ONE Issue No.13, Cover 2

ONE

ISSUE NO. 13

WINTER

MAGAZINE

NYC

2016 / 2017

the free issue

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N E W

Y O R K

C I T Y

B O S T O N

S A R A S O T A

E S TA B L I S H E D J U N E 2 0 1 0

CONTRIBUTORS

EDITORIALS

Simon Birk, Manolo Campion, Amar Paul Kalirai, Ruo Bing Li, Vinnie Liazza, Cristian Martinelli, Janne Rugland, Dennis Stenild, Alex Tr o m m l i t z , Fe l i x W o n g

FASHION DIRECTOR

Amarsana Gendunova

All designs, creative and art direction were completed and produced by Nicole Gavrilles © ONE Magazine Nicole Gavrilles 2016 ONEMAG.US

F E AT U R E S

Claudia Li

C O N TA C T U S

For questions or comments, email us at info.onemag@gmail.com

SHOP

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contents

n o .1 3

Open Area Photos by Janne Rugland

Room to Reign 138

Photos by Cristian Martinelli

Claudia Li — Cover Story 26

Photo by Manolo Campion

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Easy Goes It

Street Smart

Photos by Simon Birk

Photos by Ruo Bing Li

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the free issue

Infinite Youth Photos by Felix Wong

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Greetings from the Suburbs Photos by Vinnie Liazza

With the Wind 112

Photos by Dennis Stenild

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Modern Texture

Charlbi

Photos by Amar Paul Kalirai

Photos by Alex Trommlitz

greetings from the suburbs for one

greetings from the suburbs for one

ISSUE NO. 13

articles

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Interview — Claudia Li

Questions by Emily Fox Photos by Manolo Campion

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A Legacy of Empowerment

Letter from Editor

Written by Danielle Peterson

Written by Founder, Nicole Gavrilles

SWEET DISPOSITION NEVER TOO SOON, RECKLESS ABANDON, LIKE NO ONE'S WATCHING YOU, A MOMENT A LOVE, A DREAM ALOUD, A KISS A CRY, OUR RIGHTS, WRONGS 13

L E T T E R

F R O M

E D I T O R

When a free feeling can overcome you, it’s an incredible experience. You feel like no one or nothing can stop you or overcome that “no strings attached” sensation. The theme for this issue evolved from my interpretation as to where fashion is moving towards in the future. From Nicolas Ghesquière’s refresh of Louis Vuitton, to Alessandro Michele’s fairytale where he invited us all into the new world of Gucci, reinventing beauty from the inside out, and also Demna Gvasalia’s fresh outlook at Balenciaga, reinterpreting and defining a different attitude for the modern woman.

These creative directors, along with many others, keep providing a fresh look into where fashion is going and how the youthful generation of the free-minded and care-free mentality are shaping today’s fashion culture. I wanted to publish a theme that encapsulated the free “form” of energy, life, and excitement. And it’s result was beautiful and something I am very proud of. I hope this issue inspires you visually but also to take a minute to plan something for you and to encompass a free-feeling moment for the new year.

Over the past six and a half years, I never thought the magazine would be where it is today. So thankful for our incredibly talented contributors, designers for featuring your beautiful collections and our readers who have been either following us from the beginning or recently discovered us. A special thank you to Claudia Li and Monolo Campion on this beautiful feature. I hope you’re in love with it as much as we are! My passion to keep producing ONE comes from you all. Thank you for all of your contributions thus far with ONE. We are looking forward to exciting features and opportunities for ONE Magazine to bring fresh new content to you in the near future, stay tuned!

F O U N D E R , E D I T O R AT L A R G E , D E S I G N E R

Nicole Gavrilles

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op e n — Photography Janne Rugland Model Andrea R. Langfeldt at Team Models Styling Afaf Alil at Style management Hair & Makeup Jens Wiker at Style management

a re a ONE

jacket just female, shirt anne karine thorbjørson, t-shirt weekday

coat anne karine thorbjørnson, sweater filippa k, pants just female

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jacket h&m, turtleneck designers remix, collage sweater dr denim

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jackets hope, sweater second female, pants anne karine thorbjørson

silver jacket stella mccartney for adidas, collage sweater dr denim, skirt by malene birger, pants fwss, shoes adidas

coat anne karine thorbjørnson, turtleneck filippa k, sweater just female

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collage sweater dr denim, turtleneck designers remix

