Cosmetiscope November 2022

Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

…Roger L. McMullen

Natural ingredients offer a myriad of possibilities for developing effective cosmetic products. Their popularity has greatly increased over the past two decades in part due to a major shift in public opinion about the environment, human health, and wellbeing. Plant ingredients have been shown to be effective treatments of the skin for a number of conditions including erythema, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, photocarcinogenesis, and photoimmunosuppression. Nowadays, botanical ingredients are found in almost every type of cosmetic product for the skin In addition to plants, minerals are also natural ingredients. Some of the most common ones found in moder n day cosmetic products consist of iron oxides, zinc oxide, and titanium oxide, which are mostly used in sunscreen for mulations

Historical Perspective of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

Natural ingredients have been used in cosmetic products since antiquity The early Egyptians were renowned for their makeup preparations and other cosmetic ingredients used to cleanse and scent the body The most common cosmetic potions consisted of eye paints, facial paints, oils, and solid fats (ointments) 1 As an example, kohl is a paste/powder that was commonly used as eye shadow and is reported to have been made with galen ore, which contains lead sulfide A paste made from malachite, a green ore copper, was also used to color the eyes of the ancient Egyptians Some of t ingredients probably caused adverse reactions or could have led to serious d after prolonged use

Hair and nail dyeing in ancient Egypt was achieved using henna, which w from the plant Lawsonia iner mis, also known as the Egyptian privet Henna was also popular in ancient India and China as a hair dyeing agent. In India, henna was also used to paint designs on the hands and feet in the art known as mehndi 2 The early Egyptians also used fats and oils to apply to skin and hair, protecting them from the powerful sun rays and arid climate The Egyptians were also very astute on the use of fragrances They used many different types of herbs and oils, such as aloe, chamomile, lavender, myrrh, olive oil, pepper mint, sesame oil, and thyme.3

Tur meric, a traditional Indian spice from the root of Curcuma longa, was commonly used in Ayurvedic medicine as a therapeutic agent. It contains curcumin, which has anti inflammatory properties. In recent years, tur meric has become an extremely popular cosmetic ingredient for skin care preparations In traditional Chinese culture, skin was treated with oils and herbs Panax ginseng is one of the most popular ingredients in ancient herbal therapy and is still widely used today Rice powder was also popular and used to paint the face, serving as a for m of makeup that provided a whitish appearance and had the benefit of removing excessive oils. The use of nail polish dates back to ancient China, using egg whites, flowers, and beeswax 4 Unfortunately, not all members of society were per mitted to paint their nails. It was reserved for royals, who painted their nails gold and silver, and other members of the upper echelon of society

Chair

Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc org

Chair Elect

Stacey House chair elect@nyscc.org

Treasurer

Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc org

Treasurer Elect Alex Blakeman treasure elect@nyscc.org

Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc org

Advisor

Susanna Fer nandes advisor@nyscc.org

Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc org

At

Gino Macalino gmacalin@estee com

By Laws

Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Special

Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

Cosmetiscope

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Social

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Letter from the Chair …Giorgio Dell’Acqua

In this month of gratitude, the NYSCC is thankful for its members along with its committee chairs and board members who have worked hard (and will continue) to make this a stellar year for the Chapter The October educational programs were resounding successes. A beautiful day and iconic venue was the perfect setting for the sold out: “Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity” at the Central Park Boathouse and the “Strategy for the Future of a Sustainable Personal Care” resonated with attendees.

I am proud to have participated in the Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry Symposium on the campus of the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). Together with Chair Elect Stacey House, and members Toussaint Jordan, Dr Tao Zheng, Dr Amber Evans, and Dr Sue Feng, we were able to share our personal career journeys with FIT students and discuss hot topics in cosmetic chemistry and personal care All of us walked away from this event energized by the keen interest from this potential next generation of talent We can’t wait to replicate this program online at Rutgers University on November 28th

The Chapter has more on tap to keep members infor med and engaged with “Scalp and Skin Microbiome” on November 8th at Nanina's in the Park in Belleville, New Jersey This dinner event will feature expert speakers from Nutrafol, BASF, and L’Oréal.

