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GASTRO T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A WA R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
BLOGGING BYTES
How social media is stirring up an online foodie frenzy PAGE 67
RAVENOUS RESEARCH Gourmet scientists put Kent food under the microscope PAGE 55
Art of the Craft
Witness the rise of Britain’s top independent breweries PAGE 45
VINTAGE VOCATION What it takes to become a professional wine steward PAGE 77
“The kitchen is our natural habitat…”
ISSUE 14 AUTUMN 2016
HAIRY BIKERS
SI KING AND DAVE MYERS ON 20 YEARS OF FREEWHEELING FARE
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GASTRO WELCOME
What’ll it be, then?
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here’s no better way to finish off the warmer months than with a new edition of Gastro. We have another packed edition full of some tasty dishes, including a delicious chocolate gateau in celebration of National Chocolate Week in October, and a scrumptious scallop recipe from our head chef Amos at The Mark Cross Inn. This issue, we travel to Belgium to discover the beers, speak to a food blogger about how the internet has impacted on our culinary culture, and present our very own guide to the fine art of barbecuing. We’ll also be speaking to one of our local farms to find out more about the benefits of renting your very own cherry tree. Elsewhere, we’ve got an exclusive interview with two of my favourite chefs, the Hairy Bikers, who’ve been cooking together for over 20 years, and with whom I share a love of both food and motorbikes (although I no longer have the latter!). Life’s started to calm down a little bit now. Our two new sites are doing really well, especially The Rose & Crown in Green Street Green with its wonderful garden, plus we’ve also invested in a kids’ play area at The Blue Ball for our families. Sadly, we’ve had to say goodbye to Stanmer House in Brighton, having passed the reins over to entrepreneur Alex Proud. We wish him well and I’m sure he’s going to take this lovely venture to new heights, so don’t take it off your list of places to go in Brighton. It always surprises me that this time of year is invariably the busiest for Christmas bookings. Just after the kids go back to school, we have a big influx of requests, so if you want the pick of where to go and your preferred dates, my advice is to get in early. We’re now praying for some great weather at our annual Oktoberfest at The Little Brown Jug in Chiddingstone Causeway, which is my favourite of all the beer festivals. I hope to see you there, but for now, I’m off to the pub! Cheers, Brian Keeley-Whiting
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60 11 The News Catch up on all the most recent updates and stories
28 The Cooks Our exclusive chat with Si and Dave of the Hairy Bikers
45 The Beer Why SIBA is putting a hop in the step of ale aficionados
14 The Pubs Introducing our award winning gastro restaurants
35 The Gossip Tales, rumours and legends from Whiting & Hammond
49 The Destination There’s plenty of fare on offer in sumptuous Surrey
19 The Team Say hello to some W&H managers during your visit
36 The Farm It’s all ripening up at Rent a Cherry Tree in East Sussex
55 The Science How NIAB EMR is putting food under the microscope
24 The Food The season’s best culinary products and experiences
39 The Pictures Rugby 7s and May pageants are held in Kent and Surrey
59 The Ingredients Fresh tips and produce for you to savour this season
27 The Events Key dates to remember over the coming months
42 The Dish Try your hand at this top pick from the W&H menu
60 The Guide Handy hints and advice to become a barbecue master
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GASTRO CONTENTS
The Gastro team Editor Frederick Latty flatty@markerstudy.com Publishing Design Manager Xela Ruy xruy@markerstudy.com Junior Designer Amelia Giddings agiddings@markerstudy.com Production Co-ordinators Lauren Chalmers-Stevens lchalmers-stevens@markerstudy.com Natalia Bedwell nbedwell@markerstudy.com Account Manager Anna Hawkins ahawkins@markerstudy.com Editorial Director Richard Moore rmoore@markerstudy.com
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Commercial Director Nick Moore nmoore@markerstudy.com
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A WA R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
BLOGGING BYTES
How social media is stirring up an online foodie frenzy PAGE 67
RAVENOUS RESEARCH Gourmet scientists put Kent food under the microscope PAGE 55
Art of the Craft
Witness the rise of Britain’s top independent breweries PAGE 45
VINTAGE VOCATION
Contributors:
Craig Matthews Agatha O’Neill Bruce Elliott Louise Robinson Davide Mercer Andrew Hayes-Watkins
“We can’t separate the motorcycling from the cooking…” Si King and Dave Myers on 20 years of freewheeling fare
What it takes to become a professional wine steward PAGE 77
“The kitchen is our natural habitat…”
ISSUE 14 AUTUMN 2016
HAIRY BIKERS
SI KING AND DAVE MYERS ON 20 YEARS OF FREEWHEELING FARE
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16 Lonsdale Gardens, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1NU 01892 779 650 • www.one-media.co
63 The Facts Tantalising chocolate trivia you might not have known
82 The Recipe Here’s a chocolate treat for you to make in your kitchen
64 The Market We explore the delights of some Hildenborough stalls
85 The Heroes Enjoy life in the slow lane with this foodie movement
67 The Expert Local blogger talks about cooking up a storm online
89 The Brits Gourmet highlights from all around the United Kingdom
72 The Journey Join us as we travel to the brewing capital of Belgium
94 The Gifts Epicurean ideas to delight your nearest and dearest
77 The Wine UK Sommelier Association on the art of great service
97 The Apps Delicious downloads to help you get to grips with grub
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Whiting & Hammond Gastro Magazine is owned by Whiting & Hammond Ltd and published/distributed by One Media and Creative UK Ltd. All rights reserved. The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owner or publisher. All prices are correct at the time of going to print. Neither the publisher nor the owner can accept responsibility for any errors or omissions relating to advertising or editorial. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent from the publisher. No responsibility is taken for unsolicited materials or the return of these materials whilst in transit.
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GASTRO NEWS
FRONT
OF
HOUSE
OUR ROUNDUP OF THE LATEST HAPPENINGS FROM THE WORLD OF
BURGER BONANZA On Thursday August 25, don’t forget to download your voucher and get 20% off your burger for National Burger Day. Go to www.nationalburgerday.co.uk where you can input your details and secure your discount.
STEIN CELEBRATIONS Head to The Little Brown Jug for Oktoberfest from Friday September 23 to Sunday September 25, when Munich comes to Chiddingstone Causeway. Our traditional German festival showcases some traditional beers and food for you to savour, accompanied by live music as well. www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk/events
HAPPY HARVEST Don’t miss out on joining us at the Pantiles Harvest Food Festival from Friday September 9 to Sunday September 11. Here, you’ll be able to sample our delicious homemade sausage rolls, Scotch eggs, brownies and many more scrumptious treats. www.thepantiles.com
BLUE BALL BIRTHDAY END OF AN ERA After four years running Stanmer House in Brighton – taking it from an events business to a full-time operation – we’ve decided that it’s a different venue to our core and have sadly had to let it go from the W&H group. Stanmer is now owned by Proud Publishing and Alex Proud, who have great plans for the site. We wish them well and every success, and hope the site continues to grow under their new ownership. www.stanmerhouse.co.uk
BEST OF BRITISH
The Blue Ball in Walton-on-the-Hill will be celebrating its first birthday on Saturday September 3. Come one, come all for a sizzling barbecue and some sultry live music! www.theblueball.co.uk
CONTINENTAL CARS Come and enjoy a pint or two with us at the wonderful Italian car and bikes day on Sunday September 4 at Honnington Farm in Southborough, near Tunbridge Wells. There are some amazing old and new cars to see, plus the Italian Grand Prix will be showing on a large screen in the marquee. www.honnington.com THE ROSE & CROWN
Running from Saturday September 17 to Sunday October 2, British Food Fortnight is at the same time as harvest festival, and is the largest celebration of eating and drinking all things from Great Britain. Our menus always feature our regular UK dishes, such as fish and chips and shoulder of lamb, but during the fortnight, we’ll have a full menu of produce that’s entirely British! www.lovebritishfood.co.uk
KENT ITALIAN CAR & BIKE DAY Sponsored by
live Italian F1 GP
INCLUDING OTHER INVITED MAKES
HONNINGTON FARM, VAUXHALL LANE, SOUTHBOROUGH TN4 0XD ON SUNDAY 4th SEPT 10.00am UNTIL LATE AFTERNOON. ALL ITALIAN CARS & BIKES, FROM BYGONE ERA TO PRESENT DAY, WARMLY WELCOMED. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT: ANGELA ON: 07767 374701 angelabowie@btinternet.com OR SHERIDAN ON: 07909 522141
REGISTER YOUR ITALIAN CAR OR BIKE ONLINE FOR FREE ENTRY www.honningtonevents.com Every penny raised is in aid of Kent, Surrey & Sussex Air Ambulance
ITALIA IN PIAZZA: THE REAL ITALIAN FOOD MARKET
To keep up to date with the latest W&H news, visit www.whitingandhammond.co.uk, like us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/whitingandhammond or follow us on Twitter @Whiting_Hammond
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GASTRO PUBS
DISCOVER
INTRODUCING OUR AWARD-WINNING PUBS AND RESTAURANTS The Chaser Inn
The Little Brown Jug
The Cricketers Inn
Stumble Hill, Shipbourne, Kent TN11 9PE 01732 810 360 Manager: Janet Webb Head Chef: Daniel Curtis www.thechaser.co.uk bookings@thechaser.co.uk www.facebook.com/TheChaserInn @thechaserinn
Chiddingstone Causeway, Kent TN11 8JJ 01892 870 318 Manager: Duke Chidgey Head Chef: Peter Napier-Clarke www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk enquiries@thelittlebrownjug.co.uk www.facebook.com/littlebrown.jug.52 @LittleBrownJug1
Wrotham Road, Meopham, Kent DA13 0QA 01474 812 163 Manager: Scott Hawkes Head Chef: Paul Ribbands www.thecricketersinn.co.uk enquiries@thecricketersinn.co.uk www.facebook.com/cricketers.inn @Cricketers_Inn
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GASTRO PUBS
The Mark Cross Inn
The Kings Head
Mark Cross, East Sussex TN6 3NP 01892 852 423 Manager: Amy Glenie Head Chef: Chris Attwood www.themarkcross.co.uk enquiries@themarkcross.co.uk www.facebook.com/TheMarkCross @TheMarkCross
Westerham Road, Bessels Green, Kent TN13 2QA 01732 452 081 Manager: Jamie Owens Head Chef: Adam Barritt www.kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk enquiries@kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk www.facebook.com/kingsheadbg @Kings_Head_BG
The Farm @ Friday Street
The Rose & Crown
15 Friday Street, Langney, Eastbourne, East Sussex BN23 8AP 01323 766 049 Manager: Paul Worman Head Chef: Matt Paske www.farmfridaystreet.com enquiries@farmfridaystreet.com www.facebook.com/farm.fridaystreet @farmfridayst
Farnborough Way, Green Street Green, Farnborough, Kent BR6 6BT 01689 869 029 Manager: Lee Scott Head Chef: David Matthias www.the-roseandcrown.co.uk enquiries@the-roseandcrown.co.uk www.facebook.com/BR6roseandcrown @therosecrown_
The Blue Ball Deans Lane, Walton-on-the-Hill, Tadworth, Surrey KT20 7UE 01737 819 003 Manager: Martin Slocombe Head Chef: Dean Beaumont www.theblueball.co.uk enquiries@theblueball.co.uk www.facebook.com/ TheBlueBallTadworth @TheBlueBall_
Don’t forget to like us at www.facebook.com/whitingandhammond or follow us on Twitter @Whiting_Hammond
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You are what you eat
GASTRO ADVERTORIAL
The Pantiles Food Festival is a staple of the Tunbridge Wells Summer. Every year, visitors flock to the historic promenade to sample the delicious delights on offer and this year was no exception. As the main sponsors, Thomson Snell & Passmore have a fondness for food…
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he beginning of summer brought a whole host of exciting events to Tunbridge Wells including the highly anticipated annual Pantiles Food Festival. It’s an absolute feast of delectable delights and Thomson Snell & Passmore is delighted to have the opportunity to be involved with this event as the main sponsor. Thanks to The Great British Bake Off, Lean in 15 and Eat Yourself Well, there has been a huge rise in people educating themselves on how to source, cook, present and store food in a manner that suits their budget, lifestyle and health. The cooking demonstrations from Rosemary Shrager and Matt Riley - to name a few - motivated us all. With an increased awareness amongst
the public of where their food is coming from and an enthusiasm for planning ahead, it has never been a more exciting time for the businesses that produce food and drink. The food festival was a real testament to this. The impressive skills that were evident at the cooking demonstrations, combined with the ambience of the stalls, created an infectious buzz. People were exploring new tastes, healthy alternatives and international inspiration. Even more exciting than the thrill at the stalls was the chinking of glasses, casual coffees and hoards of friends getting together at the restaurants nearby, which flowed all the way into the high-street. While we know the sun had
some influence, it was a pleasure to see the vast number of excellent restaurants hosting young and old for that much needed get together. It was only after seeing the food festival at lunchtime – its peak - that we really did appreciate the phrase ‘you are what you eat’. Dare we even extend it to ‘where, how and when you eat’? Every pub, stall and restaurant offered something for everyone and we all took pride in making sure we settled at the right one. If you didn’t get a chance to go, then save the date below of the next food festival. You can fill an hour, an afternoon and a cupboard if you bring your bag for life! For more information about Thomson Snell & Passmore’s food and beverage sector please contact Head of Marketing, Charlotte Eberlein on 01892 701301
Friday 9th September - Sunday 11th Sept September Friday 12 - 5pm • Saturday 10 - 5pm • Sunday 10 - 4pm
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GASTRO TEAM
Meet the
Managers
From Surrey through to Kent, our eight award-winning sites have a reputation for their warm, welcoming service and exceptional food and drink. At the front of it all are the general managers, who ensure all the pubs run like clockwork. We introduce you to some of these friendly W&H faces PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRAIG MATTHEWS
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GASTRO TEAM
Martin Slocombe
The Blue Ball, Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey Tell us your background I was working alongside one of my wine representatives and often conversed with him about my future aspirations. He was aware of The Blue Ball and thought it would be a perfect place for me to boost my career. It was in one of my favourite parts of the country, the county of Surrey, and in particular, a beautiful village named Walton-on-the-Hill. What does your day-to-day role entail? In the morning, I take bookings and deliveries, ensuring the stock’s correct, the day’s bookings are all in place and the menus have been prepared. Throughout service, I take pleasure in meeting and greeting guests, conversing with them while taking orders, interacting with my skilled team members, and ensuring that our guests leave happy. When I’m not serving, I’m arranging rotas for the week and planning future events to be held at the pub. How about your menu’s bestsellers? Our most popular dish is the succulent shoulder of lamb. It’s a personal favourite of mine, and guests are always complimenting it and returning for more. I work very closely
with the chef, having many conversations frequently throughout the week – throwing ideas and propositions around for what’s in season, as well as discussing potential event ideas that the kitchen can offer. Any personal highlights from the job? For me, there isn’t one part that isn’t rewarding, from seeing our guests leave happy, to reading their wonderful TripAdvisor comments, especially when complimenting my team. I also take great pleasure in hitting targets from Whiting & Hammond and planning future prospects for the pub. Where would you like to take the pub going forward? I would love The Blue Ball to become one of the best sites in the business, which will stand strong for a very long time, providing our guests with the happiness they receive today.
