LAY OF THE LAND

wanderer

HOUMA IS HOME TO A PROUD PEOPLE WITH A ZEST FOR LIFE, MUSIC, AND FOOD. THEY CALL IT JOIE DE VIVRE (LOVE OF LIFE.)

Houma gains its name from the Houma Indians, a Native American tribe located in Terrebonne Parish, one of Louisiana’s most southern parishes. French settlers christened it Terre Bonne translated as “good earth.” Today it’s a melting pot of Cajuns, Creoles, Asians, African Americans, Native Americans, and people from the Caribbean. They rule a nostalgic kingdom, a land of contrasts, beauty, and culinary pleasures. The city leaves its indelible mark on all who visit this deep delta delight, from the intoxicating flavors of boiled seafood to sinful gumbos and creamy oyster stews. Take a lazy ride along bayous black as crude or a whirlwind tour aboard an airboat skimming a sea of marshlands. Tour guides introduce visitors to the local livelihoods weaving through fishing villages and seafood factories, while the swamp/ alligator tours share haunted tales inside a jungle of wildlife. Listen closely to the haunting cry of herons screeching through the trees and keep an eye on those beady eyes peeking above the water line, 12foot gators with massive tails swaying to and fro. Houma and its neighboring wetlands are in the center of the southern flyway filled with jubilant melodies of exotic birds. Some stop to refuel before crossing the Gulf waters to South America, while others ride out the winter as the coastal temps rarely go below freezing. Pay close attention to the thick canopies of trees, especially the cypress. They are guardians of these ancient jungles, and some believe home to the Rougarou, a mystical werewolf. Deep inside the dark waterways, the swollen cypress trunks send shoots above the waterline called cypress knees. It is believed they provide stability in the swampy waters and hold strong against storms. Look closely at the knobby-knees, and spy their wart-like faces with almond-shaped eyes. Could it be the Rougarou spying on all who enter?

Downtown Houma

Houma brings more than great restaurants and historic architecture; it’s home to a proud people with a zest for life, music, and food. They call it joie de vivre (love of life), evident in their many festivals, dancing, and Cajun Mardi Gras. Give it a whirl at the Terrebonne Folklife Culture Center and sign up for classes on Cajun dancing. Or get acquainted with the native flora and fauna at the Bayou Terrebonne Waterlife Museum with a 46-foot mural and interactive exhibits sharing the intricate relationship between the people and this compelling network of wetlands. In Houma, everything is up and down the bayou. Properties along Bayou Black offer streams of plantations, historic homes, and southern mansions. It is there you will find Southdown Plantation, a nineteenth-century sugar plantation with artifacts from the sugarcane industry, the Houmas Indians, and other native people of Louisiana. Another gem, the Ardoyne Plantation, shares a Victorian gothic build shrouded by oaks draped with weeping moss. Schedule a tour and witness six-generations of family furniture, china, and plantation memorabilia. Don’t leave without visiting the main branch of the Terrebonne Parish Library. Resting along Bayou Black, the library offers wonder and intrigue with a very knowledgeable staff. It has an expansive collection of local lore and colorful interactive exhibits in the children’s section. Pay them a visit for their annual Jambalaya Festival with lauded regional and local authors from across the country.

Chauvin

A trip to Houma wouldn’t be complete without a ride along the Wetlands Cultural

Above: Houma and neighboring wetlands are home to tangerine sunsets dotted with emerald marsh grass. Top left: A popular tour is Ardoyne Plantation with a Victorian gothic build and six generations of personal treasures. Top right: Beautiful headresses and tales of the Rougarou still haunt the bayous and come alive at the Rougarou Festival in October. Center top right: Spend the day hiking and rest for a picnic under a wondrous stretch of oak trees at Jim Bowie Park. Center bottom right: Book a tour and sip on cocktails made with small-batch whiskey at Bayou Terrebonne Distillers in Houma’s historic district. Bottom right: Cypress trees are guardians of these ancient jungles of oak trees along the bayou and swamps, Bottom left: Settle down for a feast of seafood or a Cajun speciality of crawfish.

Left: Centuries-old architecture and history come alive in Houma’s historical downtown district. Right: Built by Kenny Hill, the Chauvin Sculpture Garden is filled with 100 concrete sculptures perfect for exploring.

Byway. The journey begins on Highway 56, skirting Bayou Petit Gaillou. Home to true-blue bayou people, a tight-knit group where generations live together holding company with a small-town library and fire department. Be sure to make a stop at the Chauvin Sculpture Garden. Kenny Hill, a bricklayer, left behind a tale of life with more than 100 concrete sculptures. The Lighthouse is one of the most prominent builds with 7,000 bricks. Every piece brings extraordinary detail, as the artist shares both his spirituality and his struggle of personal pain in a cast of characters from angels, cowboys, soldiers, children, and Hill himself. Moving closer to the Gulf, every mile brings beauty, and soon the homes and streets grow sparse. Stilted houses, what locals call camps, are built several feet in the air, far above the flood plain. Most are simple with wide-open spaces and a big kitchen to cook the daily bounty of fish and shrimp. A growing number are more elite and host corporate clients for major fishing rodeos. Next on the map, at what seems to be the end of the earth, is Cocodrie, home to Louisiana Universities Marine Consortium (LUCOM). Dedicated to coastal research and preservation of the state’s coastline, several marine exhibits along with a tower offer a birds-eye view of a 10-square mile marsh estuary. Stroll along the center’s ponds and boardwalks for a close look at indigenous and migrating birds. LUCOM offers guided tours, field trips, or a mini cruise across Terrebonne Bay and the Gulf Barrier Islands.