On November 2nd there will be an enlightening webinar with the judges of the CEW Supplier’s Award talking about the innovative ingredients and for mulations from this year ’ s eight finalists of this prestigious award. Then, on December 1st, we will hold the “Sustainable Packaging and Componentry” webinar to cap off our year focused on sustainability and science

It was also a pleasure to attend and participate in other SCC chapter and industry events including the Carolina’s Naturally Kiawah Conference and the PCPC Science Symposium We are looking forward to hearing who will be announced the winner of the CEW Supplier’s Award and celebrating all their beauty award winners on November 11th.

A night not to be missed is the December 7th Educational Awards Ceremony at the Edison Ballroom. A record number of scholarships and grants will be given to various students, universities, and educational institutions to recognize outstanding achievement and efforts in producing this new class of cosmetic scientists The celebratory evening will include cocktails, dinner, and plenty of entertainment and networking along with the induction of the 2023 NYSCC Chapter Board of Directors

We end the year at the SCC’s 76th Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase in Los Angeles. If you are attending, please visit us in the showcase area and join us for a cocktail at our Press & Friends event on December 13th

Stay tuned for exciting updates

collaborations that are planned for Suppliers’ Day 2023, to solidify its standing as North America’s main event for ingredient and for mulation innovations

In closing, I wish

Events

to my fellow board and

The NYSCC History Project

Herman

The report by Harry Isacoff in the April 1988 issue of Cosmetiscope chronicles the locations of early meetings of the NYSCC and then takes the Chapter to New Jersey for the first time in October 1962 The meeting was held at Bur ns Country Inn in Clifton, which is now the Alexus Steakhouse and Taver n in the same building

New York Chapter Meeting Notes

New York Chapter meetings were held at the New York Academy of Sciences, the Chemists’ Club, and various restaurants and hotels in New York City Economics, to some extent, dictated where the Chapter meetings would be held The House Committee, in September 1958, received a bid from the New Yorker Hotel to hold Chapter meetings at $5 00 per person dinner cost The George Washington Hotel bid $4 50 Meetings were held at the George Washington Hotel.

An outstanding monthly meeting was held on May 6, 1959 at the Geigy Chemical Corp laboratory in Ardsley, New York. Over 300 members and guests attended the meeting. Geigy provided transportation, refreshments, a guided tour of the laboratories, and dinner Dr Irving Bland of the Department of Der matology, Massachussetts General Hospital, introduced Dr. Stephen Rothman, professor and head of the Section of Der matology in the Department of Medicine of the University of Chicago Dr Rothman’s topic was “Drugs in Cosmetics ”

An infor mal survey taken in 1962 indicated that some 50% of the Chapter members either lived in or were employed in New Jersey Chair man Martin Katz arranged for an Executive Committee meeting to be held at the Bur ns Country Inn, Clifton, New Jersey, on September 5, 1962 As a result, the October 1962 Chapter meeting was also held at Bur ns Country Inn There were 70 advance registrations and a guarantee of the Inn of 100 Despite apprehension about filling the guarantee, over 200 members and guests attended the meeting Chapter meetings at the Robin Hood and other New Jersey facilities followed this initial break from New York City.

The 1964 IFSCC meeting in New York City was outstanding in arrangements and procedure for taking care of over 800 registrants.

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Top Trending Ingredients and Formulas

Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award

Judges on this year’s finalists

November 2, 2022 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

Take a deep dive into the innovative ingredients and for mulations that were named finalists in CEW’s Beauty Creator Awards Ingredients/For mulation Category The webinar will feature the judges who represent major beauty/personal care brands and will be tasked with selecting the top winning supplier for this year ’ s CEW Supplier Award recognizing excellence in Ingredients and For mulation Register for the event today!

