Cosmetiscope February 2022 by NYSCC Webmaster

February 2022 • Vol. 28 • Issue 2

Underarm Products and the Skin Microbiome

by Phil Klepak and Barbara Schmidt

oday, everyone is talking about the skin microbiome—scientists, product formulators, doctors, consumers, beauty editors, and more. But the skin microbiome is a relatively new term to most people. Even in the scientific and medical fields, it has only become a hot topic in recent years. The cosmetics industry has now begun serious research into the skin microbiome, using this knowledge to change how we protect our skin and overall health. Why is studying the skin microbiome important? In simple terms, the skin microbiome is defined as the collection of all microorganisms living on the skin. Studying the microbiome at different body sites can elucidate the aetiology of common disorders, which are often site-specific, such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, underarm malodor, etc. Also, a balanced microbiome is believed to be critical and integral to maintaining normal skin barrier function, thereby allowing the skin to appear and feel healthy. The cosmetics industry is leveraging the skin microbiome concept from the point of view of developing new products that foster healthy skin, but clinical support for the efficacy of these products still needs to be generated. This article is a review of the axillary microbiome, focusing on the positive and negative effects of underarm products and ingredients.

n The Axillary Microbiome and Malodor

Human axillary odor is commonly attributed to the bacterial degradation and metabolization of odorless eccrine, apocrine, and sebaceous gland secretions into volatile odorous compounds or odor agonists. The chemical classes implicated in axillary malodor (AKA body odor) are short chain volatile fatty acids (e.g., 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid), steroidal compounds (e.g., androstenone), and thioalcohols.1 Human axilla microbiology and its relationship to malodor have been studied for at least 50 years. Early work showed the axillary flora was a stable mixture of micrococci, aerobic diphtheroids (e.g., corynebacteria), and propionibacteria, with the aerobic diphtheroids recovered in high numbers in all subjects having typical body odor.2 Others have also performed detailed characterization of the underarm microflora, and confirmed four principal gram-positive groups (staphylococci, aerobic coryneforms, micrococci, and propionibacteria), and the yeast genus Malassezia.3 Subsequent work showed that no one group of organisms continuously dominates the population, but changes in the population density of Corynebacterium spp. was dominant especially for the detection of odor. Further, there were colonization differences between the right and left axillas possibly due to difference in nutrient availability.4 It is generally believed that the microbial flora is quantitatively stable with a high or low count being an inherent individual characteristic. Mapping studies of the axillary microbiota using rRNA gene sequencing showed significant variations between males and females. Male armpits were characterized with more Corynebacterium spp. and less Staphylococcus spp. compared to female armpits.5,6 The overall evidence correlates “bad” underarm odor with Corynebacterium spp., while “good” odor levels are associated with a (continued on Page 6) predominance of Staphylococcus spp.1,7

ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE AND ITS APPLICATION IN PERSONAL CARE ...see pages 4-5 for more information.

2022 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Susanna Fernandes advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

Letter from the Chair

…Giorgio Dell’Acqua

nd just like that, January came and went! Here we are in February, a cold time of year, but things are definitely heating up at the NYSCC. Beginning with a strong start to 2022, our first in-person event, Celebration of Color, was held at the Lightbox in New York City. Enthusiastic attendees enjoyed a full day of expert speakers and a unique immersive experience about trends, the history of color, surface treatment, the art and science of color, and so much more! Our Diversity and Inclusion Committee officially launched and is designed to engage all society members in conversation about scientific ideas that provide leadership in the cosmetics community around diversity and inclusion. Thank you to Desiree Reid and Alex Bliziotis for co-chairing this important initiative along with a committed team of volunteers. As many of you know, science has been a passion throughout my career and professional development. However, as chemists we cannot just focus on the science of the ingredients and formulations without considering the impact of their sourcing both on the environment and society. That is why the theme this year for the NYSCC chapter—and woven throughout our programs— will be science, sustainability, and social equity. We will take deep dives into these topics starting with our in-person February program featuring two renowned scientists discussing Artificial Intelligence and its Implications in Personal Care. This cutting-edge program will take place on February 17th at The Legacy Castle in Pompton Plains, NJ. Upcoming programs and topics that underscore our theme and mission will include: The Four Pillars of Sustainable Beauty; Skin and Hair Care Diversity; Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity; Natural Ingredients Science; and so much more. Please visit the Events Schedule on our website (www.nyscc.org) to see what we have planned for the entire year including in-person events, At Home Live Series, and social events including a sensory boat trip, golf tournament, fishing trip, and our popular culinary night. Of course, our main event, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, will be your destination for science, sustainability, and sourcing solutions! Please plan to join us at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center on May 3rd and 4th to network and discover some of the most innovative ingredients and products in beauty and personal care. If you missed our exciting event in November, please experience some of what Suppliers’ Day has to offer in this video recap found on the event’s home page: https://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/. The Chapter also invites all members and our community to submit a presentation outline for potential inclusion in the educational offerings at Suppliers’ Day. We encourage you to act today to participate in the education and enhancement of professionals involved in the formulation, sourcing, and marketing of cosmetic, beauty, and personal care products. The deadline for submissions is February 18th. Click here to submit. Expanding our outreach to students across the county, the NYSCC is also supporting the MWSCC Chapter in their Student Poster Competition. A trip to New York City to attend the Future Chemists Workshop during Suppliers’ Day will be awarded to the student poster winner(s) selected by the MWSCC Board during their Teamworks event on March 22nd. See the ad in this issue for more information and deadlines. I truly look forward to meeting many of our members at our upcoming events in person and online. Let’s keep our strong start to 2022 going!

Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org 2

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2022 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org February 17 March 2

Artificial Intelligence and its Application in Personal Care – The Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ The Four Pillars of Sustainable Beauty – At Home Live – Virtual Event

March 23

Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Ethical Sourcing and Biodiversity – At Home Live – Virtual Event

March 30

Clean Beauty and Minimalism – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

April 20

Skin and Hair Diversity – Seasons, Washington Township, NJ

April 26

Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Green Formulations and Ingredients – At Home Live – Virtual Event

May 3-4

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day – Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

June 16

NYSCC Boat Trip – Atlantic Yachts, Weehawken, NJ

June 30

Natural Ingredients Symposium – Brooklyn Botanical Garden, Brooklyn, NY

July 25 August 9 August 13 September 8 September 29 October 12 November 10 December 13-14 TBD

NYSCC Golf Tournament – Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ Environmental and Social Impacts of Cosmetic Products – At Home Live – Virtual Event NYSCC Fishing Trip – Atlantic Highlands, NJ Sunscreens – The Latest Updates and the Impact on the Environment – The Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Peapack and Gladstone, NJ Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity – Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY Scalp and Skin Microbiome – Novel Approaches to Formulate Gentle and Effective Products – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase – L.A. Live JW Marriott, Los Angeles, CA NYSCC Supports Education Night – Stay tuned for information on our annual event

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Artificial Intelligence and its Application in Personal Care February 17, 2022 5:00 – 8:30 p.m. The Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ

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rtificial intelligence (AI) has been used in the financial and computational fields for many years with great success. The use of such technology in the personal care industry is starting to make its impression. Areas like molecular design, formulations, scale-up, and manufacturing are some of the fields impacted by the technology. At this stage we are just scratching the surface as the growth of this field will have greater implications on our industry. In this seminar, two renowned scientists will introduce us to the world of AI and its applications in the world of cosmetics. They will share with us some great examples of how AI is applied in personal care. They will also highlight the benefits of such technology in speeding up the research and development process for launching new molecules and new products.

Agenda:

5:00 – 5:15 p.m. Welcome and Registration 5:15 – 6:00 p.m. First Speaker: Data Science and Machine Learning for Materials Development • Keith Task (BASF Corporation) 6:00 – 6:45 p.m. Cocktail Hour 6:45 – 8:30 p.m. Dinner and Keynote Speaker: Artificial Intelligence and its Application in the Development of New Molecules for the Cosmetic Industry • Solomon Jacobson (Ashland LLC) To register, go to the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

Data Science and Machine Learning for Materials Development

Keith Task (BASF Corporation)

he applications of data science in the industrial world are almost endless, and this is no exception in the chemical industry. In this talk, I will provide an overview of how digitalization, and in particular data science, is contributing to materials development. Specifically, I will focus on the challenges of data science in the industry and discuss state-of-the-art tools that are being used to overcome these challenges. We will discuss some success stories in the areas of machine learning and experimental design at the industrial level, particularly in the areas of formulation modeling and reverse engineering formulations. I will conclude with a long-term goal of data science—systems integration and artificial intelligence systems.

n Keith Task, Ph.D.

Keith Task is a senior digitalization research scientist at BASF Corporation and is based in Beachwood, OH. Keith obtained his B.S. and Ph.D. in Chemical Engineering from the University of Pittsburgh. Keith has been at BASF since 2015 and supports business and research units across the company through statistics and mathematical modeling. Keith’s primary interests include machine learning, experimental design, and linking data driven and mechanistic modeling.