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jacket h&m, turtleneck designers remix, collage sweater dr denim, pants hope

jacket monki, pants fwss

jacket adidas, sweater kenzo, trousers hope

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teddy jacket h&m trend, black rain coat just female, sweater designers remix, shirt anne karine thorbjørson, pants hope

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jackets just female, shirt anne karine thorbjørson, t-shirt weekday, pants fwss, shoes adidas

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easy Photography Simon Birk at Agentur Cph Model Ellinor at Nisch Management Styling Nanna Flachs Hair Julie Garrett at Unique Creatives Makeup Lou Ditlevsen at Agentur Cph Photography Assistant Sofie Staunsager

go e s ONE

i t

trenchcoat totĂŠme

shirt, skirt & pants รกeron

ruffle shirt dorothe schumacher, pants by malene birger, shoes acne studios

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shirt af agger, skirt acne studios

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blazer hope stockholm, cardigan acne studios, pants marimekko, boots christian louboutin

suede jacket af agger, dress & other stories, pants by malene birger, shoes acne studios

jacket af agger, knit fonnesbech

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shirt & pants hope stockholm, boots christian louboutin

dress by malene birger, pants รกeron, boots christian louboutin

leather coat stouls

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shirtdress & culottes rodebejr knitted pants maikel tawadros

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dress & jacket issey miyake, boots lori silverman

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infi n i t e y o u t h Photography Felix Wong at Seen Artists Model Kriss Kulyk at Muse Management Styling Amarsana Gendunova Hair Kiri using Living Proof Makeup Mahfud for NARS cosmetics at Exclusive Artists Styling Assistant Daisha Antoinette Makeup Assistant Natasha Levanduski Studio & Equipment Dune Studios

ONE

jacket & jeans y/project available at odd. new york, bodysuit i.d. sarrieri, earrings amanda pearl

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jacket y/project available at odd. new york, dress jason wu, hosiery nicola messina, earrings & ring amanda pearl

cardigan & dress icb, shoes alexis gamblin

coat, top & pants victoria hayes, blouse kensie, earrings amanda pearl

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leather jacket elena benarroch, turtleneck marios available at odd. new york, earrings & ring amanda pearl

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sweater & pants jason wu

coat, dress & pants use unused belt y/project availavble at odd. new york

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g reetings

f ro m ONE

sweater tommy hilfiger, shirt puma, earrings mango, sunglasses stylist archive

Photography Vinnie Liazza Model Mara at Monster Mgmt Styling Serena Pompei Hair & Makeup Simona Parrella Styling Assistant Francesca Comune

th e s ubu r b s 51

dress ricostru, sweater 120%lino, shoes elvio zanon, socks benedict, earrings anteprima

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shirt miaoran, polo tommy hilfiger, pants primark, shoes anteprima, socks benedict, earrings opus4

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jacket puma, dress ports1961, shoes elvio zanon, socks benedict, earrings sharra pagano

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dress lucio vanotti, sweater levi's, shoes sonique, socks benedict, earrings anteprima

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sweater puma, dress melampo, earrings sharra pagano

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sweater tommy hilfiger, shirt puma, earrings mango

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jacket tommy hilfiger, shirt vitelli, jumpsuit drome, sunglasses stylist archive

total look anteprima, earrings sharra pagano

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total look anteprima, earrings sharra pagano

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sweater tommy hilfiger, shirt puma, dress lucio vanotti, shoes elvio zanon, socks benedict, earrings mango, sunglasses stylist archive

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ro o m Photography Cristian Martinelli Model Daniela S. at D Management Group Styling Valeria Semushina Hair & Makeup Sara Busan

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Assistants Valeria Raffaele, Martina Bruno Location My Little House, Milano Paintings / Wall Drawings Cristina Gardumi

re i g n blue shirt almaz, shirt & trousers sunnei, shoes sonora, earrings stylists archive

ONE

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top, jeans & skirt maison flaneur, pink dress caroline kummelstedt, shoes sonora, necklace marios

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trench misbhv, belt (worn as top) thomas wylde, belt with rings caroline kummelstedt, trousers exte, earrings vintage

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dress burberry, hoodie & shirt caroline kummelstedt, necklace gogo philip, tights pierre cardin

