol was still an area of white wine production. Less is more in Pomerol. There is no classification system, and few glitzy châteaux. Wines like Le Pin, with its minute quantities, have attracted interest from critics and collectors alike. The best wines, if one is lucky enough to get the opportunity to drink them, combine grace and power in equal measure.

Château Séraphine is the second Bordelais acquisition of Englishman, Martin Krajewski. His daughter, Charlotte, is the winemaker here and at Clos Cantenac. She employs a minimalistic and 'hands off' approach, to both acclaim and effect.

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

"A RISING STAR IN POMEROL" - JANE ANSON, DECANTER MAGAZINE

4231 CHÂTEAU SÉRAPHINE, AOC POMEROL, 2021, WOOD CASE

4232 L'INNOCENCE DE SÉRAPHINE, AOC POMEROL, 2021

Utterly captivating from the first aroma. Discreet bundles of blackcurrant, red plum, spice and oak on the nose. It is undeniably young, but already one detects a multitude of flavours: blackcurrant, bramble, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, cocoa, and olive. The dense fruit core is wrapped in muscular tannins. This is a megaton of full-bodied red Bordeaux that just leaps from the glass. Give it time and this will flourish. 2030-2038– mp

Filigree aromatics of peonies, violets, and andalwood. The palate offers cassis and plum pudding astride cedar and vanilla, remaining light on its toes. This is elegant claret with satisfying dusty tannins. It has the necessary concentration, grip, and length for inclusion at the top table. 2026-2030– mp

Blackcurrant, bramble, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, cocoa, olive

Chinese-style duck pancakes with hoisin

Blackcurrant, red plum, spice, oak

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Peonies, violets, sandalwood, cassis

Cassis, plum pudding, cedar, vanilla

Portabello mushroom burger with porcini and garlic butter

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Despite miniscule yields and an enduring reputation for excellence, the last 25 years have not been kind to Sauternes. Changing consumer tastes have led to a decline in interest for sweet wines and hence dwindling returns for the estates whose wines are the product of a painstaking harvest and capricious weather. Many now eschew the Place de Bordeaux in favour of a network of private customers. It’s a great pity –these are some of the world’s most age worthy and compelling sweet wines and are increasingly looking like exceptional value.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON, AOC SAUTERNES, 2013

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON, AOC SAUTERNES, 2014

CHÂTEAU HAUT BERGERON SAUTERNES VERTICAL TASTING CASE: 1 BOTTLE EACH: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

While 2013 was a washout for dry Bordeaux, Sauternes was dealt a winning hand. This is fresh, racy, and assured. Aromas of orange blossom and nectarine lead to a taut palate with classic notes of apricot, honey, crème pâtissière and mango. Linear and refined. 2023-2029 – mp

2014’s damp opening gambit did not auger well and yet a long extended summer allowed for successive pickings of tropical styled, botrytis-affected fruit. This is one of those welcome surprises from an on/off vintage. Drink now, and enjoy its maturity – mp

Foie gras toasts and Roquefort

Pan-seared foie gras with port wine and fig sauce

Orange blossom, nectarine, honey, toast

Apricot, honey, crème pâtissière, mango, [140.00]

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

Honey, caramel, butterscotch, mango

Honey, caramel, butterscotch, mango, [148.00]

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON, AOC SAUTERNES, 2015

Sauvignon Blanc

One for those who like their Sauternes with oomph. A vibrant nose of pineapple, marmalade and toast presages a palate of tremendous power sporting notes of marmalade, orange blossom, coconut, coffee, vanilla and whipping cream. This would be lost without acidity, but it delivers, bouncing to a lingering finish of honey and tropical fruits. 2024-2030–mp

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON, AOC SAUTERNES, 2016

Sauvignon Blanc

Fully mature Sauternes with rich aromas of honey and almond. The palate is loaded with heather honey, marmalade, and dried apricot. Every so often a hint of roasted nuts peeks through the ensemble, as if to say ‘drink me now’. A delicious glass of dessert wine. 2023-2026 – mp

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

This Lamothe family share an impressive 200-plus years of vinous history. Robert Lamothe was founder and president of the Maison du Sauternes for 33 years until 2005. His sons, Hervé and Patrick, are now in charge of the estate. They have navigated the changing winds of fashion by introducing a modern, approachable, second wine and different cuvées. In the 2000s they converted to sustainable viticulture, long before it was a national imperative.

creme brûlée

QUINTESSENTIAL DESSERT WINES FOR CONNAISSEURS AND NEOPHYTES ALIKE.