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GASTRO TEAM
Duke Chidgey
The Little Brown Jug, Chiddingstone Causeway, Kent
What’s your background? I began working for W&H when I joined The Cricketers in Meopham as a full-time barman, just under six years ago. A year later, I moved over to The Mark Cross Inn as an assistant manager and spent 18 months in that role, before being promoted to deputy manager at The Old Dunnings Mill in East Grinstead. I then became a roving deputy manager, and started as deputy manager at The Chaser in Shipbourne a year later, before finally being promoted to general manager at The Little Brown Jug.
classic shoulder of lamb, served with dauphinoise potatoes. The kitchen and I discuss a menu plan a week ahead of time, so they can keep all the produce seasonal and the menu varied, along with promoting special events such as Great British Beef Week and Pie Week, which gives our chefs the chance to create new dishes.
Talk us through your role It changes daily depending on the needs of the pub, whether that’s office-based, working on the floor or even gardening!
And are your plans for the future? I hope that Whiting & Hammond continues to go from strength to strength, and aim to make The Little Brown Jug as successful as it can be, while offering great food and good service.
Are there many bestsellers on the menu? I’d say the most consistently popular dish at The LBJ is the
Do you have a favourite part of the job? I love that each day offers different challenges, along with meeting lots of interesting people.
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What do you get up to on an average day? I have the joys of managing the newest of the W&H pubs, and my day-today is always a bit of everything and something different. I have a great team around me, and we do our best to make this the best pub of the bunch!
Lee Scott
The Rose & Crown, Green Street Green, Kent How did you get involved with W&H? I joined when I saw the work happening at The Rose & Crown, and visited a couple of the other pubs before applying for the role. I knew from my first visit that it was something I could see myself being a part of.
Tell us about some of your bestselling dishes There are a few – the pub classics always go down well throughout the week, and our steak cuts sell particularly well too. Outside of that, the spatchcock poussin has received some great feedback.
makes it all worthwhile and gives the whole team a sense of pride, like we’re achieving great stuff day by day. Any hopes for the future? To be the best around. I believe we already are, and now that the staff have had further training, and are that little bit more experienced in what we want to do here, we have the potential to accomplish great things.
And the most rewarding part of your role? Getting through those crazy, busy days and coming out at the end with great feedback from the guests. It
What do you get up to each day? The job has many roles. The morning generally starts with the office side of things, getting everything ready for the day ahead, then on to a chat with the chefs to discuss the day’s menu. Lunch service begins, and from there it’s making sure customers are happy and looked after.
Jan Webb
The Chaser Inn, Shipbourne, Kent Talk us through your background I started working part-time at The Old Dunnings Mill in East Grinstead, Whiting & Hammond’s second pub. Within a couple of years, I went on to working there full-time, learning all the areas of front of house. I was promoted to assistant manager, then deputy, before being given the responsibility of general manager. Following a successful three years in this role, I took up the offer of general manager at The Little Brown Jug in Chiddingstone Causeway. After an 18-month period there, I applied for the position at The Chaser Inn, Whiting & Hammond’s first pub.
Do you have many bestsellers on your menu? We have three or four popular core dishes – shoulder of lamb, fish and chips, burger and steak. Each week, the head chef comes up with new dishes for the week ahead after discussions with the other chefs. He then runs through the ideas with me, and from there the team creates the dishes and we do tastings. I have a very close working relationship with all of the chefs. And what gets you up in the morning? The closeness of working with a team and seeing the staff grow is extremely rewarding. Knowing that we’ve all provided an experience for the customers, more than just giving
out food and drink, makes the job so worthwhile. It’s a great buzz when you can see a full pub with happy customers – I don’t think I’ll ever tire of the feeling it gives. Where do you see the pub going forward? I hope The Chaser continues as a much-loved place to visit, maintaining the high reputation it has with everyone around. For Whiting & Hammond, I want to see the company continue to grow and produce more of their well-loved pubs.
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GASTRO GRUB
Thought FOOD FOR
FIVE OF THE BEST CULINARY PRODUCTS AND EXPERIENCES TO LOOK FORWARD TO OVER THE COMING MONTHS
The Trip For an inspirational cooking course or culinary journey, Gourmet on Tour can help you travel in style through some of the finest gastronomic destinations on Earth. From hands-on classes with master chefs, to authentic home-cooked spreads from local artisans, you’ll get to savour the flavours of such exotic destinations as Marrakech, Beijing and San Sebastian. You might be interested in European excursions like Brittany on a Plate, or prefer to relax and unwind with a Californian spa day – whatever your tastes, you won’t want to miss out on one of these unforgettable epicurean escapes around the world. www.gourmetontour.com
The Tour Discover, taste and escape to a new wine region right on your doorstep with Kent and Sussex Wine Tours. These fun, informative and fascinating guides take in contrasting vineyards and wineries around the two counties, where you’ll learn about different winemaking techniques, varieties and styles. Transporting you from grape to glass, the outings also include wine tastings set against the stunning countryside backdrops of the South East. For an all-inclusive price of £120 per person, small group tours of no more than eight make for a more intimate occasion, while corporate and bespoke experiences are equally memorable. www.kentandsussex winetours.co.uk
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The Festivals On Saturday September 3, Surrey Hills Food and Drink Festival offers a wide variety of local cuisine to sample and buy, as well as great local bands and a full-sized fibreglass ‘CowParade’. Elsewhere, the Woking Food and Drink Festival runs from Friday September 2 to Sunday September 4, showcasing more than 80 food and drink stalls, and demonstrations from a selection of the UK’s most popular culinary talents. And on Saturday September 17, the Haslemere Food Festival features a packed programme of gin tastings, cheese tastings and baking demonstrations for foodies to come and enjoy. www.surreyhillsfest.co.uk www.wokingfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk www.haslemere.com/foodfestival
The Book Bring some exciting healthy eating to the heart of your home with Jamie Oliver’s Super Food Family Classics. This collection of tried and tested recipes includes squash mac ‘n’ cheese, chicken fajitas, sweet potato fishcakes and chocolate porridge, so whether you’re after a quick meal for those busy days, or a first-class feast for the whole family, you’ll be well and truly spoiled for choice. Plus, there’s even a bumper section at the back that’s packed with valuable advice on cooking with kids, tackling fussy eaters and more. Order your hardback copy now for just £13 at www.amazon.co.uk
The Course Head to The Abinger Cookery School for a range of day and evening courses, corporate events and ‘chalet chef’ specials. Based in the heart of the beautiful Surrey Hills, the school covers everything from tapas, Thai and French bistro, to pasta-making, butchery and dinner parties. Priced from £795, Chalet Cooks syllabuses are ideal for those wanting to spend a season in the Alps, honing their cooking alongside highly qualified in-house chefs. These practical, hands-on options incorporate basic to intermediate training, knife skills and menu planning, in addition to sourcing ingredients, budgeting, time management and meal service. www.abingercookeryschool.com
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GASTRO EVENTS
Events
by
THE ROSE & CROWN Green Street Green, Farnborough
THE BLUE BALL Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey
THE KINGS HEAD Bessels Green, Kent
THE CRICKETERS INN Meopham, Kent
THE FARM @ FRIDAY STREET Eastbourne, East Sussex
THE MARK CROSS INN Mark Cross, East Sussex
THE LITTLE BROWN JUG Chiddingstone Causeway, Kent
THE CHASER INN Shipbourne, Kent
EVENTd
RESTAURANTd
All the dates you’ll need on your W&H calendar
MR HYDE NATIONAL BURGER DAY 27th August THE PANTILES FOOD FESTIVAL, TUNBRIDGE WELLS 9th - 11th September BRITISH FOOD FORTNIGHT 17th September 2nd October OKTOBERFEST 23rd - 25th September NATIONAL CURRY WEEK 10th - 16th October NATIONAL CHOCOLATE WEEK 10th - 16th October WORLD EGG DAY 14th October APPLE DAY 21st October HALLOWEEN 31st October
For more information on how to book any of our events, check with your local venue or visit www.whitingandhammond.co.uk You can also keep up to date with what’s happening by liking us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/whitingandhammond or by following us on Twitter @Whiting_Hammond
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GASTRO HAIRY BIKERS
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GASTRO HAIRY BIKERS
Hairy Bikers
“WE’RE LIKE A PAIR OF OLD COMFY SLIPPERS IN THE KITCHEN…” The Hairy Bikers have been to the ends of the Earth and back again for their many television and cookbook adventures. Frederick Latty catches up with Si King and Dave Myers, who fondly reflect on more than two decades of riding, cooking and discovering a world of gourmet possibilities together
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW HAYES-WATKINS
V cooks don’t come much more down-to-Earth, big-hearted or larger-than-life than the Hairy Bikers. Over the past two decades, the eponymous pair of Si King and Dave Myers have donned their helmets, revved their engines and set off on a multitude of epicurean outings worldwide, exuding a level of infectious excitement, enthusiasm and passion rarely seen on the small screen. Indeed, a mutual love of food and bikes has led the dynamic duo to a shared culinary dream, travelling the globe in pursuit of great grub, with the wind in their hair and nothing but the open road ahead of them. Together, they’ve created brand new recipes, given their own fresh takes on the classics, and become national treasures in the process. “We’ve been cooking together for over 20 years, and it’s still as much fun,” says Dave. “We’re like a pair of old comfy slippers in the kitchen – it just works. There are jobs that I do and jobs that Si does, but we just seem to get on well together. There’s a passion and camaraderie, plus we get to eat and drink at the end of it.” It’s this boundless energy and positivity that’s driven their careers. Hailing from Newcastle and Barrow-in-Furness respectively, Si, 49, and Dave, 58, both started out in TV – the former as a first assistant director and locations manager, the latter as a makeup and prosthetic artist. From meeting on the set of a Catherine Cookson adaptation, they’ve been thick as thieves ever since. In the time following that first fateful encounter, the boys have written a total of 15 books to date. From The Hairy Bikers’
Perfect Pies, 12 Days of Christmas, Big Book of Baking and Great Curries, to three phenomenally successful diet books, they’ve topped the non-fiction charts time and time again – perhaps most notably when their first dieting guide toppled 50 Shades of Grey in the summer of 2012. Their most recent offering, The Hairy Dieters: Fast Food, provides delicious low calorie recipes that can all be made in under 30 minutes. Elsewhere, the Hairy Bikers Diet Club endeavours to help people lose weight and eat more healthily, without compromising on quality, flavour or substance. As such, they’ve become model celebrity chefs, making their meals as fun as they are nutritious. The culinary couple’s just as popular on television, starring in hits like Meals on Wheels, Mum Knows Best and Best of British (which attracted upwards of 1.7million viewers per episode), as well as The Hairy Bikers’ Bakeation, Mississippi Adventure and Asian Adventure. They’ve certainly come a long way and been to some far-flung places, but never lose touch with their quintessentially British roots. “Growing up in the North of England has been great for me as a cook,” Dave continues. “There’s a generosity of spirit about northern food, both in portion sizes and flavours. Cumbria, my home county, has some of the best food in the world, and our food’s always been interesting, from the black-peppery Cumberland sausage, to our Grasmere Gingerbread. It’s not always so grim up North!” It was here where both men used to separately spend their time cooking and riding while growing up, developing a love affair with hogs and haute in equal measure. These passions have become integral parts of their lives throughout adulthood, but
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GASTRO HAIRY BIKERS
We’ve been cooking together for over 20 years, and it’s still as much fun. There’s a passion and camaraderie, plus we get to eat and drink at the end of it
there’s no dividing the two when it comes to deciding which is their preferred interest. “We can’t separate the motorcycling from the cooking – we love them both,” they insist. “Although, the older we get, the crunchier our knees get, so the motorcycling tends to be saved for the warmer weather, and the kitchen is our natural habitat. “We’ve almost lived parallel lives; although we had very different upbringings, we both got into cooking as young boys and biking before we were really legally old enough. They were two mutual passions, so when we met – put together with our zest for a good time – we both knew we were going to have fun. There are a few more years of riding, cooking, eating and madness in us yet!” That certainly appears to be the case for these two ravenous ramblers. With another delectable excursion lined up this autumn, there’s still plenty of dishes to eat, countries to see and journeys to make. To that end, here’s hoping that their knees don’t get too crunchy anytime soon, and that we can continue to
tag along for the ride for many more years to come, in the company of our favourite petrolheads. “There are a lot of places where we’d love to go to cook and explore,” they conclude. “We’ve always gone to countries that are on the edge of the radar in culinary terms. We haven’t done much in the Mediterranean or South America, and reckon Canada or Russia would be really interesting. As for Africa, we haven’t scratched the surface…so many travels and dinners, so little time!” www.hairybikers.com Read on for a recipe from | The Hairy Dieters: Fast Food, available now, priced £14.99, from Weidenfeld & Nicolson
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GASTRO RECIPE
Cauliflower pilaf SERVES 4
274 calories per serving
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GASTRO RECIPE
Everyone loves a pilaf, but the rice makes it quite a high-calorie dish. If you use cauliflower instead, you get all that lovely comforting flavour and texture with far fewer cals. We’re happy putting the whole spices into our pilaf and used to fishing them out as we eat, but if you’re worried, you could wrap them in a little bit of muslin
INGREDIENTS
for another couple of minutes. Add the whole
• 500g chicken thighs or breasts
spices and the bay leaves.
