WA S H I N G TO N S Q UA R E N E W S P R E S E N T S THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2013 Vol. 41, No. 98
s ' t e L pe a c s E
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TO THE SEASIDE From any point of view, the ocean is always inviting. Kush wears a Hardy Amies checked button-up and navy trousers. Maria wears a Walter Baker sapphire quilted dress. Vibe Jewels headband. – ON THE COVER Madeline wears a Charlotte Ronson embroidered patterned dress.
CONTENTS Breaking Barriers – 4 High Exposure – 4 Customed Tailored Gifts – 4 Industry Insider: Alex Olsen – 5 Industry Insider: Serena Guen – 5 Shine Bright – 5 Run Away – 6
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EDITOR’S LETTER
BENEATH IT ALL
Fashion, for me, shines most as an expression of personality. More than the strictly sartorial world of runways and retailers, clothing catches my eye the most when it serves as a manifestation of character, as does the carefully crafted costume designs chosen for film, theater and television. It’s incredible how so much thought goes into something many people take for granted or ignore altogether. In my own life, I dress to fit a mood or sometimes, admittedly, to channel a character from a movie or TV show — we all have those Cher Horowitz Saturdays and Marla Singer Tuesdays, right? It’s not terribly surprising, then, that in planning Fringe, I first thought of the story, spirit and characters I wanted the shoot to represent. The first criterion I sought in casting models was personality, and clothes were chosen to showcase the three dynamic individuals who would be wearing them — as students, dreamers, intellectuals and, above all, thinking and feeling human beings. When looking at these images, try not to become stuck on names, materials and prices. Let the plaid evoke memories of long scholastic nights in the basement of Bobst Library in your preppiest, warmest flannel shirt, and allow the bold and structured dresses and jackets to remind you of nights you’ve spent staring at your closet, searching for the outfit that will make you stand out as bold and confident, be it at a job interview or a party. Because above all, even the most gorgeous dress on the rack is little more than a roll of fabric if it doesn’t have the perfect fit. An enormous thanks goes out to creative director Kaleel Munroe for channeling my chaotic, and sometimes cursory ideas into a coherent and beautiful reality. This issue wouldn’t have come together without his help and that of my loyal styling assistant Dana Reszutek. Also immensely important was the behind-the-scenes assistance provided by David Bologna and Hannah Treasure, makeup artist Kendall Hill, the lovely models, talented photographer Luca Khouri and videographer Alex Linzmeier, all the writers who contributed and everyone else on the WSN staff who devoted their time and effort to this project. Many hours in the WSN office and a Saturday at Coney Island have culminated in this issue, which I hope you’ll find inspiring. Dive in and run away for a little while.
ARIANA DIVALENTINO BEAUTY & STYLE EDITOR
PHOTO CREDITS: HIGH EXPOSURE – VIA VOGUE.COM | BREAKING BARRIERS – VIA FLICKR.COM | ALEX OLSEN – COURTESY OF ALEX OLSEN | SERENA GUEN – COURTESY OF SERENA GUEN | GLITTER – VIA FLICKR.COM
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BREAKING BARRIERS
The world of fashion is slowly beginning to appreciate bodies of all types. By HANNAH TREASURE Hundreds of magazines circulate, designed for millions of readers — so why is only one type of girl — a white, straight, cisgender, thin, upper-class woman — featured on the covers of so many major publications? Fortunately, some progress toward diversity in fashion is being made, as some fashion publications and designers are breaking the mold of representation in their cover shoots, campaigns and models. On the runway, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy has been known for implementing diversity into his brand, with his show presenting an all-Asian modeling cast in Spring 2011, his campaigns including a transgender model in Fall 2010 and an albino model in Spring/Summer 2011. Other notable designers like Vivienne Westwood, Tom Ford and Jean Paul Gaultier have been making strides in industry inclusivity. Gaultier even popularly earned the label “l’enfant terrible” from his refusal to accept fashion standards and his desire to challenge norms. Despite these examples, the blaring,
disappointing statistics of the runway don’t lie—about 82.7 percent of models for the Fall/Winter 2013 season were white with a singular, thin body type. Even more distressing, designers like Rick Owens have tried to rewrite the stereotypical representations on the runway but with approaches that were entirely misguided. During Owens’ show in Paris for Spring 2014, he hired models of multiple ethnicities and body types — a step in a clearly progressive direction, right? Sadly, not quite. While it’s still debated
