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THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY COOKBOOK

....'!!!!!!o. _ ...::�. THOMAS

KELLER


$50.00 The French Laundry Cookbook Thoma. KeUar with Susl. H.Uer and Michael Ruhlman

Photograph.

by Deborah Jane.

Thomas Keller, chef/proprietor of the French Laundry In the Napa Volley-"the most exciting place to eat in the United States/ wrote Ruth Reichl in The New York Times-is a wizard, a purist, a man obsessed with getting it right. And this, his first cookbook, is every bit as sotisfying 05 a French Laundry meal itself: a series of small, Impeccable, highly refined, intensely focused courses. Most dazzling is how simple Keller's methods are: squeegeeing the moisture from the skin on fish so it sautes beautjfully; poochlng eggs In a deep pot of water for perfect shope; the initiol steeping in the shell that makes cooking raw lobster out of the shell a cinch; using vinegar as a flavor enhancer; the repeated washing of bones for stock for the cleanest, clearest tastes.

From innovative soup techniques, to the proper way to cook green vegetables, to secrets of great fish cookery, to the creation of breathtaking desserts; from beurre monte to foie gras au torchon, to 0 wild and thoroughly unexpected toke on coffee and doughnuts, The

French Laundry Cookbook captures,

through recipes, essays, profiles, and extraordinary photography, one of America's great restaurants, its great chef, and the food that makes both unique.

One hundred and fifty superlative recipes are exact recipes from the French Laundry kitchen足 no shortcuts have been taken, no critical steps ignored, all have been thoroughly tested in home kitchens. If you can't get to the French Laundry, you can now re-create at home the very experience the Wine Spectator described as "as close to dining perfection as it gets."


THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY

COOKBOOK


Copyrlghl C 1999 by Thom•• Keller Deborah Jones Pholographs eopyrlghl C 1999 by All rights reserved. electronically. o� by any means. No porrion of Ihl. book my be reproduced-mechanically. ion or the publisher. permiss written without pylngg Includin pholoco

Published In 1999 by Arli"n n Division o(Workmnn Publishing,lnc.

708 8ro.dw.y New York. N.Y. 10003 www.workrnnllh.cb.com l.ihrnry ofCongrc811 Catnloging-in Publication Dntn Keller.Thomas. The French Lnundry Cookhook/hyThomns Keller wilh Susie Heller nnd Michnel Ruhlman: photographs by Dehornh Joncs. p.

CIIl.

ISBN 1-57965-126-7 I. Cookery. French. 2. French L.1llllllry (Resl,u""II) I. lIelier. Susie. II. nuhlm.n. Mieh.el. 1963-111. Tille.

TX719.K35 1999 641.5'09794' 19-<le2 1

99-32473 CIP Printed in Sing:lJlorc

20

19

III

Design by LEVEL


THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY

THOMAS

COOKBOOK

KELLER

with

Susie Heller and Michael Ruhlman Photographs by Deborah Jones

Artisan New York


IX

Acknowledgments

Pleosure and Perfection

The Low of Diminishing Returns

2

The Rood to the French laundry

Soup

14

28

The Mushroom Lady

3

Big路Pot Blanching

58

Hearts of Palm Grower

31

4

Bllnl

The Importance of Hollandaise

Gorden Canapes

8

The Accidental Rshmonger

74

The Workhorse Sauce

42 84

Infused Oils

45 Fole Gras

103

When In Doubt, Strain: Notes on How to Use This Book

V1

10

124

Cooking lobster 73 Beurre Monte:

Truffles About the Chef

68

39 Agnolotti

6

121

A Passion for Rsh

Toots of Refinement:

The Chinols and Tamls A Sad Happy Story

F I S H -l18

FIRST C O U R S E - 52

C A N A P ES - 1 2

The Importance of Stoff Meal

115

165

135

122


M E A T- 169

D E S S E R T - 260

C H E E S E - 234

The Importance of Trussing Chicken

Vegetable Cuts

202

236

The Composed Cheese Course

Beginning and Ending

305

171 The Importance of Rabbits

Salt and Pepper and Vinegar

205

The Importance of France

247

The Ultimate Purveyors

311

180 The Importance of Offal

209

The Attorney Cheesemoker

248

Braising and the Virtue of the Process

186

The Pittsburgh lamber

Stocks and Sauces 194

"QuickH Sauces

Powders

231

220 228

Sources

315

List of Redpes

Index

316

318

VII


A

c

k n o w l e d 9 m e nt

5 Few people move through their work 3S a solitary force. and no one in the service business docs. As far as l'm concerned. my whole career has been effort.

<1

cumulative

My mom. Betty. was and remains the higgest innucncc. if that's the word. in my life. Long berare she put me to work. she taught me how to clcnn our home, Everything hnd to shine. That standard of perfect cleanliness was its own brifl, given the work I'd cho08e. She was a (ocused, intense woman, the driving Corecarth e family. and she taught through her

Short. nnd Crant Achatz, who arrived with the opcnlng of the new kitchen. have bcen important rorces in developing the French laundry into what it is today. They, along with Stephen. logged many hours quantirying and demonstrating recipes forthis book. Pat McCarty has been more than the French Laundry's accountant-l sce her more as the third legof the rront­ of-thc-housc/kitchcnlfinaneial tripod that keeps a restaurant standing. I am grateful to her. Thcre arc too many stafr to thank individually, All of them make or have made the French Laundry the placc that it is. and I thank every one,

own actions. I honestly don't know who f'd be jf I'd been raised by. and had grown up watching. someone other than her.

past starr and prcscnt.

My brother. Joseph. stecred me in the beginning. even before I understood that my metier would be cooking. and for this I OIm grOltdu!. He kept me on track when I could have gone in any number of Icss­

she and I have been talking about it for twclve years. (It began as a pop-up

productive directions.

her able assistant. Angic Spensicri. but who marshaled the tcam that made

Roland Henin was my chef. He hired me as staff-meal cook at the Dunes Club in Rhode Island, in the summcr of 1976. when I was not yet

writer Michacl Ruhlman: and graphic dcsigner Clirf Morgan. with his

twenty-one, :md tauglll me what I nccdcd to know to learn thc rcst.

design partncr David Hughes. Susie. Dcborah. Michacl. and Clifr becamc

During the ycars between Bcnin and the French Laundry. there was.

For this book. Susie Heller is to be thanked above all. Few know that book!) And it was she who not only wrote and tcsted all the recipcs with this book: photographer Deborah Jones. with her assistant. Jeri Joncs:

3

part or the rcstaurant in order to transrorm its csscnce into 3 book.

among many others to whom I'm also grateful. Serge Raou!. He not only

They're an extraordinary team: take any onc of them away and this would

hired me in New York. hewent on togive me a place to stayin France during

have been a different book entirely,

my stages. and then. most important. provided the opportunity to establish the restaurant Rakel. which proved to bc a transformative lime for me. I would like to thank all my partners: without them there would be no Freneh Laundry.

Susan Lescher brought the book beforc the right pcople and found the best possible publisher and editor for this project. Ann Bramson. I'm also indebted to the team in New York-Deborah Weiss Ccline. Judith Sutton. Dania Davcy, Nancy Murray, and Tricia Boezkowski.

Whcn we were opening the rcstaurant. L'lura Cunningham knocked

The French chef Fernand Point died thcycar I was born: in many ways

on my door and handed me her resume. She quickly took ehargc of the

his cookbook Ma Gastronomic-a book that eonvcycd his sensc of humor

front of the house and has becomc more than a general manager and

and the totality or a life rocuscd on dining-informed me early on about

sommclier-shc's as much a pari of the heart and soul of the restaurant as

how a ehcf might live his passion.

I am. Her passions. standards, and character. as well as her capacity to

I'd likc to thank my entire family for their support and also ror their

exprcss and teach hospitality. have been critical to the restaurant's

understanding. becausc the life of a chef incvitably leads to areas of

success. For all this. and her ability to work so closely with me, I am morc

neglect in onc·slife. I am grateful to them.

grateful than I can say,

Fin:llly. l'd like to thank my colle:lbrues. It's rrom you that I draw

In the kitchen. no one has been more dedicated and loyal, or more

inspir:ltion. and it's your cumulative talent that keeps me striving.

critical in shaping the French L1undry from its opening day. than French

Without the daily evidence of your skill and drive and passion. I would be

Laundry pastry chef Stephen Durfee. Sou. ehef. Erie Zicbold. Gregory

a lesser chef.

Acknowledgmont.

IX


II


Pi e a

5 U

re

and

p e rfeet i o n

no such thing When you acknowledge. as you must. that there is n becomes perfectio toward striving of purpose real as perfect food. only the idea of it. then the clear: to make people happy. That's what cooking is aU about. But to give pleasure, you have to take pleasure yourself. For me.

it's the satisfaction of cooking

mechanical jobs I do every day: tourn6ing a carrot. or cutting salmon, or portioning foie gras-the everyday routine and the for passion daily, year after year. This is the great challenge: to maintain the endlessly repeated act. to derive deep gratification from the mundane. hearts braised with Say. for instance. you intend to make a barigoule, a stew of artichoke carrots and onions. fresh herbs. oil. and wine. You may look at your artichokes and think "Look at all those artichokes I've got to cut and clean." But turning them-pulling off the leaves. trimming their stems, scooping out the chokes. pulling your knife around its edge-that is cooking. It is one of my favorite things to do. Another source of pleasure in cooking is respect for the food. To undereook a lobster and serve it to a customer. and have him send it back. is not only a waste of the lobster and

all those

involved in its life. it's 3 waste of the potential of pleasing that customer. Respect for food is a

CO'I\CI,oll Rllollo

...11.,

Sho�.d White T,ulll.1 f,om "lbo, pog. 88

respect for life. for who we 3re and what we do. The foie gras preparations in this book are among my favorites because foie gras engenders so many different feelings. It's luxurious. It·s raTe and expensive. It·s visually and texturally rich, a very sensual thing. But the slow-cooking short ribs and oxtail and artichoke barigoule bring me some of the deepest pleasures of cooking I know. The process of braising. and the amazing aroma of floured meat in hot oil, is incomparable: taking the braising pan out of the oven to see the rich color of the liquid and the slow thick bubble of the deepening sauce, the beautiful clear layer of fat on top. When you've pulled your pot from the oven to regard your braise. to really see it. to smell it. you've connected yourself to generations and generations of people who have done the same thing for hundreds of years in exactly the samc way. My mentor. Roland Henin. told me something long ago that changed the way I thought about cooking: "If you're a really good cook." he said. "you can go back in time." Cooking is not about convenience and it's not about shortcuts. The reCipes in this book are about wanting to take the time to do something that I think is priceless. OUT hunger for the twenty­ minute gourmet meal. for one-pot ease and prewashed. precut ingredients has severed our lifeline to the satisfactions of cooking. Take your time. Take a long time. Move slowly and deliberately and with great attention. The idea of cooking and the idea of writing a cookbook are. for me. in conflict. There is :10 inherent contradiction between a cookbook, which is a collection of documents. and a chef. who is an evolving soul not easily transcribed in recipe form. A recipe has no soul. You. as the cook.

2

Pleasure and Perfection


must bring soul to the reCipe. These reCipes. a record of my evolution. have been painstakingly documented. but they should be used as tools rather than as exact blueprints. I can tell you the mechanics-howlo make a custard. for instance. But you won't have a perfect one if you merely follow my instructions. If you don't feel it. it's not a perfect custard. no matter how well you've executed the mechanics. On the other hand. if it's not literally a perfect custard. but you have maintained a great feeling for it. then you have created a reCipe perfectly because therc was that paSSion behind what you did. These recipes. thcn. although exact documents of the way food is prepared at the French Laundry. arc only guidelines.You're not going to be able to duplicate the dish that I made. You may create something that in composition resembles what I made. but more important-and this is my greatest hope-you're going to create something that you have deep respect and feelings and passions for. And you know what? It's going to be more satisfying than anything I could ever make for you. T H E R O A D TO T H E F R E N C H L A U N D R Y

In the spring of of l992,I came toYountvillein theNapaValley onthe advice of a friend to look at the French Laundry. The grounds were enclosed by honeysuckle. and climbing roses covered an arched trellis leading into the courtyard. It seemed as if I'd been beadmg there my whole working life. The French Laundry is a sixteen-hundred-square-foot structure, built in 1900 with the valley's river rock and timber. It's been many things to many people throughout its history-a residence. a French steam laundry. a saloon and brothel. and then a residence again before it became a restaurant: its best self. I think. The natural stone modesty comforts people who come here and helps us to focus on our work. I have always maintained that the Napa Valley is a perfect place for a restaurant-it's the only place in the country where people come specifically to drink excellent wines and eat fine food. But there's more to its appeal: Thirty-five miles long and up to five miles Wide, it is American bounty itself. Its first residents. the Wappo Indians. �ever learned to farm. because food just grew all year long. Their word nappa is sometimes translated as "plenty." But the NapaValley has not always been an emblem of rustic luxury. and the town ofYountville certainly hasn·t. "An outlaw town," one valley resident called it. "Prostitution. gambling. Big. big party town. Things going on m unmarked buildings." A North Carolina fur trapper founded Yountville in the 1830s. the first official lown in the

valley. and for most of its history it was anything but refined. The bulk of its population lived in the Veterans Home. which sheltered men returning from the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and continued this role right on through theVietnam War. during which time Don Schmitt. a Fresno banker. and his wife. Sally, moved to town.

T h e R o o d to t h e French Laundry 3


disintegrated into nothing more than By then, 1967. Yountville's glamorous outlaw days had and rooming houses. "It was a homes. a row of bars serving the veterans. trailers and ramshackle regeneration. and. with Sally. its orchestrate mayor. its cesspool." said Don. who would become open .he French Laundry in 1978. The late 1960s was an exciting time in the region. then a rugged territory of undeve loped farmland and abandoned prune and walnut orchards. Yountville sat like a quiet Mason-Dixon line between St.Helena lifting its eyebrows from the north at the townies of Napa in the south.And then a new wave of young winemakers arrived and tapped the power of The Grape. The grape to Napa is like the microchip to Silicon Valley. like oil to Texas. It would within thirty years tr.msform the United States' wine business into a world-famous industry and turn ule valley itself into the most sophisticated agricultural community on earth. I gave the French Laundry a new life and it gave me a new life. I don't sec us as being separate entities. Whatever the value of my skills. my knowledge, my sensibilities, they never would have come together in this book had it not been for the French Laundry.

A S A D H A P PY S T O RY

Autumn 1990 was a sad time in my life.

I was going to be leaving New York after ten years. I would

be starting life over in Los Angeles. and my new employer there wanted me to prepare a dish for a food and wine benefit there that would really wow people. Shortly beCore I moved, some friends took me to our favorite restaurant in Chinatown, and, as always. we went to Baskin-Robbins for ice cream aftenV'ard.l'd been nervous about this food and wine event. I guess it had been in the back of my mind for a while. I ordered an ice-cream cone. The guy put it in a little holder-you take it from a holder-and said. "Here's your cone." The moment he said it, I thought "There it is! \Ve're going to take our standard tuiles. we're going to make cones with them. and we're going to fill them with tuna tartare." And that's what we did.Now J use salmon. but you can really use anything. Eggplant caviar and roasted red peppers or tomato confH make a wonderful vegetarian version.You can do it with meat-julienne of prosciutto with some melon. The cone is just a vehicle. Because it was a canape that people really began to associate us with. I decided t.hat everyone who eats at the restaurant should begin the meal with this cornet. People always smile when they get it.It makes them happy. But I wouldn't have come up "nth it if I hadn't been sad. I had been handed an icc-cream cone a hundred times before and it had never resulted in the be sad to see it.

4

A Sod Hoppy Story

cornet.I had to


' C O R N E TS' 8nl1110n Tnrtnl'c w i t h Sweet Red O n i o n CJ'cnnc Fl'nichc

S A LM O N T A R T A R E M A K E S A l O U T 1/. CUP

C O RN E T S

V.. cup plus 3

ea

toblespoon s oil-purpose flour

I toblespoon plus 1 t

spoon sugar

4 ounces solmon fillet (belly preferred), skin cnd cny pin bones removed cnd very finely minced

1 teaspoon kosher solt

J/.. teaspoon

a toblespoons

3/.. teaspoon lemon oil

(4 ounces) unsoIled butter,

softened but still cool to the louch

extra virgin olive

)1/2 teaspoons

oil

(see Sources, page 315)

finely minced chives

2 large egg whites. cold

1112 teaspoons finely minced shollots

2 tablespoons block sesame seeds

III teospoon kosher salt, or to toste

SWEET R E D C RE M E

ONION

F R A icH E

1 tablespoon finely minced red onions

1/2 cup creme froiche If.. teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste Freshly ground white pepper

to toste

24 chive tips (about 1 inch long)

Smoll pinch of freshly ground white pepper, or

T

to toste

hiS is one of my favorite dishes to serve to large groups of people­ it"s fun to look at. it's distinctive. delicious. and doesn't require a

plate or silven\'are. You can cat it standing up. with a glass of Champagne

and repeat the proccss to make as many rounds as you have molds or to fill the Silpat. leaving about )l{z inches between the cornets. Sprinkle each cornet with a pinch of black sesame seeds.

or ....ine in one hand. At the French Laundry. I usc a specially made Lucite

Place the Silpat on a heavy baking sheet and bake for 4 to 6 minutes.

holder to serve these cones. but you might fill a bowl with rock salt. say.

or until the batter is sci and you see it nppling from the heat. The

or peppercorns. and stand the cones up in this to serve them.

cornets may have browned in some areas. but they will not be evenly browned at this point.

In a medium bowl. mix together the nour. sugar.

Open the oven door and place the baking sheet on the door. This ,viII

and salt. In J separate bowl. whisk the softened butter until it is

help keep the corncts warm as you roll them and prevent them from

completely smooth and mayonnaise-like in texture. Using a stiff spatula

becoming too stier to roll. Flip a cornet over on the sheet pan. sesame seed

F O R T H E C O RN E T S :

6

or spoon. beat the egg whiles inlo the dry ingredients until completely

side down. and place a 41J.l-inch cornet mold (size ::35: scc Sources. page

incorporated and srnooth. Whisk in the softened butter by tlllrds.

315) at the bottom of the round, If you are nght-handed.you will want the

scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary and whisking until the batter

pointcd end on your left and the open end on )'our right. The tip of the

is creamy and without any lumps. Transfer the batter to a smaller

mold should touch the lowcr left edge (at about 7 a'c1ock on a clock face)

container. as it will be easier to work with.

of the cornet. Fold the bottom of the cornet up Jnd around the mold and

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

carefully roll upward and toward thc left to wrap the cornet tightly around

Make a 4-inch hollow circular stencil. Place a Silpat (sec Sources.

the mold: it should remain on the sheet pan as you roll. Leave the cornet

page 3I 5) on the counter (it is easier to work on the Silpat before it is put

'\Tapped around the mold and continue to roll the cornets around molds:

on the sheet pan). Place the stencil in one corner of the sheet and.

as you proceed. arrange the rolled cornets. seam side down. on the sheet

holding the stencil nat against the Silpat. scoop some of the batter onlO

pan so they lean against each other. to prevcnt them from rolling.

the back of an offset SpJtula and spread it in an even layer over the stencil,

When all the cornets are rolled. return them to the oven shelf. close

Then run the spatula over the entire stencil to remove any excess batter,

the door. and bake for an additional 3 to 4 minutes to set the seams and

After baking the first batch of cornets. you will be able to judge the correct

color the cornets a golden brown. If the color is uneven. stand the cornets

thickncss: you may need a little more or less batter to adjust the thickness

on end for a minute or so more. until the color is even. Remove the

of the cornets, There should not be any holes in the batter, Lift the stencH

cornets from the oven and allow to cool just slightly. 30 seconds or so.

" C o r n ets"


To Inol«(" the I"It(.'l1cll:

CUI 111<, dnl fl'OIU the lap of n plruHIC conlnlne-I', 'fl'nee

two cOIl('enll'lc (.'11'(,')e8 on the

lid, the Inncl'

'I 111<:11('1"1 III

lIhulletl.'l\ thl.' out(.',' nbOllt 'I'h Inche-8, S)(l.'lCh n thun,!.> loh thot will mnl«,,'

Ie e-tl"'>' to

IIfl til(' ,,;lencH ofr Ihe ",lIicon'

conl('d SlIpnl. '1'1'111\ nl'otlnd

the (nb and Otltc:'1' ell'c)c.'.

H(,1110\'(-' the 11111(,"

('11"('1(' 1'10

thnt ,YOtl hl\\,(.' il hollow 1'11Ig",

'I'h<, bulIel ' g"('('" "'prencl to Ihe

"'I('IH'II'", (-'dgt.�""

Ihen It'",

:-Ihnpt.'(i round!>!.

Gently remove the comets from the molds and cool for several

Dry them on paper towels. In a small metal bowl. whisk the creme

minutes on paper towels, Remove the Silpat from the baking sheet, wipe

fraiche for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. or until it holds soft peaks

the excess butter from it, and allow it to cool down before sprcadingthe

when you lift the whisk. Fold in the chopped onions and season to taste

next batch, Store the cornets forup to 2 days (for maximum flavor) in an

with the salt and white pepper. Transfer the onion cream to a container,

airtight container,

cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve or for up to 6 hours.

F O R T H E S A L M O N T A R TA R E

With a sharp knife, finely mince the

TO

COMPLETE

Fill just the top

111 inch of each cornel with onion

salmon fillet (do not usc a food processor, as it would damage the texture

cream, leaving thc bottom of the cone empty. (This is easily done using

of the fish) and place it in a small bowl. Stir in the remaining ingredicnts

a pastry bag fitted with a I/.-tneh plain tip or with the tip of a small

and taste for seasoning, Covcr the howl and refrigerate the tartare for at

knife.) Spoon about I'll teaspoons of the tartare over the onion cream

least 30 mtnutes. or up to 12 hours,

and mold it into a dome resembling a scoop of icc cream. Lay a chive tip

F O R T H E S W E E T R E O O N I O N C R E M E F R A I C H E: Place the red onions

against one Side of the tartare to garnish.

in a small strainer and rinse them under cold water for several seconds.

PICTURED ON PAGE 5

MAKES

24 COItNET�

-Cornets-

7


About the

h ef

"The French Laundry is not neW,"TIlomas Kellersaid tlle first timewe spoke. "It's twentyyears old.

by M I c hoe I R u hIm a n

It's bigger than me. A lot of people make it what it is. I want this book to be about the French

c

Laundry. not about me." One of Thomas's main claims is that the French Laundry could not be what it is without his purveyors, and he wanted to include a few of their stories. I traveled from the mountains above Napa to the farmlands of Pennsylvania to the cliffs of Maine to talk to them. Almost all of them. I found. either led double lives or had faIlen into purveying by accident. Ingrid Bengis. a seafood purveyor, was a writer of some notoriety in the 1970s: Keith Martin was a stockbroker before he was a lamber: and John Mood. hearts of palm grower. remains a commercial airline pilot. I found this extraordinary as the pattern emerged. but soon. it seemed almost inevitable. It was only this kind of person who might bring to the work a passion equal to that of the chef. And it was only this kind of chef who would satisfy this unusual kind of purveyor. And so. Thomas told me. "Get the story. I want the story to he just as important as the food: othenvise. I'm not interested in doing <1 cookbook.Thomas himself has an unusual story. How did a young man ,tfith no speCial food memories or even any real appreciation for food before the age of twenty become. two decades later. one of the counlJy's best chefs? There are clues in the critical moments when Thom3S learned important lessons that defined how he would work as a chef. Some of those revelations 3TC in this book.

a

About the Chef


For me. Thomas's gre<lt gift is his example of how to be observant of the world and how food behaves and how we must react as cooks to that food. L.ugel), self-taught. he is <l good teacher. conveying not just information. but also how he got that information. as well as its broader meaning <lnd possible uses. Thus. we have taken time to describe food technique. some basic (soups and braising). some refined (working with foie gras). The recipes run the gamut from simple to difficult as well. Want a real challenge? Try the dish callcd "Hcad to Toe." Want simple? Make the Gazpacho. the Lemon Tart. or the Cream of Walnul Soup. Most of the recipes are time consuming: they require thought and. mOSI important. involvement on the part of the cook. And therein lies the second gift from Thomas Keller. In this age of both intense interest in cooking and hurried. overly busy lives in which there is never enough time. he urges us to move slowly and dehberatcly. to fully engage ourselves in cooking. to regain the connection to food that we've lost in our cravmg for quick fixes. shortcuts. and processed ingredients. This is not fast food. nor is it four-star cooking Simplified for home kitchens. It is four-star cooking. period. Cooking that teaches. that reminds us to return to classical French cuisine both for guidance in technique and for inspiration in creating innovative contemporary food. In the stories. in the techniques. in the recipes lies his call for cooks<lnd chefs of every stripe to respect the food we have and to take more time and greater care in its cooking.

About t h e Chef

9


When in Do u b t, S train : b y S u s I e Hell c r

notes on how to use this book

The recipes in this book are the exact ones the

restaurant uses daily. along with many tips to make them casier to reproduce at home. They have been tested by me, my assistant. Angie Spensieri. �lIld home cooks in various home kitchens. If the degree of difficulty of a dish exceeds your desire to make it. please remember that it's 311 right to do only part of a recipe. Most people. I'm guessing. will not try the piS's hC3d preparation. but it would be a shame for anyone to miss the grihiche sauce that goes with it. It's so simple. and it's great with roast pork. The blini are simple-you need a tamis. hut they'll be the best blini you'vc ever tasted. So be flexible. If you don', want to make the tuile cone for the salmon t3rt3rc. serve the t..rt3re on toast points. If you don't have the time for the stock-based S3uces. turn to the glazes 3nd the eoulis-they're extr30rdin3rily versatile. YIelds are given for many subcomponents. the ones you may w3nt to make on their own. The recipes are built largely on basic techniques. so as you master them-making beurre rnont�, for instance. or undcrstmlding the g13zing and deglazing process-the recipes will become much easier. The portion sizes arc small. based on the multicoursc meals (3t least five) the French L1undry serves. Most of the recipes C3Jl be doubled for larger portions. Perhaps the most important piece of advice is to re3d the recipe through before you begin. Some require time and special equipment th3t you should be sure to have before you commit to the dish. Sources for food and equipment are listed on page 315. Finding certain products may depend on where you live. We use gelatin sheets rather than powdered gelatin. for example. because they work better in the small qU3ntities called for here. Many finer grocers carry the sheets: if they are not available. however. you can order them. Most hard-to-find items like gelatin. Oeur de scI. and bottarga will last a long time.

r hope this book gives you a sense of what is possible in the home kitchen. I hope you get the same smile on your face th,lI I've gotten making these recipes. that Cod-this-is-great smilc when you can't believe how good it is. that real fecling of accomplishment.

10

When I n Doubt, Strain


A F E W ADDI TIONAL TI P S

S T R A I N A N D S K I M. When in doubt, strain.

ot a single liquid or pur6e moves from one pla.ce to a.nolher a.t the restaurant except through some kind of strainer. And you must a.lways be skimming-skim. skim. skim.

TA K E Y O U R A P PliA N C E S I N TO A C CO U NT

The recipes were de....eloped and tested using a home gas stove. If you're using an electric stove, remember that the coil takes longer to go from high to medium�low than a gas flame. Oven temperatures vary considerably. so buy a reliable thermometer or have your oven calibrated, U S E GOOD E Q U I P M E N T. Cet a few heavy­

bottomed pots and pans-you don't need dozcns. Buy two good baking sheets that don't buckle in the heat. And look for a grcat butcher and a good fishmonger with whom you can develop relationships, T R U ST YOU R I N S T I N C T S. Use common sense

when following a recipe. If it calls for 3 pan on high heat. but the food is burning. it's probably too hot.lf a piece of meat looks as if it's overcooking, it probably is, so take it out even if it hasn't been in as long as the recipe says.

SO M E S P E C I F I C S

All eggs arc large. All flour

is all�purpose flour. Salt. unless specified. is kosher. All pepper is freshly ground. All butter is unsalted. All herbs are fresh. For oil. canola all is an incxpenslve. all �purpose cooking oil: vegetable oil is fine. grapesccd oil is preferable. Sugar is brranu}ated unless otherwise specified. Staple vegetables (carrots, onions) and garlic arc always peeled unlcss othenvisc specificd. All recipes include volume measurements, but learn to usc a scale: weighing ingredients is the most accurate way to measure and will yield the most consistent results.

When In Dou bt, Strain

11


I T he low

of

d i m i n i s hi n g

r et u r n s

Most chefs try to satisfy a customer's hunger in a short time with one or two dishes. They begin with something great. The initial bite is fabulous. The second bite is great. But by the third bite-with many more to come-the flavors begin to deaden. and the diner loses interest. It's like getting into a hot bath or jumping into a cold pool. At first. the temperature is shocking. but after

<1

few minutes. you gct so

used to it that you don', even notice it. Your mouth reacts the same way to navors and sensations. Many chefs try to counter the deadening effect by putting a Jot of different flavors on the plate to keep interest alive. But then the diner can't focus on anything because it's confusing.

\VJl<!I I want is that initial shock. that jolt. that surprise to be the only thing you experience. So J serve five to ten small courses. each meant to satisfyyour appetite and pique your curiosily. I want you to say. "God. I wish I had just one more bite of that." And then the next plate comes and the same thing happens. but it's a different experience. a whole new flavor and fcel. PrKed'ng PGoe 路Socon ond [ggt,路

14

page 18. Above. While T,...We Oll路'nluied Cullord, PQile

T h e F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookboo k

16

I I


The way to keep the experience fresh is not by adding more flavors.

Veronique? Sale with grapes. A t the restaurant. I serve a sale dish with

but rather by focUSing more on specific flavors. either by making them

a little marc structure to it. I make a stuffing of sultana raisins (dried

more intense than the foods from wruch they come. or by varying the

grapes) and brioche croutons. fold the sale around it to make a kind of

preparation technique.

package. and serve it with a classic gla�age. It still has the integrity of

\Vhen I decide to make liver and onions. for instance. I might roast

sale Veronique. but with a modern interpretation.

a whole foie gr3S and senre it with four different onion preparations­

To achieve the effects I want, I serve courses that are small relative

canCit. roasted. glazed red. and glazed white. Or I might senre a calfs

to portions you'll find at most restaurants. But small is not the point.

liver with just two of those preparations. The point is to isolate and

The point is this: For every course. there is a perfect quantity. Some

enhance flavors. not confuse them. One lamb course might include five

courses must be small because of what they are: A quaU egg is small. One

different lamb preparations. another might be simply a lamb chop with

bite is enough; two eggs would be redundant. The scallops we get are

lamb sweetbreads.

about three ounces-n :arly as big as a filet mignon. In a meal of five to

When I combine flavors. I do so in traditional ways. Sometimes that

ten courses. you don't need more than one scallop.

lamb is served with eggplant and mint-a combination verging on

With foie gras. though. I serve just slightly too much of it. because I

cliche. But I roast the eggplant with butter until it is a virtual fondue. and

want people to know what foie gras is all about. I go overboard 'with

I infuse the mint into a deep emerald oil.

truffles and caviar too. so that people who have perhaps only eaten

My favorite dishes for inspiration are traditional ones like quiche lorraine. daube of beef. short ribs. sale Veronique. What is sale

truffles in stingy quantities can taste them and say. "Oh, now I understand.

..

Canapes

1S


""hite

Truffle O i l-Infused C u s t u l'ds w i t h Blnele 'rl'uftlc Ragout

� � O

--------- -------

CHIVE

CHIPS

I large russet potato

2

teaspoons Clarified Butter (page

125),

Kosher salt

About

20 chive tips {I '11 inches long)

melted

-------- ----

--------- -- ---

CUSTARDS

T R U f f L E RAGOUT

8 large eggs (with the poper egg carton)

IIJ cup Veal Stock (page 222)

2/J cup milk

1112 teaspoons finely minced block truffle

2/J cup heo� cream 1 % tablespoons white truffle all

(from a whole truffle, pieces, or peelings) Few drops of while wIne vinegar

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

Freshly ground white pepper

112 teaspoon while truffle oil Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

�Inll�' Idens IU'O crcowd shnp)y rl'Olll

Ihe need 10 Inl\l<c lI�C or sOlnclhlll�.

\\'hell rl'lcll<l� lJ1'oll�ht liS un

we Inullcdlntcl;l' (hollght 10 r(.'nlUI'C

thcnl In n ctl�lt\l'd, '\'e hnd lI'urrlc

�Cl'npl'l nnd (!'lIrtie all on hnnd. Thl!'!

dish J!-I ('cully Ihut sllnplc: two

conlponcnlS. the 1l10s1 rundnlllCnlnl

nnd Ihe IllOSt l'UI'crled, COIll(' IOg-ClhOI'

In nn CXII't\ol'dlnnt'y wny, ,\'<, hnl<c the

ctlSlnl'ds In clenned eRgshcll�. then

top thOln with Il'lirtle l'ng-out und

gnl'ni!-lh enell whh n porrect chlvo

potnto chip.

16

The French

Laundry C o o k b o o k


FOR THE

CHIVE

C H I PS ;

Have all the ingredients ready when you

begin and work quickly to prevent the potato slices from oxidizing

Preheat the oven to 275DF.

F O R T H E C U S TA R D S

Heat the milk and cream in a saucepan. As soon as it reaches a boil.

(turning brown). One potato will make about 20 chips. You will need

remove the pan from the heal. Turn on a blcnder and pour in the milk

only 8 for this recipe: the extras make a great snack.

and cream. Then add the truffle oil. the reserved 2 eggs. and salt and

Preheat the oven to 275DF.

white pepper to taste. (Turning on your machine before "dding a hot

Peel the potato and use a paring knife to trim it into a Band-Aid

liquid will keep the liquid from splashing out of the mnchine; should the

shape (straight sides. rounded ends) approximately 4 inches long and

blender be turned off at any point. be sure to place the lid on the

1 inch wide.

machine before turning it back on.)

Bnlsh two SHpills (see Sources. page 3 1 5 ) with the clarified butter

Strnin the mixture through a chinois (see page 73) into a small

and sprinkle each lightly with kosher salt. Place one Silpat on a baking

pitcher. lei the custard sit for a few minutes and then skim off any foam

sheet. Using a mandoline. cut the potato lengthwise into paper-thin

that has risen to the top. Turn the eggshells upright in the carton and fill

slices. As you work. stack the potatoes in the order you cut them so that

ench egg three quarters full with the custard.

you will be able to match them up as elosely as possible.

TO C O O K T H E E G G S

Use n stninlesssteel or glass baking pan thnt is

L1y the potato slices on the Silpat in pairs. keeping each onc's

lnrge enough to hold the egg carton and at least 4 inches deep. If you arc

match at its side. PIOlce a chive in the center of one of the potato slices

using a stainless steel pan. fold a piece of newspaper to fit in the bottom:

and cover each slice with its match. Use your fingers to press and smooth

the newspaper will help to distribute the heat evenly. If you are using a

each chip. removing any air pockets between the two potato slices.

glass pan. this is not necessnry. Place the carton in the pan and fill the

Place the second prepared Silpat over the potatoes. buttered side

pn" with enough hot water to reach two thirds of the way up the eggs. to

down. nnd top it with a baking sheet to weight the potatoes and keep them

form a bain�marie. or water bath. The water should be inside the egg

flal. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. reversing the pan halfway through the

cnrton as well as outside.

cooking process. Remove the chips when they are golden brown. The chive chips can be bnked up to 2 dnys ahead and kept in an .nrtight contniner. TO P R E PA R E T H E E G G S H E L L S

USC an egg eutter (see Sources. pnge

3 1 5) to cut off the Wider end of each egg. Or. if you don't have an egg

Cover the pan with a lid or baking sheet. place it in the middle of the oven. nnd bake for 40 to 45 minutes. or until the custard is seI. (Allowing the custard to cook slowly prevents air pockets.) The finished eggs can be kept in the water in a wnrm place for up to 2 hours.

cutter. rest an egg on its Side on a towel. Holding the egg steady. usc a

FOR THE T R U F f l E RAGOUT

serrnted knife to snw halfway through the \\ider end. Lift the egg upright.

drop or so of vinegar in " small snucepan. You shouldn't taste the

remove nnd discard the lid. pour the egg into a bowl. nod save the shell.

vinegar. but rnther usc it as you would use salt to enhance the other

Repeat with the remnining eggs. reserving 2 separately for the custard.

flavors. Simmer the rngout for 3 to 4 minutes. until it reduces to a sauce

Rinse the inside of the eggshells under warm water and use your

Combine the veal stock. truffles. and a

consistency and coats the back of a spoon. You will hnve 3 to 4

finger to loosen the inner membrane "round the opening of the egg.

tablespoons of sauce.

Working nil the wny around the shell. cnrcfully pull the membrane

TO C O M P L E T E :

downward. remove it . ..nd discard.

and season to taste. Place each egg in an egg cup. Spoon abollt a teaspoon

BreOlk off nny loose bits of shell from around the opening"nd mnke

SWirl the butter nnd tmfflc oil into the tmffle ragout

of rngolll over the top of each custard. Gently stnnd a chive chip in each

sure that the opening is large enough for a spoon to fit through it. Drain

clIstnrd.

the eggshells upside down in the egg carton.

P I C T U R l O ON P A G E

14

M ", I{[ �

8

HRVING�

Conopes

17


" B A C O N

E G G S "

A N D

sort Poached Q u a i l Eggs with A p p lewood-Srnol{ed B a c o n -----------------

---------------

� o

10 quail eggs (ond their corton)

3 tablespoons 8eurre Monte (page

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon woter

1 to 2 slices thinly sliced bocon,

2 teaspoons Brunoise (page

frozen and cut crosswise into Va·inch strips

S

135)

155)

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

erving a dish-whether a shrimp or a small spoonful of creme bnlJec-already "platcd� on the silverware creates an elegant

lift one spoon or skimmer to a bowl of icc water. After they have cooled. trim their egg at a time from the ice water and use a pair of scissors to

impression even before you've tasted the food. J used to scramble a quail

"tails" and excess whites. Return them to the ice water and refrigerate

egg and serve it on a soup spoon: here I've replaced it with :1 poached

until ready to serve. or for up to 2 days.

egg. It's a great little bite. One night a customer told everyone this was so

Place the bacon in a nonstick skillet over medium heat and saute

good he could cat ten of them. So we made ten of them and sent them out

for about 5 minutes. or until browned and crisp. Drain the bacon on

to him on a plate.

paper towels. TO C O M P L E T E : Remove the cold eggs from the water and place them

As the

in a saucepan ,vith the beurre monte and water. Warm the eggs over low

weight of the yolk pulls the egg through the water. the white encircles the

heat. then add the brunoise. along with salt and pepper to taste. The eggs

TIle best method for poaching eggs is in a deep pot of water.

yolk and sets. The deeper the water. the farther the egg travels before it

can be held in a warm spot for several minutes. but be careful not to

stops. and the more the poached egg will resemble its original shape.

overcook them.

You will want to cook a few extra eggs. as there might be some breakage. In a deep pot. hringat least 6 inches ofwater t o a simmer. Hold each

Place

I egg on each of six spoons arranged on a platter. Top each egg

with sauce and garnish the tops with the bacon. Pass the spoons to your

egg on its side on a towel and use a serrated knife to cut halfway through

guests while the eggs are hot.

the larger end of the egg. (It is impoI1ant to cut the large end of the egg.

P I C T U ' H O ON PAG£

13

MAKES 6 S E RV I N G S

as the yolk may not fit through the smaller end.) Lift the egg and remove the top. Stand the eggs in their caI10n until you are ready to poach them.

H O T E : Applewood-smoked bacon or any fruitwood-smoked bacon is

Once the water is simmering gently. add the vinegar. Pour the eggs

sweeter than bacon smoked with a hardwood such as hickory. Freeze the

from the shells into the water. adjusting the temperature as necessary to

bacon to make it easy to slice. Poach the eggs ahead of time and then

keep the water moving. Simmer for about 2 minutes. or until the whites

reheat them with beurre monte. The brunoise. a tiny dice of vegetables.

arc just set but the yolks arc still runny. (If the whites are not fully set.

adds bright color and additional flavor (see the photograph on page 202).

they will break apaI1 when touched.) Remove the eggs with a slotted

18

The F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


C o no ph

\9


POI' WOystol's n!ld Pelll'ls,w I nont one 01' two plunlp oyslel'S on top or tnplocn

CllslnNI. nnd �nl'lIl�h It with Osel l'l\ cavlnl' rOl' whnt hns beeolne a slgnntul'e

d ish,

A

tot or people think this Is on UIlUSllnl pnll'ing, but rol' nlC It's toglcnt:

Inplocn, pelll'ls, ponl'ls, oyslel'!:I' , Log-Ieol 01' uot, Il's 0 vOl'y sensunl cOlnbluntlon,

(Choose o,vslel's with the t h lct'cst shells: t h ey hnve the lnost Juice.)

Cano, PO!)f Oppo111e P,epo"ng Coullflowf' Paono

22

Above O,el.a (OVla.

101

'OV1Ie', ond Peo,11: po\le 23

C a n a p e s 21


Cnvinl' C u u l i rlowel' P a n n a Cot t o w i L h Belugn

3 oysters, scrubbed with a brush

1 cup heavy cream

Kosher salt

J V3 gelatin sheets (see Sources, page 3 J 5)

8 ounces cauliflower. cut into large florets

Freshly ground block pepper

and stems trimmed

2 tablespoons (J ounce) unsalted butter About

I

J

to 2 ounces beluga coviar

) 1/2 cups water

was hoping to make a cold lobster-caulinower soup-caulinower puree on the bottom with a clear "mirror" of lobster consomme on

top. finished with caviar-but the cream in the caulinower puree clouded the consomme. The dish's failure resulted in two terrific canapes: cauliflower panna. cotta a.nd gellcd lobster consomme. We prepare the caulinower as a panna. cotta (traditioIla.J1y an Italian dessert of cooked cream), then coat it with gelled oyster juice. which adds a. shine to the cream and creates a bright backdrop for the beluga

Add the cream and liquid is almost gone and the cauliflower is tender. and completely creaJll the reduce 10 simmer for another 1 0 minutes cook the caulinower. Transfer the caulinower and cream to a food processor and blend page 73). There until completely smooth. Strain through a ehinois (see to taste. should be about I liz cups of puree. Taste for salt and add Soak I gelatin sheet in cold water to cover for 2 to 3 minutes to soften. It should feel very soft. with no hard sections. Squeeze the excess

caviar. The mellow creaminess of the caulinower is enhanced by and

liquid from the gelatin and stir it into the warm cauliflower mi:\1ure

contrasts the saltiness of the caviar.

until dissolved. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the panna cotta into the bottom of

TO SHUC K THE OYST E RS :

Hold an oyster in a towel. to protect your

ha.nd. with the rounded side down. Lean the wider end of the oyster aga.inst the table for support. Push an oyster knife under the hinge at the narrow end of the shell. Don't jam the knife in. or you risk damaging the

least an hour 10 set. This can be done several hours ahead. Remove the oysters from the liquid (discard them) and strain the juice. You will need I/ďż˝ cup of oyster juice: refrigerate the juice.

oyster. You will hear a "pop", twist the knife to loosen the shell. Keeping

Place the remaining If, gelatin sheet and 2 teaspoons water in a

the knife directly under the top shell. run the blade along the right side

small metal bowl set over a pan of hot water and stir constantly to

to cut through the muscle. This will release the top shell. which can then

dissolve the gelatin. Remove the bowl from the heat and add the oyster

be removed. Slide the knife under the meat to detach the second muscle

juice. Stir again to bc sure that the gelatin and juice are completely

holding the oyster in place. Reserve tlte oyster and all its juices in a small

combined. Add about 3 grinds of the peppermill.

howl. Repeat with the remaining oysters. Transfer the oysters to another small bowl. Strain the juices through

Place the oyster jelly in the refrigerator and stir occasionally until it has thickened to the consistency of salad oil and the bits of pcpper are

a fine-mesh strainer into the bowl. pour I/ďż˝ cup of water over the oysters.

suspended in the liquid. Coat the tops of the chilled panna cot ta with I

and refrigerate them for several hours. or overnight.

teaspoon of the jelly each. rotating the bowls to ensure an even coating.

TO P R EPAR E

THE

PAN N A

COTTA:

Cut the florets of cauliflower

vertically through the stems into liz-inch slices. Spread the caulinower

Return to the refrigerOltor until set or for up to I day. To serve. garnish the top of each panna cotta with a quenelle

evenly in a medium saucepan and add the butter and I liz cups of water.

(see page 274). or small oval scoop. of caviar.

or enough to come just to the top of the cauliflower (it should not he

P I C T U U O ON

completely submerged). Simmer for ahout 30 minutes. or until the

22

each of twelve small serving bowls or small cups and refrigerate for at

T h e F r e n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook

PAGl

20

MAKES

1 2 SERVINGS


· O Y S T E R S

A N D

P E A R L S ·

Snbnyon o t Penrl �rnpiocn w i t h Malpeque Oysters and Osetl'n CavinI'

TA P I O C A

1/3 cup small peart tapioca

PI.. cups milk

S A B AY O N

1 112

4 lorge egg yolks

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsoiled buner,

If", cup reserved oyster luke (from above)

16 meaty oysters, such as Molpeque. scrubbed wilh a bruSh

tablespoons while wine vinegar

cut into 8 pieces

SAUCE

1

toblespoon minced chives

3 tablespoons dry vermouth

1 1/.. cups heavy creom

1 to 2 ounces osetra caviar

Remaining reserved oyster iuice (from above)

Freshly ground block pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons minced shallots

1/4 cup creme froiche Kosher salt

T

iming is important in the completion of tbis dish. The cooking

heat for 2 to 3 minutcs to incorporate as much air as possible. The

should be

finished sabayon will have thickened and lightened. the foam will have

it

continuous process. so have the cream whipped. the

water for the sabayon hot. and the remaining ingredients ready.

subsided. and tbe sabayon will hold a ribbon when it falls from the whisk. If the mixture begins to break. remove it from the heat and whisk

F O R T H E TA P I O e A :

S03k the tapioca in 1 cup of the milk for 1 hour.

(Setting it in a warm place will speed up the rehydration oCthe pearls.)

quickly off the heat for a moment to recombine. then rcturn to the heat. Stir the hot sabayon into the tapioca. along with a generous amount

Follow the method for shucking described

of black pepper. Mix in the creme fraiche and the whipped cream. The

on page 22. Trim away the muscle and the outer ruffled edge of each

tapioca will be a creamy pale yellow with the tapioca pearls suspended in

oyster and place the trimmings in a saucepan. Reserve the whole

the mixture. Season lightly with salt. remembermg that the oysters and

trimmed oysters and strain the oyster juice into a separate bowl. You

the caviar garnish will both be salty. Immediately spoon If... cup tapioca

TO S H U C K T H E OY S T E R S :

should have about liz cup of juice. T O C O O K THE TAPIOCA:

In a bowl. whip 112 cup of the eream just

until it holds its shapc; reservc in the refngerator. Drain the softened tapioca in a strainer and discard the milk. Rinse the tapioca under cold running water. then place it in a small heavy pot.

into each of eight 4- by 5-inch gratin dishes (with a 3- to 4-ounce capacity). Tap the gratin dishes on the counter so that the tapioca forms an even layer. Cover and refrigerate until rendy to use. or for up to a day. TO COMPLETE: FOR

THE

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

SAUCE

Combme the vermouth. the remaining reserved

Pour the remaining 3/... cup milk and 3/... cup cream over the oyster

oyster juice. the shnllots. and vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring to a

trimmings. Brang to a simmer. then strain the infused liquid onto the

simmer nnd simmer until most of the liquid has eV3porated but the

tapioca. Discard the trimmings.

shallots are glazed. not dry. Whisk in thc butter piece by piece. adding a

Cook the tapioca over medium heat. stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. until it has thickened and the spoon leaves a trail when it is pulled through. 7 to 8 minutes. Continue to cook for another 5 to 7 minutes. until the tapioca has no resistance in the center and 1S translucent. The mixture will be Slid ..)' and if you lift some on the spoon and let it fall. some should still cling to the spoon. Remove the pot from the heat and set aS1de in a warm place. F O R THE SA8AVON

Place the eggyolks and the 'h cup oysterjuice in

a metal bowl set over a pan of hot water. Whisk vigorously over medium

new piece only when the previous one is almost incorporated (as you would for Beurre Montc. page 135). Meanwhile. place the dishes of taploca on a baking sheet and heat in the oven for 1 to 5 minutes. or until they just begin to puff up. Add the oysters and the chives to the sauce to warm through. Spoon 2 oysters and some of the sauce over each gratin and garnish the top with a quenelle (see page 274). or small oval scoop. of caviar. Serve immediately.

MAI{E S 8 S (1tV I N G S

Canapes

23


Pielded

Oyste rs

w i t h E n g l i s h C u c u m beJ' " C n pe i l l n i " n n d D i l l

o

PI C K LI N G

1

About 3 cups seaweed or Rock Salt Mix

6 meaty oysters, such as Belon or Salutation Boy,

L I QU I D

cup white wine vinegar

(recipe follows)

scrubbed with a brush

112 cup water

1 ounce sevrugo covior (more or less according

路 CAPE L L I N I 路

112 cup sugar

1 English cucumber, peeled

I star anise

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

to taste and budget)

6 sprigs dill

3 cloves

I tablespoon rice wine vinegar

6 coriander seeds

1

teaspoon chopped dill

3 stems dill

G

ood conccpts often re-create themselves in different forms. In this case a great canapc-" Unguine" with White Clam Sauce

(page 25)-led to the creation of another. Picklcd julienncd cucumber replaces the capellini. dill replaces the thyme. and oysters replace the clams. Instead of being served hot in the clam shells on rock salt. this canape is served cold in the oyster shells on a bed of seaweed.

FOR

THE

PICKLI N G

L I QUI D .

Place all of the ingred ients in a

Drain the "capellini" and squeeze to remove excess liquid. Place in a bowl and toss with the chopped dill. TO COM P L E T E :

Place a bed of the seaweed or rock salt mLx on each of

six serving plates. Twirl the cucumber with a fork. as you would pasta. and place a mound in each oyster shcll. Remove the oysters from the pickling liquid and place an oyster on each mound ofcucumber. Garnish each oyster with about I teaspoon of caviar and a sprig of dill. PlCTU'HO O N

PAG(

M A I( [ $ 6

26

S E RVINGS

saucepan. Bring to a boil. remove from the heat. cover. and allow to steep for 30 minutes. This is enough liquid to pickle up to 2 dozen oysters. TO SHUCK T H E OY S T E R S '

ROCK

SA L T

M I X

Follow the method for shuckingdcscribed

on page 22.

Rock salt (see Sources, poge

Wash the deeper halves of the shells and reserve. Using scissors. cut away the muscle portion of the oysters and discard. 'Vash the trimmed

3 1 5)

Allspice berries

Stor anise

Cloves

Boy leaf

Block peppercorns

oysters (the nOL%) under cold running water to remove the milky residue. which would coagulate with the vinegar in the pickling liquid and create

shells nestle comfortably in the salt. and if it's been heated. the mix will

and refrigerate in a covered container for at least 12 and up to 36 hours.

help keep the shellfish hot and give off a fragrant aroma. It can be kept

FOR

T H E "' CAPE l l l NI " :

Using a mandoJine. cut 11It.-ineh-lengthwise

slices from one side of the cucumber until you reach the seeds. Turn the cucumber and continue to cut slices from all four sides of the cucumber.

indefinitely at room temperature. There are no specific proportions or spices for this mix. Use the salt as a base and mix in as much of each spice as you wish.