Pineapple, marmalade, honey, toast

Marmalade, orange blossom, coconut, tropical fruits, [150.00]

Tarte aux abricot

Sémillon,

NEW

Honey, almond, honeysuckle, baking spices

Heather honey, marmalade, dried apricot, almond, [144.00]

Amaretto

Sémillon,

NEW

4308

CUVÉE D'OR DU CHÂTEAU DAUPHINÉ RONDILLON, AOC LOUPIAC, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2015

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

Please visit Opimian.ca for your province's pricing on these wines.

For a noble late harvest wine this is voluptuous, and one really gets a sense of provenance – this is from the estate’s historic 100-year-old vines. The bouquet, resplendent with intense honey and dried apricot, has just tipped over into full maturity. Rich and powerful on the palate, there is coconut, tropical fruit, grilled nuts, and a hint of caramel. 2026-2026 –mp

CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

4309

PETITE MARINE LE ROSÉ, AOC BORDEAUX, THE DARRIET FAMILY, 2022

Sauvignon

The Petite Marine Cabernet Sauvignon rosé is fermented at cool temperatures and briefly aged in stainless steel tanks to highlight its fresh, fruity character. Thirst quenching acidity defines the lightweight palate. Finishes dry with tart red fruit and earthy nuances. Great with grilled fish. 2023 –jb

Tart red fruits, citrus, earthy undertones,

Honey, ripe apricot, pineapple, caramel

Honey, ripe apricot, pineapple, caramel, [100.00]

Roquefort cheese

Cranberry, red currant, pink grapefruit

[2.00]

Cajun grilled black cod

Cabernet

4310

CHÂTEAU DE ROUQUETTE, AOC CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2020

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

$WEB $WEB

Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux is an appellation in the Entre-Deux-Mers area of Bordeaux. The area is known for its sweet wines, but also produces fine, structured red wines on its rolling hills. The Château de Rouquette 2020 has intense, ripe aromas and flavours. The palate is quite bold and youthful at present. Needs time for the grippy tannins and oaked nuances to harmonize further. 2025-2032 –jb

LALANDE DE POMEROL

4296

CHÂTEAU PAVILLON DE BEAUREGARD, AOC LALANDE DE POMEROL, 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

3

$WEB $WEB

Château Pavillon has a very appealing nose that is not showy but rather discreet. It merits attention because the layers are considerable – ripe black plum, fruitcake, liquorice, wet stone, leather, and gamey notes. The medium-bodied palate is equally multi-faceted – blackcurrant, plum, cherry, and mineral. The extraction is delicate and deliberate, and a great deal of thought has gone into it. Already very accomplished, this will only improve as it takes on more tertiary character. 2025-2030 –mp

Classic Chateaubriand

Ripe dark fruit, mocha, baking spice, cedar

Ripe dark fruit, mocha, baking spice

Duck terrine with quince jelly

Ripe black plum, fruitcake, liquorice, gamey notes

Blackcurrant, ripe black plum, cherry, wet stone

with shallot and tarragon

A FRIEND and Meet

Markus Molitor, “Mr. 300 Points”

Germany’s most awarded winemaker

Over 700 wines exclusive to Opimian, tasted and curated by our Masters of Wine 3 wine programs to chose from Online tastings with Masters of Wine and winemakers Wine education Travel Opportunities

In 2015, three of his wines from the 2013 vintage received a rating of 100 points from The Wine Advocate; thus his nickname, “Mr. 300 points” (Herr 300 Punkte in German). We are pleased to announce that Opimian has secured a small allocation of these outstanding wines from this brilliant winemaker. Don’t miss this opportunity to get your hands on these top-scoring wines, as they usually sell out in record time!

Get a friend to join Opimian and each of you will get a case of Opimian wine. Have them use OPIMIAN50 at checkout and we’ll do the rest.