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Moderator

n Andrea Nagel VP of Content, CEW Andrea Nagel is the VP of Content at CEW where she has worked for nine years. In this role Andrea oversees CEW’s beauty news and information website and newsletter, as well identifies topics, companies, speakers, and discussion points for the organization’s 50+ events each year. Prior to CEW, Andrea was the Mass Market and Salon Beauty Editor at WWD

Judges

n Toussaint Jordan Senior Global Marketing Manager, Edgewell Toussaint Jordan is a Brand Manager at Edgewell where she is in charge of managing product marketing for Jack Black and Fieldtrip Skincare She has been working in Personal Care for nine years and is a graduate of the Cosmetic Science master’s program at Fairleigh Dickinson University Prior to her current role, she worked at Henkel Beauty Retail managing body and hand care innovation from ideation to commercialization She has also worked at Gattefossé USA, Verla Inter national, TRI K Industries, and Avon Her diverse background has given her a unique understanding of market trends, skin biology, ingredient technologies, and for mulation development

n Eileen Kim Head of U.S. Innovation and Research Prospective Team, Chanel Eileen Kim is the Head of U.S. Innovation and Research Prospective Team of Chanel. In her current role, she leads the U S team of scientists and chemist that develop makeup, skincare, and toiletry

innovations and products for Chanel worldwide. Eileen has spent the last 25 years working in cosmetic science Prior to Chanel, she worked for 13 years in various research and managerial positions at L’Oréal, in both the U S and France At L’Oréal, she developed color cosmetics, skincare, and toiletries products for brands such as Lancôme, Maybelline, L’Oréal, Ralph Lauren, Gar nier, and Kiehl’s She also spent two and a half years working in the L’Oréal Research and Development headquarters in Paris

Her educational background includes a Bachelor’s Degree in Chemistry from Seton Hall University and a Master’s of Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management from Fashion Institute of Technology In addition to her focus in cosmetic science, she is a state board licensed Cosmetologist in the state of New Jersey, a state board licensed Esthetician in the state of New York, and is certified in Makeup Artistry from Make up Designory, NYC

n Ron Robinson Founder and CEO, BeautyStat.com

Ron is a veteran cosmetic chemist with over 20 years of experience in creating innovative, big selling beauty products for leading beauty brands (Revlon, Avon, L’Oréal, Esteé Lauder, Clinique) Ron recently started his own beauty brand, BeautyStat Cosmetics. His brand, already an award winner, was called out as one of the most Google searched beauty brands due in part to its best selling vitamin C serum (Universal C Skin Refiner) that has been named one of the best by Oprah Magazine, Allure, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar He is also a resident beauty expert for Allure magazine

n Mike Wong, Ph.D. Chief Science Office, Orveon (bareMinerals, Buxom, Laura Mercier)

Mike Wong has 25+ years of broad experience in various consumer products categories After receiving his B S (University of Tulsa; Chemistry & Mathematics) and Ph D (University of Illinois; Chemistry), Mike joined Colgate Palmolive in Oral Care He has subsequently worked for L’Oréal (Hair Care), Henkel (Laundry/Home Care and Personal Care), Scotts Miracle Gro (Garden), and EOS (Personal Care). H e is currently the VP of Technical Services at H2O+ He has led domestic and inter national teams (including expat assignments in Belgium and Ger many). Mike has over 20 patents and publications

In his spare time, Mike enjoys playing volleyball, hiking, biking, and traveling He has been to over 30 countries.

n Tao Zheng Director of Advanced Technologies/Material Science, The Estée Lauder Companies

Dr Tao Zheng is an innovation leader and material scientist with 20 years of experience in the personal care industry He joined The Estée Lauder Companies in 2019 as Director of Material Science and Makeup Innovation He leads a team of scientists to create, design, and implement key Makeup Charter Innovation programs to develop breakthrough technology platfor ms for cosmetic brands including Estée Lauder, Clinique, La Mer, MAC, Origins, Smashbox, Bobbi Brown, and Tom Ford Beauty Prior to Estée Lauder, Dr Zheng headed the Sun Care and Skin Care Innovation group at Edgewell Personal Care for seven years, where he developed OTC products and the technology pipeline for Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic brands, the leading sun care brands in the U S and global markets In addition, he developed antibacterial wipes for the Wet Ones brand.