Stack the slices and cut them lengthwise into 1/16-inch julienne strips to

Mix the ingredients. then store in a covered container at room

resemble capellini. You will need 1 cup "capellini." Combine the

temperature. TIle mix can be reused many times as long as if heated. it

cucumber strands with the kosher salt and rice wine vinegar in a bowl

did not burn.

and allow them to marinate for about 30 minutes to extract excess liquid.

24

This is a decorative and practical base for clam and oyster dishes. The

an unwanted coating on the oysters. Add the oysters to the pickling liquid

The French L a u n d r y Cookbook


"Llnguine" w i t h \OV h i te C l a nl. Sauce

CL A MS

2 ounces Pasta Dough (poge 78),

SAUCE

18 Jinleneck dams, soaked in a few changes of cold water for severol hours, draIned, and scrubbed with a brush

2 large doves garlic, unpected, s!ightly crushed I large shallot, roughly chopped

2 teaspoons Roasted Garlic Puree (recipe follows)

rolled out and cut into copellini

Reserved dam broth (from above)

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

1 2 tablespoons (6 ounces) unsolted buHer,

% teaspoon thyme leaves

cut Into V2·lnch pieces

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

Few drops of white wine vinegar

2 sprigs thyme

2 small boy leaves

3 cups Rock Salt Mix (page

112 cup crisp, dry white wine, such as

24)

Sauvigon Blanc or Muscadet

T

he lIaliao classic refined and reduced to a canape sizc-clams steamed

TO COM P L ET E :

Spread the rock salt on a baking sheet. place in the oven.

open in white wine infused with gnrlic and thyme. sauce made from

and heat for about 5 minutes. or until hot and aromatic. Meanwhile. add

the clam broth. butter. and more garlic. We use fresh capellini instead of

the pasta to a large pot of lightly salted boiling water and cook for about 2

linguini and whole littleneck clams. then serve the final dish in the clam

minutes. or until tender. Gently reheat the clams.

shells. (Do not season the sauce until right before serving. as the clams add 5.'t1t to the dish.)

Drain the pasta. then toss it in the bowl with the remaining sauce. the parsley. and thyme leaves (chopsticks work well for thiS). Season to taste. Place a bed of warm rock salt on each of si.x plates. USlllga small fork.

TO COOK

THE

CLAMS :

Place the clams. garlic. shilliot. thyme sprigs.

twirl a small portion of the pasta and place it in a reserved clamshell:

bay leaves. and wine in a stainless steel saucepan that holds the clams in

repeat to fill aU the shclls. Top each portion of pasta with a warm clam and

one layer. Cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. moving the clams

some of the sauce. Arrange 3 filled clamshells on each bed of rock salt.

around from time to time to ensure even cooking. Remove each clam as it

M A I ([ S 6 S E Il V I N G S

opens. TIlis should take place within about 5 minutes: diseard any unopened clams. Strain the broth through a chinois (seepage 73) and set aside.

ROAST E D

Remove the clams from the shells. Using a paring knife. loosen the muscle attached to the shell. Save the 18 largest half shells for the

1 % tablespoons unsolted buner

finished dish. Pull away and discard the muscle from each clam. leaving

3 large heads garlic

only the tender center section of the clam. Trim the clams as necessary

GARL I C

PURE E

n

1 teaspoo kosher salt

(about 7 ounces)

for a smooth edge. The clams can be prepared to this point up to a day ahead. If you are not complettng the dish. allow the broth to cool. Then place the clams in a container with the cooled broth and refrigerate.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the butter on a double thickness of foil and smash it to make a

Place the trimmed clams and the broth in separate small saucepans.

base for the garlic. Top with the garlic and sprinkle with the salt. Fold

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

over the sides to make a package and roast for l 'h hours. or until the

FOR T H E SAU CE :

Whisk the garlic puree into the clam broth and bring

garlic is soft.

to a boil. Simmer to reduce to 2 to 3 tablespoons. \Vhisk in the butter

While it is still warm. scrape the softened garlic through a tamis (see

piece by piece. adding the next piece only when the last piece is almost

page 73) or pass it through a food mill. leaving behind the skins. Roasted

incorporated. Season wilh white wine vinegar. Remove from the heat

garlic puree should be used the same day it is prepared.

and strain mto a bowl. Pour half of the strallled sauce over the clams.

MAKES A SCANT CUP


You go out 10 nn IInllnn rCAtoul'ont,

:rOU ol'de,. SOll1clhing IIko llngulnc

with clon1 antlce, nnd I h l n l( �\Vhy

don' l I do Ihls. I'cuuce thnl. do I h I8?"

And �"Oll COll1C tip with n run now

ul!'eh-MllnJ:tlllnc" with clnn"l "'ttucc

aOl'vcd In thc cinlll shells, P(.'opl('

cnll ,'dnle to Ihe concept nnd rll\\'OI'H

bcenu�c Ihey nl l'cnd�' I"no\\' how I t

w i l l (nSle.

Canapes

27


'.' II E

28

M U S U it 0 0 M

T h e French Laundry Cookbook

L A U Y :

C O H H I E

G R E E H

Bobcats and mountain lions hove returned

of damp leaves beside her driveway, she

t o the woods where mycologist Connie

drops to the ground and caresses the great

Green hunts, so she always keeps the blade

golden fungus-the "workhorse" of wild

o f her picking knife open. She lives on the

mushrooms. Connie often hunts at night,

side of a mountain overlooking the Napa

the best time t o forage, especially for the

Volley, and in winter she prowls its hills

block trumpet; its spore-bearing loyer, she

hunting wild mushrooms for the restaurant.

explains, gives off a phosphorescent glow in

When she sees a fat chanterelle pushing out

the beam of a flashlight .


Connie Jives a kind of outlaw life,

California up into the Yukon. They live

to Napa with their m ushrooms-cepes;

working only with wild, wild mushrooms-

largely outside society, in tents and cheap

morels; lobster mushrooms; matsutaki; the

"oct·of·God mushrooms," she calls them.

motels, and arc known only by nicknames

lacy, floral�scented cauliflower mushroom;

And she hos ollied herself wit h on outlaw

(Yankee Jim, Coke Bottle Donny), Connie

and the remarkable. rare candy cop. a

culture, 0 group of men and women called

meets them at a rickety motel they've

mushroom that smells and tastes like maple

circuit pickers, who make their living on

dubbed the Mushroom Palace, where they

syrup.

what's known os the Mushroom Trail,

stay up late drinking and telling stories of

picking wild growths from Northern

the trail, and in the morning Connie returns

"They use ports of your mouth you never knew you hod," Connie says. -M.R.

Canapes

29


30

T h e F r e n c h L a u n d ry C o o k b o o k


Sou P

My favorite soups are the amuse-gu cule soups. canape soups. which we serve in

demitasse or small soup cups: just two or three sips of intense lobster. of intense fennel. avocado. or watercress. It's the explosion of flavor that's so exciting-taking an ingredient and making it more than what it was to begin with. Soup is Simple. Identiry your ingredient. cook it perfectly. and adjust the consistency. First. your main ingredient must be of primc quality: Ifyou 're making turnip soup. you want it really good turnip. When you have your ingredient. ask yourselr. "How do I cook this best?" Carrots? They're a root vegetable. so you glaze them. If you glaze them perfectly. there's your soup-just adjust the consistency with stock or other liquid. Green vegetables? Start by " big-pot blanching." then puree. add liquid. and strain-there's your soup. The liquid depends on your ingredient. If it's turnips. you can use chicken stock. because a turnip has a very sharp fonďż˝'ard fla.vor that won'l be lost beneath the chicken flavor. Favas. though, are so delicate and fresh you may not even want vegetable stock. maybe just enough water to bring the puree to the right consistency. We try to make eight soups every day. and the single idea behind them is to intensify the flavor and color of the main ingredient. One spoonful of carrot soup should deliver the flavor of several carrots. A case of watercress makes only twelve ounces of puree. It then needs to be diluted. like an artist's paint that needs to be thinned with a neutral oil before it can be put on the canvas. Certainly there are issues of finesse. such as adding cream. Cream tends to mute flavors. but it adds body and te).:ture. Adding oils to soups finishes and enriches them: the pea soup with white truffle oil is a perfect example. We use lobster stock for two soups. For the consomme. we clarify it. gel it. and top it with creme fraiche. For the broth. we reduce the stock to a glace and cream it: the ultimate lobster taste. C a n a pe s

31


Lobst el' COn SOnlJUe en Gelee

6 quarts water

3 large egg whites

II" cup canolo 011

4 cloves gorlic

1/" cup lobster corol (roc; see poge 33), at rOOm

31/" pounds lobster bodies (obout 12 to 1 3 bodies,

112 cup ( 1 ounce) tightly pocked taHogon sprigs

LO B S T E R

STOCK

see poge 1 24), quortered

temperature (optional, but recommended)

4 gelatin sheets (see Sources, page 3 1 5), soaked

4 pounds chopped tomatoes (7 cups)

in cold water to soften

1 112 cups (6V2 ounces) chopped fennel 1 J/" cups (8 ounces) sliced corrots

CLARIFICATION

3 cups (8 ounces) sliced button mushrooms

Generous V" cup ( 1 112 ounces) chopped fennel

1 112 cups (6 ounces) sliced shallots

Generous J/" cup (4 ounces) chopped carrots

1/2 cup creme froiche, whipped

113 cup (2 ounces) chopped onion

About 2 tablespoons Brunoise (page I SS)

1 cup dry vermouth

B

e sure to have the corrcct amount of liquid before adding the gelatin: simmer the stock to reduce it to the exact quantity

specified. Because this soup is cxtradorinarily rich-lobster essence. magnified-we serve it

very small bowls Or demitasse cups. just two

ounces per serving. This recipe will make four cups of consomm�. I

RAFT A small piece of lobster carol (optlonol)

stir o r force any remaining solids through t h e strainer: they would cloud the stock. There should be approximately 4 quarts of stock. Let cool to room temperature. The stock can be refrigerated for up to 1 day. Remove and discard any fat from the top of the stock. then place it in a heavy pot. Finely grind the fcnnel. carrots,

don't recommend reducing the recipe further. bUI any extra consomme

FOR THE

can be frozen.

and onion in a meat grinder or food processor. Whisk the egg whites and

C L A R I F I C AT I O N

R A F T;

the 1/4 cup coral in a bowl until frothy. then stir in the ground vegetablcs. Heat the oil in 3 large rondeau. or deep straight­

Whisk the vegetable mixture into the cold stock. Place the pot over

sided braising pan. overmediurn-high heat just until it smokes. Add the

low heat ;md stir constantly with a wooden spoon until it reaches 128°F.

lobster bodies and saut�. turning often. until they turn red. 3 to 4

Stop stirring and bring the stock to a simmer.

F O R T H E STOCK ,

minutes. Be careful not to lct them burn. Of your pot is not large enough to accomplish this easily. do it in two batches.) Add the fennel. carrots. mushrooms. and shallots. Continue

32

As the liquid begins to simmer. a raft will form over the stock. Cut a 1 - to 2-inch "breather" hole in the side of the raft. You will be able to see the movement of the simmering stock through the hole. The raCt acts as

cooking. stirring occasionally. for about 10 minutes. to soften but not

a filter to clarify the stock. The liquid may simmer up through the raft in

color the vegetables. Add the vermouth. watcr. garlic. tarragon, and

a few spots. but it should never be 3t a full boil. which would break the

tomatoes and bring 10 a boil. then reduce the heat and let the stock

clarificalion raft and cloud the consomme. Simmer for I hour. Be sure

simmer for 2 hours.

to keep the breather hole open.

Strain the stock through a China cap (see page 73), smashing the

Line a China cap with a damp towel or cheesecloth and set it over a

shells and vegetables with a wooden spoon to extract as much liquid as

deep container. Leaving behind as much of the raft as possible. 13dle the

possible. Discard the shells and vcgetables and pour the stock through a

stock slowly down the side of the cloth. starting at the top of the strainer.

chinois (sec page 73), tapping the top rim to help it run through. Do not

(Pouring it this way will keep the liquid from pushing through any fat or

T h e French Laundry Cookbook


Mnldng COnSOIll.1l10 Is nn cxnctlng

process. but tho I'CSllUS nl'o ommdng.

Thc pO\\'Crtul lobster JClly luelts I n your

rllOl1th nlld thc vogetnblcs odtl 0 subtlc

bite. The co1'1\1 Is not only n color

bUI'SI.

tt

provides tm l t l nC8ďż˝ to thc swect

lol>stel': nnd the field In the CI'cntC

h'niehc n1u)<es nl1 thcse co101's llnd

rlnvors ond tCXHII'CS spo l¡ldc.

impurities that gather in the bottom oC the China cap.) Tilt the pot as

when ready to usc. defrost the consomme and bring to a boil. then cool

necessary to reach as much clear stock as possible. Leave behind any

as above and allow to re-gel in the refrigerator,

that doesn't look clear and discard it along with the raCt. You should have

FOR THE

about 2 quarts of consomme.

'\Tap. Place it ina resealable plastic bag, pressingout any air from the bag.

L O B S T E R C O R A L (O P T I O N A L)

Wrap the coral in plastic

You will be able to see. floating on top, any fat remaining in the

and seal the bagwell. Submerge it in boiling water and cook the coral until

consomme. Gently lay a paper towel on top oC the liquid and quickly

it has turned bright red (you are making hard-boilcd eggs!). Remove the

glide it over the surface. Discard the towel and repeat several more times

coral from the bag and refrigerate it for an hour. or until it is cold.

until there is no remaining Cat (which could cloud the consomme).

Grate or grind the coral in a mini-blender or grinder. Store the

Line a chinois with a clean towel or cheesecloth and strain the

ground coral in the refrigerator until ready to usc, or forup to I day. or

consomme one last time into a pot. Bring it to a simmer and reduce the

wrap well and freelc for up to several months. (The cooked coral can

consomme to I quart. Pour l Oto a container.

be frolcn as a solid piece and then grated while still frolen when ready

Squeeze the gelatin sheets dry and stir them into the hal consomme

to use.) Break up the cold consomme with a spoon and place

until completely dissolved. Set in a larger container oC icc and water and

TO CO M P L E T E :

let cool to room tcmperature. stirring occasionally. then refrigerate.

about 1/. cup in each serving cup or bowl. Top each serving of consomme

covered. for several hours, or overnight. to gel . The consomme will keep

with a quenelle (see page 274), or small oval scoop. of whipped cr(!me

refrigerated Cor up to 3 days (after 3 days. it can be reboiled and kept for

fraiche and sprinkle ,'lith the brunoise and. if using, grated lobster coral.

I to 2 more days). For longer storage. it can be frozen for up to 1 month:

"' A le t s 1 6 H R V I N G S ( 4 c u p s )

C o n o ph

33


34

T h e Fre n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


C l'CO Ill.Y

M a i n e Lobsler B l'Olh

Gazpacho

114 cup conolo oil

3 10bsler bodies

1 cup chopped red onIons

(12 Ounces tOlal, see page 1 24), cut into quarters

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

1 112 cups chopped tomatoes

1 cup chopped English cucumber

1/2 cup chopped corrals

1 cup peeled and chopped tomatoes

1 bunch tarragon (1/2 ounce)

1 % teaspoons chopped garlic

2 cups heavy cream

1 112 teospoons kosher salt

l obsters and cream is a luxurious combination. intensified here in the L form of a canape. soup. 1 froth the broth before serving it. When you arc preparing lobsters. save the bodies to make this broth

1/.. teaspoon cayenne 11" cup tomoto paste 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

114 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

(freeze them if need be for future use). This is a very rich soup. best

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

served in small portions.

3 cups tomato luice Sprig of thyme

Heat the oil in a large rondeau. or deep straight-sided braising pan. Add

Balsamic Gloze (poge 23B), in a squeeze boHle

the lobster shells and scar over medium-high heat for I to 2 minUles per side. until they turn red. (If your pot is not big enough to accomplish this easily. do it in two batches.) Add the tomatoes. carrots. and

D

on't always think of gazpacho as soup. Think of it as a sauce. Think of it hot as well as cold. It goes beautifully with grilled chicken or

tarragon. cover the shells and vegetables with water. and bring to a boil.

fish. Gazpacho

Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer

Laundry. garnished with balsamic glaze. or as a sauce with the Salad of

over low heal for 1 hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer or a

Globe Artlchokcs with Garden Herbs and Gazpacho (page 62). It can

China cap (see page 73). smashing the lobster bodies with a wooden

also be served

spoon to extract all the liquid. and then strain again through a chinois

couldn't bc easier; it achieves its powerful flavor simply by overnight

(see page 73) into a clean saucepan.

maceration. which is the only "cooking" involved.

IS

m

served in small portions as a canape at the French

larger portions as a tradillonal cold soup. This soup

Return the strained stock to the stove and simmer until it is reduced to I cup. Add the heavy cream. return to a simmer. and cook. skimming

Mix all the ingredients except the balsamic glaze together in a bowl or

occasionally. until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. Strain through a

other container. co\'cr. and lei sit in the refrigerator overnight.

the

The next day. remove the thyme and blend all the ingredients in a

strainer. Cover and refrigerate the broth for several hours to chill. or for

blender until the gazpacho IS smooth. You will have about 2 quarts. For

up to 3 days.

a smoother tex1ure. strain the soup to yield about I quart. Refrigerate

chinois into a container. discarding any solids remaining

TO

COMPLETE

m

Place the cold broth in a heavy saucepan and whisk

thc gazpacho until ready to serve. L1dlc the cold soup into bowls and squeezc dots of

vigorously over medium heat as you reheat it. The broth will froth as you

TO

whisk in air. Pour the hot broth into demitasse cups.

balsamic glaze over the top.

PICTUIHO ON

PAG(

34

M A K l S 6 TO 8 S E RV I N G S ( 2 cu p s )

C O M P LETE

MAKES 8

TO

1 6 SERVINGS

Canaph

35


36

The French Loundry Cookbook


P u ree of E n "" j i s h Pen S o u p \\'I 1 1 1. � b

3 pounds English pem, shelled (about 3 cups)

7 quor1s water About I cup sugar

\", Il l. t e I l'u l rl c O i l o l l d POl'lncsnn C r1 8 p s • .

.

1 112 Cups kosher salt

v.. cup white truHle oil

V..c to V2 cup Vegetable Stock (page 227)

6 to 1 2 Parmesan Crisps (recipe follows>

1/4 cup water

( 1 per serving)

Kosher so[t and freshly ground white pepper

T

his soup should be served the the same day it's made. as it will oxidize. or discolor. over time. The vivid green oCthe soup results

puree and blend. (The color of the soup will lighten from the air blended

extraordinary visual impact. The success of this recipe relics on the quality of the peas. Look for small sweet peas. Taste your peas for

consistency of the soup. If it is too thick and needs more liquid. add

in

.m

sweetness to determine the alllount of sugar to add to the water (make this soup in cnrly summer when English peas arc at their peak). A Parmesan CriSp is placed on each scrvingcup as a "lid": be sure to make the crisps a size appropriate to your cups. This soup can be served hot 01' cold. but either way. I like to enrich it with white tnlffle oil. which enhances its luxurious flavor and texture.

into it. but it will return to dark green after it sits.> Chcck the either more vcgetablc stock or more waleI'. depending on how flavorful the soup is. and blend again. Add a pinch of salt. white pepper to taste. and blend again. POtlr the soup through a chinois (sec page 73). If you are serving the soup cold. stir in thc truffle oil and rcfrigerate the soup in a covered container until serving. If you are serving the soup hot. reheat gently over low heat and stir in the tnlrne oil just before serving. Serve the soup garnished with the Parmesan criSp "lids," MAKES 6

TO

1 2 SERVINGS

(AaouT

3

cups)

Place the peas in a bowl. cover them with ICC. and toss together to chill the peas (this step will help return thcir bright color).

PARM E S AN

C RIS P S

Bring the watcr to a rolling boil in a largc pot and add the sugar and salt. Lift up a slllall batch of peas with a strainer. letting the ice fall back

112 cup finely groled ParmigJono·Reggiono (from 0 moist pIece of cheese)

into the bowl. and add them to the watcr. It is important that the water returns to a boil almost immediately to kcep the peasa vivid grcen color:

These crisps can be made in any size. but it's important to usc freshly

it may not if too many peas are added. so adjust the quantity added as

grated Parmigiano- Reggiano. These are easy and have many uses-serve

necessary to maintain the boil. Cook the peas until they are lender and

them with salads or soups. or use them to hold goat cheese mousse

fully cookcd. 7 to 1 0 minutcs. depending on the quantity and quality of

(page 49)-but be sure to make cxtra. because you'lI want to eat a fcw

pcas added.

while you're making them.

While the peas cook. place a colander in a bowl of ice water. (This will make it easier to remove the chilled cooked peas from the ice.)

Preheat the oven to 325°F'. Line a baking shcet wilh a Silpat (sec Sources.

When the peas are tender. remove them to the colander to chill as

pagc 3 1 S) .

quickly as possible. Lift the colander from the icc bath and drain the peas well. Repeat this process until all the pcas arc cooked. Puree the peas in a food processor. then scrape the puree through a

Sprinkle about 2 teaspoons o f the cheese in one corner of the Silpat. Usc your fingers to spread the cheese into a 2-inch circle. Repeat with the remaining cheese: you should have about 12 rounds.

tamis (sec page 73). (If the vegetables are cooked correctly. some oCthe

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. oruntil they arc goldcn brown. Use a small

puree Will stick to the bottom of the wire screen. and you will have to

spanl1a to transfer them to paper towels. They will still be soft when they

scrape it ofr.) You should have about 2 cups of puree.

are removed but will stiffen as they cool. Store the crisps in an airtight

Place % cup vegetable stock and the water III a large blender (if your blender is smnll you may want to do this in two batches). Add the pea

container for up to 2 days. M A I( [ S A 8 0 U T T W E LV E

2 ' I N C I1 C R I S P S

Canaplh

37


Oppo,lt., r.ght

38

811.,. with Swcret Rooucrd Pc-ppo

T h e French L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

••

and Eggplont

Co�tor,

pogo

.. 1


Blin i

are an elegant way to begin a meaL They're Itght. creamy. and refined. and

they're a wonderful vehicle for garnishes. so we serve them six or seven different ways. treating them, in effect. like a luxurious potato, The blini almost dissolve on your tongue. leaving the flavors of the garnishes. One way we serve them is with roasted peppers and eggpbnt caviar. Another is with bOltarga. a bright lasty garnish. especially when paired with the rich. buttery tomato con Cit. BUI blini arc great even with just a little fresh butter. Although we make them small. there's no reason you can't make them larger.

Co flO p h

39


B U n ! w i t h Bottarga d i M u g g i n e o n d C o n f i t o f TOlTIuto

Yul<on G o l d Potato B H n !

1/" cup minced Tomato Confit (9 pieces) (page 64)

1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes

2 tablespoons aU路purpose flour

I 'll tablespoons Vegetable Stock (page 227) or Chicken Stock (page 226)

2 to 3 tablespoons creme fraiche, at room temperature

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons Beurre Monte (poge 1 35)

I large egg yolk

1 111 teaspoons minced Italian parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Kosher salt

1 2 Yukon Gold Potato BUnl (previous recipe)

I

like to use Yukon Gold potatoes for these blini because they absorb

Small piece of bonatga di muggine (see Sources, page 3 1 5)

more cream than other potatoes and thus result in the best possible

texture. This recipe will make extra batter. but it's a difCicult reClpe to reduce. The batter is best when used immediately. but it can be made up

B

ottarga is the salted roe of cod or tuna. I use bot1<1rga di muggine. from cod. bec<luse it has a milder flavor tban the tuna. bottarga di

to two hours ahead if storcd in a warm place (the cream may clot if it gets

tonno. It路s sold by the piece and. kept tightly wrapped in the

too cold). Use a scale to weigh the proper amount of potatoes after

refrigerator. will Jast for months. It路s salty and has a pleasant fishy taste.

pureeing them. and make the batter while the potatoes are still warm or

not unUke anchovies. In Italy. it's grated over p<lsta and is wonderful

the blini wiII not have the correct texture.

that way. It would also work perfectly as a garnish for risotto. or grated over saJad.

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with cold water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat. reduce the hcat. and simmer until

Warm the tomato confil and stock in a small s<lueepan over medium

the potatoes are thoroughly cooked and tender.

heat. Stir in the olive oil and simmer for a few seconds. Reduce the heat

Peel the warm potatoes and press them through a tamis (sec page

73). Immedtately weigh out 9 ounces of pureed potatoes and place them in a medium metal bowl. Working quickly. whisk the flour into the warm potatoes. thcn whisk in 2 tablespoons creme fraiche. Add 1 egg. whisking until the b3tter is smooth. 3dd the second egg. 3nd then add the yolk. Hold the whisk with some of the batter over the bowL The batter should fall in a thick stream but hold its shape when it hits the batter in the bowL If it is too thick. add a little more creme fraiche. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. He3t an electric griddle to 350掳F. Note. ifyou do not have a griddle. heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Spoon between I and 1 112 tC<lspoons of batter onto the griddle or skillet for each p<lncakc. Cook until the bottoms are browned. 1 to 2 minutes. Then flip them to cook the second side. about 1 minute. The blini should be evenly browned with a small ring of white around the cdges. Transfer the blini to a sm31l b<lking sheet and keep warm while you make the remaining blini. wiping the skillet with

<I

p<lper towel between batches. Serve the

blini as soon as possible. MAKES

40

The French Loundry Cookbook

ABOUT

J D O Z [ N SMALL B L I N I

and stir in the beurre montc. parsley. and salt to taste. Place a spoonful of the sauce on each plate. Top each plate with 2 blini and grate bottarga over and around the pancakes. MAKES 6 SERVINGS


B U n l w i t h Roasted Sweet Peppers and Eggplant Cnvinr ---------------

O ďż˝ ďż˝

2 tablespoons minced roasted yellow bell pepper (see page 250)

1 % tablespoons Vegetable Stock (page 227) or

Kosher solt

'I" cup Eggplant Caviar (recipe follows)

Chicken Stock (page 226)

2 tablespoons minced roasted red bell pepper (see poge

---------------

250)

1 tablespoon Beurre Monte (page 1 35)

12 Yukon Gold Potato Blini (page 40)

1 % teaspoons minced chives

About 1 112 teospoons Pepper ConfeHi (page 97)

Combine the minced peppers and stock in a small saucepan and simmer

top. Let the eggplant render its excess liquid at room temperature for 1 to

over medium heat until most of the stock has evaporated, Reduce the

2 hours,

heat and stir in the bcurre monte. chives. and salt to taste. Remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 350oP, Rinse the eggplant. pat dry. and rub with some olive oil. Place the

Place a spoonful of eggplant caviar on each plate. Top with 2

halves flesh side down on a. lightly oiled ba.king sheet. Roast for about an

overlapping potato blini and garnish each serving with a quenelle (sec

hour. or until the eggplant is very soft a.nd the skin is wrinkled: there

page 274). or small oval scoop. of roasted peppers, Sprinkle the plates

should be no resistance when tested with a knife. Remove from the oven

with the pepper confetti.

and let sit until cool enough to handle.

P I C T U R E O ON P A G E

39

MAUS 6

H R V I NGS

Scoop out the eggplant pulp and lightly chop it, Place the pulp in a double layer of cheesecloth and tic it securely into a bundle with

E G G P LA N T

CAVIAR

butcher's twine, leave the ends of the twine about 6 inches long so you can hang the bundle from a refrigerator shelf over a bawl. making sure

1 large eggplant (about I I!" pounds)

it dangles freely. Or simply place the bundle in a colander set over a

Kosher salt

bawl and refrigerate. Let drain for at least 2 hours. or overnight.

'I" cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for roasting

Remove the eggplant from the refrigerator and hold the bundle

'I" teaspoon very finely minced garlic (almost a paste)

over the sink, TWlst and squeeze the cheesecloth to remove as much

112 teaspoon Dijon mustard

additional liquid as possible,

Cut the eggplant lengthwise in half. Score both halves on the flesh side.

processor or mini- chop. Pulse a few times to begin breaking up the

making a crisscross pattern about II. inch deep, Sprinkle bath halves with

eggplant, With the motor mnning. slowly pour2 tablespoons of the olive

Place the pulp (you should have about Ih cup) in a small food

salt and place them scored side down on a baking sheet. Cover with

oil through the feed tube. Continue blending for 30 seconds, The color

another baking sheet and place a heavy object (such as a set of bowls) on

and texture will begin to lighten. Stop the machine and add the garlie, mustard. and salt to taste, Blend again. then add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Continue processing for another minute. then taste and adjust the seasoning, Cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. or for up to 1 week. P I C T U R [ O ON

PAGE

39

Canapes

41


The

I m porta nce

of Hollandaise

My mother, a single parent by the time we moved to South Florida. managed restaurants. After I graduated from high school, I washed dishes at one of them, the Palm Beach Yacht Club in West Palm Beach. When the chef there quit. Mom toJd me [ was the chef. I called up one of my buddies and asked if he wanted a job. First thing we did in the morning was c1ca.n the bathrooms. Then wc'd clean the dining room. then set up for lunch. Dinner too. on weekends. Together we ran the show-we did everything.

think. "Hope SO." And then the hollandaise itself. Again. I had no idea why the cgg yolks and clarified buttcr came togcther. I ncver associated it with mayonnaise-I didn't know how mayonnaise was made. Hollandaise was

My older brother. Joseph. was a cook at an upscale French rcstaurant

just a mysterious thing that had a life of its own. You could screw it up i n

nearby. and when we wcre growing up. Joseph tried to keep good food on

a second. and 1 was terrified cvcry morning that. without reason, it

the table for Mom and my four brothers and. eventually. a stcpdad and half-

would fall apart. Joseph taught m e t o whisk in a little boiling water if i t

sister. But other than Joseph. no one was especially interested in food. As

broke-somctimes that worked. sometimes it didn't: I didn't know why.

rar as .. trade. I tended towJrd carpentry. if toward any onc way at all.

To me. hollandaise sauce was magic. Nothing we did at the yacht

Now suddenly I was a chef. The year was 1 975. and the yacht club'5

club had that kind of mystcry for me or was so critical as this ccnturies-

food was basic: hamburgers, French fries. sandwiches, eggs Benedict.

old French emulsion sauce. I worked at the yacht club for two years and

When I didn't know how to broil lobster tail. I'd call Joseph and he'd tell

I made hollandaise every day. It was not only the high point of each

me how. He told me how to cook a prime rib. I learned how to make

morning. tryIng to get the hollandaise perfect: making hollandaise was

omelets. I learned how to cook meal to the right temperature.

the high point of those two years.

Then he walked me through making a hollandaisc sauce. I"d just

Today. I still get great pleasure from making a hollandaise sauce or

turned twenty. I was so excited by that first hollandaise that I ran out and

any of its derivatives. J love a light bearnaise. hollandaise flavored with

told Captain John. the dock manager. about it. Hollandaise became the

shallots and tarragon: I sometimes serve it at the French Laundry with

great daily challenge.

rabbit. It has a real anchoring quality for me because of its importance

I t started with the clarification of butter. I had no idea of the science of cooking. didn't know why butter clarified. so even this was

42

something apparently ordained by the gods. "Will it clarify today?" I'd

T h e F r e n c h l o u n d r y C o o k book

during my first two years as a cook-every day of those two years. trying to perfect that hollandaise.


FRENCH

LAU N D RY

B EARNAISE

MOUSSELINE

A classical bearnaise should be as thick as

over direct heat in a pan with sloping sides.

in clarified butter in a thin steady stream.

mayonnaise. This recipe is in effect a

but you may feel safer cooking it over a water

When you've acllleved the right consistency

standard bcarnaise with whipped cream

bath. Add egg yolks and half an eggshell of

(about 8 ounces of butter for every 3 yolks).

added at the end to make it light and

water per yolk. Whip the yolks continuously

taste and season with salt and lemon juice.

pourable: Reduce red or white wine vinegar

over the heat: you'll see them tighten up and

then strain through a chinois. Just before

with chopped shallots. chopped fresh

eventually form ribbons. When the eggs are

serving, add chopped fresh tarragon, finely

tarragon. and cracked black pepper until the

thoroughly cooked-the ribbons should be

minced shallots. and freshly ground black

pan is almost dry (the shallots and herbs

thick. the mixture should taste cooked and be

pepper. then stir in whipped cream-about a

should still have plenty of moisture). I do this

hot-remove the pan from the heat and whisk

third as much by volume. C Cl n o p e $

43


44

T h e F r e n c: h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


G a r d e n

Can a p e

S

Our gordcn canapes.

which we serve to guests in the courtyard of the French Laundry. are meant to be simple and elegant bites you can cat standing. with a glass in onc hand: they're especially delicious with Champabrne before dinner.

Conop6s

45


Abo¥. ShrImp wllh Ayoc;odo So'�o, pag.

46

T h e F r e n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook

66. Oppaill•• lell. T,um. dip from ·Chlp, one! DIp,· pOge 48;

rlghl: G'UY�'I! Che-ell! Goug�'el, pogl! "8.


GougCl'CS nrc 0 closstcol pI'cpnrotlon arlen Her,,'cd 01 wine tustlngs In Frnncc. The purrs orc Inudc rrOln n snVOI'Y piite

It

chou x,

01'

Cl'cnnl purr

dough-tlnvorcd hcrc with GI'UyCI'C. They' re best BCI'ved hot out or Iho oven, orfcJ'Jng Ihnt crentnY'dough gl'ntlrtcntlon. Don't ndd the checsc, ond the purr Is 0 hnse rOl' 0 dessel'l.

"Chlp� nod Dip" 01'C, or

COUI'�O.

Ihe

Frcnch Lnunclry cquh'nlent or nn Alnel'lenn rovol'lle. "vhlch we Innke n little n10l'O elognnt hy nddlng- Iruffle to Ihe chlp� nnd to the cl'lmlc r1'oiche dip. The size ond shopc or tho pOlntoc� will dclol'lnlnc ho\" lunny chtJl� cneh will yield. Once you begin olUting the pOlntoc�, worl<: quleldy,

nN

the pOlnloos will oxidize nnd dlscolol'.

Canapes

47


A N D

' C H I P S

D I P '

PotatO C h I ps w I t h Tl'utCle D i p

Gruyere Cheese Gougeres

O r

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ _

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ _

I

TRUFFLE

cup water

7 tablespoons (3'12 ounces) unsalted butter

1 tablespoon kosher solt, or more to taste

C H I PS

I cup Clarified BuHer (poge

1 25). melted

Kosher solt

1 to 2 russet potatoes

Pinch of sugar

24 to 48 thin slices fresh block truffle (1 T R U F F L E D I P M A. k £ S 'lh C U P

1 1/" cups (5 ounces) all-purpose flour 4 to 5 large eggs

to 1 III ounces)

1/3 cup creme fraiche

1 1/" cups grated Gruy�re (5 ounces)

1/2 ounce fresh

Freshly ground white pepper

block truffle. finely minced

2 tablespoons white truffle oil Preheat the oven to 150°F. Line two baking sheets with Silpats (sec

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

Sources. page 31 5) or parchment paper. In a medium saucepan. combine the water. butter. salt. and sugar and bring to a boil. Add all the flour at once. reduce the heat to medium.

Plaee a Silpat (see Sources. page 3 1 S) on a baking

and stir with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes. or until the mixture forms

sheet and generously brush it with clarified butter; sprinkle with

a ball and the excess moisture has evaporated (if the ball forms more

kosher salt.

quickly, continue to cook and stir for a full 2 minutes). Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a mlxer fitted with the paddle and

Peel the potatoes and trim them into long ovals approximately 2 inches long and l lh inches wide. Using a rnandoline. cut the potatoes

beat for about 30 seconds at medium speed to cool slightly. Add -1 eggs and

into paper· thin ovals. As you work. stack the potatoes in the order you

continue to mix until completely combined and the batter has a smooth.

cut them so that you will be able to match them up as closely as possihle.

silky texture. Stop the machine and lift up the beater to check the

Lay the potato slices on the Silpat in pairs. keeping each one's

consistency of the b:llter. The: batter in the mixing bowl should form a

match at its side. Place one or two truffle slices each on half the potato

peak with a tip that falls over. If it is too stiff. beat in the white of the

slices and cover each with its match. Press and smooth each chip to

remaining egg. Check"brain and. if necessary. add the yolk. Finally. mix in

remove any air pockets between the two potato slices.

'I, cup of the Gruyere and adjust the scasoning "lJlh salt and while pepper.

Brush the potatoes generously with clarified butler and place a

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a 'la-inch plain pastry tip with the

second Silpat over them. Top the potatoes with a baking sheet to weight

gougere batter. Pipe the batter into I -tablespoon mounds on the baking

them and keep them flat. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes. reversing the pan

sheets. leaving about 2 inches between the gougeres as the mixture will

halfway through the cooking process. Remove the chips when they arc

spread during baking. Sprinkle the top of each gougere with about 112

golden brown and drain on paper towels. 0 I P; In a bowl sct over a larger bowl of ice. whip the creme

teaspoon of the remaining grated cheese and bake for 7 to 8 minutes. or

FO R T H E

until they puff and hold their shape. Reduce the heal to 350°F. and bake

fratchc until stiff. Reserve I to 2 teaspoons of thc minced truffle to

for an additional 20 to 25 minutes. When the gougeres arc done. they

garnish the dip and stir the remaining truffle into the creme rraiche.

should be a light golden brown color. When you break one open. it

Add the truffle oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

should be hollow. the inside should be cooked but still slightly moist.

48

Preheat the oven to 300°F. FOR T H E C H IPS :

Spoon the dip into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the reserved

Remove the pans from the oven and serve the gougcres while hot.

truffles. Serve the chips on the side.

P I C T UR E D ON PAGE 4 7

P l C T UREO ON PAGE 4 7

The French Lound r y Cookbook

M A K E S A u o u r 4 DOZEN GOUGiRCS

MAK ( S 2 4 T O 3 6 C H I P S


Parmiglano-Reggiano Crisps with Goat Cheese Mousse ----------------

�o �

PARM ESAN

C R I S PS

GOAT

I cup finely grated Pormigiano-Reggiano

C H E ES E

-__ __ __ __ __ -__ __ -__ -__ __ __ __

MOUSS E

6 ounces fresh goat cheese

(from a moist piece of cheese)

(or other soft goat cheese)

4 to 6 tablespoons heavy cream

H

1 tablespoon minced holion persley Kosher salt ond freshly ground block pepper

A clean egg corton

ere. these easy Par esa.n crisps form small cups for a. crcamy goat cheese mousse. It s best to bake only half the crisps at a time.

because thcy may harden while you're workingwith them. Preheat the oven to 325°F. FOR THE

PAR M E S A N

C R ISPS :

Line a bakingsheet with a Silpat (see

Sources. page 3 1 5). or use a nonstick baking sheet. Place a 2lh-inch ring mold (see Sources. page 315) inane comer of the Silpat and flU it with I tablespoon of the grated checse. Usingyour finger. spread the cheese into an even layer. Repeat to make 8 rounds. leaving at least I inch between them. Dake for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until the crisps arc a rich golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool for about 30 seconds to firm the crisps enough so you can rcmove them with a spatula. One by one. remove the crisps and gently press each one into a hollow in the egg carton to form a tulip shape. After

il

few minutes. remove the cooled

crisps from the carton and make 8 more crisps. FOR

THE

GOAT

CHE E S E

MOU S S E :

Place the goat cheese in a food

processor and process (depending on the cheese used. it may look smooth or crumbly). Pour 1/. cup of the cream through the feed tube and continue to process until the mlXturc is smooth but will hold a shape when piped; if necessary. add a little more cream. Add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste and mix just to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The mousse can be refrigerated for 2 to 3 days: let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to soften slightly before piping. Placc the mousse in a pastry bag fitted with a medium star tip. Pipe 2 to 3 teaspoons of mousse into each Parmesan ensp and serve. MAK(S

1 6 CRISPS

Canapes

49


sR S h 1"ill1P w i t h Avoc udo S n l

112 recipe Court Bouillon (recipe follows)

AVOCA D O SALSA

Squeeze of lemon juice, or to taste

6 large shrimp ( 1 6 to 20 per pound) In their shells

3 tablespoons very finely diced red onion

Kosher soh and freshly ground block pepper

3 tablespoons very finely diced cucumber

lie Cup plus 2 tablespoons very finely diced avocado

12 tomato diamonds (see page 203)

1 teaspoon olive oil

B

S O U I LLON

COURT

ecause both the shrimp and sauce are served on the fork. this is an excel lent canape to serve guests who are slanding.

2 quarts water

I Bouquet Garni (page 63)

2 carrots, cut into V2路inch rounds

6 block peppercorns

saucepan. add the shrimp. and simmer for J minute. Remove from the

I lh cups coarsely chopped anions

I cup crisp, dry white wine,

heat. pour the shrimp and bouillon into a containcr. and let the shrimp

2 leeks. split lengthwise. washed. and

FOR T H E SH R I M p

Bring the court bouillon to a simmer in a large

cool in the liquid. Cover and refrigerate for up to a day before serving. I n a bowl. mixthe red onionand cucumbertogether.

FOR TH E SALSA

cut into 'h-inch pieces (about 1 cup)

Carefully fold in the avocado. taking care not to crush it. Season with the oil. lemon juice. and salt and pepper to taste.

only if cooking seafood)

TO C O M P L E T E

1 lemon

I medium fennel bulb, coarsely chopped (about 2 cups; use

such as Souvignon Blonc

Ih cup dry white wine vinegar

Peel the shrimp. removing the shells but kecping the

tail tips intact. Dry the shrimp on paper towels. Cut each shrimp

Court bouillon means "short" bouillon. or quick stock-an acidic liquid

lenbrthwlse in half down the back and use a paring knife to remove the

flavored with vegetables and aromatics in which fish o r shellfish are poached. The liquid is distinguished by fresh herbs and high aCidity. so

vein that runs the length of the shrimp. Spear each shrimp half on the tip of a fork. Placc a spoonful of salsa

it's important to add that acid. whether in the form of wine. lemon juice.

on the fork behind each shrimp. Arrange the forks on a platter and

and/or vinegar. just before )'ou cook the fish. This is enough to cook one

garnish each mound of salsa with a tomato diamond.

Dungeness crab or 12 10 18 shrimp.

P I C T U R E D ON

PAG[

46

MA"ES

I 2 CANAPES

Place the water in a large pot. Add the vegetables. bouquet garOl. and peppercorns. Bring to a boil. reduce to a simmer. and add white \\;ne and wine vinegar. Halve the lemon. squeeze in the juice. and add the halves (acid stabilizes proteins in the seafood. giving it a better texture). TO C O O K S H R I M P simmer for

Bring the liquid to a simmer. add the shrimp. and

I minute. Remove the shrimp to a bowl and pour the liqUId

over them. Let them cool to room temperature. then cover and refrigerate until chilled: o r for up t o a day. TO C O O K D U N G E N E S S C RA B

Bring the liquid to a simmer. drop in

the crab. return the bouillon to a simmer. and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let the crab and liqUid cool to 1'0001 temperature. Transfer the crab and liquid to a container. cover. and refrigerate until ready to use. M A I CE S A B O U T

SO

The French laundry Cookbook

2 QUARTS


C a n a p e !>

51


P't'ct'dlntl �pfl"Od,

It'll

Dunljlt'ncu Clob Solod, poge 92 Abovt' SlIlod

01 Pel,tt' Summer Tomatoes, poge 56, right Vlne·Rlpe Tomalo So.bt'l with Tomoto Torto••, pogt' 57

First Course

5S


S a l a d of Petite S u nl l n e l' TOlllatoes w i t h Vine-Ripe T o m a t o S O I'l>ct

------- o�-----

T O M AT O

C O U L I S MAKES AeoUT

T O M AT O

SORBET

2 1f� pounds tomatoes (6 to 7 medium tomatoes), peeled, seeded, and chopped into

I cUP

I pound tomatoes (about 3 medium tomatoes),

1 tablespoon canolo oil

, 12 teaspoons minced rosemary 1 112 teaspoons minced Italian parsley

peeled, seeded, and chopped into

C H E R RY

1- inch pieces

I - inch pieces

% cup finely grated Pormigiono-Reggiono

T O M AT O E S

4 to 5 dozen (depending on size) assorted small

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1/3 cup finely chopped yellow onion

If� cup extra virgin olive oil

cherry tomatoes, such as Sun Gold, Sweet

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

and Green Grope, at room temperature

GARLIC

Pinch of cayenne

l/� cup plus 2 tablespoons Simple Syrup (page 271) Julienned zest of

Extra virgin alive oil

to taste

Pinch of chopped tarragon

112 orange (removed with

TUlLES

MAKES 2

TO 3 D O Z E N

Six lf2-inch-thick 2.inch-round brioche Croutons (poge 238)

a zester; 1 teospoon), brought to 0 boil in cold water. strained and repeated

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted buHer,

Basil Oil (page 1 66), in a squeeze boUle

softened but still cool to the touch

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

I large egg white

2 teaspoons garlic paste (very finely minced garlic)

to taste

T

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

IIA cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar

l lf2 teaspoons kosher solt

2 additional times

10Ds

he most intriguing clement of this dish is the tomato sorbet. a great

them until very smooth. Press the mixture through a tamis (see page 73)

example of reducing and concentrating the flavor of an ingredient

(there will be about 1 cup of puree) and return it to the blender. Add the

so that it becomes more intense than the orib';nal. Jt's very refreshing.

remaining sorbet ingredients and blend again. Strain through a ehinois

especially paired with a variety of cherry tomatoes (usc as many

(see page 73). There should be about 1 1/z cups of sorbet basc; cool the

different kinds as possible and the best ava.ilable. preferably ones that

mixture in an icc-water bath or in the refrigerator until cold.

arc vine-ripened) set on a brioche crouton and garnished \\'i lh a light.

Freeze the sorbet in an icc-cream machine. Store the sorbet in a covered

crisp garlic tuile. The garlic tuiles arc best the day they arc baked. They

container in the freezer. Tomato sorbet is best eaten the day it is made. but

have an addictive flavor and can bc catcn alone or as a garnish for salads.

it can be storcd for up to 2 days; you will probably have some left over.

This recipe makes quite a lot. but it's difficult to mix less batter. and the

FOR

excess can always be frozen for another time.

ldtchen towel to remove the excess liquid. Place the tomatoes in a

THE

T O MATO

COUltS:

Squeeze the chopped tomatoes in a

blender with the remaimng ingredients and blend well. Strain the caul is F O R T H E T O M ATO

S O R B E T:

Place the tomatoes in a saucepan and

temperature before serving.

minutes. or until the tomatoes have reduced by half; there may still be a

FOR THE GARLIC T U l L E S:

small amount of liquid remaining.

medium bowl. Whisk the butter in another bowl until it is complctely

Meanwhile. heat lhe oil in a skillet over low heat. Add the onions and cook gently for 7 to 8 minutes. or until tender. Place the reduced tomatoes and the onions in a blender and puree

S6

through a ehinois. Store. covered. in the rcfrigerator. Bring to room

bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook. stirring oflen. for about 45

The French

Laundry

C o o k b o o k.

Mix together the flour, sugar. and salt in a

smooth and mayonnaise-like in texture. Using a stifr spatula or spoon. beal the egg white into the dry ingredients until completely incorporated and smooth. Whisk in the


Vine-Ripe "ro m a t o Sorbet with Tornato Tartare a n d B a s H

softened butter by thirds. scraping the sides as necessary and whisking until the batter is creamy and without any lumps. Add the garlic and

T O M AT O TA R T A R E

1

vine-ripe tomoto, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped

Parmesan. mixing until the batter is smooth and shiny. Transfer the

Fleur de sci

batter to a smaller container. as it will be easier to work with. and set aside.

Kosher salt to taste

The batter should be used within a day; any excess batter can be frozen. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Oil

1

teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

114 teaspoon minced shallots

Place a Silpat (see Sources. page 315) on the counter and spoon about 3/, teaspoon of the tuile batter into one comer of the Silpat. Use the back

of a spoon to spread the mixture into a thin 211z-inch round. The batter

'IB teaspoon rcd wine vinegar

'12 teaspoon minced

chives

doesn't have to be completely even-the SUpat can show through in

Balsamic Gloze (poge 238), In a squeeze boH'e

sections: in fact. the baked luiles look more interestingifthcrc are gaps in

Chive Oil (page 1 66)

the wafers. Continue to form additional tuiles. spacing them about I inch

Tamalo Sorbet (page 56), made with Mandarin tomatoes

apart. Sprinkle each tuile with a small amount of rosemary and parsley. Place the Silpat on a baking sheet and bake for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until the tuiles are browned and crisp. Use a small narrow spatula to

or other vine-ripe tomatoes Fleur de sel

6 Gartic Tuiles (page 56)

remove the tuiles from the pan and store them in an airtight container.

boiling lightly salted water for a few seconds. just until the skins have

T

loosened. Peel the tomatoes with a paring knifc. TIlis can be done a few

Girl. Green Zebra. and Mandarin arc just a few that work beautifully. It

Repeat to make more tuiles. or freeze the cx'1ra batter for another time. F O R T H E C H E R R Y T O M AT O E S

Blanch the tomatoes in a large pot of

hours ahead and the tomatoes kept covered at room temperature. TO COMPLETE

If the sorbet is very hard. remove it from the freezer

his tomato sorbet dish is simpler to assemble than the salad of petite or cherry summer tomatoes on page 56. The sorbet can be made in a

variety of flavors and colors by chanbring the type of tomato you use: Early has a very clean flavor. so it also works perfectly as a plated canape or aU by itself as an mtcrmezzo. or palate refresher between courses.

for several minutes to soften slightly. Toss the cherry tomatoes and a splash of olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange a. base layer of cherry tomatoes on each crouton and top with

<1

second

sma.ller layer of tomatoes. (The amount of tomatoes used will vary according to their size.) If the tomatoes are too large to balance. cut a

F O R T H E T O MATO TA R T A R E

Toss the tomato with a spr10kling of

fleur de sci and allow it to drain in a strainer set over a bowl for 1 hour. Discard any liquid. Combine the tomato with the remaimng tartare ingredients and

thin slice from the bottom or one slde of them as necessary to keep them

refngerate for a few hours.

from toppling.

TO C O M P L E T E

Pipe dots of balsamic glaze along one side of each

Squecze a ring of basil oil onto each plate, Fill in the center with a

serving plate. Place a larger dot of chive oil 1 0 the center of each plate.

spoonful of tomato coulis. Carefully center a tomato-topped crouton on

Top each pool of chive oil with a spoonful of tomato tartare, place a

each pool of sauce. Sct a qucnelle (see page 274). or small scoop. of

quenelle (see page 274). or small scoop. of sorbet on the tart3re, and

sorbet on top of the tomatoes. top each with a garlic tutle. and serve

sprinkle With a few grains of neur de scI. Lean a garlic tuHe on each

immediately.

quenelle of sorbet and serve immediately.

P I C T U R E O ON

PAGE 5 5

M ", I( E ďż˝ 6 S E R V I N G S

P l C T U R I O ON P "' G I S 5

"", ,,, 1( ( 5 6 H R V I N G S

F i r S ! Course

57


Big

â&#x20AC;˘

pot

bIa nchi n9

Blanching grecn

vegetables in a big pot with a lot of water and a lot of salt until they arc thoroughly cooked is critical to the finished producl. lt's entirely a color issue. I want green vegetables to be bright. bright green so their color can launch the flavor :md impact of the entire dish. The old saying "We taste first with our eyes" is true. The faster a vegetable is cooked. the greener it becomes. Raw green vegetables appear dull because a layer of gas develops between the skin and pigment. Heat releases this gas, and the pigment floods to the surface. But this happens fast, and pretty soon.