82.7 percent of models for the Fall/Winter 2013 season were white with a singular, thin body type. among runway collection reviewers, his usage of the models as step dancers with exaggerated animalistic accentuations embodied more of a racialized function of entertainment rather than filling the recognizable role of a model. Performances like Owens’ turn diversity into a gimmick and attraction rather than an aim to deconstruct institutionalized hierarchies. However, there’s been slightly more progress in fashion print mediums than the runway. The magazine i-D recently teamed up with the organization All Walks, with members including designers like Vivienne Westwood, Hussein
Chalayan and photographer Nick Knight, who is known for his famous shoots of people typically marginalized in fashion — the disabled, elderly and full-figured body types. The partnership of All Walks and i-D launched a campaign called Diversity NOW! for university students to voice ideas for a more diverse fashion industry. Teen Vogue should be recognized as well for having 50 percent of its cover girls as women of color between its September 2012 issue and September 2013 issue. In May 2013, Elaine Welteroth became Teen Vogue’s beauty director — the first black woman to attain the position at the magazine. Besides racial diversity, Teen Vogue also followed Seventeen’s suit to no longer photoshop, a corporate promise spurred from a reader’s simple petition. InStyle has also responded well to advice from readers by including more diverse women in its photo spreads after receiving much written-in criticism for their lack of variety in female portrayals. Ultimately, readers desire more diversity in magazines we read, we cannot just sit idly and shake our heads while flipping through the pages. Speak up to pressure publications to admit to their exclusivity and change their ways. Magazines and brands create products to sell, giving readers and buyers a piece of control over the glossy, paper images of their future. Hannah Treasure is a staff writer. Email her at bstyle@nyunews.com.
HIGH EXPOSURE Collections featuring revealing pieces push society toward gender equality. By DAVID BOLOGNA Move over, Janet Jackson — and all others infamously known for wardrobe malfunctions. These controversial exposures of the body are nothing compared to the reveals now commonly seen in the trendiest of places — the runway. For years, the layered use of light, sheer fabrics such as chiffon have been a wonderful stamp of elegance and luxury in fashion. Today, these pieces are instead acting as a single, sheer, skin-baring layer. From Dolce & Gabbana to Marios Schwab and Ann Demeulemeester to Gucci, this trend has hit the runways hard, and more models’ chests and rears are displayed in every show. The most classic manifestation of this trend was seen at Tom Ford and Giorgio Armani, with a sheer blouse worn under a blazer, while others like Burberry Prorsum featured a sophistocated but daring revealing lace skirt. While sheer fabrics usually breathe an air of sophisticated beauty, their new use juxtaposes this very nature. Is this new angle catching on? Street wear so often takes its cues from none other than the runway, and the runway has spoken. The combination of class with a hard edge is evidently popular now on models, but others may feel differently. “I think very few people will actually want to follow this trend,” LS freshman Leopoldo Gracia said. Many have expressed the belief that aspects of the fashion world are treated as reality, when they should be separate from real social norms. With issues of weight, race and nudity, some see that standards need to be specifically divided between fashion and reality. Others
view the fashion world as an influential catalyst and an initiator for better social movements in terms of self-imaging. “I think the fashion industry could be the perfect place for [this] to start, but it has to be a full revolution … completely edgy, rebellious and fierce … not cute, prissy clothes that
say, ‘Oh, this is sheer. This is lace.’ To show a bold, empowering woman, it has to say, ‘I’m wearing this, and I don’t give a damn,’ ” LS freshman Alex Tartt said. These attitudes could pose a realistic view of the future for street wear especially with women being able to bare their chests in public. The order by the NYPD to not arrest women exposing their breasts is a huge step in the way of feminism and was originally brought to light in the 1992 case of The People v. Santorelli and Schloss. The oversexualization and objectification of the female body makes the discussion of modesty so important. Alex Tartt continued her opinions on these social implications. “If you brand this trend in [a feminist] way, then it would totally make sense as being empowering, but the way women are portrayed in the media is so negative that I feel like you would have to make a purpose to say that that’s what you’re doing,” Tartt said, “because when you look at images [in the media] they’re already so overly sexual, so who’s going to draw that feminist conclusion from it?” As the culture eases up on compulsory modesty, who will see this as a step in the right direction? Our generation, as bearers of the latest social standards, must be willing to begin the newest portion of our social legacy by challenging the past. The fashion world is just the beginning, and it’s a crucial start. With these conditions, ready-to-wear and the world we live in could take a leap of faith and indeed become the barest of them all. David Bologna is a staff writer. Email him at bstyle@nyunews.com.