• 1 large onion, sliced into thin crescents • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 5g fresh root ginger, finely chopped • Large pinch of saffron • 1tbsp vegetable or coconut oil • 5 cardamom pods
• Pour the stock and the saffron with its water into the pan, then season with salt and pepper. Stir vigorously, scraping up any brown bits from the base of the pan. Bring the stock to the boil, then leave to simmer while you prepare
• 2 x 3cm pieces of cinnamon stick
the cauliflower – this should take about five
• 1tsp cumin seeds
minutes. Cut up the cauliflower and blitz to the
• 1tsp fennel seeds (optional)
size of coarse breadcrumbs in a food processor,
• 3 cloves
using the stalks as well as the florets.
• 2 bay leaves • 250ml chicken stock • 1 medium cauliflower (about 750g) • Flaked sea salt • Freshly ground black pepper
• When the liquid has reduced so it just coats the base of the pan and the chicken and onion are tender, remove the chicken and most of the onion with a slotted spoon and keep them warm. Add the cauliflower to the
To serve
pan and stir so it is coated with the remaining
• 1tbsp pistachios
liquid and spices – it should start to turn a
• ½ pomegranate
light ochre in patches.
• Small bunch of coriander or parsley
DIRECTIONS • First, prepare the chicken. If using thighs, trim off any fat, then slice them thinly. If using breasts, cut them into 2cm chunks. Peel and slice the onion into thin crescents and finely chop the garlic and ginger. Put the saffron in a bowl with a little hot water and leave it to steep. • Heat the oil in a large, lidded frying pan or a shallow casserole dish. When the pan is hot, add the chicken. Fry the chicken for a minute, stirring constantly, until the pieces have seared, then add the onion, garlic and ginger and fry
• Cook over a medium heat for at least five minutes, stirring regularly, until the cauliflower is cooked through and the remaining liquid has evaporated. The cauliflower should be fluffy. Put half the chicken and onion back into the pan and stir it through the cauliflower, then add the rest on top. • While the cauliflower is cooking, lightly crush or chop the pistachios and remove the seeds from the pomegranate. Serve the pilaf sprinkled with the pistachios, pomegranate seeds and herbs.
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GASTRO GOSSIP
Time at The Bar Stories, rumours and local legends from the world of Whiting & Hammond…
The Chaser Inn
Shipbourne, Kent A daughter brought her parents in to recreate a pub crawl they’d done in the area 60 years earlier, stopping at The Chaser for lunch. Now in their 80s, mum and dad took to it like ducks to water. With a wine in hand, the mother told a member of staff all about the debauchery of she and her husband’s youth, insisting that she still had another four drinks to go. We’re not sure how their heads were the next morning, but they were our kind of couple! www.thechaser.co.uk
The Blue Ball
Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey A young couple came in for lunch after their cycle ride. They were clearly very loved up, as after a
giggle or two and some wandering hands, our very own Gastro magazine had to be used to hide the lumps and bumps in his lycra. They may have thought they’d gotten away with it, but sadly for them, the cameras are always watching... www.theblueball.co.uk
when a customer brought their cat in on a lead after taking it for a walk! And there’s no answer for the customer who complained because there was no ‘beef’ in his beef tomato salad. www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk
The Little Brown Jug
Heard a good story about your W&H local? Let us know by:
It’s not just the kids at the pubs that enjoy the play areas. After a few pints and a bottle of wine, the gentleman coming down the slide at The Little Brown Jug looked as happy as Larry. He then continued to drink a few more and attempt the fireman’s pole.
Calling 01892 871 042 Emailing office@ whitingandhammond.co.uk Writing to The Little Brown Jug, Chiddingstone Causeway, Tonbridge, Kent TN11 8JJ
We’re all used to dogs being in the pub, as we allow them in the bar area, but it came as a bit of shock
All entries will be strictly confidential!
Chiddingstone Causeway, Kent
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GASTRO FARMING
Pick of
the bunch
Based at Cooks Yard Farm in Northiam, the orchards of Rent a Cherry Tree provide a novel new way of enjoying fresh fruit. Michael Dallaway tells us more about why East Sussex presents an ideal setting for customers who want to come and pick ripe cherries off the branch of their very own tree
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GASTRO FARMING
So, Michael, tell us how Rent a Cherry Tree got started It was kind of a light bulb moment. I was working in a new cherry orchard we’d planted, which hadn’t been done with the view to rent cherry trees, but to grow and sell cherries how we always have, at local wholesale and farmers’ markets. While working on the orchard, I was thinking of various other things we could do, and wondered whether this might be a different route to go down. At the time, there was quite a lot in the press about people wanting to source food locally and sustainably, which was very much my interest. How many trees do you have? In total, we’ve got about 8,000 now, mainly at our other farm in Sandhurst, which is just down the road. Kordia is a mid-season variety – which are generally a bit more dependable – and a lovely black cherry. We then move on to Colney and Penny, then Regina and Sweetheart, which are the very late ones and lovely firm, dark cherries as well. Earlier varieties are always a touch softer and, because they flower earlier, can be a little bit less reliable, so we felt that offering those as rentals wasn’t the route to go down. In what ways does Northiam provide the ideal growing conditions? The climate’s quite unique down in the South East. We get enough rain, but not the same volumes that come off the Atlantic and hit Devon and the West Country, which is what you want for cherries, because too much rain splits them through osmosis. We also get more than our fair share of sunshine in this corner, plus there are variations in temperature, which lends to the fantastic flavour of the fruit. What do you do with the leftover cherries? Anything that’s not quite up to scratch, or if we get a variety that isn’t under cover and splits with heavy rain, we’ll pick them all off and squash them for juice, so they don’t get wasted. In every bottle, there’s nothing else other than two to three kilos of squashed cherries, so it’s the only totally pure cherry juice in England. Five or six years ago, we made the first batch of 1,000 litres, which is now 10-fold.
Can customers come and pick from their cherry trees whenever they like? Each variety’s ready for about a 10-day period when they’re at their best, so we stay in touch via email and let them know when we think the picking dates will be, according to when flowering is. At blossoming time, they can come down for a hog roast and get to see their tree and the orchard in bloom. During the picking period, they get 10 days to pick their cherries and enjoy them when they’re at their optimum ripeness. The benefits are very much being able to get seasonal fruit straight off the tree and know exactly where it’s come from. Most people have never tasted a cherry like it – the freshness levels are just spectacular. Do you also sell your wares at farmers’ markets? We do all the local ones like Tunbridge Wells and Penshurst. We’ve got a really loyal following of people who want cherries that are picked the day before and actually taste like cherries. There’s a real delight for them and they’re always so happy to see us back, because they know they can’t really buy cherries that taste like that anywhere else.
Michael Dallaway
Where would you like to take the business going forward? We’ve planted another orchard of 1,200 trees with a view to renting more if the demand’s still there, or to supply more farmers’ markets, giving us the flexibility of which route we want to go down. We planted another orchard of about 1,000 trees four years ago, so next year we’ll be able to rent them out if we want to. We’re always either pulling out older orchards or putting in new ones, which gives us that flexibility of where we want to take it. Rent a Cherry Tree can be found at Cooks Yard Farm, New Road, Northiam, East Sussex TN31 6HS. To find out more, call Michael on 07905 671 114, email michael@rentacherrytree.co.uk or visit www.rentacherrytree.co.uk
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Darling Pubs of May
It was a shame the sun wasn’t shining for our first May pageant at The Blue Ball in Surrey, but it was a great day nonetheless. Everyone enjoyed the event with us, and it was great to see the whole village out showing support. We look forward to many more!
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Sunshine and Sevens
GASTRO SOCIAL
Photography by Bruce Elliott www.bephotos.co.uk
We were overjoyed to once again be the main sponsor of the Tunbridge Wells Rugby Club Sevens this year, especially as the event has now been elevated to the Kent Rugby Sevens. It was a fantastic day – the weather was great and the beer tent and barbecue went down well. We look forward to doing it again next year! On a sad note, our hog roast machine was stolen; if you know of one going or where ours went, then please get in touch…there may be a reward!
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GASTRO RECIPE
My Favourite Dish HERE’S WHERE WE FEATURE OUR TEAM’S TOP CHOICES FROM THE W&H MENU FOR YOU TO TRY AT HOME. THIS TIME WE HEAR FROM AMOS BURROWS, HEAD CHEF AT THE MARK CROSS IN EAST SUSSEX, WHO SHARES A DELICIOUS SEAFOOD RECIPE – READ ON TO FIND OUT HOW TO RECREATE THIS MARITIME MEAL IN YOUR KITCHEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRAIG MATTHEWS
Pan-seared, diver-caught scallops, black pudding, smoked pancetta, celeriac and parsley SERVES 4 Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes
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GASTRO RECIPE
Ingredients
½ a small celeriac 500ml double cream Salt and pepper 160g good-quality butcher’s black pudding 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Directions
Celeriac purée Peel and dice the celeriac into rough 1cm cubes, place in a saucepan and cover with the double cream, then cook slowly until very soft. Remove the celeriac from the cream and blend in a liquidiser until smooth, adding the cooking cream a little at a time, then season with the salt and pepper. Crispy black pudding Mix the black pudding with a little of the chopped parsley and season with salt and pepper. Next, roll the black pudding into balls weighing 20g each, then dust with the flour, dip into the beaten eggs and coat with the breadcrumbs. Cook in a deep fat fryer until crisp and golden.
50g plain flour 2 large free-range eggs, beaten 50g Panko breadcrumbs 150ml cold pressed rapeseed oil Ground white pepper 125g smoked pancetta lardons
12 large, sustainable English diver-caught scallops (mussel and roe removed) Maldon sea salt 1 small knob butter ¼ lemon
Parsley oil Blanch the flat-leaf parsley in boiling water for 20 seconds and plunge into iced water (this will keep the colour and flavour). Drain and squeeze the water out of the parsley, then blend with the cold pressed rapeseed oil (this isn’t as strong as olive oil, and is also made in this country) until smooth, and season with salt and the ground white pepper. Shallow-fry the smoked pancetta lardons until golden and drain on kitchen paper.
moving the scallops to allow them to caramelise, then turn over and cook for a further 45 seconds. Add the butter and squeeze the lemon into the pan. Drain the scallops onto kitchen paper.
To cook the scallops Season lightly with the Maldon sea salt and place into a hot frying pan with a little oil. Cook for one minute without
To serve Spread the celeriac purée across a slate with a pastry comb, then place the pan-fried scallops on top. Place small spoonfuls of more purée on the slate, place the black pudding on top and decorate with the cubes of celeriac. Sprinkle the dish with the pancetta lardons and decorate with a pinch of micro parsley or chopped parsley.
My favourite dish is made up of a selection of ingredients I love to eat and all work beautifully together. Juicy, sweet, diver-caught scallops (not the unsustainable dredged ones), smoky pancetta and earthy black pudding and celeriac – what’s not to like?
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GASTRO ALE TALE
The future of
British beer is hugely exciting… Since its inception over 35 years ago, the Society of Independent Brewers has become a haven for smaller, local breweries throughout Britain. We find out more about how the not-for-profit SIBA advocates the UK’s best-quality beers, and provides an essential platform to make their voices heard
I
f you’ve ever tasted a pint from your local brewery, chances are it was produced by a team of independent brewers who are just as passionate about the tipple as you are. Microbreweries are becoming increasingly popular around the UK and beyond, and there’s never been a better time to support your nearby hop houses, which have come to rival bigger household names in recent years. To represent the interests of the growing number of standalone beer makers in Britain, the Society of Independent Brewers was established
in 1980 ‘to deliver the future of British beer and become the voice of British brewing’. Today, SIBA champions more than 850 craft breweries nationwide, and continues to uphold its original vision.