Prior to Edgewell, he worked at Avon as Program Manager for 12 years, driving color cosmetics and skin care innovations He also worked at Procter & Gamble for oral care and denture adhesive innovation Dr. Zheng received his B.S. degree in Polymer Material Science from Tsinghua University, Ph.D. degree in Chemical Engineering from University of Cincinnati, and MBA degree from New York University Ster

School of Business. He holds 30+ patents and patent applications worldwide in polymer materials and for mulation technologies

plant-based

research activities for textile and hair surfaces. She ear ned a Bachelor’s of Technology in Chemical Engineering from India and received a Master’s of Science in Chemical Engineering at North Carolina Agriculture and Technical State University focusing on purification of drinking water

Speaker Biographies

n Nicole Townsend

Nicole Townsend is currently the Research and Product Innovation Manager for Nutrafol with specific expertise in biochemistry and microbiology In this role, she has pioneered scalp microbiome solutions through extensive R&D, clinical studies, and product development Nicole studied Biochemistry at Columbia University with a certified degree by the American Chemical Society, focusing on hair biology and for mulation/synthetic chemistry for product applications.

n Allison Garlet

Allison Garlet is a Technical Service Specialist for BASF’s Bioactive Ingredients portfolio and is based out of Tarrytown, New York She has a B S in Biology from Seton Hall University and a M S in Microbiology and Molecular Genetics from Rutgers University. She has a technical background with a focus in microbial physiology, biofilms, and skin microbiomics research She was awarded the SCC’s Young Scientist Award at the 75th Annual Scientific Meeting and Showcase in 2021.

n Amina Bouslimani, Ph.D.

Currently a Senior Scientist at L’Oréal Research & Innovation, Amina establishes external partnerships with academia and industry to accelerate knowledge on the skin microbiome and identify new technologies and actives for compromised skin Amina completed her Ph.D. in Biochemistry and Biomedical Sciences at the University of Montpellier in France where she studied the penetration and intra tumoral metabolism of chemotherapeutic drugs in clinical samples using imaging mass spectrometry techniques.

Amina completed a postdoctoral fellowship and then worked as a Project Scientist at the University of Califor nia San Diego in Professor Pieter Dorrestein’s laboratory She developed mass spectrometry based tools to analyze and visualize large scale metabolomics data and to link skin metabolites to their associated microbes Her research interests were studying the impact of individual lifestyles on skin metabolites and microbes, identifying molecular signatures associated to skin conditions, and forensic applications to link skin chemical signatures to molecular traces transferred to everyday objects.

Call for Papers

The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front page article published during the calendar year Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical perfor mance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor.

Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu.edu

Natural ingredients were also used in cosmetics in other periods of history as well In biblical times, the Hebrews used oils obtained from various plant and animal sources as emollients to protect the skin from the arid environment and intense solar radiation. In addition, red ochre (an iron oxide) was used for painting the lips, ash and beeswax for painting the nails, and herbal perfumes were applied to the skin and clothing 5 During the early Roman Empire, Pliny the Elder (Gaius Plinius Secundus), who was a prolific author, naturalist, and philosopher, wrote about the control of perspiration using a mixture of rue, rose oil, and Aloe vera 6

In the wester n tradition, the use of natural ingredients in cosmetics continued through the Middle Ages and Renaissance all the way to the 19th century, although the overall use of cosmetics fluctuated throughout history most likely due to sociological and economic factors Curiously, at the dawn of the 20th century, color cosmetics were not very popular in wester n societies, and even frowned upon for women to wear in public In the United States and many other wester n cultures, this attitude began to change significantly as movie stars began wearing makeup products in Hollywood films. During this period, there was a flurry of activity in the development of highly functional synthetic ingredients that enjoyed widespread use in cosmetic products However, the most recent natural ingredient movement began to take place in the late 1990s and early 2000s as the population became more concer ned with health, wellbeing, and global environmental conditions

Botanical Ingredients

The increasing awareness of the health benefits of phytochemicals has led to a transfor mation in the cosmetic industry.7 The recent explosion of the use of herbal ingredients in cosmetic products began with ingredients that offered improvement in the physiological condition of the skin by treatment with for mulas containing plant ingredients 8 This movement evolved to include a greater effort to replace conventional synthetic ingredients that carried other functions in the for mula, such as rheology modifiers, emollients, cleansing agents, etc 9 Today, there are even some for ms of cosmetic packaging that are based on natural or naturally derived ingredients.

