Cosmetiscope May 2023

Page 1

Reimagining Renewal and Wellness –Suppliers’ Day 2023

…Stacey House, 2023 NYSCC Chair

It’s showtime! It will be an honor and privilege to be able to spend May 2nd and 3rd, “Reimagining

Renewal & Wellness,” with so many NYSCC members and industry peers at our largest edition of Suppliers' Day to date We raised the bar this year in adding new elements, expanding our industry partnerships, and engaging thought leaders to create an immersive and relevant experience that delivers unmatched insight and showcases innovation

Suppliers’ Day will encompass all elements that foster renewal and will shine a light on sustainable beauty and bridge how wellness and eco-consciousness touches all areas of industry Enjoy being immersed in relaxing scents and re-charge your minds and bodies in activations on the show floor along with key installations that will bring nature indoors!

Our two curated educational tracks from the Scientific Advisory Committee will focus on Biotechnology in Personal Care Product Development and Hair and Scalp Renewal and Wellness

Product development sessions include Microbiome: Inside/Out Beauty; Digital Age of Beauty; Fragrance: The Invisible Art; Discover Sustainability; World of Chemistry, and the PCPC and IKW program on: Reimagining, Renewal, and Wellness: Moder nizing Cosmetics Regulations.

Two lunch and lear ns will focus on Natural Ingredients, More Tech and Science Needed: A Discussion with the Experts! and Ingredient Enthusiasts to TikTok–Catch China Beauty Trends

Programs that provide product launch intelligence and future inspiration include the INDIE 360° P

n t a t i o n Theater featuring exhibitors’ innovations, and in the Main Stage Hot Topics offering lightning sessions on oral care, DE&I, color, influencers, legal watch outs, and sustainable packaging

In addition to 100+ hours of education, the expansive exhibit floor of Suppliers’ Day with 500+ exhibitors will provide you with an enhanced attendee experience including the new Brazilian and Peru Pavilions, Re-Charge Station, Main Stage, Presentation Theater, Influencers Lounge, Future Chemists Workshop, University Row, Technical Poster Presentations Showcase, and an INDIE Pavilion with 14 juried brands

More highlights include the Ribbon Cutting Ceremony, Mentorship and Members Mixer, and Wellness Walk Don’t miss the Awards Night Ceremony on May 2nd, where we will announce the finalists of CEW Beauty Creators Award for Ingredients and For mulation Being held at Second Floor NYC, this evening will be a great way to recharge, renew, and network! On May 3rd, plan to attend our featured presentation F i re s i d e C h a t w i t h M o h a m e d K a n j i , Chief Open Innovation and Operational Excellence Officer, North America, L’Oréal

There is no better event to lear n, network, and share ideas to propel innovation than at Suppliers’ Day On behalf of the NYSCC Board and Executive Committee, we thank you for your overwhelming support and look forward to welcoming you to our biggest “Week of Beauty” in New York City

May 2023 • Vol. 29 • Issue 5 N Y S C C S U P P L I E R S ’ D A Y • M A Y 2 - 3 , 2 0 2 3 J a c o b K J a v i t s C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r, N e w Yo r k , N Y
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C o m m I n f l u e n c e r s P a n e
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2023 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair

Stacey House chair@nyscc org

Chair-Elect

Amber Evans chair-elect@nyscc.org

Treasurer

Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc.org

Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org

Advisor Giorgio Dell’Acqua advisor@nyscc org

Program

Cathy Piterski program@nyscc org

At Home Live Series

Susanna Fer ndandes

Susanna Fer nandes@tri-k co

By-Laws

Amy Marshall amy marshall@altana com

Communications

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.co

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Social Media

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Welcome Letter from New York City Mayor Eric Adams

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 2

Special Cosmetiscope Promo Code

S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 3 REGISTER TODAY!
Receive free expo entrance and 50% Off NYSCC programming (this does not include SCC CEP courses or Lunch and Lear ns) using promo code: COSMETISCOPE Register at: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/

Reimagining Renewal

and

Wellness

Suppliers’ Day 2023 • May 2-3

Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY

General Infor mation

Please refer to the infor mation below to help answer some questions you may have about Suppliers’ Day 2023.

n REGISTRATION

North Concourse of the Jacob K Javits Convention Center

• Tuesday, May 2nd 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

• Wednesday, May 3rd 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

n SHOW HOURS

Exhibits are located in Halls 1A-B-C-D of the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center

• Tuesday, May 2nd 9:00 a m – 5:00 p m

• Wednesday, May 3rd 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Conference presentations take place in meeting rooms on Level 1 in the corridor along the Exhibit Halls. The show-floor Main Stage (2300 aisle) will feature specific tracks followed by Hot Topics each day. The Innovations/Presentations Theater (in the 100 aisle) includes innovations from select exhibitors and presentations by industry leaders be sure to review the highlights and make plans to attend and participate in sessions providing a global perspective!

n LOCATIONS TO NOTE

VIP – Exhibitor Lounge Room 1A22 – off the show floor

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Association/ Room1B03

Sales and Management Office

Press Office/Speakers Lounge Room 1B02

Coat/Bag Check Level 2 near FEDEX; North Concourse near registration

Exhibitor Meeting Rooms, located in the corridor/adjacent to the Exhibit Halls:

Azelis, DeWolf, Glenn Room 1B04

BASF Corporation Room 1A05/1C01

Coast Southwest, Inc. Room 1C05

Croda Room 1D04

DSM Personal Care Room 1D06

EMD Electronics Room 1B01

Lubrizol Life Science – Beauty Room 1D05

Presperse Room 1B05

Univar Solutions Room 1A01/1A04

WIFI is sponsored by Clariant and available for the convenience of all exhibitors and attendees.

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 4 S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I n f o

SCHEDULE–AT–A–GLANCE

MONDAY, MAY 1st

9:00 a m – 5:00 p m

SCC CEP Course: For mulating Natural Oils Room 1C02 and Butters for the Cosmetics Industry: Technical Background and Best Practices 9:00 a m –

SCC CEP Course: Introduction to Sensory Room 1C03 Characterization of Cosmetic Emulsions

TUESDAY, MAY 2nd

NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee Presentation: Hair and Scalp Renewal

Poster Presentations

and Lear n: Natural Ingredients

and Lear n: From Ingredient Enthusiasts Room 1C04

Tik Tok: Catch China Beauty Trends

Topics from the Main Stage

IBA Presents Influencer Chemist Panel:

Awards Night: CEW Beauty Creator Awards: Ingredients and For mulation – Second Floor NYC

Announced

S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5
5:00 p m
9:00
5:00 p.m. Exhibit
Halls 1A,
C,
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1:00 p m – 3:00 p m 10:00 a.m.
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Show Floor Innovations/ Presentation Theater 10:00 a m – 1:15 p m Digital Age of
Room 1C02 10:00 a m – 1:55 p m Microbiome: Inside/Out
Room 1C03 10:00 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. World
Show Floor Main Stage 10:30 a m – 12:00 p m and Technical
Back of Hall D 2:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. 12:00 p m – 2:30 p m Lunch
Room
12:00 p m
3:05 p m Lunch
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1:25 p m – 4:45 p m Hot
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Main
1:30 p m – 2:30 p m
Show
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1:00 a.m. NYSCC
Finalists
5 S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y S c h e d u l e
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Opens
B,
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Future Chemists Workshop
1A21
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WEDNESDAY, MAY 3rd

SCHEDULE–AT–A–GLANCE

9:00 a m – 4:00 p m Exhibit Opens Halls 1A, B, C, D 9:00 a m – 9:45 a m Fireside Chat: Mohamed Kanji, Chief Open Innovation/Operational Show Floor Main Stage Excellence Officer, L’Oréal 9:55 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. PCPC and IKW Present: Reimagining Renewal and Wellness: Room 1C04 Moder nizing Cosmetics Regulations 10:00 a m – 12:45 p m Fragrance: The Invisible Art Room 1A02 10:00 a m – 12:55 p m INDIE 360° Room 1C03 10:00 a.m. – 1:10 p.m. Innovations from the Exhibit Floor Show Floor Innovations/ Presentation Theater 10:00 a m – 1:30 p m Discover Sustainability Show Floor Main Stage 10:00 a.m. – 1:15 p.m. NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee Presentation: Biotechnology in Beauty Room 1C02 and Personal Care 10:30 a m – 12:00 p m and Technical Poster Presentations Back of Hall D 2:00 p m – 3:30 p m 11:00 a m – 2:00 p m Mentorship and Career Development Day Room 1A21 2:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. MoCRA ‘Responsible Person’ Definition, Show Floor Innovations/ Role, and Responsibilities Presentation Theater 2:00 p m – 3:25 p m Hot Topics from the Main Stage Show Floor Main Stage 2:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. NYSCC Membership Mixer…Each Member Room 1A21 Brings a Guest for a Chance to Win! 3:00 p m People’s Choice Award of INDIE Pavilion, INDIE Pavilion, Champagne Toast Booth 1917 N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 6 S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y S c h e d u l e ce for: sour Your olutions.com 354.1044 ralstech.com at: ctor.com n dients Clay-based rheology ingre • ntsdie tinoid ingre id Re Liqu • ms ry syste delive Natural aselestained-re tinoids in su Re •

Special Events from the NYSCC and Suppliers’ Day NOT TO BE MISSED!

Suppliers’ Day Ribbon Cutting Ceremony – Concourse

Begin your Suppliers’ Day experience at the ceremonial Ribbon Cutting taking place on Tuesday, May 2nd at 9:00 a m Join NYSCC Board Members, as well as industry executives who have partnered with NYSCC to bring unique programming and activations to life! Join us as we kick-off Suppliers’ Day 2023 where you will be “Reimagining Renewal and Wellness!”