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sweater sunnei, necklace stylists archive

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jeans maison flaneur, shoes sonora, necklace gogo philip

top almaz, jeans y project, belts caroline kummelstedt, earrings stylists archive

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sweater & pants sunnei, necklace stylists archive, tights wolford

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trench misbhv

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sweater & trousers maison flaneur, belt caroline kummelstedt, tights wolford, shoes sonora

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c h ar— Photography Alex Trommlitz Model Charlbi Kriek at Ice Models Styling Leonie Gerner at Bigoudi Hair & Makeup Anja Fichtenmayer at Bigoudi

l b i ONE

shirt adidas, pants conleys

sweater acne studios

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body american apparel, pants levi's

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top acne studios, pants & other stories

scarf mawu, body american apparel

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top acne studios, pants & other stories

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shirt adidas, pants conleys

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w it h Photography Dennis Stenild at Filter Management Model Marina Sarovic at Le Management Styling Maria Angelova Hair & Makeup Jan Stuhr at Le Management Hair Makeup Assistant ShizĂźka Minagava Assistant Hannah Ferguson Retouching Post Studio

t h e w i n d ONE

jacket twins florence from iil7.dk

jacket & pants by malene birger, shirt balenciaga from mytheresa

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dress marni from birger christensen, shirt bau and pferdgarten, pants marc jacobs, shoes ganni

jacket ganni, top & pants martine jarlgaard from lot29

shirt balenciaga from mytheresa

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shirt joseph, pants marc jacobs

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jacket closed from mytheresa, shirt acne studios from mytheresa, pants burberry london from mytheresa

jacket a.p.c., shirt miu miu from mytheresa, pants etro from lot#29, shoes zara

shorts ganni

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shirt balenciaga from mytheresa

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jacket rick owens, shirt victoria victoria beckham from mytheresa, pants isabel marant

jacket caroline kummelsted, top victoria victoria beckham, trousers mcq alexander mcqueen from mytheresa

shirt balenciaga from mytheresa

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jacket caroline kummelsted from iil7.dk, shirt joseph, pants victoria victoria beckham from iil7.dk

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shirt bau und pferdgarten, pants marc jacobs, shoes ganni

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m o d e r n Photography Amar Paul Kalirai Model Helen at Premier Styling Natalia Paku Sukuda Hair Takuya Morimoto Makeup Kentaro Kondo at Eighteen Management using Mac Cosmetics

tex t

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jacket stella mccartney, dress sportmax

dress sportmax, jumper max mara, shoes louboutin for holly fulton

jacket chanel, high collar top kenzo, dress holly fulton

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long sleeve top haizhen wang, dress salvatore ferragamo

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coat/cape stella mccartney, shirt toga, trousers kenzo, heels loriblu

complete look peter pilotto, shoes kenzo

dress sportmax, jumper max mara

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complete look peter pilotto, shoes kenzo

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jacket regina pyo, shirt chalayan,

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stre et Photography Ruo Bing Li Model Unia Pakhomova at New York Models Styling Anthony Pedraza Hair Takayoshi Tsukisawa using Bumble and Bumble Makeup Juan Jaar Photography Assistant Heng Qing Zhao Post Production HQretouch All Clothing Public School SS17

sm a rt ONE

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all clothing public school ss17

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Claudia Li Photography Manolo Campion Models Kelsey Van Mook & Olivia Jansing at Next Styling Amarsana Gendunova Makeup Aya Komatsu at Bridge Artists Hair Fernando Torrent at L'Atelier Styling Assistant Emily Smith Questions Emily Fox

In the blustery weather of mid-December, it’s always a comfort to think of the coming spring. Luckily for me, I’ve been able to spend quite a bit of time entranced in the springtime hope that is Claudia Li’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection. It’s not just the promise of bare legs and big hair, but that of the soft pastel blues and yellows, and vibrant wine-reds, that Li’s newest collection entails. Details like oversized collars and superfluous ruffles that appear to revel with the delight of spring, are among the incredibly tactile, candy-coloured pieces

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earrings & ring laruicci

C L A U D I A L I • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 3

CLAUDIA LI

EARRINGS & RING LARUICCI

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shoes alg

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expressing myself through 3D rather than 2D helped to convey what I was trying to say. My childhood definitely helped influenced my entire life, as all of my collections are inspired by a moment or feeling I’ve experienced in the past.

available. In the conversation which follows, I was able to chat with Claudia Li about not just this superb collection, but the equalling stunning soul of an artistdesigner.