“SIBA represents the whole of the UK, and our membership is fairly evenly spread across all eight of our regions,” says Mike Benner, managing director of SIBA. “The increase in small,
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GASTRO ALE TALE
still dominated by the global independent craft breweries brewers’ lagers,” explains has helped a vibrant beer scene SIBA believes that great craft beer Mike. “This balance is shifting, grow, where younger people, should be available no matter what however, and people are and women in particular, are beginning to realise that discovering the quality and the setting, whether eating out, there’s much more to beer flavour of independently enjoying a beer at home, or visiting than the same lager brands brewed craft beers.” available everywhere. A significant part of SIBA’s your local bar or pub – something “It’s all about giving consumers mission is campaigning for we’re helping the UK’s on and choice. Many enjoy the beers Progressive Beer Duty (PBD), they already drink, but it’s which came into place in 2002. off-trades work towards important to give consumers the The system allows smaller opportunity to try something producers to pay less tax on different in order to attract more selling them on to 17 national pub their products, leading to an people into the beer industry. A big part companies and off-trade retailers, which explosion of independents in the last of what makes craft beer so special is regional businesses previously found it decade. Current estimates put UK that it’s often produced just down the extremely difficult to break into. numbers in excess of 1,500, making road, and arrives in your glass much Elsewhere, SIBA’s cellar services, Britain home to more per head than any fresher and full of flavour.” competitions and award schemes have other country in the world. Indeed, drawing comparisons with the helped bolster the industry even further, “PBD still plays a major role in Britain’s food sector certainly helps put things showcasing the very best the country vibrant beer market,” Mike continues. in perspective; just as farmers’ markets, has to offer, and providing accessible “SIBA’s membership survey recently food festivals, pubs and restaurants are platforms and resources for members highlighted how important PBD is to our fighting the good fight against larger to sell their wares and increase their member breweries’ business, with 70% concerns, so too does the ale trade make branding and marketing potential. stressing that, in at least its current format, concerted efforts to put less prominent Furthermore, they help put everyone on it’s ’vital’, and an additional 24% highlighting holdings firmly on the map to make a a level playing field across the board. this as ‘very important’ or ‘important’.” name for themselves. “In terms of numbers, the vast majority Further initiatives include Beerflex, the “If your restaurant or café is serving of breweries in the UK are small, society’s main commercial venture, which fresh, locally-sourced food, then independently owned craft brewers, but buys over 3,500 draught and bottled why should the drink offering be any brews from around 600 SIBA participants, in terms of volume, the beer market is
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SIBA Success Here are some of the society’s members brewing up a storm in our part of the world
Hogs Back Brewery
Surrey’s award-winning brewer of fine English ales and lagers has been brewing since 1992 and is open for guided tours throughout the week. Its range comprises traditional favourites like TEA and RipSnorter, as well as Hogstar lager and Hazy Hog cider for a more contemporary feel. www.hogsback.co.uk different?” Neil wonders. “The quality of beer being produced in the UK rivals anywhere in the world, so there’s no reason to not buy local.” In March 2015, SIBA launched a three-year strategic plan that highlighted four strategic aims: promoting and campaigning for members, providing and enhancing commercial opportunities, growing membership and developing capability. This improved representation of the market helps the association have more influence when lobbying politicians. It’s this thirst for change that’s the driving force behind SIBA’s success. With the rise in the micro-brewing scene only becoming more apparent, organisations like it have never been as relevant as they are today. And while their future impact in Britain remains to be seen, one thing that’s certain is that they’re
here to stay and aren’t going away anytime soon, as Mike concludes. “The future of British beer is hugely exciting, and we hope the diversity and experimentation we’re currently seeing in independently brewed craft beer will continue and expand,” he says. “SIBA believes that great craft beer should be available no matter what the setting, whether eating out, enjoying a beer at home, or visiting your local bar or pub – something we’re helping the UK’s on and off-trades work towards.”
Larkins Brewery
Based in Chiddingstone near Edenbridge in Kent, Larkins produces traditional Kentish-style real ales. The product range consists of three standard and two seasonal beers, made using only hops grown on Larkins Farm. The brewery delivers to between 40 and 50 local pubs and restaurants, in addition to supplying private customers for parties and weddings. www.larkinsbrewery.co.uk
Long Man Brewery
The award-winning Long Man Brewery is based at Church Farm, Litlington, Sussex in the heart of the South Downs National Park. Long Blonde, Best Bitter, Crafty Blonde, Copper Hop, Sussex Pride, American Pale Ale, Old Man and Golden Tipple are now available throughout the UK. www.longmanbrewery.com
Surrey Hills Brewery
www.siba.co.uk
As the home of the famous ‘Shere Drop’, Surrey Hills is a small, independent brewery on Denbies Wine Estate in Dorking. Supplying pubs and clubs in the local area, it also sells beer direct and runs brewery tours and tastings, where visitors can enjoy a pint of fresh beer straight from the cask. www.surreyhills.co.uk
Tonbridge Brewery
Established in March 2010, this independent brewery’s based in the historic heart of Kent’s hop-growing area. Aiming to produce distinctive, high-quality, cask-conditioned ales at competitive prices, it supplies to pubs and clubs throughout Kent, South East London, East Sussex and Surrey. www.tonbridgebrewery.co.uk
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GASTRO SPOTLIGHT
Sumptuous Surrey
An assortment of delectable eateries, markets, festivals and events awaits in Surrey, which is a favourite among foodies and not to be missed. Join us on a tour of some appetising attractions and delicious dining, as we find out why the county’s such a scrumptious place to eat your way around
F
or food lovers in the South East, Surrey is a gastronomic hotspot that’s full of culinary delights. England’s leafiest county is just a stone’s throw from London, boasting a wealth of stunning countryside views, including the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. With so much greenery on its doorstep, the region has naturally become a haven for leading producers. “Surrey has a great diversity of food and drink right across the county,” says Anna Tomkins, CIC project manager at Visit Surrey. “From local producers growing and making wonderful
food for visitors to buy and enjoy, through to supplying hotels, pubs, cafés and supermarkets, Surrey’s local produce scene is on the up.” Indeed, a whole host of vineyards, breweries and distilleries can be found throughout this part of the world. Denbies Wine Estate (which also houses Surrey Hills Brewery) is one of England’s largest, while Albury Organic Vineyard produces the finest-quality organic sparkling and rosé wines, from vines grown exclusively in the Surrey Hills. Elsewhere, the award-winning Hogs Back Brewery makes an extensive range of traditional, modern and unique ales and lagers.
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Camberley, as well as Cobham, Relatively new to the area is Silent Epsom, Walton-on-Thames and Pool Distillers; located on the Dorking, purveyors sell their Duke of Northumberland’s Albury From local producers growing wares to customers with an Estate, the distillery takes its intimate knowledge and insight name from the mythical, springand making wonderful food for where they come from. fed pool from which it draws its visitors to buy and enjoy, through into “The demand for local produce water, and has helped to broaden continues to rise, with residents Surrey’s drink offering no end. to supplying hotels, pubs, cafés and visitors to Surrey wanting “A real growth area for Surrey is and supermarkets, Surrey’s local ‘home-grown’ and ‘homemade’ the beer, wine and drinks sector,” food and drink,” Anna insists. Anna continues. “With ideal produce scene is on the up “Local produce is more popular weather and soil conditions, the than ever, with conscientious Surrey Hills are now challenging shoppers wanting to know more the traditional winegrowing areas about the food they enjoy.” “Surrey is lucky enough to have a great of the world. Nearly all the vineyards, In addition, ‘pick your own’ is a trend number of farmers’ markets taking place breweries and other producers are open that has caught on and remains readily throughout the year,” explains Anna. regularly to the public, offering tours available countywide, with several farms “Varying from town to village, they and tastings – a great day out, you just to choose from to visit and enjoy the bring local breads, cheeses, eggs, meats, have to organise your transport!” popular pastime. Garsons in Esher – An emphasis on locality is key to Surrey’s condiments, cakes, fruits and vegetables the largest in the UK – has been growing right to local residents and visitors. growth as a gourmet destination. Be it since 1871 and been a pick-your-own Their popularity has also paved the way regular farmers’ markets or annual food for food festivals, with many taking place for over 35 years. Similarly, Secretts festivals – such as the Woking Food and in Milford features a farm shop, and across the county.” Drink Festival, Wisley Taste of Autumn award-winning butcher and a tea shop. There’s certainly no shortage of Festival, Haslemere Food Festival and If you’re in the mood for a warming markets, which savvy shoppers flock to Priory Farm’s Strawberry Fair Food coffee in a cosy café, or a slap-up meal in in their droves to buy fresh ingredients Festival – foodies from far and wide can a Michelin-starred restaurant or glorious and handmade goods. In places like make a day of it, experiencing all the country pub, there are plenty of venues Haslemere, Milford, Godalming and epicurean highlights there are on offer.
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GASTRO SPOTLIGHT
to sink your teeth into as well. Caracoli in Guildford is a coffee shop and food store, serving ‘homemade cakes, savoury bakes, all-day brunches and seasonal lunches’, alongside specialist foods, local cheeses and wines, and more. Chalk Hills Bakery in South Nutfield, meanwhile, is an independent artisan business that makes real bread every day in the old tractor shed at Priory Farm. Plus, Drake’s Restaurant in Ripley has held a Michelin star for 12 consecutive years, showcasing dishes that are flavour focused, with an emphasis on clarity, simplicity, quality and provenance. Alternatively, why not savour some contemporary European cuisine against the unique backdrop of a 16th-century Tudor farmhouse at Stovell’s in Chobham? And of course, no trip would be complete without sampling some of the Great British pubs dotted around, which include The Parrot Inn at Forest Green, Botley Hill Farmhouse in Warlingham and our very own Blue Ball in Walton-on-the-Hill. With all this and more to choose from, you’ll be well and truly spoiled for choice when deciding on how best to make the
most of your stay. Whether you’re partial to pubs or a fan of farmers’ markets, the possibilities are endless when it comes to discovering some new decadent favourites to add to your list of regular haute haunts. “As part of tourism, local food and drink has become a real experience for visitors,” concludes Anna. “No longer the add-on to a visit, it’s now playing a large part in why residents of Surrey stay in the county for days out, and brings visitors from further afield. Guests can taste some of Surrey’s local produce and home-cooked food right across the county.” To find out more about the food and drink on offer in and around Surrey, head to:
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GASTRO SPOTLIGHT
Culinary County
Feast your eyes on five food and drink festivals to look forward to in Surrey over the coming months…
Farnham, Surrey GU9 7RN 01252 712 667 www.farnham.gov.uk
Friday September 9 and Saturday September 10 Haslemere Beer Festival returns to Haslemere Hall for its 10th year, with more than 50 real ales, ciders and perries to enjoy. Tickets from £6. Over-18s only. Haslemere Hall, Bridge Road, Haslemere, Surrey GU27 2AS 01428 642 161 www.haslemerebeerfestival.co.uk
Denbies Wine Estate 30th Anniversary Wine, Food & Beer Festival
Sunday September 18, 11am to 3pm A celebration of English country living, featuring a traditional beer festival, pre-harvest wine tasting, local food, hog roast and entertainment. Bradley Lane, Dorking, Surrey RH5 6AA 01306 876 616 www.denbies.co.uk
Farnham Feast of Food
Saturday September 10 to Sunday September 25 Celebrate all things food in Farnham with local restaurants, pubs, cafés, shops and businesses. Farnham Town Centre,
Guildford Gin Festival
RHS/ADAM DUCKWORTH
Thursday September 22 to Saturday September 24
Showcasing over 100 different gins, including new gins, producers and a variety of entertainment. Tickets £7.50 plus booking fee. Over-18s only. The Marquee, Guildford Cathedral, Stag Hill, Guildford GU2 7UP 01274 888 588 www.ginfestival.com/events
Farnham Food Festival
Saturday September 24, 10am to 4pm A bustling market filled with tempting food and drink, cookery demonstrations and live music. Castle Street, Farnham, Surrey GU9 7PH 01252 712 667 www.farnham.gov.uk
RHS/ADAM DUCKWORTH
Haslemere Beer Festival
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GASTRO SCIENCE
UNDER THE
MICROSCOPE
As part of the National Institute of Agricultural Botany, East Malling Research prides itself on being a leading authority in putting plant science into practice. Director of communications Ross Newham explains how the association is pioneering new and exciting investigations into what we’re eating
A
s the Garden of England, Kent is of course renowned for its wealth of fresh, seasonal produce, which has helped put the county firmly on the culinary map. But what many gourmets may not know is that it’s also the home of science for food, the environment and horticulture, as practised by NIAB EMR, the major UK organisation for research into crops and plants. Indeed, under the umbrella of the National Institute of Agricultural Botany, East Malling Research’s
advances in perennial fruits are known internationally, and have become a significant source of regional pride. Dating back to 1913, the site was founded when Kent growers embarked on a long-sighted vision to underpin their industry through learning and examination. Since then, the institution’s conducted many of the finest and most important studies in its sector. Some of the more widely adopted developments have been achieved in areas of fruit plant culture – in particular, the
development of rootstocks – as well as agronomy, fruit breeding, post-harvest storage and the biology and control of pests and diseases, for both public and private benefit. “Though productivity of perennial fruit crops is approximately 10-times the level it was a century ago, there’s much more to achieve,” says director of communications Ross Newham. “An increasingly affluent global population demands that food supply double in the next 30 to 50 years – with no extra land available, that demand will have
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to be met by producing higher levels of quality produce in a sustainable manner. The aim of NIAB EMR is to undertake high-quality plant science and ensure it’s put into profitable practice by industry.” To that end, the team of scientists is engaged in a multimillion-pound development, which, backed by NIAB colleagues at its headquarters in Cambridge, is delivering new varieties with better flavour and quality characteristics, in an effort to provide the consumer with an ever-improving eating experience across the board. Elsewhere, ecological production helps improve standards, while crops with enhanced Class 1 production levels reduce waste and harvesting costs. Plus, environmental benefits come through understanding the ecology of crop pollinators and beneficial insect predators, providing invaluable insight into the fare we enjoy day in and day out. “As consumers, we often take for granted that we can buy fresh, quality
produce at a reasonable price on every single day of the year – apples aren’t to be enjoyed only from the autumn harvest until Christmas, and strawberries aren’t just savoured during the Wimbledon fortnight,” Ross continues. “Most of the soft and top fruit businesses in the region benefit from advice and support from NIAB EMR, where science is providing answers to food security challenges, delivering new flavours and improving quality, all in a more sustainable way.” Sustainability is certainly key to NIAB EMR’s success, as it supports the longevity of tasty, nutritious and safe foodstuffs, helping producers and consumers alike. Likewise, its strengths in researching clonally propagated crops like tree, soft and stone fruits and mushrooms, have been applied to other varieties like tomatoes, herbs, potatoes, field vegetables and cereals. “The 220-hectare farm at NIAB EMR is part of an international
supply chain,” explains Ross. “New varieties are bred at the site, and new commercial partnerships are being forged to open up new markets and deliver that ‘something special’. Solstice is taking fresh produce supplies to top London restaurants, while other partners are using the research facility to market and deliver their own brands of uniqueness.” Its notable endeavours include innovative research programmes, which aim to increase production and cope with a more variable climate and changing world, in ways that are profitable for manufacturers, but also enhance the provision of other ecosystem services, increase the efficiency of resource use, result in less waste and minimise greenhouse gas emissions. “Key to all of our futures is addressing the very real threats and opportunities posed by climate change,” Ross insists. “A warming climate will enable the further expansion of novel crops and
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varieties; an expanding viticulture sector will expand much further; and some crops considered ‘exotic’ may become commonplace in Kent and the surrounding counties. A more extreme climate will also bring with it the challenge of delivering crops that are both drought and flood-tolerant.” In addition, knowledge and bespoke services are available across a wide range of activities, such as growing
media, crop protection and genetic provenance, alongside expert technical support and development activity in crop irrigation, fruit breeding and integrated crop management. Knowledge exchanges also entail working with industry to deliver basic and applied science to the consumer. Be it through crop improvement and protection trials, commercial services in plant breeding or DNA fingerprinting,
it’s NIAB EMR’s vision to be recognised as the pre-eminent body in the UK, with a significant international reputation for strategic and applied horticultural exploration, development and innovation, as Ross concludes. “Despite myriad advances achieved to date, we’re still not going to meet the challenges of food security by growing crops tomorrow in the same way they were grown yesterday – like all industries, agriculture and food production must innovate,” he says. “Working with our grower, producer organisation and retailer partners, we must look towards a joint strategy for addressing these issues. “We share a common future, not least of which will be how science in the UK is impacted by the Brexit vote. The South East is very much at the heart of the UK’s fruit sector; in turn, this becomes truly global engagement and global issues, which will require the very best of NIAB science to deliver.”
