The Omaha Metro
Event Report:
Nuit d’Elegance at Le Voltaire
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We had an elegant French dinner at one of Omaha’s premier French dining spots, Le Voltaire. The entire restaurant was open to just ourselves since they only do brunch on Sunday. Both the menu and the wines were French. We started with a Chef Wilson Calixte’s innovative recipe for Roulade of Smoked Salmon, where the fish was rolled around a core of thick Crème Brûlée, making for a raised eyebrow noticeable appetizer. Quite good. We also had Brie Josette to sample. The First Course was traditional Escargot de Bourgogne with Garlic Toast. It was not jazzed up with cheese but had that classic goodness with just the right amount of garlic in the butter. The 2021 Albert Bichot Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit was dry but had rich California type fruit. It was not the usual mineral driven Chablis that is typical. The wine help cut the richness of the dish.
The Second Course was Seared Duck Breast. The Cherry-Fig Compote was a spot on sauce, as fruit always complements duck. Another Albert Bichot wine, Beaune “Les Epenottes” Domaine du Pavillon 2021 was a wonderful match, structured, fruity and well-balanced Pinot Noir. Next we had our Entrée: Chateaubriand with Sauce Béarnaise, Grilled Asparagus and Parsnip-Potato Flan. Chateaubriand is the cut from the large center of the tenderloin meant to be shared with multiple persons. The parsnip served to reduce the intensity of the potato flavor. We compared Right and Left Bank Bordeaux here. The Château Gloria 2018, a Saint Julien Left Bank was opened in what Hasan Hyder calls a Flash Decant. In this case, it was opened 24 hours earlier for one hour, then poured back in the bottle. The Right Bank wine, a Château Latour à Pomerol, was Flash Decanted 24 hours earlier and allowed to breathe 3 hours before being poured back in the bottle. To assist the memory, the Right Bank was placed on our right side, and the Left Bank on our left. What was interesting was how the two reds changed in the glass while on the table, especially the Left Bank. The advanced breathing definitely helped open up the wine.
Dessert was Apple-Pear Frangipane Tart with Frangelico Ice Cream. In an unusual touch, the accompanying wine was A. Margaine “Le Demi Sec” Premier Cru NV Champagne. Being mildly sweet (demi sec) it worked well with the sweetness of the dessert.
Many thanks to our hosts, Michelle & Hasan Hyder who chose some of the wine from their store. Many thanks to Chef Calixte for a fine dinner, and the wait staff who provided attentive service.
Story by Tom Murnan. Photos by Tom Murnan
Château Gloria Château Latour à Pomerol
Château Gloria is a 5th Growth Bordeaux in the Saint Julien appellation of the Médoc. Stylistically, it is one of the most balanced of all the Médoc communes, known for its finesse. Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant grape What it lacks in power compared to the concentration of a Pauillac or Pomerol, it makes up for in complexity and persistence. Long sold in the Omaha area, it is a value wine for the price in the St. Julien appellation. The estate was pieced together in 1939 by Henri Martin, who bought 1855 classified vineyards from three estates in different areas: the center of the Beychevelle district, near Lagrange, and north bordering Pauillac. These different terroirs, ranging from gravel to lighter clay-sand, add complexity and structure, especially the vineyard near Pauillac. The wine blend is typically 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. 40% of the wine is aged in new oak. The owners invested in a new winery facility in 2016. Gloria is now owned by the Triaud family. Source: Inside Bordeaux by Jane Anson 2020.
Hailing from the Right Bank appellation of Pomerol, the wines have a reputation of being powerful with silky tannins and seductive aromatics. Author Jane Anson says Pomerol is the center of Bordeaux hedonism. The estate was owned from 1917 by Madame Marie-Louise Labat who also owned Châteaux Petrus in the 1920’s. She willed the estate to her niece, Lily Lacoste, who was born on the property in 1906. Lily in turn donated it to a Catholic charity that operates in 42 countries. It is farmed and distributed by Ets JP Moueix. (The Moueix family currently owns Petrus.) The vineyard has a clay subsoil, covered by gravel, topped by clay and loam which makes it a little more fertile than other microclimates. It is planted to 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wines are excellent, rich with well extracted tannins, and silky fruits. It is approachable 5 years after bottling. It tends to be quite tannic but “extremely pretty in its presentation.”
Source: Inside Bordeaux by Jane Anson 2020.
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