— so, to begin with, give us a little background; how did you get into design? has this been something you have always wanted to do, or did you fall into it? before you started free-lancing with jonathan anderson, what did you do? what was your childhood like? how has your childhood influenced (or not influenced) your art?

— i’ve been enjoying looking at photos of your most recent collection, as well as those of previous collections; it seems you enjoy using over-sized pieces of asymmetrical fabric. what led you to this idea? what was your inspiration or intention?

CL: I like draping and making things structural and feminine but that still have a sense of masculinity to it.

I don’t see gender in my clothing and design pieces that several different people could wear.

Claudia Li: At some point I realized that I could tell my stories better through fashion. I’ve always known that I liked fashion, but after studying painting, I found that

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earrings laruicci, shoes polder

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CLAUDIA LI

EARRINGS & RING LARUICCI

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— do you find yourself focusing more on texture, or structure? why are these elements of design important to you? how do you use them to express yourself?

responding to design as an artistic outlet, as opposed to how you may have found yourself responding to paint?

CL: I guess both but perhaps now more on structure.

Texture is important to me because it has a direct link to how I painted when I was in fine arts. I guess I’m more drawn to structure now because I’ve always expressed textures in painting which was 2D but in my head everything has always been in 3D, which was also one of the main reasons why I decided to change my form of expression. I think 3D and structure definitely expresses what’s in my mind more.

— what is your process of creation? as a former painter, how do you find yourself

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CL: I always try to tell a story with each collection.

Whether it’s something that i’ve experienced, a period of my life, or a story from someone I’ve come across.

I want the audience to be able to make a personal connection with the collection, which is definitely an artistic expression which is what I did with painting, as well. I guess to me personally, through fashion I could tell a story more in depth and make a deeper connection with my audience than when I was painting. I also feel that it’s super important to me that the connection I make with the audience is not just intangible. Through fashion my audience can also make a very personal and physical connection to the story and the feeling/mood.

C L A U D I A L I • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 3

CLAUDIA LI

EARRINGS ANNELISE MICHELSON

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shoes polder

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earrings laruicci, shoes polder

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"Even when I was painting I u s e d d i ff e r e n t m a t e r i a l s . T h e r e was something really feminine about my paintings, but also very structural and masculine.

When I drape, it's more about l e tt i n g t h e m a t e r i a l s e x p r e s s themselves than forcing them to b e s o m e t h i n g t h e y ' r e n o t ."

— CLAUDIA LI

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CLAUDIA LI

EARRINGS ANNELISE MICHELSON

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earrings sorelle

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CLAUDIA LI

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— as a student of art history, i would often be faced with the criticism that fashion is not art (obviously by somewhat narrowminded people). as someone familiar with the art world, and a designer of such obviously artistic pieces, i wonder if you have been faced with the same criticism yourself?

CL: It is debatable because there are fine artists who express themselves with installations with fashion involved. For example, designers who create ceramic frocks – people won’t debate that it’s not art. But if a fashion designer tries to express oneself with fabric they would debate that it’s not art. To me personally, I think fashion is not necessarily fine arts but is definitely a form of artistic expression.

— if fashion is your method of expressing yourself, it is a medium much like paint. what was it about fashion that made you feel more at home than you did when you were a painter?

CL: In my mind, ideas are 3D. I found that through fashion I could really express everything that’s in my head much more thoroughly, much more in depth and much more emotionally. I feel like the stories I try to tell come alive in a collection and that it makes a much much deeper connection between me, the collection and the audience. I wouldn’t say that I feel more at home, because it comes with a different set of challenges than painting. But, I just find it so fascinating how an intangible feeling and story becomes a collection that touches the audience. First, as something intangible, then something that becomes tangible as you touch and feel every piece on your body. I find that connection incredible.

to view claudia li's current collection and past collections, visit claudia-li.com

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SONIA RYKIEL FW16

SONIA RYKIEL FW16

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a legacy of empowerment

Saying Goodbye to Sonia Rykiel Words Danielle Peterson Images InDital Images, Go Runway & First View