www.emr.ac.uk
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GASTRO IN SEASON
Autumnal Appetites
As hot summer days turn to cooler evenings, there’s plenty on your plate to get excited about over the coming months. James Palmer-Rosser, executive chef at Whiting & Hammond, provides some top tips and handy hints on how to make the most of this season’s key ingredients at home August PLUMS There are two types of plums: tart or very sweet, for cooking or eating. When buying, plums should be plump, smooth and well-coloured. Ripe plums yield to gentle pressure and have an inviting aroma, and firmer plums will ripen and soften at home. If you’re going to be using plums in cooking, choose ones that are just on the firm side of ripe.
September GUINEA FOWL Guinea fowl makes a great alternative to chicken. It has a lovely flavour that’s slightly gamey, but very subtle (much l ess assertive than pheasant or grouse). It can be magnificent when cooked simply, or when combined with more robust flavours.
BEETROOT Many people are averse to beetroot, which is such a shame, because the fresh variety has a completely different taste and texture, so you can’t let the pre-cooked packet versions rule others out of your food index. Beetroot should be slightly earthy and firm, with a smooth texture and undamaged skin, while smaller beets are tenderer.
October RUNNER BEANS I love fresh, young, tender runner beans when in season (when out of season, they go stringy). There’s a little work involved, but something quite therapeutic about de-stinging and slicing them. I serve these with
my lamb cutlet and sautéed potato dish. They’re so versatile and can be used in salads, as well as with some other fantastic summer vegetables. MUSSELS We like mussels so much that they’re a staple on our menus. When buying, look for bright, clean, tightly closed and unbroken shells – fresh mussels smell briny-fresh, not ‘fishy’. When preparing, discard any open mussels that don’t close with a sharp tap. Pull out the beards and scrub the shells under cold running water using a stiff brush, then swish around in three water changes to expel any grit.
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GASTRO GUIDE
THE
GUIDE TO
Barbecuing
Saturday August 27 is National Burger Day, and what better way to celebrate than by throwing a few patties on the grill? It doesn’t matter if you’re a devout veggie or ravenous carnivore – if you’re cooking up a storm on the patio, here are 10 ways to get things fired up without ever missing a beat PHOTOGRAPHY BY CRAIG MATTHEWS
T
he sun’s out and the alfresco dining period is finally upon us, which means we can look forward to plenty of long evenings savouring delicious food outside with friends and family. Far more than just your average meal, a barbecue is a great excuse to gather your nearest and dearest together, and feast on a delectable assortment of meat, fish and vegetables, all freshly cooked on the grill. But knowing where to start can be a daunting prospect. A lot of preparation goes into achieving that perfectly chargrilled, smoky taste, so you’ll need to get your hands on the best equipment you can find, and be ready for all eventualities when loading up your trolley or fridge. To that end, we’ve rounded up some handy hints and top tips to help you on your way to becoming a master chef. You might be partial to perfectly charred ribs and burgers, or prefer a lighter selection of salads and sides – there’s so much you can do when it comes to putting your own unique spin on what you’re eating. So, if you want to get as much as possible out of your next outdoor dining experience, read on to find out how it can be done…
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Use the right gear
Gas and electric barbecues both have their place, but the former generally creates a smokier taste. Buying a grill with a lid works wonders for locking in flavours and maintaining temperature, and a decent pair of tongs, fish slice and oven glove go a long way.
Marinate
If you’re marinating, it’s important to ensure your meat is adequately coated before cooking. Marinades prevent the flavours from being overridden by the smoke, so it’s always a good idea to make a little extra, which you can add as you go, thereby adding moisture, caramelising and trapping flavours.
Make your own burgers
Shop-bought alternatives are rarely as tasty as the ones you assemble yourself. Whether you’re adding chorizo, spinach or your choice of herbs and spices, you’ll
want to buy mince that’s high in fat from the butcher, so that you end up with a more flavoursome patty.
Be patient
It might be laborious, but getting the right temperature and cooking time down is well worth the wait. For the hottest and most even heat, the coals should be white-hot, and it’s essential to light up early, so that you don’t end up waiting around when your guests arrive.
Get the right fuel
Coal is a given for any successful cook-up, but adding woodchips can make it even better. Hickory and oak go well with fish and pork, while cherry and apple wood add sweetness to most meats. Lump wood charcoal gives fantastic flavour and is unadulterated and natural.
Don’t skimp on the sides
Salad, corn on the cob and sweet potato are part and parcel of a truly memorable meal. We all have eyes bigger than our stomachs when gorging on chicken, pork and beef, so why not balance it out with something green and nutritious?
Give veggies a go
Just because BBQs are an excuse to indulge your carnivorous instincts, doesn’t mean you should neglect vegetables altogether. Mediterranean options go down a treat when cooking outside, infused with a flame-grilled kick. They require minimal effort and preparation, and can be tossed straight on the griddle.
Rest the meat
Much like when you cook a steak or roast dinner in the oven, barbecued meats require resting for a few minutes, allowing the sinews to reabsorb the juices. That way, you’ll avoid any unnecessary toughness and can make the most of the succulent textures at their best.
Control the temperature
A rack system will help maintain an even level of heat throughout the grilling process – the last thing you want is for everything to be black on the outside and raw on the inside. Getting rid of the chill from the fridge is a good idea too.
Be safe and organised
Safety’s key when you’re around a hot grill, especially if you’ve invited guests over, so don’t abandon your post. Have everything in place and get all your prep done the day before, so that you’re free to have a drink and enjoy the company of friends.
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Foodie
GASTRO TRIVIA
FACTSHEET
Be sure to mark your calendar for National Chocolate Week, which this year runs from Monday October 10 to Sunday October 16. In honour of the confectionary celebration, we’ve rounded up 10 fascinating facts and trivia gems you might not know about everyone’s favourite cocoa-based treat
It takes approximately 400 cocoa beans to make one pound (450g) of chocolate.
The average chocolate bar contains eight insect parts.
Cats and dogs can get sick or even die from eating chocolate. Every second, Americans collectively eat 100 pounds (45kg) of chocolate.
The smell of chocolate increases theta brainwaves, which trigger relaxation. Eating dark chocolate every day reduces the risk of heart disease by one third.
White chocolate technically isn’t chocolate, as it contains no cocoa solids or cocoa liquor.
In 2013, Belgium issued a limited edition of chocolate flavoured stamps.
The world’s largest chocolate bar weighed 5,792kg (12,770 pounds).
Chocolate has an antibacterial effect on the mouth and protects against tooth decay.
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GASTRO MARKETS
To market, to market With its wide range of fresh, local produce, Hildenborough Farmers’ Market offers high-quality goods at competitive prices. Market manager Janet Richardson tells us more about how it all began, some of the bestselling stalls and items, and why it helps to bring the community together every week
Tell us how the market got started Hildenborough Farmers’ Market was the idea of the vicar of St John’s Church at the end of 2007. We’d lost our village store sometime previously, and now only had a chain ‘convenience’ store, with no atmosphere and no communication within it for locals, unlike our previous area. A meeting of interested parties, some church members and some not, met together over a few months to talk about its feasibility (and also consulted with Bob Taylor from Shipbourne Farmers’ Market, as we didn’t want to tread on his toes, since we’re not a million miles away). The upshot was that our market was opened by Dame Kelly Holmes (our local hero) in June 2008, probably the best time of year, and it was felt that this would need to be weekly to make it worthwhile for the community. I took on the role of manager, with a small team looking after marketing, money, health and safety and website/Facebook. Through word of mouth in the village, we soon had in place a team of car parkers (we’re fortunate in having a large car park), a team that looks after our coffee hall and two small teams that set up the market and clear away afterwards. We’re also lucky in having innumerable volunteers on a one-off basis when we’re holding additional events. How many stallholders do you have? On average, we have 20 to 22 stalls weekly, depending on time of year.
Undoubtedly, our baker, Rusbridge’s from Southborough, is the star, with ‘proper’ bread and a great variety of products, swiftly followed by the fresh fish man, who’s very popular. I’d say that meat, fruit, vegetables and our good deli follow very rapidly. There’s also a selection of cakes and preserves on offer, as well as some very yummy chocolate bars! In what ways do you support the local economy and community? The market attracts around 150 to 200 people each Tuesday, some of whom come a considerable distance. Just before nine o’clock, the young mums arrive after dropping the children off at school, with the older folk arriving that little bit later – and the produce on offer is always fresh and mostly seasonal. It gives an additional outlet for our two very local meat breeders/butchers, and as well as our regular greengrocer, we have a local smallholder bringing salads and flowers. We also welcome the stall held by Princess Christian Farm, which sells its home-produced eggs and local apple juice. This farm is run as a day centre for mentally handicapped adults, and different students are able to come each week with a member of staff, where their interaction with our customers is appreciated and great fun. We do supplement the food market with some craft stalls, which go down equally well.
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Cards, plants, knitted and sewn goods and selected jewellery are also popular. Why is it so essential to support local farmers’ markets? It’s important if you want to encourage more people to produce food with flavour, and without the addition of quite so many additives and preservatives. It’s a bit of a chicken and egg situation, getting the right stallholders regularly and making sure all your customers come and buy each week. Do you think they can ever compete with supermarkets? In the short term, I feel that the battle with the supermarkets will always be uphill, especially as many people have never had the interaction of this more sociable and relaxed, but face-on type of shopping, but it’s great to have the choice. To this end, we try to encourage the next generation of farmers’ market customers by holding food-related events for young people in the holidays, and for four weeks in August, we hold our annual ‘Cooking for Kids’ event, making something different every week, from pasta and stir-fries to trifles and scones. What are your hopes for the future? So far, our market’s been very successful and is proving an invaluable resource for the village, as we hold many small events and host others in conjunction with the market; over the past eight years, it’s become quite a regular focal point for villagers of all ages. We look forward to this continuing in the future, even if we still have to go to the supermarket for our cornflakes and coffee! In the meantime, we’re continually on the lookout for new and innovative stalls. Hildenborough Farmers’ Market is held every Tuesday from 9am to 11am at St John’s Church Centre, Tonbridge Road, Hildenborough, Kent TN11 9HT. To find out more, visit www.kfma.org.uk/Hildenborough
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GASTRO BLOGGING
Food bloggers are incredibly influential...
