SEPTEMBER 2016 • Vol. 22 No. 7
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Table of Contents NYSCC Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Workshop 1-4
Abstracts and Speaker Biographies 2-4
Program Agenda 2
Registration Information 2
Event Chairs/Organizers 2
Location 2
www.nyscc.org
Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Workshop – Science, Marketing, and Regulations September 6, 2016 Chart House Weehawken, NJ
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Symposium Chair: Nava Dayan
anufacturers of raw materials and finished cosmetic products conduct topical human exposure studies with the aim of drawing consumers through appealing claims. Market competition often drives aggressive campaigns that may be confusing and misleading, compounded by studies which may be poorly designed and executed, and scientific data which could be incorrectly interpreted. In recent years, cosmetics manufacturers have come under increased scrutiny from the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Federal Trade Commission (FTC) for advertising claims. The advertising industry’s self-regulatory forum, the National Advertising Division (NAD), further examines truth and accuracy of national advertising claims. With the skin care industry striving to produce safer products, it should also focus its scientific resources towards better testing regimens demonstrating a product’s efficacy, which can support advertising claims. Establishing common criteria to support advertising claims is challenging given that claims are driven by the testing on an individual product. This workshop brings together experts from the industry and regulatory world to provide guidance on sound scientific practices and demonstrate how to ensure advertising claims match the underlying science.
N Y S C C 8 T H September
A N N U A L C U L I N A R Y E V E N T 12 • Midtown Loft & Terrace
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2016 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS
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Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 chairelect@nyscc.org Cathy Piterski (201) 675-3799 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com
SECRETARY Giorgino Macalino (862) 324-2749 Secretary@nyscc.org
ADVISOR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com
HOUSE
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John Carola JohnC@protameen.com
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COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Joe Albanese (908) 456-2968 joealbanese2@gmail.com
COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Joel Diaz diaz.joel.a@gmail.com
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(Continued from page 1)
Break
10:45 a.m. – 11:45 a.m.
Advertising Self-Regulation and Cosmetics Claim Substantiation – Annie Ugurlayan (National Advertising Division) Lunch
1:00 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.
Clarifying Rules for Cosmetics Claims—FTC Advertising Law Basics – Serena Viswanathan (Federal Trade Commission)
2:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.
Claim Substantiation: Best Practices for Avoiding Unwanted Attention from Government Regulators and Private Plaintiff Lawyers – Ronie Schmelz (Tucker Ellis LLP)
3:00 p.m. – 3:15 p.m.
Break
3:15 p.m. – 4:15 p.m.
Ethics: What Connects Cosmetic Science and Product Claims – Ken Richman (MCPHS)
4:15 p.m. – 5:00 p.m.
Panel Discussion Q&A Period
Registration Information • Non-member – $75 • Unemployed member – $10
Event Chairs/Organizers • Nava Dayan, Ph.D. – Dr. Nava Dayan LLC (nava.dayan@verizon.net) • Mohamed Abdulla – SEPPIC (mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com) • Daphne Benderly, Ph.D. – Presperse Corporation (dbenderly@presperse.com)
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Workshop Location Chart House Lincoln Harbor, Pier D-T, 1700 Harbor Boulevard, Weehawken, NJ Tel: (201) 348-6628 • www.chart-house.com
Gillian Ratto (723) 788-7320 Gillian.Ratto@elementis.com Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu
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To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
COMMUNICATIONS
COSMETISCOPE EDITOR
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Introduction—Why Claim? – Nava Dayan (Dr. Nava Dayan LLC)
• SCC member – $35 • Student (ID required) – $10 • Emeritus member – $0
MEMBERSHIP
SPECIAL EVENTS
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10:30 a.m. – 10:45 a.m.
11:45 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.
TREASURER
Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 webmaster@nyscc.org
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Program Agenda 9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m.
CHAIR-ELECT
John Goffredo (267) 318-6168 john.goffredo@univarusa.com
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NYSCC Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Workshop – Science, Marketing, and Regulation
CHAIR
PROGRAM
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Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Workshop
Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 reyordiales@outlook.com
Mohamed Abdulla (973) 487-6572 house@nyscc.org
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Abstracts and Speaker Biographies
9:30 – 10:30 a.m.