CUSTOM TAILORED GIFTS By KATE MARIN Choosing stylish gifts your friends and family will genuinely like can be one of the most difficult tasks of the holiday season. Skip the ill-fitting sweaters and the hats that will only gather dust at the back of the closet and opt for these fashionable finds instead. FOR THE CITY-DWELLER There’s little better than giving or receiving a gift that can actually be used. Headphones from Forever 21 are an inexpensive yet practical idea for anyone frequently on-the-go. They can accessorize a cozy outfit and give your ears a little extra protection from the winter chill. FOR THE MAKEUP-LOVER For most, 150 shades of eyeshadow may seem impractical, but for a friend who longs for a conveniently versatile palette, e.l.f. has the ideal gift. Purchase this cruelty-free, professional quality product online at eyeslipsface.com. FOR YOUR FAVORITE PROFESSOR Whether you’re attempting to raise that 89.3 percent grade up to an A, or simply thanking them for an enjoyable semester, it’s never a bad idea to stay on good terms with your college professors. Succulents and terrariums make a great casual gift and are relatively low-maintenance plants. You can purchase one for next-to-nothing at the Union Square Farmers Market, or stop by Plantworks on East Fourth Street for more variety. FOR THE IPHONE ADDICT A monogrammed iPhone case is one of the most easily personalized gifts. Whether your friend loves colorful patterns or more minimalistic designs, you can create your own image of their initials to best suit their preference. This is not only a great gift for both guys and girls, but it’s a smart way to treat someone to the monogram trend without being tacky. FOR THE FRIEND YOU JUST MADE It’s hard enough giving gifts to the people we know best, so when you’re in the market for a treat for someone you recently met, it may be best to go with something simple. For a nice touch, try a locally made candle, such as the 8 ounce jars offered by Brooklyn Candle Studio ($12). Definitely stay away from bold scents or statement-making accessories and stay as neutral as possible. Perhaps you could indulge them with a box of cupcakes from a local bakery, offering an assortment of different flavors — everyone loves a sweet treat. Kate Marin is a staff writer. Email her at bstyle@nyunews.com.