The food blogging phenomenon is one that’s proving evermore popular for both amateurs and professionals. Freelance food writer, stylist and photographer Louise Robinson tells us more about how the platform’s changed, and why it’s such an integral part of our contemporary culinary culture PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOUISE ROBINSON
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I
n our digital age of smartphones, social media and fibre optic broadband, information has never been so readily available at our fingertips. For foodies, blogging has become an intrinsic part of the online generation’s lifestyle, fusing handy recipes with stunning photography at the touch of a button, as freelance food writer, stylist and photographer Louise Robinson explains. “The internet has given ordinary people a platform to voice their opinions, whether they fancy themselves as a restaurant critic or the next Nigella,” she says. “Popular programmes such as The Great British Bake Off and MasterChef encourage talented amateur cooks to have more confidence in their abilities. Home cooks now have almost the same opportunities
blogging culture has opened up a level playing field, enabling amateurs and professionals alike to share their gastronomic experiences with followers all around the world. Through visually-led social media platforms like Instagram and Pinterest, as well as more gourmetspecific sites such as foodgawker, it’s been made accessible for all to enjoy. “Anyone can set up a food blog; they don’t have to be a chef, food writer, food stylist or photographer,” explains Louise.
as trained chefs to create a name for themselves in the industry.” Former fashion accessories designer Louise started her own blog, Cygnet Kitchen, in July 2014, combining her love of cooking with great food and photography. Based in the Sussex countryside, she’s passionate about supporting local and British food suppliers and artisan producers, and now works with the likes of Great British Chefs, The Japan Centre and Norwegian Seafood. “I started my blog as a creative outlet, but it’s become so much more,” she continues. “It’s great to be part of a large community of likeminded people who are passionate about good food. People like to see recipes from a home cook, as they may be considered to be more achievable. Food bloggers are seen as very approachable, and it’s important to their readership to connect with those who actually create the content.” Perhaps even more importantly,
“Some people see it purely as a part-time hobby, and others an opportunity to change their career. Food bloggers are incredibly important, often promoting locally sourced products and producers, and becoming known for their local food knowledge.” Far from just a recreational pastime, blogging can certainly be a serious business, leading to exclusive sponsorship deals, brand promotions and marketing campaigns with the potential to well and truly transform people’s careers. Such a busy market can be a competitive industry in which to make a name for yourself, so Louise believes you need your individuality to shine through. “Having an authentic voice is key,” she insists. “Many food bloggers make the mistake of copying others in the hope of emulating their success, but blogging is a commitment that requires a lot of time and effort. Choosing an area you feel passionate about will also help keep the
momentum going. If you’re looking at food blogging as a career, it’s incredibly important to stand out. “Food blogging has reached a plateau and the internet is becoming oversaturated, which makes it harder. To survive and thrive, there has to be more emphasis on creating a quality platform with better images and content. Those who take food blogging seriously are usually extremely professional, as they’re out to create a brand.” Naturally, the concept isn’t without its fair share of critics, who argue that bloggers are unqualified to critique food and drink to such a widespread audience. With the potential to make or break an eatery, there’s an argument to be made that they have too much unregulated influence. As far as Louise is concerned, however, it’s all about ensuring the final word is fair and balanced. “Food bloggers are incredibly influential, and their followers trust their opinion,” she
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have been a few instances of bloggers giving bad restaurant reviews because they weren’t given a free meal, which is absolutely disgraceful and gives bloggers a bad name.” Which isn’t to say there aren’t any positives to be found, of course; far from it, as many blogs advocate healthier, happier lifestyles, tapping into the latest trends and using their positions to influence readers for the better. Nonetheless, Louise is keen to move away from specific fads and crazes, and go back to basics by promoting everything in moderation. “There are still a lot of healthy eating blogs focusing on particular diets, such as sugar-free or gluten-free, and talking about ‘clean’ foods,” she reflects. “The trend for endless variations on avocado on toast and smoothie bowls with chai seeds still seems as popular as ever. I’d like to see a move away from demonising certain food groups, and a return to a balanced diet of seasonal foods. I don’t believe food is either ‘clean’ or ‘bad’ – there just has to be a balance.” But it’s ‘credibility’ that remains the key word on everyone’s lips. In such a fast-moving medium, it’s becoming
increasingly difficult for bloggers to be taken seriously, in spite of the shift in how more traditional media is consumed. To that end, Louise is eager to remove the stigma so often associated with her chosen profession, in order to allow it to grow, develop and flourish in the future. “Food bloggers who work hard to create a quality platform and have an engaged readership need to be taken more seriously by brands and the industry,” she concludes. “Brands are becoming more aware that traffic and page views aren’t as important as engagement rates. “Food blogs are often seen as a cheap or free option to gain exposure, so there needs to be a differentiation between hobbyists and professional bloggers. Blogging is now a legitimate career for those creating high-quality content, and food blogs with a loyal following and an interactive community will continue to thrive.”
For photography or any other enquiries, please contact Louise Robinson by calling 07788 660 355, emailing louise@cygnetkitchen.co.uk or visiting www.cygnetkitchen.co.uk
states. “In my opinion, bloggers have a responsibility to provide honest, unbiased accounts of their food experiences. Unfair online reviews can be incredibly damaging to a restaurant’s reputation, so I do understand their concern that bloggers are unqualified to give balanced reviews. “On a positive note for the consumer, it does mean that restaurants have to raise their game, as any customer at any time could be a potential reviewer. There
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Crème Brûlée Tarts Serves: 5 | Preparation time: 20 minutes | Cooking time: 5 minutes
Slightly adapted from a recipe by Hannah Miles from her book Sweetie Pie. You will need a kitchen blowtorch for this recipe. Ingredients Base 260g digestive biscuits 130g unsalted butter, melted, plus a little extra for greasing
Filling 1 vanilla pod 4 egg yolks 80g caster sugar 500ml double cream
Topping 5tbsp granulated sugar
Directions Lightly grease five 10cm loose-bottom tart tins. First, make the base by placing the digestive biscuits in a food processor and blitzing until you have fine crumbs (you can put the biscuits in a plastic bag and bash with a rolling pin if you don’t have a food processor). Add the melted butter to the crushed biscuits and stir well. Divide the biscuit mix between the tins and press into the base and sides. Refrigerate while making the custard filling.
Slice the vanilla pod in half and remove the seeds. Add to a food mixer bowl, along with the egg yolks and sugar, and whisk until thick and creamy. Place the cream in a small pan and heat until just boiling. Pour the cream into the bowl with the egg and sugar mixture, with the mixture on slow, and whisk until incorporated. Return the cream and egg mixture to the pan and heat gently, stirring all the time until it starts to thicken, taking care not to overcook the custard.
Remove the tart case from the fridge and pour in the custard. Cool and then chill for at least three hours, ideally overnight in the fridge. The un-caramelised tarts will keep in the fridge for up to two days. When you’re ready to serve the tarts, remove from the fridge and sprinkle each with a tablespoon of the granulated sugar. Caramelise with the blowtorch and serve straightaway.
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GASTRO TRAVEL
Look what’s brewing in
Described as a self-proclaimed ‘food lover’s dream’ and ‘beer lover’s heaven’, Belgium is home to more than 650 different beer varieties and some of the most iconic breweries in the world. David Mercer raises a glass and embarks on a flavoursome, characterful tour of the country’s finest froths
I
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MERCER
’m about to sample my first beer of the day and it’s not even lunchtime. Drinking alcohol in the morning is usually frowned upon, but I have an excuse today, having just completed a tour of Palm Breweries in Belgium. The country may be famous for its chocolates, but it appears to be just as enthusiastic about its beer, and a number of breweries offer tourists the chance to see how Belgium’s famous ales are made. Palm Breweries in Steenhuffel is a short drive from the city of Antwerp and produces a dozen different types of beer,
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IN ASSOCIATION WITH
in Belgium have an alcohol content above 5%. After sinking my third variety of Palm beer, I take a taxi to the city of Mechelen to meet local beer expert Sofie Vanrafelghem. Sofie is a zythologist who has studied the history of beer-making, and holds events to show how different kinds of ales can complement certain foods. She also founded the Women & Beer movement The country may be famous for to tackle people’s its chocolates, but it appears to be preconceptions about the drink. just as enthusiastic about its beer “My whole life revolves around including the US favourite Rodenbach and a red fruit ale called Rosso. “Brewing beer is chemistry,” the tour guide says as we roam around a production line, before taking a seat at the bar to see the end results. While arguably Belgium’s most famous beer export, Stella Artois, is considered a strong lager in the UK, most of its rivals
GASTRO TRAVEL beer,” she says at her Women & Beer workshop. “Beer is surrounded by lots of prejudices, like ‘beer is fattening’. Not true. ‘Beer’s not healthy’. Not true. Women wouldn’t drink beer with me, so I thought, ‘How can I change that?’” Sofie claims that regular beer drinkers have a ‘really good bone structure’ and a 25cl glass of Pilsner has fewer than 110 calories. “Researchers have also discovered that people who drink beer live longer,” she adds. This is music to my ears. However, she’s keen to point out that drinking Belgium’s strong beers should be done in moderation. One of the more unusual places visitors can enjoy a beer is at the top of St Rumbold’s Tower, part of the cathedral in Mechelen. At 97 metres high and more than 500 steps to the top, it’s a workout to reach the summit of the UNESCO world heritage site, but the effort is well worth
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GASTRO TRAVEL
PA PHOTO/TOERISME LEUVEN
Beer Breakdown
There are almost as many beer styles as there are breweries in Belgium, and with so many options, you can’t go wrong • Blanche: Sometimes called a wheat beer – light and cloudy with a hint of citrus. White beers are young beers. • Lambic: A non-malted wheat beer naturally fermented by wild, airborne yeasts. This draft beer is unique to the Brussels area. • Gueuze: A blend of two or more Lambic beers to create a secondary fermentation with a Champagne-like sparkle. • Trappiste: Dark ales brewed by monks according to centuries-old methods. • Brown beers: An interplay of caramel-like malty sweetness and sourness, gained from several months of maturation. • Red beers: Produced from red barley, these beers are aged in oak. Fruity, sweet and sour and very thirst-quenching.
it for the excellent views of Mechelen and northern Belgium. Duvel, the company behind one of the country’s most popular beers, has also opened its doors to visitors for a behind-the-scenes tour of its brewery in the town of Puurs. With an alcohol strength of 8.5%, the beer is served in a glass called a bolleke. The tour’s popular among men and women, with one hen party clearly enjoying the opportunity to sample some of Duvel’s products. Everyone is well-behaved, though, and visitors are treated to cheese and beer at the end of the tour. De Koninck in Antwerp is the latest brewery to open up to the public. Its interactive tour includes a simulated van drive through the city, and an
amusing bar scene where the brewery’s past owners bicker among themselves as they explain the company’s history. For those needing to soak up some of that beer, Graanmarkt 13 in Antwerp offers creative dishes from Seppe Nobels, one of the Flemish Kitchen Rebels. The Rebels are 25 top chefs who are all under the age of 35 and have a passion for Flemish gastronomy and innovative food. Many of the restaurant’s dishes are made with vegetables grown in its own garden, while it also grows herbs on a roof terrace. While Brussels and Bruges are already popular Belgian destinations for tourists, Antwerp, Mechelen and its many breweries are the perfect tonic for any beer lover.
• Golden beers: These beers are similar to Pilsner lagers, using very pale malts and hops, while retaining ale yeasts. • Kriek: Created in Brussels, a Lambic beer in which further fermentation is brought about with the addition of cherries or raspberries. • Saison: A low-alcohol, refreshing beer, brewed seasonally in farmhouses. • Winter or Christmas beer: Many breweries produce special beers during December. They usually have more alcohol and contain spicing. • Gluten-free beer: The Brunehaut Brewery produces two award-winning gluten-free beers – the Brunehaut Bio Amber and the Brunehaut Bio Blond – both of which were medal winners at the 2011 United States Open Beer Championships.
Travel facts David Mercer was a guest of Eurostar (www.eurostar.com; 08432 186 186), which offers up to 10 daily services from London St Pancras International to Brussels, with fares from £29 one-way. Tickets to any other Belgium station start from £34.50 one-way.
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GASTRO WINE
THE ART OF
Wine
Often compared to executive chefs, sommeliers are trained, knowledgeable and informed ‘wine stewards’ who specialise in all aspects of wine service and food pairing. Armando Pereira, PR and marketing manager for the UK Sommelier Association, talks about this prestigious, sought-after role
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GASTRO WINE
Armando Pereira
of wine production and service to help ensure the enjoyment of dining patrons. The job not only requires one to use refined techniques to serve wine, but also to teach and educate clients on the merits of different wines and vintages, and how each wine might be paired with different types of food.
The job not only requires one to use refined techniques to serve the wine, but also to teach and educate clients on the merits of different wines and vintages, and how each wine might be paired with different types of food
Tell us the background of the UK Sommelier Association The association was started 10 years ago in London by Mr Andrea Rinaldi, who’s now its president. It was his brainchild to introduce the importance of sommelierie to the UK, which is of huge importance in Italy, due to wine being a big part of its culture. What sets you apart from other wine education institutes? We dedicate a big part of our courses to teaching how to pair food with wine, looking at the characteristics of both, which elements of these go well together, and which don’t. This has been a process developed over several years, with the co-operation of some of the most famous and reputable universities in Italy. The curriculum doesn’t only focus on wines; we also go quite deep into
spirits and beers, as knowledge of both is essential in a dining environment. Talk us through the main responsibilities of a sommelier The sommelier is a specialist in wine and spirits service. This professional typically manages the wine cellar at a restaurant, and acts as the in-house expert on optimal wine and food pairings. Sommeliers utilise extensive knowledge
Is there a lot of training required? You can find wine and spirits training at most culinary arts schools, or through programmes offered at some vocational colleges. Top restaurants are more likely to favour certification from an internationally accredited organisation connected to the UK Sommelier Association, which is the largest in the UK. The UKSA exclusively utilises the renowned and worldwide acclaimed curriculum developed by the Italian Sommelier Association (AIS). This curriculum is famous for its technical tasting approach and methodology, patented food and wine pairing techniques, publications, service standards and three-level course structure, which leads to the Certified Sommelier qualification.