INDIE 360º Pavilion – Make Your Vote Count! Booth No. 1917

Featured here will be brands that rely on innovative ingredients that are in demand by consumers! These brands will be featured along with Supplier Sponsors that support and drive INDIE expansion

Be sure to visit and take part in the People’s Choice Award of INDIE 360° participants Attendees at Suppliers’ Day will have the opportunity to vote for the brand that they feel is a game changer for 2023! Download the mobile app and cast your vote! The INDIE 360° Pavilion is in Booth No. 1917 in Hall D/ Special Events Hall of the expo

Join us on Wednesday, May 3rd at 3:00 p.m. for a champagne toast as we celebrate your winner of the People’s Choice Award of INDIE 360°

Co-Sponsored by

Naturally committed

S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 7 S p e c i a l E v e n t s
BEAUTY www.acme-hardesty.com ingredients. Superior solutions. om p c desty ty e-haracm www ww g
program
CSR
to a sustainable world world a to

Aisle 500 of Suppliers’ Day

Looking for advanced programs…or perhaps a degree to enhance and further your career? Then you need to visit University Row, participants include:

Technical Poster Sessions @ Suppliers’ Day

Daily: 10:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. • 2:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m.

Technical presentations will take place in our Poster Presentation Pavilion in Hall D/Special Events Hall of the expo Scheduled session times will ensure optimal engagement

Topics will include: sunscreen, clean and green, sustainability, and so much more!

Re-Charge Lounge…Charging For Your Devices Re-charge/Renewal for You!

Aisle 1900

Tuesday, May 2nd: 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

• Wednesday, May 3rd: 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Renewal and Wellness at Suppliers’ Day is a complete immersion! Visit the Re-Charge Lounge and literally have your senses immersed in sights, scents, sounds, and tastes that speak renewal!

After recharging, be sure to visit the Wellness Wall!

NYSCC Wellness Walk

…our Traditional Scavenger Hunt with a Twist!

This year we focus on “Reimaging Renewal and Wellness,” so we are asking you to think of the positive outcome of your Suppliers’ Day jour ney! As you navigate the almost 200,000 square feet of ingredients, for mulations, and innovations, be sure you are part of the Wellness Walk

Download the Suppliers’ Day Mobile App while on-site, then visit all exhibitors and specialty areas that are part of the walk As you walk, you will see interactive stations that will allow you to tell us about your experience What innovation resonated? How many steps did you take? What does renewal mean to you?

Then post a photograph, your answers, and your achievements on our Wellness Wall Look on site for the stations All you need to do is complete the Wellness Walk, interact with exhibitors and specialty areas, and post your results!

You will be automatically entered to win a Peloton bike, so you can continue to Reimagine Renewal and Wellness!

A winner will be announced at the close of the show!

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 8 S p e c i a l E v e n t s
Inspired by nature –Realized by science mibellebiochemistry.com

Future Chemists Workshop

Tuesday, May 2nd • Room 1A21 (adjacent to the expo floor)

Session 1: 9:45 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. • Session 2: 1:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

Moderator: John Carola, Chair – Future Chemists Workshop

Presenter: Cynthia Johnson, Founder and CEO, Cindy J Cosmetic Labs, LLC

There will be two sessions of this NYSCC Suppliers’ Day staple that solidly supports the NYSCC’s mission of education in cosmetic chemistry

Sponored by

An expanded group of colleges and universities will participate this year:

Cooper Union

FDU

FIT

LIU

Manhattan College

MSU

Muhlenberg University

NYU

Paul Mitchell Aesthetics

Ramapo College

Rutgers University

Saint Johns University

Saint Elizabeth University

Saint Joseph’s University

Temple University

University of Cincinnati

University of Louisville

University of North Texas

University of the People

University of Rhode Island

University of Toledo

University of Tulsa

We would like to thank our ingredients/supplier sponsors:

S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 9 S p e c i a l E v e n t s
Active Concepts Barentz Evonik Grant Industries Katonah Chemical Seppic Tri-K
N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 10 S p e c i a l E v e n t s Wednesday, May 3 • 9:00 AM – 9:45 AM MAIN STAGE (Hall D – 2100 Aisle) Join us for a conversation on L’Oréal’s vision which focuses on an open innovation/collaboration strategy enabling them to achieve their green sciences/sustainability goals

NYSCC Mentorship Mixer and Career Development Day

Wednesday, May 3rd: 11:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. • Room 1A21 (adjacent to the expo floor)

Co-Moderators: Ava Atri and Mary Fendelander, Co-Chairs – NYSCC Mentorship

The NYSCC Mentorship Program is a must for the young, the veterans, and those looking to expand their horizons Join us at this program to meet and talk with representatives from colleges and universities who specialize in cosmetic science education as well as connect with employers in the cosmetics and personal care industry who offer inter nships and/or are looking to hire entry level positions. Kicking off the program will be a presentation from a Sci-Comm Influencer the newest career path for those involved in beauty and personal care product development!

11:00 a m – 11:15 a m

Welcome and Infor mation on NYSCC’s Mentorship Program and Database

Ava Atri and Mary Fendelander, Co-Chairs – NYSCC Mentorship Program

11:15 a.m. – 11:40 a.m. Hear from a Sci-Comm Influencer!

Jen Novakovich, Founder, The Eco Well

11:45 a.m. – 12:10 p.m.

COPTIS Demo Presentation

Marie Thadal, VP of Sales/Operations, Americas, COPTIS

12:15 p.m. – 12:45 p.m.

12:45 p m – 1:15 p m

Networking and Lunch, Round 1

Networking and Dessert, Round 2

1:15 p.m. – 1:45 p.m. Your Career…Key Elements Needed on Your Resume!

Maite Maldonado, CEO, Madison Leigh Search Fir m Recruiting Agency

1:45 p.m. – 2:00 p.m. Wrap, Next Steps…Stay for the Membership Mixer!

Ava Atri and Mary Fendelander, Co-Chairs – NYSCC Mentorship Program

2:00 p m – 3:00 p m Program concludes with a “Membership Mixer” Moderator: Stacey House, – Chair, NYSCC

Network some more and lear n why SCC Membership is vital to your career! We are calling all SCC members to join us. Bring a guest, encourage them to join, and you will be entered for a chance to win a trip to Califor nia Suppliers’ Day in October! Be sure to join us in Meeting Room 1A21 adjacent to the expo floor!

2023 Media and Education Partners include…

S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 11 S p e c i a l E v e n t s

NYSCC Industry’s Awards Night

This must-attend staple celebration takes place on Opening Night, Tuesday, May 2nd at Second Floor NYC .

The eight finalists of the CEW Beauty Creators Supplier’s Award – Ingredients & For mulations Category will be announced here! Come celebrate the winning suppliers/exhibitors on the expo floor the next day! Limited tickets will be available on site. Visit www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day to lear n more and secure your tickets!

JUDGES

Judges (left to right):

• Toussaint Jordan, Brand Manager, Product Marketing, Edgewell

• Eileen Kim, Head of U S Innovation and Research Prospective Team, Chanel

• Ron Robinson, Founder and CEO, BeautyStat com

• Mike Wong, Chief Science Officer, Orveon (bareMinerals, Buxom, Laura Mercier)

• Tao Zheng, Director – Advanced Technologies/Material Science, The Estée Lauder Companies

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 12 S p e c i a l E v e n t s PROTAMEEN Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM Supplier of specialty materials!

TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

Hair and Scalp Renewal and Wellness

10:00 a.m. – 1:10 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1A02

Consumers now recognize that healthy, plentiful, and beautiful hair is predicated on a healthy scalp, as well as a healthy lifestyle and more! Nutraceuticals, pre/probiotics, and multifunctional ingredients are leading the charge in hair health. Hear from brands and innovators in this half-day program.

Lunch voucher included with registration.

10:00 a m – 10:05 a m

Introduction

Amber Evans, Chair Elect – NYSCC

10:05 a m – 10:30 a m

Applying Innovations in Skin Science for Healthy Scalp and Hair

Sophia Bull, Regional Marketing Manager, IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

10:35 a m – 11:00 a m

Supplements in Hair Care

Nicole Townsend, Formulation and Product Innovation, Nutrafol

11:05 a m

11:30 a m

Skinification Making Scalp Care a Hot Topic

Sarah Kovach, Market Growth Manager, Stepan Company

11:30 a m – 11:45 a m

11:45 a.m. – 12:10 p.m.

Break

High-Lauric Coconut MCT: A Multifunctional Ingredient for Hair Care and Color Cosmetics

Alyr Whylo Panlaqui, R&D Specialist, Chemrez Technologies, Inc.

12:15 p m – 12:40 p m

Recycled Silicones for Haircare – From Waste to Value for Hair Care

Kyle Ryder, Technical Service Application Chemist, Consumer Care, CHT

12:45 p m – 1:10 p m

Wrap

Amber Evans, Chair Elect – NYSCC

Make Plans to Join The Wellness Walk/ Scavenger Hunt and Win!

Be sure to download the Suppliers’ Day Mobile App while on-site, then visit all exhibitors and special areas on the show floor that are part of the Walk and be entered to win a Peloton bike so you can continue to Reimagine Renewal and Wellness!

S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 13 P r o g r a m

TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

Digital Age of Beauty

10:00 a.m. – 1:15 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C02

This Suppliers’ Day staple will focus on key strategies and innovations that influence product development and speed to market as well as digital tools that drive, measure, and analyze consumer engagement and the demands they set forth, including AI, blockchain, and more!

Lunch voucher included with registration.