There are numerous plant ingredients that are used in cosmetic products for their cosmeceutical properties. Some of the most common ingredients include Aloe vera, Camellia sinensis (tea polyphenols), Capparis spinosa flower buds, Culcitium reflexum H B K leaf, Curcuma longa (curcumin), French maritime pine bark (pycnogenol) Gingko biloba, pomegranate fruit, red orange, Sanguisorba officinalis L root, Sedum telephium L. leaf, and Silybum marianum (silymarin). Extracts of natural products contain polyphenols and other phytonutrients that have beneficial effects for the skin Plants evolved to produce these ingredients to protect themselves from environmental insults, including har mful UV radiation.

Many botanicals have been used for millennia in traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda Nowadays, there is a flurry of activity in the skin care market with similar types of ingredients, due to a growing body of scientific evidence demonstrating their utility as skin therapeutic agents. Among other things, botanical ingredients have shown promise as anti inflammatories for skin to treat rosacea, preventative agents against melanoma, bioactives for the treatment of skin aging, and protective agents against UV induced immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis 10

Incorporating plant ingredients into cosmetics can also present challenges to the for mulator in ter ms of stability and delivery 11 For this reason, there have been many efforts focused on developing carrier systems for botanical ingredients 10,12 Most of these carriers are emulsions, vesicular systems, or lipid particulate systems. Emulsions for this type of application usually are microemulsions, nanoemulsions, micro nanoemulsions, multilayer emulsions, or Pickering emulsions Common vesicular systems consist of liposomes, ethosomes, phytosomes, and transferosomes. The two most popular lipid particulate systems are solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers

Polysaccharide Ingredients

Polysaccharides from many natural sources are used in cosmetics They are often added to for mulas as rheology modifiers but may also be used for a variety of other functions, such as providing moisture to the skin or enhancing the styling properties of hair. The most common polysaccharides found in cosmetic products are agar, alginate, carrageenan, derivatives of cellulose (e g , hydroxyethylcellulose), chitin, chitosan, dextrin, guar gum derivatives, gum arabic, hyaluronic acid, pectins, starch derivatives, and xanthan gum In addition to the applications already mentioned, polysaccharides are also found in masks and shampoos/body washes (coacervate agent) Several different polysaccharides may also be included in personal care products for their antibacterial, antiviral, anticoagulant, anticancer, antioxidant, and immunomodulating activity 13 Overall, they have a long and safe history of use in cosmetic products

Essential Oils

Essential oils enjoy widespread utility in cosmetic products due to their pleasant odor and biological activity 14 16 They are highly concentrated liquid mixtures of small molecules (mostly aromatic compounds, terpenes, and terpenoids) extracted from the bark, buds, flowers, fruits, leaves, rhizomes, roots, and seeds of plants.14 Some of the most common essential oils found in cosmetic products are citronellol, citrus, eucalyptus, geraniol, lavender, limonene, linalool, and tea tree 16 If formulated at low concentrations, essential oils are relatively safe. However, at higher concentrations their use may result in skin sensitivity reactions and even the development of allergies 15 In addition to their aromatic characteristics, essential oils have analgesic, antibiotic, and antiviral properties For this reason, there is a great deal of interest in aroma therapy and its positive health benefits.

Toxicological Considerations

There is some concern about the safety and toxicology of natural in This mostly stems from the presence of ingredients that are not listed labels of cosmetic products For example, citral, far nesol, limonene, limanol fragrance compounds present in many natural ingredien products can illicit allergic reactions.17 Further more, there could be many molecules in the for mula that are only listed as one ingredient On the other hand, it has been argued that exposure to natural toxi substances in personal care products is probably not the principal rou of exposure Rather, direct exposure to vegetation and agricultural cro considered the most dominant pathway.18 Skin sensitization is another with the use of botanical ingredients 19 As an example, the Fever (Tanacetum parthenium), known for its anti inflammatory properti parthenolide, which is a potent skin sensitization agent Therefore, b produce parthenolide free bioactives is a key challenge to provide a n product for skin care 20, 21

Concluding Remarks

Natural ingredients have a long history in cosmetics products Overall, there has been a great deal of renewed interest in their inclusion in contemporary personal care for mulas. Combined with moder n analytical and process technology, today’s cosmetic chemist has the opportunity to participate in the large scale transfor mation of the personal care industry