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WORD OF WISDOM FROM I N DU ST RY I N S I D E R S
ALEX OLSEN SERENA GUEN
PHOTOGRAPHER & VIDEOGRAPHER | Interviewed by Haley Steinberg Alex Olsen, CAS class of 2013, started his own visual design company a mere month after graduating from NYU. Alex Olsen Design Solutions is the product of Olsen’s fascination with the convergence of natural and manmade environments. With a major in urban design and architecture and double-minor in studio art and Italian studies, Olsen has found an outlet to combine these areas of interest with his passion for photography. In the past three months of running AODS, he has had the opportunity to shoot and edit fashion videos and photos for Emilio Pucci, Givenchy, Zimmermann and Celine, to name a few. He has also worked on web videos for the Department of Health and The New York State Bar Association. Olsen’s ultimate aim is to provide businesses with a full range of visual marketing solutions. Q: HOW DID YOUR CHOSEN AREAS OF STUDY INFLUENCE, AND CONTINUE TO INFLUENCE, YOUR WORK? A: After studying urban design and architecture for four years and interning in the marketing department at a Manhattan architecture firm, I realized that it was not only the aesthetics of the built environment that interested me, but also how art, people and culture all intertwine. My business tries to make sense of that intertwining by creating media (photos, video, graphic art, et cetera) that touches on the city’s most beautiful elements — fashion, music, architecture, education and public discourse. I cannot speak highly enough about the urban design department, whose interdisciplinary program and great faculty have fostered my growth both within and outside the field. Q: WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE KINDS OF THINGS TO PHOTOGRAPH AND FILM? A: When working on a film or photog-
raphy project, I find myself most drawn to the small details that too often go unnoticed — the beautiful patterns that form for a split second and then vanish, the way light reflects and refracts at certain moments, the way eyes can appear in candid photographs. Whether it’s capturing the way a guitarist’s hand rests while fretting a chord in a music video or emphasizing the movement of a model’s dress on the runway, I try to find a unique perspective in every project I’m involved with, which is something I most certainly developed from my urban design classes. Q: WHAT IN PARTICULAR DRAWS YOU TO FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY? A: It’s funny, I never would have thought in a million years I would be working in fashion. I’m not particularly fashionable, and I’ve always found myself, since a young age, creating things rather than buying or following trends. That being said, when I look at a fashion catalog or walk past showrooms on Fifth Avenue, I do get the beauty and appeal and find myself intrigued. With fashion, much like music, you get to work with aesthetic elements that are already considered art, and it is through your lens that you get to work with clothing and striking figures to create a completely new form of artwork and a completely new feeling. And since most of my work in fashion is behind the scenes, I still get that candid quality even in one of the most posed and selfaware industries. I’m more interested in the relationship between person and clothing when a model is between shows or backstage — times when the body is more natural and in my opinion, more beautiful. Haley Steinberg is a contributing writer. Email her at bstyle@nyunews.com.
SHINE BRIGHT Keep things festive this season by adding a little glitz and glamour to your holiday party look. By BRYNA SHUMAN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Interviewed by Dana Reszutek Serena Guen, a 2013 NYU Global Liberal Studies graduate, has already made strides in the fashion industry. After founding SUITCASE, a Londonbased fashion and travel publication while she was still a student at NYU, Guen has become one of the rising stars in the business and publishing world. Though she just finished her NYU experience only a few months ago, Guen has already been listed in the Top 1,000 Londoners by the Evening Standard, and has plans to expand her media presence globally.
of my holidays growing up visiting family all over the place and, as a result, I was lucky enough to be exposed to a lot of different cultures. However, it wasn’t until my degree at NYU when I actually spent two years in Paris and two years in New York that I understood the difference between living in a place (away from home) and visiting it as a tourist. I’ve always loved writing and really wanted to create something that portrays a destination accurately and give visitors the chance to truly experience it.
Q: HOW HAS YOUR TIME SPENT AT NYU INFLUENCED YOUR CAREER PATH AS OF YET?
Q: WHAT'S NEXT FOR YOU AND SUITCASE? ANY CHANGES OR NEW PLANS FOR THE PUBLICATION IN THE NEAR FUTURE?
A: NYU hasn’t just influenced my career path — it was an integral part of it. My degree in Global Liberal Studies taught me about great masters (and masterpieces) of cultures, most certainly, but more importantly it taught me a way of thinking that has been key to what I do.
A: We’ve just expanded the team and have big plans for the digital side of SUITCASE. I don’t know any publications that have got the balance right between print and digital yet and I am determined to get there first. We have an amazing editorial and design team, so fingers crossed, we are on our way.
Q: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE OVERALL CONCEPT OF YOUR PUBLICATION, SUITCASE? WHO IS THE TARGET AUDIENCE?
