italian roots The cycling jersey has been through a century of constant evolution. At the birth of the sport, no real consideration was given to riders’ clothing; but the first specific cycle-wear would soon emerge from Italy
In the late 1800s, cyclists could be found in workman-like clothing that was unrefined and utilitarian. Race stages were ridden over much longer distances than today and often lasted well into the night, so wool was settled upon as the best all-purpose material for cycle-wear. The first items made specifically for the sport can be traced back to 1876, and were produced by a Milanese tailor named Vittore Gianni. He had already cemented his reputation for sportswear by applying his tailoring techniques to clothing for clients such as the AC Milan football team and the dancers of the Milan Ballet.By 1910 he was using these skills to clothe a number of Italian cyclists, such as Alfredo Binda, the five-time winner of the Giro d’Italia. Pockets were added to the jerseys to allow cyclists to carry necessary items and fine chain stitching allowed sponsors’ names to be prominently embroidered. Other Italian manufacturers of cycle clothing soon appeared. Emilio De Marchi, for example, had started by making jerseys for himself and teammates. His reputation soon spread, leading to the expansion of the company in 1946. Wool was still the material of choice for cycling jerseys, but finer-grade Merino wool was favoured above all other types. This soft wool, derived from a Spanish breed of sheep, was excellent at regulating body temperature, especially when worn against the skin. It drew moisture away from the body and had antibacterial properties, making it a natural choice for cycling jerseys. Manufacturers were also open to rider suggestions and in some cases were ready to experiment with other materials. In 1954, the first zip-fastening jersey was produced by De Marchi after a suggestion by the French rider Louison Bobet. The Vittore Gianni tailoring company developed a strong relationship with Italian cycling legend Fausto Coppi, producing the majority of his kit, including the first silk skin suit in 1948 for use in time trials. To this day, Italy remains the centre of cycle-wear manufacturing. Although the company of its originator Vittore Gianni has long since ceased trading, his jerseys remain highly prized among collectors – a testament to their lasting quality and construction. 66 THE CYCLING JERSEY
[Opposite page, above] In context. Original photograph dating from the 1930s showing a trainer and riders of the Italian Legnano-Hutchinson team. [Opposite left] Ink illustration of French rider Lucien Michard attired in a track outfit of the period. By L. Defleurac 1922. [Above] Original jersey manufacturer labels from Italy, France and Belgium.