;'IS

the

vegetable cooks. the acids and enzymes in the vegetable arc released. dulling the green color. At the same time. pigment begins to leach out into the water. So the challenge is to fully cook a vegetable before you lose that color. which means cooking it as fast as possible, There are three key factors to achieve this. First. blanch in a large quantity of water relative to the amount of vegetables you're cooking. so you won', significantly lower the boiling temperature when you add the cold vegetables. If you lose the boil. not only do the vegetables cook marc slowly. but the water becomes a perfect cnvironment for the pigment­ dulling enzymes to go to work (Ihese enzymes are dest royed only at the boiling point). Furt hermore. using a lot of water mcans the pib'1l1ent­ dulling acids rcleased by the vegetables will be more diluted. Second, usc a lot of salt-about a cup of salt per gallon of water. The water should taste like the ocean. Salt helps prevent color from leaching into the wat<;r. A side benefit IS that the vegetables will be uniformly seasoned when they are done. THE

F I NAL

CRITICAL

S T E P:

Stop the vegetables from cooking by

plunging them into a large quantity of icc water. Leave them there till thcy are chillcd through. then dram them. You can store them in a dry container for a day until ready to use. The results are dramatic. You may need to be patient if your stove isn't strong and your pot is big, oryou may have to do your vegetables in small batches. But it's not hard-you only have to decide to do it. We don't give times for big- pot blanching i n the reCipes. There is only one certain way to tell if a fava or a bean or pea is done: Put it i n your mouth and cat it.

S8

The F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


First Counc

S9


60

T h e F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookbook


AbO�f! Bouquf!! Go'nl, pogl! 63, .oghl Ar1lCholf!� 80riOO<,oI<:, pogf! 63

F i r s t Course

61


S O l lld

or G lohc

1 2 red pearl onions, peeled and on X cut into the root ends 6 white pe<JrI onions, peeled and an X cut into the root ends

A l' t i c h O li.cS w i t h G n l'dcn

H e 1'l)s a n d

Gn.zpncho

6 Artichokes Borigoule (poge 63),

12 yellow wax beans 24 carrot batons (1 inch by 1/. inch, see page 203)

1/.. cup diced (II.. inch) roosted red and yellow bell

cuI crosswise into V.-inch sikes Gray solt 112 cup Herb Salod (page 97)

peppers (see page 250)

2 cups woler

EJdra virgin olive oil

Exira virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon unsolted butter

Balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar 24 asparagus tips

1/. cup plus 2 tablespoons diced haricots verts

C

Balsamic Glaze (poge 238), in 0 squeeze bottle

v. cup plus 2 tablespoons Eggplant Caviar

112 cup Gazpacho (page 35) (optional)

(poge 4 ! )

ooking doesn't 31ways mean creating something new. Sometimes

wa.x beans in boiling water until tender (see Big-Pot Blanching. page

cooking is comhining separate preparations in new ways. This

58): chill in ice water: dr3in. and pat dry. Blanch the carrots in boiling

great vegetarian dish features artichokes barigoule and g31.p3cho. The

water or strained barigoule liquid (reserved from the artichokes) until

rest is a garnish of vegetables to complete the salad: usc any or all of

tender; chill. drain. and pal dry. Cut the wax beans on the diagonal into

those listed above. I think carrot and onion are important to feature

1ft -inch pieces.

because they are used to navor the artichokes. As .. garnish. they give the

Lightly toss all the vegetables in a bowl with a few drops each of extra

dish strength. logic. wholeness.

virgin oil and balsamic vinegar.

Trim the pearl onions as necessary so that they are uniform in sizt and

Arrange about two thirds of the artichoke hcarts around the spoonfuls of

Place I tablcspoon of the eggplant caviar in the center of each plate. will cook evenly. Place them in two separate small saucepans. Add I cup

caviar. Artfully arrange the remaining vegetables. including the

of water, liz teaspoon of the butter. and % teaspoon of the sugar to each

remaining artichokes. in a stack in the center and sprinkle with gray salt.

pan: the water should just cover the onions. Bring to 3 simmer and cook

Lightly dress the herb salad with olive oil and kosher salt and stack a small

over medium heat for20 to 25 minutes. or until the wattr has evaporated

bunch on each saJad. Squeeze dots of balsamic glaze around each plate.

and the onions are tender and glazed but not browned. Remove from the heat and set aside. One vegetable at a time, blanch the asparagus. haricots verts. and

62

The Fren c h Laundry C o o k b o o k

If desired. spoon a generous tablespoon of gazpacho around each saJad at the table. MAKES 6 H RVI NGS


Artichokes Bartgoule

--------�o�2 cups woter

2 lemons, halved

2 cups dry white wine

1 cup chopped sweet bunch carrots

4 cups Chicken Stock (page 226) or

I cup sliced fennel

Vegetable Stock (page 227)

Jf4 teaspoon kosher salt I Bouquet Gorni (recipe follows)

1 solt·packed anchovy fillet, bones removed,

2 cups chopped onions

soaked in milk to cover for I hour, rinsed,

1 V2 cups olive oil

3 tablespoons minced shallots

6 artichokes

and then soaked and rinsed two more times

l tablespaon plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic

(optionol)

A barigo�e is a kind of stew of artichokes. A lot of restaurants serve it. I-\. but hke tapenade. there,s no standard proportion or classical recipe. We braise the artichoke hearts in olive oil. wine , chicken and/or vegetable stock. with carrots. onions. and garlic. thyme. and parsley. It's

liquid. reserving the liquid. and position the artichoke hearts stem side up over the vegetables. Sprinkle with the salt. cover the pot. and cook for 1 0 minutes. (Cooking the artichokes without liquid to start will help arrest the discoloration that normally occurs when the artichokes cook

a wonderful marriage of navors absorbed by the artichoke.

directly in liquid.)

I n a large container. mLx together the water. wine. stock. and 1 cup ofthe

garni. Place a clean towel over the top of the artichokes to keep them

olive oil.

submerged. Cook at a slowsimmer for 15 minutes. Ifusingthe anchovy.

Pour the reserved liquid over the vegetables and add the bouquet

Hold an aniehoke with the stem end

dry it. chop it. and add it to the artichokes. Cook the artichokes for .10

toward you. Pull orf the very small bottom leaves. Break offthe larger leaves

additional 15 minutes. or until there is no resistance when a heart is

by pushing with your thumb against the bottom of each leaf as you snap it

poked with the tip of a sharp knife. Transfer the artichokes and their

TO P R E PA R E T H E A R T t C H O K E S :

off about 1/2 inch above its base. so you are well above the meaty portion

liquid to a container (the artichokes should be submerged in the liquid)

(which will become part of the heart). pulling it down toward the stem. A

and cool to room temperature. then cover and refrigerate. The

small portion of the bottom of the artichoke leaf should be left anchored to

artichokes can be stored for up to I week.

the base. Continue removing the leaves until the only ones remaining are

P I C T U I H D O N PAGE 6 1

M A K E S 6 4 R T I C H O It (

H E 4 RTS

tender and yellow. Cut off the top two thirds of the artichoke. to where the meaty heart begins. Using a paring knife. cut away the tough dark green

BOUQUET

GARNI

parts of the leavcs to expose the tender heart: This is easily accomplished by first cutting around the artichoke boltom in a strip. Then. holding the

3 outer green leek leaves, woshed

5 sprigs thyme

knife with the tip at a 45-degree angle. trim the base of the artichoke next

5 sprigs I talion parsley

2 boy leaves

to the stem. Peel the stem and cut off the bottom. Remove the fuzzy choke of the artichoke. using a spoon to scrape

A bouquet garni is a classical combmation of aromatic herbs and

the heart clean. Squeeze some lemon juice over the artichoke and

vegetables used to navor liquids: because the herbs and vegetables are

submerge it in the stock mixture. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.

bundled with string. they can be removed easily from the liquid once

Heat the remaining '/2 cup olive oil in a pot large enough to hold the

they've given their navor to it.

hearts in one layer. Add the carrots and cook over medium heat for 2 to

Lay out 1 leek green. Place the herbs on top and wrap in the

21f2 minutes. Add the fennel and continue cooking for another 2 to 2'/2

remaining leaves to form a circular bundle. Tic the bouquet garni

minutes. Add the onions. shallots. and garlic and cook for 4 minutes. or

securely with string.

until the vegetables have softened. Remove the artichokes from the

P l C T U R f D O N PA G E 6 1

Flnl Course

63


Tarta re. a n d C h i v e O i l S a l a d ot Haric ots Ve r t s . TOITla to __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ ---

6 ounces haricots verts, ends trimmed ond cut into

RED WINE

0__

--------

---------

CREAM

VINEGAR

l.inch lengths

Chive Oil (page 166), in a squeeze boHle

1 112 cups frisee (tender leaves only)

1/J cup hea"Y cream

Extra virgin olive oil

T O M AT O T A R TA R E

I teaspoon red wine vinegor

'12 cup finely chopped Tomoto Confit

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Kosher salt

Freshly ground block pepper

Tomato Powder (page 233)

(about 24 pieces) (recipe follows)

1 '12 teaspoons finely mInced shallot I teaspoon minced chives

Ih teaspoon balsamic vinegar TOMATO

Blanch the haricots verts in boiling salted water until they arc just

C O N F I T

cooked through (see Big-Pot Blanching. page 58). 2 to 4 minutes. depending on the age and size of the beans. Chill the beans in ice water,

Tomatoes

drain. and dry on paper towels.

Extra virgin olive oil

FOR

THE

T O M AT O TARTARE :

Combine the tomato conCit. shallot.

chives. and balsamic vinegar in a small bowl. Refrigerate until shortly

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper Thyme sprigs

before serving. \Vhisk the cream in a bowl set

TIlis is one of our staple preparations-tomato "petals" slow-cooked in

over a larger howl of ice just until it thickens slightly and you can see the

the oven with olive oil. thyme. and salt. \Ve make tomato confit every day

F O R T H E R E D W I N E V I N EGAR CREAM:

trail of the whisk in the howl. Using the whisk. fold in the red wine

and use it as a garnish in many dishes. The roasting of the tomatoes. not

vinegar and season with the salt and pepper to taste. Do not overheat the

unlike the reduction of a stock. intensifies the flavors.

cream. as it will continue to thicken when it is tossed with the heans. Place a 3-inch ring mold (see Sources. page 3 1 5) on

Cut out the cores from the tomJ,toes and cut a shallow X in the bottom of

a serving plate. Squeeze a ring of clllve oil around the inside of the

each tomato. Drop the tomatoes into a pot ofhoiling sa1ted waterfor a few

TO C O M P L E T E :

mold. Place about 4 teaspoons of the tomato tartare in the center and

seconds to loosen the skin. This will happen very quickly with ripe

use the back or a small spoon to spread the mixture so it rills the

tomatoes. Immediately remove the tomatoes to an icc-water bath to cool.

bottom of the mold. Gently lift orf the ring mold and repeat with the remaining five plates.

Peel the tomatoes and cut them into quarters through the stem. Cut away the inner pulp. seeds. and any remaining ribs to leave a smooth

Toss the heans with just enough of the cream mixture to coat them. Stack about 1/4 cup of the beans in the center of each tomato disk. leaving about a '/4 -inch border of tomato.

"tomato petal." Discard the seeds and save the trimmings to use in other recipes or for tomato powder. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

Toss the frisee with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of salt.

Drizzle the foil with olive oil and lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay the tomato petals (inside of the tomato faCing down) on the foil.

For each plate. take about 1/4 cup of the greens. twist it in the palm of your hand to make a compact hundle. and set the bundle on the stack of haricots verts. Sprinkle the top of each with a pinch of tomato powder. MAKÂŁS 6 SERVINGS

Drizzle more oil over thc tops of the tomatoes and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top each piece of tomato with a small sprig of thyme. Place in the oven for } 1h to 2 hours. until the tomatoes have panially dried but still have some of their juices. Discard the thyme and refrigerate the confit in a covered container. with the oil. until ready to use, or for up to } week.

64

Tke Frenck loundrv Cookbook


"" hen bonns nre trcsh (tnll wonllcl't u lly crisp on thc outs ide nnd (enl ler on tho Insi de, you enn tl'uly clcvntc lhem , FOI' the Snln d at HOI' lcot s Vcr ts. I'vc Il'cntcd the benn s ns nspnrngus Is otten trented in elossleo l French cuis ine. tiCl'vlng ( holl) with n red wino vlnn lgrc ttc. I I'oplncc the aU in the vlnnfgrc ue w i t h CI'CO ln. n d d l n g 0 rIchness thot Isn't usun lly l\S80 clntcd with vinn lgrc ttcs. 01' with bonns. tal' thut I"llutt cr.

leI! RooulnO tornoloe, fot H�hloom Tomolo Tort. PGge

First Course

66

65


HelJ'looln Tonu\ lo Tnrt w i t h N j � oi sc O l i ve Tnpcnndc. M i xed Field Greens, H n d B n s i l Vi n a J g r e t t e

BASIL V I N A I G R ETTE

1 12 c u "

TOMATOE S

TA P E N

'I"

6 to 8 salt·pocked anchovy fillets (I ounce),

cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

5 medium heirloom tomatoes (about 4 ounces each), peeled Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

E

MA"O A B OU T

V2 cup pocked bosil leoves

bones removed, soaked in milk to cover

V2 cup extro virgin olive oil

for I hou , rinsed, and then soaked

3 toblespoons bolsamic vinegar

and rinsed two mare times

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

r

V2 cup (4 ounces) ni<;oise olives, pitted

2 teaspoons thyme leaves

T

AO

V" teaspoon Oijon mustard

1J2 recipe Puff Pastry (poge 297)

V" cup extra virgin olive oil

2 cups mixed baby lettuce leaves

his is my Interpretation of pizza. I love tomatoes. I love pizza. But pizza dough isn't elegant enough for a French Laundry dish. Puff

FOR

THE

BAS I L

VI N AIGRETTE '

Blanch the basil lcaves i n boiling

salted watc r for 1 minute. Drain the leavcs and cool them under cold

My pizzas arc baked with tomatoes that have been partially

running water: drain well and dry on paper towels. Puree the basil in a

dried. which prevents the dough from becoming soggy, then finished

food proccssor. WIth the machille running. slowly add the ollye oil

pastry

IS.

with the surprise of chilled tomatoes. topped by tapenade and a basil

through the feed tube, blending unlil smooth. This can bc done up to 2

vinaigrette.

days ahead: storc 10 the refrigeralor. and bring to room tempcrature before using.

F O R T H E TO MATO E S

Preheat the ovcn to 250°F.

Line a baking sheet with foil and coat with I tablespoon of the olive oil. Cut 2 of the tomatoes into Ill -inch slices (3 per tomato). Place the

PUFF

P A S T R Y,

On a lightly noured surface. roll the pastry

% inch thick. Placc the sheet on a

tray and place in the freezer (frozcn puff pastry is easier to cut)

slices on the baking sheet and sprinkle with sail and pepper. the thyme

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

lea\'es. and 2 morc tablespoons of the oil. Roast the tomato slices for 45

WIlen the pastry IS frozen. cut out 3 - inch rounds of pastry and place

minutes to 1 hour. The slices should have dried out slightly but should

them on the baking sheet. Prick each pastry round scveral times with a

stdl be moist. ll1cse can be prepared a day ahead and stored. covercd. 1O

fork. then top each round with a slice of roasted tomato. Bake for 25 to 35

the refrigcrator.

minutes or unltl the tops and bottoms of the p,lstries arc crisp and they

Slice the remaining 3 tomatoes into !AI -inch slices (6 per tomato)

are well browned on the bottom. These can be baked up to 2 hours ahead. If you baked the tarts ahead, reheat them 111 a hot oven

and place them on a baking sheet lined with a kitchen towel . Scason

TO C O M P L E T E

with salt and peppcr and dflule with the remaining 3 tablespoons olive

for S to ]0 minutes. Add the balsamiC vmegar to the dressing and season

oil. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of I hour and up to 5 hours. FOR

THE

TA P E N A D E :

Drain the anchovies. pat them dry. and place

with salt and pcpper. Toss the baby lettuces with just enough of the \'in,lIgrelte to lightly coat the greens.

them in a small food processor with the olives and mustard. Turn the

Center a pastry round on each plate. Arrange 3 overlapping slices of

machine on and slowly add the olive oil through the fecd tube to make a

chilled tomato on top of each roasted tomato and spoon I/� teaspoon of

puree. stopping the machine and scrapmg the Sides as necessary.

olive tapcnade onto the slices. Top each tart with a portion of the dressed

Remove the tapenade to a covered con t ainer and refrigcratc until rcady

greens and drizzle each plate with a small amount of the remaining

to servc. You will have marc than you need for this recipe. but the extra

vinaigrette.

can bc refrigeratcd for up to 3 wceks.

66

FOR THE

into an 8- by 1 2- inch rectangle about

The F r e n c h l o u n d r v C o o k b o o k

MA"( S

6 S( li V I N G S


S n l ncl of B l nel, r"l i s s i o n F i gs w i t h H o u H l e d Sweet

p(' PPCl'S a n d Shaved F e n n e l

c 1 yellow bell pepper, roosted (see page 250),

F I G S

6 large or 9 medium figs,

Extra 'Iirgin oli'lc oil

peeled, and cut into Ij�.inch julienne

preferably Block Mission

Bolsamic 'linegar Kosher soil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

Extra virgin oli'le oil

Extra 'Iirgin oli'le oil

Bolsomic 'linegor

Balsamic ...incgor

v� cup Fennel Oil (page 166)

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots

Kosher salt

I tablespoon Balsamic Gloze (page 238)

Gray salt

F E N N E L

ROASTED

1 til teaspoons fresh fennel buds, blanched in

SALAD

1 small fennel bulb,

P E P P E R S

1 red bell pepper, roosted (see page 250),

boiling soiled woler for 1 0 seconds and dried on poper towels (optional)

top trimmed down to the bulb

peeled, and cut into Ij�.inch jul1ienne

I

Fennel Powder (page 233)

l ove the licorice flavor in plants such 3S fennel and tarragon.

For this

FOR THE F E N N E L SALAD

Holding the stem end of the fennel bulb 1 0

salad. we make a fennel oil from the fronds. and we garnish il With the

your hand. cut it on a mandollne into paper-thin slices. You \\il1 need at

wild fennel buds. In summer. I'll fllld a fennel patch alongside the road.

least 1/2 cup. Place the shaved fennel in a bowl of cold water. It can be

where the buds arc stdl green and haven'l blossomed. and I'll cut all the

held for a few hours this way.

topS off. We'll

pick out the buds and blanch them. They're explosl\'e.

ThiS salad IS

really about the Napa Valley. where we have the same

problem of overabundance of ftgs as most people

do with to mat oes.

TO

C O M P L ET E

Stir the fennel oil

and balsamic glaze together. They

will not emulSify. and the balsamiC glaze should bead in the oil. Drain the shaved fennel and dry on a towel. Toss the fennel with olive oil. balsamiC vmegnr, and salt to taste.

FOR THE

F I GS

Slice the figs into rounds about

'h lOch thick. You will

Center a

round of fig on each servmg plate. TWirl a few stripS of the

need a tolal of 1 8 slices. Place them on a plate. drizzle lightly With olive

julienned peppers around a fork. place the pcppers on a fig slice. and top

oil and balsamic vinegar. and sprinkle With the shallots and gray salt. Let

wuh another slice of fig. Repeat the process so that there are three slices

them marinate for I hour at room temperature. MEAN WHILE

FOR

shallots and oli..·c for

I

hour.

THE

011.

PEPPERS

Toss the roastcd peppers wlth thc

balsamiC vinegar. and salt to tastc. Let marinate

of figs and two layers of peppers. then repeat with the remalOing plates. Stack the fennel salad o n top of

the fig slices and sprinkle with the

fennel buds. if USing, Drizzle the fennel Oil/balsamic glaze mL"(ture

arollnd the plates and sprinkle the plates With the fcnnel powder.

F , , � t C O I,l ' \ C

67


II E A It "I' S

0 F

P A L M

G It 0 \\' E It :

M O O D

As I spoke with the restaurant's purveyors, the

blossomed into on intense love of tropical

elongated peach. It can be boiled and eaten

main thing that struck me was how many

plants. He served in Vietnam as a pilot, and

like a sweet potato, fermented into beer, or

people had backed into their work-almost all

after the war, he continued to fly for the army.

turned into vinegar, and it has long been a

of them hod double lives. Charlie Akwa, a little

Then he Quit the army, got a job as a

staple of Peruvian Indians. But its most

dynamo of a woman who specializes in coviar

commercial pilot, and bought enough land in

valuable asset is its core, the soft white shoots

and Mediterranean fish, fIrst mode a killing on

Hawaii-about thirty-five acres-to turn his

of underdeveloped leaves known as hearts of

Wall Street. Kathleen Weber, who bakes the

hobby into a business. His wife, Pot, become

palm. "Vegetable ivory," Mood calls it.

French laundry's bread, was a nurse and then

his manager.

worked in women's retail before she and her

Shortly thereafter, he met on American

Moad was happy to lend five acres to the American, and the crop flourished. John's wife

husband, Ed, built a brick oven in their

living in Brazil who hoped to plant on

got the word out that they were now growing

backyard.

experimental crop that grew abundantly in

and selling a crop Ihot had rarely been available

South AmeriCa, a variety of palm tree called

before in America-fresh hearts of palm.

John Mood has lived a double life since

68

J 0 H N

he was a teenager and become infatuated

the peach palm, or pejibaye. It has a hard

with a neighbor's banana tree. The infatuation

fruit, high in storch and oil, that looks like on

The Fren c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

Sales began slowly, at 30 pounds a week to local restaurants. But word of mouth spread


the news in the chef world fast. Within two yeors, the Moods were producing and selling 1 50 to 1 70 pounds a week from ten thousand trees. A friend also started growing the peoch palm, and he now sells to John and Pot when orders come foster than they con handle. The peach palm is proving t a be 0 finoncially viable business. But money's not the issue, according to John, who simply likes to study frUits (not to mention a whole subsection of his hobby, the study, exploration, and growing of tropical gingers) and to search for new genuscs. He's Quick to tell you that hc's got a decent job flying planes. -M.R.

F i r H C O l) n e

69


H e a r t s or Polin w i t h Puree or Mnl'ro'W Beans und

F' i e l d G r e e n s

--------�Or-

MARROW BEANS

V2 cup (4 ounces) dried morrow beans or Great

I

cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs;

Northern or other large white beans,

Conolo oil

soaked overnight at room temperature

MARROW

in 3 cups water 4 to 5 cups cold Vegetoble Stock (page 227)

Two 2.inch pieces carrot Two 2·inch pieces leek One 2·inch·long onion wedge

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots I tablespoon finely minced block truffle

see Sources, page 3 1 5)

VA cup cooked morrow beans (from above) BEAN

FILLING

¥.. cup diced hearts of palm (from above)

¥.. cup cooked morrow beans (from above)

VA cup tomato diamonds (see page 203)

3 slices (2 to 3 ounces) Brioche (page 258),

V3 cup Brunoise (page 155)

1 tablespoon minced chives

crusts trimmed

tablespoon minced Itolion parsley

I cup (8 ounces) mascarpone

I

Kosher solt and freshly ground white pepper

VA cup white truffle oil

1/2 small tomato

3 tablespoons white truffle oil

1 Bouquet Garni (page 63)

SAUCE

Chive oil (page 1 66), in a squeeze bo«le

H EARTS

OF PALM

1 1h cups Truffle-Infused Mushroom Stock

6 sprigs chervil

5 pounds fresh hearts of palm stems

(page 87) or J/A cup truffle juice

(see Sources, page 315) I cup oll·purpose flour I cup milk

(see Sources, poge 315) plus Jt. cup Mushroom Stock (page 227)

1f:z teaspoon sherry vinegar

I

'm always searching for new foods-it's a constant quest for me. When I saw fresh hearts of palm on a trip to Hawaii. I was bowled over. Their

nutty. almost artichoke flavor works beautifully with French cuisine. They're delicious raw, but poaching them until they're soft, with just a little bit of crunch, enhances their flavor. F O R T H E MARROW B E A N S :

Remove and discard any skins from the

soaking beans that have risen to the top of the water. Drain and rinse the beans. Place the beans in a pot. add cold water to cover by at least 2 inches. and bring to a simmer. It is imponant that the beans do not comc to a hard boil. or they will crack. More skins will float to the surface: remove them and discard. Remove the beans rrom the heat and drain. Rinse the beans under cold water until the water runs clcar. Place the beans in a clean medium saucepan and add enough cold vegetable stock to cover them by at least 2 inches. Add the vegctables and the bouquet garni. Bringthe stock to a simmer and gcntly cook the beans until they arc completely tender. 45 minutes to I hour. The beans can be cooked a day ahead and refrigerated in their liquid. along with the aromatic vegetables and bouquet garni. F O R T H E H E A R T S OF PALM :

Put the hearts in a large pot and cover

with heavily salted water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes,

70

T h e French L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


Drain, reserving the cooking liquid, and place the hearts of palm in an

process it until it is a silky-smooth puree. There will be about 1 112 cups

icc-water bath to cool; drain again. TIle hearts can be cooked ahead and

of puree. It can be covered and stored in the refrigerator for I to 2 days.

refrigerated in the cooled cooking liquid for up to 2 days. Cut the hearts of palm into sections about IIf2 inches long. Punch out the center of each to leave a wall about 1/.. inch thick (to resemble a beef marrow bone). You need a total of 1 2 pieces. Cut the "punched-out" hearts of palm into lit-inch dice. If there arc not enough to make '/4 cup,

TO F i l l T H E H E ARTS OF PA L M : Stand the hearts of palm on a level

work surface. Using a pastry bag with a plain medium tip. pipe the filling from the boltom of the cavities to the top. evenly distributing the puree so that there are no air pockets along the inside edges. Fill each piece to the top and use the back of a small knife to remove the excess filling

use other scraps or trimmings.

from the ends. Refrigerate the filled hearts of palm for at least 3 hours to

F O R T H E M A R R O W B E AN F I L L I N G : Drain the cooked marrow beans.

allow the puree to chill completely.

reserving Ihe liquid. and discard the vegetables and bouquet garni.

TO C O M P L E T E : For the sauce. place the stock or trurne juice and stock

There wi.ll be about Ph cups of beans: set aside 3/, cup for the sauce.

in a saucepan. add the vinegar. bring to a boil. and reduce by half. Add

Reheat the remaining marrow beans in their liquid in a saucepan until

the shallots. black truffle. and the reserved cooked marrow beans and

hot. Meanwhile. in a food processor. grind the brioche in three to four

diced hearts of palm and heat through. Keep warm.

batches to create vel)'. very fine bread crumbs. [t is Important to do this

TO C O O K T H E H E ARTS OF PALM ; Place the flour. milk. and panko

in batches to ensure even processing: if there arc any large pieces of

crumbs in three separate shallow bowls. Generously coat each piece of

brioche. your filling Will not be smooth. Thcn return all the crumbs to

heart of palm with flour. tapping lightly to remove the excess flour. Dip

the processor and process one last time to combine. Transfer the bread

in the milk. then evenly coat the hearts of palm with the panko crumbs.

crumbs to a bowl.

tapping to remove any excess crumbs.

Drain the reheated marrow beans and discard the liqUid. Place the

Meanwhile. In a large skillet. heat about If. inch of oil over medlUm­

hot marrow beans in the food processor and process. stopping often to

high heat. The 011 should not be hot enough to burn the panko crumbs:

scrape the sides of the bowl. until perfectly smooth: this could take up to

It is ready when a few crumbs placed into the oil turn golden brown

5 minutes. (If there is not adequate room In your processor to keep the

almost immediately: if they turn black. the oil is too hot. Stand the

beans below the top of the blade. process them in batches until

hearts of palm on end in the hot 011 and brown for about 5 seconds. or until the ends are golden brown: turn each piece and brown the other

completely smooth.) Once the beans arc perfectly smooth (if you'vc processed them in

end. Lay the pieces on thcir sides and roll them in the pan for about 10

batches. return all the beans to the processor and process to blend). add

seconds. not long enough to brown the crumbs. but long enough to

:\ handful of

Ihe bread crumbs to the processor. As the bread crumbs are

remove the raw taste. Remove the pieces to paper towels to drain.

rough dough-like consistency and

Add the tomato diamonds. brunoise. chIVes. parsley. and truffle oil

begm to pull away from the sides of the processor. At the proper

to the sauce and gently heat through (the sauce will look thicker from all

consistency. the mixture will stick togethcr when pinched but won't be

the garnishes but should still have some "movementďż˝ to it).

added. the mixture Will take on

it

too wet: you may not need to use all of the bread crumbs.

Place a 4-mch ring mold (see Sources. page 3 1 5) on a plate and

Add the mascarpone 10 Ihc mixture in thirds and process to

squeeze a ring of chive oil around its anterior. Spoon a layer of the sauce

combine. As you add the mascarpone. the mix1ure will loosen to a

into the ring mold. Be careful: If you add too much of the liquid. it may

smooth. thick puree. Blend in salt and white pepper to taste.

break through the ring of ehive oil. Lift off the ring and repeat with the

With the machine running. slowly pour m the truffle oil to create an

remaining plates. Stand two hearts of palm SIde by Side m the center of

emulsion (as ifyou were makmg mayonnaise). It is cxtremely imponant

the sauce on each plate and garnish the top With a spng of chervil. Serve

to add the oil slowly. or Ihe emulSion may break. If the mixture begins to

immediately.

look grainy or broken once all the oil has been added. continue to

"" .-- " I S

6

S E It V I N G S

FirSI Cou rse

71


Perhaps the most important pieces of equipment in our kitchen are the chinois-also known in French kitchens as a chtnOis tamlS. or Chinesc sle\'e-and the tamIS. sometimes referred to as a dnlln sie\'e. The first is a comcal fine-mesh sieve that we pass liquids through: the second is a nat fine· mesh sieve that we press pureed solids through. A lamis prevents lumps and ensures that every particle IS the same size. We put a lot of butter (and truffle oil) in mashed potatoes. crcatmgwhat is in dfect an emulsion: potatoes thai h;wc been pressed through a tamis will more easily form a stable emulsion. We also press items such as foie gras or anythmgwith veins or skin we don't want through the tamis to rcmove impuritics.

To o l s o f r e f i n e m e n t :

the c h inois and tamis

The final clarifying stage of a sauce IS passing It through a chinois. French L1undry chefs will pass :1 sauce through a chinols twenty times or more. till It is perfectly clean and all the particles that can muddy it have been caught m its mesh. We're always "c1eanin�( sauces witha ehinois-no liqUid should move from one pOI or containcr into anolher cxccpt through a chinois. We usc a China cap. a coarser conical sieve, to strain bones and \'egelables out of siock. For lobster stock. we crush the lobster shells in the China cap 10 extract as much liquid 35 possible. then we strain that laqUld through a chinois to remove any rcmallllllg impurities. Above all. the 1�lInis and the chinois arc tools that create perfect texture. We put our soups In a blender and then pass them through a chinOls. tapping the rim rather than plunging With a ladle to move the liquid through. We pass our pea puree for the pca soup through a lamis. Ihen we blend the puree in a blender and pass it through a ehmois. The result IS texture on your tongue and palatc thtlt is almost Indcscrlbable. It is the texture of luxul)'.

Fir" COUf"�

73


Ag n o l ot t i I learned to make agnolotti from the grandmother of 3 family I stayed with i n the Piedmont region of holly. and they're close to my heart. They're the Piedmont version of ravioli: whoever figured them out rcally had it over whoever invented ravioli. They're the perfect sturred pasla. a brilliant design-a kind of sclf¡scaling. self-defining pack41ge. They almost sturr themselves. sealing automatically when cut, and there's never any problem with air pockets. It results in the perfect ratio of pasla to stuffing. there's almost no wasted dough. and the size is consistent. I love their little pillow shape and the folds of the pasta that catch the sauce. Also. you can make a lot of them rC311y fast. You just roll out a sheet of pasta. pipe out the filling. fold the dough over that cylinder. pinch the tube at one� inch intervals. then cut.

-6}

I love touching 3gnolo(li dough. which is packed with egg yolks. You can incorporate thirty yolkB into a kilo of nour. I roll thc dough ten or fifteen times through the widest scuingofthe pasta machine so it develops 3 silkiness. a shine. Thc filling can he almost anything as long as you're able to separate it into individual portions by pinching the dough: It can't be whole shrimp, but it can be a shrimp mousse. Stuffed agnoloUi freeze beautifully, so you could make a whole pound of nour into dough. You prepare a filling-whatever you want-pipe it onto your pasta. and you have enough agnolotti for a month of Sundays. That's the benutiful thing nbout it, All you need to do is hoi I them up. sauce with beurre monte. mushrooms, or maybe tomato, grate some Parmesan on lOp. and you're done. Following iUC fillings for each season, but once you master the agnolotti shape, you can do just about anything with it.

74

T h o French Laundry Cookbook


76

Tho Fronch Laundry Cookbook


First Couru

77


PaSLO Dough

1 3/� cups (8 ounces) oll·purpose flour 6 large egg yolks 1 large egg 1 112 teaspoons olive all I tablespoon milk

Mound the flour on a board or other surface and create a well in the

rest for a few minutes while you clean the work surface.

center. pushing the nour to all sides to make a ring with sides about

Dust the clean work surface with a little flour. Knead the dough by

J inch wide. Make sure that the well is wide cnough to hold all the eggs

pushing against il in a forward motion with the hccls of your hands.

without spilling.

Form thc dough into :1 ball again and kncad it again. Kcep l..-neading in

Pour the eggyolks. egg. oil. and milk into the well. Usc your fingers

this forward motion until the dough becomes sm",),-smoot.h. The dough

to break the eggs up. Still usingyour fingers. begin turning the eggs in a

is ready whcn you can pull your finger through it and the dough wants to

circular motion. keeping them within the well and not allowing them to

snap back into place. The kneading process can take anywhere from 1 0

spill over the sides. This circular motion allows the eggs to gradually pull

t o 1 5 minutes. Even i f you think you are finished kneading. knead it for

in flour from the sides of the well: it is important that the flour not be

an extra 10 minutes:you cannot ovcrknead this dough. It is important 10

incorporated too rapidly. or your dough will be lumpy. Keep moving the

work the dough long enough to pass the pull test: othenvise. when it

eggs while slowly incorporating the nour. Using a pastry scraper.

rests. it will collapse.

occasionally push the nour toward the egb"8: the flour should be moved

Double-wrap the dough in plastic wTap to ensure that it docs not dry

only enough to maintain the gr"dual incorporation of the nour. and the

out. Let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes and up to I hour before

eggs should continue to be contained within the well. The mixture will

rollmg it through a p3sta machine. The dough can be made a day ahead.

thicken and cvcnlunlly get too tight 10 keep lurningwilh your fingers.

wTapped. and refrigerated: bring to room temperature before proceeding.

When the dough begins thickening and stnrts lifting itself from the

M A IC H A II O U T

14

OUNeo OOUGH

board. bCbrin incorporating Ihe remaining nour with the pastry scraper TO F O R M PASTA S H E E T S

cutting it into the dough. When the remaining nour from the sides of the

pasta machine at the widest selting. Take one third of the finished pasta

well has been cut into the dough. the dough will still look shaggy. Bring

dough. about 5 ounces. and cut it in half (reserve the remaining dough

the dough together with the palms of your hands and form it into a ball.

for another usc). Keep one half wrapped in plastic warp and run the

It will look flal)' but will hold together.

78

12

by lifting the flour up and over the dough that's beginning to form and

FOR

RAVIOLI ·

Set the rollers o f the

other piece through the machine. Fold the dough in half. end to end.

Kncad the dough by pressing it. bit by bit. in a forward motion with

turn it a quarter turn. and run it through the same setting again. Repeat

the heels ofyour hands rather than folding it over on itself:1s you would

this procedure two more times. but the last time. fold the pasta sheet

with a bread dough. Re-form the dough into a ball and repeat the process

lengthwise in half to give you a narrower piece of pasta and run it

scveral times. The dough should feci moist but not sticl,),. lei the dough

through the machine.

The French loundry Cookbook


Set the openings of the rollers down one notch and nm the pasta

in a past I)' bag fitted with a Ih-inch plain tip. Pipe a Htube" of filling

through. Do not fold it over. Decrease the opening another notch and run

across the bottom of the pasta shect. leaving a 3/4 -inch border of pasta

the dough through again. Continue the process until the sheet of pasta is

along the left. right. and bottom cdges.

quite thin (there may be a recommended setting for your machine : if not.

Pull the bottom cdge of the pasta up and over the filling. Seal the

the nex1 -to-the-thmnest setting is usually best). Repeat with the second

agnolotti by carefully molding the pasta over the filling and pressing

piece of pasta and proceed with the specific ravioli recipe.

lightly with your indcx finger to seal the edge of the dough to the pasta

Roll out sheets of pasta (using the desired amount of

sheet: don't drag your flllger along the dough to seal. or you risk ripping

dough) following the instructions for agnolotti. Run the shccts of pasta

the dough. When it is scaled. there should be about If: inch of excess

through the fine cutting blade. If thc sheets of pasta stick to the

dough visiblc abovc the tube of filhng (where you sealed it). Be certain

FOR CAPELLI N I

machine. dust them lightly with flour. The pasta can be used

that you are sealing tightly while pressing out any pockets of air. Seal the

immediately. or it can be dried. Lift a small handful of the noodles and

left and right ends of the dough.

drape them in a nest shape onto a tray dusted with cornmeal. Repeat

TO

with the remaining pasta. forming many small nests. Allow the pasta to

forefinger of each hand together as ifyou were going to pinch something

SHAPE

AGN OlOTTI

Startlllg at one end. place the thumb and

dry completely in a cool. dry arca. If it is damp in the kitchen. line the

and. leaving about I inch of space between your hands and holding your

tray with a towel before arranging the pasta on it. and leave the pasta on

fingers vertically. pinch the filling in I - Inch increments. making about

the towel until it has dned completely. to prc\'em the formation of mold.

'/4 inch of "pinched" area between each pockct of filling. It is important

The dried pasta can be kept for several weeks.

to leave this much Hpinched" area between thc agnolotti. or when the

TO

FORM

S H E E TS

FOR

A G N O lO T T I

Use 112 recipe pasta dough.

agnolotti are separated. they may come unsealed.

divided into two or three pieccs. Run the dough through a pasta machine

Run a crimped pastry wheel along the top edge of the folded-o\'er

as for ravioli. but make the sheets wider. Thc size will vary according to

dough. separating the strip of fillcd pockets from the remainder of the

the pasta machine used. but the shects should be at least 5 inches wide.

pasta sheet. Don't cut too close to the filling. or you risk breaking Ihe

It is important that our pasta sheet be thin enough so that you can sce

seal. Separate the individual agnolotti by cutting through the center of

your fingers through

11. but not so thin th::tt it's translucent. Keep the

each pinched area. rolling the pastry wheel away from you. Working

pasta sheets covered. as they dry out quickly. and proceed with filling

qUIckly. place the agnolotti on a baking sheet dusted with a thin layer of

the agnolott i.

cornmeal . which will help prevent sticking. Don't let the agnolotti touch

TO

FILL

A G N OlOTTI

If you are planning on using the agnolottl

cach other. or they may Slick together.

immediately. have a large pot of lightly salted boiling water ready. Work

Repeat the same procedure on the remainder of your pasta shcets.

with one sheet of pasta at a lime. keeping the remaining sheets covercd.

Either cook the agnololli immediately in the boiling water. or place the

Work quickly. as fresh pasta will dry out.

baking sheet in the freezer. Once the agnolotti arc frozen. place them in

Lay the pasta sheet on a lightly floured work surface with a longside facing you. Trim the edges so they are straight. Place the a1,>11010tti filling

airtight freezer bags and keep them frolen forup to several weeks. Cook the agnolotti while still frozen.

FlrS1 CourU!

79


Fuvn Beun A g n o l o t t l

F AVA

BEAN

CURRY

FILLING

w i t h CU tTY

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

EMULSION

Eighteen I -inch.long pieces romps

2 to 3 pounds fova beans

2 teaspoons curry powder

3/.. cup fresh breed crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped sea11ions

'I.. cup plus I lh teaspoons masearpone

31.. cup plus 2 tablespoons Vegetable Stock

Kosher soIl

(page

EJll u l s i o n

or scallions, blanched (see Big·Pot BlanchIng.

227), Chicken Slock (page 226),

page 58), chilled in ice water, drained, and dried

ar water Ih recipe POSfO Dough (page

Eighteen I-inch pieces garlic sprouts or garlic

IJ.. cup heavy cream

78)

IJ.. cup creme froiche

chives blanched (see Big-Pot Blanching.

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted buller,

page 58), chilled in Ice water, drained, and dried

cut into chunks

F

ava bean8 have a high stareh contenl that results in a densc puree. perfcet for filling agnalotti. Fava8 arc so delicately navored. I serve

Roll out the dough and fill the agnololli according to the instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approximately 48 agnolotti. For the curry emulsion. toast the curry powder in a

rhem with curry-just a light backdrop to Zlccentuate their navor-in an

TO C O M P L E T E :

emulsion (a scamless combination of ilquid and fat. here slock. or

small saucepan over medium heat unlil il is fragrant. Stir in the scallions

wZiter. and cream).

rmd heat for another minute. Add the 3/. cup stock. the cream. and cr�mc fr.1iche. bring to a simmer. and cook until the liquid IS reduced to 112 cup. Shell the fava beans and pecl thc skins

Swirl in the bUller. When the butler is melted. tr.1nsfer the sauce to a

from the bcans (peeling the bcans bcfore cooking them prevellis gascs

blender. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons stock and blend for 30

from being trapped between the bean and the skin that could c.1use

seconds to emulsify the mixture. Season with snit and pepper and strain

discoloring). Remove the small germ al Ihe side of each bean. You need

into a wide pan.

F O R T H E F/I,VA B E AN F I L L I N G :

I II: cups bc.1ns for the filling; reserve any extra beans for another usc. Blanch the bc.1ns (sec Big-Pot Blanching. page 58) for about 5 minutes. or until lender. and immediately transfer to icc water to chill. When they

Drain the ab'llOlotti. add the agnolotti and ramps to the curry

arc cold. drain the be.,ns and spread on paper towels to drain thoroughly.

emulsion. and toss over low heat to coat with sauce. Divide the agnolotti

Place the beans in a food processor with the hread crumbs. Blend until they come together and form a ball. Add Ihe mascarpone and process again unlil the mixture is smooth. Season to taste with salt. You will have I to 1 1/. cups of filling (enough to fill 48 agnolottO. Refrigerate the mixture until it is cool. or for up to 2 days.

80

Meanwhile. cook the agnolotti 111 a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until cooked through. 4 to 5 minutes.

T h l! F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

and ramps among six serving dishes and garnish Ihe top of each with 3 garlic sprouts. Serve immediately. M A IC ( S 6 S £ II V I H G S


Swect Potnto Agnol o t l i

w i t h Sngc C I'cll l n . Brown B u t tol', nn d Prosc i u t t o

-------0SWEET

P OTATO

Fi lLING

I III pounds sweet potatoes

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsolted butler

SAGE C REAM

Pinch of kosher soh, or to taste

113 cup sage leaves (from about 4 bunches;

Conolo oil for deep-frying

use thc smaller leaves for the fried sage

2 slices bocon, frozen and cut into 'I".inch dice Pinch of Squab Spice (page 233)

48 tiny sage lcoves (reserved from obove)

leof gamish)

2 tablespoons ( 1 ounce) unsolted butter

I cup creme froiche

or allspice and nutmeg

I cup Bcurrc Monte (page

4 thin slices prosciutto, cut crosswise Into

1 35)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

112 recipe Posta

F

Dough (page

fine julienne

78)

or a f ll agnolot ti. I like a sweet potato filling; it's denser than the . . traditIOnal verSion made from the morc watery pumpkin. With the

cream, butter. and prosciutto. thiS is a very rich and delicious dish.

instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approx.imately 48 agnolotti. TO C O M P LETE

For the sage cream. blanch the sage leaves in boiling

water for 2 minutes. Drain. cool in cold watc r. and drain again. Squeeze F O R T H E S W E E T P O TATO F I L L I N G :

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

the leaves dry.

Cut the ends off the potatoes and wrap the potaloes individually in

Heat the creme fraiehe. beurre montc. and salt over low heal until

aluminum fOil. diViding 4 tablespoons of the butter evenly among them.

hot; do not bOIl. Place the sage m a blender and process to chop it. With

Bake unlll they arc soft. 1 to 2 hours (the time will vary. depending on

the motor running. pour the hot cream mixture through the top and

the size of the potatoes).

blend thoroughly. Stram the cream II1to a large skillet. Check the

Unwrap the cooked potatoes and cut a slit lengthwise m the skin of each. Pull the skin away from the potato and discard. Push the potatoes through a potato ricer while they are hot and place in a saucepan. Place the diced bacon in a skillet. Cook unlil it is lightly browned and the fat has been rendered. Transfer the bacon plcces to papcr towels to dram bneny. then add them to the potatoes. Stir the potatoes over low heJt. seasoning to taste with the squab spice and salt and pepper. Mix m the remaining 1 tablespoons butter.

seasoning and set aside. In a slllall pot. heat oil for deep-frying to 275°F. Fry the small sage leaves bneny. Just until they arc crisp (their color should not change). and drain on paper towels. Place the butter

III a

skillet over medium heat and cook to a nutty

brown color: reduce the heat and keep wnrm. Meanwlule. cook the agnolotti in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until cooked through. " to 5 minutes.

You will have about 1213 cups filling (enough to fill 18 agnololli).

Drain the cooked agnolotti and nux them gently with the sage cream

Refrigerate the filling until chilled. or for up to 2 days. before filling

sauce over low heat. Divide the agllo\otll among six. serving dishes and

the agnolotti.

drizzle with the browned butter. Scatter some prosciutto over each

Roll out the dough and fill the agnoloHi according to the

serving and garnish with the fried sage leaves. MAKES 6 S£RVIHGS

Flr,t Course

81


Chm H I l U L

Agnolot L l

w i th

Fo n t i n n an d

Celery ROOL P Ul'ee

C H E STNUT F I L L I N G

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons while truffle oil

1 generous cup peeled roosted fresh chestnuts

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

Vz cup peeled, quartered, and sliced Yukan Gold potato

2 to 3 cups Vegetable Stock (page 227)

(sec NOle) or vacuum·pocked

'12 recipe Pasta Dough (page 78)

3 cups heavy cream

2 boy leaves

SAUC E

1 cup lightly pocked shredded creamy

'/z cup Vegetoble Stock (page 227)

V2 cup sliced onions

'h cup water

1 liz teaspoons chopped garlic

Kosher salt ond freshly ground white pepper

114 cup mascorpone

1 V2 toblespoons unsolted buMer

'12 cup Beurre Monte (poge 135)

3 tablespoons ( ) '/z ounces) unsolted buMcr,

1 Vl cups peeled, quartered, and sliced celery root

1 teaspoon white truffle oil

unsweetened chestnuts

Italian Fontina (2'/z ounces)

01 room temperature

C

great navor

Scrape the vegetables through a lamis and place the puree in a

combination with the Italian Fontina cheese. celery root. and

medium saucepan. Add the cream and sumner for 10 minutes. then

hestnut is a luxurious wintertime filling. and

;1

whisk in the cheese until it is melted. The sauce can be made up to a day

trurnc oiL

ahead and stored in the refrigcrator. but do not add the cheese until Place the chestnuts. bay leaves.

ready to serve. Reheat the sauce and. if it seems too thick. whisk in

vegetahle stock. and W.lter in a saucepan. bringto a simmer. and cook for

enough stock or water to bring it to the desired consistency. Then whisk

.l bout 1 5 minUles. to reduce the liquid by half and soften the chestnuts.

in the cheese unlil melted.

FOR

THE

C H E ST N U T

FILLING

Pass the sauce through a chinois (sec page 73) into a large skillet.

Strain ilnd reserve the liquid: dise.1rd the bay leaf. Puree the chestnuts in " food processor. With the motor running.

You can usc the back of a slllall iadle to help the liquid pass through the

gradually pour enough of the rcserved liqUid through the feed tube to

strainer. but do not force any solids through. Adjust the consistenc), with

form a thick puree.

the reserved stock and season with salt and peppcr.

Scrape the puree through a tam is (see page 73) and place it in a bowl. Mix in the mascarpone. bulter. and white tnJrne oil. Season to

TO

C O M P LETE

Cook the agnolotti in a large pOI of lightly snlted

boiling w.1lcr until cooked through. -1 to 5 minutes.

taste with salt and pepper. You should have I to 1 '14 cups of filling

Meanwhile. stir the beurre monte and tnJfOe oil into the sauce.

(enough for -18 agnolotti). Cover and refrigerate the filling until cold. or

Dr.l in the cooked agnolotti :md add them to thc sauce. stirring

for up to 2 days. before using. Roll out the dough and fill the agnolotli ;!eeording to the instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approximately -18

gently over low heat. Divide the abrnolotti and sauce among six serving bowls and serve immediatcly. MAI«S 6 SERVINGS

agnolotti. F O R T H E S A U C E . Gelltly cook the onions and garlic in the butter in a

82

N O T E : To peel fresh chestnuts. preheat the oven t o 375°F. With a shnrp

medium saucepan over low heat for 3 to -1 minutes. or until they have

paring knife. cut a slit ali lhe way around each chestnut. Hub with a thin

softened. Add the celery root. potatoes. and enough vegetable stock to

coating of vegctahle oil to keep the shell moist and accelerate the cooking

cover them completely. Simmer until the vegetables arc tender. then

process. Place on a baking sheet and bake for IS minutes. or unlil the

dr.l in. reserving the liquid.

shells hegin to pull away from the chestnuts. Peel while still warm.

The F r e n c h Loundry Cookbook


W h i le

P O L E NTA

� ol"n

A g n o l o t t i w i th S U llllllCI' Tl"\lrrlcs

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsoiled butter,

3/" cup Vegetable Stock (page 227) 3/-4 cup water 1/-4 cup plus 3 toblespoons polenta R I SOTTO

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter,

at room temperature

at room temperature

l lJ-4 cups corn juice (from 7 to 8 ears; see Note)

(sce Blg.Pot Blanching, poge 58),

1/2 recipe Posta Dough (page 78; Note' If

1 cup Vegetable Stock (poge 227),

or more as needed

chilled in Ice water, drained, and dried

making extra ognolotti to freeze, you will

2 tablespoons finely minced summer truffle

need slightly less than 1 112 recipes dough,)

2 tablespoons finely minced chives

About 1 112 cups water

CORN

J/" cup Arborio ricc

2 cups com juice (from about 1 2 ears; see Note)

SAUCE

1 teaspoon white truffle oil

liz cup mascorpone, at room temperature

T

2/3 cup corn kernels, blanched until tender

Pormiglano·Rcggiono shavings

hese ab'llolotti contain a delicious filling that owes mueh of ils

Place the 1 1/, cups corn juice in a saucepan and whisk it constantly

impJct to thc corn juicc. which is intensely flavored and also helps

over medium heat until it has thlckencd and reached 1 BO°F. Do not

to blcnd the polcntJ and mascarpone-enriched risotto.

exceed that temperature or it may separate. Remove It from the heat and whisk it into the polenta/rice mixture. You will want to whisk

FO R TH E P O L E N TA �

Bring the vegetable stock and water to a boil in a

saucepJn. While whisking the liquid. pour in the poleOia in

vigorously at first and thcn beat with a spoon to be sure that all the

steady

clements arc evenly blended, There should be approximately 3 cups of

stream and. continumg to whisk. bring to simmer. Place the pot on a

filling (enough for 10 dozen agnolotti), which can be used

diffuser o\'er very low heat. Cook the polenta. stirrl1lg occasionally. for

immediately or refrigerated for up to 2 days: cxtra filling can be frozcn

about 20 minutes. or until it forms a ball as it is stirred and IS fully

if you prefcr. Roll out the dough and fill the agnolotti according to the

cooked. with no raw cornmeal taste. Keep it w.um over very low heat.

directions on pages 78 and 79. You can freeze extra agnolotti. for up to

M E A N W H I L E. F O R T H E R I S OTTO;

a

Bring the stock and Ph cups water

to a simmer In a saucep.ln. Spread the rice in one layer In a wide saucepan. Add I/z. cup of the hot liquid and stir constantly over medium

a few weeks. FOR

THE

CORN

SAUCE

Placc the corn Juice in a saucepan over

medium heat. Whisk constantly until it has thickcncd and reaches

heat until the hqUld has evaporated. Add another 112 cup and continue as

1 80oP, Slart the blender and pour in thc hOI corn liquid. With the motor

above. adding more liquid oncc the prevIOus addition has e\'aporatcd.

running. add the hutler and blend for a few seconds. Strain the sauce

The rice should be fully cooked for the filling. so if it is not tender aftcr

through a fine· mesh strainer into a saucepan.

you havc used all the liqUld. continue to add smaller amounts of hot

TO C O M P L E T E

watcr or stock until it IS fully cookcd. When It is cooked. it will form a

to 5 l1unutes. Meanwhile, gently reheat the corn sauce (do not boil) and

stid,}' ball as It is stirred (it should be thicker in consistcncy than regular

add the corn. tnlffle. and chives. Just hefore serving. add the truffle oil.

risotto when it is served as a dish). While it is still hot. put the risotto through the fine die of a meat

Cook 48 agnolotti in lightly salted boiling water for 4

Drain the agnolotti and divide them among six serving dishes. Top with the SJuce and sh:\\'ings of Parmesan.

hrrinder (if you do not own a gnnder. you can pass it through a food mill

MAKES

6

!d R V I N G S

fitted with a fine disk). Hepcat the process, so Ihat you have ground it twicc. Place thc polenta in a clean saucep:m and set It over low heat. Stir in

NOTE O N CORN J U I C E

I f you have a juicer. eut the kernc1s frolll Ihc

the ground risotto to comblne the two mixtures. l\ell1ove from the heat

cob and follow the manufacturer's instructions. I f you do not have a

;lnd stir in the mascarponc and butler until thoroughly combined.

juicer. follow the method on page 172.