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A Professional Sommelier qualification and diploma is issued by AIS after the candidate’s career assessment for those sommeliers actually working in a food and beverage establishment. The Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) is another wine and spirits examining body that offers the ‘Master Sommelier Diploma’, introduced in 1969, and the ‘Advanced Sommelier Certificate’. Someone with a passion for wine can become a sommelier within a year. After several years of experience and additional training and certifications, you can ultimately become a head sommelier, as well as a private consultant with your own client base, wine merchant or brand ambassador. Do organisations like the UKSA help sommeliers on their way to becoming industry professionals? Through our intense five-month course, we open up the world of wine, as well as wine and food pairing, to those who have a passion and curiosity for it. It gives the students a platform to build on, and graduating with us can catapult their careers, enabling them to take on even more knowledge, and whetting their appetites for what lies ahead. They can go on and complement their education received from the association
by attending other schools, commencing their Master Sommelier certification and so on. It’s an endless process, but a fascinating journey that starts with us. In what ways have sommeliers put their own unique stamps on the service industry? Top sommeliers bring vitality and approachability to the wine scene, some discovering fascinating wines and starting trends, and introducing people to new, undiscovered wines and food pairings. Aspiring sommeliers want to do the same and leave their own mark on the industry. We want our sommeliers to break down barriers and misconceptions that some people have; little by little, this message we pass on during the courses can influence the industry and people’s overall perceptions of sommeliers as being unapproachable or ‘wine snobs’. These are unfortunate influences that have been left behind by more old-fashioned, pretentious career sommeliers. How do they enhance a wine drinker’s overall experience of a meal or tasting? A good sommelier will be able to make the customer’s dining experience memorable by suggesting wines that will enhance the flavour of the food they’re
eating. They should be familiar with the wine they’re serving, becoming a storyteller and talking about the winery, or the particular attention paid to the wine by the winemaker. Many sommeliers travel all over the world to taste new wines and attend food and wine exhibitions and events. A good wine expert will know all the current trends in the food and wine industry, and help patrons feel comfortable with tasting and choosing wines in their price range.
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Sommeliers can also learn more about wine through the opinions of their customers – they’re people too and want to talk about wine, educate and share their wine experiences. Our intention is to make wine approachable and understandable; we’re learning something new every day, and the long road to wine enlightenment is never-ending. Sommeliers are often likened to executive chefs – would you say they’re the wine equivalents? Yes of course, they certainly are, and have become celebrities in their own right. Sommeliers are in demand, particularly in London, and it’s a very trendy, fashionable role to have. The majority aspire to make a mark on the sommelier scene by possibly discovering a new, fascinating wine, made in a small corner of a small vineyard in the plains of the Veneto, or the high altitudes of Chile, possibly changing the fortunes of a small winemaker, and their own. They rightly
deserve the equivalent to executive chef or chef de cuisine status, due to all they have to learn, discover and take in to get the message across. Will the average sommelier specialise in particular regions, or have a more general knowledge? The majority have an overall knowledge of world wines, but some will have a particular or personal favourite region or wine and attend specific tastings, visits, seminars and events related to that region to enhance their own knowledge. This could prove to be useful if they find themselves being asked to lead a master class, or work in a particular environment focusing on that region. Are there specific attributes you look for in a great sommelier? A sommelier must of course have a passion for wine, and pass that on to his or her client, depending on the philosophy or culture in their work environment. They should be courteous and able to interpret and read their clients’ needs, through first contact, body language and the way the client acknowledges the wine list. They should lead the way based on what they read in that initial period, when they introduce themselves to the table. They should also be humble, listening to their clients’ thoughts and choices;
confident enough to make suggestions that can make their client feel comfortable; but also brave enough to suggest their own ideas on a wine and food pairing, which they themselves have experienced at some point. Would you say the sommelier culture has changed in recent years? Sommeliers are in high demand and there’s a need for them, be it in a wine store, wine merchant’s, or fine dining restaurant. They’re adding value to customers and enhancing the dining experience, which restaurateurs have picked up on in recent years, thus putting them more and more in the spotlight. Finally, what are your hopes for the future of the UKSA? We’re growing year on year, and our courses and class sizes are growing in size due to this demand. Being in London, which is a melting pot of cultures, cuisines and drinking styles, we’re graduating between 60 and 80 sommeliers per year from various nationalities. We take great pride in the way we approach the education we provide; the students remain friends and become our ambassadors. Our reputation grows, thus adding fuel to the demand of the sommelier fire! www.uksommelierassociation.com
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GASTRO RECIPE
Let them eat cake
Continuing our celebrations of National Chocolate Week from Monday October 10 to Sunday October 16, group development chef Colin Gilbert has whipped up a decedent dessert to see you through the festivities. Read on to make this traditional dish for all you gluten-free fans out there Photography by Craig Matthews
Black forest gateau SERVES 4 Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes
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GASTRO RECIPE
Flourless cocoa sponge cake 155g unsalted butter, room temperature 420g caster sugar 8 eggs, room temperature 130g cocoa powder, sifted
White chocolate and kirsch mousse 3 gelatine leaves 200g white chocolate 300ml double cream 50ml kirsch 2 eggs 1 pinch sugar 1 pinch salt
Directions • Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Cream the butter and sugar in a mixer fitted with a paddle for five minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, making sure to incorporate each one before adding the next.
• Soften the gelatine in iced water for five minutes. Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, then squeeze the excess water from the gelatine and add to the melted chocolate. Stir until dissolved. In a separate bowl, lightly whip the cream, then add the kirsch. Remove the bowl of melted chocolate from the heat.
Directions
8 sheets gelatine 160ml water 280ml whipping cream 400g caster sugar 140g cocoa powder, sifted
• For the glaze, soak the gelatine in 80ml of the water and leave to soften for 15 to 20 minutes. Heat the cream, adding the sugar
200g sugar 200ml water 2 vanilla pods, seeds scraped 12 cherries, pitted 25ml kirsch
thickness of 1.5cm. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until the sponge springs back when lightly pressed. Leave to cool on a wire rack. Once cool, cut with a 7.5cm ring to give four cakes with three layers each.
• Separate the eggs and add the egg yolks, sugar and salt to the chocolate, working the ingredients in quickly. Rapidly whisk in the whipped cream, trying to retain as much air as possible in the mix. Whip the egg whites in another bowl until they form stiff peaks, then gradually and evenly fold into the chocolate mix. • To build the gateau, place
the 7.5cm ring on a tray lined with baking paper. Put a layer of sponge into the ring and spread with a layer of mousse. Repeat this twice more and finish with a final layer of sponge. If the mousse starts to get too warm, transfer to the fridge for 10 minutes to firm up. Place the gateau in the freezer for at least 45 minutes to chill.
and second measurement of water. Boil for two minutes. Remove from the heat and add both the soaked gelatine (including
the water) and the cocoa powder. Use a stick blender to blitz until smooth and shiny. Leave to cool to room temperature.
consistency. Add the cherries and leave to cool, then add the kirsch and place in the fridge to soften
for two hours. This can be done the day before.
begin with). Place in a sauce bottle for use as a garnish when plating your dessert. • To glaze the cake, transfer it to a wire rack and carefully remove the metal ring. Liberally ladle the glaze over the cake from a height in order to get an even covering, then transfer to
the fridge to set and allow a couple of hours to thaw. Garnish the gateau with the cherries, your choice of ice cream and the cherry gel. I also make a savarin mould of white chocolate mousse with the excess.
Directions
Chocolate mirror glaze
Macerated Kent kirsch cherries
Add the cocoa powder in three or four additions, then mix until fully incorporated, making sure to scrape the sides every so often. • Line two 25x35cm trays with baking paper and spread the mixture to a
Directions • For the cherries, bring the sugar, water, vanilla pods and seeds to the boil and reduce to a syrup
Cherry gel
Directions
250g cherry purée 50g caster sugar 3g agar-agar
• Place the purée in a pan with the sugar and bring to a gentle simmer, then add the agar-agar, cook for a further two minutes, pour onto a tray and allow to cool until set. Once cool, place in a liquidiser and liquidise until a fluid gel is formed (a little warm water may help to
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GASTRO FOOD HEROES
Life
in the
slow lane
Promoted as the antithesis of fast food, Slow Food UK fights for a more sustainable way of loving what we eat. Executive chairman Shane Holland discusses some of its key initiatives and incentives, which are changing the way we think about the food we love, both in Britain and around the world
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‘W
elcome to a better way to eat’ is the mantra of Slow Food, the global, grassroots organisation that links the pleasure of food with a commitment to the community and environment. It’s a bold slogan, to be sure, but one that perfectly captures the not-for-profit campaign’s enduring philosophy to ‘celebrate what’s on your plate’ in Britain and beyond. This year marks the 30th anniversary ethos, while Ark of Taste reconnects rare Raw Milk, which aim to challenge the of the movement, which was founded and interesting local varieties back to our unsustainable ways in which our produce by gourmet activist Carlo Petrini, who landscape. In short, these programmes is cultivated and consumed. actively protested against the opening of preserve traditional and regional cuisine, “Food and farming should be good a McDonald’s site opposite the Spanish favouring farming of plants, seeds and for us, have good practice and taste Steps in Rome in 1986. Today, the livestock that are characteristic of their good,” Shane continues. “It shouldn’t international network has supporters in native ecosystems. damage the environment, and everyone over 150 countries worldwide, engaging “Our UK campaigns revolve the public, producers, chefs, around education and pleasure,” businesses and academics to explains Shane. “We run Taste protect our edible biodiversity. Adventure, which is a sensory “Slow Food can be summed journey for children; the Chef up in three words – good, clean Through eating genuinely local Alliance, which encourages and fair,” says Shane Holland, food, we support local skills and chefs to use genuinely local and executive chairman of Slow Food UK. “We’re now the jobs, and maintain those traditions sustainable food on their menus; and Eating Better, which, with largest food NGO in the world we’ve woven into our communities other NGOs, encourages eating and work in 165 countries, less but better meat. We also run partnered with the FAO of the for hundreds of years workshops teaching people to United Nations. Globally, we run shop and cook on a budget, as projects such as 10,000 Gardens well as events where we simply in Africa, which works to preserve should pay a fair price – neither excessive eat and enjoy food together.” indigenous crops in some of the world’s Education is certainly a big part of profiteering, nor keeping subsistence poorest countries as a response to what they do. Taste Adventure prompts farmers in poverty. Our landscape looks famine, drought and war.” children to think about why it’s important as it does because of food farming; the Indeed, the UK branch focuses on a to diversify their diets. Run at 80+ events moment we lose sight of that, we lose number of current issues, encouraging its and locations around the country, it the landscape we all love.” followers to join in activities and support enables youngsters to experience what Elsewhere, No to GMO rallies against other groups that share its values. they’re eating in an entirely new way, the commercial planting of genetically Among its most notable drives are Slow inspiring them to be curious, try different modified crops and advocates a GM-free Meat, Slow Fish and Slow Cheese and things and learn more about where their fare comes from. The Chef Alliance has become equally important, appealing to British-based chefs to champion small-scale producers and promote good-quality, sustainable ingredients. Backed by celebrity patrons like Tom Aikens and Raymond Blanc, it invites cooks to use forgotten seasonal items, helping to raise awareness of
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A better way to eat Here are some of Slow Food UK’s foremost campaigns and projects
national products, including those found in our part of the world. “We’ve made a substantial impact in the South East,” Shane insists. “This was the Garden of England, but is now substantially less agricultural in its makeup. Our Ark of Taste project highlights native breeds; our campaigns on issues like Raw Milk have helped producers such as Sussex micro-dairy Hook & Son; we plant heritage orchards; and we run numerous projects in schools in the South East.” Having doubled its membership in recent years, it would seem that the rise of Slow Food is showing no signs of slowing. Through arranging taste workshops, farm visits, social meals and film screenings, as well as markets, festivals and educational projects, its dedicated volunteer base allows it to
continue campaigning, educating and working towards a brighter foodie future for all to enjoy. “Food should firstly always be enjoyable, but eating the same varieties produced for shelf life and not flavour is never going to be interesting,” concludes Shane. “By maintaining an edible DNA bank, we ensure we have the diversity that allows other varieties to be used if necessary. Through eating genuinely local food, we support local skills and jobs, and maintain those traditions we’ve woven into our communities for hundreds of years.”
www.slowfood.org.uk
Slow Fish Seeks to recover the traditional wisdom of fishing communities – who often haven’t moved far from ancient fishing practices – the diets of past generations, and the known and unknown resources guarded by rivers, lakes and seas. All of these things are part of our story and identity. Slow Cheese and Raw Milk Protects the rights of cheese makers in countries where overzealous hygiene laws forbid or jeopardise the production of raw milk cheese. Gradually, the success of the campaign is restoring confidence and dignity to cheese producers around the world. Slow Meat Based on a belief that the way meat is produced and consumed in the current system is unsustainable. Its solution to detrimental effects on the environment, human health, animal welfare and farmers is to eat less and better meat, pay a fair price, always consider the origin and support small-scale producers. Ark of Taste Travels the world collecting small-scale, quality produce threatened by industrial agriculture, environmental degradation and homogenisation, to preserve the edible biodiversity of our planet. In the UK, awareness is raised to protect our food heritage, so that British forgotten foods may be rediscovered and returned to the market. 10,000 Gardens in Africa Creates a network of gardens to save Africa’s extraordinary biodiversity. The aim is to create 10,000 in African schools and villages, guaranteeing good, clean and fair food for communities and making them aware of the value of their lands.