Session sponsored by

10:00 a m – 10:05 a m

Introduction

James Weatherall, Global Vice President, SpecialChem

10:05 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Digitization of the Cosmetic Industry: The Future of Product Development and For mulation

Alexander Detre, Head of Operations, EcoMundo

Michael McGinty, Software Manager, EcoMundo

10:35 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. How Digital Technology and AI Can Promote and Support R&D Innovation Perfor mance

Marie Thadal, VP of Sales and Operations, Americas, COPTIS

Jonathan Coeur, Managing Director, COPTIS Asia

11:05 a.m. – 11:30 a.m. Uncovering the Hottest Beauty Ingredients: A Visual and Social Analytics Jour ney

Andi Govinda, CEO and Co-Founder, RIVITER

11:30 a m – 11:45 a m Break

11:45 a m – 12:10 p m

What’s Next in Digital For mulating: Using Artificial Intelligence to Speed Product Development

Sasha Novakovich, Co-Founder and CEO, Alchemy Cloud, Inc.

12:15 p.m. – 12:40 p.m. What’s Next in Digital For mulating: Using Artificial Intelligence to Speed Product Development

Gladys Atanga, Commercial Manager, The Savannah Fruits Company

Sofia Durrani, Head of Sustainability and Corporate Social Responsibility, The Savannah Fruits Company

12:45 p m – 1:15 p m

How to Adapt to the Digitalization Boom in the Cosmetics Industry

James Weatherall, Global Vice President, SpecialChem

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 14 P r o g r a m

TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

Microbiome: Inside/Out Beauty

10:00 a.m. – 12:55 p.m. • Meeting Room – Level 1 – 1C03

As microbiome innovations and technologies continue to dominate the landscape, this program offers different expert perspectives and insight on microbiome health from head to toe including oral and vaginal innovations. Renewal and wellness is not complete without exploring the latest trends in microbiome research This is a must-attend for all involved in personal care product development

Lunch voucher included with registration

10:00 a.m. – 10:05 a.m. Introduction

Sarah de Szalay, Senior Applicaitons Manager, Gattefosse

10:05 a m – 10:30 a m

Advanced Microbiome Skin Models Can Be Used to Predict

Global Output of Cosmetics and Personal Care Ingredients

Nico Forraz, CEO, CTIBIOTECH

10:35 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.

How to Care for the Female Microbiome

Hedy Scheck, CMO, Liechtenstein

11:05 a m – 11:30 a m

How to Leverage Microbiome Data for Product Development and Personalization

Elsa Jungman, CEO, HelloBiome 11:30 a.m. – 11:45 a.m. Break

11:45 a m – 12:10 p m

Translational Microbiota and Skin Health: Emerging Knowledge from Healing to Aging

Adreshir Bayat, VP Advanced Technology, Este ˇ e Lauder Companies 12:15 p m – 12:40 p m

The Gateway to Our Body: The Oral Microbiome

Patrick Gonry, Business Development Manager, Gobiotics BV

p m – 12:55 p m Wrap

Sarah de Szalay, Senior Applicaitons Manager, Gattefosse ˇ

S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 15 P r o g r a m
12:40

TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

World Of Chemistry

10:00 a.m. – 1:10 p.m. • Show Floor Main Stage – Hall D – 2100 Aisle

The World of Chemistry is a staple in NYSCC education! It delivers a global perspective and discussion on raw materials, solutions, for mulation, and regulations Presenters will include experts from Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, and South America where emerging trends continue to define the global beauty landscape All sessions are complimentary and included in your EXPO ONLY admission!

Session sponsored by

10:00 a.m. – 10:05 a.m. Introduction

Tim Probert, Editor, Personal Care Global Magazine

10:05 a.m. – 10:25 a.m. Active Ingredients Demand in Asia: What are the Drivers, How Different is it From the West, and What Are the Specificities Between Key Countries

10:30 a m – 10:50 a m

Nikola Matic, Vice President, Chemicals, Klinegroup

Developing Personal Care Products That Are Compliant in Canada

Mathilda Ruiz, Regulatory Affairs Specialist, EcoMundo

Morgane Mondon, Regulatory Affairs Specialist, EcoMundo

10:55 a.m. – 11:15 a.m. From Coily to Straight: Trends that Rule Brazilian’s Hair Care Market

Isadora Teixeira, Marketing Analyst, BASF

11:20 a m – 11:40 a m A Global Tour of Innovative Cosmetic Products

Anna Balaguer, Global Beauty Trends Manager, Provital

11:45 a m – 12:05 p m

Let Your Clean Beauty Jour ney Begin in Australia: A Brief Introduction to A-Beauty

Bruno Malepa, Commercial Director, UA Manufacturing Pty Ltd

Zhi Pan, Global Chief Strategist, Guangzhou Uniasia Cosmetic Technology Co, Ltd

12:10 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. From Niche to Mainstream – The Rising Popularity of Peptide Chemistry in China’s Anti-Aging Segment

Gengli Yu, Founder and CEO, Active Peptide Company

Janet Du, Co-Founder and CEO, Active Peptide Company

12:35 p.m. – 12:55 p.m.

Africa/Guyana – Global Shea Butter Alliance

Wunmi Osholake, Deputy Managing Director, Global Shea Butter Alliance

1:00 p m – 1:10 p m Wrap

Tim Probert, Editor, Personal Care Global Magazine

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 16 P r o g r a m

TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

Natural Ingredients

12:00 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. • Meeting Room – 1A03

What defines natural? As the debate continues, join us at this “Lunch and Lear n ” for insight into how the global community seeks to provide you with the answers, nuances, and understanding Hear from innovators, brands, and renowned consultants while lunch is served during this short, pithy presentation that you can’t afford to miss!

Session sponsored by

12:00 p m – 12:10 p m

Welcome and Introductions

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chief Science Officer, Nutrafol

Gayle De Maria, Editorial Director, TKS Publisher, HPC Today

12:10 p.m. – 2:20 p.m.

Roundtable Discussion

Alison Cutlan, Founder, CUTLAN Lab

Arnoldo Fonesca, Global Head Bioactive Segment Care Solutions

Business Line, Evonik

Donna Petretti, Head of NA Marketing Consumer Care, Croda

Kseniya Popova, Director of R&D/Innovation + NDP, ILABS

Laure-Anne Gillon, Director NA Cosmetic Active Ingredients, Laboratoires Expanscience

Mark Smith, Director General, NATRUE, The International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association 2:20 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Chief Science Officer, Nutrafol

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Wrap

CSR program

Naturally committed to a sustainable world a

TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

Catch China’s Beauty Trends: From Tik Tok to Ingredient Innovation

12:00 p.m. – 3:05 p.m. • Meeting Room – 1C04

As the global community rebounds from COVID, lear n what the future looks like for the Chinese marketplace

Session sponsored by 12:00 p m – 12:05 p m

Welcome and Introductions

Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC

Guangru Mao, Principal Scientist, Colgate-Palmolive Zhigana Hao, President, CACPA

12:05 p.m. – 12:30 p.m. From China to North America: A Leader’s Perspective on Cosmetics Technology Development Trends

Sanford Browne, President R&I North America, L’Oréal

12:30 p m – 1:00 p m

CSAR vs MoCRA: A Comparative Overview of Cosmetic Regulations in China and the U.S.

Victoria Tu, SVP Regulatory Affairs, Coty 1:00 p m – 1:30 p m

Interpreting China’s Beauty Trends via Big Data

Hong Xu, General Partner Director of Innovation, Beauty Evolution

1:30 p m – 2:00 p m

Brewing Up Sustainable Solutions: Advancements in Synthetic Biology in China

Lois Lu, General Manager America, Bloomage 2:00 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Development of Cosmetic Peptides in China

Wenfeng Ding, Founder and CEO, W inkey Technology 2:30 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

The Significant Rise of Recombinant Collagen Concepts in China’s Consumer Product Markets: History, Regulations, and Trends

David Zhou, General Manager, Raw Material Business, Jinbo Bio-Pharmaceutical

3:00 p m – 3:05 p m

Wrap

Guangru Mao, Principal Scientist, Colgate-Palmolive

Zhigana Hao, President, CACPA

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TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

Hot Topics from the Main Stage

1:25 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. • Show Floor Main Stage – Hall D – 2100 Aisle

Get updated on what’s happening in color, influencers, and sustainable packaging check the schedule so you are sure to get what you need!

All sessions are complimentary and included in your EXPO ONLY admission!

1:25 p m – 1:30 p m

1:30 p m – 2:30 p m

Introduction

Stacey House, Chair, NYSCC

Influencer Chemist Panel: Truth In Beauty –Hosted by IBA (Independent Beauty Association)

Moderator:

Jen Novakovich, Founder, EcoWell

Influencers:

Gloria Lu, Co-Founder, Chemist Confessions

Javon Ford, Skin Care Chemist and Content Creator

Lisa Guerrera, Co-Founder and CEO, Experiment

Victoria Fu, Co-Founder, Chemist Confessions

2:35 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.

Cosmetics Claims Compliance Controls: Best Practices for Today’s Online World

Ivan Wasserman, Managing Partner, Amin Talati Wasserman

3:05 p m – 3:30 p m

What’s Next In Ingestible Beauty and Wellness Supplements: The Consumer POV

Ronie Schmelz, Partner, K&L Gates

3:35 p m – 4:00 p m

Inclusive Beauty: Providing Solutions for Wellness for Diverse Consumers

Steven Manson, Sr. Account Manager, DSM Personal Care

4:05 p.m. – 4:30 p.m.