F i r s t C o u r s (t

83


I Ir

Tr u f f l e s

84

T h o F t o n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook


Fresh tnlmes arc becoming available III marc specialty stores, and they're being grown with varying degrees of success in Olany countries, but none matches those found in France and Italy. It's imponant to usc enough trumes. Orrering just one slice is wasterul. bccause you don't get its full impact. Tnlmes have a short season. The bcst black ones come from Francc: 1 buy large quantities of thcm in scason, pO;:lch thcm in mushroom stock. ;:lnd freeze them for when we need them. The vel)' bcst white trurnesare fromA1ba. Only usc them fresh. Ifyou necd to store them, don't use rice. as somc expens advise-it dries them out. instead, keep them in an airtight cont3iner wrapped with a moist towcl. Trumes grow in clay-based soil and must be carefully scmbbed in warm water.


T n :o; t 1 n g or POlnlocs w i l h B l ne1( 'l'1'ufrlcs

P O TATO

PUREE

MUSHROOM

1 11 ..pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

V.. teaspoon while wine vinegar

RAGOUT

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted buller,

1 2 ounces assorted smarr potatoes In a variety

I cup heavy cream, wormed

of shapes and colors (for example, 3 ounces

1 0 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted buller,

each French Fingerling,

at room temperature, cut into 6 pIeces

Red Russian Fingerling,

at room temperature, cut into 4 chunks

2 tablespoons Brunaise (page 155) I III tablespoons finely minced block truffle

purple Peruvian, and marble potatoes)

V2 teospoon kosher salt, or to toste

I teaspoon kosher solt, or to taste

I tablespoon minced chives

Freshly ground block pepper

I V.. cups Truffle路lnfused Mushroom Stock

2 tablespoons white truffle oil

(poge 87) or 3/.. cup Mushroom Stock

Freshly ground block pepper

(page 227) plus 112 cup truffle Juice

1 6 Truffle Chips (page 48)

(see Sources, page 3 1 5)

T

his dish combines several different potato preparations-sliccd

half and then into 111ft-inch half circles. Long narrow potatoes can be cut

small. served in a bed of mashed pOlatoes. with chopped trurnes. a

into small circles of the same thickness. and larger potatoes may need to

trume sauce. ilnd erispy trurne potato chips. The contrast of texturcs颅

be quartcred lengthwise before they arc sliced. There will be about

creamy. firm, crunchy-makes the ordinary extraordinary.

3 cups of sliced potaloes.

The h:l rdest part of Ihis dish is the mashed potatoes: in some ways.

Place the potato slices in a strainer and rinse them under cold

it mOlY be the mosl difficult recipe here. heeause there are so many small

watcr. Place them in a pot with I teaspoon salt and cold water to cover by

choiecs that have a big impact. First. you should cook the potatoes i n

2 inches. Bring the water to a boil and cook the potatoes for 2 to 3

thcir jackets s o that the water doesn't penetrate into the meat. You must

minutes. or until just tender. Drain in a strainer. rinse the potatoes

cook them in Ihe right amount ofwaler nt the right tempernturc. a gentle

cOirefully under cold water. and set aside,

heOit. so they don't burst open; don't just throw the potatoes in a pot and

Bring the trume-infused mushroom stock (or the mushroom stock

boil the life out of them. Then let the excess moisture steam off after

and trurne juice) and vinegarto a simmer in a medium saucepan and let

boiling and pass the potatoes through the tamis while they're still hal.

reduce for 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in the butter. one piece at a time. then

Finally. you must emulsify the bUlter and cream into thcm without

add the cooked potato slices and simmer until the stock thickens to a

brc.1king that emulsification. knowing exactly how much butter and

sauce conSistency (vinegar helps prevent root vegctables such as

cre.1m you c:m gel into them-:lIld then knowing how to get even more

potatoes from overcooking). Add the brunoisc. black trume. and chives

in! Therc's a great lesson in Ihis recipe: how to pay ;lttention to the

and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm over very low heat.

details ofwhn{ we think is a simple preparation.

TO

F I N I S H T H E P O TATO P U R E E

This recipe involves an exacting

technique for achieving the perfect potato puree. Special care must be PI;lce theYukon Cold potatoes lll a pot with

takcn to maintain a low temperature while emulsifying the potatoes.

enough w.1ter 10 cover them by .11 least 4 inches. Bnng to a boil and boil

butler, Olnd cream. If thc temperature becomes too high. thc butter will

F O R T H E P O TATO P U R E E :

gently until lhe potatoes arc tcnder and offer no resistance when poked

melt as it is added and the potatoes will become oily. You will need to

wilh a knife. 30 to 40 minutes. depending on their si1.e. Drain the

remain with the potatoes throughout the cooking process.

potOltoes and return to the empty pOI ovcr medium heat for a minute to stearn off excess moisture. MEANW H ILE,

86

FOR

THE

Peel the hot potatoes. pass them through a tamlS (sec page 73). and

a

plaec the puree in a hcavy pot. Stir MUSHROOM

RAGOUT

CUI the assorted

IJl

the salt and beat With a wooden

spoon o\'er low he l 10 dry them out slightly. Add the cream and butler a

potatocs (do not peel them) into pieces Olpproximately the samc si1.e so

little ilt a time. nlternating thcm and bealing vigorously the entire time.

that their cooking limes will he the same: Cut small round potatoes in

The puree should be holding to the sides of the pan Olnd will be stiffer

The F r e ro c h l a u ro d r y C o o k b o o k


and more difficult to mix than traditional mashed potatoes. If it does not hold. and forms a ban around thc spoon. your pan may be too hot. Should this happen. remove the pan from the heat and beat in a small amount of water to return the potatoes to the proper consistency. Then lower the heat. return the pan to the heat, :md continue adding the cream and butter. Scrve the potatoes as soon as possible. TO

COM PLETE

Sllr the white trome oil into the ragout. Season the

potato puree with additional salt if needed and pepper to taste. Spoon some puree into each serving bowl. Make a well in the ccnter and fill with the potato ragout. Carnish each portion with 2 lname potato chips. MA! « S

T R U F F L E · I N F U S E D

M U S H R O O M

8 5 {1 � V I N G 5

S T O C K

4 ounces summer truffles, or winter (block) truffles 3 cups Mushroom Stock (page 227) Fresh raw trufnes arc excellent if you use them right away. but poaching and freezing them allows you to buy largcr quantities whcn thcy arc in season and storc them for future usc. A �,'1'eat side bcnefit is that you're left with a wonderful truffle-mfused mushroom stock. The navor will depend on the quality of the trume used. Don't expect robust navors when using summer trumcs. The stock will keep frozen for six months. With a mushroom brush. nailbrush. or small scrub brush. carefully scrub the dirt from the trumes under warm water. (If it IS not completely removed. it will stick to the trufncs as they poach and because it is so fine. you Will not be able to Slram the dirt from the stock,) Place the cleaned trurnes

III

a small pot. Strain the mushroom stock through a

chinois (sec page 73) over the trurnes. Discard what rcm,nns I T1 thc chinois. Cover the trumes with a small plate or lid to keep them submerged in the liquid. Heat the stock slowly to a gentle sllmner and poach the trumes for

20 minutes. Remove the trurnes to a small bowl and strain enough stock over to lust cover. Strain the rcmallling stock Into a separate container. Cool in Ihe refrigerator. then place the stock and lrumes with their stock III plastic containers or resealable bags in the freeler. MAI( [ $

ABOUT

2 112

CliPS

(PLU�

TtU

TRUfflB)

F i r " C O \.l , � e

87


Cnl'nul'oli Risotto with Shaved White "rruttles tl'Oln Albn ----------------

� o �

---------------

PART

1

P A it T 2

2 to 21f2 cups Chicken Stock (page 226),

2 tablespoons conolo oil 3 tablespoons mInced onions (minced smaller than the graIns of rice)

Vegetable Stock (page 227), Mushroom Stock (page

227), or water, heated to a

simmer (for risotto with white truffles, use

I cup Cornoroli rice

1 cup crisp dry white wine, such as Souvignon Blanc

2 cups Chicken Stock (page 226),

1 '/.. cups chicken stock and I If.. cups water)

Vegetable Stock (page 227), Mushroom Stock

If.. teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste 5 tablespoons (2 112 ounces) unsalted buner

(page 227), or woter, healed to a simmer

31.. cup

(for risono wIth white truHles, use 1 cup

If.. cup freshly grated Pormigiono·Reggiono

chicken stock and

1

cup water)

heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

3 tablespoons white truffle oil (for risotto with white truffles) Fresh while truffle (optional)

T

he best rice for risotto is grown in Italy's Po Valley. You can use

before the wine was added. Scrape the bottom of the pan to keep the rice

Arborio rice. but Carnaroli results in risotto with the creamiest

from sticking. TIle alcohol smell should be completely gone. Increase the

conSistency.

heat and add the stock; it should just cover the rice. When it boils. reduce

If you don't have truffles. the basic risouo could be topped with

the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Drain the rice. discarding any

Braised Oxtails (page 162). a mushroom ragout. or a variety of

remaining liquid. Spread the rice in a 9- by 13-inch pan or other similar­

accompaniments. Base the liquid used in preparing the risotto on the

size container. cover. and refrigerate for several hours. or up to a day.

2 : Put the rice in a saute pan. add 112. cup of the stock and the salt.

finished dish. For example. use chicken stock when you are serving

PART

meat. or vegetable stock for an asparagus garnish. Risotto normally

and stir over high heat until the liquid begins to simmer: it should

requires a cook's undivided attention over a long period of time. TIlis

continue to simmer throughout the cooking. As the stock evaporates. add

two-part method allows you to begin the rice preparation the day before

Ih cup more. Continue to cook. adding more stock as it evaporates and

and makes the final cooking time less than ten minutes. The dish should

tasting the rice from time to time. TIle finished rice will be similar 10 al

be served as soon as it is completed.

dente pasta; it should be thoroughly cooked but with a little "bitcH remaining to it. never mushy. When the rice is cooked. let whatever liquid

PART 1 :

Heat the oil in a deep heavy saute pan over medium heat. Stir

in the onions and cook slowly until softened and translucent but not browned. Mix in the rice and stir for 3 to 4 minutes.

88

remains in the pan evaporate (you may not use all the stock called for). Remove the risotto from the heat and. using a wooden spoon. beat in the butter a little at time. working quickly so it will "emulsify" with

Add the wine and let it simmer. without stirring. for 2 to 3 minutes.

the rice (creating a creamy risotto) rather than melt into the risotto.

(After adding the wine. lean close to the pan and breathe in the aroma.

Vigorously beat in the whipped cream. cheese. salt to taste. and the white

You will be able to smell and feel the raw alcohol at the back ofyour nose.

truffle oil. if using. Divide among servingbowls. Place shavings of white

Breathe it in several times during the cooking process. and as the

truffle. if using. over the top of the risotto: The truffle can be shaved over

alcohol evaporates and the rice begins to toast. the raw alcohol smell will

the risotto at the table ifyou have a truffle slicer. or it can be sliced in the

dissipate and be replaced with the smell of toasted rice.) When the liquid

kitchen on a mandoline and then scattered over the risotto. Serve

has been absorbed. begin stirring to "toast" the rice. The rice should not

immediately.

brown. but it will separate into individual grains. looking much as it did

P I C T U R E D ON

The French laundry Cookbook

PAGE

MAKlS

6 TO 8 SERVINGS


Ilccntlse the white trurrlc 1!iI such nn

c.xtrnordlnnry girt. nnd beentlsc the

�eo�OIl-rouj:thly October t h l'ough

Dccenlbcl-IH so Hhol't, you wnnt to

Il'cot It os !:4ltnply I\S possible. nR we do In thl!:4 cloHslc Plcdlnorllcsc I'IHOllO.

I lelll'llcd the tcchn lCJuc or roldlng

whipped creon1 IIHO I'lsotto rl'On1

Aloin DucnHHc, Though Ihe crcnln

doet'l "Inelt" out or Its whipped SIOte.

It conts nil the Inol" louol gl'oln:.!

n101'c cosily thon I t would ullwhlppcd,

,,\Iwnys odd your rot nt the end. ,... lth

the pHn orr the hcnt.

F i r s t C o u r s c.'

89


Potato Gnocchi

o � �

----------------

----------------

as

2 pounds russet potatoes

3 large egg yolks

1 V4 to 1 'h cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons kosher salt, or to t te

T

hiS rceipe yields more gnocehi than arc needed for a single recipe.

Roll the ball of dough lightly in flour. Pull off a section of the dough

but their versatility makes them an ideal item to have 011 hand. Usc

and roll it by hand on a lightly floured surface into a "snake" about 112

them as a garnish or serve them as a meal. We serve small gnoeehi. but

inch thick. Cut into liz-inch pieces and. using your hand. roll each piece

they can be shaped larger if desired. Part of what makes this a great

into a ball. Then roll the balls on a gnocchi paddle or over the back of a

recipe is that the gnoeehi freeze so well. and they go directly from the

fork to create an oval shapc with indentations. Test one gnocchi by

freezcr into boiling watcr so they're always at the ready.

pJacingit in a large pot of r3pidly boiling lightly sa.lted water. It is cooked

Preheat the oven to 3S0oP.

salt to the dough if necessary, or add a bit more nour if the gnocchi

as soon as it floats to the surf3ce. Taste for seasoning and texture and add Bake the potatoes for I hour. or until they arc completely cooked.

secms mushy. Continue forming the remaining gnocchi. placing them

Split the potatoes. scoop out the flesh. and press it through a potato

on a lightly floured tray until ready to cook.

ricer. Place the hot potatoes on a board or counter. Make a well in the

Place the gnocchi in thc boiling water. Use a slotted spoon or

center. Place a layer of about 112 cup flour in the well. add the egg yolks.

slammer to remove them to a bowl of icc water as they rise to the surface.

then add about 112 cup more flour and the salt. Usc a dough scraper to

Once they have cooled (3bout 2 minutes) drain them briefly on paper

"chop" the potatoes into the flour <:md eggs. This process should be done

towels or a kitchen towel. Lay them in a single layer on a parchment­

quickly ( I 5 to 30 seconds), as oven'l'ork-ing the dough will make the

lined baking sheet. Store in the pan in the refrigerator if they will be

gnocchi heavy and stiCky. Add more flour as necessary. The resulting

used shortly (up to a day), or place them in the freezer. Once they arc

dough should be homogcncous and barely sticky on the outside. Shape

frozen. they can be stored in well -scaled plastic bags and kept frolen for

the dough into a ball.

several weeks: cook them while they arc still frozen. Saute the gnocchi as directed on page 91 just before serving. M A K E S A ' O U T 20 O O l f N S M I\ l l G N O C C H I


''''0 I'n1 Fl'll l t wood�Sn101(ed 8 0 1 n1 0 n w i t h Potato G n occ h l u n d B o l s a n1 i c G l oze

------- o�----SALMON

3/" cup Chicken Stock (page 226)

GREENS

3 cups milk, or more as needed

Few drops white wine vinegar

Ih: cup assorted baby beet, orugula, and/or any

1 pound center-cut smoked solman fillet

4112 tablespoons (2'1" ounces). salted butter,

(see Sources, page 3 1 5), trimmed and cut into 6 squares 2 inches by 2 inches by 3/" inch

other biner greens

3/" teaspoon very finely minced shallot

cut into 4 pieces 1 tablespoon Brunoise (page 155)

Lemon oil (see Sources, page 3 1 5)

GNOCCHI

1 tablespoon tomolo diamonds (see page 203)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons canolo oil

1 tablespoon chopped chives

36 Potato Gnocchi (page 90)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

Chive Oil (page 1 66), In a squeeze bOHle

(do not thaw if frozcn)

I

n this dish. smoked salmon-typically served cold-is heated

Balsamic Gloze (page 23B), in a SQueeze bonle

milk

heat. or add additional cold milk to lower the temperature. If the salmon

and served warm. Take care nol to let the milk get too hot-you don't

overheats. it will poach and thereby lose its beautiful translucent orange

m

want to poach the salmon or allow its color to change. The milk leaches

color and turn a more opaque. less vibrant color.

salt from the flcsh. which allows one to serve the fish warm and to keep

MEANWHtLE, FOR T H E G N O CCH I :

the intebrrity of thc smol...), cured navor without overpowering the dish

over mcdium-high heat only until fragrant. Pour off the excess oil.

with salt. As with bacon. I prefer a fruitwood smoke to a hardwood

leaving only enough to coat the pan. Toss in the gnocchi and cook for

smoke for the salmon becausc it's swceter.

In a large saute pan. heat the oil

I to 2 minutes. or until golden brown on the bottom. Add the chicken stock, vinegar. and buttcrand let it simmer for a few minutes to reduce to

F O R T H E SALMON :

I n a saucepanjust largeenough to holdthe salmon

a sauce-like consistency. Add the brunoise. tomato diamonds. chopped

pieces in one layer, warm the milk to 1 15°F. Add the salmon. The pieces

chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat.

should be fully submerged in thc milk. Warm the salmon for about

FOR T H E G R E E N S :

7 minutes over very low heat. not allowing the temperature to exceed

Lightly drcss with a little lemon oil and season to taste with salt

1 15°F. If the temperature hebrins to climb, remove the pan from the

In a bowl. mix the baby greens with the shallot.

and pepper. TO C O M P L E T E :

Squeeze a ring of chive oil onto each plate. Arrange

6 gnocchi. with some of the sauce. in the center of cach ring of chive oil.

Place a piece of salmon on the gnocchi. twist a small bunch of greens in the palm of your hand so that they cling together. and set on top of the salmon. Squee7.e dots of thc balsamic gla7.e 10 a line down either side of each plate. crcatmgspots that go from larger to smaller in size. Connect the dots with additlOnal chive oil if )'ou wish.

MAKES

6

S(RVINGS

F i r s t Course 91


D u ngcncss Cl'nb Salad w i l h C u c u J n b e r Jelly. G l'o.iny Mustard Vinaigl'ette, a n d Fl'isee Lettuce

------ 0----- ---I

cup amaranth, baby beet greens,

C U C U M B E R J E l lY

CRAB

Ih small cucumber, peeled

Ih cup heavy cream

1 'I.. gelatin sheets, soaked in cold water to soften

2 teaspoons whole路grain Oijon mustard

3 tablespoons grated doikon radish

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Extra virgin olive oil

2 '12 cups (about 1 2 ounces) cooked Oungeness

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

1 cup cucumber juice (from about 1 pound

cucumbers, unpeelcd, put through a juicer

SALAD

baby orugulo, or other baby greens

and strained; or purchased from a heolth

crabmeat (from about 2 Oungeness crabs;

food store)

see poge 50 for cooking instrudians)

36 small sprigs dill

T

hiS is a wonderful chilled salad thanks to the clean and distinctive

of each dish. Place the bowls in the rcfngerator for at le<l.st I hour and up

flavor of thc crab. I've combined it with clcments that have gone

to several hours to set the jelly.

with crab forever-cucumber, frcsh dill, and mustard.

TO C O M P L E T E :

In a medium bowl. whip the hcavy cream until it forms

a ribbon when the whisk is lifted (just before soft peaks). Whisk in the FOR THE

J E L LY:

Using a mandolinc or sharp knifc. cut lengthwise

slices about '116 inch thick from the cucumber. Cut the shccs into narrow strips about Va inch wide. Cut thc strips on thc diagonal to makc small cucumber diamonds: you witl nced about 2 tablcspoons of diamonds.

Toss the greens with the daikon. a drizzle of oil. and salt and white pepper to taste.

Squeezc the gelatin to rcmovc excess watcr and placc it in a small

Fill a 2- to 2lh-inch ring mold. about 1 liz inches high (sce Sources,

mctal bowl. Sct the bowl over <I. pan of hot water and stir to dissolve the

page 3 1 5). with crab salad. Slip your hand undcrthe filled ring and place

gelatin. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the cucumber juice.

the ring over the center of the chilled jelly in one bowl. lift off and

being certain that the gelatin completely dissolvcs.

remove the ring and top the crab salad with a stack of the drcssed

Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons of the jclly into each of six shallow serving

92

mustard and salt and white pepper to taste. Place thc crabmeat in a bowl and fold in just enough of the whipped cream to bind the salad.

grcens. Rcpcat with the remaining bowls. and scrvc immediately. Of the

bowls and rolate the bowls to distribute the jelly evenly. Making certain

)dtchen is vcry warm. thc gelatin may begin to melt; should this happen.

that the dishes are level. arrange the cucumber diamonds and the dill

return them to the refrigerator briefly to set up before serving.)

sprigs over the jelly kccplllg in mind that the crab will sit in the center

P I C T U R E O ON P A G E 5 2

Tne F r e n c n Loundry Cookbook

MAKES 6 SERYINGS


Chcsnpenl<e Bay Soft-shell Cr'ob " S a n d w i c h "

� O �

----------------

-----------------

SAUCE

1 toblespoon minced shallot

Clarified BuHer (poge 1 25), for panfrying

2 hard·boiled egg yolks

1 tablespoon minced Itolion parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons Chicken Stock (page 226), heated,

2 tablespoons Brunaise (poge 155)

Flour far dusting

Kosher salt ond freshly ground block pepper

6 brioche Croutons (sec page 238)

or hot woler

3 tablespoons cornichan juice

6 pieces Tomato Confit (page 64),

I teaspoon Dijon mustard

Canola oil for deep-frying

112 cup conolo oil

I tablespoon capers, drained

3 tablespoons minced cornichons

6 live soft-shell crabs

T

his is not really a s ndwich. of course. but the d sh was inspired by . my love of traditional soft-shcll crab sandWiches hcapcd with

ot room temperature 1/.. cup baby arugula (or regular orugula cut

into chiHanode-long narrow strips)

reservc. Cut Orr and discard the smaller legs and trim the sides of the body for a smooth edge. Lift off the apron. the pointed piece on the underside

tomatoes and tartar saucc. I've refashioned the ingredients of a classic

of each crab. Remove the iunb"S and any other matter beneath the apron.

tartar sauce-cggyolks. dill pickles. capers-as hard-boilcd yolks. Dijon

Rinse the six bodies and twelve claws and pat dry with paper towels.

mustard. and cornichons. On tap of thc sauce. 1 put a crouton. then the

Heat lIs inch of clarified butter in a large skillet over medium heat.

crab. trimmed down to just its body and claws. then tomato eonfit.

Season the pieces of crab with salt and pepper and dredge in flour.

arugula. and fried capers.

palling off any excess. Add the crab bodies shell side down to the hot butter. The butter should be hot enough to Sizzle when the crabs are

FO R TH E S A U C E: Blend the egg yolks. chicken stock. eorniehon juice.

added. but not so hot that it pops and spurts from the pan. Saute the erab

and mustard in a blcnder. With the machine running. slowly drizz.1e in

bodies for 2 to 3 minutes. until they are golden brown and erusty on the

the oil so the mixlure emulsifies. Remove the sauce to a small bowl and

bottom. Turn the bodies. add the claws. and cook for2 to 3 minutes; turn

stir in the remaining sauce ingredients. The sauce can be refrigerated

the elaws after about I minute. Remove the erab pieces and drain on

for up to 2 days: bring to room temperature before scrving. FOR THE CAPERS

I n a very small pot. heat about 2 inches of canola oil

paper towels. TO C O M P L E T E

Place a spoonful of sauce in the center of each serving

to 250°F. Add the drained capers and fry slowly for 12 to 15 minutes. or

plate. Center a crouton on the sauce and top it with a crab body. Fold a

until bubbles have stopped forming around the capers and they are dry

piece of tomato conCit in half and plaee it over the crab. Arrange 2 claws

and crunchy. Drain them on paper towels.

over caeh piece of tomato and ftnish with a stack of baby arugula.

TO C L E A N T H E C R A B S : Using a pair of scissors. cut off the crabs' faces

Sprinkle thc plates with the fried capers. Serve immediately.

and discard. Cut off the two large claws where they mect the body and

P I C T U R E D O N P A G E 94

Fir�t Course

93


Above. Chesopll'okc DoV Soft路 shell C.ob 路Sondwlch: poge

94

The French L a u n d r y Cookbook

93. Opposite.

Oungenen cfob fot Oungenen C.ob Solod, po!)e 92.


Fint Couru�

9S


Cnl'pncola

8 ounces sushl-quollty yellowfln tuna fIIlCf with os lillIe sinew os possible

at

Yc l l o w t l n

Tunn

1901sc

CClnola 011 far deep·frying

3 tablespoons Tapenode (page 66)

1 teaspoon c.opers, droined

6 quail eggs, hard·boiled (2 minutes) and peeled

Extro oArgln olive 011

1 cup loosely pocked frisec (Inner white leaves only)

SALAD

If.. cup Herb Salad (reclpe follows)

I toblespoon hot paprika

Ih smoll yellow bell pepper

1 teaspoon e)(lra virgin olive 011

6 triangulor·shaped brioche Croutons (page 238)

112 small red bell pepper

V.. tcospoon bol50mlc vinegor

Fleur de sci

I small fennel bulb

Kosher salt

1 toblespoon Pepper Confetti (recipe follows)

T

his i8 simply another incarnation of the classic salade Ni�oise.

IIlIO a fine julienne. You will need about 2 tablespoons. (Reserve the

which is canned white tuna. hard-boiled eggs. olives. and whatever

remain i ng fennel ror another usc.)

letluecs .1 re around. Thill version uties fresh tuna. hard -boiled quail eggs

I n a very small pot. heat about 2 1 nehes of canolaoil to 250°F. Add the

rather thnn hen eggs. and frislic and a julienne of red and yellow peppers

drained capers and rf)' them over low heat for 12 to 1 5 minutes.or until

rather than a large salad. The olivcs take the rorm or tapenade. a very

they arc dry and crunchy. It·s important to use a low temperature. or the

Intense and cOJlccntr.,tcd preparation that adds clements of anchovy

capers-which arc a bud-will not open. (Frying vegetables dehydrates

and olive oil 10 the dish.

them. or removes all the water. If thc temperature IS too hot. they will brown berore :tll tlte moisture IS removed and they will not df)' out properly

Thinly slice the luna fillet. Lightly oil six pieecs of

or get the crunchy result you seck.) Bubbles will appear around the capers

pla8tie wrap and lay the slices in 6 equal portions on the plastic wrap.

as long as there is still moisture present. When the bubbles are gone. remove the capers from the oil and dl.lin on papertowcls.

F O R Tiff T U t U -

Rub the lap or the tuna slices with a light coating of oil and cover with

Toss the rrisce with the herb salad. bell peppers. rennel.

more plastic wr.,p. Use n nat meat pounder to lightly pound the slices,

TO C O M P L E T E

then usc a rolling pin to roll the lun:. into p:.per-thin shcels.

and capers. Add the olive oil. balsamic vinegar. and a pinch or salt.

Place a 4 -lneh round culler or mold on each picce and run a sharp

Remove the top sheet or plastic wrap rrom one round or tunOl and

knife around the mold and through the wrap. The circles or tuna. still in

invert the rish onto a serving plOlle. Remove the second piece or wrap

the plil8tie. can he refrigerated for a few hours. (ncser.·c the scr.,ps for

and rub a thin coating of olive oil over the tuna. RepeOlt with the

another utle. Buch il8 tuna tartare.)

remaining tuna.

Peel the skin from the peppers with a vegetable

Place a sm:.11 quenel!e (sec page 274), or oval scoop ( l ih

peeler. Cut the peppcrs into sections rollowing their natural lines. and

teaspoons). of tapenade ofr to one side or each circle of tunOl. Place a

peel the edge8 a8 neee8sary. Trim and discilrd the nhs ilnd seeds and cut

small mound of herb salad between the tuna and tapenadc. Trim the

FOR

THE

SA L A D .

the peppers into fine julienne about 1 inch long. You will need about

bottom or each qu:ul egg so that it will stand up. dip the top of the quail

2 tablespoolls of each color pepper.

egg in the paprika. and nestle an egg and a crouton by the bl'feens and

Cut <I vertie<ll slice about IIIl inch thick rrom onc or the outer layers of the fennel bulh. Trim it so that you have a nat piece and cut it

tapcnadc on each plate. SprinkJe the tuna with neur de sel and sprinkle the pepper conrctti over the plates. M A IC U

96

Tho F r o n d ' L a u n d r y

Cookbook

6

S ( II V I N G S


P E P P E R

C O N F ETTI

Red, yellow, ond green "foncy" bell peppers

This is a lovely. colorful garnish when bell peppers suil the food-in the gazpacho. say. or the blini with roasted peppers. anything Mediterranean or Proven�al in style. Use " fancy" peppers as they have more flesh and will give a far superior result. Cut off the tops and bottoms of the peppers. then cut the peppers into sections following the natural lines in the skin. Trim away the ribs and seeds. Peel off the skin. using a vegetable peeler. You will be left with smooth flat pieces of pepper about 114 inch thick. Cut the peppers into 111 6-ineh julienne strips. L.1y the pepper strips on the glass tray In the microwave or another microwave dish Ihat has a smoolh surface. Do not place the peppers on a plale or dish that has a textured surface. or the strips WI)) dry unevenly

..

:lI1d may burn in spots. M icrow3vc on medium-high power for 10 to 15 minutes. or until the strips are dried out. L.1y the finished strips side by side and cut them into small dice. Store in an airtight container at room temperature: the confetti will keep for weeks if the pepper strips have been completely dried. H E R B

2112 tablespoons Iiolian parsley leaves

2'12 tablespoons chervil (in small clusters)

S A L A D

1 tablespoon tarragon lcoves I teaspoon thyme lcoves (for fish

-.

dishes only) 1 tablespoon chive or thyme flowers

2 tablespoons chive lips (about I inch long)

Cently mix the herbs just before serving. We not only use herbs to flavor dishes in their cooking and 3S garnish. we also serve them on their own in the form of an herb salad. Use small sprigs of tender herbs such as chervil, chives. parsley. cilantro. and thyme leaves. For herhs wilh harder stems such as thyme. use just the leaves: because when they're fresh and whole. they're powerful. so )'ou need only a small (Iuantit)'. ",, "' '' l S ... ďż˝ C "' N T

'12 c U P

Fin. CourlC

97


F .. icassee

or Escn l'gots w i t h n Pu .. ee or Sweet

Roasted S h a l lots .

and H e r b S n l ad

RED W I N E SAUCE

112 cup sliced leeks

CARROT PUREE

2 pieces morrow bone (cut t III inches long)

2 small boy leaves

8 ounces carrots, cut into uniform pieces about

Conolo oll

¥.. teaspoon block peppercorns

1/.. cup chopped carrots

I !emon

About 2 cups heavy cream

1J.. Cup chopped turnips

P/.. cups crisp, dry whlte wine, such as

Kosher salt

1 small clove garlic, crushed

V2 inch wide and 1 inch long ( 1 1J2 cups)

ROASTED S HALLOTS

Souvignon Blanc

\ cup dry f� wine, such as Cobernet Souvignan

SNAILS

6 medium shallots (about 6 ounces)

3 tablespoons port

36 fresh snails In the shell (about \ 112 pints)

Canolo oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots I tablespoon oll·purpose flaur

i 'h cups Vcoi Stock (pogo 222) III cup wotcr

or 36 best·quality conned large snoJls

6 triangular brioche Croutons (page 238)

(if using conned snails)

V.. cup Herb Salad (page 97)

(if using conned snails)

2 sprigs Italian po�lcy

l 1J2 teaspoons minced shallots

I sprig tarragon

2 teaspoons tomato diamonds (see page 203)

I small boy leaf

I tablespoon Brunoise (page 1 55)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

112 cup Beurre Monte (page 1 35)

C O U R T B O U I L LO N

Kosher solt

3 tablespoons unsolted butter

2 tablespoons minced shallots

2 sprigs chervil

( IF

U S I N G F R E S H SNAILS)

1 tablespoon water

2112 cups water

2 teaspoons minced Italian po�ley

III cup sllccd carrots

Kosher salt

Soak the marrow honcs in a howl of ice water for

After the court bouillon has returned to a simmer. pour it over the

20 minutes. Drain anu remove the marrow from the bones by pushing it

snails and place the bowl in an ice bath. Let the snails and liquid cool

out with your finger. If it doesn', eome out easily. soak the bones brieny

completely.

FO R TH E

M A R RO W;

in warm water. just to loosen the marrow. Soak the marrow pieces in a

When the snails arc cold. remove them one by one from the court

bowl of ice water for 12 to 24 hours. changing the water every 6 to 8

bouillon. reserving it. and remove the snails from the shells: Pl:lce the

hours. (It is imporlant to change the water. because as the blood is

tip of a paring knife or a toothpick behind the head of the snail and

extraeted from the marrow. the water will become saturated with it and

gently pry the snail fonvard. Usc your fingers to carefully pull the snail

the marrow could spoil.)

from the shell while gently twisting the body. (The body follows the

F O R T H E C O U R T B O U I L L O N ( I F U S I N G F R E S H S N A I L S ) ; Placc the

shape of the shell and you need to be careful not to break it.) As you

water in " saucepan.Add the e.nrots. leeks. bay leaves. and peppercorns.

remove each snail. place it in cold wnteT; discard the shells.

Bring to a boil. then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cut the lemon in half.

Strain the court bouillon. Remove the snails from the water and place

squeeze in the juice. and :Idd the lemon halves and wine to the s:luccpan.

them in the bouillon. (Bc careful not to put your fingers in the bouillon: as

Me:lliwhile. rinse thc fresh snails under cold running water :Ind place them in a bowl.

98

Co ....o t s .

The

French laundry Cookbook

with any stock or sauce. you might add bacteria to the liquid and thereby reduce its shelf life.) Cover the snails and rcfrigcrate for up to 4 days.


F O R C A N N E D S N A I L S ; Rinse the snails under cold running water.

becomes too thick. add a little water. Strain the sauce into a small

Melt the butter in a small sldllet. add the shallots. and cook over low heat

Silucepan.

for 1 to 2 minutes. to soften the shallots, Add the snails and cook gently

T O C O M P L E T E : Preheat the oven to 350oP.

for about 1 to 2 minutes. or just until hot. Transfer the snails. butter. and shallots to a container and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Place the minced shnlJots. tomato diamonds. bntnoise. beurre montc. and water in an ovenproof saucepan and add the snails and

P U R E E : Place the carrols in a saucepan large

roasted shallots. Place the pan in the oven and heat for about 6 minutes.

enough to hold them i n a single layer. Pour in enough ereamjusl to cover

or just until heated through. (O\'crcooking the snails will cause them to

the carrots. Bring to a simmer over medIUm heat and simmer gently for

shrink and toughen.)

FOR

THE

C A R R OT

35 to 45 minutes. or until the carrots arc completely tender. Adjust the heat as necessary so that the cream docs not scorch. Drain the carrots. pressing lightly on them to remove excess cream. Pass the carrots through a tantis (see page 73) and season to taste with salt. The carrots c.:'m be refrigerated in a covered container for up to a day. F O R T H E R O A S T E D S H A L L O T S ¡ Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Meanwhile. reheat the carrot puree in a pan over low heat and season with salt to taste. Rewarm the sauce ilnd season with salt and pepper. When the snails are warm. remove the pan from the oven and stir in the parsley and salt 10 taste. Place 2 to 3 tablespoons of sauce in each serving bowl. Form a qucnelle (see page 274), a small oval scoop. of carrot I)UTCe (dip the

Lightly coat the shallots with oil nnd plnce on a sheet of aluminum

spoon in hot water before forming each quenclle for a smoother shnpe).

foil. Sprinklewilh salt and seal the foil to make a packet. Place the packet

place the quenellc to one Side of the center of the bowl. and lean a

in the oven nnd roast for about I hour. or until the shallots arc tender.

crouton against the quenelle. placing it in the center of the plate. Repeat

Remove the shallots from the oven and let cool until they nrc easy to handle. Peel the shal1ols. Remove the outer layers and discard. Cut the centers into wedges thnt arc smaller than the snails, F O R T H E S AU C E

Heat a film of canoln all in a medium saucepan over

with the remaining bowls. Spoon 6 snni1s. along with some of the vegetable gnrnishes and the sauce In the pan. alongside each crouton. Sprinkle with the herb salad. P I C T U U O O N PAGl

1 00

MAK(ďż˝ 6

S E R V I N GS

medium heat. Add the carrots and turnips and saute for 2 to 3 minutes. or until lightly car.lmehzed. Add the garlic and cook. stirring. ror I minute. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and port. then simmer for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until the liquid has evaporated and the pan i s dry. Meanwhile. dram the marrow and cut it into 1/4 - ineh dIce. There should be about 113 cup. Place the bone marrow and shallots in a medium snucepan nnd cook ovcr low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. or untIl the shallots arc transluccnt. Stir in the flour and cook for another 2 minutes. \Vhile the mnrrow and shallots arc cooking. heat the stoekand water in i\ small saucepan until hot. Add the hot stock and water to the carrots and turnips and simmer for a minute to incorporate the ingredients. \VlllSk the carrots. turnips. and stock into the marrow and shallots. Add the chervil. parsley. tarragon. and bay leaf and sumner for 10 minutes to infuse the sauce with the flavor of the herbs. If the sauce

FIHI Course

99


Snnlls nl'O now COlnnlOl'c lnlly cult lvatcd In CalltOl'lllo, giving us 0 new Ingl'cdlent to wOI'l<

,vU h , I w(l ntcd to utle therll In 0 wily thot W081\'( �(cl'eotyplenl hut nlHo ,,'usn't so tOl' own,)'

trOI11 t.'ndillonni prcplU'lltlons ns to be conlrived 01' eontllHln�, In t h i s rricosI'lcc, t h eY'l'e

sen:ed ,,'J I l l ronated shallots, n rcd wln c souce nlnde wllh bone nlOl'l'OW t h o t oddH a I'lch

novOl' 10 t h e dlfOih, crouton:'!, and n sweet Clll'rOI purce,

son ked rOJ" 01 lenAt

12

Note t h n t the 1l10l'row needs to be

hourH ,

F.kou�e 0 1 hco.goh, POOl! 98

1 00

The F r e n c h l o u n d r y C o o k b o o k


F0 i e

G

ra S

The great thing about foie graB is that it'.

foie gras. I learned how to clcan it. and I learned just when to selVe it and

faie gr<ls-likc the great thing about caviar is that it's caviar. You don't

how to serve it. Foie gras should sit for a day after you cook it so that the

have to do an)1hing to it. It's a luxury on its own. and your job is to try

flavors have a chance to mature together. t o become whole.

to make it show what it really is. Don', be afraid of it. It is probably one

Foic gras is best served cold and barely cooked. Cold. it has much

of the easiest things to prepare well at home. because what you will buy

more body and character to it and shows off its rich creamy texture.

is the same quality as what 1 buy. It's available from only two

That's why I love the foie was au torchon. Most people in America like it

companies in the United States-one in the Hudson Valley. New York;

hot: certainly more foie gras is served hot here than served cold,

onc in Sonoma County. California (see Sources. page 3 1 5)-50 you're going to get a consistent product.

Torchon means "dish tower' in French. and the dish takes its name from the fact that the foie gras pieces are wrapped in a cloth (we use

The only thing you really have to know about faie gras to cook it well

several layers of cheesecloth) into a thick cylinder and then quickly

is that it's composed almost entirely of fat. It has so much rat in it that

poachcd. When 1 serve foie gras au torchon, I always overindulge

'

you saute it in a dry pan. If it gets too hot. you won I have anything left,

somebody with an extra-thick piece to make a point-too often people

because all the fat will have melted, I've poached it and forgotten it until

are served a minuscule slice of fOle brt'as that's gray. 111at's what many

someone asked, "Hey, what's this floating in the stock?"

people think foie gras is. My aim is to make the torchon a benchmark of

When I left for France in 1984. thcre was no fresh foie STas in thc

what foie b'ras should be.

United States. Nobody was raiSing geese or ducks for it, and it W,IS illegal

Foie gras should be bright and flesh-colored, verging on pink. It

to import uncooked foie gras. so my first introduction to raw foie was

oxidizes very quickly and turns gray. A torchon can be as much as a week

was in France. If I hadn't learned about it In France. I still wouldn't

old, and the oxidation will be deeper. but we cut that part off before

really know how to prepare it. They sClVed it in every restaurant I worked

serving it. Cooks think they can't throw foie gras away because it's so

m. so it was exciting to come back in 1985 nnd fmd It available here

ex-pensive, and the result IS that they sero'e bad foie gras. Whcn that

through Ariane Dabruin's new firm. O¡Artagnan.

happens. people wonder what the fuss is all about and why foie gras is so

Foie gras is something that should be left alone. It should be

expcnsive.

minimally garnished. You eat it because you like the tnsle and feel offoie

Cold foie gras-a three-quarter- inch slice of the torchon with some

gras. Foie gras on toast is perfect. FOle b'Tas with a poached pear. a fig. a

brioche and some pickled Bing cherries-is really the ideal way to sen'e

truffle-it's almost impossible to go wrong.

it. It's one of those foods 1 just want to hold in my mouth and let it meh

I n France, I learned to marinate foie gras with nine grams of salt.

and feel it. It's a very sensual thlllg.

one gram of sugar. and one gram of pepper per five hundred grams of Oppo,;le TOfchon' hongln'l ln Q cooler

First COU'$ďż˝ 103


P R E P AR A T I O N S

T E CH N I Q U E S

Foie gras is graded "A.� "B." and He:' based on size and the amount of

TORCH O N :

imperfections and bruises. I recommend using only As and Bs. AnA foie

poached for about ninety seconds. is one of the best ways to prepare foie

This cylinder of foie gras. wrapped in cheesccloth and

gras. usually about a pound and a quarter to a pound and three quarters.

gras. The shon cooking time means vcry little fat will cook oul. giving

which will serve four to six people. costs fifty to seventy-five dollars: so

you a high yield from what is an expensive ingredient. Second. the

for fifty or more dollars. you can have an cxtraordinary experience.

marinating and quick cooking-you're basically just melting pieces back

The ducks raised here for foie gras arc either moulard or muscovy. I usc moulard foie gras rather than muscovy. because I've found that it holds up better in cooking and results in a higheryield,

together again-result in a creamy. buttery fattiness that I love. It·s so lightly cooked. you're ahnosL eating raw foie gras. FRE E Z ER. CURE D ·

This is essentially the samc preparation as the

torchon. but instead ofcookingthe foie gras in waler. we " cook" it in the

I tell people to think of foie grasas Play-Doh. Whenyou're

freezer. We hang it for three months and allow dehydration (the same

cleaning it. don't be afraid you're going to make a mistake, because you

thing that causes freeler burn) to eure the foic gras. It works well. but it's

CLEAN I N G :

can always put it back together. You cut it. you scrape it. you get as many

not a method for people in a hur!)'.

veins out of it as possible. and then you mold it back together again. It

P U RE E D :

takes some hands-on learning to know where the veins arc. how to open

labor- intensive. with lots of cooking and wcighting. For our "terrine."

the foie up to expose the primal)' vein. and then how to eliminate the

we simply collecl our foie gras scraps. marinate them. roll them in cheesecloth. and cook them like the torchon: we then press the foic gras

secondary ones. For cold preparations. marinate thc foie gras with salt.

through a tamis to remove the veins and pipe it into small terrine molds.

sugar. and finely ground pepper (we pulverize whole peppercorns in a

This is a great way to usc scraps of foie gras. and for home cooks who

MARl NATI NG

spice grinder). For the torehon. we usc sci rose. or pink salt. which

don't want to clean the veins one by one. the method is very easy. These

contains nitrites. to delay oxidation and help the color. I f you usc a wine

miniature terrines make wonderful gifts at Christmastime.

or spirit in your marinade. cook off the alcohol first. or it will cook your

P OACH E O :

foie gras. Some people like to marinate foie gras in port: if you do. usc

result. We poach foic gras in its own Cat-a technique called confit-and

white port to avoid staining the foie gras.

serve it whole. This is another high -yield technique. The denSity of thc

S E AS O N I NG

For hot preparations. usc salt and pepper. It·s important

to score the foie gras about a sixteenth oC an inch on all surfaces to allow the salt .md pepper to penetrate the liver.

104

Pureed foic brras is as close as wc get to a tcrrinc. Terrines arc

T h e Fre n c h L o u n d r y C o o k b o o k

We poach foie gras in various liquids. cach with a differcnt

fat and the foie are similar so the liver cooks without losing ;tny of its fat or absorbing the cooking fat. Cooking it in fat also inhibits oxidation. We make foie Gras carpaccio by cutting thin slices of raw fOle gras


Oppaltlf,

l�h lob�l oj moul0.d duel fo,� g'Ol,

"ghl

.olh..g

lh� Io-cho..

Abo��,

I�h

Whol� Roo" ed MouLo.d Dud. fole G'Ol.

page 1 10, r;ghl

lo.chOf' .�od1 Io pOoch

and spooning some hot truffle juice over them just before serving, in

could add anything-shallots. rosemary. bay leaf. or just salt and pcpper.

effect, poaching the foie geas it In. minute,

It's delicious.

Foie geas poached whole in truffle stock results in a lower yield

Whole roasting and poaching IS good for people who love the pure

than a cold preparation like the torchon. but the truffle flavor is worth

tastc of foie gras and don't need thc crispy scared exterior of sautl:ed

the exchange. Also. it's very simple

foie gras.

10

do: Score the foie gras on all

sides, season it with salt and pepper. and put it In an carthenware dish,

SAUTE E D:

or in a pot, whatever you have. The only thing you need to be careful

going to saute it. This is paramount. Many chefs train their staff to cut

You've got to cut foie gras to the right thickness if you're

about is making sure you have it in a big enough vessel so that you can

foie gT3S too thin, saying. "Be careful. foie gras is really expenSive. � But

get it out when it's cooked, because it will be very soft and fragile.

you necd the propcr thickness-three quarters of an inch to I inch-for

almost molten.

the three textures you want

At the restaurant, we bring truffle stock (a mushroom stock that we've poached truffles in. see page 87) to a boil ::md then pour it over the

III

pcrfectly sauteed foie gras: a crisp

exterior. an almost-molten intenor, and a vcry slim center that is firm because it's still rarc.

foie gras, cover the baking dish. and put It in a 350°F oven for 12 to 15

Sauteed fOic gras serves as a primary gJrntsh in many of our dishes.

mlllutes. We remove it from the oven and let it Sit for a few minutes, then

It goes beautifully with squab-that's a classic pairing. But we also do a

shce it and serve It with some of thc broth. a little shJlIot. some chives or

roasted lobstcr With the squab spice, and the foie goes amazingly weB

chopped parsley. and chopped truffle. That's really how simple it is,

with that lobster. MonkfIsh. another siurdy fish that roasts beautifully.

Sometimes we poach it in a straight mushroom stock instead of the

is deliCIOUS wtth foie gras.

truffle stock Jnd other times we'll pOJch it inside J plastiC bJg for a really

The Hftmg of the ban on the importation mto the United States of

pure foie b'Tas taSle. Poaching is really that simple. While I was thinking

raw poultry products now allows cooks and chefs here to usc frcsh goose

about all lius poaclung of foie gras. it occurred to me that I could poach

foie gras. which is a little bigger than duck foie gras and costs about 20

it in <l bottle of Gewurl.traminer. So I tned II-it's gTeat.

percent more. The goose foie gras is creamier in texture th31l the duck

R 0ASTED

Hoasting: foie gras is another exeitlllg: way to cook the entire

li,'er. Score it. season it, scar It. and pop it

ltl

the ovcn for a few

minutes-just don't forget about It. or no one Will recognize it. Roasting is a little more tricl..)' th<ln poaching because the lobes can fall apart if you're not careful. After seanng. we add some thyme Jnd garhc but you

foie gr3s, and the taste IS fincr and not so fon\'ard, and thus it requires slightly more salt. The French L.1undry uses goose foie gras only in cold preparations-the torchon and tcrrine.


Panched M a u lard D ucI< Fale G r a s (ttl. 7'o'l"cll o n w i t h PiCli.lcd Ch Cl'l'ies

� O �

------------

1 Grode 8 moulord duck foie gros

(approximately 1 'I" pounds; see poge 1 04)

------

About 2 quarts Chicken Stock (page 226), Veal Stock (page 222), or water

v.. cup baby orugulo 1 8 tiny mint leaves

Milk to cover the faie gros

PICKLED CHERRIES

Extra

2 teospoons kosher solt

24 bing cherries with stems

Gray salt and freshly ground block pepper

II.. teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

'h cup red wine vinegor

1 2 to 18 brioche Croutons (page 238)

'I.. teaspoon sugar

II.. cup water

Ih� teaspoon pink salt (see Sources, page 3 1 5)

1/.. cup sugar

ti

virgin olive oil

(op onol)

T

he torchon is my favorite way to serve foie gras cold-it's almost an

foie gras apart to sec the vein clearly. Turn your knife at a 45-degree

overindulgencc. \Vc form the torchon by placing the foie b'Tas on

angle and make an outward cut at each side of the vcin to butterfly the

cheesecloth and wrapping it into a tight cylinder. then poaching it for

foie gras. Cut far enough to open the folds and expose the interior of the

lcss than two minutes. The torchon is not difficult to make. but it must

liver. Use your fingers and knife to remove the primary vein.

be prepared over a four-day period. Once made. it can be refrigcrated for up to one wcek.

There arc smaller veins throughout the foie gras; the marc you remove. the more refined the finished torchon will bc. Scrapeacross the foie gras with a knife. working from one side of the lobe to the other.

1 : S O A K I N G T H E F O I E G RA S : Rinse the foie gras under cold

removing all the veins. (This can be a painstaking task. but the result is

water; pat dry with paper towels. Place it in an airtight container and

worth it.) Do not worry about the amount of scrapingyou do. but leave

cover with milk. Cover and refrigerate overnight. or up to 24 hours. to

the outside of the foie gras intact. Think of the liver as a picce of Play­

DAY

draw out some of the blood.