Carlo Petrini
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GASTRO FOODS
Great
British
Menu
urbanbuzz / Shutterstock.com
These shores are well-known the world over for their Sunday roasts, full English breakfasts and afternoon teas – but what about the foods that put our individual cities and counties on the map? Join us on an epicurean journey as we sample some of the country’s most beloved gourmet greats
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GASTRO FOODS
W
ho doesn’t love a good old British meal? Wherever you go in the UK, you’re bound to find something that will tantalise your taste buds, as there are all sorts of gastronomic favourites and lesser-known creations to sink your teeth into. Whether you find yourself travelling through England, Scotland, Wales or Northern Ireland, you’ll be spoiled for choice in every corner of the land. From London to Lancashire, we’ve selected 10 of our top culinary feasts, some of which you might know like the back of your hand, and others you may be less familiar with. So as to cover all the bases, we’ve made a concerted effort to seek out an eclectic mix that will satisfy a variety of tastes and temperaments, no matter where you’re from or where you’re going. Why not try your hand at parkin in the county of Yorkshire, or treat yourself to some of those famous jellied eels when in London? Alternatively, Cornwall is the home of stargazy pie, whereas Lancashire boasts James Bond’s personal preference of potted shrimp. Whatever you’re in the mood for, you won’t go wrong with any of our great nations’ home comforts.
Potted shrimp
Jellied eals Parkin
Read on to discover an assortment of delectable delicacies to try from around the United Kingdom…
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Arbroath smokie
Arbroath smokie
Set aside your haggis and sample another Scottish gem from the town of Arbroath in Angus. The smoked haddock dish is prepared using cooking methods that date back to the late 1800s, when the fish would be salted overnight, before being tied in pairs using hemp twine and left overnight again to dry. They’re then hung over a triangular length of wood to smoke, and ready to eat in less than an hour.
Bedfordshire clanger
Dating back to the 19th century, this suet crust dumpling is akin to a pasty, with a savoury filling at one end and a sweet filling at the other. The ‘main course and dessert in one’ is generally steamed, but can also be baked for more robustness. The savoury end is usually made up of meat with diced potatoes and vegetables, while the sweet side is ordinarily jam, sweetened apple or other fruit.
Jellied eels Parmo
www.notquitenigella.com
Bedfordshire clanger
Head to the East End of London for a fishy number that’s traceable back to the 18th century, and made from chopped freshwater eels native to Britain. Eaten cold, it’s first boiled in water and vinegar to make a spiced stock, which is left to cool and set, forming a jelly. Another East End food it’s typically paired with is pie and mash, plus some chilli vinegar or malt vinegar and white pepper.
Parkin
Yorkshire, especially the Leeds area, is famous for its predilection for parkin. The gingerbread treat’s produced with oatmeal and black treacle and baked to a hard cake. Holding its texture well, it becomes moist and even sticky at times when resting, but has a drier, more biscuit-like feel in the regions of Hull and East Yorkshire. Hugely popular on Guy Fawkes Night, it’s savoured throughout the winter months and sold commercially throughout the county.
Parmo
Originating in Middlesbrough, Parmo is similar to a schnitzel, consisting of a cutlet of deep-fried chicken coated in breadcrumbs, topped with a white Béchamel/Parmesan sauce and cheese. Variations include Parmo hotshot (chicken or pork topped with cheese, pepperoni, peppers, garlic butter and chilli); Parmo Kiev (chicken only topped with cheese, garlic butter and mushrooms); and Parmo Italia (chicken or pork topped with cheese, garlic butter and ham, with a further topping of mozzarella cheese).
Potted shrimp
He may be renowned for drinking his Martinis shaken, not stirred, but James Bond’s equally partial to this Lancashire meal, which comprises brown shrimp in a nutmeg-flavoured butter. Presented in a small pot with the butter acting as a preservative, it’s commonly enjoyed with bread and cayenne pepper. The 007 creator Ian Fleming passed his penchant for the delicacy on to his beloved spy, having frequently ordered it at Scott’s restaurant in London.
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GASTRO FOODS
Scouse
You’ll most likely come across scouse when traversing the docks of Liverpool. Indeed, the thick lamb stew resembles Norway’s ‘lapskaus’, but differs from the German ‘labskaus’, which is comparable to corned beef. Like a Lancashire hotpot, it contains mutton, lamb or beef, along with potatoes, carrots and onions. You might find it dished up with pickled beetroot or cabbage and bread, as it remains a staple of local pub and café menus throughout Liverpool.
Stargazy pie
Stargazy pie
www.marthastewart.com
Welsh cake
Although Cornwall is more often associated with pasties, this unique pie is created using baked pilchards, eggs and potatoes, covered with a pastry crust. Its name stems from the fish heads that protrude through the top and appear to gaze skyward, allowing the oils released during cooking to flow back into the pie. In particular, it’s eaten in the village of Mousehole during the annual festival of Tom Bawcock’s Eve on December 23.
www.cooked.com
Sussex pond pudding
Here’s a traditional English dessert that was first recorded in Hannah Woolley’s 17th-century cookbook, The Queen-Like Closet. Rich and heavy, the pudding calls for a whole lemon to be encased in suet pastry with butter and sugar, then boiled or steamed for several hours. During the cooking process, the ingredients produce a thick, caramelised sauce that runs out and pools around the plate when cut and served, creating the eponymous ‘pond’ effect.
Sussex pond pudding Scouse
Welsh cake
Also known as a bakestone, Welsh cake is prepared using flour, sultanas, raisins and/or currants, and may also feature spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg. It can be plated either hot or cold and dusted with caster sugar, or adapted as the alternative Llech Cymraeg; this is accompanied by baking powder and plain flour (particularly wholemeal flour) rather than self-raising flour, resulting in a much flatter and crisper cake than its standard form.
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Gourmet Gift Guide
Friday October 14 is World Egg Day, an annual event held across the globe to celebrate this most versatile of foods. In honour of the festivities, why not treat a friend, family member, your other half or even yourself to one of these eggcellent pressies and turn your kitchen and home sunny-side up?
Fried egg wall clock, £30 www.etsy.com Egg-shaped Koop chair, white, £7,390 www.wharfside.co.uk
Mr and Mrs egg cups, £9.99 www.gettingpersonal.co.uk
Hand-painted wooden egg house (12 eggs), £29.99 www.hoipolloigifts.co.uk
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GASTRO GIFT GUIDE
Yolk Fish egg separator, £8.95 www.prezzybox.com Eggs and bacon set by Lamami, £84 www.limelace.co.uk
Imelda five-bulb crystal cage chandelier, £495 www.chandeliersandmirrors.co.uk
White mesh-fronted egg cabinet, £16.50 www.melodymaison.co.uk
Egg skelter, navy, £23.95 www.annabeljames.co.uk
Sunshine yellow enamelware styled egg collecting tin, £8.95 www.annabeljames.co.uk
Eggling chilli pepper, £6.95 www.annabeljames.co.uk
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GASTRO APPS
Grub guides to go
Between balancing a job, family and busy social life, many of us find it hard to dedicate the time we should to cooking healthy, delicious food, and can often be guilty of chucking away unused ingredients. Here are five top apps that will help you want not, waste not and eat right, no matter how busy your schedule is
FREE
FREE
One You Easy Meals
Cooking Fever Cookbook
By Public Health England
By Nordcurrent
Here’s a great way to eat foods that are healthier for you. If you’re ever short of inspiration, you’ll find more than 150 delicious, simple ideas to get you going, help you live more healthily and make the changes that matter. Calorie counted recipes are available for breakfast, lunch, evening meals and puddings, plus you can learn more about being food smart and making better choices.
Enjoy this interactive recipe book, full of tasty and easy-to-make dishes. Discover burgers, pasta, steaks, baking, salads and other healthy and delicious recipes, using straightforward ingredients, step-by-step instructions and timers for easy preparation. All steps are presented with beautiful photos and clear menus for quick navigation, covering a vast choice of dishes in eight categories.
FREE
FREE
OLIO – The Food Sharing Revolution By Olio Exchange Limited
Connect with neighbours and local shops so that surplus food can be shared, not thrown away. Whether you’re a household or business, adding food and other items to OLIO is easy. Simply snap a photo, add a description and provide pick-up details for a lovely neighbour to take it off your hands. For your convenience, OLIO can be used for unwanted non-food household items too.
Cook’s Illustrated
By Boston Common Press LP Need a fool-proof recipe for dinner tonight? From pan-seared, thick-cut strip steaks and crisp roast chicken, to grilled salmon and pasta with creamy tomato sauce, this handy guide’s got you covered. The app arms you with 50 of Cook’s Illustrated’s all-time great recipes and a collection of popular and practical supermarket ingredient taste tests, as well as equipment reviews, recipe videos, kitchen timer and shopping list features.
£2.99
The Photo Cookbook – Quick & Easy By ditter.projektagentur GmbH
The Photo Cookbook is like a private course in your own kitchen, with an experienced cook who clarifies the preparation. Each recipe starts with a photograph of all the ingredients you’ll use in the process, and ends with a picture of the finished dish, complete with any serving suggestions. Beautiful photography, elegantly displayed in high resolution on your iPad, illustrates every step along the way.
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GASTRO SUPPLIERS LISTING
JUICES ARENA PURSUITS & ARENA ORK AWARD-WINNING TEAMW ARENA PURSUITS
Arena is the South East’s leading Team Building, Corporate Entertainment and Outdoor Pursuits company. With over 21 years experience we have developed a wide range of fun, healthy, challenging and memorable days for all ages.
CORPORATE DAYS – Choose from the fast Honda Pilots,
8 miles of stunning Quad Bike tracks, Clay Pigeon Shooting, Archery, Reverse Steer Vehicles, the fabulous 00.7 Bond Days and much more www.arenapursuits.com
A CULINARY WORLD AWAITS YOU ONBOARD AND ON SHORE TEAM BUILDING AND TRAINING – getting the most out of your team with year round Team Tasks, Leadership skills and expert facilitation www.arenatraining.biz SURVIVAL COURSES – developing your bushcraft skills and
making the most of what nature provides www.arenasurvival.com
FAMILY & FRIENDS – ideal for Stag and Hen Days as well as
family groups
WHITING & HAMMOND ARE PROUD TO WORK WITH AND RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIERS AND ADVERTISERS
BIRTHDAY PARTIES – from the age of 6 up – good old
fashioned fun plus Paintballing from 10, Early Learning Driving from 11, Quad Biking from 12.
SCHOOLS SILVERSEA’S
– ideal for induction days, field days, leavers parties and as part of the National Curriculum.
ALL-INCLUSIVEArena LIFESTYLE Fruit Juices
All the fruit in Arena Gold and Arena Black
•
is grown the family farm whichverandas is situated Spacious suites – over 85%onwith private
•
of South East England. Butler service in every suite
•
theseprestigious award winning drinks to give you Culinary partnership for with Grands
close to the shores of Bewl Water in the heart Great care is taken to select only the best apples and blackcurrants maximum flavour and goodness.
Chefs Relais & Châteaux Arena Pursuits Ltd Rosemary Lane, Flimwell, • Free WiFi throughout the ship*
Wadhurst, East Sussex TN5 7PT
• Personalised Tel: 01580 879614 Fax: 01580 879268
service – nearly one crew member for
every guest
ARENA PURSUITS LTD
www.arenapursuits.com / 01580 879 614
info@arenapursuits.com www.arenapursuits.com • Multiple restaurants, diverse cuisine, open-seating dining www.arenagold.com www.arenablack.com • Beverages in-suite and throughout the ship, including
champagne, select wines and spirits
A FRESH APPROACH FROM A WINNING TEAM! • 24-hour dining service •
Onboard entertainment and enrichment lecturers
•
Complimentary transportation into town in most ports
•
Onboard gratuities included * One hour free WIFI per day for all guests. Unlimited free WIFI for guests sailing on select suite categories
Baldwins Travel Group
CALL FOR DETAILS ON OUR EXCLUSIVE CULINARY AND WINE VOYAGES. EXPERIENCE; •
Innovative menus crafted by world-renowned chefs.
•
Private tastings in the most distinguished wine regions of the planet.
•
An Interactive, onboard gastronomic experience presented by Relais & Châteaux.
BALDWINS
Please contact your local Baldwins Travel Group branch for more details.
www.baldwinstravel.co.uk / 01892 511 999
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HEINEKEN UK LIMITED www.heineken.co.uk
HENRY PAUL FUNERALS
www.henrypaulfunerals.co.uk / 01892 825 505
15/04/2016 13:17
BG BENTON
www.bgbenton.co.uk / 01892 767 276
BURNHILL KITCHENS
CORNWELL’S
Celebration Cakes
LARKINS
www.larkinsbrewery.co.uk / 01892 870 328
PENSHURST FINE FOODS
www.burnhillkitchens.co.uk / 01732 373 515
01892 664 044
CORNWELL’S CELEBRATION CAKES
RENCRAFT
FENTON CHANDLER
SALCOMBE DAIRY
FROBISHERS
ROUNDWOOD
FULLER’S
SOFAS & STUFF
SARGEANT PARTNERSHIP
THOMSON SNELL & PASSMORE
HANDELSBANKEN
WALSH BROS JEWELLERS
HATTONS
WARBURTONS CHEFS
HAYWARDS BUTCHER
YOUNIQUE KITCHENS
www.celebrationcakescranleigh.co.uk
www.fentonchandler.co.uk / 01252 851 726
www.frobishers.com / 01392 825 333
www.fullers.co.uk / 020 8996 2000
www.sargeantpartnership.com / 01322 614 681
www.handelsbanken.co.uk / 01322 614 681
www.hattonsrtw.co.uk / 01892 540 555
www.haywardsbutchers.co.uk / 01892 547 702
www.rencraft.co.uk / 01732 762 682
www.salcombedairy.co.uk / 01548 843 228
www.roundwood.com / 01435 867 072
www.sofasandstuff.com / 01892 572 309
www.ts-p.co.uk / 01892 510 000
www.walshbros-jewellers.co.uk / 01892 514 519
www.warburtonschefs.co.uk / 01732 850 308
www.youniquehomeinteriors.co.uk
HEHKU
www.hehku.co.uk / 0800 542 4197
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