Ensure A Sustainable Future in Beauty and Personal Care

Sarah Jindal, Senior Director, BPCH, Americas, Mintel

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TUESDAY, MAY 2, 2023

Innovations Theater

10:00 a.m. – 3:45 p.m. • Show Floor Innovations Theater – Hall A – 100 Aisle

Lear n and then experience the innovations and solutions provided by Suppliers’ Day exhibitors All sessions are complimentary and included in your EXPO ONLY admission!

Session sponsored by 10:00 a m – 10:20 a m Welcome Yarden Horwitz, Co-Founder, SPATE

10:25 a m – 10:55 a m

Recharge and Renew in Wellness

Jennifer Walsh, Founder and Creative Director, AIKR Lab & Institute

11:00 a.m. – 11:20 a.m.

Meeting Consumer Trends with a Multifunctional Bioactive

René Schmitz, Technical Sales and Marketing Manager, bitop

11:25 a m – 11:45 a m

FeruliShield™ Feryloyl Glycerides: New Bio-Based Antioxidant/UV-Filters for Personal Care Applications

David Demirjian, President, Midwest Bioprocessing Center, LLC 11:50 a m – 12:10 p m

Mineed Technology Co., Ltd. Presents Chokachai Puangsiri, Business Director, Mineed Technology Co , Ltd

12:15 p.m. – 12:35 p.m.

Sustainability and Product Development: What Increasing Complexity Means for R&D and Procurement

Yashi Shrestha, Head of Science and Research, Novi Connect 12:40 p.m. – 1:00 p.m.

Neurocosmetics: To Look Good and Feel Good!

Fred Zuelli, Founder, Business Development Director, Mibelle AG Biochemistry 1:00 p m

Yarden Horwitz, Co-Founder, SPATE

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– 1:10 p m Wrap

WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

Reimagining Renewal and Wellness: Moder nizing Cosmetics Regulations

9:55 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. • Meeting Room 1C04

2023 is a time for reimagining and renewal for the global cosmetics and personal care industry, particularly in how the industry is regulated The long-awaited Moder nization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022, signed into law in December by President Biden, adds significant new authorities to the U S Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) regulatory oversight of cosmetics and personal care products, creating a comprehensive and unifor m framework for cosmetics regulation Meanwhile, the proposed European Green Deal, which aims to make the EU climate neutral and create a circular EU economy by 2050, promises extraordinary changes in how all consumer products, including cosmetics, are regulated. This session will examine cosmetics regulations in the U.S. and EU, highlighting the fundamental regulatory, safety, and product quality requirements while providing an in-depth understanding of how these requirements advance product safety and innovation for the science-driven beauty and personal care sector.

Lunch voucher included with registration.

9:55 a m – 10:00 a m

Introduction

Jay Ansell, VP Cosmetic Programs, Personal Care Products Council

10:00 a m

10:45 a m

Moder nization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022

Karin Ross, Personal Care Products Council

10:45 a m

11:15 a m

Cosmetic Safety

Kim Norman, Senior Director Safety and Regulatory Toxicology, Personal Care Products Council 11:15 a.m. – 11:45 a.m.

GMPs

Cathleen Owen, Director Pharmaceutical and Personal Care Services, Q Labs 11:45 a m – 12:15 p m

Labels and Labeling

Joanne Nikitakis, Senior Director Technical Affairs, Personal Care Products Council 12:15 p m – 1:00 p m

Lunch 1:00 p m – 1:30 p m

The Future Direction of European Cosmetics

Brigit Huber, Deputy Director General, The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery, and Detergent Association 1:30 p m –

Discussion

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2:00 p m Panel
Session co-sponsored by
Media Sponsor

WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

Fragrance: The Invisible Art

10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. • Meeting Room 1A02

This program will bring together experts, educators, and perspectives that include the supplier, for mulator, regulator, marketer, and product development: the essential players in creating the “invisible art ”

Lunch voucher included with registration.

Session sponsored by

10:00 a m – 10:05 a m

Introduction

George Ledes, Founding Editor, This Week with George Ledes

10:05 a m – 10:30 a m

Understanding Fragrance Volatility

Robert Fuller, Adjunct Professor, Rutgers University MBS Program

10:35 a m – 11:00 a m

Developing Eco Responsible Fragrances to Meet Today’s Consumer Demands for More Sustainable Products

Jeff Sindewald, Sales and Business Development Manager, Fragrances, Croda Inc

11:05 a.m. – 11:30 a.m. Is Fragrance a Dirty Word? How Do We Better Educate Consumers That Not All Fragrances Are Created Equally

Iva Teixeria, CEO and Co Founder, The Good Face Project

11:30 a m – 11:45 a m Break

11:45 a m – 12:10 p m

Salutary Beauty

Eleonora Mazzilli, Marketing and Sales Manager, BeautyStreams

12:15 p m – 12:40 p m

From A Perfumer’s Perspective

Mark Knitowski, Former VP Product Innovation, Victoria’s Secret Beauty

12:45 p m – 1:10 p m

The Power of Perfume – What COVID Anosmia Has Taught Us About Olfactory Awareness!

Susan Phillips, CEO, Scenterprises, Inc

1:10 p m – 1:20 p m

Wrap

George Ledes, Founding Editor, This Week with George Ledes

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y the only Tr able ainable Rene Hand w harv Sus , est t ed, , Mineral-rich, Ultra Fine Glacial Marine Clay Powderr.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

Biotechnology in Beauty and Personal Care

10:00 a.m. – 1:15 p.m. • Meeting Room 1C02

This program will introduce exciting, new technologies using biotechnology in producing active cosmetic ingredients sustainably Hear from innovators and brands!

Lunch voucher included with registration.

10:00 a m – 10:05 a m

Introduction

Co-Moderators: Sue Feng and Yun Shao

NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee

10:05 a.m. – 10:35 a.m.

Sclareance Biofunctional

Leonora Gregory, Business Development Manager, Ashland

10:35 a m – 11:00 a m

Biotech Beauty: Utilizing Nature and Science to Deliver Effective Results

Brian Grady, Sr Marketing Specialist, DSM Personal Care

11:05 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.

Creating Waterless For mats Using Ingredients Produced via Biotechnology

Laura Frazier, Chief Scientist, Boshi Beauty Inc

a m

12:10 p m

Detachable Microneedles: Two-Minute Detachment of Needles

Into Skin, Stabilization of Bioactives, and Clinical Test Results

Susan Wanichwecharungruang, CEO, Mineed Technology Co, Ltd.

12:15 p.m. – 12:40 p.m.

Menopause, Iron, and Aging Skin: Is There a Better Solution than Chelation?

Xi Huang, Founder and President, i-ON Skincare

12:45 p m – 1:10 p m

Discover a Pioneering 100% Natural Origin and Sustainable Retinol, Crafted Through Biotech

Mathias Fleury, Head of Category Actives, Givuadan Active Beauty 1:10 p.m. – 1:15 p.m. Wrap

Co-Moderators: Sue Feng and Yun Shao

NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee

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m
11:45
11:30 a
a m Break 11:45

WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

INDIE 360°

10:00 a.m. – 12:55 p.m. • Meeting Room 1C03

Focusing on every angle of launching and sustaining your brand Presentations include expertise on investment capital, navigating ingredient sourcing, accelerator programs, troubleshooting supply chain challenges, and legal issues in communication. The highlight will be a panel of Indie brand founders telling their stories: challenges, opportunities, successes, and more!

Lunch voucher included with registration 10:00

Luciana Coutinho, Principle, Luluble 10:05 a

Three Trends Indie Brands Should Know for the Gen Z Consumer

Christina Philips, Technical Marketing Leader, Gattefossé

10:35 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.

Financing your Start-Up: It’s Just the Beginning

Marc Liebowitz, Managing Director, Supporting Strategies

Sarah Liebowitz, CEO, Sustainable Botanicals International

11:05 a m – 11:30 a m

Three Ways to Start Your Own Beauty Brand

Ginger King, President, Grace Kingdom Beauty

Building the Future of Beauty

Deanna Utroske, Founder, Beauty Insights

INDIE Pavilion Participants

C16, Biosciences, Nicole Ravachi Inc., Ina Labs, Madame Lemy

12:15 p.m. – 12:40 p.m.

Getting Prepared for MoCRA

(The Moder nization of Cosmetics Act)

Jennifer Biagioni, Director, Green Valley Laboratory 12:45 p m – 12:55 p m

Wrap

Luciana Coutinho,Principle, Luluble

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m –
m
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11:30
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11:45 a m – 12:10 p m

WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

Discover Sustainability

10:00 a.m. – 1:20 p.m. • Show Floor Main Stage Presentation Theater

As sustainability continues to dominate the beauty and personal care product development landscape, this program continues to dominate Suppliers’ Day! Containing quick but powerful presentations, focusing on green beauty, circularity, upcycling, and sourcing sustainable packaging, this is a must-attend staple at Suppliers’ Day

All sessions are complimentary and included in your EXPO ONLY admission!