Introduction—Why Claim? Nava Dayan
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hy do cosmetic products carry claims? What is the difference between purpose of use and marketing claims? Can science be translated to fair claims for the average consumer to understand? Where are we heading with claims in the industry?
Biography Nava Dayan, Ph.D. has twenty-six years of experience in the skin care segment, and has yielded more than 150 publication credits in numerous industry respected journals and books. She was awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold S E P T E M B E R
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Award for innovation and was given commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence. Dr. Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan LLC, a skin science and research consultancy serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries (dermal and transdermal). Dr. Dayan advises on product feasibility in skin care as well as efficacy and toxicology. She also advises teams in planning, executing, and interpreting data of claims, formulations, delivery for improved efficacy, and attenuated toxicity. Sample areas of expertise include: drug-skin interaction, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity, and biota. She can be contacted at nava.dayan@verizon.net.
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10:30 – 10:45 a.m. Break
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10:45 – 11:45 a.m.
Advertising Self-Regulation and Cosmetics Claim Substantiation
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Annie Ugurlayan
n this session, we will learn about the advertising self-regulatory forum and its approach to claim substantiation as it relates to cosmetics cases.
Biography Annie Ugurlayan is a Senior Staff Attorney at the National Advertising Division of the Advertising Self-Regulatory Council. Since 2003, she has handled over 200 cases and has successfully argued appeals before the National Advertising Review Board. Annie is also a frequent lecturer at conferences nationwide and abroad, particularly those with a focus on cosmetics and personal care products. She is also a published author. Annie is actively involved in various bar associations, serves on the Board of Directors of the New York Women’s Bar Association Foundation and is a Fellow of the American Bar Foundation. She is fluent in French and Armenian and proficient in Romanian. Annie is a graduate of Hamilton College (B.A., magna cum laude – French and World Politics) and Hofstra University School of Law.
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11:45 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.
Lunch
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1:00 – 2:00 p.m.
Clarifying Rules for Cosmetics Claims—FTC Advertising Law Basics
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Serena Viswanathan
n this presentation, we will provide an overview of the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC’s) laws against deceptive advertising, guidance on how to substantiate your advertising claims, and examples of recent cases the FTC has brought against cosmetics sellers.
Biography
Serena Viswanathan is Assistant Director in the Federal Trade Commission’s Division of Advertising Practices, where she supervises enforcement actions against deceptive and unfair advertising practices. Since joining the Commission in 2000, she has investigated and litigated deceptive advertising cases on a broad range of products, including dietary supplements, cosmetics, devices, and foods. She graduated from the University of California, Berkeley and received her law degree (Continued on page 4) from Georgetown University Law Center.
Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu V O L U M E
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Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Workshop
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(Continued from page 3)
2:00 – 3:00 p.m.
Claim Substantiation: Best Practices for Avoiding Unwanted Attention from Government Regulators and Private Plaintiff Lawyers
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Ronie Schmelz
uring this session you will learn what steps you can take to reduce the likelihood that your advertising practices will draw the attention of the National Advertising Division (NAD), Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and Federal Trade Commission (FTC). We will also discuss: best practices you can employ to strengthen your position should you find yourself the subject of a regulatory inquiry; how to avoid becoming the target of a consumer class action; and ways to successfully defend consumer class actions.
Biography Ronie Schmelz, Tucker Ellis LLP, represents clients in broad-based commercial litigation, with a particular emphasis on consumer class action defense. She also regularly counsels clients on: litigation-avoidance strategies and ensuring compliance with state and federal laws, including regulations enforced by the FDA, FTC, and other regulatory agencies; California Proposition 65; and advertising, labeling, and claim substantiation. Ronie has profound industry knowledge in the representation of domestic and international companies in the cosmetics, personal care, and consumer product industries. Ronie is active in several trade and professional organizations serving the personal care product and insurance industries, and is regularly sought out to speak at industry conferences. She spent the first twentyfive years of her career practicing in the Los Angeles office of Sidley Austin LLP, where she represented clients in complex commercial litigation, consumer class actions, real estate, health care, reinsurance disputes, and governmental investigations.
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3:00 – 3:15 p.m.
Break
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3:15 – 4:15 p.m.
