A vegan friend of mine was recently served a plate of rice and mircrowaved tinned mushrooms swimming with brine at a restaurant which had two days previously told her over the phone they would be delighted to cater for her. Furthermore, they treated her like a crazy person, thoroughly spoiling what was supposed to be a celebratory dinner.
Scandalous, I’m sure you’ll agree, yet not so uncommon. Similarly, coeliacs, the gluten-intolerant and shellfish allergic complain of being branded faddy, yet I've seen not an eyebrow raised in establishments where X or Y toddler will eat only chocolate ice cream.
Bravo then, for chefs who recognise that everyone deserves to be served great food, whatever their dietary requirements. Rhian Craddock, of the excellent Feathers Inn at Hedley on the Hill, near Stocksfield, Northumberland, is renowned for his commitment to superb local game, meat, fish and dairy, and is now gaining a name for his talent for vegan food (see our review on p21). This is quit