Session sponsored by

10:00 a.m. – 10:05 a.m. Introduction

Tom Branna, VP/Editorial Director, HAPPI

10:05 a m – 10:35 a m

L’Oréal for the Future (L4TF): Green Sciences Transfor mation for Sustainable Beauty

Aditi Gogineni, AVP R&I Sustainability, L’Oréal USA

Miao Wang, AVP Advanced Research International Innovative Ingredients, L’Oréal USA

10:35 a.m. – 10:45 a.m. Q&A with L’Oréal Presenters

10:50 a.m. – 11:10 a.m. The Evolution of Clean Beauty

Donna Petretti, Head of NA Marketing Consumer Care, Croda

11:15 a m – 11:35 a m 12 Principles of Green For mulation

Kseniya Popova, Director of R&D/Innovation + NDP, ILABS

11:40 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Circular Beauty: Embedding Circularity at Every Level

Sage Frigge Hartlaub, Manager, Sustainability – Care Chemicals, North America, BASF

12:05 p.m. – 12:25 p.m. For mulating from Plant-Based Sources 101

Andrew Goldberg, Technical Manager, Alzo International

12:30 p m – 12:50 p m How To Choose the Right Certification

Gay Timmons, President, Oh, Oh, Organic Inc

12:55 p.m. – 1:15 p.m. Sustainability in Beauty Packaging

Dror Iakob, VP of Business Development and Operations, Expack USA

1:15 p m – 1:20 p m Wrap

Tom Branna, VP/Editorial Director, HAPPI

ce for: sour Your olutions.com 354.1044 ralstech.com at: ctor.com n

dients Clay-based rheology ingre • ntsdie tinoid ingre id Re Liqu • ms ry syste delive Natural aselestained-re tinoids in su Re •

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WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

Innovations Theater

10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. • Show Floor Innovations Theater – Hall A – 100 Aisle

Lear n and then experience the innovations and solutions provided by SUPPLIERS’ DAY Exhibitors All sessions are complimentary and included in your EXPO ONLY admission!

Session sponsored by

Welcome Yarden Horwitz, Co-Founder, SPATE

Winning in the Emulsifier-Free Segment with an Upcycled Solution

Käte Davis, Senior Director, Global Strategic Segments Consumer Care, CP Kelco 10:50

Microbiome Modulation for Better Skin Health

Paul Lawrence, Executive Director of Research and Discovery, Biocogent, LLC 11:15

Natural Anti-aging Solutions Based on Endogenous Substances in the Human Body

Jessica Qu, Marketing Director, Personal Care Ingredients and Solution, Bloomage Biotechnology Corp , Ltd

Advanced Treatment Against Hidden Damage: Eliminate Hair Hidden Damage, Improving Health from Root to Tip from the First Use

Thiago Duccini, Marketing and Hair Care Products Manager, Chemyunion Inc

(continued on page 27)

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10:00 a m
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11:40 a m – 12:00 p m
BEAUTY www.acme-hardesty.com ingredients. Superior solutions. om p c desty ty e-haracm www ww g

12:05 p m – 12:25 p m

WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

12:30 p m – 12:50 p m

Innovations Theater

(continued from page 26)

Preservatives Speed-Dating: Amino Acid-Based Multifunctionals Are the Better Half of Your Product Protection System!

Sabrina Behnke, Global Senior Business Manager, TRI-K Industries

TRI-MEA™: Natural, Upcycled, 18-MEA Mimicking Active for Complete Hair Care

Shanique Young, Technical Sales and Marketing Manager, McKinley Resources Inc.

Inspired

mibellebiochemistry.com

12:55 p m – 1:10 p m

Wrap

Yarden Horwitz, Co-Founder, SPATE

Special Presentation

2:00 p m – 3:00 p m

Regulatory Update:

MoCRA “Responsible Person”

Definition, Role, and Responsibilities Presented by IBA

Donald Frey, President/CEO, Independent Beauty Association

Katherine Montgomery, VP Regulatory Affairs, Forma Brands

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Tisha Schestopol, Counsel, Dentons LLP by nature –Realized by science

WEDNESDAY, MAY 3, 2023

Hot Topics from the Main Stage

2:00 p.m. – 3:25 p.m. • Show Floor Main Stage – Hall D – 2100 Aisle Get updated on what’s happening in contract manufacturing, color, influencers, and sustainable packaging Check the schedule so you are sure to get what you need!

2:00 p.m. – 2:05 p.m. Welcome Moderator: Sue Feng, NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee

2:05 p.m. – 2:25 p.m.

From the Egyptians to Rihanna: Where Color Cosmetics Have Been and Where They’re Going Alison Griffin, Head of Sales Americas, Cosmetics, Sudarshan

2:30 p.m. – 2:55 p.m.

Revisit Stephen Curve During Oral Care Product Development Zhigang Hao, Manager of Technology, Colgate Palmolive Company

3:00 p.m. – 3:25 p.m.

P4 Inclusive Cosmetics Deciphering Skin Longevity Biomarkets Through the Innovative P4I Cosmetics Approach Martin Baraibar, CEO, OxiProteomics

Have You Voted?

You must visit the INDIE 360° Pavilion (Booth No. 1917) featuring 16+ emerging brands that are foreshadowing the future! Download the Suppliers’ Day Mobile App, visit the pavilion, and cast your vote. Then join us on Wednesday, May 3rd as we toast the INDIE 360° participants, who represent The People’s Choice!

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S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 29 I N D I E 3 6 0 °

Join

INDIE 360º Pavilion

Alexandra Organic

Alexandra Organic is a company founded in Greece and inspired by Greek mythology with its heritage of healing plants The full range of hair care and makeup products were a hit on social media where the founder shared the behind the scenes story of creating the products out of frustration and connected with Millennial and Gen Z consumers who love the natural ingredients and effective results www alexandraorganic com

Aneley Cosmetics

Aneley Cosmetics is an all-natural and organic makeup brand made in the USA Their products contain natural, breathable ingredients that are anti-inflammatory. They are specially for mulated to be used after facials and waxing and are perfect for any skin type Products include foundation, eyeshadow, lipstick, and a Shabbat approved powder line PETA certified –cruelty free www.aneleycosmetics.com

Elims

Elims is building the future of sustainable oral care Crafted by dentists and biomedical engineers, our mission is to advance human health while reducing waste for the planet. With Elims, you’ll only get clinically plus science backed products combined with real sustainability We’re here for the planet and all of its inhabitants www.elims.com

Ina Labs

Our founders, Susan Goldsberry (world-renowned cosmetic chemist) and Dr. Beri Ridgeway (leading OB/GYN), combine decades of disruptive product development with deep clinical expertise Ina makes clean, clinically tested skincare for a woman ' s most intimate skin, from effective plant-based hygiene routines to OB/GYN-developed solutions for common concerns www.inalabs.com

Madame Lemy

Madame Lemy is an all-natural, luxurious body care brand Our products are vegan, crueltyfree, and free of toxic chemicals. Our unique powder formula can be used as deodorant, body powder, dry shampoo, and more Looking forward, we have more personal and body care products in the works www.madamelemy.com

Manifest Beauty

Manifest Beauty is a clean, vegan, and cruelty-free California-based beauty brand for those who attract it all We empower women to unleash their best selves through lip plumper’s that amplify self-love and high vibrations With this mission in mind, we give 3% of our net sales to Look Good Feel Better www.manifest-beauty.com

Nicole Ravachi

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the
Nicole Ravachi Brand launched in 2018, offering genderless beauty for all skin types in LATAM Our mission is to simplify skincare and make beauty more accessible. The high-quality multifunctional products are designed to fit any lifestyle and combine science and nature in a balanced way creating high-quality products that balance science, lifestyle, and effectiveness www.nicoleravachibrand.com participants
at Booth No. 1917!
pavilion
Visit with all innovators in the
and then cast your vote for the 2023 People’s Choice Award. You must download the mobile app to participate. The winner will be announced on Wednesday, May 3rd at 3:00 p.m. in Hall D.

Join the INDIE 360º Pavilion participants at Booth No. 1917!

Visit with all innovators in the pavilion and then cast your vote for the 2023 People’s Choice Award. You must download the mobile app to participate. The winner will be announced on Wednesday, May 3rd at 3:00 p.m. in Hall D.

Nulastin

Female-founded Nulastin is redefining what it means to be a beauty brand by focusing on performance driven, scientifically backed, and ethically derived elastin replenishment Using proprietary Elastaplex technology, formulas are proven to revitalize lashes, brows, hair, and skin The simple routine takes minutes per day and delivers natural, beautiful, ongoing results www.nulastin.com

Palmless

Palmless is the sustainable alter native to palm oil, biodesigned by the scientists and innovators at C16 Biosciences, and comes from a natural yeast It was born at the intersection of perfor mance moisturization and natural innovation Our nourishing oil is powered by Palmless Torula Oil, a luxe new bio-designed oil made from yeast, not from trees It contains unique carotenoids and sterols found only in the fungal kingdom, which promote skin barrier function and help skin maintain moisture and a glowing appearance www gopalmless com

Raaka’s World

Raaka's World is an innovative beauty brand founded by Dr Shobana Vankipuram, a firstgeneration woman physician whose mission is to empower women through easy, authentic, and transfor mative self-care experiences The brand offers luxurious, vegan products containing scientifically proven unique ingredients with their commitment to the highest sustainability and ethical standards www raakasworld com

República Skin

Our skin tells a sweet story of our roots, and like history, it deserves to be preserved and celebrated Born and inspired in the Dominican Republic and founded by Julissa Bermudez, República Skin shares the rich heritage of sensually radiant skin with clean body care inspired by nature The flagship product, Sugar Body Polish, is the ultimate skin indulgence with a rich blend of naturally derived oils and butters paired with finely milled organic sugar creating a sensorial gentle exfoliation all over the body The result: Skin Sweet as Sugar www.republicaskin.com

Roots Professional/Club Roots

Roots Professional brings the most complete cosmeceutical science for superior hair growth to the salon market, blending power and cosmetic excellence to introduce this technology into every woman ’ s beauty regimen for proactive and reactive care Club Roots carries this tradition for both men and women into mass retail and more www rootsprofessional com

Six Gldn

Six Gldn is transformative skincare for every skin type Crafted with powerful botanicals and Korean herbal medicine, it’s formulated for maximum results in five steps Doctor formulated, der matologically tested, and backed by impressive independent test results, it’s vegan, cruelty free, and a member of 1% For The Planet. www.sixgldn.com

Truth Treatments

Truth Treatments are topical nutritional for mulas designed to heal skin. For mulated by Benjamin Knight Fuchs, R Ph , a der matology phar macist who realized that what had heretofore been considered to be superficial, cosmetic skin care needs for dry and aging skin were really health considerations that were largely the result of nutritional deficiencies The solution, as Phar macist Ben discovered in his compounding phar macy by working directly with physicians and patients, was in the transdermal delivery of high concentrations of topical nutrients as well as intelligently formulated systemic supplements. As a result, Truth Treatments was born. They are 100% active and functional skin health products, formulated without wax, oil, silicone, preservative, water, or anything else the skin doesn’t need or want www.truthtreatments.com

Supplier

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PROTAMEEN Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM
of specialty materials!