Time to Eat

After a long day of sightseeing, it’s time to settle down for a feast. And of course, the menus are teeming with seafood. Some of the local favorites start with Boudreau and Thibodeau’s Cajun Cookin; besides the fried seafood platters, they’ll bring you a bucket of steaming crawfish. Big Al’s Seafood is another local favorite with boiled and fried catfish, crabs, crawfish, oysters, alligators, shrimp, and more. Although we do love our seafood, barbeque reigns supreme along Louisiana’s jagged coast. Head over to Honest Abe’s Barbeque restaurant and dive into a platter of messy ribs or a big ‘ole turkey leg. Then there’s Big Mike’s BBQ in Houma and nearby Thibodeaux with the finest smokehouse delicacies along with crawfish boudin and craft beer on tap. Want to burn off some of those calories? Many musicians find their roots in the rugged soul of Cajunland. They create a veritable symphony of music from Zydeco and Swamp Pop to Bayou Blues and Cajun Rock. Locals love the Jolly Inn Cajun & Creole Restaurant, not only a yummy menu but also dance lessons. A-Bear’s Café has great gumbo and seafood along with toe-tapping Cajun music on Friday nights. Ready for something lighter but packed with flavor? Then 531 Liberty Café is the place to go. Try their incredible cranberry chicken salad, a BLT with sliced avocado or a divine Reuben piled high with corned beef, Swiss cheese, and sauerkraut. There are homemade soups, a selection of Panini’s and burgers, as well as quesadillas. Get your food to go and dine under a wondrous stretch of oak trees at Jim Bowie Park. Nestled along Bayou Black, spread out on picnic tables, there is lots of shade and a perfect place for social media photos. Locals are proud of their food and equally proud of their homegrown whisky, especially Bayou Terrebonne Distillers in Houma’s historic district. It began on the banks of Bayou Terrebonne during Prohibition when Lily Lirette fired up her moonshine recipe. Today, Nick Hebert, Rodney Lirette, and Noah Lirette continue their great grandmother’s legacy on the same bayou. Book a tour and sip on cocktails made with small-batch whiskey. So what are you waiting for? Pack up the car, bring lots of sunscreen, comfortable dancing shoes, oh, and some elastic waist pants. Houma is the gateway to the heart and soul of Louisiana.

SEE:

Southdown Plantation & Museum 1208 Museum Dr. Houma, LA 70360 985-851-0154 southdownmuseum.org Chauvin Sculpture Garden 5366 Bayouside Dr. Chauvin, LA 70377 985-594-2546 facebook.com/ChauvinSculptureGarden/ Bayou Terrebonne Waterlife Museum 7910 West Park Ave. Houma, LA 70360 985-580-7200 terrebonnewaterlifemuseum.com

EAT:

A-Bear’s Café 809 Bayou Black Dr. Houma, LA 70360 985-872-6306 facebook.com/abearscafe/ Big Al’s Seafood 1377 W Tunnel Blvd. Houma, LA 70360 985-876-4030 facebook.com/BigAlsSeafoodRestaurant Boudreau and Thibodeau’s Cajun Cookin 5602 West Main St. Houma, LA 70360 985-872-4711 bntcajuncookin.com

SHOP:

Historic Downtown Houma 317 Goode St. Houma, LA 70360 985-373-6408 facebook.com/HoumaMainStreet1/ Bayou Terrebonne Distillers 8043 Main St. Houma, LA 70360 985-790-7722 btdistillers.com

STAY:

Twelve Oaks Plantation 3650 Southdown Mandalay Rd. Houma, LA 70360 985-876-5227 twelveoaksplantation.com Grand Bayou Noir 1143 Bayou Black Dr. Houma, LA 70360 985-804-0303 grandbayounoir.com Bayou Blue Cottage Navarro Dr. Gray, LA 586-876-3850 airbnb.com/rooms/956742

DO:

Terrebonne Parish Library 151 Library Dr. Houma, LA 70360 985-876-5861 mytpl.org/branches/main/ Terrebonne Folklife Culture Center 317 Goode St. Houma, LA 70360 985-873-6408 terrebonnefolklife.com The Jolly Inn Cajun Dance Hall 1507 Barrow St. Houma, LA 985-872-6114 facebook.com/TheJollyInn

“LIVELIHOODS ARE SPELLED OUT

ACROSS THE WATERS WITH SHRIMP “ BOATS AND RECREATION BOATS PARKED IN BACKYARD BAYOUS.