Ethics: What Connects Cosmetic Science and Product Claims
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Ken Richman
egal compliance, market trends, and pressure to maximize sales are just some of the factors influencing the claims used in packaging and marketing of cosmetics and personal care products. What about ethics? Is ethics another factor in addition to these? Is compliance with laws and industry standards enough to satisfy our ethical obligations? This session will present concepts and vocabulary for identifying and addressing ethical issues across domains, with special emphasis on product claims. Drawing on philosophical concepts from Aristotle, Kant, and others, we will discuss ways to integrate ethical discussion into everyday business decisions.
Biography Kenneth A. Richman is Professor of Philosophy and Healthcare Ethics at MCPHS (formerly the Massachusetts College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences) in Boston. He grew up in South Orange, New Jersey, and studied philosophy at Haverford College, the University of Oxford (UK), and Rutgers University. As a philosopher working in the field of bioethics, Ken regularly works with researchers and institutions to promote the responsible conduct of research in both academic and business contexts. His work as a consultant and speaker for the cosmetics and personal products industry has focused on identifying ethical liability in research practices, especially involving human research participants. More information about his work is available at www.richmanweb.com.
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4:15 – 5:00 p.m.
Panel Discussion Q&A Period
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NYSCC Historian
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he NYSCC Executive Board would like to welcome our new Historian, Sophia Chen. If there are any historical documents, photographs, etc. that you would like to share with other members of the NYSCC, please contact Sophia. She can be reached at historian@nyscc.org.
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Analytical Solutions for Cosmetics and Personal Care September 15, 2016
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Waters Corporation • Parsippany, NJ
he Cosmetics and Personal Care industry is driven by fast-moving trends and consumers’ unending search for novel products. To meet your growth and profitability goals, you need to continuously pursue accelerated innovation and ever-shorter product development cycles; all in an increasingly regulated environment. The analytical laboratory is central to these objectives. Are you facing analytical challenges in counterfeit detection, raw materials testing, formulation testing, safety and regulatory testing, quality control, or active ingredient testing? If so, please join Waters scientists for an informative and practical session on analytical technologies for the Cosmetics and Personal Care industry. More info: www.waters.com/CPC915
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NYSCC Professional Development Symposium October 6, 2016
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Kean University, STEM Building • Union, NJ
t this year’s NYSCC Professional Development Symposium we plan to help expand our members’ educational awareness beyond our industry’s latest technologies by offering a focus on how each member can excel by being their BEST SELF in a very competitive and challenging market. The program will focus on key habits of successful people and how to direct our passion to achieve results while still maintaining the proper balance between life and work. As an added bonus, we have included a fun and informal networking Oktoberfest to this event to aide our members’ professional development by meeting and learning from each other.
Registration Making Personal Personal Car Caree Beautiful®
Specialty Silicones & Actives Skin Car Caree Hair Care Care Color Cosmetics ®
www.biosiltech.com
Attendee Type Early Registration (Prior to Sept. 28th) Late Registration Members $55 $65 Non-members $75 $85 Students/Unemployed $20 $30 Emeritus $0 $10 To register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
Event Committee • Steve Fantano, Chair – Mobius Sales Group (slfantan@mobiussales.com) • Daria Long, Chair – Lucas Meyers Cosmetics (daria.long@lucasmeyercosmetics.com) • Mohamed Abdulla – SEPPIC (mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com) • Jenna Jelinski – IMCD US – (jennajelinski@yahoo.com)
Location The Professional Development Symposium will be held at Kean University’s new STEM Building (New Jersey’s Center for Science Technology & Mathematics) with a view of the Manhattan skyline. Plenty of free, adjacent parking awaits us at this new venue for the NYSCC. Use the following address for your GPS: 1075 Morris Avenue, Union, NJ.