Chemistry STEM Outreach Program...Lear n More!

On May 2nd, the NYSCC will be hosting several middle school female students participating in the Jersey STEM’s newly launched “You be the Molecule!” program. They’ll have lunch with the young women participating in the Future Chemists Workshop and be given front row seats to observe the action. Afterwards they’ll be visiting sponsors ' booths to meet the women leading our industry and find out about all the exciting developments they are working on

We can think of no better way to inspire these young girls and encourage them to believe that there are exciting opportunities for them in STEM, and the chemical industry in particular. We hope you’ll join us in helping make this worthwhile endeavor a success If you would like to find out more, contact Dennis Boyd at Dennis.Boyd@jerseystem.org for details.

About JerseySTEM

JerseySTEM is a network of parents, professionals, students, and educators whose goal is to promote excellence in Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math (STEM) education We are dedicated to partnering with local New Jersey schools and other organizations to create and enhance STEM-oriented educational opportunities as part of students' paths towards college and career readiness, and to develop effective STEM programs and initiatives that engage students and educators. JerseySTEM is also committed to bridging the gender gap in STEM education and sharing STEM-related opportunities with underprivileged students and communities

Non-profit organizations like JerseySTEM exist because of the generosity from donors like you. For Suppliers’ Day 2023 we ask that you please contribute to help us continue with providing STEM programs to middle school girls in under-served communities in order to bridge the STEM opportunity, innovative, and gender gaps in the workforce

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 32

A Special Thank You

Goes to the Board and Companies of Committee Members who have volunteered their time to help plan and execute Suppliers’ Day 2023!

33 S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5

Dedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science, the Society strives to increase and disseminate scientific infor mation through meetings and publications. By promoting research in cosmetic science and industry, and by setting high ethical, professional, and educational standards, we reach our goal of improving the qualifications of cosmetic scientists Our mission is to further the interests and recognition of cosmetic scientists while maintaining the confidence of the public in the cosmetic and toiletries industry Nationally, membership is over 5,000 The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC), www.nyscc.org, is the largest chapter of the SCC with almost 1400 members.

NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD

NYSCC EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE

AHLS Programs

Susanna Fernandes Tri-K

Communications and Social Media

Maria Sousa Edgewell

Diversity and Inclusion

Desiree Reid and Alex Bliziotis

Desiree Reid and Co ; Revlon

NYSCC BOARD APPOINTMENTS

Employment James Grant Edgewell

Eventbrite Manager

Thomas Drwiega Fairleigh Dickinson University

Future Chemists Workshop

John Carola Katonah Chemical

Historian Steve Herman Consultant

Mentor/Mentee Program

Ava Atri and Mary Fendelander L’Oréal; CHANEL

NYSCC Education Night

Giorgino Macalino Coty

SUPPLIERS’ DAY

Registration Christina Philips Gattefossé

Scientific Committee

Hani Fares Ashland

Scholarship Committee

Toussaint Jordan L’Oréal

EXHIBITOR ADVISORY COUNCIL

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti Deveraux Specialties

Suppliers’ Day

Jane McDermott ECMA LLC

Suppliers’ Day Awards Night

Giorgino Macalino Coty

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 34
Chair Stacey
Coty Chair-Elect Amber Evans Morocconoil Advisor Giorgio Dell’Acqua Nutrafol Treasurer Alex Blakeman Superior Materials Secretary Luciana Coutinho Luluble By-Laws Amy Marshall Eckart Membership Chair John Carola Katonah Chemical Program Chair Cathy Piterski Essential Ingredients Cosmetiscope Editor Roger McMullen Ashland House Chair Lexi Piterski Essential Ingredients Show Management Jane McDermott ECMA LLC Show Management Erin Layton ECMA LLC European Sales Ria van den Bogaert ECMA LLC Conferences Liz Tracey ECMA LLC Press/ Communications Annie Scully ECMA LLC C a r o l m a r i e C B r o w n Global Corporate Affairs Ashland Te r r y M u l l i n Head of Corporate Communications Azelis A n d r e w M i l l e r Head of Marketing, Personal Care N A BASF Corporation W e s M o o r e Business Manager Chattem V i c t o r i a M i t c h e l Marketing Communications Mgr, NA Clariant D o n n a P e t r e t t i Marketing Manager Croda L i s a R u i z Sales Coordinator Essential Ingredients, Inc D a r i a L o n g Director, Personal Care Gelest, Inc S t e p h e n C a r t e r Director, Home and Personal Care aurorium J i m F r a n c i s c o Sales Manager Vantage Corporation L a u r a S z y m c z a k Senior Director, Marketing Ultra Chemical,
House
Inc

MARM 2023 Chemistry Refocused Cosmetic Science Symposium

June 9-10, 2023

Graduate Center of the City University of New York • New York, NY

The New York ACS along with its partners at The Graduate Center of the City University of New York and Saint John’s University are proud to present the 2023 Middle Atlantic Regional Meeting on June 9-10, 2023

The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists in collaboration with the New York Local Section of the ACS will offer a mor ning symposium on June 9th focused on cosmetic chemistry coupled with a panel discussion on careers in the cosmetics industry.

The speakers in this symposium will cover topics ranging from sustainable approaches to sourcing cosmetic ingredients, decoding ingredient labels, hair care chemistry, sunscreen for mulations, and textile technology in cosmetic for mulations This technical session will be capped off with a Q&A about the cosmetics industry Details of the topics and speakers are given below

Cosmetic Science Symposium Topics and Speakers:

• Hair Care and the Chemistry W ithin – Amber Evans, Ph.D.

• Sourcing and Developing Cosmetic Ingredients Using a Sustainable Approach –Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.

• For mulating Sunscreens – Hani Fares, Ph D

• Decoding Ingredient Labels – Stacey House

• How Textile Technology Innovations Transfer into Color Cosmetic For mulatins –Sue Feng, Ph.D.

Students!

Save $25 off your registration when you used the code: MARM2023STUDENT

Limit – 30 Student Registrations

To register for the event, visit the MARM website: www.marm2023.org

Questions about this symposium can be directed to its organizer: Giorgio Dell'Acqua, Ph.D.

2023 MARM Cosmetic Chemistry Symposium Chair

E-mail: giorgio dellacqua@hotmail.com

35 M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5

NYSCC Acne Care Symposium

June 14, 2023 • 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.

Fairleigh Dickinson University • Florham Campus – Madison, NJ

Don’t miss this full-day symposium, which will include podium presentations from a line-up of inter nationally recognized experts in acne care as well as a technology poster session for attendees to interact with researchers in the field The event will be held at the beautiful Fairleigh Dickinson University Florham Campus located in Madison, New Jersey The campus consists of 178 acres, which is the for mer country estate of early 20th-century socialites Florence Vanderbilt and Hamilton Twombly

Fairleigh Dickinson University instituted a Master of Science degree program in Cosmetic Science in 1982 one of the first of its kind It maintains close ties with the cosmetic industry where most of its professors come from leading institutions within industry, offering students a strong academic and practical approach to creating novel products.

Event Chairs

• Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland, Inc ); e-mail: roger mcmullen@fdu edu

• Miao Wang, Ph.D. (L’Oréal USA)

Registration

To register for this symposium, go to the Events section of NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org)

Agenda:

9:45

Acne Update: What's New and What's True

– Mary Wu Chang, M.D. (University of Connecticut School of Medicine)

Key Strategic Targets for Mitigating Acne-Affected Skin

– Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Ph.D (Sytheon Ltd.)

11:45

Challenges Commonly Encountered with Acne Therapy

– Hilary Baldwin, M D (Acne Treatment and Research Center)

Multi-modal and 3D Imaging for Objective Evaluation of Acne

– Sachin V. Patwardhan, Ph.D (Canfield Scientific Inc.) 12:15

Category Insights and Consumer Trends

– Francine Krenicki (Crown Laboratories)

Cutibacterium Acnes, Phages, and Acne

– Nathan Brown, Ph D (Parallel Health)

Registration
9:00 a.m.
9:45 a.m.
a m
a m Opening Remarks
– 10:00
10:00 a m – 10:30 a m
m
10:30 a m – 11:00 a
a m
11:15 a m Break 11:15 a m – 11:45 a m
11:00
p m
a m – 12:15
p m
p m – 12:45
12:45 p m – 2:15 p m Poster Session and Lunch 2:15 p m – 2:45 p m
N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 36

2:45 p m – 3:15 p m

Evaluation of Microbiome Changes Related to Cleanser Use in Healthy and Acne Prone Skin

– Amina Bouslimani, Ph.D. (L’Oréal USA)

3:15 p m – 3:45 p m Novel Solutions for Acne Derived from the Manuka Plant

– Merve Samur (Manuka Bioscience)

3:45 p m – 4:00 p m Break

4:00 p m – 4:30 p m

Acne Vulgaris in the United States: Burden of Disease and Prescribing Trends

– Ayman Grada M.D. (Case Western Reserve University School of Medicine)

4:30 p m – 5:00 p m

What If the Rules of Fighting Acne Have Changed?

– Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

5:00 p m – 6:00 p m

Cocktail Reception

Call for Poster Abstracts

Submission Deadline – May 15th

We are currently accepting abstracts for the poster session Please send abstract submissions to Raymond (Bret) Clark at rclark@ashland com

Symposium Location

Fairleigh Dickinson University

Florham Campus, Lenfell Hall (located in Hennessy Hall – #7 on the map)

285 Madison Avenue, Madison, New Jersey

37 M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5 (continued on Page 38)

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

Acne Update: What’s New and What’s True

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting up to 50 million Americans annually Approximately 85% of people between the ages of 12 and 24 have acne Adult acne is increasing, and now affects up to 15 percent of women This talk will begin with a look at different types of acne and review the medications in the der matologist's ar mamentarium

Dr Chang is a board-certified dermatologist and pediatric dermatologist with over 26 years ' experience. After graduating from University of W isconsin School of Medicine and Public Health, she went on to complete a pediatrics residency at Kaiser San Francisco followed by a der matology residency at Wayne State University she served as Chief Resident for both residencies Dr Chang then joined the full-time faculty at NYU Medical Center for 7 years before moving to Connecticut in 2005. Currently, Dr. Chang is Associate Professor of Der matology and Pediatrics at the University of Connecticut School of Medicine where she runs a busy clinic and enjoys teaching medical students as well as der matology and pediatric resident physicians She has published extensively in the literature and frequently lectures regionally and nationally Her interests include hemangiomas and vascular malfor mations, severe acne, atopic der matitis, and clinical drug trials

Key Strategic Targets for Mitigating Acne-Affected Skin

Ratan K. Chaudhuri (Sytheon Ltd )

We have come a long way since 1896, when it was suggested that Propionibacterium acnes found in acne lesions was the cause of acne. Recently, high resolution core genome analysis combining 16S rRNA gene sequences led to changing the name of P acnes to Cutibacterium acnes (Scholtz et al , Int J Sys Evo Microbiol , 66: 4422-4432, 2016) While the commensal bacterium C acnes is involved in the maintenance of healthy skin, it can also act as an opportunistic pathogen in acne vulgaris Recent studies have shown that the relative abundance of C acnes (in metagenomics studies) is similar among patients with acne and healthy individuals (87%–89%) or even higher in healthy subjects (89% to 94%) Multiple studies highlighted that the severity of acne might not only be due to a specific C. acnes strain but also due to host and environmental factors. Early and intense inflammatory events in the epider mis have indeed been shown to contribute to the development of acne

Typically, the mean lifetime of each acne lesion is a few days for inflammatory and a few weeks for non-inflammatory ones. Two distinct, partially overlapping, processes need to be addressed during the treatment of acne One is accelerating the healing of the ongoing lesions and the other one is to prevent the huge number of sebaceous glands prone to enter the acne cycle. Therefore, the key strategic targets in acne care appear to be the pilosebaceous follicle that is not yet involved in the acne cycle and the second one is to adequately control the key switching factors of comedone formation for long term relief A multi-tasking strategy is needed to improve the conditions of acne-affected skin. Taking all these factors into consideration, we will address key targets gover ning acne therapy while preventing hyperpigmentation issues. Discussions will also include reasons for selecting ingredients for mitigating acne-affected skin

Dr. Chaudhuri is President and CEO of Sytheon, which he founded in 2006. Sytheon is an innovative global specialty ingredient company Sytheon’s global headquarters is in Parsippany, New Jersey, USA with its two affiliates in France and Singapore Ratan is a humble entrepreneur by heart and a thinker with strong leadership skills He has developed numerous best-in-class products for the

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 38 NYSCC Acne Care Symposium… (continued from Page 37)

personal care industry, just to name two recent gold standards – Sytenol A (Bakuchiol) and Synovea HR (Hexylresorcinol) Ratan holds over 100 U S and inter national patents and has over 100 publications including six book chapters Ratan has been named as one of the top 10 inspiring business leaders by Inc. Magazine to watch in 2022. He can be reached by telephone (+1 201-303-5594) or e-mail (ratan@sytheonltd com)

Challenges Commonly Encountered with Acne Therapy

Hilary Baldwin (Acne Treatment and Research Center)

In this presentation, we will address challenges in topical and oral acne treatment. Topical retinoids are the mainstay of acne therapy They improve existing lesions, and prevent the development of the microcomedones, which are the predecessors of future lesions However, topical retinoids can be irritating, especially in the first few weeks of treatment. This often leads to inconsistent use or discontinuation Benzoyl peroxide is a highly effective, rapid-onset antibacterial which does not promote the development of bacterial resistance. It also decreases the development of antibacterial resistance to both topical and oral antibiotics with which is it used in combination Unfortunately, benzoyl peroxide is a concentration-dependent irritant it bleaches fabric and is an uncommon sensitizer

Oral antibiotics are highly effective in treating the inflammatory lesions of acne. However, the effects are rarely durable resulting in overuse and the development of bacterial resistance Pregnant and lactating women often experience acne. Unfortunately, clinical trials do not include this population and as such, little exists in the way of efficacy or safety data As a result, these patients are generally told by their obstetricians to forgo treatment until delivery/weaning regardless of the severity of their disease.

Isotretinoin can be used to treat the most severe cases of acne and 80% of those who complete a course will not need acne treatment again It should be noted that there are many potential side effects of the drug, most of which are easily managed. The inter net tells a different story, however, frightening patients with misinfor mation

n Hilary Baldwin, M.D.

Hilary Baldwin is a board-certified der matologist and Medical Director of the Acne Treatment and Research Center in Brooklyn, New York She is a Clinical Associate Professor of Der matology at Rutgers Robert Wood Johnson Medical Center Dr Baldwin has interests in acne, rosacea, keloidal scarring, cosmeceuticals, and the skin microbiome She is a frequent national and international lecturer and visiting professor, and her work has been published extensively in der matology jour nals Dr Baldwin served as a founding board member and second president of the American Acne and Rosacea Society.

Multi-modal and 3D Imaging for Objective Evaluation of Acne

Sachin V. Patwardhan (Canfield Scientific Inc )

Lesion counts and Investigators Global Assessment (IGA) are the primary endpoints in acne clinical studies. However, they both suffer from inter- and intra-evaluator variability. Characteristics of acne lesions can be captured, detected, and objectively measured using multi-modal imaging

Collectively these detected characteristics can identify both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions, and the measurements can be translated to a global severity score These objective measurements have been used in several clinical studies as exploratory endpoints or for verifying subject enrollment Canfield Scientific’s VISIA-CRP now combines multi-modal imaging with micron-resolution 3D facial imaging. This has further improved the ability to detect, and measure, raised topography of acne lesions VISIA-CRP and its early use in reducing variability in clinical trials, standardizing outcomes, and obtaining more insights into treatment effects will be presented

(continued on Page 40)

39 M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5

Dr Sachin V Patwardhan is the Chief Intellectual Property Officer and Senior Principal Scientist at Canfield Scientific Inc. He developed a multi-spectral imaging device for early diagnosis of melanoma during his Ph D at New Jersey Institute of Technology (NJIT). He then helped in establishing the optical radiology lab at Washington University School of Medicine in Saint Louis while doing postdoctoral research His research there involved developing a small animal diffuse optical and fluorescence tomography system for studying disease models with targeted treatment Since then, for the past 16 years he has focused his research on developing optical imaging techniques and image analysis algorithms for objective assessment of skin diseases and aesthetic conditions at Canfield Scientific Inc His work is published in several jour nals, and he has 11 granted patents and counting

Category Insights and Consumer Trends

Francine Krenicki (Crown Laboratories)

In this presentation we will discuss the acne category's past, present, and future. We will analyze and provide insight to where acne treatment is headed in the future and share some experiences of what works for selected brands. In addition, we will dive into ingredient trends and consumer insights.

n Francine Krenicki

Francine Krenicki is a beauty executive with over 20 years of experience specializing in new product development, innovation, and brand strategy and has created award winning for mulas in product categories including skincare, color, personal care, haircare, and fragrance She has dedicated her career to creating meaningful product innovation that resonates with consumers and creates consistent brand loyalty Currently Francine is the Senior Vice President of Global Product Development for Crown Laboratories where she oversees innovation for eight skincare brands including the iconic PanOxyl Acne line as well as the top selling premium clinical skincare brand StriVectin Prior to joining Crown Laboratories, Francine launched the clean clinical skincare brand Skinfix.

Cutibacterium Acnes, Phages, and Acne

Nathan Brown (Parallel Health)

Acne vulgaris was first attributed to Cutibacterium acnes bacteria isolated from acne lesions by Raymond Sabouraud in 1897 Bacteriophages (phages), which infect bacteria, have been used to treat bacterial infections since they were discovered in the early 20th century Phages have been used to treat acne almost as long In some cases, Staphylococcus phages were used, and in other cases, Cutibacterium phages were used, which reflects the long-standing debate over which bacterium “exactly” is involved in the development of acne Currently, specific phylotypes of C acnes are thought to be involved in acne, though it’s still debated whether C. acnes has any role to play. Unfortunately, Koch’s Postulates cannot be used to clarify the role of C acnes in acne vulgaris because the bacteria are ubiquitous on healthy skin with sebaceous glands New methods such as fine-scale population genomics of C. acnes isolated from hair follicles, shotgun metagenomics methods, and topically applied phages may shed light on the role of C acnes and other bacteria in the development of acne.