References

1 Lucas, A , Cosmetics, perfumes, and incense in ancient Egypt J Egypt Arch, 1930 16(1/2): p 41 53.

2 Nayak, M and V Ligade, History of cosmetics in Egypt, India, and China J Cosmet Sci, 2021 72: p 432 441

3. Chaudhri, S. and N. Jain, History of cosmetics. Asian J Phar m, 2009. 3(3): p. 164 167.

4 Madnani, N and K Khan, Nail cosmetics Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol, 2012 78: p 309 317

5. Parish, L. and J. Crissey, Cosmetics: A historical review. Clin Der matol, 1988. 6(3): p. 1 4.

Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

6 Bostock, J and H Riley, Rue: eighty four remedies, in Remedies Derived from the Garden Plants. 1855, Taylor and Francis: London, UK.

7 Dini, I and S Laneri, The new challenge of green cosmetics: natural food ingredients for cosmetic for mulations Molecules, 2021 26: p 3921

8. González Minero, F. and L. Bravo Díaz, The use of plants in skin care products, cosmetics, and fragrances: Past and present Cosmetics, 2018 5: p 50

9 Bom, S , M Fitas, A Martins, P Pinto, H Ribeiro, and J Marto, Replacing synthetic ingredients by sustainable natural alter natives: A case study using topical O/W emulsions. Molecules, 2020. 25: p 4887

10 McMullen, R , Antioxidants and the Skin 2nd ed 2019, Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press

11. Hoang, H., J. Moon, and Y. Lee, Natural antioxidants from plant extracts in skincare cosmetics: Recent applications, challenges, and perspectives Cosmetics, 2021 8: p 106

12 Yang, S , L Liu, J Han, and Y Tang, Encapsulating plant ingredients for der mocosmetic application: An updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2020 42: p 16 28

13 Ahsan, H , The significance of complex polysaccharides in personal care for mulations J Carbohydr Chem, 2019. 38: p. 213 233.

14 Abate, L , A Bachheti, R Kumar Bachheti, A Husen, M Getachew, and D Pandey, Potential role of forest based plants in essential oil production: An approach to cosmetic and personal health care applications, in Non Timber Forest Products: Food, Healthcare, and Industrial Applications, A Husen, R Kumar Bachheti, and A Bachheti, Editors 2021, Sprinter Nature: Cham, Switzerland p 1 18

15. Sarkic, A. and I. Stappen, Essential oils and their single compounds in cosmetics A critical review Cosmetics, 2018 5: p 11

16 Shar meen, J , F Mahomoodally, G Zengin, and F Maggi, Essential oils as natural sources of fragrance compounds for cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Molecules, 2021. 26: p. 666.

17 Klaschka, U , Natural personal care products analysis of ingredient lists and legal situation Environ Sci Eur, 2016 28: p 8

18. Bucheli, T., B. Strobel, and H. Hansen, Personal care products are only one of many exposure routes of natural toxic substances to humans and the environment Cosmetics, 2018 5: p 10

19 Puginier, M , A Roso, H Groux, C Gerbeix, and F Cottrez, Strategy to avoid skin sensitization: application to botanical cosmetic ingredients. Cosmetics, 2022. 9(2): p. 40.

20 Koganov, M , Parthenolide free bioactive ingredients from Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) and processes for their production and use U S Patent No 7,537,791 2009

21. Sur, R., K. Martin, F. Liebel, P. Lyte, S. Shapiro, and M. Southall, Anti inflammatory activity of parthenolide depleted Feverfew (Tancetum parthenium) Inflammophar macology, 2009 17(1): p 42 49

About the Author

Dr Roger McMullen has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, LLC and leads their Material Science team. Roger has over 30 publications in peer reviewed jour nals and textbooks. He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition and founded the online news magazine The Cosmetic Chemist (www thecosmeticchemist com) Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph D in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University

Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry He frequently teaches continuing education courses for the SCC and TRI Princeton In addition, Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M S degrees in Cosmetic Science and Phar maceutical Chemistry Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U S Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48) He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan and currently is lear ning to play the classical guitar.