Doh. No matter how much you cut and scrape the inside. you will be able

DAY 2: C L E A N I N G A N D M A R I N AT I N G T H E F o r E G R A S : Remove

to reform the lobe.

the foie gras from the milk. rinse. and pat dry. Cover it with a damp towel

Cut away and discard any bruised areas (if left. they w:ill cause

and let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes. (It will be easier to

discoloring in the final dish). Once the foie gras is cleaned. fold over the

work with if the foie gras is not icc-cold.)

sides and return it to an approximation of its original shape.

F O I E G R A S ' Pull apart the two lobes. Keep one

F O R T H E S M A L L LO 8 E : Again. with your fingers. follow the line of the

covered with the towel while you work on the other. Remove any

primary vein on the bottom of the lobe and pull the lobe open. The vein

membranes from the outside of the foie gras. To butterfly the large lobe:

should be close to the surface. As with the large lobe. usc a knife to

TO

106

CLEAN T H E

Locate the start of the primary vein at one end of the underside of the

scrape and remove anyveins and bruises. As before. form it back into its

lobe. Slice through the lobe to the vein. following its path and pullingthe

original shape.

The F rench L o u n d r y C o o k b o o k


TO M A R I N AT E T H E F O I E G RA S : Mix the kosher salt, white pepper,

reshape the log into its original shape after it has poached.)

sugar, and pink salt. if using. together. Press the foie gras into a

Bring enough stock or water to cover the foie gras to a simmer in a

container in an even layer l/. to 1 inch thick. Sprinkle and press half of

wide pot. Place the torchon in the simmering liquid and poach for 90

the marinating mixture over and into the liver. Flip the foie gras and

seconds. Immediately remove the torehon to an icc-water bath to cool.

repeat on the other side with the remaining marinating mix. Press a

The foie gras will have lost volume (it loses fat in the poaching) and

piece of plastic wrap directly against the foie gras and enclose the

must be re-formed. Compress the torchon (still in the cheesecloth) in a

container completely in more plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 21 hours.

thin cotton dish towel. Twist and tie the ends of the towel. returning the

OAY

3:

FOR M I N G.

COOK ING.

AND

HANG I N G THE TORCHON:

liver to the original density and pressing out excess fat. Tic the ends of

Remove the liver from the container. place it on a piece of parchment

the towel with string and hang the torchon from a shelf in the

paper. and break it up as necessary to form a loaf about 6 inches long and

refrigerator overnight.

31h inches wide. Using the parchment. roll the foie gras into a log.

F O R T H E P I C K L E D C H E R R I E S ; If you prefer your chernes pitted.

twisting and squeezing the ends of the parchment paper to help compact

carefully remove the pits through the bottom of the cherries. keeping

the foie brras.

the stems intact. One way to accomplish this is by bending a tine of an

Unwrap the foie gras. discard the paper. and transfer tbe log to a piece of cheesecloth about I foot wide by 2 feet long. placing it along a

old fork a t a 90-degree angle and using it to make a hole in the bOltom of the cherry to loosen and remove the pit.

short end of the cheesecloth. Rolling it away from you, roll it up in the

Place the cherries. vinegar. water. and sugar in a saucepan and

cheesecloth into a tight log. again tWisting the ends as you roll to force

bring to a simmer. Immediately remove from the heat. Cool the

the foie gras into a compact log. If possible. have a second person hold

cherries. then refrigerate them in the pickling liquid for a few hours. or

the end of the cheesecloth flat on the work surface as you roll (see the

up to several days.

photograph on page 104).

DAY

4 : Just before serving. remove the towcl and cheesecloth from the

Loop a length of string around your index finger. With the same

torchon. You will sec that the outside of it is gray and oxidized. Cut the

hand. hold one end of the cheesecloth tightly and wtnd the stringaround

ends from the log. Slice the foie gras into six 'I.. -inch slices. Usc a round

the end of the foie gras. Continue wrapptng the string about

cutter (about 2 '1.. inches) to cut away the darkened exterior of the torchon.

1/4 inch into the foie gras; this will help force the foie gras to compress

Place a slice at torehon on each plate. Stack 4 cherries on the side of

into a tight roll. Tie a knot around the cheesecloth. Repeat the procedure

each slice of foie gras. Toss the arugula and mint leaves With a little olive

on the other end. If you have rolled and tied the torchon tightly enough.

all. Garnish each plate with a small stack of greens and sprinkle with

you will see bits of the foie gras being forced through the cheesecloth

gray salt and pepper. Serve with the croutons on the side.

(sec the photograph on page 105). Tie three pieces of string equally

P I C T U R l O ON PA G ÂŁ

1 08

M.

... K E S 6 S l R V I N G S

spaced around the width of the torchon. (These Will be used as guides to

Flr�1 C o u r i e

107


Abov" Pooched Mou/ord Duck Fole Gro� a u Torclloll. page 1 0 6 0pP01;le GewuFl'romlner-Pooched Mou/ord Duck. Fole Gro�. poge / 1 /

108

The French laundry Cookboak


Firsl Course

\09


'''' h o l e Ronsted M a u l a r d D u c k Foic G r a s w i t h A p p l e s u n d B l oci, 'rrufCles

1 Grade A moulord duck foie gras

3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, cut into

eighths, and trimmed or turned (sec page 203)

(approximately 1 11. pounds; see page 1 04) Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper 5 doves gorlic, unpeeled, lightly crushed 1 small bunch thyme (lh ounce)

I

golf boll-size block truffle, brushed of dirt under worm water and cut into chunks

I teaspoon chopped chives Gray solt

O

ne main reason for cooking a foie gras whole is the presentation.

bottom. about 4 minutes: adjust the heat a s necessary. Turn the faie gras

It's very exciting to bring into your dining room an entire scared

over. add the garlic cloves. and brown the boltom. about

and roasted foie. and then to slice it foryour guests. As with most foie gras

3 minutes.

Place the thyme sprigs on top of the foie gras and place it in the oven

preparations. this is very easy to make. Awhole foie brras will serve six. but

for 4 to 5 minutes. When it is done. it will still feel slightly soft to the

it's so good you might just want to make it for four to truly IOdulgc-which

touch. like a rare steak. Remove the foie gras from the oven and let rest

is the point. 1 think. of foie gras.

in the pan for 3 to <1 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 475°F.

skillet. Add the apple pieces and saute over medium heat. tOSSing them

While the foie gras is cooking. reheat the rendered fat in the first

Trim a I-inch piece from the tip of the foie gras and heat it slowly in

occasionally. for about 5 minutes. or until they are cooked through and

a large skillet to render about I tablespoon of fat. Remove the piece of

lightly browned. Add the truffle pieces and cook over low heat for

cooked foie gras (it's a snack for the cook) and reserve the fat i n the pan. Score the smooth rounded side of the foie gras in a crosshatch pattern about

VII inch deep. Sprinkle both sides generously with kosher

salt and pepper. Heat a heavy ovenproof straight-sided saute pan over high heat. Add

another 3 to 1 minutes. Stir in the chives. Place the apples and truffles in a serving bowl. Present the whole foie gras at the table. with the apple and truffle garnish. Then remove the foie gras from the pan and cut crosswise into slices about

fat in the skillet over each piece. and garnish with the apples and

the side of the pan to brown its sides. until it is well browned on the

truffles. SprinkJe with fleur de sci and serve. PICTUR(O

1 10

liz inch thick. Arrange on serving plates. spoon a little of the

the foie gras. scored side down. and saute. moving the foie gras against

The French L o u n d r y C o okbook

ON

PAG[

1 05

M A K ÂŁ S 6 S E R V I N GS


Gcwi.\!· z t ra I n i n Cl·-Poached rvl o u l n l'd Ducl< FOie Gros w i t h Gewiirztl' a m i n e r J e l l y

1 Grode A moulord duck foie gros

One 750-ml bottle Gewumtaminer

(approximately 1 V" pounds; see poge 1 04) DRY MARINADE

1 cup waler

l lh gelotin sheets (see Sources, page 31 5),

2 teaspoons kosher soh

soaked in cold woter to sohen

V" teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Gray salt

1/" teaspoon sugar

Freshly ground block pepper

1/2 teaspoon pink salt (see Sources, page 315)

Brioche Croutons (page 238)

(optional)

ecause foie gras is so rich, I don't like it with the traditional

the liquid until a thermometer reads HOOF. (about 4 minutes). Turn the

sweet wines that often accompany it. such as Sauternes. I prefer

pieces over and continue to heat until the temperature is 1 70°F. Tum

a wine that introduces a counterpoint to that richness. such as a

over a final time and heat until the reading is 1 80°F. Remove the pOI

Gewurztraminer. ThiS dish takes that appreciation a step funher by

from the heat and allow the foie gras to remain in the pan for 4 minutes.

B

poaching the foie brras in the wme. then clarifying thc wine, gelling it.

(It is important to cook the foie brras gently to reduce the loss of fat.

:md serving it as an accompaniment. Once it is gelled and stirred. the

wh,ich would result 111 a reduced yield.)

white wine takes on the appearance of cmshed ICC. so, for a dramatic

Remove the lobes from the pot and place them in a container. Pour

presentation. I serve the cold slices of wine- poached foie gras on shaved

the poaching liquid over the foie b'Tas. cover the container. and

ice alongside a bowl of the gelled Ge\\ilrztramincr. ThiS must be

refrigerate overnight.

prepared over a three- day period.

DAY 3' Remove the fat that has solidified at the top of the poaching liquid and discard. Remove the fOle gras from the liquid and measure out and

DAY

1

M A R I N A T I N G T H E F O I E G R A S , Rinse the foie gras undercold

water. Pull apart the lobes and use your fingers to remove excess fat from the bottom of the small lobe (a towel is helpful In gripping the fat).

reserve I cup oCthe liqUid for the jelly. Return the foie gras to the liquid remaining lJl the container and refrigerate. Squeeze the gelatlJl sheets to remove the water and place in a metal

Mix the ingredients together. Sprinkle

bowl. Place the bowl over hot water and stir until the gelatin is dissolved.

them in an even layer on all sides of the two lobes. Place the foie gras In

Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk into the reserved poaching

a covered container and refrigerate overnight.

hquid. Place the bowl m the refrigerator for at least 2 hours for the jelly

FOR THE

DAY

2

DRY MARINADE

Wrap the lobes of fOle b'Tas in separate pieces of cheesecloth . Tic

to set.

each end snugly with a I>leee of tWlnc. but do not squeeze the foie b'Tas: you

TO C O M P L E T E

want to maintain the natural shape of the pieces.

hot knife (heated under hot water and dried) to cut il into 1/3- ineh slices.

Remove the fOle gras from the cheesecloth and use a

Place the wrapped pieces of foic gras in a pot top side up with

Arrange the slices on a platter. Stir the jelly to break it up. spoon 1I into

the Gewul7.traminer and water. The liqUId should come about halfway up

a small seIVing bowl. ;'Ind seIVe with gray salt. pepper. and the croutons.

the foie gras. Place the pot over low- to- medium hcat and slowly heat

P I( T U R [ O

ON

PAG( 1 0 9

M A It £ S 1 6 � l I C ( S o r f O I t G R A S

F i nt Coune

III


" T O N G U E

I N

C H E E K "

B r u i s e d B e e t Cheeks a n d Venl Tongue ,vith Baby Lcel<s a n d Horseradish C l'CEl ll1

� o �

-----------------

BEEF

2

-----------------

IIJ cup corral, cut into lh-inch mirepoix

C H EE KS

beef cheeks, (about 1 '/" pounds each)

1 recipe Red Wine Marinade (page 190)

'/" cup creme fraiche, whipped

8 baby leeks (or small scallions if leeks are

(see page 203)

unavailable)

V3 cup leek (white and light green ports only),

V2 cup baby watercress, baby red oak leaf,

cut into Ill-inch mJrepoix (see page 203)

Conola oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 doves garlic, peeled

Flour for dusting

2 sprigs thyme

2 leaspoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cups Veol Stock (poge 222)

112 teaspoon kosher salt

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish

3'12 cups White Veol Stock (page 223),

4 pie<:es Tomalo Confil (page 64), wormed

or mache

briefly in the oven

Chicken Stock (page 226), or woter

VEAL TONGUE

2 veol tongues (about 6 to 8 ounces each)

Dried horseradish (page 233)

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2/3 cup onions, cut into 1f2-inch mirepoilt (see poge 203)

"

T

ongue in cheek" is a collective creation. J wanted to make a

impurities that rise to the top, You should have about I cup of marinade.

braiscd beef cheek sabd. a first course that had a lot of character

Remove from the heat.

and also rcflected the familiar pairing of roast beef and horseradish.

Coat the bottom of a large pot with 1!8 inch of oil (usc a large pot and

Beef cheek is very succulent because of its fat content. The original dish

ample oil so that the heat doesn't decrease as the meat is added) and heat

was just the braised beef cheek salad. horseradish greens. and eonCit of

over high heat. Pat the cheeks dry with paper towels. season on both

tomato. But we had already come up with a lot of paired items-the

sides with salt and pepper, and dust with flour. shaking off the excess.

"Bacon and Eggs." "Oysters and Pearls." "Coffee and Donuts"-and

Add the meat to the pot. adjusting the heat as necessary so that the oil

Stephen Durfee. now the pastry chef. said. ,\Vhy don't we use tongue?"'

stays hot but the meat doesn't burn. Brown the cheeks for 2 to 3 minutes

It's logical. not just word play: Tongue comes from the same part of the

on each side. or until well browned and crusty. Remove the meat from

animal. and the flavors are right. This wasn't on the first menu. but it

the fat and place in a small roasting pan: the pieces should fit snugly in

quickly became one of our Signature dishes,

one layer.

Bath the tongues and the cheeks can be made scveral days in

Drain the fat from the pot. add the vegetables from the marinade.

advance if stored properly: refrigerated. with the tongue submerged in

and saute them over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the

its cooking liquid and the cheeks wrapped tightly in plastic.

sauteed vegetables over the meat and add the reserved marinade and the veal stock. Add water as necessary to cover the meat with liquid. Bring

F O R T H E B E E F C H E EKS:

Trim the top flap of meat from the cheeks as

Cover the meat with a parchment lid (see page 190). transfer to the

of silverskin running through the meat). Place the pieces of meat in one

oyen. and cook for 3112 to 4 hours. until the meat is very tender. Let the

layer in a tight-fitting container. Pour the marinade over and around the

meat rest in the liquid for 30 minutes. which will allow the meat to

meat. cover. and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Remove the meat from the marinade. Strain the marinade into a ' pot. reserving the vegetables, Bring the marinade to a bail and skim the

1 12

the liquid to a simmer on top of the stove.

well as the silverskin from the bottom (there is no need to trim the piece

The French L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

reabsorb part of the liquid it released during cool;ng. M EA N W H I L E,

FOR THE VEAL TONGUES:

Place the tongues in an

ovenproof pot and add the vegetables. garlic. thyme. salt. stock. and vinegar. Add a Httle water if necessary so that they just float. Bring the


liquid to a simmer (the tongues will swell. so add more water if

Cut the root ends from the leeks and trim the tops. Tie them into a

necessary). covcr with a parchmcnt lid. and braise the tongucs in the

bundle with string. Cook the leeks in boiling salted water for about

oven for about 4 hours. until very tendcr and the sldn pcels off casily. Peel the tongues while still hot. Strain thc stock into a container

3 minutes. or until they arc tender. Remove the bundle to an icc-water

bath to cool. and drain them when they are cold.

(discarding the solids) and add the peeled tongues. They will keep for

TO C O M P U T E :

several days in the refrigerator oryou can freeze them. in the liquid.

cut each one against the grain into 6 slices. Trim the pieces of fat from

To e 0 NT I N U E

Remove the cheeks from the braising liquid. Wrilp and

refrigerate them for il few hours. until firm. or for up to 2 days. Strain the

Tnm the edges of the cold cheeks to square them. then

the cold tonb'l.le and cut each one starting at the base. into 4 slices. about 1/4 inch thick.

liquid (discilrding the solids) into a tall narrow contamcr (it will be casier

Stack the slices of cheek and tongue in four ponions. starting and

to rcmove the fat Ihill accumulatcs at the top) and let stand for about

ending with slices of cheek. Place the Slacks in a pOI or microwave

20 minutes. Remove the fat that has risen to the surface and strain the

container with the reserved braising liquid. Cover the pot and reheat over

braiSing liquid several timcs through a chinois (sce page 'l3). until the

medium heat. or cover with plastic wrap and reheat in the microwavc.

chinois remains clean aher straining. (Straining the braising liquid

Toss the grecns with the oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

before reducing it rather than afterwill give you a higher yield. as any meat

Rewarm the leeks 10 the microwave or in a saucepan with a little water.

particles left in the liquid would absorb some of the liquid as it reduced.)

Reheat the sauce.

There should be about 2 cups of strained bralsmg liquid. Set aside

Place a spoonful of sauce in the middle of each pl:tte and place a

112 cup to rewarm the meat before serving. Bring the remaining braising

porllon of tongue and check on the sauce. Arrange 2 baby leeks on top of

liquid to a simmcr in a saucepan and reduce to about I cup. Add all but

each and top with a piece of tomato confit. Drizzle wlIh a little more

I;' teaspoon of the horseradish and continue to reduce ulltil it has a

sauce. Place a quenclle (sec page 274). or small oval scoop. of the

saucc consistency: there WIll be about '/4 cup. Strain the sauce and

horseradish cream over the tomato and finish with the lettuces. Grind

discard the horseradIsh.

black pepper over the dish and spnnkle with dried horseradish.

Fold the reserved 1/4 teaspoon horseradish into the cremc fraiche

", ,, 1( [ 5 4 5 ( Jl V ' ''' G S

and rdrigerate.

F i r s t C O \.l n e

113


1 14

The French Laundry Cookbook


The

I m portance

of Staff

Meal

Because the South Florida restaurant business was seasonal. I left the Yacht Club and headed north in the summer t o Newport, then Narragansett, Rhode Island, to look for work. My second year there. I met Roland Henin on the beach i n Narragansett. H e was

But. even more important. I learned how to make the vegetable side

chef at a place called the Dunes Club. a hig hotel: he commanded a kitchen

dishes. how to blanch a green bean. how to make a gratin of cauliflower.

the size of a football field with a crew of forty cooks. and he needed someone

how not to overcook broccoli. At the yacht club. I was used to adding a

to cook stafr meal.

chemical oxidant that kept the vegetables bright. 1 thought that's how

Henin was from Lyon. the gastronomic capital of the Western world.

everyone did it. Then Henin told me about the proper amount of water.

He W:lS an old-school French guy. trained In the European apprentice

and the proper amount of salt in that water. and how to cook and cool the

system. There waS Zeus. and there was Roland. god of cooking. He knew

vegetable. This was e:\1raordinary to me. absolutely unique.

everything. He taught me how to peel a tomato. how to cook a green

Henin taught me how to make a rou."\':. Very. very. very important.

vegetable properly. things no onc had taken the time to show me before.

How to make sauces. reduction sauces. and the clarification process that

He taught me how to mJke stock. how to roast and braise.

happens during reduction. The real fundamentals of cooking.

The stafr mCJI cook is J low man in the kitchen hierarchy. You cook

Staff meal was first about the fundamentals of cooking and how to

meals from scra.ps for peoplc who work in the kitchen. But the Dunes

work with by-products. using scraps to make something tasty. eye足

Club W<lS a high-cnd kitchen .:md Henin was a classical French chef. so

appealing. and satisfying. But the message underlying that was "Can ),ou

our scraps might be the butt from a tenderloin. and with that I learned

be passIOnate about cooking at this level?- Staff mea). Only the staff sees

how to make boeuf bourguignon. We'd have the legs left over from

it. If you can make grcat food for these people. create that habit. have that

butchered chickens and with these I learned to make coq <luvin. I turned

drive. that Sincerity. and keep that with you and take it to another level in

lamb scraps into lamb navarin.

the staff meal. then someday you'Il be a great chef. Maybe.

First Course

1\5


Eric ' s Stn rr Lasagna

------ oďż˝----SAUCE

FILLING

Ih cup olive oil

\ 1/2

1/ 1 2 cups minced yellow onions

3 large eggs

pounds whole-milk ricolto

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1f2 cup chopped parsley

'h cup tomato paste

Kosher 5011 and freshly ground block pepper

8 cups cut-up peeled tomatoes (about

1 2 to 1 4 medium tomatoes,

cut into rough I-inch pieces) If.. cup chopped oregano or If.. cup plus

1 pound 10sogna noodles '/2 pound mozzarella, grated Kosher soh and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons chopped basil

FOR T H E SAUCE:

Heat the oil in a large heavy pot. Add the onions and

garlic and cook gently for 4 to 5 minutes. or until translucent. Add the

ready to assemble the lasagna.

tomato paste and cook. stirring frequently. for 1 0 minutes (the tomato

Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water according to

paste will separate from the oil and the oil will turn a vivid orange). Add

the package directions. Drain the noodles and allow them to cool

the tomatoes and stir to combine.

slightly.

The sauce can be completed on the stove top or in the oven. The

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread a thin layer (3/4 to I cup) of

oven method requires less attentIOn but a longer cooking time. For !lie

TO A S S E M B L E T H E L A S A G N A .

stove-top, simmer the sauce gently for l lh to 2 hours. stirring and

sauce over the bottom of a 9- by 13-inch baking pan. Place a layer of

scraping the bottom of the pot every 10 minutes to prevent scorching.

noodles (no more than one quarter of them) in the pan. slightly

For the oven method. preheat the oven to 325°F. Bringthc tomatoes

overlapping them. Spread half of the ricotla mi,xture evenly over the

to a simmer on top of the stove. cover the pot with a parchment lid (sec

noodles and top with another layer of noodles. Reserve 1 cup of the

page 190). and place the pot in the oven for 3 to 4 hours. (The staff

remaining sauce and spread the rest over the noodles. completely

generally prefers the oven method; because of the indirect. even heat.

covering them. Arrange another layer of noodles on top and cover with

the sauce requires little attention. allowing them to work on other preps

the remaining ricotta mi.xturc. Top with a final layer of noodles and

for the restaurant.)

spoon the reserved sauce over them. Toss the grated mozzarella with salt

When the sauce is done. it should be thick. slightly chun....}. and reduced to about 1 quart. Add the oregano and let cool to room temperature (about I hour) before assembling the lasagna. M E A N W H I L E, F O R T H E F I L L I N G ;

In a large oowl. whisk together thc

ricolta and eggs until completely blended. Add the parsley and salt and

1 16

pepper to taste and mix until well combined. Refrigerate until you are

The French Laundry Cookbook

and pepper to taste (to give the cheese more navor) and sprinkle it over the top. Bake for 45 minutes to I hour. or until the mozzarella is a spotted golden grown and the lasagna is hot throughout. M A I( E S A B O u t 9 S ( R V I N G S


Storr

D re s s i n g r _ --_ __ __ __ __ --Q

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 112 teaspoons chopped

shollots

2 tablespoons plus I teaspoon Dijon mustord

II" cup balsamic vinegar 1 large egg yolk 2 cups conolo oil Kosher soIt and freshly ground block pepper

Place the garlic. shallots. mustard. and vinegar in a blender and blend until well combined. Add the egg yolk and blend again. With tbe machine running. slowly drizzle in the oil until the dressing is thick and emulsiried. Season to taste with salt and pepper. You can refrigerate it in a covered container for I week. M A IC[ S A a O U T 2 c u p s


A

passion

for

fish

My favorite food to work with is the most

versatile: fish. Fish offers a greater variety of textures and flavors than any other protein. It also has less fat. It's the best �pcdeslal" for garnishes. It's visually appealing. and it makes a better final impression and impact than meat and poultry. Offal and braised foods arc what ( like to eat most of all. and

I like to cook them too, but fish is almost alive Cor me when I cook it.

The quality of the fish you buy is probably the most critical factor in how good the finished dish will be. I feel very lucl), to have the purveyors I do. The seafood they send me is extraordinary. 1 get sea bass and halibut and cod so fresh that. at the right angle. you can sec a rainbow playing across the flesh. We marvel al it. I get forty black bass that are all the same size. which is critical to the dishes at the French Laundry. The scallops are still twitching. because they were practically just shucked and haven't settled down. For a cook. that's an exciting thing to sec. Unlike meat and poultry. fish is not regulated for quality and it's not inspected. which is why quality ranges are huge. How can you know when fish wasn', handled right? Was it dumped on the boat, is it bruised and beaten up? How was it caught-did it drown in a net. its gills fillingwith water.

I I

its flesh becoming waterlogged? Once caught. was it properly Iced? My fish purveyors are sticklers ahout how their fish is handled. And the handling only starts o n their end. Our fish i s packed in icc or seaweed and stored in ourwalk-IO cooler t o the same position it swims-not haphazardly. and not on its side. The flesh is too easily damaged. This is what

I mean

by treatingyour products with respect. Most people now know the basics in evaluating whole fish for freshness: The fish should have clear. protuberant eyes :md clastic skin and flesh (which should spring back when you touch it. not leave an imprinl). and it shou1d smell fresh. To judge a fillet, use the same criteria-color. smell. and touch. Store whole fish in plenty of icc. makmg sure that the water can dram off as the tee melts: the chlorine in waterc.. n stress the flesh of the fish. Once the fish has been butchered (never morc than a day ahead of cookmg) or ifyou\'e bought steaks or fillets. store the fish on. but not in. icc: the water could seep lOto the flesh and affect the texture and cookmg. Always keep 1 11 mind how delicate fish is. Cradle it like a child.

Fish

121


'1' H E

122

A C C I D E N T A L

The F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

l" I S H M O N G E R :

I N G R I D

B E N G I S


You hear the nome Ingrid a lot in the French

for twenty more pounds. Ingrid S?id, "You

product. There is a little community of souls

Laundry kitchen. Ingrid, the Scallop Lady. Or

wont twenty pounds, go pick them yourself."

here. I don't fox that stuH. We talk on the

Thomas will ask one of his brigade, "How are

They asked, "Can you send us lobster?"

phone. We talk about fish, we talk about what

Ingrid's lobsters?" Everyone knows Ingrid, the

Ingrid said her friends on the island were

fish is coming in. It can be a wonderful

Moine fishmonger. What they don't know,

all fishermen and many caught lobster.

however, is that she hos been a Fulbright

Balducci's said, "Good, we'll toke a hundred

scholar for the post three years, spending most

pounds." Ingrid didn't have the cosh to pay for

"community of souls" in Stonington. Once she

of each year in Russia, writing and teaching

thot kind of order, so she canvinced Balducci's

sent Thamos the halibut he'd ordered, and

English at the State University of St. Petersburg.

to wire the money the next day, and bought

also a videotape of the fish being caught,

For a brief time, in the 1 970s, she was a

the lobsters from the fishermen with it

which he played on Rakel's video screen while

famous author, having penned the controversial

Ingrid was now a purveyor.

tract on human sexuality called Combat ;n the

Ingrid explains that the waters around the

Erogenous Zone, and a few years later a novel.

exchange of information. H Ingrid involves her chefs In that

it was being served. Ingrid can step out the front door of her

archipelago in Stonington, Moine, where she

hillside home, gaze down at the three hundred

lives are absolutely clean and pocked with

boots in the harbor, and say to

nutrients, a perfect environment for fish of all

only slight exoggeration, "You're looking at

kinds. She sells only the best, and the

the American seafood industry." The village

immigrants shortly after World War II, Ingrid

fishermen she buys from know this and set

itself still seems to exist in the nineteenth

moved to Moine in the late 1 970s to write, but

aside their best for her.

century. And because of the extraordinarily

"The seafood business keeps me on this earth," she says. An intense intellectual born to Russian

she published nothing. In the mid-1 980s, dirt-

When a trendy Manhattan restaurant

0

visitor, with

clean, nutrient-rich waters, that fish is some of

poor, she began to forage wild mushrooms

recently asked her to fox what she hod that

the greatest in the world, and it provides a

with hopes of selling them. She sent off a load

week, she refused. ''I'm not just selling you

livellhood for writer Ingrid Bengis, who has

of chonterelles to Balducci's in Manhattan.

seafood," she explained to me. "There is a

raised fishmongering to a level opproaching art.

They called her the next day and asked

relationship happening. This isn't about

-M.R.

Fish

123


Cooki n 9 Lob5ter

If you take lobster out of its

shell before fully cooking it. you have more conlrol over its taste and te).1ure. Steep the lobster just enough so that it will pull cleanly away from the shell. leaving the interior raw, so you can treat it like raw fish.

leeks. peas and carrots. figs. foie gras. Sometimes we slow-roast the lobster. a technique that moves it into the realm of meat. so we treat it like a meat. We season it with squab spice.

At the French Laundry. we butter-poach the lobster (sec page 125).

slow-roast il. and serve it wilh foie gras.

which loads the flavor of butter into the meat and cooks it so slowly and

All our lobster dishes begin with the same initial prepar:ttion. after

gently that the flesh remains exquisitely tender-so tender some people

which the lobster may be poached in butter. roasted. or chopped for a

think it's not completely cooked. When you cook lobster violently. the

filling. It路s essential to work with the "steeped" lobsters while they are still

mea.t seizes up and becomes tough. and you can't get any flavor into it.

hot: if they cool. the fat in the meat will congeal and the meat will be

Gentle hca.ting is the key. Butter-poached lobster is extraordinarily

difficult to remove from the shell.

P R E PA R I N G

TO S T E E P T H E l O B S T E R S :

Place the lobsters in a tight- fitting heat颅

LO B S T E R

M E AT

should be altached to the pincer and the claw meat should remain intact.

proof container. Cover with cold wa.ter. Dra.in off the water. measure it.

Still holding the claw. cr:tck the top of the shell with the heel of a

112 cup of

l...-nife. about J/. inch from the joint where the knuckle was a.ttached. You

and place it in a. large pOl. Bring the water to a boil a.nd add

white distilled vinegar for every 8 quarts of water. Pour the boiling liquid

want to go through the shell but not damage the meat. Wiggle your knife

over lobsters and let them steep for 2 minutes if using Ph-pound

to loosen and crack the shell. If the shell does not pop off. it may be

lobsters. 3 minutes for 2-pound lobsters. Remove the lobsters from the

necessary to turn the claw over and repeat the procedure. Shake the claw

hot water. but do not discard the water.

to remove the meat (if it doesn't fa.1l out. cut off the very tip of the shell

One at a time. using a towel or mbber gloves to hold the hot lobster.

and blow through the hole to release the meat).

grasp its tail a.nd twist and pull to detach it. Twist and pull off thc claws

F O R T H E K N U C K L E S ; Cut off thc lopjoinl of each knuckle. theone th:tt

a.nd return them to the hot water for 5 minutes. Reserve the bodies.

was a.ttached to the lobster's body. Use scissors to cut away the shell along

F O R T H E TAl L S:

Hold each tall flat a.nd twist the tail fan to one side;

pull off a.nd disca.rd. Use your fingers to gently push the mcat through

the smooth outside edge of tbe knuckle. Use your fingers to pry open the shell and remove the meal. Add knuckle and claw meat to fail meat. Pull back and discard the top shell of each lobster.

the tail end a.nd pull the meat out through the large opening a.t the other

FOR THE BODIES :

end. Discard the shell. Lay the tail meat on its back and cut lengthwise in

including the heads nnd nntenna. and discard. Rcmove the tomalley.

h:1lf through the middle. Remove the vein running through the top of the

roe. lungs. and the sae behind the head. You can reserve the d:trk green

meat. Lay the meat on a paper towel-lined plate or pla.tter. cover with

roe for other uses. but discard the light green tomalley. fea.thery lungs.

plastic \\Tap. and refrigera.te.

and sac. You will be left with bodies and legs. Rinse them thoroughly

FOR

124

versatile. You can combine it with many different garnishes: beets and

THE

C L AW S : After 5 minutes. remove the claws from the hot

under cold water and use immcdiately. or frceze them 10 make lobster

water. Twist off each knuckle to remove it. Hold the claw in your ha.nd

stock or consomme.

and pull down to loosen the lower pincer. Push it to either side to crack

N O T E : Avoid buying frozen lobsters or bodies: you can't be assured of

it and pun it straight off. Ideally. the cartilage from inside the claw

the quality.

T h e French l a u n d r y Cookbook


B u t l el'"Pouched i\'l a i ne Lobster w i t h Leeks.

Pomlucs M n x i nl. . u n d n

Red Beet Essence

--------�o�-

POMMES

MAX I M

I large (about 1 2 ounces) Yukon Gold poloto

LOBSTERS

2 tablespoons tomato diamonds (see page 203)

Three 1 1/2- to 2·pound lobsters, "steeped"

2 teaspoons chopped chives

V2 cup Clarified Butter (recipe foUows)

and meat removed (see page 1 24);

1 tablespoon Brunaise (page 155)

Kosher salt

reserve knuckle meat for another use

V" cup plus I tablespoon Seurre Monte (page 1 35)

RED

BEET

ESSENCE

1 pound red beets, peeled, or

1 V2 cups 8eurre Monte (page 1 35) I

cup beet juice

(from 0 health food store)

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

LEEKS

1 1/2 cups thinly sliced leek rounds

3 tablespoons Beurre Montc (poge 135)

(white and pale green ports only), washed,

'/a teaspoon red wine vinegar

blanched until tender (see Big-Pat Blanching,

Few drops of lemon juice

page 58), chilled in ice water, and drained

j

've been servmg lobster with beets and leeks for more than a decade. and the combination has gone through many evolutions. In New York.

I served it with potatoes and a fine julienne of crispy beets. In L.A., 1 did

Reheat the pommes Maxim 10 the oven for 2 to 3 minutes. Bring the beet glaze to a snmner and whisk m the beurre monte. red wine vinegar. and lemon juice.

the Jackson Pollock thing. with splatters of reduced beet Juice and a

Place a small spoonful of the beet essence on each plate. Top with a

tower of mashed potatoes. In its current form-lobster with leeks. a thin

generous tablespoon of the leek mixture. a lobster tail. and a claw. Break

sheet ofpommes Maxim. which orib'lnatcd al �'1nxim's in Paris. and a rcd

off a piece of the pommes Maxim and place it on top of the lobster.

beet essence-l think I've found the perfect interpretation.

P I C T U R ( O ON

FOR T H E POMMES MAXIM

PA(;(

M A K E S 6 S ( R V 1 N (; S

1 30

Preheat the oven to 300QF. PecLthepotato

C L A R I F I E D

B U T T E R

and slice it mto paper-thin rounds on a mandolme. Toss the rounds with the clarified butter: they should be wen coated. Arrange them on a

1 pound unsolted butter

Silpat-lined baking sheet (see Sources. page 3 1 5). o\'erlappmg the shecs by half to form a solid sheet of potatoes. or lay them in overlappmg Circles in a large heavy ovenproof sklnet.Spnnkle lightly wuh salt. Bake the potatoes for 45 to 50 mmutes. or until they arc crisp and

Some foods-eggs. scallops. potatoes-cook particularly well tn butter. But butter contains milk solids that separate from the butterfat and burn. Removing these sohds-that

IS, clarifying the

butter-allows you to

golden brown. They may not hold together eompletcly. These call be

cook with It at higher temperatures. Clartficd butter can be refrigerated

made several hours ahead and left at room temperature.

for severill weeks or frolen almost indeftnitely as long as it's in an

FOR THE RED BEET ESSENCE

If using fresh beets. juice the beets

airtight contaIner to prevent It from absorbing freeler odors.

(you should have a generous cup). Reduce the beet juice slowly in a small snucepan to 2 to 3 tablespoons of glaze. TO C O M P L E T E

Preheat the oven to 300QF.

Place the butter in a I -quart saucepan and melt it over low heat. without stirnng. Once the butter has melted. it will have separated into three

For the lobsters. bring the lobster pieces to room temperature.

layers. Skim off and discard the fO<lI11Y layer of milk solids floating on

one layer in a large saucepan and add the bcurre monte.

top. The clear yenow butter beneath it is the clarified butter. Carefully

Place them

In

They should be almost covered. Place the pan over low heat and slowly

pour it off mto a container. leaving the mil}...)' liquid behind Keep

poach the lobster In the butter for 5 to 6 minutes. just to heat through.

covered and refrigerated. or frozen.

Me:lnw}ule, ror the leeks. warm the leek rounds in a saucepan. Add the tomato diamonds. chIves, brunDlse. and beurre monte. Season With salt and white pepper to taste and keep warm.

P I C T U R E D ON P A C l

1 29

MAKES .'OUT

1 '12 C u p s


· P E A S

A N D

C A R R O T S ·

rvl n i n e Lobster Pancake s w i t h Pen Shoot Salnd a n d G i n ger-Carrot E n1. u l s i o n

--------�O�-PEA SHOOT SALAD

LOBSTER GLACE

I toblespoon finely mInced shallots

2 tablespoons conolo oil

l/2 cup moscorpone

Ih cup pea shoot leaves, in ice water

3 lobster bodies (reserved from lobsters),

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

Few drops of lemon oil Pinch of minced shallots

cut into 2-inch pieces 1 tomato, quartered

3 to 4 tablespoons (2 ounces)

I small carrot, cut into I .inch pieces 2 sprigs thyme

8 crepes (page 1 27)

3 to 4 cups water

G I N G E R. C A R R O T

LOBSTER

FILLING

Carrot Powder (poge 232) EMULSION

3 pounds corrals, trimmed

Three l 1f�·pound lobsters, "steeped"

One I -Inch ( 1 -ounce) slice ginger

and meat removed (obout 2 cups

2 toblC'Spoons heavy creom

(¥4 pound) meat) (see poge 124)

1 2 tablespoons (6 ounces) cold unsolted butter;

If.. cup chopped ,hives

W

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

unsalted butter, melted

cut into pieces

hen I hear "peas and carrots." my mind goes directly to the

Discard the bodies and strain the liquid through a chinois (sec page 73).

frozen food section of the grocery store. v{ith its boxes of Jolly

There will be l 'h to 2 cups of stock. Place the stock in a saucepan and

Green Giant peas and carrots. I'm not sure why anyone put the two

reduce over medium heat until it has thickened to a glaze (l to 2

vegetables together. but J think in most Americans' minds. it's a

tablespoons). The glaze can be refrigerated in a covered containcr for

common pairing. So when J .B., one of my early poissonniers, and I were

several days or frozen. Bring to room temperature before using for the

thinking of things to do with lobster. which we were serving with a

filling. Cutthe lobster meat intosmalldice (do

carrot-emulsion sauce. we thought '''Why not serve it with peas?" I use

FOR THE LOBSTER FILLING :

pea shoots to make the peas-and-carrots connection, dressed lightly

not use the claw tips. as they will detract from the texture of the filling).

with a little lemon-infused oil

Mix the lobster meat with the chives. shallots. I tablespoon of the lobster glace. and the masc3rpone. Season to tastc with S3lt and pepper.

FOR THE

LOBSTER GLACE :

Heat the canol a oil over medium-high

heat in a saute pan that will hold the shells in one layer. Add the lobster

126

TIle filling can be covered and refrigerated untHyou are ready to fill the crepes. Brush a baking sheet with some of the melted

bodies and saute for about 4 minutes, turning the shells occasionally.

TO F I L L T H E C R E P E S ;

until the shells have turned red (be careful not to hurn them). Add the

butter. Place the crepes (nicest side down) on a work surface. Scoop

tomato. carrot. thyme. and waterjust to cover. Simmer gently for I ll. hours.

about 1/4. cup of the filling into the center of each crc!pc. (A 2-ounce icc­

Strain the stock through a large strainer or China cap (see page 73).

cream scoop works well for this. but be careful not to rip the pancakes

pressing firmly on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible.

with the scoop,) One by one. fold one edge of each crepe over the filling

The F r e n c h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


and then. working clocl.."wise. continue folding the crepe over the filling. pleating it as you go to form :t round packet. Place the packets seam side down on the buttered pan. Lightly brush the tops with more butter. The filled crepcs can be refrigcrated for scver.11 hours. F O R T H E G I N G E R路 C A R R OT E M U L S I O N ;

1 V4 cups milk

Scont 1 cup ( 4 ounces)

4 tablespoons (2 ounces)

all-purpose flour

Run the carrots and ginger

unsolted buner, melted

Pinch of kosher salt

through a juicer (you can save the carrot pulp to make carrot powder). You should have 2 to 21/. cups of jUice. Place the juicc in a saucepan.

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

bring to a simmer. and remove the first layer of foam that rises to the

You can make crepes savory or sweet. depending on the dish you're

top. Simmer for 1 2 to 15 minutes. or until the juicc is reduced to 1/2 to 3/"

serving.

1 tablespoon minced chives

cup and is the consistency of baby food. Do not skim again; the body is needed to yield a puree rather than a sauce. Remove from the heat and

Place the nour and salt in a bowl and create a well in the center of the

set aside. The puree can be made up to a day ahead and stored in the

nour. Whisk the eggs and milk together and pour into the well. Whisk

rcfrigerator.

the nour and egg mixture together. then whisk in the butter. Strain the Preheat the ovcn to 350掳F.

TO C O M P l E T E

batter through a fine-mesh strainer and stir in the chives.

Heat the carrot puree in a saucepan. Whisk in the cream and reduce

Heat an 8th-inch nonstick crepe pan over mcdium heat until hot.

slightly. to regain the consistency it had before the cream was added.

Spray with a non-stick spray. then usc a I -ounce ladle to pour the batter

With the puree at a gentle simmer. whisk in the butter a piece at a time.

into the center of the skillet (or add 2 tablespoons of batter to the

adding a new piece only when the last piece is almost incorporated.

skillet). Rotate the skillet in a circular motion to cover the bottom of the

Remove the sauce to a blender and blend until it is emulsified. Keep the

pan evenly with the batter Of you hear it sizzle in the pan. your heat is too

sauce in a warm spot. but do not place It over direct heat. or it will break.

high). Cook for 30 to 45 seconds to set the batter. Then usc a small

Heat the lobster pancakes In the oven for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until

narrow spatula to gently flip the crepe. Cook for only 1 0 to 15 seconds more. to set the second side.

hot throughout. M E A N W H I L E,

Drain the pea shoot

Remove the crepe and place it with the nicer side down on a paper

a salad spinner. Toss the leavcs In a bowl with the

towel. Repeat for the remaining crepes. spraying the pan as needed. and

FOR THE

leaves. then dr)'

m

PEA S H O O T SALAD .

layering the paper towcls and crepes.

lemon oil. shallots. and salt and pepper to taste. Place a spoonful of carrot emulsion on each sel>'lng plate. Usc the back of a spoon to sprcad the sauce into a circle that will extend slightly

When you arc ready to fill the crepes. just lift up the towels and fill the crepes-the best side of the crepes \\;11 be on the outside.

beyond the edges of the pancakc. Center the pancakes on the sauce and

M A I(. ( S

1 4 TO

1 8 CR(P(S

garnish the tops with the pea shoot salad. Dust each plate with a httle DESSERT CR tPES '

carrot powder. P I C T U II ( O ON

PAGE

1 29

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Omit the chives. Add 1 tablespoon o f sugar to the

dry ingredients. Add 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract with the eggs.

fisk

127


,

Fish

1 29


" M A C A R O N I

A N D

C H E E S E "

B u t ter-Ponched 1\1ninc Lobstel' w i t h Cl'cn rny Lobster Broth nnd M n s c o l'ponc-Enl'ichcd Ol'ZO

2 cups Creomy Lobster Broth (poge 35)

1 'h cups Beurre Monte (page

'12 cup arlO (rice-shaped posta)

1 tablespoon minced chives

2 tablespoons mascarpone

Coral Oil (page 167), in 0 squeeze bottle

Kosher salt

6 Parmesan Crisps (page 37)

Three

l 'k- to 2-pound lobsters, "steeped"

and meot removed (see page 1 24; reserve knuckle meot for another use)

W

e serve so much lobster at the restaurant that creating new lobster dishes is always an exciting challenge. I used to do an

actual gratin with lobster and macaroni. but now I use ana with mascarpone. the lobster on top. and Parmesan crisps-an echo of the crisp texture of a traditional gratin dish. The coral oil rings the arlO for bright color. and I finish the plate with chopped coral. TIlis is an enormously satisfying dish to cat. Place the lobster broth in a saucepan and bring it to a simmer. Rcduce the broth to a sauce consistency: you should ha\'c 1 to 1 1/4 cups. Sct aside in the pan. Cook the ono in boiling lightly saltcd water until just tender. Drain the cooked pasta in a strainer and rinse under cold water. Shake the strainer to remove exccss water and add the ono to the lobster broth. TO

COMPLETE

If the lobster pieces have been refrigerated. bring

them to room temper::tture. Heat the ono and lobster broth to a simmer. Add the mascarponc and season with salt to taste. Let simmer for a minute. then remove the pan from the heat and keep warm. Meanwhile. place the lobster pieces in one layer in a large saucepan. Pour in the bcurre montc: the lobster should almost be covcred. Hcat gently to warm thc lobster. Stir the chives into the ana. Pipe a 2 - ineh circle of coral oil in thc center of each serving dish. Place ahout 1/3 cup of ono in the center of the oil. allowing it to spread the oil out into a larger circle. Arrange a piece of lobster tail and a claw in the center of the

ana and top each serving

",;lh a Parmesan crisp. M A IC B 6 S E R V I N G S

132

The F r e n c h l o u n d r y C o o k b o o k

135)


Five-Spiced Roasted M a i n e Lobster w i t h Port-Ponched F i g s n n d S o u tced M o u lnrd Duck F o i e G r a s ----------------

� � O

POAC H E D

FIGS AND SAUCE

9 Block Mission figs 1 cup port wine

-----------------

2 tablespoons chopped chives

2 tablespoons Squab Spice ( page 233)

1 tablespoon Chicken Siock (page 226)

Kosher salt

or woler (oplionol)

3/-4 teaspoon ground coffee beans 1 tablespoon plus I teaspoon finely chopped bittersweet chocolate

1 cup Beurre Monte (page 135) Six 3/-4-inch-thlck slices foie gros

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

(about 112 ounce each)

LOB STE RS

Three

l V:z- 10 2-paund lobsters, "steepedH

Freshly ground block pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons Beurre Manle (page 135)

and meat removed (see page 1 24;

1 tablespoon chopped chives

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

reserve knuckle meat for anolher use)

Gray salt

D

uring the summer. figs are in abundance. so we created a lobster

is smooth and thcn strain it through a chinois (see page 73) into a small

dish to show them orr. treating the shellfish like a meat: seasoning

saucepan.

it with squab spice. oven-roasting it with beurre monte. and serving it

TO C O M P L E T E ,

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

w1th foie gras. The most beguiling clement of this dish is the sauce. I knew I wanted it to be a puree of figs that had been poached in port.

Sprinkle the tatls and claws with the squab spice and salt. Place thc

rather than a butter sauce: the figs and port would go well with the foie

lobster pieces in one layer 10 a largc ovenproof skillet. Coat them with 112

gras. But I also wanted some other clements that would gwe the dish

cup of the bcurre mont(!. place ovcr mcdium heat. and hcat gently for

some complexity and depth. so I threw in some biller chocolate and

about 2 minutes. Whcn the bcurre montc bebrins to simmer. place the

some ground coffee beans. You don't really taste the chocolate and

pan in the oven for 5 minutes to finish cooking.

coffee so much as feel their bitter undertone. They counteract the sweetness of the figs. while the fruit gives the sauce Its body. F O R T H E POAC H E D F I G S A N a SAUCE

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Remove the stems from the figs and cut a slit 10 the top of each fruit.

For the lobsters. bring the lobster pieces to room temperature.

Meanwhile. score one side of the slices of foic gras in a crosshatch pattcrn about 111 6 inch dcep Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat a. skillet over high heat and saute the foie gras. scored side down. for about 15 seconds. Turn thc pieces over and continue to cook for an additional 1 5 seconds. Remove from the heat.

Stand the figs Side by side in a small ovenproof saucepan where they fit

Rewarm the fig sauce and add the 1 to 2 tablespoons bcurre mon1<:.

snugly. POllrln the port; it should cover the bottom two thirds of the figs.

shallots. and chives. If the sauce is too thick. It can be thinncd with a

Place the pan o\'er medium hcat and bring to a bOIl. Covcr with a parchment lid (see page 190) and place 10 the oven for about I II: hours.

tablcspoon of chicken stock or water. Scason to taste with salt and peppcr.

or unlll the figs arc soft and the port is slightly reduced.

remal1\ing figs and center one in each pool of sauce. Top cach fig \\;th a

Rcmove thc figs from thc liquid. Thcre will be '1b. to 31. cup port. Place 3 of the figs

U\

a blender with the ground correc and chocolate.

With the motor nmnmg. pour in the warm port. Blend until the mixture

Spoon the fig sauce into the center of the plates. Flatten the lobster tail. then 3 claw. 3 spoonful of beurre monte. and. finally. a slice of sautecd foie gras. Sprinkle the foie gras with thc chivcs and gray salt. P I C T U H D ON

PAG[ \ 3 1

"' A " ( S 6 S E R V I N G S


134

T h e F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookbook


B e u r r e

M

0 n

te :

t h e Wo r k h o r s e S a u c e

We also use beurre monte to baste meats, and this has several

At the French Laundry. we use an awful lot of butter without actually

purposes. When we saute beef or venison or a saddle of lamb. we

serving a lot of butter. because of OUf reliance on the substance called

typically finish cooking it in the oven. But before we do. we drain the fat

beurre monte. We cook in it. rest meats in it. make sauces with it. It's

out of the pan and ladle a little beurre monte over the meat. This belps

an extraordinary vehicle for both heat and flavor. Butter in its solid

to keep the meal moist. enhances the flavor. and also improves the

state is an emulsification of butter fat. milk solids. and water. If you

cooking. because the even layer of fat-the beurre monte-is a heat

melt butter. these three components separate. but heurre monte-a few

conductor. (We always let the pan cool down a little. though: if the pan's

drops of water and chunks of butter whisked over moderate heat-is a

too hot. the beurre monte will separate and the solids will bum.)

method of mcLting butter while maintaining the emulsification.

When the meats are done. they come out of the oven and are

We usc bcurrc monte in many different ways and for different

submerged in beurre monte-it's the perfect restingmedium. lt act'ually

reasons. Poaching lobster in it is one of its primary uses. Its flesh

lowers the temperature of the meat. reducing what is called carryover

imprcgn3tcd with the flavor of butter. this lobster reminds me of Maine

cooking. then maintains it at a great serving temperature. But most

lobster that you eat with drav,rn butter. and for me that's what lobster is

important. the weight of the fat surrounding the meat keeps the meat

all about.

juices from leaking out-they stay in the meat. So here. we use beurre

Poaching lobster in beurre monte is also an easy way to cook it.

montc as environmental control, and it enhances the flavor.

Beurre monte stays between 1 80° and 190°F. in our kitchen (it will break.

Almost all our canape sauces arc made a la. minute with beurre

or separate. if you boil it) and therefore it's always at a perfect poaching

monte. The sauce for the blini. for "Oysters and Pearls." for "Bacon and

temperature. Butter-poached lobster is meltingly tender. moist. and

Eggs"-all arc simply a spoonful ofbeurre monte y,;th different flavoring

flavorful. And because of the gentle temperature. it's harder to overcook

ingredients.

it; once the lobster hits the right point of donencss. it stays therc for a

And finally. what we don't use. we simply clarify the next day and thcn

while. Buttcr-poached lobster is easy to do at home: Make your bcurre

use this clear butter for hollandaise or for sauteing scallops. for cooking

monte. bring it to 1 60° to 1 90°F.. pop your cleaned room-temperature

soft-shelled crabs. crepes. potato chips. You can do that too. or simply

tails and claws into it. and let them poach for 5 to 6 minutes.

refrigerate it and use it the same way you'd use whole butter for cooking.

