Art of natural cheesemaking

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Foreword ix Preface xi Acknowledgments xiii

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Introduction A Natural Cheesemaking Manifesto Milk Culture: The Ecology of Cheese Rennet Salt Tools The Cheese Cave Kefir Yogurt Cheeses Paneer Chèvre Aged Chèvre Cheeses Basic Rennet Curd Pasta Filata Cheeses Feta White-Rinded Cheeses Blue Cheeses Washed-Rind Cheeses Alpine Cheeses Gouda Cheddar Whey Cheeses Cultured Butter

1 7 15 27 41 55 63 75 85 101 115 121 129 147 159 177 185 193 211 219 229 237 249 263

Appendix A: Appendix B: Appendix C: Appendix D: Appendix E:

Sourdough Whey Starters Framework for a Natural Cheesemaking A Troubleshooting Guide Comparison of Microorganisms in Commonly Used Starters, Raw Milk, and Kefir

273 277 279 281

Annotated Bibliography Index

287 289

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The Ar t o f Na t ur a l C h eesema k i ng

A collection of some of my naturally made cheeses.

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The Ar t o f Na t ur a l C h eesema k i ng

To make Mason Jar Marcellin, pre-drain and salt the curd; drain the curd for an additional day or two; then pack the dry curd into Mason jars to cure and age. — 140 —

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The Ar t o f Na t ur a l C h eesema k i ng

To make Tomme, cut its curds to the size of a lentil with a wire whisk; stir the curds while cooking them; and let the curds knit together at the bottom of the pot. — 226 —

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A lpi ne C h eeses Add the rennet: Dissolve the double dose of rennet in 1 cup (240 mL) of water, and gently mix it into the milk.

Incubate 1 hour, again covering the pot and keeping the milk at 90°F to encourage the rennet to set the curd.

Check for clean break. Proceed to cut the curd once it has set.

Cut the curd to the size of a lentil: Using the wire whisk, whisk the curd to within an eighth of an inch of its life (that’s 3 mm). A minute or two of brisk whisking will achieve the appropriate curd size: about the size of a small lentil. Stir the curd to be sure that all the curd has been thoroughly cut.

Cook the curds to 110°F (43°C) while stirring.

Once the pot has reached 110°F, continue stirring nonstop for 30 to 60 minutes, to encourage them to firm. Once the curds, when pressed between thumb and forefinger, bounce back to their original shape, they are ready to be put into their form.

Pitch the curds. Let the curds settle in the pot for 5 minutes. As they settle, the curds will knit together into a lump of cheese at the bottom of the pot. Do not heat the pot during this time, as the curds may overcook.

Set up your cheese press atop the draining table.

Lay cheesecloth in the form to help hold the curds together.

Whey off: Pour the whey off the pot, reserving a quart (1 L) for making a washing brine. Save the rest for ricotta (see the recipe in chapter 22); whey from Alpine cheeses will give the best results!

While they’re still warm, strain the curds, by hand, into the form. Fill the form to within an inch of the top, and place the form on the draining rack to press.

Place the follower—half filled with warm whey—atop the cheese to serve as a press.

Press the cheese for 5 minutes.

Lift the curd out of the pot and place it into the press; press the cheese with whey; and flip it several times to ensure an even shape.

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