Dr Nathan Brown ear ned his Ph D in microbiology in 2016 from Oregon State University, where he worked on bacteriophage and bacterial genomics, and used metagenomics to study bacterial ecology. He did postdoctoral work on phage therapy at the University of Leicester in Leicester, UK He left academia in

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 40 NYSCC Acne Care Symposium… (continued from Page 39)

2018 to develop the world’s first phage-based cosmetic product, launched in March 2020. Since 2020, he and his cofounder, Natalise Kalea Robinson, have been developing personalized phage-based cosmetics paired with an advanced skin microbiome test at Parallel Health He has over 15 years of experience working with bacteriophages in different capacities and is passionate about introducing phages to the general population as part of a better way of life

Evaluation of Microbiome Changes Related to Cleanser Use in Healthy and Acne Prone Skin

Amina Bouslimani (L’Oréal USA)

Topical acne management involves a judicially chosen treatment regimen paired with a compatible cleanser to remove dirt and excess oil without compromising protective lipid and microbiome barrier, while addressing acne-related microbiome imbalance. To build knowledge on the acute and long-ter m effect of cleansers on skin properties and the microbiome in healthy and acne-prone skin, different types of cleansers were evaluated over a 28-day regimen. Facial microbiome samples were collected at different intervals after cleansing and analyzed by 16S rRNA sequencing and qPCR The effect of cleansing on sebum and skin hydration was evaluated at the same time points

All cleansers had a similar and transient effect on sebum, hydration, and bacterial diversity immediately after cleansing Cleanser composition had however a differential effect on the kinetics of skin properties and microbiome recovery. These results implicate the importance of future studies to support development of next generation cleansers for healthy and acne prone skin

n Amina

Currently a Senior Scientist at L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Amina establishes exter nal partnerships with academia and industry to accelerate knowledge about the skin microbiome and identify new technologies and actives for compromised skin Amina completed her Ph D in biochemistry and biomedical sciences at the University of Montpellier in France where she studied the penetration and intra-tumoral metabolism of chemotherapeutic drugs in clinical samples using imaging mass spectrometry techniques She completed a postdoctoral fellowship and then worked as a Project Scientist at the University of California San Diego in Professor Pieter Dorrestein’s laboratory She developed metabolomics-based tools to analyze and visualize large-scale metabolomics data and to link skin metabolites to their associated microbes Her research interests are studying the impact of individual lifestyles on skin metabolites and microbes, identifying molecular biomarkers of skin conditions, and forensic applications to link skin chemical signatures to molecular traces transferred to everyday objects.

Novel Solutions for Acne Derived from the Manuka Plant

Merve Samur (Manuka Bioscience)

Acne is a common skin condition that affects millions of people worldwide. Traditional treatments for acne include antibiotics and topical agents such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid However, these treatments are often associated with side effects and may not be effective for all individuals. Recent research has demonstrated the potential of natural products in the treatment of acne. In particular, East Cape mānuka oil and Australian tea tree oil have been found to possess potent antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties that can be har nessed for acne treatment.

East Cape mānuka oil contains up to 33% β-triketones, which have been found to be highly effective against gram-positive bacteria such as Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epider midis, with MIC values of 0.07% and 0.05-0.078%, respectively. Australian tea tree oil, on the other hand, is highly effective against gram-negative bacteria and has been found to have greater efficacy against fungi such as Candida albicans. The combination of these two oils has been shown to offer enhanced antimicrobial activity,

(continued on Page 42)

41 M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5

making it suitable for various therapeutic, skincare, and consumer applications

We created a synergistic blend of East Cape mānuka oil concentrate and palmarosa oil that has been found to have a range of skincare benefits, including anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and anti-acne properties. In particular, the mānuka-palmarosa oil blend has been found to be highly effective in reducing the UVR-induced IL-1b inflammatory response in skin fibroblast cells Its antibacterial properties have also been evaluated against various pathogens, including MRSA and Vancomycin-resistant Enterococcus species, providing a valuable alter native solution in combating antimicrobial resistance.

In anti-acne applications, a gel containing 2% (w/w) of the mānuka-palmarosa oil blend, PEG-6, and PEG-30 was found to be considerably more effective than traditional acne treatments such as 2.5% (w/w) benzoyl peroxide and 2% (w/w) salicylic acid Specifically, the mānuka-palmarosa oil blend gel was 76% more effective against C acnes and 35% more effective against S epider midis when compared to 2 5% (w/w) benzoyl peroxide When compared to 2% (w/w) salicylic acid, the gel was 141% more effective against C acnes and 244% more effective against S epider midis

In conclusion, East Cape mānuka oil offers a promising natural alter native for acne treatment. A synergistic blend of manuka and palmarosa oil has demonstrated potent anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and anti-acne properties, making it a versatile and effective skincare product for individuals seeking healthier, clearer skin

n Merve Samur

Merve Samur is an accomplished chemical for mulation designer with extensive experience in both FMCG and contract manufacturing. Based in Auckland, New Zealand, Merve has led the development of a wide range of skincare, hair care, and natural home care products for over 10 years. Merve is currently the R&D Manager of Manuka Bioscience where she oversees the complete product development lifecycle from concept through production Prior to this, she held positions as the Research & Development Manager and Product Development Specialist at The Cosmetic Company, also in Auckland Merve holds a bachelor’s degree in chemistry from the Izmir Institute of Technology. She has recently been awarded for her for mulations: Pure Beauty Awards 2022 – Best Serum; Health Post Best of Natural Awards 2022 – ManukaRx Eye Cream.

Acne Vulgaris in the United States: Burden of Disease and Prescribing Trends

Ayman Grada (Case Wester n Reserve University School of Medicine)

Acne vulgaris is the most common reason for pediatric patients and third most common reason for adult patients to seek care from a der matologist in the U S If not treated effectively, acne can lead to per manent scars. Acne is also associated with a significant psychosocial burden that impacts quality of life However, referring providers may be reluctant to initiate patients on acne treatment or certain prescriptions. In this presentation, we will review current temporal trends in epidemiology and burden of disease in the U S stratified by age, gender, and region We will share some insights on the evolving treatment paradigm and prescribing habits among der matologists and other clinicians treating acne vulgaris.

Dr. Grada is a U.S.-trained der matologist and a physician-scientist with over 17 years combined clinical practice, academic research, and regulated biopharma and biotech experience. He currently serves as an Adjunct Professor of Der matology at Case Wester n Reserve University School of Medicine Dr Grada finished his der matology training and a postdoctoral fellowship in cutaneous wound healing at Boston University School of Medicine. He has published more than 120 articles in peer-reviewed jour nals on medical der matology, including acne vulgaris, actinic keratosis, wound healing, and epidemiology topics. Dr. Grada

N Y S C C C o s m e t i s c o p e | w w w . n y s c c . o r g 42 NYSCC Acne Care Symposium… (continued from Page 41)

has also been serving as a Medical Director of Dermatology at AbbVie. Prior to joining AbbVie, Dr. Grada served as the Head of R&D and Medical Affairs at Almirall (U S ), focusing on acne vulgaris Dr Grada is an active physician member of the American Academy of Der matology (AAD), European Academy of Der matology and Venereology (EADV), Society for Investigative Der matology (SID), Inter national Society of Der matology (ISD), American Acne and Rosacea Society (AARS), and the Wound Healing Society (WHS).

What if the Rules of Fighting Acne Have Changed?

Sophia Bull (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

Decreasing the C. acnes quantity is no longer the key to fighting acne, but its distribution between acneic and non-acneic strains is! Composed of a unique patented lysine dendrimer obtained with a green chemistry manufacturing process, we have designed a molecule that is able to selectively weaken the acneic Cutibacterium acnes (C acnes) strains to favor growth of non-acneic strains to gently rebalance and recover healthier microbiota and reduce the appearance of acne for clear and flawless skin.

Indeed, although the causes of acne are multifactorial, the involvement of microbiota is undeniable, particularly regarding the role played by C. acnes. Our knowledge about this bacterium has recently evolved to include a new understanding of its mode of action, which offers a new strategic perspective in the battle against acne Using advanced metagenomic technology, the C acnes genome revealed that this bacterium for ms a large family with several sub-groups, called phylotypes and ribotypes including acneic and non-acneic strains C acnes over-proliferation has long been thought to contribute to the development of acne, but recent studies now demonstrate that excess C. acnes colonization might not be an important factor, as a very small difference in the comparative amount of these bacteria in individuals with and without acne has been reported However, healthy skin and acneic skin have different C. acnes strain distribution profiles.

n Sophia Bull

Sophia Bull joined Lucas Meyer Cosmetics as the Regional Marketing Manager for North America in 2019. In this role she supports customers and delivers regionalized promotions and launches She is based at the IFF headquarters in New York City After several years working in the phar maceutical industry, Sophia began her career in the personal care industry as regulatory support for Croda, building on her technical background Roles in marketing and sales followed at Croda and then at Botaneco. Sophia obtained her master’s degree in chemistry from the University of Leeds in the United Kingdom

2023 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC infor mation, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC infor mation: www.scconline.org

May

May

June 9-10 MARM 2023, Chemistry Refocused, Graduate Center of the City University of New York, New York, NY

June 14 NYSCC Acne Symposium, Fairleigh Dickinson University, Florham Campus, Madison, NJ

August 12 NYSCC Fishing Trip 2023

43 S u p p l i e r s ’ D a y I s s u e | M a y 2 0 2 3 | V o l . 2 9 N o . 5
2-3 Suppliers’ Day, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY
New York, NY
2 NYSCC Awards Night, Second Floor NYC,
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