P R EPAR I N G

B E U R R E

MONTE

A little bit of water helps the emulsion

saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and begin

beurre monte close to the time it will be used and

process: \Vllether you emulsify 4 tablespoons

whisking the ehunks of butter into the water. bit by

keep 1t in a warm place. If you have extra beurre

(2 ounces) or I pound of butter. just a tablespoon

bit, to emuJsify. Once you have established the

monte. it can be rcfrigc�ted and then reheated to

of water will do. Any amount ofbeurre monte can

emulsion. you can continue to add pieces of butter

use as melted butter or clarified.

be made using the following method. Read the

untilyou havethe quantityofbeurre montcthatyou

Though we arc enamored of beurre monte

particular recipe through to determine the total

need (we make 20 pounds at a tirne). It is important

and use it all day in our kitchens. when a recipe

to keep the level of heat gentle and consistent in

calls for only a tablespoon or two. you can

order to maintain the emuJsification. Make the

substitute whole butter.

amont of beurre monte you will need. Bring the water to a bOll in an appropriate-size

F i s h 135


Pall·Roasted �1al11e JlllUbo Scnllops with Morel M u s h l'o0111S l\l1d Asparagus Puree

--------�o�-30 medium stalks asparagus

I tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons Brunoise (page 1 55)

1 to 2 cups Vegetable Stock (page 227),

3 small sprigs thyme

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

2 cloves garlic, smashed

I to 2 tablespoons tomoto diamonds

Chicken Stock (page 226), or water

24 medium morels (about 8 ounces),

(see page 203)

I tablespoon chopped shallot

soaked in several changes of worm water

7 to 8 tablespoons Beurre Monte (page 135)

Conola oil

until cleon and then rinsed

2 teaspoons minced chives

6 jumbo scallops, tough ligaments removed (about 21/2 ounces each)

T

his dish uses the classic combination of morels and asparagus. The

liquid to drain. Discard the liquid and scrape the puree through the

sauce is simply

tamis. You should have about % cup of puree.

a

puree of asparagus finished with a little beurre

monte. Our scallops arc briny. which I think is fundamental in a good

Trim the stems from the morels. Place them in a saucepan. add

scallop. Be careful not to overcook them: too much heat will destroy that

enough stock or water to cover. and simmer until tender. Drain the

briny quality and make them stringy. I cherish our scallop dishes. not only because of the scallops

mushrooms and cut them into small dice. TO C O M P L E T E :

Heat the butter in a medium saute pan. When it is hot.

themselves but also because of my relationship with Ingrid Bengis. Her

add the morels. thyme sprigs. and garlic. Cook over medium heat for

scallops are harvested from November through May off Stonington.

about 2 minutes. Add the shallot to the pan and cook for I more minute.

Maine. and Ingrid knows whieh fishermen shuck scallops into saltwater

Remove the pan from the heat and discard the thyme and garlic. Add 3

(as opposed to shucking them dry or into fresh water). which keeps their

to 4 tablespoons beurre monte. the chives. and brunoise. Season with

briny quality. and she sends them to us dry-packed (many scallops arc

salt and white pepper; keep warm.

packed in a chemical brine that plumps them and makcs them too watery).

Warm the asparagus tips with the tomato diamonds and 2 1ablespoons beurre monte in a small pan over low heat. In a separate pan. wanll the

Trim away the boltom third of each asparagus spear and discard. Cut

asparagus puree and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons beurre monte.

1 liz-inch-long tips from the asparagus spears: reserve the stalks. Blanch

Season both mixtures with salt and white pepper to taste: keep warm.

the asparagus tips in boiling water (see Big-Pot Blanching. page 58)

Heat I/S inch of eanola oil in a medium skillet over medium-high

until just tender and remove to an ice water bath. Blanch the stalks until

heat. Pat the scallops dry on paper towels. season with salt. and place

they arc fully cooked and place in a second ice water bath. When the tips

them in the pan. Cook the scallops for I to 2 minutes one each side. or

and spears are cold. transfer to paper towels to drain.

until well browned.

Puree the stalks in a blender with just enough stock or water (2 to 4

Place a spoonful of the asparagus puree on each plate. Center a

tablespoons) to allow them to turn. Pour the purt'!e onto a tamis (sec

spoonful of the mushroom mixture over the puree and top with a scallop.

page 73) set over a bowl and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes to allow excess

Stack the asparagus tips and tomatoes over the scallops. MAKts 6 SlRVINGS

136

The French L a u n d ry C o o k b o o k


Salmon "Chops" w i t h Celery and Bl nel(. Truffles

--------�o�-

3 medium stolks celery

Freshly ground white pepper

Kosher solt

2 teaspoons water

Conolo oil

3 tablespoons (1 V2 ounces) unsalted butter

Six l 1h-inch round brioche Croutons (page 238)

1 V2 teaspoons white truffle oil

6 sprigs chervil

Six l in. by 2- by l -inch·thick pieces solman fillet, skin on (see On Crisping Slotin, page 147)

T

1 8 thin slices block truffle, plus 2 tablespoons finely julienned (slivered) block truffle

3 tablespoons lightly whipped cream

he idea of doing a fish chop was inspired by David Burke. the

skin side down and cook for about I minute. then turn over and cook for

relentlessly creative chef of New York City's Park Avenue Cafe. He

another minute. "Kiss." or briefly cook. the sides of the pieces. Remove

uses swordfish. which is too big for the French Laundry. but there's a

the cooked salmon and keep warm.

section of the salmon fillet near the head that can be cut into two chops.

F O R THE SAUCE;

It's anything but practical. since you only get two from each whole

the heat to low and whisk in the butter to emulsify (see Beurre Monte.

salmon. Here. to replace the chop cut. use salmon fillet.

page 135). Nter adding the last of the butter. whisk in the white truffle

Peel the celery stalks. squaring off the rounded side of the stalks as you

cream to create a slight froth. Scason with salt.

Bringthewatert o a boil i n a small saucepan. Reduce

oil. Remove the butter from the heat and vigorously whisk in the beavy peel. Slice the celery length\,;se on a mandoline and cut the slices mto fine julienne about 1 inch long.

Spoon about I tablespoon of the sauce into the center of each of six howls. Arrange three small nests of celery. equally spaced. around each

Blanch the celery in boiling salted water until tender (see Big-Pot

pool of the sauce. Top each nest with a slice of truffle. Place a crouton in

Blanching. page 58). drain it in a strainer. and place thc strainer in an

the center of the sauce and top with a piece of salmon. skin side up.

ice-water bath. When the celery is cold. drain. dry on paper towels. and

Garnish each fillet with julienned truffle and a sprig of chervil. Sprinkle

sprinkle with salt to taste. You should have about '/" cup of celery.

the dish lightly \\;th salt.

Heat about l/a inch of canola oil in a large skillet. Season the salmon

P I C T U R E D ON P A G E

1 38

MAKES 6 HRVINGS

with salt and white pepper. When the oil is hot. add the salmon fillets

Fish

137


Abo�Ct: Sollctlng a Solman 'Chop,' page 1 37. OppolllCt: (lulIl-Morfnoted Solman, pogl'

138

The French Loundry Cookbook

140.


C i t rus-l\1 n r i n n t e d Saltnon \\' i t h a Co ntit ot Novel Oranges. Beluga Cavlnl'. a n d Pea S h o o t C o u U s

-----------------------� O r---------------------t side solmon (0 whole fillet, about 4 pounds), skin and pin bones removed CITRUS MARINADE

IfJ cup finely minced chives

ORANGE CONFIT

4 novel oranges

I to 2 ounces belugo caviar

III cup Simple Syrup (page 271)

Citrus Powder (poge 232)

Finely grated zest of t orange (about 2 teaspoons)

III teaspoon white wine vinegar

Finely grated zest of III lemon (about

PEA SH OOT C O U L I S

I teaspoon)

Finely grated zest of 1/2 lime (about 'h: teaspoon)

3 quarts (6 ounces) pea shoots

Finely grated zest of V.. grapefruit (about 2

2 to 3 tablespoons Chicken Stock (page 226)

teaspoons) IfJ cup kosher solt

(optional)

1 'h tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons sugar

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground white pepper

Olive oil for poaching

As with the \Varm Fruitwood-Smoked Salmon with Potato Gnocchi I-\. and Balsamic Glaze (page 91). 1 work a similar twist on the citrus­

Place the salmon fillet rounded side up on a cutting board. Trim the salmon of its thin fatty belly flap and any other fat. and cut off the last 2

marinated salmon. which is cured and flavored with ground citrus zest.

to 3 inches of the tail end (reserve it for another use). Flip the fillet over

We poach the salmon in olive oil very. very gently. at about 1 1 0 degrees.

and trim away and discard any dark flesh. Youwill see a line running the

Again. what is normally served cold. as gravlax. is served hot and yet it

length of the fish: cut the salmon fillet lengthwise in half down this line.

has even more of the qualities you look for in the cold preparation. that

For this reCipe. you will use the wider section of the fillet. Trim it into an

melting richness of cold cured salmon. I use navel oranges because they

even rectangular piece approximately 13 inches long and 3 inches wide

have no seeds. give the highest yield. and have the best shape. If pea

and weighing about 1 1/.. pounds. (Use the extra salmon for tartare or

shoots are unavailable. you could substitute pea tendrils or watercress.

another dish.)

preparing them the same way. Both of these salmon preparations are unique and embody some of the most exciting elements of cooking for me.

F O R THE CITRUS MARINADE:

Comhinc the marinade ingredients in

a bowl. stirring with a fork to break up any clumps. Cut a piece of aluminum foil slightly longer than the fillet. Sprinkle half of the marinade down the center of the foil and spread it into the

In order to get the proper thickness needed for this dish. start

shape of the fillet. Place the fillet on it and sprinkle the remaining

with a whole fillet. or side of salmon. Aftertrimming. you will have about

marinade over the fish. Bring the sides of the foil together over the top

two pounds of salmon left. which can be used for another dish.

of the fish and roll the foil down to form a packet. Turn the ends of the

NOT£:

140

The F r e n c h L o u n d ry C o o k b o o k


foil under the fish and place the packet on a baking sheet. Place a second

To determine how much oil is needed to cook the fish. stand the

baking sheet on the fish and welght it lightly. Marinate the salmon in the

pieccs of fish. on one of their cut sides. in a pan that ,vi11 bold them in

rcfrigerator for 3 hours (or about 1 hour for every 1/. inch of the fish

one layer and cover them with olive oil. Remove the pieces of fish and

fillet's thickness). Don't forget your fish: if it marinates for too long. it

heat the oil to 1 1 0°F. Return the salmon pieces to the oil. on their sides.

will be oversalted.

and heat them for about 10 minutes (it will take closer to 13 minutes if Usmga sharp knife, slice

the fillets were cold). To test the cooked salmon. remove a piece and

off the peel, including aU the white pith from the oranges. \Vorking over

bend it slightly. It should begin to fl.ke. but the color should still be

M E A N W H I L E . F O R T H E O R A N G E C O N F I T:

a bowl, slice between the membranes to remove all the orange segments:

almost the color of raw salmon. The fish can remain in the oil slightly

discard the membranes.

longer without overcooking. providing the tcmperature does not exceed

Bring the simple syrup and white wine vinegar to a boil. Pour over

1 10°F.: maintain the temperature by placing the pan on a heat diffuser

the orange segments and let cool to room temperature (this is called a

or by moving the pan on and orf the heat as necessary. lrthe temperature

contit because the syrup stabilizes the oranges). This can be rdngerated

of the oil starts to rise. adding 3 little more oil to the pan will help to

for 1 to 2 days. You will need 32 orange sections for this: reserve any

lower the heat quickly. When the salmon is cooked. remove the fillets

extras for another use.

from the pan and drain briefly on paper towels.

FOR

THE

PEA

SHOOT

COULlS:

Blanch the pea shoots in 2 to 3

batches (see Big-Pot Blanching. page 58) until the stems are completely

TO C O M P L ET E :

Warm the orange sections in the syrup. Bring the pea

shoot coulis to a simmer. adding a little chicken stock or water if the

tender. 6 to 8 minutes. As each batch becomes tender. lift the shoots to

sauce is too thick. Once it's at a simmer. whisk in the butter and salt to

a chinois (see page 73) and submerge the chino is in icc water to chill the

taste. Pour the coulis into a sauceboat.

pca shoots. then drain them.

Place 4 warm orange sections side by side to form a rectangle in the

Place the shoots in a blender with just enough water to allow the

center of each serving plate. Spread the chives on a dish and press the

blade to turn and blend the mi.'(ture. If you need more water. add it by

tops (cut sidc) of the salmon pieces in the chives to coat them. Set the

the tablespoon. Scrape the puree through a tOlmis (see page 73): you

fish chive side up over the oranges and garnish the top of each fillet with

should have '12 to 3/, cup. Place the puree in a small saucepan.

a small quenelle (see page 274). or oval scoop. of caviar. Dust each plate

Remove the marinated £ish from the foil. rinse off the marinade,

with a pinch of citrus powder. At the table. pour about I tablespoon of

and dry the fillet thoroughly. Cut the fillet crosswise mto 8 pieces

the coulis around each fillet.

approximately 3 inches by J lh inches wide. I£ time allows. let the fish

P I C T U R £ O ON P A G £

1 39

M A K E S 8 5 t A: V L N C S

stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to an hour.

F i s t-.

141


"CLAM Sauteed

Cod

with

CHOWDER"

Cod Cul<es nnd Parsley O i l

------ Or----

1

side cod

(0 whole fillet, about 2'12 pounds),

2 tablespoons

1

6 littleneck clams, soaked

potatoes, peeled

cup crisp, dry white wine, such as Souvignon Blanc

2

medium shollots, sliced

I

until tender (see Big路Pat Blanching,

small boy leaf

2 to 3

1

unsolted buner

1

teaspoon very finely minced garlic

tablespoons 8curre Monte (pogc

V2 teaspoon finely minced

Sauvlgnon Blanc

tablespoons olive oil

peeled Yukon Gold potato

drained

I

1/4 cup crisp, dry white wine, such as

3

blanched

(lI".;nch dice), boiled untill lender and

1 2 block peppercorns

I

1

cup heavy creom

135)

Itolion parsley

tablespoon Brunoise (poge 1 55)

Parsley Oil (page

Conola all

1 66), in a

squeeze bottle

Trimany darkened areas fromthe fillet. Cut 6 porlions

love cod. because you can do so much with it. I wanted a garnish for a

FOR T H E COO ;

cod fillet that was indigenous to where that cod was from. Thus the

about 2 inches by 3 inches by I inch thick (21h to 3 ounces each) from

New England chowder. and also the cod cakes. which arc wonderful all

the fillet. Cut the trimmings into chunks (about 14 ounces total).

by themselves-I used to serve them as

FOR THE COD CAKES:

a.

canape. They're based on

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with water to

brandade. which is a traditional French dish of pureed salt cod and

cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat. reduce the heat.

potatoes. These cakes arc sauteed to develop a perfect crust on the

and simmer until lender; drain.

outside and creaminess on the inside. I use them as the pedestal for the

Meanwhile. bring the wine. shallots. garlic. thyme. and peppercorns

fillet. which is sauced with a very elegant "chowder" of celery. potatoes.

to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the cod trimmings. cover. and steam the

and clams. and finish the dish with vivid parsley oil.

fish for 5 minutes. or until thoroughly cooked. Remove the pieces of fish

This recipe will make more cod cakes than you need. but you can

142

lfJ cup diced

small shallot, peeled

1 4 ounces

S tablespoons (2'12 ounces)

V16路inch slices),

page 58), chilled in ice watcr; and drained

small clove gorlic, peeled

1 sprig thyme

kosher salt

celery (peeled and cut on a

and scrubbed with 0 brush

6 sprigs thyme reserved cod trimmings (from above)

V. cup sliced

in a few changes

diagonal into

112

tablespoon

Kosher solt and freshly ground white pepper

"CHOW D E R"

of cold water for severol hours, drained,

5 cloves gorlic, crushed

1

Flour for dusting

I SS)

Italian parsley

CLAMS

COD CAKES

1 2 ounces Yukon Gold

Brunoise (page

2 teaspoons finely chopped

skin and any bones removed

and drain them on paper towels. Discard the cooking: liquid.

store them in the freezer. ready to be used as appetii'.crs or a first course

Place the hot potatoes and bot fish in a bawl and break them up with

on their own. Ofyou do not have 14 ounces of trimmings. just reduce the

a fork until cvenly mixed. Add the remaining ingredients one at a time.

other quantities accordingly.)

mixing after each addition. Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour.

The F r e n c h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


TO

ROLL THE lOGS:

Put a 14-inch piece of plastic wrap on a wet

counter (this will make rolling the logs easier). place half of the cod mixture on the plastic. and (arm it into a 2-inch-widc log that is 7 to 8 inches long. Roll the log in the plastic and twist the ends. Tie one end and twist the other tightly to compress the mixture. Repeat to form the second log. Place in the freezer for at least several hours. or up to 2 weeks. FOR

THE

CLAMS:

Place the clams in a small pot with the garlic.

shallot. thyme. bay leaf. and wine. Cover and bring to a boil; remove each clam as soon as it opens. Remove the clams from the shells and reserve. Strain the cooking liquid into a small saucepan and reduce to a glaze (2 to 3 tablespoons). Add the heavy cream and reduce the sauce slowly to about 1/3 to 112 cup. TO C O M P L E T E :

Preheat the oven to 250°F.

Cut six 3/4-inch slices from one cod cake log remove the plastiC wTap. and thaw them for about 15 minutes. (Keep the remaining mixture fro1.en for another time.) Heat II. inch of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Dip the cod cakes in flour. pat offany excess. and saute for about 1 th minutes on each side. or until they are browned and hot throughout. Keep them warm on a baking sheet in the oven. In a large skillct. heat II. inch of oil until hot. Season the cod \\;th salt and white pepper and saute until golden brown. about 3 minutes per side. Drain briefly on paper towels. Meanwhile. for the Hchowder.ďż˝ in a saucepan. warm the celcry and potato cubes \\;th the buerre manU;. parslcy. brunoise. and reservcd clams. Rcwarm the sauce over low heat. Pipe a flng of parslcy oil 10 cach serving dish. Fill each ring With about I tablespoon of the sauce. top \\;th a cod cake. the sauteed cod. and the Hchowdcr." M "' U S 6 H R V I N G S


Sauteed A t l a n t i c H A l i b u t w i t h SUlnmel' SuccotAsh and Rue-Scented O n io n Glaze

--------�O�-

CIPOLLINI

ONIOHS AND

SAUCE

6 medium or 1 2 small cipollini onions

(obout 6 ounces total)

liz teaspoon finely minced chives

S U CCOTASH

4 ears baby corn

1 teaspoon Brunoise (page 1 55)

1 '12 teospoons sugar

2 to 3 tablespoons Beurre Monle (page 1 35)

Canola oil

I cup milk

Freshly ground block pepper to taste

About 2 '12 cups Chicken Stock (page 226)

Kosher solt

H A L I B UT

112 cup Veol Stock (page 222)

1 8 fovo beans, peeled, germ removed

Flour for dusting

5 sprigs thyme

(see page 80), blanched until tender

A 'h:-inch sprig rue

(see Big-Pot Blanching, page 58),

1 tablespoon honey

chilled in ice water, and drained

Pinch of kosher salt 1 tablespoon Beurre Monte (page 135)

(peeled ond cut into lf1 6-inch dice),

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter,

quickly blanched and drained

cut Into 6 pieces

by 31.. inches (about 3 ounces each) Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper Conolo oil

1 teaspoon diced red bell pepper

I teaspoon diced yellow belJ pepper (peeled and cut into 1/16-jnch dice),

Freshly ground block pepper

6 pieces halibut fillet, 2 inches by 2 inches

1/2 to 3/" cup Beurre Monte (page 1 35) 6 chive tips (obout

I inch long)

6 smoll sprigs chervil

quickly blanched and drained

O

ne of the reasons I find fish exciting to coak is that it carries

character to the sauce.) Once the root ends arc brown. transfer the

garnishes so well. Halibut is a great example. I often serve it with

onions to a fine strainer to drain any excess oil.

four different preparations of onions. sometimes even with a dusting of

Return the onions. and any brown bits in the strainer. to the pan

onion powder. I use Atlantic halibut because it has a higher fat content

and add 2 cups of the chicken stock. the veal stock. thyme. rue. honey.

and a moister flesh than the Pacific. Here the garnish is succotash with

and salt. Bring the liquid to it simmer. Cover with a parchment lid (see

an unusual glaze that originated with my faVOrIte way to cook onions.

page 190) and braise in the oven for 45 minutes. or until the onions arc

braising them with the herb rue. Rue IS a beautiful gray-green plant that

meltingly tender. They should still hold their shape. but there should be

isn't used often in the kitchen. but it gives a flavor to onions that's

no resistance when tested with a paring knife.

unique-kind of floral with a nutty undenone. Nothing can substitute

When the onions are tender. remove them from the pan. Peel away

for its flavor. but in its absence you could use thyme. rosemary. or basil.

the skin and any tough outer layers and place the onions in a container. Strain the braising liquid through a fine strainer into a small saucepan.

FOR THE CIPOLLINI O N I O N S :

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Trim the root ends of the onions. leaving the skin on and enough root intact to hold them together. Coat the bottom of a pan wide enough 10 hold the onions in onc layer with

144

IIlIi ineh of canola oil. Heat the oil

Reduce the liquid slowly for about 15 minutes. untii aboul 6 tablespoons of glaze remain. The liquid should be dark and thick. but if it is too sticky (like syrup or honey). add chicken stock. a tablespoon at a time. to thin it out. Set the sauce aside in the pan. Place the baby corn in a small

over medium-high heat and when it is hot. add the onions root side

M E A N W H I L E , F O R T H E S U C C O TA S H :

down. Se'lr the onions on the root cnd only until they are a dark golden

saucepan with the sugar. milk. and a pinch of salt. Bringto a simmer and

brown. 3 to 4 minutes. (This initial scaring will add flavor depth and

poach the corn for 10 to 12 minutes. until tender. There should be very

The French Loundry Cookbook


little resistance when the corn is tested with a paring knife. but it must be able to hold its shape without falling apart when cut. Rinse the corn and cut each cob into rondelles. thin rounds of about Ih6lnch. Combine the baby corn with the fava beans. red and yellow peppers. chives. and brunoise in a sJucep�m. Add the beurre montc Jnd about

1 teaspoon water to moisten the vegetables and set Jside. TO

C O M P L E T E : For the halibut. piJce some nour in a dish. Season

both sides of the halibut with salt and pepper and lightly coat the skin side with flour. patting off any excess. Heat 1fa inch of canola oil in a large skillet; the pan should be big enough to hold all si.x picces of fish comfortably without overcrowding them. If the fillets touch each other. they will steam rather than sautc. so if your pan is not big enough. use two pans. Place the fish skin side down in the hot oil and cook for 2 minutes. or until a crisp golden-brown cnlst forms. Turn the fish and cook for another minute. Halibut should be cooked only to medium. as it has a tendency to dry out. When the fish is donc. turn off the heat and coat the pieces on both sldes with the bcurrc manu!. Let the fish rest for a couple of minutcs. then drain the fillcts on it paper towel to absorb exccss butter. Meanwhilc. place the onions in a saucepan with thc beurrc monte and JUSt enough chicken stock to come

1 tablespoon

1ft.

inch up the

sides of the pan. Heat gently to warm. Reheat the succotash o\'er low heat and season wHh salt and pepper. Set the sauce ovcr medium hcat. Whisking continuously. add the butter. a tablcspoon at a time. Do not let the sauce comc to a boil. or the butter will separate and become oily. The sauce is ready when it coats the back of a spoon. Adjust the seasoningwilh S.1lt and pcpper to taste. Place a spoonful of sauce on each pl3te. Place

1 medium cipollim

onion or 2 small ones on each pool of sauce and place a piece of halibut on top. Spoon the succotash over the fish. Garnish the top of e3cb serving with a chive tip and a sprig of chervil. M A ll O 6 S [ R V I N G ďż˝

F h h 145


Bb\el" Sen B a s s w i t h Sweet Pars n i p s . Arrowlenr S p i nach . a n d S a rrron-Va n i l i a Sauce

----- 'oďż˝---MUSSEL STOCK

1 8 mussels, scrubbed and debeorded

6 ounces spinach, washed and tough

1/.. teaspoon saffron threads

l lh. teaspoons heavy cream

2 large cloves garlic, peeled

Kosher salt

1 large shallot, peeled

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

4 sprigs thyme

PA R S N I P

2 boy leaves

2 parsnips (about 5 ounces), peeled

1 cup crisp, dry white wine, preferably Souvignon Blanc

1 cup plus I tablespoon heavy cream

Conolo oil Six 2- by 3-inch pieces block sea boss fillet (about

Pinch of kosher soh

1 teaspoon unsalted buHer

B

cut into 8 pieces BASS

112 cup water

SPINACH

JIA teaspoon olive oil

1 0 tablespaons (5 ounces) unsolted buHer,

PUREE

Three 2-inch strips orange zest (removed with a vegetable peeler)

Reserved 1 cup mussel stock (from above)

stems removed

6 ounces each), skin on (see On Crisping Skin, page 147)

S A F F R O N -VA N I L L A S A U C E

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

112 vanilla bean, split

lack sea bass is an extremely versatile fish because of its neutral

FOR T H E S P I N A C H :

flavor and sturdy texture; it allows you to use your imagination i n

with the olive oil. Heat the oil until it is hot and the zest begins to ripple

Place the strips o f orange zest i n a large skillet

both cooking method a n d in t h e combinations o f flavors you want. It's a

from the heat. Add the spinach and sprinkle with salt (scasoning the

good fish to cook with the skin on. both for the dramatic visual appeal

spinach before it wilts ensures even seasoning. Cook the spinach until it

and for the flavor. This dish is a contrast in textures: the crisp skin on

wilts. then continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes to evaporate the

the moist flesh of the fish. and the toasty exterior of the spinach balls

moisture. Remove the spinach from the pan and separate it into 6 parts.

surrounding their soft interior. The sauce uses a mussel stock. but not

Take each pile of spinach. place it in a clean tea towel. and twist the towcl

the cooked mussels; the mussels would be delicious seIVed cold with

around the spinach to squeeze out any remaining liquid and form a

Sauce Gribiche (page 2 1 4) .

compact ball. Remove from the towel. Refrigerate the spinach balls until ready to complete the dish.

146

F O R T H E M U S S E L S T O C K : Place the mussels in a pot with the garlic.

FOR

shaBot. thyme. bay leaves. and wine. Cover the pot and bring to a boil;

Beginning at the narrow end. cut Ill-inch pieces. When the parsnip half

THE

PA R S N I P

P U R E E ; Slice the parsnips lengthwise in half.

remove each mussel as soon as it opens. Reserve the mussels for another

widens. about one third of the way up. split it lengthwise again and

use. Strain the mussel stock through a chinois (sec page 73).

continue to cut. (You want to keep the pieces about the same size.)

The F r e n c h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k


Place the cut parsnips in a saucepan with 1 cup of the heavy cream.

continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. or until the fillets are

the water. and salt. Bring to a boil. lower the heat. and simmer gently for

almost cooked. Turn the fillcts and "kiss" (briefly cook) the flesh side of

25 to 30 mmutes. or until the parsnips are completely soft. Strain the

the fish. Remove the fillets from the pan.

parsnips. reserving the cream, and scrape the parsnips through a tamis (sec page 73) with a plastic scraper. Put the puree in a bowl and stir in enough of the strained cream to give them the texture of mashed potntoes. Transfer to a small saucepan and keep in a warm place. Preheat the oven to 350째F. FOR

THE

S A F F R O N .V A N I L L A

While the fish cooks. reheat the parsnips over low heat and stir in remaining I tablespoon cream and the butter. Place a pool of sauce on each serving: plate. Spoon some parsnip purce into the center of the sauce and top the puree with a spinach ball. Set the fish fillets. skin side up. on the spinach and serve.

SAUCE:

Scrape the seeds from the

P l C T U It[ O ON ' A G E

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

1 48

vanilla bean into a small saucepan and add the vanilla pod. mussel stock. and saffron threads. Bring the stock to a simmer. then simmer until

O N

C R I S P I N G

S K I N

reduced to a glaze (I to Ph tablespoons). Add the cream and simmer for a few more seconds. Over medium heat. whisk in the butter bit by bit (as

I love the texture and flavor of perfectly crisped fish skin. and there's a

you would for beurre montc). It is critical to maintain the sauce at the

key step in preparation that ensures proper crisping: getting as much

correct temperature, as it can break if it becomes too hot or cold. Strain

Il)oisture out of the skin before cooking as possible. Skin will not crisp.

the sauce and

nux

for several seconds with an immersion blender to

emulsify (if you don't have an immersion blender, you can use a regular one. but rinse out the blender container with hot water before adding the sauce. so it stays warm). Keep the sauce in a warm place.

obviously. if there's water in it. Skin that is too moist will take a long time to crisp, and you will overcook your fish. The way we prepare the fish is to take the blade of a knife and drag it over the skin. pressing down gently but firmly to force the water to the

Melt the 2 teaspoons butter in a small ovenproof

surface. then pulling the knife back over the s\...;n to squeegee off the

skillet and roll the spinach balls around in 11. Place the skillet in the oven

water. Repeat this pressing and scraping until you've gotten as much

to warm while you cook the fish.

water out of the fish skin as possible. This will allow you to achieve criSp

TO

COMPLETE-

Heat l/a inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season

fish skin without overcooking the flesh.

the fish with salt and white pepper. When the oil is hot, add the fish fillets. skin side down. Press a lid or another pan down on the fish to flatten the fillets and keep the skin in direct contact with the skillet. Cook this way for a minute. or until the fish is "set. H Remove the lid and

Fhh

147


--

---

-

_ _ _-==---="-_ -=c;o_ _� _=__-___=_ _=_ =_ __"'_ - _ -_.= _ _ _ _ �-=-.�_

--_ _ _ _ _ -

_

Above' Block StO Bon with Sweet PO'1nlpl, Affowleol Splnoch. ond Solf.on.vonilio Souc.... potl0

148

Th� FrenCh laundry

Cookbook

1 �6


J r


150

T h e F r e n c h l O \J n d r y C o o k b o o k


OPPO.;,� ond o\J.ov� Pon·ROOI'�d Striped BOil ...ltll Al1lclloh Ro.loll, poO�

IS2


Pan·Roasted Striped Bass ,."ith Artichoke Ravioli and Barigoule Vinaigrette

--------�o�--

ARTICHOKE

RAV I O L I

1 recipe Artichokes Barlgaule (page 63)

1 teaspoon sugar

'I.. cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgIn olive all

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper BASS

'I.. teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

Pinch of freshly ground block pepper, or to taste

3 tablespoons tomato diamonds (see page 203)

Conolo oil

2 teaspoons olive all

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

6 thIck squore pIeces striped bass fjllet

2 sheets Posta Dough for ravioli (page 78)

'I.. cup 8eurre Monte (page 1 35)

1 lorge egg yolk, beaten for egg wash

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Cornmeal for dusting ravioli

B A R I G O U l E V I N A I G R ET T E

Kosher solt and freshly ground whIte pepper

VEG ETABLE GARNISH

Reserved braisIng liquid from Artichokes

2 to 3 tablespoons unsolted butter

36 carrot batons (sweet bunch carrots, cut 1 Inch by 'I.. Inch by

(about 3 ounces each), skin on (see On Crisping Skin, page 147)

Borigoule (above), strained

'I.. Inch)

1 2 white pearl onions, peeled and trimmed of their root ends

112 cup chopped shallots

Basil Oil (page 1 66), In a squeeze bottle

III cup chopped garlIc

6 sprigs chervil

3 cups dry white wine

12 red peart onions, peeled and trimmed

% teaspoon sherry vinegar

of their root ends

T

here's nothing quite like the meaty quality of striped bass. You can

surface o f the dough with egg wash. Mark 1 2 circles in the dough with the

crisp the skin well without overcooking the flesh. The vinaigrette

dull side ofa 2- inch round cutter. leaving at least liz inch between them.

for this dish is made from a reduction of the Artichokes Barigoule

Center 1 tablespoon of the artichoke filling in a mound on each circle.

liquid. so it's intense and brilliantly flavored.

Lineup one end of the second sheet of dough along one end of the dough and carefully drape the pasta sheet over the filling. pressing down

F O R T H E A R T I C H O K E RAV I O L I ; Cut

1 6 slices about I inch long from

2 of the artichoke hearts and set aside for the garnish.

offillingto press out any air bubbles. Using the very tip of a paring knife.

Chop enough of the remaining artichoke hearts to make a generous

gently poke a hole in each ravioli toward the bottom of the filling (this

3/4 cup. Mix together with the sah. pepper. and olive oil. Strain all the

will help any steam that builds up during cooking escape). Using a 2 11.. _

barigoule braising liquid and reserve. Place a sheet of pasta dough on a lightly floured surface. Brush the

152

bet " ..een the mounds of artichoke. Run your fingers around each mound

The French laundry Cookbook

inch fluted round cutter. cut out the 12 ravioli. You will need 6 ravioli for this dish; the rest can be frozen for future usc.


parchment paper. lightly dust it with 'ith . Line a baking sheet ...

motor on and slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Season to taste. the vinaigrette

cornmeal. and place the ravioli on it. If they are to be used within a few

should have a nice tart flavor. Sct the vinaigrette aside in a warm spot for

hours, cover lightly and refrigerate. For longer storage. they can be

a few hours. Any extra vinaigrette can be refrigerated and used in salads.

frozen on the baking sheet. then removed and stored in plastic bags:

TO C O M P L E T E : For the bass. heat about 1/, lOch of oil in a large skillet

cook them while still frozen.

over medium-high heat. Season the skin side of the fish with salt and

F O R T H E V E G E TA B L E G A R N I S H : Place the carrot batons in a small

sprinkle the other side \\;th salt and white pepper. Place the fish skin side

saucepan, add lightly salted cold water to cover. and bring to a boil. Cook

down in the hot oil. turn down the hcat to medium and cook for

the carrots for about 3 minutes. or until they are tender; drain in a

2 to 3 minutes. pressing down on the pieces with a spatula to criSp the

strainer and chill in an Ice-water bath. Drain again. dry the carrots on

skin. until the fish is almost cooked. Turn thc fish over and cook on the

paper towels. and set aside.

second side for 3 minute to finish the cooking. "Kiss." or cook vcry briefly.

Place the white and red pearl onions in two separate small sauce足

the sides of the fish in the hot oil just to set. l..aythe fish skin side up in the

pans with water to cover by 1/2 inch. Add 1/2 teaspoon of the sugar and

pan. pour off the oil from the pan. and add the butter. Cover the pan and

1 teaspoon of the butter to each pan. Bring to a boil. turn down the heat.

let the fish cook for another 30 seconds. then remove the pan from thc

and cook for 12 to 14 minutes. until the liquid has cvaporated and the

heat and let the bass steam. still covcred. for 3 to 4 minutes.

onions are glazed. Be careful not to scorch the onions as the liquid reduces. At the end of cooking, add the red wine vinegar to the red pearl onions to help maintain their color. Set aside.

Meanwhile. cook the ravioli in lightly salted boiling water for 5 to 6 minutes. or until cooked through. Rcmove from the pot and drain. Warm the reserved artichoke slices. carrots. pearl onions. tomato

F O R T H E B A R I G O U L E VI N A I G R E TTE : Skim any fat from the top of

diamonds. parsley. and beurre monte in a small saucepan. Season to

the strained braising liquid: you should have about 4 cups of liquid.

taste with salt and white peppcr.

Place the shallots. garlic. and white wme in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce the liquid for about IS minutes. or until the pan is almost dry. Add thc barigoulc liquid and cook for about 30 minutes. or until the liquid has reduced to about I cup. Strain the liquid into a small saucepan and discard the shallots and

Check the consistcncy of the vinaigrette; if it is too thick. stir in a small amount of hot water. Squeezc a 2- inch ring of basil oil onto the center of each plate. Fill the center of each with a spoonful of the vinaib'Tette. Top the vinaigrette with an inverted ravioli (rounded Side down) . Place a piece of fish on the

garlic. Continue to reduce the liquid until it IS reduced and syrupy (about

ravioli and top the bass with the vegetables and sprib"S of chervil.

I/S cup). Strain the reduction into a blender and add the vinegar. Turn the

P l C T U R l D ON ' A co n

1 50 AND 1 5 1

M " lC l S 6 $ [ R V ' N G S


pucl rat: M o l w i l l i J1J'(-Hh SoyIH,! l l n H . Scu l l 1 0 1 1 n n d n n d l H h S n l n d , n n d 80y-'I'0 1 11p l o O.'ong-c Gluzc

RADISH SALAD

ORANGE GLAZE

I toblC$poorI lomata diamond$ ($CO poge 203)

.. poon . finely lulienned ><o1I1on 3 tobl

2 cups fresh OfOngO Juke

2 tCO$poons Brunolsc (poge 1 55)

(about

I I""h long)

2 toblfHpoonS (I ounce) cold unsalted butter.

3 loblc$f>OOO' finely lullonned swect bunch (,Qrtot (oboul I Indl long)

3 IObiCHpoon$ ffnoly lullenned (about

,odl$h

I '''''h long)

3 toblespoons Bourro Mont4!o (poge 1 35) MOt

cui Inlo 4 pieces

'/. teo$poon soy souce

Canolo all

SOYBE A N S

Six 3'h- by 1 .lnch pieces mot fillet, skin on

(see On Cri.P;ng Skin, poge 1 47)

'/. cup (3 ounces) wiled fresh wybeon$.

1 loblfHpoon dM)pped chh-e1

bkmchcd fOf obout 8

lAmon all h • • Sou''''', pog. 315)

(... Bla·Pot BIo""hlng,

Kosher soft

mlnute$. Of until tcnder

000 freshly ground while pepper

poo. 58), chilled In

Icc water, 000 drained

Un II ,'('('c'ltl 1I'Ip 10 I lnwu l l . I rmlnet Ih," '(' l'xc' l l l l I ", I II'\\' ruod " t o 1 I I I I'uellle,· to

fJlII' I(II('IIC'II, 'r',,'" ur IIII" H , 11101 lind

r"f,,,, 1 ! "," ('1'11 Hoyht'IIII".

" " .'

c.'oll,hllu·c! In

1 1 1 1 " c l I " " . (Tltl' 1 1 1 1 1'(1 WII'" r,'('"11 h" I U'IM o r

1'111111-"" '"

"'llh

I�

T he r t e n c h l(lu n d ty C o ol....looir.

"

pH"'"

70" M ul 1M II whll(' rl",h

101 or rill In I I . whll'l. I" tlUI""I1I,


I

n putting this dish together-one of my few nods 10 As.:'1l cUllun

I R U HO n [

I .....:mlcd to support the Integnty of the dish by usang other products

indigenous to the arca ..... here the fish IS cau ·ht. The fresh green

I port COHOh,

�Iccd

IcnQthwlsc on 0 n'lOndoIl/'lC Inlo Vlo·lnch·lhlck ,trip,

soybc;t"s ..... e found there wcrc am:l1.wg. Fresh soybc:uus come three to .:I

I

port turnip,.

�lct"d

�nglhwiso on a mondollnc Inlo Vlo·lndHhkk 'IIlp'

pod and arc :I lillIe smaller and a little falter th;an £3\'3 beans, wnh a

Ih port lC!'ek orccm (doril. oreen port)

slightly morc :1SSCrtl\'C n3\'Of. mit)' 1n3)' not be casy to fllld-somellmcs you' ll see them 31 farmers' o r As.3ft markets.) AmI I fuushed tlus thsh of

Brunolsc. \'I hal wc c311 our lin ellce of SI3))1t" " I:'t-\ctalJlc14. 114 u!lell oflcn I'IS

Hawaiian items With a Polyncsiau- IIUilHred orange- boulel) gl:11.c whh 80y

a g::mu8h al the French l...lumlry. llnlhcr Ih:m m:aklllg II Mlllnll cl uAlitily.

Sauce. I usc temple oranges because they' re vcry sweet and hn\'!! " dec i)

make a large hatch allti frcetc II.

orange color. but you can usc other oranges. If you can' , get mOl. you nught SUhSlllute Ilomp:mo or pike.

CUI all lhe \'cgttahlt8 I1lto III. - lIIeh Jullellne Slrl P" aml lhrll cut arros" to make III", IIlrh (licc.

About I hour heforc serving, pbce Ihe juhcnned

UI3nch r:lth \'eg�l:thl(' 8cparaleiy in lightly slllted hOlllllg \� ;tl('r 10 tlct

scallion, CourOI. nnd radish in a bowl of icc watcr. TIlc SC.1IlIOI1S ",,11 curl

the ('olor 311ti 8oflen Ihe \'rget3hl(,M. For 1i1ll311 amOnn11i of \'r�l"t!lhlcK, 11'8

and the chilling will enable Ihe \'egclablc8 10 hold 3 tighter neSI.

C381clit to pbcc the vt'getahlt'8 111 3 8Ir;\l11rr :lIul !Ullllllr.rge IlIl" strJllwr III

FOR THE SALAD

FOR THE ORANGE GLAZE

Pl:lcc thc orange JUlcc l n a small sauccp:UI

and reduce over medlllll1 heal to a duck glne (ahout III cup). Sct 31iId«:. FOR

THE

SOYOEANS

Combine the soyheauR. tom:I1O e..hamomls.

brunoise. and beurre montc In a pim and heat o\'er low he:lt. Keep warm. TO C O M P L E T E

IIcat the orange gla7.e to a simmer and wlusk III the

hUller piece hy JHece. Add the soy saucc :Inti kecil ihe g!:'l/c \\'arm. Drain the Iced \'egetables and loss lhcm \'o'ith the chm!s anti a small

Ileal aboul

ami plunge II mto ICC \'Ialer for 01 fc\\ hCCOllIls to clllll lhc \'egf'lahll'" nlltl tiel the rolor. Thcll ltft oUl lhe 8tralner .1nll l,l:&re the \,C/;l'llI l>lc'8 u n )l1l 1,er to\\c\S to dram. When all the \egcl;thIC8 art' IJInnchrd ,'11111 elr,lIncct, mix Ihelll togcther III a co\'ered COIl131 11('r 011111 rl'fn�t'rillc ror uJI 10 II day. For lonl)er IiIc)r.I�e. sprt'al! the clr;llllt"11 hnlllClUle on It tray nlll! plnrC' the tray III the fCCC'ICC uI1111 frmC'l I . Store Ihe fro/ell hnlliOIKt III It w('11 Iwaleel

amount of lemon oil. F O R T H [ MOl

Ihe bOIling \'I3ler. When Ihe \'q;ctab!c8 arc cooked, 11ft out Ihe (ilr,tlller

'!. Illch of 011 III a large "klllc'l o\'cr medIUm

plasllC bag 111 the:" frccu�r You C.1Il mie the hnllHHKe dlrt'ctly from the

heat. Season the fish \\llh S.J1t and while pepper. Add thc mal flllris dan

free/er In reclll(,s \II h("(' It Iii \'Iarrnrd IIl·fore "crvln�.

side down :'IIld cook for 2 to 2 1/z IIllnutcs. occasIOnally prcsslIIg dowlI on

" ' T U l t D Olj " "' Co t

the pieces with a spatul3 lo hc1p lJrowll lhe skill. Flip the fillets and "kiSS" (jusl lmeny cook) the other Side. then removc the mOl rrom the pall. Place 2 1 0 3 teaspoons of the or.1nge gl:11e 111 the center of cach plate. Placc ahoul I tahlcsJloon of the soylJC'an mixture III the.' center of Ihe glaze. :llIowlng 11 to sprcati wto the gla/t'. Place thl' mOl skill sidl' up o\'er the healls. Celltly pl:lcc a small l)llc of the crllil' s;1lati 011 OIlC end of c'aeh n101 fillet anti scn'c.

201


" F I S H

Heel M l i l ho, w J 1 1 l

PA L E T T E S

It

A N D

C H I P S "

Iln/t-lIt· II'" ''

/)011.1' u l l d G , . 1'1 h.' C h t P H

REO MULLET

'11 cup panko (Japanese breod Clumt»;

2 10'00 Of 3 medium heads QOrf/c. cloves

s.ee Source1, pooo

Conolo all

3 1 5) Of dry brrod crumbs.

finely oround In 0 blender and sifted through

..paroled and �ed (3r/, ou"",,) 5 hord·bolled egg yolks

1 2 red mullet fillets, skIn on

(sec On C,bping Skin,

a " ralner

pogo 147)

I '!, loblcnpoons unsoiled butler, $Oftcncd

PARSLEY COULIS

Kosher Mllt and freshly ground white pepper

Ko1her s.olr to IO\la

3 10 4 IorOC buncl.,. ( 1 2 ounccs) Itollon pa"Jey

PA R S L E Y S A L A D

'11 cup oll.purJ>OW flou,

I tablespoon Bcurrc Montc (poge 1 35)

1/. cup smoll Iiollon po�ley leaves

'I] cup heavy acom

Kmhc, sol! to loslo

1 teaspoon finely minced shollot Extra virgin olive oil

Pinch o f kosher so h Aboul 3 6 Garlic Chips

' O R T u r 'A L ( T T B

Pbc� the ,",urlie in a finlall ll:lUCt'P:1I1 Willa cold

should have aboul lh cup o( pllr�e. It can be rdngcro1tcd (or lip 10 2 days. l I eat aboul

'I.

Inch o( canola 011 In il large nonstick

Willer W cuver ;11111 !lrlug 10 a hoil. f)ralJl lhc g:l rlic i n a Klllali lltr.11IlCr.

TO C O M P L £ T [

1.:001 1111111·, cold WIlier. "ful rt'JU'i1t tht' I 'rOC(,'''I, H" ,U':lt :I tJll rcl lllllC. hut

likillel OYer IlicdlUlTI IlIgh heal (there should he enough 011 to come

liilh

Ihl" tilllf' holl IIII' garlic dOVt'ff ullIiI IIII'Y arc Hoft and th("rt' Iff no

about hal(.....ay lIJi the suicli o( Ihe (Ish), Scason the red mullel w l l h

rc"IHIMICt' "")"'" tllt'y Me plcrc" d Wllh fI Hl'Jlilli kl1lfc, Dralll Ih«· garlic

and white pepper. ;uhl Ihe (Illets skill side down and S3U16. prc8�lIlg

elm','",

,/, cup for tlit, fI:clelle,

clown on the pieces o( filih wllh a It:lrrow spatula or small skillet to keep

hlllll'r. and 1i:11t HI a 1111111 food

Ihem nal. WIIt'Il the fish 18 alrl108t cooked, a(ter nbout I nunlltc. turn the

UUIHh thc'III ItIiKhtly. :1IId IIIC:IISlirc (Jul

PIIlc,' IIII' garlic purl·c.

" IU; yolkH.

proc'('"tllJr IInci hlelul unlll ..IIwnlh. L'lle n 11111.'111 pan wllh p).11iIiC ",'rap

JlICCCB IO "kIlH,." or hneny cook. Ihe second lilde. TIlc 101.11 cooking lime

fllul Kpn'flcl llw IlIlxlUrt' in II. I n a IlJ Inch Ihlck layer. C.oyer :and frt'l'l.e

Will he ahout I liz mlnute8, "emm'e the (11Ie18 10 paper lowels 10 drain.

for ;wvt'rIll hount, UII1II tilt' rnu;ture IH 1101111. or UJl IU a f" w claYK,

Add the (({m:n Iwlel tt:s to Ihe pan and hrown (or aboul I minUle on

CUI Hix I 'h IlIc'la dlHkl1 from the: (roo' II garlic IIllxl urr, Place Ihe

cach Side. unlll CriSp nnd w.1r1ned through.

nour, ('reMII, IIwl enunh" III Ihree NI'parah' dUihf'K, DI I ' l':ICh .flsk mlo

M E A H W ti l l [ . F O R T H [ PA R S l [ Y S A L A D

II.,. nOllr. pl1ll1l1g 0(( any I'X('CKH, tht'll comp!t'ldy coat wllh cream and

fihallol" With a IIHIII coalill/:to( oll\'c 011 and the sah.

Toss llle par8lcy lc:wc8 and

dn!"Kt' ill the ('nlluhK, helllg c:lreful to coat cadi roulld cfllIlJlletdy.

Place the panlley pur'c III a slll:111 saucepan and re .....arm II. Check

HClhp a KI'c:onli 1 1 lilt' In Iht' crcalll and ('nullhK nnll n'turIl tllC' p:cll'lIeH 10

the conslstellcy: II shl>ulel lJe Ihat o( a sallce. I( It 18100 tlllck. thlll II with a lillIe walef; I ( II

IIII' (n'c'/I'r,

rOR

l ll [

PAR S L E Y

CO U l l S

DII1I'anl t ill' IHugh KtemH (rom the

ItarNlc'y. Y,III Nhoilid 11fI\'I' :lllIlIIt " JHlchd cUP" o( It'avrll :1 nil telltl,'r "Ielllii. BlIlIlC'h thc' JlMHI«'y (N«'C' Big Pot B1:III('IIIIIJ.;'. pagc' 5H) u n t i l tl'wlt'r ,Ind (('WOY" 11/

OncC' till' parHlry IN ('0111, clmln ll ;11111 'I< I III'C' /I, t lll' C'X('I'NII "'ilter (rolll lilt' mixtllre

10 I lI rn.

Hlcllli th,' l 'i1rlilry 10 Il purr" , SJlfI·..d IIII' "lIrh 011 .1

tnllllH (Hc'e l 'ilJ.;'C' 73) ami nllow to HII (or

5

IIIll1Ulrll to II ro'll II nny C'XCl'K8

11c l ulcl. Dlllrnrd Ihe liquid rlllcl paHN thr JlurtlC' through til(' 1;1111114. You

T h o r r o n , " L o u n d r y C o o l. b o o l.

Hi 11)0 thin, simmer hricny (heal can caUSe the pur�e to

change' color, fiO cook II ali !atllc a li pos8Ihle). Slir in the hetlrrc monl6 awl se.1KolI wllh Nalt In 1381e. 1'1:1('" 3 t1poon(ul o( Ihe parsley couhs 011 cach serving plate. CCnlcr a palclle 011 tlU' titlUCc anel cnlificrofill iwo rcd mullel (11I('tli. likIn 8Ide up.

a bnwi II( irr walt'r.

tile' lenvrll, Plac,· thc JlarNI/'Y In a hlc'IICIe'r W i t h J""t c'IIIJUK" "'au'r to :lllow

ISO

(recipe follows)

O\'tr coe('h Dill', Tnp Wllh a slack o( p:lrsley salad alltl garlic clllr8 :uul 8erYe IflllIlC'dltHcly. file T U lL t 0 0'1

' '' Co t

1 !J 8


G A R L I C

C H I P S

Gartic cloves Cold milk Canolo all for deep·frying

The unexpecled tiling ahout garlic chips IS Ihelr crispness, liolllrlllln� you don' t normally associate wllh garlic , Blanchmg Ihe hr:l rllc c10vcs III milk leaches oul some of lilt, lllttcrncss ami make" Ih(,111 N\\l'ctcr,

As

ChipS, garlic doesn ' t become so fono. arc! Ihal you ' re 11\'ln.; \\ lIh II for Iht, rest of the night.