Called the “Queen of Knitwear” in the 1970s and remembered as a pioneer, a mother, a writer and an artist, French designer Sonia Rykiel lost her battle to Parkinson’s on August 25 and passed away at the age of 86. Rykiel, an easily recognizable figure in the fashion world due to her thick bangs, red hair, and heavily massacred eyes, had been battling with the disease for almost 20 years. ​

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Born Sonia Flis in 1930, Rykiel was the oldest of five daughters and grew up in Neuilly-sur-Seine, France. She started working as a window dresser in Paris when she was 17 and gained artist Henri Matisse’s attention with her knack for working creatively with fabrics. In fact, Matisse was once so impressed with her colorful display of scarves that he bought every one in the arrangement.

Boy” sweaters on its cover. The same year she and her husband divorced, Rykiel opened her first store on the Left Bank of Paris. She opened the eponymous shop in 1968, and it immediately attracted celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot.

Although sometimes criticized for designing clothing that was too revealing, in a 1987 New York Times article, Rykiel described her typical patron as “fragile but strong.” Her runway shows evoked this persona as she often dressed models in delicate clothing but sent them down the runway chatting and smiling. Her casual approach presented a stark contrast to the serious tones other designers offered, but mostly she was praised for her ability to design clothing that reflected a fresh attitude toward growing freedom for women.

Despite growing up with a mother who loved clothing and Rykiel’s obvious knack for working with textiles, she did not make her first foray in to fashion until 1961 when necessity drew her in to the design world.

Pregnant with her second child, Rykiel could not find any clothing that she enjoyed wearing. Most of the maternity clothes at the time were meant to conceal women’s growing bellies and conveyed a sense of modesty and embarrassment that were unbefitting to Rykiel’s personality and approach to life. So, to counter the close-minded attitudes toward maternity wear at the time, she designed a fitted top and a flowing skirt that celebrated instead of hid her pregnancy.

I​n 1985, President François Mitterand named her a chevalier for the Legion of Honor. She was recognized again in 2009 and awarded the Order of Légion d’Honneur for her 40 years of service in the French fashion industry. Although she stepped down as chief executive officer and artistic director of her eponymous label in 1995, she served as honorary president until she retired in 2009. One of her goals in the 1980s was to expand her line, and she did so by branching out in

​ ykiel’s designs became popular amongst her friends, R and she began selling her clothing in her husband, Sam Rykiel’s, boutique. However, her big break came when Elle magazine featured one of her infamous “Poor

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fall 2012

fall 2014

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spring 2011

spring 2017

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"I was very touched by the charm and grace of this unique woman who truly defined what i t m e a n s t o b e i c o n i c ."

— JULIE DE LIBRAN

to men’s clothing, cosmetics, lingerie, and household items. She also created a less expensive and more contemporary line called Sonia by Sonia Rykiel.

However, since her passing, the French house has attempted to downsize and streamline its collections, reflecting the growing attitude toward pairing down labels that has dominated the fashion industry for the last two years.

major fashion houses such as Burberry, Marc Jacobs, and Donna Karan, and demonstrates the fact that in the past designers felt it necessary to branch out, but today they are looking for a unified vision that their customers can relate to. Despite the streamlining of Sonia Rykiel and the potentially blurry future of what is to come for the company, one thing is clear- Rykiel will always be remembered as a woman who came in to the industry with a new point of view and left it with ​Recently, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel was absorbed by the a legacy of empowering women to be confident about main line, and the company let almost 80 employees every aspect of their lives. go. Rykiel’s consolidation resembles that of other

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CREDITS All images used in articles and features are credited along with each page they are featured on.

All photographers featured own full rights to their images Claudia Li Designer Feature Courtesy of Claudia Li Excerpt of song on Letter from Editor The Temper Trap — Sweet Disposition A Legacy of Empowerment Article Runway & Detail shots — indigitalimages.com, indigital.tv, gorunway.com, firstview.com Spring 2017, Alessandro Garofalo Fall 2016, Kim Weston Arnold Fall 2014, Umberto Fratini Fall 2012, Filipo Fior Spring 2011, Marcus Tondo Fall 2010, Marcio Madeira Portrait of Sonia Rykiel in Paris, November 2008 — Thomas Humery Back Cover Manolo Campion

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