Q: WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ASPIRING PUBLICATION WRITERS OR EDITORS?
A: SUITCASE is a platform for young and inspiring individuals around the world to share their travel and fashion experiences with other young and inspiring individuals. Currently we only target young women but we still have a large male readership and plan to expand to cover both in the near future. Q: WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO WORK IN THE EDITORIAL FIELD AND FOCUS ON FASHION AND TRAVEL? A: I’m one of those not-from-anywhere-butreally-from-everywhere children typical of our generation. My father is Tunisian-German and my mother Italian-English, so I spent a lot
A: Start online and learn basic tech skills, even if it’s just Wordpress, and how to use social media to promote yourself and your work. Be wary if you are going to have social media — either make it private or use it effectively. People will judge a digital editor applicant if the person only has 50 twitter followers. Set monthly goals for yourself, achieve them no matter what and assess your progress at the end of each month — even if it’s just getting 50 more Instagram followers. Set a few longterm goals, too. Share them with someone experienced — it may seem scary, but it does make you want to achieve them. Dana Reszutek is a staff writer. Email her at bstyle@nyunews.com.
Eyeliner
Nail Polish
Glitter Spray
Make your eyes pop with a swipe of glitter eyeliner. To create a glam look that is not overdone, start with a basic black liquid liner, applied in a cat eye shape. Then, use the glitter eyeliner to trace a thin line across the top of the black liner. The glitter will draw attention to your eyes without looking too clown-like. Urban Decay carries a line of glitter eyeliners in a variety of colors. Experiment with gold, silver or any other neutral shade.
Let your hands do the talking with a glittery manicure. Keep things simple with a subdued, shimmery polish such as Butter London Nail Lacquer in Jack the Lad, or pack a punch by layering a multicolored, confetti polish like OPI Nail Lacquer in Polka over a basic black or navy nail. Be careful not to use the confetti polish without any color underneath — it leaves nails looking unfinished and unpolished. Consider painting your whole nail or simply adding accents.
Add a subtle sparkle to skin or hair by spritzing with glitter spray. Choose a shade to highlight complexion — gold for those with olive or beige tones and silver for cool-toned skin. Spray products like Jerome Russell B Wild Hair and Body Glitter Spray on the ends of your hair or a delicate body spray like Tarina Tarantino Sparklicity Shimmer Dust to your upper arms, neck and collarbone for a festive shimmer effect. Bryna Shuman is a staff writer. Email her at bstyle@nyunews.com.
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Raway
un
Making an escape has the incredible power to generate inspiration and offer new perspectives.
Photographed by Luca Khouri
Styled by Ariana DiValentino
7 STOLEN SOLACE Sometimes a breath of fresh, salty air is all you need to recharge from the chaos of city life. Madeline wears a Walter Baker cranberry dress and a Rubin & Chapelle grey linen jacket.
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GIRLS LIKE YOU A crimson-toned dress embodies a quiet sense of confidence even in the most wide open landscapes. Madeline wears a Walter Baker cranberry dress. Maria wears a Walter Baker cranberry bodycon dress.
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NOVELTY APPEAL A trip to anywhere can remind us not to take things too seriously. Kush wears a Hardy Amies navy jacket, white oxford, navy pants and grey stripe tie. Belt, model’s own.
10 ABOUT MARIA Maria Perica is a CAS sophomore from Maryland. She is pre-med and majoring in neuroscience. Maria, by nature, has a big heart and effortlessly impeccable sense of style. She has a reputation for being both the most intelligent and most fun guest at any party. NATURAL BEAUTY Few things glimmer more than the Atlantic at sunset. Maria wears a S.I.L.K. sweater and a Vibe Jewels headband.
11 BREATHING ROOM Simplicity, be it in the form of a classic white shirt or a misty ocean horizon, allows space to find freedom. Kush wears an Ernest Alexander white oxford and brown trousers.