Slice Ihe garlic c10vcs as dun as pOSSlhlt· on a lIlandol llw, 1)lact.' tlit' bhc('s in a small S3uccp:m anti cover \\1111 ('olel milk, Bring the milk 10 a hOll, then d r:l l n the garlac slaces III ;J blramt'r (tillic:ml the Hull) and rinse them unde r cold \\alt'f. H('turn tIll' b!JCC'Il to tht, pan and rt'lll'at tht' process three t l lll(,8, lIolng fresh IIlllk each tllllt', Pal tilt' gJrhc I'Illcl'b til) on pap('r 10\\ cis , Ht'at lht' 011 III a dt'f' P saucepali lO :W O° F, Add tltt' .,11('('s ICI thl' hot 011 anc! fry for

12 10

15 IIIII11Jtt'S, or 1111111 1111' huhhll'8 aruund lilt: c-hlps lIa\'.·

suhllHled (tuglllfYlng Ihal all thl' lIIultiturt· lIah «,\:I (l0rall'll) and tht·y an' a light goldt'li hra\, fl. Dr:lln thl' garl1l' dllJls OIl I':ll't'r tu.... t'ls S i o n' alrl lght 31 room Icmpl'r:1lun' for 1 to 2 tl:l) ti.


Tilt' " ('cI IHIIII('( I,.; J,l1'U l l fylllJ,l (n IIIIII(�·. I I I H I ,'ut . 0\1'" l i n t ! U\I'" UJ,{IIItI.

I t " " ,'Ie I ", 11111 J""'I

\\

1 1 1 1 1 IIUlkl'"

II,,· rl lI\'I H'''' or 1 1 1 1 the' 1'1" 1 1 11 ' 1 1 1 .. , hilt 11 1 ..0 t i l l ' \\II� t h e') lun'e

10,",,'1111'1-111,' 1·,'rI o r I I I I ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' 1 "J,{uhl'"

1 1 1 , ' IwlJ,{hl J,{ I" " 'I I plIl,.. Il·) " 01 1 1 1 .. lI",nl ..... Ih,'

1t·1I\'I',.. of lh,· PIII,,.. !t'y Hllllle!. I h l ' hl'II" II of I h , '

c ' l I l p,.. ,.. 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 " 1'. 1'"11'11,, !'j·t,·,·... 10 I h l ' ,.. 1111 1 '"

1 I I I x l l l l·C'. V'II' 1111'. ( I I I .. , 1 1,.. 1 1 I .. II .. c'I,,,o"

t,'h·tt

( I t ,11 .. 1"

pllll.IIt· .. . t h , ' \\11)' th,' ",11,'11"

ot Ihl' '1/1 (11111.1', "" .. ,"" "

I I I pl· ,'t" I' t I I " II Il" ''',

",II I'"''


160

Tho r , .. n c h L o u n d l y C o a l b o n "


Spotted SlultP

\\,In", w l l h DI'uhH,'d Ih ..· (1 Cnhhu J,tl' un(l M U "' l u t'd S u u <-'('

2 teaspoons flnety mlncrd chh�s

BRAISED RED CABIAGE

M U S TA R D S A U C E

l/� pound red cabbage

Conolo oil

Kosher soli and fre\hty ground block pepper

Jj� cup dry red wine

V� cup chopped leek

S K AT (

I tablespoon duc.k fOI. un�lted butter.

V� cup chopped mushrooms

1 1}z pound, S\.OIC .... ; ng. ,!oJn rCffiO'o-ed. trimmed of CMllagc and any ,cd oreos (hove thc

3 lablespoons chopped corral

or conolo all

Ih cup diced ('h·inch) red onion

Ih cup Veal Siock (page 222)

V� cup finely grated Granny Smith apple

I 10b'e1poon heavy cream

Flour 'Of dusting

VA cup While Veal Siock (poge 222). Vcgctah'e

10 10blC1poOf'1S (5 ouncH) uns.ohed buller.

Conola 011

Siock (page 227). Of WOICf

fishmong�r rClnlO\'\1 tho ,loJn)

Kosher soh

cut Inlo plcc""

2 leaspoons honey. preferably wildflower honey

I lh leaspoons Oljon mu\lard

Ih cup finely graled peeled russet poialO

I lh teaspoons grainy mu"ord

Kosher soh and freshly ground black pepper

I 10ble1poon Brunolse (poge 155)

I

like skate becausc of ItS ropy tcxlUrc, It' s an easy fish to cook. bccause it doesn't fall apart whcn cookcd al lugher temper-utlres. ancl YOll lhuli

Mustard Powd�f

(pooo 233)

II:UlIe. 811rrlllg oftc:n. ror 2 10 3 minu1(·Ii. o r ulllll lhc Vc:gt'lllhtt'K arc Ii�htl car:tllldl'lt'd Acltl the \c:l1 tlloc\... :llld tUlUlIlU for 5 10 7 IlllnutcM, o r until

ha\'e grcal opportullIty for cnspncss. I usc spotted. as opposc:d 10 rc:d or

the liqUId h:ls ((,llu('cd to a giact' 1\ClI1o\'c from Iht' hr:lt nnd lit't a!lhle,

gray. Lecausc il lS a smaller fish. Willi a marc compaci texturt',

f O R Tit( �KAT(

Cut the' Mkalt' Into (. rc('uUlh,,&1ar porllon" (nbout 3

ounce8 t'arh) . The plet'cd should he llhout :\ IIIcht'M lIy ,I IIIrhr", hilI tht' FOR T H E 8RAIHD R E D CA88AGE

I\emo\'e the IllICk nbs from the

actual "I1C "'III dcpcnd 011 the Itllck nt'88 nlUl lUll' flf the skutt' wlIIgl lflhc

cabbage and cut the lea\'cs Into cluffonadc, long narrow stnps ahout 'I.

Inect III \1'1) thm, )011 111:&)' nt'('ti to cUl largt'r 11I('('t'1i nml folll lhrlU m'cr,

Inch", Ide, Place thc cabhagc and red wlnc III a large 110\'0 I, toss together,

TO

co\'cr, :lnd rcfngcr:uc overlllght.

blllllll('r, Wlmk II) tilt' lIulIC'f I'u'cr hy ple('t', :ulchng IUlotllt'r IIIC('(' only

CO M PL l T I

II r thc ('rram 11110 the IIIUIiIOl nl ll.'l uc(, nntl lInll).; 10 n

Thc next day, prl'hCal lhc ovcn to 350oF,

OIlC(" II\(' I Ift'\ IOUII IJlcct' hall ht't'1I 1 1l('OrpOrillell Strilll1 tht." saUCr thruugh a

I n il deep o\'cnproof pan. ",arm thc duck fat O\'cr IIIcdlUm 10\'0 hl'at

clIlIlOIs (sct' llagt' 73) InlO a limall tiaucrl'an Willtlk III huth lIIutltant!l. the:

Add Ihe red 0111011 amI cook gl'nlly until II bcgllls to rdcanc liS hClllld. abOUI 5 IIllllulcS Stir III Ihe cahhagl' ami the fIlanll31l11g IIquul, till' applcs, and �ilock. Cow'r","h:t parchmcnliul (SCl' pagc 1 90), placc 111 tl1C' o\'('n, and conk for al10UI 2 hours. ulltll moSI of till' IlfluHI 113" ('\aporJII'd Hl'rIlo\'c the pJII from the OHIl, add Iht' hOllc and POI,CIO, and Kllr

hnllloific, �mcl <'1m ['8

('a!'lun 10 latilc \001 I Ih !ialt ;ultl pt' l'pcr :1IIcl k('t'p harm.

l\eh" ,11 tht' rrd c.I"hagc u\c'r 10h ht'al I tr,ll I,. lIleh of canub Oil III

II

large lialltl' ",III m't'r IIIc',hulII hrl&t,

Llghtl dunt r:ceh portion of Iik.llC' "'lIh nour, palling urf nny C')'('t'MM, alltt plact' ifi llII' hot 0,1

I'a�on Iht' fl�h \'0 IIh 8alt Jlltl (,ClO\... for 1

tu 2

IlItnLltetl,

hdi lo comlllllc, I f lhe cahbagehCl'IIIS dry. add I 4 CUJI of",atC'r He e()\t'r

haltllflK Illt' 1i�;III' 0['('a8IOnnll)

hllh Ihe parcillllc'nl l'aper and ((·turn 1U tll(' O\cll for an fllMlllOnal :m IU

o n Iht' flrNt liIIl" . Turn tlw flll('ll'Iallll ['ouk un Ila' �t'cc)1Il1 !llIh' fhr another

45 IlI UlUtcS, or lIlItli Illl' cabbagc' ;HIII POl,llOl'fI

IIIllIule, IIr \lntll tht, flllh Iii IlP:HI UI" throul{lHllI1 (t·()o\.dnl( 111111' \001' 111 V.II),

h'lHln ,lIld ha\'t.' a notlccal.)l' cn';1l1ll llt'n'i Theft' h lil lie' .lpprOlI1ll3tt'l) I I 1 cUllh of cahl'l�e fm.'

Sc:tbon to laSft' h Ith t;llt ami l't'l'pl'r TIll' ('ahhagt' ean lit' hlOrrd, (·CI\C'rI'cl. IIl lhl' rcfngrrJlUr for up 10 5 da)N FOP TH(

MU

TAJl D � A u c r

Itl'at ,I film of callula (1II m :l lIU'cliulII

\001 1111

the all. 1111111 till' fish 'M gol,lc'l1 hrown

dc'pt'lubliK UII thr tIIlC�'H'K!i (If Ihl" 11It'('(''')

Plalt'

fi)HlllnfuI 1/flht' MaIlCt' un t'Olrtl Nt' 1'\ 1 I11( I.latt' luI ' ", " h the red ,c hilt' of II1UhHml lH)\oOIII('r MJ\oOI 1i UIIC' r"lIt, of

eahlJ,IKt' .IIHI Nbtt, SpnnJ.. ' "

t',1rh plait' ,ifill M'f\I' IIIIIIWthah'ly

h:lUCCJlall o\'t'f mt'(Iiull! ht.':ll Add till' It'('kll, mUlihroolllN, ,lIlll ('afrutN .11111

n,h

16 1


' S U R F

A N D

T U R F '

S n l l l eC.'" �·foJlI'rtHh TuB w H h O,'nbtcd O x t n l l H . S U I H l fy. n ll d Cc:.·pCI-I

I teaspoon chopped italian parsley

SALSIFY AHO ctPES

8RAISfD OXTAILS

4 salsify (obour 8 oun=), pc<!ed

1 tablespoon

I lemon. halved

MONKFISH

FIoo, lor d,edg/no

3 WI>' Chicken Slock (poge 226)

Conolo oil

Kcntwrr $011 and freshly oround block pepper

2 .pr1g. Ihyme

Kosher solt and freshly ground white pepper

Ccnolo 011

2 doves oartlc, cru�

I qUO" Veal 510ck (pogo 222), healed

2 toblespoons ( I ounce) unsolted

I qua" Chlc""n Slock (pogo 226), healed,

Ccnolo 011

5 pounds aldolls.

cut Into

1 1J2·1nch·thkk piec.ft

I ,«/po Red Yn"" Morlnodo (pogo 190)

8 monkfish medallions about 1 Inch thick

2 tablespoons Beutte Monte (page 1 35)

about

Ih cup tomalo dlomonch

stems removed, cops deaned and sliced about If. Inch thick

Few dtop, whllo wInd vln090r

V. cup Scurro MontI! (pogo 1 35)

H

2 tablespoons chopped Italion parsley

't.. Inch thick, Of 1 6 shIItakes.

't.. cup Orunol$O (pogo 1 55) (wo pogo 203)

(about 2 OUJ'lCC'S coch)

bvn�

16 $.mOil c� (porclnls), deo� and slked

Of hOI waler

Beurre Mont� (poge 1 35)

I

lob/..poon B,unol.. (poge 1 55)

en', lhe lIIonk(lIlh iH 80 lSolu.! und 8I1hIUanti:ll lh:11 i1 C.3J1 lw()pon the

impurities h3ck illto the liquid ralher than separatillg them.) Skim and

rlehne,,,, or the OXHJiJlS. ami the comhl1l311on of (18h ;and nch

discard the IIII IlUnlle8 and olher parllcles a8 they rise 10 the surface. Remo\'c from the heat.

Imll,lt'ci Hlettl r<'flulrlS I n !l ve'l)' c,1 rthy dlldl. Scaring Iht' 1111:;11, then ,,10"'" cooJ,ollK II 10 eKlr;1ct IIIJ na\'Ord and ,hotlC of thl' vCKr"'''It'1i inlo Ihc "rnising liquid r':liul!l i n a "falling orr

Prcheat the OVen 10 325°F, Place the nour 111 :1 dish. Pat lh(: oXlalls dry and dredge Ihem in the nour Just to coat. Lightly season Wllh salt and pepper. lIe..t If. I Ilch of 011

Ihl' holU'" tewIC'r!lf'1i1i illlcl lIlc'al lhal lllt'llll In ),our rnoulh. MUllkfhill IHlII :1 hl!{h lolf'ranct' for ('ookl ng-i( )'ou m:1th'Crh:l1ll),

In a large deep pot o\'er medIUm heat. (The amollnt of

ad

rnay seem

nv('(couk h, h ",'on ' l he caltullroJihic ;11111 .... hen Ih.: fl8h 11118 per(tCI

eXCeIlSI\'c. hilt 11 ..... 111 kcep lhe mc'al (rom hurn,ng-and slidangto Ihe pan,

CIOIll'IH'IIII, 1I 1e-lIdll 10 hnng Ihere for .. .....hlle. SIVlllg you some Ict:",'a), i n

The lI1('al ""III ahsorh ollly a certain amount of oll .. nd I( YOU don ' , usc enough, the nOllr may hurn alltl llllpan a lultcr n;l\'or.) Add Ihe oxtails 10

illI l'onklng I hllc.

the hot 011. 10 halche8 If necessary. OInd 8car Ihem on one sule.' ulllil they Dh·jdc the OXI:1I18 hct .....ccn IWO

reach a nch deeJi brown color, 1)0 not hurn the nour. but allow the

n'lIl'fllnhll' plnllilc hngll nnd adel hnl( the manliluic 10 (Oleh of them. Sr.11

o�lallK to bro",'" hcfon' allclIl)lllng 10 1II0VC them around. Then tiC.1r the

r O J(

T il E

U Ji A I S l D

O X TA i l S

tllf' IIIIW' nnd pln('" Ihl'lII III till' rdrtgl'r;llOr for

18 to 20 hourA,

tlirlUllg

IlwlIl I)II('C' nr 1.....lrc' 10 clllllniJulc' Ihl' 'IHlrln:ulc, Thl' IIt'XI dn)'. tr;lIIl1(cr tht' 1IIl','" to Ollt' ('onl'lIner Mul tllt' ,'cKc'lailleli tel :l lIlIlllI'r. Str!!11I lilt' 1IIi1r11I1Ii1C Ihrough .. towt'l Iincd 8It\'(' InlO a tlIlIlC"lliHl. (Thill

162

mc;!1 on all liUles, lurnlng ocCo16lollally; cv(!n urowllIngwllI add coloralld na\'or to tile braiSing IIqlllll. Once Ihe oxtalll) :1((: cOlllplelely browned, relllo\'e Ihelll (rolll the pot

0(;111) Ihe 011 (rom

the pan, IcavlIIg any lillie

rrusty partIclt's on thc hot tom of the pall,

Ihl' (1(111 IIIt'p I I I Ihl' dan(I("IIIOIi flroeclill, 10 Olilal!) a

J\dcl lht' rt'servcd "('gelallll'8 (rolll IIII' lII:ml1atll' 10 Ihe pOl. Serai'll'

rll·tllI. rlc'ar 111111('(', I'nurlllK II through lilt' 10M"1 rt'II\O\'Cf! IIOIllt' of 1111'

the "glilze" (rom tht' holtom of I he.' pot and cook the vegelables. sltrnllg

1110011 nlld OIh('r IlIlpurilit'lI lhat ('ould rlo",1 til" 11I1 U111. 1)0 1I0t ..... nl1golll

occaslolI:llly. '0 r,",case Ihclr IIWIKlur(', 3 1 0

Ih(' tCl",'ri! Iht' 1!IIIHlr!!it'" ",oule! Ill' forct"11 had.. 11110 Iltt' 11I111Id,) Slo",ly

Ihe 1lI0Uil urt' haR e.·\'aporatc·t! OInt! the 1 '01 18 rcgla1.cd,

I"

01

IUlIlUtt8, Then cook lIntal

hl'lIt Ihc' mnrinadc IU rt iU IIIIIlt"r. ( l It'illlIlg lilt" IUluid \\111 COilh'ultilc Iht'

Orglan' tht' pOI It) atldlllg Ihe clanfll'll marlnallng hlJUld ;Hld

rt'l1ulillillK IIlood prolrlllK, 1.111 lu�ntlllg 100 'I'"ckl)' ilia), pull lilt'

IlIlrrllll; agaill. Hedllcc unlll 111061 of Ihe marlnallng I"pud has

T h a F , e n c h l d u n d f 't

Cookbook


I n \\ hit· .. w,' pull' IIlt'UI ntltl th.h-

lul".h'l· \\ Ith tnll' I:I'U"', Inh,.."'I' \\ IIh

h . IInpU1'11I1I1 I h u l Ilu' h'�I\lI"" " tllltl'l

o..:lulI ... nutl II,,· I"unllth.h UI""

l't'cI

1I 1t'1I 1�'.

" Itlt' "I"H',- I hn l (·lu .... "·nll,- pUll'"

\ \ l l h \ \ 1 1 1 h ' tltth.

Place the K:lllilf) 111 a 1I.,ucepali. SI IIIC'CLC III l!al'

evaporaled. (Hcglaling Ihe pot adds YCI anal her la)er of color and

fOR T H (

Inlenslty of na\or.) Add Ihe hot stocks. (TIle \'caI 610ck 18 tllC n3\'Or base

IClIlon JUice ::and adel the 1C'lUon hahell along " l 1 h Ihl" III0ck, I 8prlg of

of Ihe bralslJlg liquid and the c1l1ckt-n stork or waler " III thlll 1)\(,· \e.,1

thymC'. and the garlic. SIIIlIIll'r for 20 to

slock enough for such long cooking.) Add the lI1t"al to the pot and co\'cr

IlI len1lC'r, dram,

with a parchment lid (sce Jlage 1 1)0), Bring the 11I)l1Id bark to a 61111111er alld 1}lace in the o\en

10

br.usc for 3 1 'l to ·1 hour8, Wht'n the II1C3t III

S A- n i H

25

1I1111\1tl"K, or unlli thc K:,I"lf'

Cut IhC' .al8lfy plccell ICllhr-th\Htlr III half allll lhl'u ,'ul IhclII Oil Ihr bl38 1nlo 1 l Ilt'h long P lfCt'II,

cooked, It Will be f:alllng off the bOlle and cornplctd) fender. AI 11118

TO C O M P L t T[

pOint. the oxtails can be lIst'd Illllllcdlatd' o r cooled to roorn

salslf)' »1C'(,C'8 anet Ihe re'lIIallllng K l'rl� of lit) rnt" Utili ('ook, IOIlKlIIg

temperature and then refrigerated for up 10 oJ days,

OCC.lKloIl311)" forahuul 10 IlIlnUIt'K, III1I �I III('d Itrowlll'Cl. l\t'I1UI\'(' frolll

Remon' l he oxtails from the Iuplltl. arlit "hell thc) arc' cool enollgh

Ihe he'.ll

to h:mdle, pull the lI1t'at from the bont's nlC Yield" III dcpend on Iht" cui of Ihe oxtallll: some scCllons h:1 \c a grt'al de:ll 1II0rc: IIlt.1t Ihan ol hC'nl,

Ilcal lhe butle'r III a lIIetliuI11 "killel IInlll hOI. AtM th!'

Mran"lulC', hC':t! a film of 011 III another 111e'lhum "killet :\lul ,mulf Ihe (,(op�8 unlll th�) arC' \'Idl hro\'lnrct Atlll lht'lI\ 10 th� Imllilf 1 I t';" I . Inch of 011 1l1 ;a large 111.. 1111'1. St'3I1UIl tit,· 1II0llkfiKit with tlillt

You Will need 2 CUJlb of mcat for Ihl6 recipe: exira meat call he rC6('n'ec1

3ml "hilt' jlt'JlJlcr. atltl lo tllc pall, aIlI 1 811111(' OH'r llIt'tlllllll hlKI t hrat for

for :llIothcr U6C, Slr:lIn the hralslng hquIII Ihrough a

111 11:1 eap (sct" pagt" 73) or

tHr;lIIlt'r and 1('1 It sn for 10 IHlnult'h 10 gl\C Ihe f3t a rhallct"

10

ht'paralt"

and Wie 10 the 101) I\t'1II0\C Ihe fOil, plart" tlu' rt'lIl:ulllllg h<)1I1t1 HI a

3holll 3 Ilunules, Ih(,11 IlIrn Iltl' m�clalllOlIll to eook for all tulll ltlOllal

2 IIlIllUlt'1i ,\tlll the 2 tahlcspoonll IH'urrc'

1110111(0 10 the ,tan, hallIe' thl'

flllh , anti aliI I I 13111t'lipoon ('huppt'li p;arlllt' t, Me!HI\'IllIlr, ,tiM hnuHuKt'. 101I1l11H ,1 a:tlllonclK , " l ItcHar. nll,1 Iht,

IIICtillUIl S:HI(,(,'l'an , :lIld IHlIIlI\Cr tll (('dUCl', Whl'lI lhl' I':tll tit't'lIls !Oo Iar�t'

t'UP

for Ih� amoullt of hqlllli. stram lilt' bau("f· through a ('ltlllOI" (M'C paw' 73)

'6

I lito a "mallcr 8aucl'p:tn, " llhout forclliK :111) partlrlcfi Ihrough thc lilt'\ C

: 1'3nile , ami ht'urrr rnorui· 10 thl' li:lllllf allli e�pC II, allli \\arlll lhroul;h I'lacC' ... ")loonf,,1 of th(' 0)'1011111 11) Ihe' ('enlt'r of ('arh platt, Tul' e.1('h

Continue to reduce' Iht· bauee UIIIII II Iii I to 1 1 2 rupli 5tr;1I1I a fln:tl l l lllt' 11110 ;1 8:IlICepilll :IIHI :HltI lhl'

«�scnt'<1 2 CU I'S of fIleal SC'I abllir

IlI'urre' lI Io . uf 10 Ihl' OXl311s ,lilt! \'Iarm Ihroll�h Alit! tht' hn.1II01Kt',

,, " h a monl..f llih lUt'tl.tllton olHl �,lTllllilt till' top "lilt Ihl' K,lllIlfy alill Ct'Jlt'1i Sprinkle \'Ilih Ill(' rrtnallllllKChfJl'l'l'd pandey

rh"

163


1 64

Th. F,.nch Laundry

Cookbook


I

n

fused 0i I5

The Imponant thing to know about

.uch II

curry oil, don't �quire �frlgcnlion, "Hard" herbs. luch as

infused oils I' that you must treal the oil like the herb. spice. or

thyme and rOlemu)', don't hlwe a lot of color. 10 we "dd Illlfsicy to the

vegetable ""ith which you infused h.

mixture for color. BeCAuse of the.e herb,' aSlerti\'e Oavon, the n,,\'or of

For herb-infused oils. big-pot bl.nching (sce page 58) Is critical.

the p3r1ley IS not :an illue,

as Is shocldng. or chilling. the 1001,,(& in ice water to stop the cookmg-

We. use infused olla bec<lullc they "rc \'IIUlllly exciting And llC"CAUIiC tllcy

all tholc things thaI are fundamenlal lo cooking a green vegetable are

IIdd A ne:"" dlmen,non to the: nil\'Or of the herb, lip Icc. or \'cgc.l"lJlc Hadf,

similarly important to makmg an herb-infused 011 . h's prefera.ble to

For mltance, I c:an 8en'c :. pilnley .Alild and Il JlArtlcy 011 on tha 8nme Jllntc

use herb oils nght away. though they C3n be refngented. Spice all,.

without being repetitive III texture

A.. '\ Ilh grc('n \ cgctahlcs:. It III cruCial th:u the water mount:un a constant

remove lilt' IItO I'JlC"f to :1110W Kome air III, (You IIllly see tllc:uU rlllt' from

boil ",hen you blanch the herhs. TIle more wau:r you USc, the morc likely

the opcl1Ingl fdctlon la c3uKing tli(' Jlur t' 10 heat up,) Check the 011

it is that the w3tcrwm maint;un liS heal.

occnslon:llly I t "'Ill bccomc IIhKh l ty "':trm. hut I I ahoultt lIot gt't too hOi.

Bnng a largc pot O( S3hcd wiltcr to a boll. UKC

or there will lJe .omt· 1088 of color If At nny 1'0ll1t III the recipe, the

about 1/. cup of kosher salt for every quart of water. Place the herhs In :l

J1l:acllllle or 1I1 I )l: l lI r(' ovcrhrntll, IIto ll lht' 111I1I:: 11I1IC", relllove' Iht horll

FOR

ALL

HERB

OILS

strainer and dip them Into the water for the allotted lime, keeping the

pur�e, arlll rdrigeralc uI1111 cool Clean IIi(' mnchine, fe'lUrn the cooled

water 3t a strong bOIl. I\cmove the stramer and Immediately plunge the

puree to II, Ami conllllU(' 10 hlt'lld. Aeltl half uf the rt'1I13irllng lIerhs to lin: IIlncillllC a nt l "lcUlI for

blanched herbs mto an ICC water bath to chfll. Drain the cold herbs and squceze as dry 3S posslblc. Use SCI580rs 10

anOilier 2 IIII11UIt'Il, Ilirn atld lIlt' reJllnilllllK hcrhs lUlil hlellli for 2 1II0re

cut them InlO small pieces (chopping some herbs c3useslhem to oXH.ll7e

mlllutt'8 "(,100\'t" the purf(' to a ('onuunrr :lIlc.l n-fnKeratc fur a1 If'Al n II

and darken).

dllY to IIltt'llIi1fy the ('olon lhe pllr�t' call IIr Htort'tl for up to I week. Ollce

Place half the herbs In a blender with enough of thc speCified 011 JUSI to cover. (All of Ihesc recipes except the h3611 Oil, �llIch uses ol!\'c oil,

81raml:'d, Ihe 011 "'llI lIorlJl3l1y discolor in

2

tI"y", It ('an In' fro/c'u for

8<:\'crJl �t'd:Ij:, hO"'t'vrr, wllh IIIl11lrnal loKii of color !lnd navor

call for c3noia all. Depending on the ehsh you �11I he )lrrparlng.

1)lac,' 11 IHrcc' of cht'('sc'rIOlh nvcr a ceull.liner :",cl lI(cure wllh a

however. you may want to usc 01 1 \( 011 for some of the otherli, titlch as the

mhherhalld or "trlng_ Place th{' IHlr�(' on the: dU't'KrclOlh arlil ict the 011

Meli lterra nt' an CIUihcs,)

flit.'r through for :ahout nn hOllr I>lIlc;ml lhl' ch('f'sl'c1oth mill remaining

Turn on the blend r to medium 8)1c(.'d and 01110'" tht' herlJli to blrluJ for a

purrc tlon't wring out Iht' chres,·clolh, or YOIl fIIay dUlul 111f' (HI.

rosemary or thyme other herbs that \'fork In

minute 10 hegln the: proccsH, If Iht, hrrhlJ :aren't t urnlilK frc,·ly. add

Ot' I.rnehngon tllr 311lountyuu arr making, a"el the Kilt' of IIII' cnnllullt'r,

slightly more 011 fiO that Ihey '" I I I Turn tht' Kllc('d 10 hlKh Drut CUI1IlJlUt' IU

YOIi lI1ay lIl'ed 10 tlo till" 11\ halchf'll, Ston' t)1C' UlI III t)lI.' rcfngc'rittor (M

2 UHnute's. If lour hh'nder has a hole 3t llit" lOp,

frc'('/(' 11) f1l1t II 11110 n Iinlall l.IA"lIc tHIUl'C'/t' hcml(' ror W'rnlstulig tll"heft,

blend for anOlht'r

fhh

16S


PARSLEY OIL

ROS£MARY OIL I cup (01Cmory IcovC'S

4 cups Italian porllry sprigs

2 WPJ Iiolion porlJcy sprios

About 'I" cup conoCo oil

Aboot I wp conolo all

BLANCHING

8 L A t� C U I H G

TIM[

TlM(

J 5 aeconda

H08cm:uy. 30 Iccond'l lhen ..dd thc parsley and

continue fo III.1nch ror anolher 10 second. BASIL OIL FfNNfL OIL

3 pocked cups basil leoves

Abou1 l/" cup olNe oil 2 (uPS fennol f,onds

BLANCHING TIM(

J 5 Bcconds

2 (uPS italian pauley 'pOos

,. A U S " l O U T

'I)

CU'

"" A . U S A I O U T

' 13

CUP

About J/" (UP conolo ofl BLAUCUIUG

TIM(

HOlh Ihe fennel fronds ..ltd I'3I"8Jc:y. 1 0 10 15

M I N T

O I L

tu!ctUlllK

4 pocked cups mint IMVes About l/" cup conOOJ oil C U I V E

BLANCHING TIME

O I L

J 5 sccondB

I podtcd cup chlvos cui Inlo '.Inch pieces About I (UP conolo all n L M� C U "� G T l M f

wit'e'r

THYME Nom ' , place the chive. III ,.

8.r.1 Incr; uHi

OIL

nm hot

uvcr Ih"l11 ror nhollt 2 IIIlnlltt:K to Hoften ami remove the

If" cup thymc IcovC1 and tcndcr stems

3 cups hollon parsley sprfgs

(Ohlurophyll tlUue

,.10 1( 1 )

"lOUT

'/]

CU'

Aboul VA cup conolo oil BLANCHING

TIM[

'nlymc. 3 0 8cconds; then add the: parsley and

continue to blanch (or anolher 10 scconds "" " U S A I O U T

'h c U P


C U R RY O i l

CARROT OIL

II, cup curry powder

1 cup callot juke (hom about 1 V, pouro<h couo,,'

3 tablespoons coriander �

3 tablespoons conola 011

One Vl- to J/,·lnch,long plcce cinnamon stick

3 tablespoons moce

Vegetahle 01111 are c;uuly m;ute by colllblnlng3ny r('lillertl \'rgrt3ble Juire

1 V, leaspoons cayenne

wllh 3n ('(Ill:'! poruon of Oil ,

1 cup canolo oil

Heduee Ihe rurOI JUIce III " 11111311 g.,uccp;m to 3 t3h!rliJlonulI, Slr,.ln

Toast the curry powdtr :md cOfl:mder IIcetl in separale slnall P:Ultl.

Ihrough 3 8111:11 1 clunolM (gee' 1'3Hr 73) or fille lIIt'it" ittraill('r nlHl piner I n

hC:llingjust unlil you get an aroma, Hemm'c rrom the heat. comhlne wllh

.1 J1111l1- hlelltl(.'r w i t h I h e 0 1 1 . iUelll' for " lI11nut('

the cinnamon slick. mace. and cayenne l i l a coffee grinder. and K"fllld 10

emullilry, Tralltlrer to a dlll:tll ('01113111('( and ilion' in Iht'

a powder. Hcmo\'c to :l small bowl and stir In some or the 011 to moisten

to {'omllllle 31111

r('fn({cr.lIor,

"' ''' ' ' 1 •• o u t II) c u P

thc spices, Placc the SIHCCS 111 the hlender with the rcmallllng all ami blend, Pour into a ('ontaillcr and let sit for a day,

CORAL Oil

Sirain lhc oil through cheesecloth- lined fine- mcsll lllt\'C and store in an airtight containcr al room temper:I1ure ,

3 toblC1pooni loinler COI'ol (roa) M "' k, I S

", . a u t 112 c U P

liz cup conota 011, IlCOled Coral 011 t':1II lit' lIIalic \\ llh

frt'lih loh"tt"r rUt'. o r Ih(' ro" call

II"

a{'Clllllllbled twa .. pt' nod 0(1 11111' ralltl hpl fro/rll unlll )'1111 have rl lollj.th to mala' l lIt' 011 I'lal'(' the lotllilt'r ('oral III n IIlellllt'r alld hl('lul rur 20 HI :W KC'('ClIltht, or UlIllI IIIIIOOlh Wllh Ihe lIIarlullt" nllllllll).; 011 10\\ " 1,(,(,,1, ,Irli/lt' In tilt' hUI

011 Irwrt"abl' ln IlIl{h "'II(,(,tl ,tllIl COIIII IIIII' 10 bl" 11i1 fnr 15 to 20 IIIl l1ut('". Iil0JlJlIIIH 10 K('(.l l w do" 11 1111" Kllirtl OI'{'.IMllillally. Till' uil will COIlI! tIllI' hl'31 lit tht' b1(,lul,'r

rWIII fn('11(I1I ,11111 " Il l t.lkr on

Itt

is (('d ur,ll1Hl' " Cllnr

(till' ('Ural \\ 111 (I·11I3111 1I:1r1.. ) , ,.11t' IO IlH,'r )011 nlll llll' hJ r,,,tll'r, lilt' 1111)(('

,'olor Ihl' 1111 \\111 1;11.." Oil, hUI ill' ('an'rul lillt to CI:IIIHII{I' IIII' hh'IHI,'r hy h\t'rhr,IIIIIH II

Slr;lIn lht' lui liy IHHlrJlIH Il lhfflllJ.;h a ch" I',!C'dlHh l!twlt filII' IIII'Mh bll'\f' lutua COlll;1I I1,'r, (;o\l'r Iht, cui allll liW(I' 1 1 111 1111' rdnw'r;atllr, M ", o 1 1

l

----- , .

.

-�

1Iff "" - ---- � �---

... . a u t II,

'0

Ih C U P


I

110

Th ill F , ,, n c h l O IH' l d , ., C o M . b o o �


The

I m portance

o f Tr u s s i n g

Chicken

Not long after I left Roland Henin's kitchen, I was hired to open a new restaurant in West Palm Beach called the Cobbley Nob. It was my first real executive chef position. I cooked classical French food. I W38 \'cry proud that I h3d 3 repertoire of fifteen different cla"l�l pol.1l0

didn't know ho"".

prcp:lralions. I cooked c"'c�1hing m clarified butter. I cooked lobster

TIlankSbrJ\'ll1g I h3d no ulea wh:n I Will doing. Pierre w!ltcht'd me,

Bohemian-lobster with cream and paprib-which \\'38 straight oul of

couldn't underal3nd. Ite .Iuted acre:unmg at me. lIow cO\lhl llomeone

Femand Point's book.

M.'! C.lstrollomic.

But the Cobble)' Nob. which was

I

fumbled around.

I

tied Ihe It'gtt together. like at

who'd been a chef 1 Will t", elHy· four al this POI1\1\ in I�riln('e jl ('oak

near the jai 3131 courts. died .. qUick dc.uh, Jnd t learned that the quallt)' of

learns 10 trual 3 chicken bdore he', oM enough to dnv

the food docs not necessarily determine the success of .. rcsI3ur;ml.

d:mn

Fortun.llely. J found another Job not faT from there 3t 3 restaurant called Cafe du PaTe In

orth P:llm BC3Ch. where the most Important

thing [ learned was how to truss 3 chicken.

lie

how could

to be 3 chef of :anything. and lIot kno"" how to truaR ('hleken?

I

lie

became lo en�ged he thre",' the kmfe al me. I don't think he .....:u uiming for my hean, but Ihe klUfe came eloISe enough What that taught me-that chicken. the luring. the whilllllng knife

Is lcarning to truss 3 chicken that important? I W38 almost luabbed

bl:lde-""al that if I \\.11 going to be a ('h('f aomrwhu(', I'd bettt'f be

because I didn' t know. The chef, Pierre, was payms me five or SIX dollars

prepared to teach people ('\'cI')1hing they neetled to know to nlll that

an hour, It was just 111m and me, settlllS ready to open the restaurant for

lratchen. I no longer took it for granted that I knt'w c\·el')'lhll11.;. I needed

the 6eason, Again, a classical French chef. And there I Wal, 1I11s

to really, really ltudy ;lIld learn :\11 thOle thing-IS, ho\\' 10 Inllil a chicken ,

American kid who thought of hllnself as a chef. I'd been 3 chef. I 'd

how 10 tie a Ilipkn01. I klle\\' then I coultln't l'all m)'aelf a chef IUlSt

gotten good revie....s . at the Cobbley Nob.

bcc.au5e I r.an 3 kllchen. I n the end, of ('ourlle. Ille Imporlance of tnlllsing

Pierre told me to tmss the cllIckens. I wasn't going 10 tell him I

TRUSSING AND

:1 chicken mea lit far more than aCHlally '"'tllli ng:t chicken.

ROASTING CH ICK(N

Posuion Ihe chicken 60 that lis Ca\'II)' facel )'ou.

Mau1tallllng tenllon on the fitnng, turn the

Place the ce'Her of a 2- fool - Iong pIece of

chicken on liS Side. \\ uHl the ends of the IStTlIIg:

butcher's stnng benealh 'he chlcken· 8 t:ul. the

over Ihe neck. aud lie securely

lutle tnangle al lhe haltom of the ca\fny. Lift

I cook the legIS, the JIloilllt'r the hrt':II1i1 �'i11 he. E\'en 3 Jlt'rfecily roadtecl chicken will Ine\,II:1hly rrlult In a breast thill ' " n lhtle It'''"

TrulslllK a elucken thllS \\ay \\111 help II

malin than Ollt )Oll \\oultl cook "cparntely.

I alw3Y" W;"IIl I it "auce with rOllin

the 8tnng up outSide cach leg and Dull II dO\\J1

cook more e\·('nly. al II shoultl prolect the

between the legs. rC\'er8Ing tht' dll(,(,lIon of

IJuunest P3ft of the hre:uil, the pan that

each end 10 thai the) crOSI, I'll:! II" blnng o\'er

likely 10 o\'rr('ook dUring TO:l8l1ng I like 10

the 1):111 :11111 rnrnmell1n \\hlle wailing Il lhe

Ihe Ihlghs (tllc drumsticks should sqlleeze

rO:UiI a chlCke n .1 1 a lugh lemperature', ht' t\\ct'n

\'cry bell' tlUblSlMICC for fl:l\'oring n ('hlckell

togelher at II1IS POInt) and tilt' \\Ings.

4250 and

·150°f'"

III

\\'hlch III \\'hy most

bt'C3U6t' I \ e founcl the f;uilC'r

durken 111t' IIklll lhnt Itlck. to Iht' hOllom of

s:auce or JUll


I l o u l n d o or Po J d n D u o ', UrcuHL w i t h C,'cll,ncd Sweet \V h l t c Corn n n d MOl'cl M u s h r'ooJn Snllce

o

ROULADE OF DUCK I whoIo

'I, cup 'Quick' Duck Souce (page 228), wormed

CREAMED CORN

t.. dud< I><oo.t (about 1 2 ou""",) bonele

(Uberty Volley 0< Pokln)

5 Iorgo eon COfn, 5hudted

I teo,poon finely minced Ihollot

4 112 tobhnpoon$ (21/.. ounces) unsolted buttet

1 teaspoon finely minced chives 1 tecnpoon finety minced italian parsley

Kmhctr oolt and IrMhly oround block pepper

Kmher JOI. and IrMhly ground block pepper

A low all.pi<e berriot

M O R E L M U S H R OOM S A U C E

2 Ioroo out., loa_ IOVOy cobbogo or 2 Ioroo

oil

IGOY.. Swl.. chord (with no .pI'" 0< toon)

T

hh ' dish

ounus motel" proferobly Oregon

, .able>poon 8runol.., (pogo 1551 Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

3 table>poon. ( " t, ou""",) unJOlted butter

Iff inlercsting to me from a mechanical siandpoini.

end toward the bottom. Carefully cut the large rib from Ihe IC3f.

I nceded to figure OUI how to cook and serve duck in a W3Y 1l13t was

11011 . duck bre.s, lengthwise to rorm . cyl inder. PI.ce the cylinder

didn't wal1l

of duck in the center of thc widest pan of the cabhage Ica(. Tri m the Icaf

.ult.hle to the .tyle .nd I'0rtlon .Ile orthe French '-.:Iundry. 1

to rmun the duck hre,ut whole 3nd then cut It, hecause it lends to bleed

80 Ih:1I it i8 rhe length of the breast and so that the leaf will easily wrap

out-all its juice. go right mto Ihe "uuce th.:u hall hccn painstakingly

around the roulade once.

deWca"cd and reduced 'lIId hrought 10 perfection. I tried making 3

Roll up the duck hre3s1 in the le3r. PJace the roulade in the center

h didn't have thc exactness I w3nted. So

of the bottom of the Ic nbrth o( plastic wrap. Roll up the roul3dc in the

ragout of duck hrealll, hUI

I decided to try cooking It I n . hag wrapJllllg the hrca" In • hl.nched

p13811e, holding it in the center and rolling as tightly a8 possible.

lear or ••voy c.lohage or Swl •• chord .nd roiling It up tightly In pl.stlc

J l oMing the roul3dc, twist one end of the plastic wrap scveral

111(: corn gami'!h 1 8 logiC.l1 hecause

time8 against the duck. This w,lI sccure the shape of the roulade.

p

wra . 11'8 preciAc and callY to cook,

duck" nre corn .. fcd, Awl thc morcls .:Ire very canhy, you can 31moSI

Hepcat on the other side, twisting in the opposite direction. You

neVtr go wrong iHldinK lIluKhroOfflH 10 anything.

should h.vc 0 perrectly sh.pcd cylinder. Bring hoth ends of the wr.p over 10 the ccnlcr o( the roulade and tic them in 3 knot pulled just tight

nemovc anddlsc.ud thc akln rrol11 the

enough to rest against the roulade. Hepe3t with the remaining hreast

duck hrctll il and cui it In hair. Itcmove the Icnderlolll (rom Ihe undcndde

:md leaf and place the p3ckcts in thc refrigerator. You can rcfnger.1te

F O R r U E A O U L A O [ Of D U C K

or each hrc,uu (r('llerve It for nnOlitcr U8f') anci lrim away nny mcmllrOUics.

them (or several hours heforc cooking.

veinM, and cnrtllaKc. Trim the ends of the mcal to (orm it reclanb'lIlar

FOR T H E C R [ A M E D CO R N

flhnpC'", Sprinkle the undenhlc of rOlch hrealll with "alt and pepper 3ud

them through a juicer. Or. place them 10 a blender with a little water

grind 5 to (, ,,,"nil "liven of alltlplce over c3ch piece Cn lumd ·crank chccse

(jUlIl enough 10 allow it to blend) and purc'!e: remove the purc'!e and all the

grater work" well for thill If you clon't hovt':m allspice water). Bring n pot of Mlted walrr to n 1.011. A.M the c.,hh"ge or SWi"B ch:lftl leavell and holl gently (or :1 to " mirHllcH. or unul lrndc::r, CCIHly rCIJIO\'c thc Icav..." to an iCC-WlUf'r h:l1h 10 chill, Ihcli tr.&ndcr 10 p:1J1cr lowdN 10 dry, TCRr or( n piece of plnHllc wrap tllIou.

172

20 IlIchc" 10nK ilnd lay I t

CUI Ihc kcrncls from

3 ear8 of corn. Hun

liqUid to 3 clunois (sce page 73) licl over " cont3lOer. Allow all the corn Juice to dr.1In. prcslling lightly on the corn hut not (arcing the puree through the str3Ulcr. You should have ahout liz cup of corn jUice. Cut the kerncls from the remaining 2 cars o( corn. OIancil thc corn in lightly sillte,1 hOlllng water for 3bout I minute. skimming of( any

horizontally acro,," a work "urfnce. Place n lenf of cahhage or chard on

Impunlles thnt noat to the lIurface. Drain Ihc corn and cool In cold

n clltling hoarel, with Ihe In81dc o f Ihe Irnf (:lelng uJlwurd "l1Il llae core

walen then dr3in 3b"3ln 3nd dry the kcrnels on p3Jlcr towels.

Th. F , e n c h L a u n d , y Cookbook


FOR

TH[

M O R E L S Trim the stems from the morels. Soak the

Ihe morcls and heal th rough. JU8t before "erving. :\lld the 8hnllols.

mushrooms in .....arm water (If vegetables th:lI need to be soaked arc

dm'ts. ('3raley. and brunolsc ,lfHI cook for

going to he cookcd. use ..... arm .....ater, 018 II looscns tJin more eaSily

from the hcat :1I1t] lil'llrl

than cold). changing the ..... ater

Station to laSle ..... lIh 1311 ami peppper.

'.....0

or three times, If the mushrooms

are small. they can be cooked ..... hole. Larger morels should he cut into uniform pieces. TO C O M P L E T [

In

11

fe..... second", Hemo'o'e

tht remairunK 2 tahlc8poonl of hutter.

In 3 he.:",y snucepan . ..... hisk Ihe corn Juice oyer medium heal unlll it tlllckenli. mle slarch present I n the corn-corruuarch w11l CAllie

Jlcat a large 8aucepa n o f �'aterlo I ?oo f. Place the cold

It to thicken 'llIlckly.) Do not allow 11 to hOII. or 11 may curdle. Once it

. adjusting the heat to maint�lIn the ....aler . duck roulades in the ....ater.

tlllckens. turn dO�'n tilt: laral "'1I1 ."..h lllk in the hutter. Allll ihe hlancheti

h:mperature. Poach the duck for 6 to 7 mmutes for medium- rare. or

corn kernel" and fica'on �'lIh IIlIh and pepper.

7 to 8 mmutes for medium. Remove the duck and allow It to rest for 2 to 3 minutes before sllcmg.

With the roulade. still wrapprd. cut off an enll of each. using

11

8errated knife. Cerlll)' rush the roulnde Oul of the wrap, Slice each

WillIe the duck cooks. make the morel mushroom lIaucel Melt

rouilltle IOtO three e(l uai 8Cclionli.

a medium skillet o'o'er medium heat.

Plllce a lSpoonful of the remaining duck Ilauce In Ihe center of ellch of

Shake any exccss .....3ler from the mushrooms. add to the hot butler.

81X plnlca. Top the liauce With Ihe creamed corn. Stnntl the pltcCII of duck

and 83UI(: until the liquid h:ls e'o'apor:lted and the mushroo,ms are

roubdt on the corn and KUrnl8h the top of tach with n spoonful of morel•.

tender. If the liqUid cV:lpOr:lleS before the mushrooms 3re cooked. JU8t

... ... c u 6 ' . . ... U H ;; '

1 tablespoon of the butler

In

:ldd a tahlespoon of ..... 3ter to the pan. Add 1/, cup of the duck liauce to


POII.UonMlcd D.'cnwt of S " u o h

wJlh SWhfH

Cluu'd . Snull-cd Duel( Fore G r n H .

u n d OV('u'J)l'Icd D l nel(

F'J�H

1 ,«Ipo "Qukk" Squob Sq"". (pog. 229),

SOUA'

SWISS CHARD

3 squob (... Sou''"',

I pound Swfn cho/d (yellow, green. 0( red),

pogo

3 1 5)

modo wilh the reserved squab legs

ond carcasses (from above)

womed ond drled on poper toweli

Canolo 011 KMhctr 5011 ond "�Jy ground block pepper

I tablespoon unwlted buHCf

2 toblespoons B(tUffQ Monte (pooo 135)

KoWf' lOlt

OYE N . D R I E D F I G S

12 ounces fresh moulard duck fole gros,

cut InlO l/4·1nc.h cubes

I/, cup 8eurre Monte (poge 1 35)

Kosher salt

6 ripe Block MinIon figs, or best quality ovolloble,

Squob Spice (pog. 233) 2 toblespoons minced chives

each cut Inlo 6 wedOOi Powdered sugar for du,"ng

S

" Utlh 18 dimeu!! 10 cook In th.1t YOIl h.ave 10 hit the lernper:uure

Mell the remaining I leaspoon hUller in 2 tablespoons watcr in a

exactly right. II HhouM he tiervcd medium-fare. When ii's r.are, ii 's

second large skillel ovcr medium heat. Add the chilrd siems. season with

lough ilm) dlfflcuh 10 erll. When It liMns 10 get o\'cr medium r.are. lhe

sail. OIod cook. slirring. ror I 102 mlnules. or until lcnder. Drain. TO C O M P L E T E H ea t lilt. inch of canula 011 111 a large 8:lUt� pan over

mcul firKins 10 wkc 011 n lIv�ry navor, We oven-tlry Ihe fig" lef' over froll1 summer's hounly-ihey'll keep

medium-llIgh heat. Season the sqllah hreasl8 wilh Sillt and pepper and

week Blld Herve Ilu'lIl In thld fall elilih. Wr usc 3 beauliful yellow Swl"" charel, .. variety you muy he OIhle 10 find al rOlrme",' markel".

place skin side down m lhe hal oil. Cook for about 3 millules. or unril lhe

Jlemo\'e each hrc31i, lialf (rom Ihe IU u:!h coarc.1SSCH, l ICBving Ihe wlngK nllilched 10 lite hn'tUilli. CUI off Ihe Ilpli of Ihe wings.

"an and add Ihe heurre lI1onl�. Continue 10 cook and ba81e the squab (or

ahOUI 2 mor(' fIllllulcs. or unltl lhe meat 18 medium-rare. Herno\'e Ihe

II!ZlviflK ollly Ihr Il'lrgcr 1111110111 wing hOIiCl AII;aclu'd 10 Ihc hreaSI". Wllh

Jlan (rom lhe he.lt and allow the 8quab to rest ror 5 minutes.

for n

skin is .. rich brown. Turn the meal O\'cr and cook for an addlllOnal 2 mlnules. hasllnglhc meal wllh thcoil l n Ihe pan. Dralll off lhe fat in Ihe

FOR

Tit ( SO UII tI

n JlllfIng knife, IiCfrlJW Ihl' lIIe,'1I awl'ly frolll ihe "",luK hUIIt' 10 "frcnch" il.

Meanwlllic. comhll1e Ihe chard leaves and Ihe figs wilh the hcurrc

Cover And rcfrl",rrnle Ihe hr�""IIi. U"c IIU' leg" anti COIrr31ilieli i0 make Ihe

mOlllc i n a saucepan and ildd a splash or water. neheal over mcdium-Iow

litjunh HAuce,

heat. JUlit hefore sCn'lJIg. sllr In the chard slelns.

rOR

TlI[

OVU. DAttO

rtGS

" rdlcDI Ihe ovc'n 10 :J50o r. LU1e a

Ileal a large sklllt'l over lIIedium l ugh heal. Season the cubcs or foie

dU1I1 (mli.lg II IUlgar "hakrr ur II .unall "lraill!!r) Ihe fig" Wllh p(J\'!clered IIIIHllr, Plncl' llI llw OVl'I! a 1111 hake for:W mllluet'H. or 1111111 dried 1I111 1u.1I

Kras With "alt. WhCll lhc Imll III very hot. add the foie gr.18 and hrown Ihe JlIeccli 011 all sules. TIuli lihould only takc ahoul I to l lh minutes. Don',

HUpl'lc·. Thr flW" c'nn he k('llI n·frlKernle·d In all :.Irll,.;hl conlilirll'r ror III '

ovc:rl'OOk; lhe pieccH wtll conlinue 10 cook wlten lhey 3rc removed from

to I week.

the heat.

F O k T l I [ S W I S S C II A R D

CUlnrf,llI'lilalkA, IHlII AwnyancJ clllico1fd any IIlrIIlK'" nlHI cUl lhr lunlk" oll lhc cliagolllli inln III. inch J"llenlle. C\lI IIH�

Slice Ihe 'iCllIa!; hrc;uil8 crOSIiWISC all

n

sltghl dlilgonal. Spoon some

rCIlVC" lulU 2 Ilirh ph·erN. You hili han' lIl'prOxilllllldy (, 10 7 CliP" of

fHluab sauce 11110 IIII' middle of eJch scrving plait·. Top each wilh a ponlon of the chard and (ole gras, O\'crlil l) Ihc tll.cc8 of liquah o\'cr Ihe chard.