Guest Speakers:
Lifestyle Balance for Optimum Performance – Josh Skube
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e have all fallen victim to narrowing the scope of our attention onto a solitary goal. Often times, we laser-focus our attention on an important work-related goal. It is true that more time and energy and less distraction will lead to better results for our goal. However, this intense, prolonged focus can diminish the quality of other, equally important, aspects of our life. Inevitably, everything held dear, even the task at hand, begins to unravel. What if I told you that sacrificing the other aspects of your life wasn’t necessary? What if I told you that achieving your goal would not suffer either? Finding your lifestyle balance will not only help you achieve your goal, but make you happier and more productive during the process. Let us begin with identifying one powerful habit that, if you could consistently achieve it, would advance your quest for lifestyle balance and optimum performance. You will learn ways to foster this positive habit and make it stick through implementation of proper mindset, motivation, and effective strategies. Once this habit becomes a part of you again, the lights will be on and shining bright, the sounds you listen to will be vibrant, mental acuity will be sharp, and life will again be in harmony. With the discovery of lifestyle balance we will be reaching our goals by increasing productivity through efficiency and focus, all while living in the moment.
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Josh Skube
Mr. Skube, graduated from Indiana University with an M.S. degree, specializing in Exercise Physiology and Human Performance. His focus on the sport psychology behind mentally preparing for and getting through extreme stress is integrated in all facets of his training and teaching. For 15 years the University of Notre Dame has sought Skube’s leadership and teaching excellence in guiding students toward positive health habits. His course topics have focused on stress management, sleep management, nutrition, healthy relationships, fitness and exercise prescription, substance abuse, weight management, eating disorders, time management, and behavior modification. Skube’s influence at the University of Notre Dame has also impacted the athletic domain. As the assistant coach for women’s and men’s swimming, Skube has guided the training of 28 NCAA participants, 8 AllAmericans, and 16 honorable mention All-Americans. He is celebrated for helping to coach 5 Big East women’s team championships and the men's first Big East championship in 2004-2005. He has been instrumental in the success of Olympians—Jilen Siroky (United States) and Christel Bouvron (Singapore)—as well as the American record holder and first NCAA champion for the University of Notre Dame, Emma Reaney. Skube is a USA triathlon certified coach and accomplished triathlete competing in the Ironman 70.3 world championships and coaching rising youth to the ITU short course world championships.
Living Principles for True Success – Kathleen Sullivan, Ph.D.
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his highly interactive, engaging session will reference the principles of the 7 Habits to frame our exploration for achieving true success. You will develop a tool box of practical ideas to enhance your effectiveness at work and for greater personal satisfaction. We will detect blind spots that detract from achieving what truly matters to you and replace those barriers with concrete solutions. We will integrate the challenges presented from Josh Skubes’ session into our application of the key success principles. n
Kathleen Sullivan, Ph.D.
Dr. Sullivan received her doctorate degree in English from the University of Notre Dame and for 25 years has created and taught leadership programs for the University and for corporations in diverse fields. She has worked with Dr. Stephen Covey, author of the 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, to produce a series of television programs on The American Family: A Challenged Tradition. In 2013, Kathleen created Leadership Through the Barn Door where companies apply principles of the 7 Habits by working with horses. Currently, she is a faculty member at Indiana University of South Bend, directing a program that helps at-risk students succeed in college. She also teaches in the University of Notre Dame’s Pathways to Success for Engineering and Science Students.
NYSCC Professional Development Symposium Oktoberfest Networking Event • October 6
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Kean University, STEM Building • Union, NJ
he NYSCC Professional Development Symposium will end the day with an Oktoberfest networking event that will include a cocktail hour with passed hors d’oevres followed by a dinner with traditional German fare. During the networking event you will have the opportunity to: • Learn from your peers about how the SCC has helped them with their careers. • Meet with higher educational institutions with programs in cosmetic chemistry. • Experience a German Oktoberfest. A few items from the Oktoberfest dinner menu: • German Pretzels • Vegetarian Goulash • Zwiebelkuchen – German Onion Tart • Braised Cabbage • Beer Bratwurst with Caramelized Sauerkraut • German Chocolate Cakes • Beer Basted Knockwurst • Apple and Almond Strudel • Wiener Schnitzel • Traditional German Beer and Wine
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Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2016 Continuing Education Program Schedule
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he SCC is dedicated to providing educational opportunities that serve the needs of professionals in our industry. Our instructors are highly qualified industry experts. You will come away from these small, interactive courses having gained the knowledge needed to advance your professional development.
August 29 Surfactants • Pat Aikens, Ph.D.