Society of Cosmetic Chemists Announces 2022 Prestigious Award Winners

October 12, 2022 New York, NY The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) is pleased to announce the winners of these prestigious awards being presented during the in person Society’s 76th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase being held December 12 14, 2022, at the JW Marriott LA Live in Los Angeles, Califor nia

n MAISON G. deNAVARRE MEDAL AWARD

“This year, the Society is presenting its highest honor to David C. Steinberg in recognition of his industry expertise and contributions to advancing cosmetic science,” said Erica O’Grady, CAE, Chief Executive Officer of the Society “We are pleased to recognize all that he has accomplished during his exceptional career ”

award recognizes Mr. Steinberg’s activity in supporting the best interests of the cosmetic industry through his various technical contributions, which include: founding of the M.S. in Cosmetic Science program at Farleigh Dickinson University (1982); author of five industry textbooks and chapter authorship in eleven other books; numerous regulatory accomplishments in North America and the EU; course instructor and educator; and his service as advisory board member for many industry publications He was also recognized as a Technical Fellow of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in 1987 and has received many other industry accolades and awards David retired in December 2021 from Steinberg & Associates but remains active on its Board of Directors.

n SCC MERIT AWARD

“Bart Maxon has been an outstanding advocate for the benefits of SCC membership,” said Erica O’Grady, CAE, Chief Executive Officer of the Society “We are thrilled to honor him with the 2022 SCC Merit Award A tireless champion of the SCC and its mission to advance cosmetic science, we thank Bart for his dedication and service to SCC over the years ” During Bart’s 23+ years of membership, he had the inspiration to co found and serve as the first Chairperson of SCC’s Michigan Chapter He has also volunteered as a CEP instructor, speaker, National Board Area Director, and Fellow Certification Committee member

Bart Maxon is a Senior Technical Service & Development Scientist for DOW Home and Personal Care Group. He has over 39 years of experience in the personal care, healthcare, and medical diagnostics industries and has been with Dow/Dow Cor ning for over 26 years in a variety of roles within their Beauty Care and Health Care businesses. He holds 20 patents and has a Bachelor of Science in Biology from Central Michigan University and a second Bachelor of Science in Chemistry from Northeaster n Illinois University He also serves on the board of the Disability Network of Mid Michigan (DNMM) and is the North American Leader for Dow’s Disability Employee Network (DEN) Employee Resource Group Bart was also recognized as a Technical Fellow of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in 2014.

n FLORENCE WALL WOMEN IN COSMETIC CHEMISTRY AWARD

“We are elated to present the Society’s award honoring a woman ’ s scientific and leadership contributions to the cosmetics and personal care industry to Dr. Mindy Goldstein,” said Erica O’Grady, CAE, Chief Executive Officer of the Society “Mindy is a well respected subject matter expert, inspirational leader, and a distinguished contributor to the field of cosmetic science.”

Mindy received a B S with honors in Biochemistry, M S in Pathology, and Ph D in Basic Medical Sciences

from New York University. She holds 3 patents and has authored texts and articles for various publications during her more than 31 years of active membership in the SCC She also served two ter ms as SCC National President; President of the Long Island Chapter; a member of the Committee on Scientific Affairs and various other SCC Committees; served as Associate Editor of the Jour nal of Cosmetic Science; recipient of the SCC Merit Award (2010); and was also recognized as a Technical Fellow of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in 2002 She currently serves on the PCPC Nomenclature Committee where she Chairs the subcommittee on biotechnology, botanicals, and fer ments

This award is generously sponsored by Rodan+Fields, a premium skincare brand built on a legacy of innovative der matology inspired skincare products backed by clinical results and founded by two of the industry’s most recognizable women, Drs. Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields.

“The SCC is proud to highlight the extraordinary work, cutting edge research, and advancements that our members have achieved in the cosmetic sciences,” said Michelle Hines, Ph D , 2022 SCC National Board President and Director of Product For mulation at Mary Kay, Inc. “These winners join a long and prestigious list of accomplished professionals who have been recognized by their peers for their outstanding contributions to the SCC and our industry.”

See these outstanding individuals accept their awards. Register for the SCC 76th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase, December 12 14, 2022, in Los Angeles at www.scconline.org/SCC76.

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