I rlmllled IC'a\'l'H allli Hlalk",

Sprinkle Willt

Me·1I 2 1t':I"1'1101l11 of Ihe 11II1I('r in " large' likillt'l m'l'r lIleCIiUIIl h('ill. Acld lllC' chnrcl lc'a\'e'H, IIprlllkll' willi IIIIIt (It I" IlIIlmrlalil ln ":IIt !l1(' 1":1\'('" "dorco IItry wile fnrr\'l'lI l1c·aHonlllg). ;11111 cook for I 102 IIIlIml('". orulIlIl llil' lenv('" will. Drain Clll pn l ll'r lowel". 174

Hewarlll ihe 811 uall galice,

IlIIklllK "hc'l'1 \'dlh I 'arrlUllrlll. PlnCI' IIIt' fig piece·" oll lhe pnllallll llghrly

Th ..

Fr .. nch La u n d r y Coo�hoo�

elm'('".

a

Itglll dUliling or 1i(I "ilh sIIICC. Ihell 8f1rlllkle Wlllt thc


Roolled Gulneo F o....' e n Cr,plnerte d e Brold/, pogo 1 78

176

rt , . F , e n c h l a u n d , y Cookbook


III YOII. nlll I l wy' " "

TIII'y' ,,,, ,ltU""

flucI 1111\1'

I " ,"h'"

II CIl'IIPI'"

1 ' 1)\\1'\'" " , IIrl' " IIH'"

h" C'IIII""

IU\,,'ly t u cook,

I h l 'Y" -"

th" "

{'I. It-I,,'"

tllI\IU" 'I' hl' "'U".

u,' h'"" ,,,.,,",""

nllllll"'l "" I I " I'ly

', h o I

177


aYAlD.

I to I '12 cups thlnty sliced zucchini rounds

'I. cup conoto 011

I to 1 '12 cuJ» thinly "ked Joponcw eggplant

1 cup sliced onJon\ (halved and GUt Inlo I. to I rho

,cd bell pepper, COfcd, $Ceded, and cut Inlo

6 """II tomatoes ( I 2 ouncc» . pecled ond t"I"IV "Iud

'/A·lnch julienne

I yellow bell popper, co,ed, seeded, and cul lnlo 'IA,Inch jullenno

1f2 cup corrols cui infO Ih-Inch mlrepoht (se. pogo 203)

'I. tco,poon mlnud Ihyme

'/J cup shollolS cuf InlO Ih-Inch mlrepolx

0.,. 2'h·pound gul_ lowl

1 cup onion, cut Inlo 11l·lnch mlrcpolx

'1.,lnch jullonoo

Herb �chcl

(see pog. 203)

2 �f}fIO' thyme, 2 Spr10\ r)(mlcy, ond

I boy It.'Of, 'Icd 1000C1hcr In 0 cheesecloth

I 10'00 meet coul (ai,

bundle

soaked overnight

In cold WOlel In the refrigeralor Kmhcr $011 and freshly oround block pepper

Ko,hcr .011 ond ('lJ1hly OtOund block pepper

B

yaleli

'N

(see pogo 203) I cup leeks cui Inlo 11l·lnch mlrepolx (se. pogo 203)

I toblespoon extro virgin olive all

"'nolo oil

n rc'f'Ilc'cl ilW'rprC'lilliOIi "f r:u;I!tIUlllc, Tht' vcgC:lahlc8

F O R T H ( 8 '1 A L 0 I

Pre heal t h e o\'cn to 275°f,

furrllllilly dic'c'cl ff,r tI rtlltltnuillc' t'ggplnnl, lurchill,. yellow HCI U31111,

IIcat thc 011 in a largc likillci ovc r medium hcat. Add the onions,

lItl'W of OmOIiN and pe:ppe:rs.

pt'ppcrs. and herb sache:t, gcmton wilh salt and peppcr. and cook for

lornnlu Mc' H!r('Cel nwl Ittyc'rt'd nver

,I

hru8h,'d willi (,II\'(, nil. HC'.1IifllH'tI '" ,III linlt. (ll'Pl't'r. nnel thyme, ,HId

1 5 IJllnules. or until Iht' vegelablt'8 are softened bUI IIOt browned.

Imhfl. TIll' f/)",'1 11i C'flC'luwd In Ihl" ProVf'lIc;nl V('gt'talll,' comhinnlioll :nul

1tt'IlIO\'C the s:lchcl ane! spread tile r111xlurc In an evcn laycr in a

wfOC PlwIJ in c'alll f!lf Itt !lInk,. fn,gr.IIII. Hc-If lIaHllfIg package'li, (J fyoll h,we!

12 Inch ovcn proof skillct or round baklugtlish.

,lI fflC'lIlIy fllullfll{f'nlll fal, clon' l !t·t lhar IilOp you froUl lrylllK 111I1i dhdl, If ullly It) IntUc' Ihlli i I" III ' IIII," " " J.;c'wblL' prrp:lrillwn.)

Arrangc thl' slaced vegetablcs O Vl' r Ihe: oJllons and peppers . hcglllmng at the outSide or the pan and wo rk lll g toward the eenler,

Uynl,IJ HI"''' "" ,II wllh fllOKI IIIc'ill" anti Kt,;.fuotl. II'" ulI l 'onnnl to IIIiC

al t crnallllg :rrl1l ove rlapping them (scc t he photo ·r,')lh on page 1 7 7) .

Ii(" a IIIn ndoh nt' to

M,x the g: uh c, 011. thyme, 31111 salt :llId pepper to t3ste and sprlnklc

C'III IIIt' IIi 1 1 1 10 very ,h"I Klirl'Ii, aholll filiI' HIXlt'c'nlh ',f all l I le h If pOII",IIIt'.

vcgewhlc8, Covcr "dtlt alUlllIllUm roil. cri mp i ng the C'c!gc8 to scal, o r ""lllI a tlghl filling lui Jml hake for 2'11 hours,

vI'W'wlll" " Ilral 1t1l\'C' 'IJlJlmXulltllf'ly III(' "rUIiC drnlllCt,'r.

IIHlk,. IIU' "YId,I, till' clily I",fnn' Hl'rvrng li lt; nllllw tile nnvonl lo dt'vdoJl,

1 I,lv" lilt' huu'lU'r tul 1IJ1 1 11f' glll lU'a fo.... l. I f you p,,'f,'n aKk h un ""WIVC'

ovcr th e

10

HClIlo\'c the lad alld check thc ,'cgcfahlc8 {the eggplant will lake t hc

IIII' """C'" "" YUlI l'jlJl lIKt' tlll'lIl for lilt, Hauct', 1)0ll't o\'('rcook Ih('

longetll to ('ook), 'nlcy should have softened 3nc! be al most cooked,

binI. The hrClHihi UII,l lhi,.;hK Khould 111'.1 lillie I'lIIk i n t hl' cc'nlc'r.

178

fat removed and chopped 1nlo 1 .lnch pieces 2';' cups waler 2'h cups C"Icken Stock (pog. 226)

I 'COlpoon chopped gorllc 2 ICO\poon\ olive 011

I oreetn bell peppe', cored, seeded, and cut Into

1 cup conolo 011 Reserved corcO\\ and trimmings of the fowl,

I to I '12 cups thinly sliced ycllow �uo,h rounds

Inch·IOflO "I",,) I

IOUndS

SAU CE

T h o r,oflch

Laundry Coo�boo�

Ht'ttlrn 10 thc O\'CII, ullcovered, and cook for an adclrllOn:11 30 mmuteS,


or until VCI)' t end er. The byaltll can bc scn'cd Immcdllucly or. olS (or tillS recipe. cooled to room tcm lu:r:l.lurc and thcn rC£nge-"'ted ulIlIl fC3dy to usc. preferably for:.. day Of H, 0, FOR T H [ G U I N E A FOWL

Utnng a bonulg k lll(e. rell1o\'c: thc: brcast lli

two pieces, Remove and discard the skin :lIId trim the edges of thc me31. raid each breast cross.... lsc III half so Ih:1t the mlrrow end o( thc brcasl .1Iltl lhc wldc end meet. CUI a sh3110w sial ...cross Ihe width of the fold. This will ensure even cooking of the breast.

Ihen st",in t h rough :& dunoitl (8C(, Jlage 73) inlO a "mall M:tuce lHuh

ou shoulll 11:1\'(' ahoul 2 10 2 1h cup" of 1111'"tl. Do 111)1 fOf(,(, Ihro\l�h :lny

80lhls or 1lIl\lItl lh:1I rrll1�UI1 I1\ Ihr clUIIO\". 1\('lUrn Iht" ""u('(' to Ihe tltt}\'c 31111 rCtIUl'C to 11& to ifl CU I" TO C O M P L ( T l

I'rt'lll::'31 tla(' O\'CI1 to 3S0oP,

I\(,JIlm'(' Ihr " aul fnl from liar \\alt'r n11t1 lIlol tlry nn I 'a l'rr 10\\(,1". (':lbon (,3ch I'I(,ft" o( hell '"" Ilh lUllt :llltl l)cpper. Co\'t�r t ilt' ('nlirt' In ll o( e3ch plC'ce of (0\, 1 .... 1111

n JlOMlOIl

o( lilt' b ,11th (bUlh 1:,) r"')t "rl thr

Cut offlhc legs and t lugh s and cUl tht' Il'b'S and Ilughs a pan , He8en'c

rr1U3111HI); hpllh .,,\!tk Pl3ft" 011(" 1)lC'c(' of h'lilltra fo.... 1 H'K('I:tblt· "hie

the legs :llltl c:trcass fo r the g.,ucr, ne Il10\'(' the skm (ro l11 the thl�h8 and

do,"" n on on(" rtig(' of IhC' caul fal. HolI lI up fi('curdy III the ,'aul f,lI. KI\'II1�

rold Ih(' ('cIK(''' of lla.. raul fill

du;carci; cut oul :tnd remove the hone. Tram any ullc\,cn edges :lIld fold

11 (1 cQuplr of turnll. :aml lrllU Iht' ('\('('11".

cach tlugh o\'er 11\10 lis oraglllai shape, Cl lhe b"UUH·... (0.... l a81(Ie.

untle-ruealh to forl1l a IIghl p3fl..a�t" 1\(· l'r:II .... llh Ih(" rt'lIInllltllj.; I "rc('"

FO R T H E S AU C [

I l eat the canola 011 o\'('r IlIgh I,,"al lll :l hea\) hrauung

pan large enough to hold the bon('s III ont' byer (The amount of 011 III

Ileat I:. IIlcla of 011 111 a 1u':I\ (He·" I .ruu( �llllt"l m rr IIII'clllllll lH'.u (hc'

c("flalU th:\l lhr 011 111 1101 O\rrl hul. or II '"" III m3�t" holt·" IlI lh(" ("Iul f,lI)

necessary for propel"" bro.... llIng of thc bones, The eXCeliS fat '"" III be

Place: the plfkets \ ('grl:lhh' liHIt' cl.,,",, n lil liit' 011 :11111 brn..... l1 l1l1tll lh,·) :trr

poured offl3ler,) Whcn the oII IS \'cr), hot. add III(.' choPIlI'd hOIlCK, J\llow

nlt"dy colured 011 Ih(' h01l1l1ll. ahoul

the bones 10 brown on the fi rst sule hefore YOll lurn Ihelll, ... hoUi 1 0

('3rdully turn l lat' I lIc'l'r" llld l'OIlIlIlUl' III {,lIok fnr 1I1lClUI 2 ilIOn' 1111 11\111'"

·1 IIIII1UI('/i lIKIIIJ.: " narrrm M I ',IIIIIII,

JnlflutCS, Turn them occasion:llly 1111111 I he), art' l'\'enly colorcd. ahOUI 20

10 hro.... n Ihl' t'1'('olul Klclt" (lirr IIII' phohl�ril ph UII paK" 1 77) , I'lncr Ih..

mmutes tOlal.

8�allel lll tilt' 0\('11 for :thout 1 5 mlllul('11 In cOlI\pll'I(' lht' l'uU�UlKI II(l 111l1

When the hones are well hrowlled, pour off the (al from thl' pan, Add I/: cup of Ihe wat r to the hOlies and tillr

\, Ilh

a .... ootl(·n bpoon or

spatul:l. scr;1pll1g lip the gla/e from Ihe b01lom of the 1'311. Continue to cook lllllll lh(' IJ'Iuul hab C\:tporJlt'ti :.. nd rt'gl:"71'd the 1 '311,

Add 112 cup of tlll' clHcken block 10 IlIl' p:1I1 and dt'gl:m:! 36 abO\e,

Coni lillie 10 cook unlll thc 11IIuld C\3poratl's 36 hefore Add IlIl' H'g" t:..bks to the hOIll's and bllr 'nit' rnOUHure from Iht,

vegcl:lhlc8

....

111 dq,;la/c lilt' pall

o\('rcool the fo,, 1 M t'all\\IIII('. rrhe-:lt Ihr rt'IiHuntnK II .. !tIl III tht' el\'('Il, Slir 1111' tlll\l' OII UlIO Ihc' !JJUCt' DI\ III(' Iht· \l'J.:fl;tIJl(·!J ..IIIUIlK four I llah'" CUI

c·.I('" I! lf{'(' uf 111'11 UII II

sllghl dl",�oIl31 IhroIlHh Ih,. ('('nlt'r Arr.llIg(' n PII'('c" uf \\hllt· lIu'al tHul ll , I 'I( CC.· of .l ar k JIIt'.ll on ('3ch portlUlI ufll);1lell 0(1111(' "UI1I(' �'1\1CC' mc're'at'h " A " t ' ..

U . ... " H . '

Conllnllt' (,oo�lOg anti stirring to

cvapor;1lc 1111' rnOHilUrc anti gl:t/c the \('gctablt'lI Add Ihe fl'JlIo\lIlIlIg 2 cups clllekt'u blOCk :t1H1 2 C l l pli .... atf·r to 11ll' p:1l1 Scrapt· Ihe gla/t. ;rom the hOltom of Ih,' pan :md iii III II Icr UIIIII III(' IUJlud 16 n'(juced by ahout one tlllrd 51r;1I11 Ihl' saUCt· th rough :1 colJndt'r lind

Meal

179


Salt

and

pepper

and

vinegar

'nit uhl l ity t o IUIII food properly i8 the single m081 impon;lOt skill In cooking. When new coob Klart at Ihlngli I l ry 10 convey. Sail

the reRI.1ur.:ant. tills Is one of the first

'" the prim:.,)' Kcalloning IngrcdicllI we usc. I t

hc lgh l CJlI1 the navor o f everything

acr088 the houd. n o matter what

you're doing eYen warne 8WI;el8, Wllhout

ytKclnIJltK AIlII fruits I"

a li t tle n31. dead.

h. the navor of mC.ll8 and

fade. 018 they 83y In France­

I",lipld. 5:11t "pc nil up nayo rs , makcK them tiparkle.

HilI Urnu Inllic fUllt in u dish. it 's too ":li t),. Sull'" nol h.1ll (or YOU-IOO much

""II ill had for you. Processcd food

Cim co u l n lll f'no rmO IiIi tlUUnlilic8 of Hall. hUI if you cal fresh foods and you' re flclifioning It YOUrllC:lr. Ha l t intake JlhoulcJ nO( he .1 JlrolJlcm.

Tilt' luude Roll we ust: hcfare and d uri ng cooking Is kosher s.. lt. We UHe lI lIJlt:clnc hrnnd of kosher IUllt, Dlnrllond Cryst.1I, of tllr grnhl8. We gauge Ihe amount of lI"h wr're

beca u lic of the size

Ulung JJlainly hy touch,

nnd we've KOUen uHed to Iht feci of the Diamond Cry.uill lmlOd. Pepper, on l ite allier hand. Hhoultl be utied only in certain Co18CS for IIJlcclric

HuilcH. Pepper on meat I. n COl1l113 nl, hut pcp per on (Ish can be

ove rwhel m i ng 0 ' 11

t80

UHe white, If any),

T h . r , . n c h L a u n d , y CooldJoo�


Somettmes pepper makes " dcsserc: rn3nlCapOne Imrbet wllh a Tellicherry pepper syrup, for InSlance, so Ihat sweet. nch, and slut)' elemenls come together. Pepperon raspbernes 18 delicIous. (Tdllcherry.

but when ),ou bitc do", n on n cl)'Klai of I I 011 fOlc grad. for exomJlle. It's

01111:111 118 1I 1"SI rxplodu ", uh navor. TI)' tasllng thffert'lit saltil lO ululef'8t:uul their tl Hf(,l'enccs. 81nMIng

a common hlack peppercorn, IS slInllar to Ja\'a peppercorns. but II 'S a

with fleur de

little more aggress l\'e.)

for),olll'8t'lr.

White pepper IS Importanl loo. mainly 10 dlshcslhat need P('III,cr hut whose appe.,rancc would be compromised by specks of black pcpper.

I think people use pepper too much. It gets 111 I he wa),. Sail dlssoh'es and penetrates, PCJlper doesn· r.

sd ,:uHl sd ({fill, thf'n ko"h('r ,,:tit. aml l:un!)"

lohle Malt. Sf'(,

TIle other IInpOr1allt 1It'3S01\l1l(; 011(' thnt 1110111), tr ntl to o\crlook

hUlld n:I\'Olli ,", IIhoUl !!ecollling prollllnt'lit It"df, A lot of ourn 1o muaufr

li.3UCCS 6.3II('("S \\C lII:tke JUlit hdort' 8cn'IIIH tli("lt1 title vlllct;:tr.

After cooking, we usc two d lfferenl 8.,11" ali a textural. \'16I1al. and fla\'or· enhancing garmsh: fleur de sd, a flure. sl lghtl), sweet. while salt,

III

\, l Iu�lpr. You llon' t \\anl to tastc \'III("g;1J'1 hkt" Knit. It '" onl) Ih('f(' to hrl l l

Ihe lI\eat sauces h:w(' a

tlrop

Many of

or t'"'O of \'l IIeg;)r, VlIlegnr allo\'K ),011 10

reduce Iht' ;1I110Ullt of salt )'OU Ulit',

and sd 1,"115, or gray 8all . .....hich is 81111 mOllit and has a 101 more IIlIneral

White "'"Ie \,1Ilt'gnr IIf, III)' f:1\'I)(lll'. 1I('('alll'l:: II ","or"" wdl III lU81

fl,l\'ors to it. They' re h3f\'estcd hy hand along the coast,,1 regions of

"haul t'\('I)' S;IUCe:' You wOllltln ' , \\illlt lei ""(' a tih('rry or n hnh ullllic,

weslern Frallce. Fleur de sci Iii eXpenSl\'c , hut a lillie

hecau8e they hnvc ntl\ONi (If Ilu�lr 0"' 11 I like \'Itle/-:ar tu lllwr aimul n G

1m

gOC 8 a long '"" 3)'. A little

percent a(,ldll), tW I c:m tlli('

It·"" of II

lhnll a \'I IIt'({ar Willi a

Iuwt'r ,ICllhl),

four- or SIX- Ollllce hag. for maybc ten do113rs. Will last a ycar. I t 's

;lIltl thcrcfurr Ihe fltl\Or ducsu' l lu:cnlllt· prl'\'::.II::1I1 Wlll'n thl' \'IIIt:";Olr is

wonderful on salads, Ml'at benefits from neur de sci and sci gns aftel'

" maJur )lart of 11i(' Ihllh

cooking i t . CheWing on salt sounds like an a,",'ful p roposition.

10 USe ;). good (Iuaht), vl lieKar,

In a \ lII('gar SJIICe, for IIl"Hllicr

' II "

IIII)lorllllll


' YA B B A

I lI)ftHUo(J n i h Suo .. l,

DABBA

w i t h G o l d o n C h n n H. ..·oJ l p H .

DO'

Po nllnt'H A n n n . I \ l 1 d HOl'd o l n l H c Snllcc

c6TE Of 80EUf

10 ."ng' I.ollo n poroey

2 pounds Yukon �d pototoes

1 double·cu. rib """k (oboot 2 '0 2'1:1 pound.)

2 .prig• •hyme

6 toblespoons Clarified Butter (poge 1 25), melted

Kosher, wll and f'Mhly Ground block pepper

1 boy leof

Kosher solt and freshly ground black pepper

Conolo oJl

2 loblO$poons 5Jlced oarllc

CHAHTERELLE MUSHROOMS

.. tabfespoons (2 OUnc:4\) unsalted buHer

6 bkJdt peppercorns

I tablespoon unsolted bultcr

BOROELAISf SAUCE

1 cup Veol S.ock (pogo 222)

I generous cup (3 ounces) chonlcrelle

1 cup red wfno, lOch as Cobornet Souvtonon

POMMfS ANNA

mu�rooms. washed. stems peeled,

If, cup ,11ced shollol$

1 0 pll1cd Pfuncn

and cut Into 1 .lnch pieces

liz cup ,Ilced

00,,01,

1 cup Chicken S.ock (poge 226)

1/04 cup \lIcod mu,hfoolm

Kosher soh and freshly ground block pepper

I tobl�pooo minced iho1l0h

Groy soil

A Ilk the hUI"her (or u douhle cui rllJ Hle.lk, or �tJ'e de hoclI!. HC:fl uCIiI � Ih;1I fi lII' 1runrlled of CXCtiU, rat, th.u the hone be "frenched," or

Thyme sprigs F O R T H E 8 0 R O E L A l S E SAU C E : In a medium 6aUCepJIl, bring Ihe

wine. vc:getable8, parsley. thyme. bay lcaf. and garlic to a simmer. and

IIcrapcd clean. :ulIl thnl the meat lit: tied ...· ilh Hlnng 10 hel l' II hold Hs

simmer unlil almo6t aU lhe liqUid has evaporated, Add the peppercorns

IIlwl'l' during cflukln",.

and vcal stock and simmer for another 1 0 to 15 minutes. or umil thc Slack is reduced to a sauce consistency (ahout liz cup). Strain the sauce

I HConHUJl lhl" 1111'111 ,111 1 do any large cui or meat 10 he IIcn'cd rarc to ulI'dluUl flirt'

II clay lH:'rorc rooklngHo

tluH the sail haslimc 10 penelrate

through a (lI1c·mesll strainer into a sUlall saucepan. This sauce can be refrigerated (or 2 to 3 days,

into Ihl' nc"h mill infl'nKlfy tile' navor.

fOR T H ( POMMES A N N A SJirlllklt- nil "lIIe'" of tiw Htenk Jlhcrally wilh

llah and pepper. Place on ;1

plah' "lIc1 ((·(ri Kc·mlt· for I day 10 allow the n"VOrll IO develop.

0111' hUlir In'(un' cookillg. relllove the meJt (rom the refrigerator. (II iH i m pu rt a nt Ihal fwd or Inml! IJC hro ught fO room temperature lle·fon· conkfllg, If the mc'nl IH cold. the cooking tlmc Will he Increased

11111 1 tilt' Ollt H id f' \\'111 hf' Merc'ooked !iy Ihe limc the inside rCathell its prop('r tl'IIIJlf'rntllrt" )

tl2

T h . F It", c h L n ll n d f Y Coo�boo�

Place the prunes and chicken stock in a

8mall saucepan.TIlc prunes should be jusl cO\'ered with liquid. Bring 10 '" 8immer and cook for about 20 minutes. or until the liquid has ev"'por.lted and the prunes are vel)' soft. Remove the prunes to a cutting bo.ud and finely chop them, Add the 8h3110ts and gray salt to tasle, Preheal thc oven to 450°F. Peel the potatoe8 and trim into cylinders that are 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. U8ing a mandoline. cut the potatoes cr086wise into I/u.·inch


sliccs. Placc the sliccs in a bowl of cold watcr for a minutc to remo\'c somc of thc starch. then drain and dry the slices on pilper towels. Put 2 tablespoons of the clarified buuer in an 8-lOch o\'enproof nonstick skillet. Place a slice of potato in the center of the )Jan. lay more potato slices around the edge of the pan. overlapping them by half. unlll }'ou ha\'c completely circled the pan. Continue with another O\'erlilpplng

lIe.1t

'I. IIlch of cOlnola oil in 3 lIea\')' ovenproof pOln o\'('r high h('31,

Add the stuk And seu It for -4 to 5 mlmllel. or until

h IS diuk brown ami

crullY on the bauom. Flip the lIe:ak Imd brown the aecond IIlde for 2 to 3 minutC!-8. Pour off mOlt of the oil Imd Oldd the bUller to the pan.

I'I�ce the p�n

10 the oven :and rol5t for about 5 11l1llUICli. 8ute the mc;!.! with the butter

circle of potatoes inSide the first. When thc cntlre boltom of the pan il

imd pan JUices. turn the Iteak over. and sprmkle with ,:alt. Continue to

covered. sprinkle a little kosher salt and pepper o\'er the potatoel and

cook. b3sting e\'er)' 5 mlnutel. for A 10131 of about 20 10 25 minultll. or

repeat the process to form a second layer. Spread half of the prune

until 3 me:at thermomeIer rends 1 1 5°F. for rare me3t. Another way 10

mixture o\'er the potatoes. leaving :1 1Iz·inch border all around. Work

deterrmne 1f the meat il cooked 11 10 pierce the meat in the center with

carefully to a\'oid mO\,lng the potatoes around too much. Make another

:I. cold knife or metal ske,,'er and le3\'e 11 there for 4 5 8ccond,. Hold the

two layers of potatoes. seasoning the first layer whh salt and pepper. and

lip toyour hpi if it il w3rIn. lhe meat II done. Remove from the O\'en and

spread the remaining prune mixture over them , ilgain lc�a\'ing a border.

let the me3t rest in the p:lIl for 10 minuteS,

Cover the prunes ....ith .. a final two layers of seasoned potatoes.

M[AHWH llt,

Pour the remalOing

fOR

T lU

CUAtHU[lL[

MUSUROOMS

lIent the

1ft cup clarlflcd butter O\'et the potatoes and

butter in it ,killet over medium h("3t. Add the mUlhrool11s, le380n "'hh

place the skillet over medium-low heat. Once the bUller beginS to

salt and pepper, Olnd cook ror 3bout 5 mlnutel. or until the U1U!1hrool1\lI

bubble. cook for 3 to 4 minutes. shaking the pan occasionally to be lure

3re tender itnd llightly "tOtllty"' around the edgra I\nd any lI'Iulll hu

that the potatoes are not sticking. Use a spoon to gently shape the top

evaporated. Rewarm the sauce o\'cr low he31.

I\cl1\ove the 'tring

and sides of the potato cake. keeping the prune filling from leaking out.

TO C O M H [ T [

Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for about 30 mlnutel, or unlll the

from the Iteak. Slice the mul 1t '1l1nl1 the grilin into 1f. · l Ilch

potatoes are ....ell .. browned and CriSp, 1 n\'en the poUto �ke onto a board

O\'erI3p the alices o n the aen' i ng platCi and place " "'edge of the pOlaloea

IIiCCl.

or serving platter. The potato cake can be made a fe...... hours ahead and

Ann3 alongalde. m,cre wi11 be enough pOlatoes for aecond".) Arrange

set aside at room temperature in the skillet. Reheat in 3 450°F. O\'en for

the chantcrclle mUlhrooml O\'er the steAK and apoon 10llle lilluce

about 10 minutes. or unli1 sizzling hot.

.he .op. Cunl.h ","h .hyme .prlg•.

F O R T H [ S T [A K

While the potatoes are cooking. pat the me3t dr)' (II

won', sear well if it is wet) and wrap the bone in aluminum fall to pre\'ent it from burning.

' I C T U I l O ON

PAGI

1 8 !1

over


I...

T h e F , . n c h L o u n d , ... Coo�boo�


Ilh" IUHUli In 'hi' 'nhlt', (lr H ,,'huh-

"" 1'''- "' ! l h " " ....,,. pOlnltU-",_ I nyt'I"-"

""\1\'1-_ 'l'hl" 1" "" lI"p'II'Iunl Mh'p I" tI'" h,'('uu"" - I t hwuh " M Ih,' c l l n " I' I n Ih,路 " ooklna: I n'(H." '"",

Aboo. 路Yat.bo Dol-be) Do: pcJIJ. 112

Meo,

lIS


B ra i s i ng

the Virtue of the Process

I lovedish.. . h..

'exl, ""'e brown the arom.nie vegetables. to dc\'elop some of the

lot of characrer. complexity. and depth hy

caramel rIchness of their 8ugar•. Then we dust the meal with nour

virtue of a long cooking procc811. Ihf nglJ like the vcal brC.18t or the lihon

and brown it on all sides, That aroma of the browning nbs has:'1 depth

rihH In the fUJI ·a u fcu. Tile technique IH whal lUltis(je8. What J lovcahout

to i t that is like no other aroma for me. When the mcat is browned. we

thcKC hr;tflu�d ilCnl8 11J thal lhey'rc nOI JU81 1J3UI�'�nd -8erve. The proccs8

add the browned vegetables and the clarified marinade. then flllilih

IJdlind them re'l uirt'H IllQuglH on the ran of the cook, and techOlque. 10

the bralslIlg liqUId with some vcal stock. Then we cook the fibs IIl lhe

crenle IWI1It'lhlnj( 1I10rt' than wh:lI you lilarted with. A (II 'I mIgnon 18 a

oven for flVc 10 SIX hours.

and

are JilUCCUICIII , that h:lVc

:I

rile-I mlgnoll lll('r,'"" Ihtlt- difference between the rJW lIIe31 and Ihe

When the shor1 ribs are cooked, we remove them. vcry gently

cooked rural. HUI IlIiori ,ibIS. \'('ul brt'aKI Ihey become cOlllpletely

hccause Ihcy' re so sUCCU!CIlI and tender they' re failing apart. from the

different rnllliclI ,,(tc'r they're rookc:d. They transcend thCJIl8Ch'C8,

cooking liquid. We strain oul the aromaltcs and reduce the liqUid to 3

tlt-Vl'loping II full. {,'Hnpl/·x. '1011 IlIfyl nl{ ""ilt' and arOlO3.

sauce consllilcuey. skimnllug II often. Finally. we stram it agalll and

1'111' WH('('IUI of brfl llUlIg MIIOr1 rlh,;

h

could he any kllld of hr:llliC is

nn I'XfJUIMlh' IhlnK, Finn, "'r flHlke 11Il' rnnnntule 1Iy cooklllg the Illcohol

firalsed dl8hcs ltkc the short ribs gct beller wl t h :'1ge. After a day

0111 of lilt' Wlllf', IlwlI rulchug Iht' amnlilllCli1 rllrrOIS, Onions, hl'rbs,

or two, Ihclr navors have had a chance to mature together. These

Wh�lI lht- mlxturf' could, w(' pour it o\'('r Ihl' rnrlll nnd ICI Il IiIi for a tIny.

arc the kltHis of thi ngs I like to make at home III thc WlIlt 'r and cat

TIll' IWXI IIfI'p hi

In

fll·pllr.1 H' IhuMe IlI n·t· dl'nWlIlH lU:lrJnlldc,

over st'veral days.

"roIlII'lIJ(' V(·/{I·lnhlc·., 1II1(I IIIC';&1 ,'Hlel work IIrp:lr;"" ly wllh ('aell. finn. \\('

Whilt ,""c ' re dOing hcre IS taking cheaper. tougher cuts of meal and

IHrain I I ", IIHlnllllllllg 1111"111. llien hrtng II 10 n iJ011. 1he nihunllll

traJllirofflllug Ihell1 Into bcautlful. tender. exquIsite dishes that arc far

(proll-h'li) ill lhr 1111'111 JIIICl'fl lhnl lt'arhrc! lnto I ht' lI1nrtIHHI" lilll uil fy nnd

more 8al18fyll1g th:'111 filet mignon or rack of lamb. Agaut.

fo rlll II ('IMlfylng rllft, which III r(,lIIm't·cI . )('IIVlng

dlShl'S nrc '""' hnl ('ooklng Iii ;llI ahout.

1'I

rle.1r IIllxlUrc. Ali

II I"'"YII. wr ' rl' lIt' ,lrl'hlng for IIII' clruncflt. hrlKhlt'lit pOlitilblt' f1rn.' on.

186

sCl'\'e Ihc dltlh.

The Flench

L a u n d , y Caoklloo"

10

me. tIH:IiC


Meot

187


\\'

· P O T.AU · F E U ·

B.'nhwcl P I 'l na' IJ(·(·r S h o " l H l l h '

l l h nODI VC'gc.-' l u h l c· H n n cl S u u l l'cd BOtH,' � l n l'I'()W

MARROW IONES

� solt and f,nkly ground bkKk �r

16 red peori onlons, peeled

8 pi,,", ,"""OW bone (WI I ';' Incho> long)

Flour for dU10tlng

112 teaspoon red wine vinegar

About 1 cup oll.purpose flour

2 10 3 CUp' Veol Slock (pog. 222)

,t, cup lome'O dlomond. (... pogo 203)

Koskor 1011

2 10 3 cup' Chicken Slock (pog. 226)

3 tablespoon, dloppC!d honon parsley

Conolo 011

R O O T V E G E TA B L E S

IRAISED SHORT RIIS

2 medium ,we� bunch corrols

2 ploco. ptfme bonelo .. .hart ril» (obout I Inch

2 smoll pot'lnlps

PI, poond. eoch) '" 3';' pound.

I pound coul fot (only for boneless short ribs),

wo� In cold woter for 30 mlnules (optlonol)

2 smoll turnip', cui Inlo 1/.·lnch dice

Conolo 011

�Ieu lhort ribs Of 8 plKe1 bone·ln

2 lobfespoons WOO'

Gray salt

short ribs (about 7 to 8 OUrl(4J1 oach)

8 baby leeks Of smotl Kollions, tough outer loyer

I toblespoon finely chopped chives

Ihlck ond

I reclpo Red Wino Morinado (pogo 1 90)

1 6 while peort onions, �Ied

Conolo 011

W

removed and trimmtd

If you ha\'e two large p,eces or boneleas short

e Uti!! Ihe cxtr:tordlnary short ribs (rom D3�lIon·B:Jker In

f O R Tit E

Kentucky. '011: recipe will work w hh bone in ahon ribs 3S well.

ribs, lrim the excess rat from the meat (leaving the sih'erskin attached)

S H O lt T

R

18 S

Mnrrow Is 11 IrlldhfoJlal clement or pOI-au-reu. hUI ,",'e flour and pan·

and cui c;Jch piece against the gralO IOto two pleCtS, If you have smilller

r03ll1 It 80 thnl h', crunchy on the oUlside anti succulent on the 11111 tie.

boneless short rlba. there is no need 10 split them 10 half. Bone·in short

adding:l whole new dlmenllon 10 the dish.

ribs u8ually don'I require any trimming. Place the meat in :l well-sealed

I wrap the .hon rlhlf in caul fnt to create lighter. more compact plecel of mcnl, htll caul fal can be" difricull lO find. Tryclhnlc m;Jrkell or •peclnlty hUlchers if you

plaslic bas wuh the marinade and rdrrger:ltt for 8 10 24 hours. turning Ihe bag once or tWice.

�olllcl llke 10 tllC iI. but eliminallng it will nOI

Preheat the oven 10 275°F. Remove the meal rrom the marinade.

afftCI the flavor of the dllh much. If )'ou\'e ne\'er ulled h. though. do try

Siralll the marrnade IOta a saucepan and reserve Ihe vegetables. Brrng

10 rind 80l1le and experiment. Caul fal helps the mcal keep itA 8hape, :Iud

the marrnade to a simmer and "clarrry" the liqUId by skllnnung off the

It balllcli lhe IIIC:t1 nSlhc fttl renderK.

Impurrties lhat risc to the top, Hcmove from the heat.

Begin prep:trlng the IIhort ribll nnd the marrow the day before )'ou plnn to ileNe thl8 dilih.

lie:" II. inch of canola 011 In a large skillet over lUSh heat. Scallon both SHies of each pIece of meat wllh salt and pepper and dUBt wilh nour. l,awng offthc eXCC88. Place the mcal ln the hot 011 and cook for

Soak lhe ll1nrrow iJollc8 in n ho\\ i of lcc \\lIlcr for

2 to 3 I11II1Ule8 on all illdes. unlll well browned (adjusting the heat as

20 mlnUIC8. Drain 11IHI removc the marrow from lhc hOllt'K hy pUllhlng II

necellsary). Hemovc Ihe meat to a heavy o\'cnproof pot or casserole

out wlth}'our finger. If II dOt'ln'( COIl1t" OUI CI1Iiily, aoak the honeH hrlt"fly

Ihal holds the pieces III one layer.

r O R TtU M A R R O W

1l1li

In �'nrlll wnlc-r. JII8t t'!lough to loollcn thr marrow. Soak tht' marrow

Pour off thc excess all from the pan, relurn to the heat, and saute the

plccc8 1n a howl of Icc wntcr for 12 to 2·1 hOllrll, cilnllglJlK the walrr every

resen'ed \'t 'etable8 ror a few minutes. or UlIlIl they begrn to caralllthlc.

6 10 0 hour,., (It IJI IlIIportnnl 10 change the wnter "ecillI8c M lhe blood 18

Spread the \'egeI3bles O\'cr the meal I II an even layerand add the marrnade

extracted (roll1 lhc.- marrow, tllf' "nter WIll become 8aturated � l I h 1I100d

and 2 Ctlpli cach of veal and chIcken stock. TIle meat should he covl'red

nnd lhe: JIlnrrow could 8poll.)

with litl uldl If It III not. add more \'cal and chicken Slack a8 necessary.

Th. F r . n c h L a u n d r � C a a " b a o "


Bnngthe liquid to a simmer on the stove, COHr\I. ith :1 parchmcnt paper ltd (see page 1 90). transfer to the o\'cn. and br;\lsc: for 5 to hours for bondess short nbs or

6

3 to 4 houri for nhs .... lIh bonel. or

) 0 " 3T( " cap illng t h e ntr31 III (,3ul flu, til') t h e c.lul r:n wdl . Wr3p e3eh

luete or IUraI

III ('aul (,1t. rolhng It ov�r to ell(,;"I(' 11 in a tlo\lbl� I " 't'r or

caul fal l )ou should 611I1 s('( ,h(" 111('3t through Ihe fal. In :l 8\.llIel 1111lt Will hold Iht' nb" ('omfortnhly III one Inycr, hrat

unlll the menl lS " ery tender. Remove the meal from the pot ;and Stral O the hqulI.I I Ino a tall

I. • II1rh of 011 OH'r medlUlII Il1gh h(,:11 TIlt' 011 lilloultl he hOI hilt nOI

narrow container. Discard the vegetables, Ollce the me31 hM coolrd

6IHoking, Plnc(' liIe nh" In Ih(" IHIII :uul cook mll li goltlen hroh n on all "IX

slightly. cover H and refngerale II I It cOIn be 6tored for up 10 2 da)8.

Sidra. about 30 s('collds per

Sk101 the fat that nses to the top of the brmsl"g l lqu nl and filr:1ll1 lhe liquid several t uncs through :1 cllUlOIS (sce pol c

73) lIntll lhe dunols

remains cl ean. Rcsen'e aile tlllrd of the Imllslllg hqUld for reh ea tl n� Ihe

,ult

I f } 011 h:l\(' UliI(,11 caul r3l. " u llI Itr

.l1rnoKt COI11I)lclc1) re ud(" retl hUI s1l01l111 .1111 form a I TiU lSl u(,(, lIt ""ral" around tllt' IIhort nhs Tr.lIIKf("r tht' hrO\\ lI("ti niH' to " pOI \\ h('re th(' fll In O lle 13) ('r.

short nbs and \'cgclable g:tnllsh before sen·1I1g. Tn1l16fer the rem31111ng

PI:lce e nough of lilt' brJullIlg IItI 'IHI to JUtil ('QHr Iht" ('uolell

Imll sing liqUId to a saucepan and retl uee UIIIII it 111 3 sauce eOllslIHency

\'t'gC'13hl(,1J I I I a 8:1uct' l.a n ami d('1 3f11tJe' Atlll tht' re'lIlalntllg hra hu ng

(.bout 2 cups) .

liqUid to Ihe Jlot hl1h Ihr nllK 1 h(' nhK KhouM he noal lng In 11( 1 '11111

F O R T H [ R O O T V [ (; [ T A B L £ S Ihe same size:

Cut Ihc vcgel3hlc8 Into IlIeccs ofahoul

lanlllg at the n3rrO\\ ('nd of each carrot. cui 11 11\ a n

obl it l uC cut (sec page 203): F ,rst. cut off a dl ngon31 1"ece

aboul I'"

Illch

long. " ith Ihe klllfc blade pOinting a"3) from lOU al a 45 degree allHle 1\011 the carrot a quarlcr turn and cui another plecc al the saUlc angle Repcat the proccss unli l lhe carrot " IlJens.

lice Iht' .... Ider pan of the

carrot ICllbrthwllil' III half and conl lnue 10 lurn and cut the CJrTOt If tht' plcces iJccome 100 brgc. cut Ihe carrot Il'llbrt h.... lsc III hal bgJ l1l 10 kccp

I f I1(,CCblltl T) . :nl d \('al IItu('k nn n g tht' hC)ulIl 1 0 a 1t1 l1l11\C'r I\(' III U\' (' from th(' h(,31 31ld ('OHr Iht' lII('al " 111I :\ 1111 o r pnrehlllt'1l1 papc r IhJ (8r(' pagt' 1 90) 1\(,e' II I I1 . h a rlll KPOI or III a 300° F 0\'(, 11 11 11 1 1 1 rt':\tl

10

s('nt', or ror up 10 45 IIIlnule" Alld llit' coolt'd carrOIK, I lanUlI)lM. turnlplt. relt luul .... Ilth· pt'arl Ol\lon,., 3 11t1 lh(' tomato t1Htl1101l11" HI thr rrlle'netl hralMing hC )u itl II I Iht' 8Juc'cpall :1I1f1 ht'al grllll) 10 "'arm Add Ilu: choppt'd Mt'an .... ll1lt'. ('oul Iht' hOIlt' IIl.1rro"

l ).Irlllc '

'Ilu" ilrp Khuilitl lit· ,10111:' I1I lh('

Se Ihe samt' mcthod 10 Clit llac

Ia.lil mlnult' hdorf' Kt'n 1111{ Drain and II I) tlie' (llr(,t'K or lJtlllt' 1II.'rro.... .lIul

B1allch thl' c.1rrots, !larSllllhi. aud turrllps logether 11\ hOll i ng baited

contalllt'rurOIl it 1 '131t' SC':lh:oll lht' huut' 1I13rm'" nn all KlClc'jj '" IIh �(lKllt'r

water Shl'elellcd ,\lIh Ihl' sugar unt il complctel) It'nder UeIllO\(' tht' vegelables "lIh a slotlcd spoon or �klllllller and chili In Ice .... Jlc:r. drJln

fia" Cent·rousl) ('U3t t'at,1t 1'1(,(,t' In IllC' ntltlr III1tI IIKhl1 lU I ' tlrr nny tlC('b!i 1 It'.11 I '. IlIrlt or 1111 111 a 1.lr�t' IIUlUillCl Klll\t'1 oU'r IIlt'llIlIlII ht'nl

,dum cold a nd set aSide.

1111111 hOl ( I f lilt' fHI I" tou hot, Iht' nour .... ,lI lJurn lir·ru n' lht' Iw,rrn'" haK

the fmlshed plcceli c{ l ual III Sill'. parsmps. Keep thcm separate

Add Ihe Icl'ks to Ih(' hOllmg\\atcr and hl3nch 1Il1ui tl'lIcirr itrlllo'l'

tnm lli(' ('1It1" of C'nrh 10 ('rNIt' J n"l �lIrr"ct' Pl aer tilt· nuur lit " KIUIIIl

a cha net' 10 ( fib I', If tilt· t) l1 1 � WI) (:1)141. Ihc' IIIJrm.... .... 111 l11t'h hdu Tf' Ih("

('Till!,

OIl' II IH' h· rl .... ,Ih .1 ranK flf nflllr anti 110 marrcn,',

to another Ice \\31c:r bath ncpt'at h IIh Ihl' h IlIll' pearl olllonl\ a.ul fll1311

O IiI IilC!t· IIi

the red pcarl omoJlt.. addlli g thl' rl'd hllH' \' llIcgar. .... llIch "'III hrlp Iht'

Wurkill/o: "' lIh half lilt' marco"" IUt·u'" "I a 11 1111:', lil.tlltl t':u·h flu'ce' of

:1111)

OIl10n8 kC'l'p IlIt'lr n·eI color. In tilt, hOlllllg .... . I1l·r Wlu·1t Iht' \I'gt'lilhlt'b

nlJrm .... IlI l h.. p.11I ,lIld ulllk ulIlil till' t'11t)" aTf' goltl " 11 hru.... II. :JU to

arc cold. drain :1I1t1 dT) Ihl'm on pa l'c'r IOhdtt

·15

Ir UHlllg hond(,'86 bllon rrlui. trun Ihr fiult.·ri tu ('\('11

bt'WIUls flt'r t'1U1 1.3) thr I"(,ft'll flf IIIMru.... flIl Ilwlr Iild,'K I1lul mil thl'lI\ II) IIro.... n II Hht l) ,,,, ,,11 "ltl,.�. :l l u 3 1I1111111t'Ii 'I IIr uUlliltle'liluHlltl l1l' (-'nRJlY

them. CUI each Pll'Ct' of rr b 11110 rt'll.lll.,rular PICCC'1i ahoul I ' l IlIdwfi h)

hUl lht' 111,,"1,. tihuulel !il ill lIa\(· .1 w·IUlInOlili UHllillilfolll'Y HC'IIIC )\(' fmlll

2'12 IlIchcs. (Thl' 617t' \\111 dcpcnd largd) ol i lhe rOrtll of ) CJllr 1tIt'�II . ) I f

tli,. p,ln .Intl he·p III a "';mll IIIJ('"

TO C O M P L E T E


Ulllng a Hlol I cd .epOO", arrange ':ln equal amount of the vegetables

M A R I N AT I N G M E A T S

USING

WINES

OR SPIRITS

on each serving plate. Place the leeks in the vegetable hraising liquid I f you're marinal in ' anytillng ....'ilh alcohol. cook the alcohol orr firsl.

to warm for .3 mlnutt. sauce

Alcohol doesn't tenderize: cooking lendcri7.es. Alcohol in a mari nadc i n

ovcr the dld eH, HO thai it I iglHly coatI the mtat a nd dri7.1le8 onto the

effect cooks I h e extcrior o f t h e meat, prc,'cnling Ihe meal from ful ly

vcgtlaIJlc8, Lay a pIece of bone m.urow ovcr the top of each rih.

ahsorbing the na\'OT8 in the marinade.

Place the !fhort nhs o n top of the vegetahles and spoon th

Sprinkle gray !Jalt and then the chopped chives Over the hone marrow.

1\.1\\' :llcohol i lself

doesn't do anything good to meJt. So PUI your

Top clleh willi a Iwhy Icck.

.....I ne or splritll in a pan, add your aromatics. cook orr the alcohol. lei it

" C l U I C O Oil ,. ... tiC

cool. and then pour it over your meat. 111is way)'ou have Ihe richness of

187

' ' the fruit of the w i ne or Cognac or whalever you re using. hut you don l

PARCHMENT

PAPER

ha\'c Ihal chcmical re:acl ioJl of "hurning" the meat wilh alcohol or i l s

LIDS

harsh ra.... ' navor. Very r.1rcly will you lice a pOI with itd l id on It I n my kitchen. I prefer

I don't know if there's :l place for r,1W alcohol, as opposed to winc

"llrehment paper IIdli. llcCJUHt they allow fiornc eV<lJlor3lion <IS well as a

thai IS cooked in some: way. III the IIrepllrJtion of haule cuisinc. And ir

l ong cook i ng time, lHul lhey 3180 protect the fiUrface of Ihe meal from

),ou ' rc Serrous about eating. i f you're serious about food and wine. you

"eeom l ng c:mullt·!Izcd all it cook8. 1t'8 likc haVing a htl 31Ul not h,wing J

should consider Ihe fact thai raw :llcohol in food Will o\'erwhel m the

lid iJ l llw HIIIlW IIInc.

.....i ne )'ou'n :scIVI Jlg wll h Ihat food.

To IIlllk,' :I pareh mt'lit lid. cut or tear a Hquarc of p;lrcJuncnl lIigger

I hrl ll till' pot 10 tIC' em't·red. fold IWO oppos ite co rncrll i oge lher 10 form a

RED WINE

MARINADE

Irillng"', I IIt'Jl fold l 111H trulIIgle in half Inlo a lJtr1;Jller t ri'Hlglel it will have twn .,hort liid" 1i IIIHI onc Ifl ng Hidt'. '·olliI llHi the truUlgl

. KO

Ihat nne of the

112 cup onk>ru Cui InlO 1.lnch mlrcpolx

One 750·ml bollle (ed wine

Hlum KItI" 11 fnc,'� ynu. Polcl lhlij bOIIOIII " dgc up, uHlklllg;J narrow tria ngle.

'6 cup COHOI" cut Into 1.lnch

111111 ,'n'jIHe It. IflIli ntil l liing Ihe pHi !! t of Ihe I rlangle• •1K If you ....·cre making

mlrcpoht (sec poge 203)

II

pn lu'r nlr"ll'l''''. '.'old tllill ....... ltll.;" flvcr again. lIIallllllirling Ihe POlIll, and

" Ollllrllw fnltllllg ill lhlH IIUIIIIlI'r Ulliit you gel 10 IIII' Oi l ier Kill"

:Ihout rive

or Klx foldK In ;111. YmJ "llOul,1 f,"lIih will t n "ery slell,Jer IrI,wHl e.

("'" poae 203) 3 cloves gorllc. sma�hed

1/J cup leeks cut 1nlo 1·lnch mlrepohc

10 sprigs 1Iolion parsley

(whIle and pote green pons

2 �prig� Ihyme

only, s.ce poge 203)

I boy lcaf

Tu IIlt'ilIUJrt' Ih� IIIIC'. "hlct· the III' over tht' c" nter of the pot 10 be

cuvl'n" 1, murk Ih e " "Ke IJf the pot wilh your I hu lI1h, and ('ut thc CIIIJ off

Iu·n'. Then ('ul {l ll unnt'r ineh offtlie III"

ufold you r t rlangle, It ....' 111 he

Thili mari nade. uscd IIl sc\'cral d ishes. can IIlso he made wilh white ....· i nc: when approprrate- wlth vcal, for e xa mple. Usc n wille Ihal 18

Cahernet

:1 circle- II I(' Klle of YUllr pnl. wl l h a lill'mn hole Ifl the cent(·r. Plilee Ihl8

acceplahle for drrnklng, tiue" 3S :I

IlIlpcr lid 111 1111' pOI fiO I hal l l relilfi gl'ntly oll l h,' fOUlI you'n' cooking.

B1:1J1c. Always cook off 1111 the alcohol first. or the alcohol will bcglll 10

S3llVlgnon or Sau\'igJlon

cook your rutal (lice ai,ove).

Plact' all ihe IIIg retl l e llls

III a

"Hie pOI and hring 10 a holl. Ti l t the Jlall

a ....ay . from Ihe hurrll'r :wd carefully Ignite Ihe Wille wllh a IlIIIICh. Allah'

III(' alcohol

to

hurn off. then hghl II :lg:lln. If there arc no nallleS, the

alcohol iii Hone. Cool Ihe 1II:IfIII:ule. I he n pour O\'(�r Ihe nll:a l ;1110 marrn:lte for 1110 24 hours.

190

T h ll F l ll n ch Ln u n d , � Coo�boo�


""001

191


IlI'nlHed

BJ'CUHl of Venl w i t h

Ye J J ow Co I'll

5 cups Chld= S.ack (pogo 226). WO''''.

Y(AL

,

Po l c l l l n Col(e ... . G l ozed Vcge l o h l c fJ . n n d Sweel G n l'l l c

Dobby veol "'eo.. (abcxn 5

paunch)

V E G E TA B L E G A R N I S H Thirty-two 1.lnch pieces corral, turned (sec pooe

or a combinallon

l<o>ho, ",It and f,.,hly g,ound blo<;k peppe'