September 14 Cosmetic Raw Materials • Mark Chandler September 19 Color and Make-up • Jane Hollenberg October 5 Scale-up and Processing Cosmetic Formulations • David Yacko October 14 Recent Advances in Polymers and Macromolecules in Personal Care • Robert Lochhead, Ph.D. November 14 CGMPs for Cosmetics and OTCs • Karl Popp, R.Ph. December 8 Clinical and Instrumental Testing of Skin and Skin Care Products • Randall Wickett, Ph.D. December 14 Fragrance in Personal Care • Steve Herman To register or to learn more please visit www.scconline.org. Call for Papers
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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
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CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS
he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org.
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NYSCC Rheology Symposium — Practical Considerations and Demonstrations November 15th Cook Campus Student Center • Rutgers University New Brunswick, NJ
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n continuing with tradition, the NYSCC will be hosting its biannual Rheology Symposium this year. This is a great event that promises to provide a cornucopia of educational information bringing rheology and cosmetic science together. Attendee registration will begin this summer. At this year’s symposium we plan to give attendees the opportunity to see “rheology in action.” Several instrument suppliers will demonstrate case studies to highlight test methods and data analysis relevant to cosmetic product development. This format is designed to encourage attendees to learn from the demonstrators and from each other. In addition to the practical demonstrations, invited speakers include Dennis Laba (Review of rheological terms), Rhyta Rounds (Product packaging), and Professor Chris Macosko of the University of Minnesota.
Registration Information (prices prior to November 11): • SCC member – $35 • Non-member – $75 • Student (ID required), unemployed – $10 • Emeritus – $0 To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). Students are encouraged to attend and take advantage of the new member benefits. For a list of these benefits, see the membership tab on the NYSCC website.
Sponsorship Opportunities: • Posters – $100 • Exhibit table – $200 • Instrument demonstration — $300 (registration for this category ends September 30th) All sponsorship categories include one attendee registration. For more information on sponsorship opportunities, please contact Julia Broglie (Julia.broglie@covestro.com)
Event Chairs/Organizers • • • •
Daphne Benderly, Ph.D. – Presperse (dbenderly@presperse.com) Joe Albanese – Sytheon (joe@sytheonltd.com) Mohamed Abdulla – SEPPIC (Mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com) Julia Broglie – Covestro (julia.broglie@covestro.com)
Symposium Location Rutgers University, Cook Campus Student Center 59 Biel Road, New Brunswick, NJ Parking will be available.
Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!
FACEBOOK: NEW YORK LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC TWITTER: @NYSCC INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee
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29 IFSCC Congress 8 Keynotes 74 Podium Presenta Present ations ations Presentations 350 Poster Presenta Present ations ations Presentations
2-Day Exhibition 2-Day
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www .ifscc2016.com .ifscc2016. com www.ifscc2016.com S E P T E M B E R
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Upcoming 2016 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org September 6 Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Symposium, Chart House, Weehawken, NJ September 12 Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY October 6 Personal Professional Development Symposium, Kean University, Union, NJ Oct. 30-Nov. 2 IFSCC Congress, Orlando, FL November 15 Rheology Symposium, Cook Campus Student Center, Rutgers University December 1 NYSCC/SCC Officers Installation and End of Year Celebration
Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.
Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://www.nyscc.org/employment-listings.html.
n Senior Research Scientist/Technical Associate Colgate-Palmolive, Piscataway, NJ
n Formulation Chemist Botaneco, Bridgewater, NJ
n QC Document Control Specialist ChemAid Laboratories, Saddle Brook, NJ
n Sales Manager Troy Corporation, Florham Park, NJ
n Regulatory Chemist Sarkli-Repechage Ltd., Secaucus, NJ
n Regulatory Affairs Associate Personal Care Brands The Hain Celestial Group, Inc. Lake Success, NY
n Marketing Administrator Inolex, Inc., Philadelphia, PA
n Skin Product Development Chemist The NeoStrata Company, Inc., Princeton, NJ
n Applications Chemist, Makeup Sensient Technologies Corporation South Plainfield, NJ
n Sales Representative Botaneco, Inc., Bridgewater, NJ
n Lab Manager IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, New York, NY
n Regional Sales Manager Actives International LLC, Allendale, NJ
n Formulation Chemist – Personal and Home Care Nexeo Solutions, Houston, TX
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