12 ABOUT MADELINE Madeline Jafari hails from Austin, Texas. She has been dancing since she was nine years old and is now a firstyear Tisch dance major. Upon graduation, Madeline hopes to dance professionally and start a company of her own. In addition to dancing, she spends her time singing, doing yoga, laughing profusely, cooking vegetarian cuisine, hunting for vintage clothing and loving cats. BRIGHT AND CLEAR True style, like creative inspiration, comes from within. Madeline wears a Charlotte Ronson embroidered patterned dress. Denim jacket, model’s own.
13 TAKE A WALK Breaking away from everyone and everything for even an afternoon can provide an amazing sense of liberation. Maria wears a Walter Baker cranberry body-con dress. Shoes, model’s own.
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TENDER IS THE LIGHT The beach boardwalk holds as much glamour and nostalgia as classic American literature. Madeline wears a Walter Baker silver dress and a Vibe Jewels headband.
15 ABOUT KUSH Kush Faniswala is a current sophomore at NYU studying economics and pre-med. He’s always had an interest in fashion, and his time at boarding school helped develop his prep style. He hopes that the readers take some inspiration from this issue of Fringe. WANDERING GENERATION Being able to grab your coat and take off is one of the best parts of being young and irresponsible. Kush wears a Hardy Amies trenchcoat, Ernest Alexander burgundy-toned oxford and tartan tie.
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THIS LOST PARADISE Self-exploration is the journey of youth. You may be more amazed not by where you end up, but by what you find along the way. Madeline wears a Charlotte Ronson embroidered patterened dress. Kush wears an Ernest Alexander burgundy oxford, tartan tie and brown trousers. Maria wears a Charlotte Ronson plaid patchwork dress.
ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER Luca Khouri has been photographing independently for many years. He hails from Kingston, Jamaica, where his work has won much acclaim, having work published in SHE Caribbean, The Style Observer and MyTravel Insider. Khouri is currently a first-year Photography and Imaging student in Tisch School of the Arts. Contact Luca at lucakhouri.com ABOUT THE VENUE The weekend after the end of its season, Coney Island loses its typical sense of being a blaring summertime circus and assumes a subtly enchanting character. It becomes a getaway in a more whole and unexpected sense. Coney Island serves as the signature symbol for escapism in New York City.
Register for
Winter Session at Queens College
A great way to pick up extra credits in January. Earn up to 4 credits in 3 weeks.
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NYUNEWS .COM
WASHINGTON SQUARE NEWS
INFORMING YOU FIRST
Editor-in-Chief JONATHON DORNBUSH Managing Editor
Web Managing Editor
JORDAN MELENDREZ
HANQING CHEN
Creative Director
LYANNE NATIVIDAD
Styling Assistant
DANA RESZUTEK
Blog Editor
AMY ZHANG
Creative Director, Special Issues
KALEEL MUNROE
Beauty & Style Editor
ARIANA DIVALENTINO
Photographer
LUCA KHOURI
Contributors
DAVID BOLOGNA RACHEL KAPLAN KATE MARIN BRYNA SHUMAN HALEY STEINBERG HANNAH TREASURE
ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER
ELLEN MCQUEEN
CIRCULATION MANAGER
CHLOE COFFMAN SALES MANAGER
ALISON LIZZIO
PROMOTIONS MANAGER
KALEEL MUNROE UNIVERSITY AND ALUMNI COORDINATOR
CLAIRE MAHANY
SALES REPRESENTATIVES
ARIANA DIVALENTINO, ETHAN JACOBS
ADVISING DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS
NANCI HEALY EDITORS-AT-LARGE
JAEWON KANG, AMANDA RANDONE, EMILY YANG
About WSN: Washington Square News (ISSN 15499389) is the student newspaper of New York University. WSN is published Monday through Thursday during NYU’s academic year, except for university holidays, vacations and exam periods. Corrections: WSN is committed to accurate reporting. When we make errors, we do our best to correct them as quickly as possible. If you believe we have erred, contact managing editor Jordan Melendrez at managing@nyunews.com or at 212.998.4302.
Videographer
ALEX LINZMEIER