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Artificial Intelligence and its Application in the Development of New Molecules for the Cosmetic Industry

Solomon Jacobson (Ashland LLC)

here has been explosive growth in the use of artificial intelligence (AI) and digital technology for innovation and product development. As early adopters of machine learning and molecular simulation, we have encouraged the use of digital technology to accelerate innovation. New ideas, methods, and best practices that take advantage of these new tools and enhance innovation have been implemented in our laboratories. Molecular simulation, AI/machine learning, and predictive modeling are used to commercialize new products with superior properties. Physical-chemical based molecular models are used to simulate molecular structure, dynamics, and interactions giving us insight into the chemical behavior that drives critical-to-function properties. Statistical models based on AI uncover hidden structure-property relationships and optimize chemical processes and properties enabling informed decision making and product innovation. Development of new antimicrobial ingredients and new hair fixatives using an AI-based rational design approach will be presented.

n Solomon Jacobson, Ph.D.

Dr. Jacobson is a subject matter expert in computational chemistry, machine learning, polymer chemistry, and materials science with more than 20 years of experience solving challenging technical problems related to the personal care industry. With extensive experience in molecular simulation, AI/machine learning, and predictive modeling, Dr. Jacobson elucidates physical-chemical mechanisms and uncovers hidden structure property relationships that facilitate informed decision making and significantly shortens the product development cycle. Since joining Ashland LLC in 2016, he has been responsible for implementation, development, and utilization of computational chemistry and AI/machine learning methods. These include high quality quantum mechanics (QM), molecular dynamics (MD), soft matter simulation, polymer models, quantitative structure activity relationships (QSAR), and visualization. These AI and data analytics techniques are becoming increasingly more important to optimize product manufacturing processes and speed up the innovation pipeline.

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Underarm Products and the Skin Microbiome

n Effects of Selected Ingredients on the Microbiome and Odor Aluminum Salts

BEAUTY

begins here. Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care. GO

(continued from Page 1)

Aqueous solutions of the antiperspirant ingredients aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH), buffered aluminum chloride, and aluminum sulfate are effective bactericidal and bacteriostatic agents for micrococci and diphtheroids in both in vitro and in vivo studies. Further, the three salts were found to be equally effective in reducing the cutaneous bacterial axillary population under controlled conditions.8 In another early and interesting in vivo study, ACH mainly suppressed gram-positive organisms, with no expansion of gram-negative organisms. It appeared that as long as some grampositive organisms were present, they exerted a restraining influence on a larger number of gram-negative organisms. There was good reduction of odor throughout the study.9 These kinds of studies formed the basis for the FDA-OTC Antiperspirant Monograph concluding that “it was highly probable that the principal deodorancy effect of antiperspirants is a result of antibacterial actions.” A more recent study demonstrated that levels of aluminum and aluminumzirconium antiperspirant actives as low as 5% aqueous concentrations were as effective as triclosan in D10 killing times (time for a 1 log or 90% reduction) against selected gram-positive underarm organisms.10

Deodorant/Antibacterial Ingredients

Many materials are promoted as deodorants based on their antibacterial action. For example: • Triclosan (0.15%) has been evaluated in numerous studies and its in vivo antibacterial effectiveness in various deodorant formats versus gram-positive Micrococcus spp. and Corynebacterium spp. has been established, as well as improvements in deodorancy in olfactory studies.11 • Zinc oxide reduced both self-judged malodor and the counts of odor causing Corynebacterium spp. versus a placebo in a double-blind study. A one unit increase in the underarm pH was noted.12 • The quaternary ammonium compound, polyquaternium-16, in a formulation showed significantly reduced malodor and axillary bacteria after 48 hours compared to a commercially available deodorant.13 • Farnesol Plus, a commercially available nature-identical mixture of farnesol, phenoxyethanol, and glyceryl laurate, was shown to effectively inhibit the growth of Corynebacterium spp., which the authors state are the main producers of malodor from underarm sweat and skin surface lipids.14 • Triethylcitrate has been used as a deodorant ingredient that purportedly inhibits bacterial enzymatic breakdown of sweat components.15 Likewise, vanillyl alcohol allegedly inhibits axillary bacteria fatty acid metabolism, providing deodorancy without affecting the axilla microbiome.16 Aside from patent and product literature, peer-reviewed scientific support for these ingredient claims is lacking.17 • Very recently, various alpha hydroxy acids have appeared in deodorants, as their antimicrobial properties are thought to help reduce malodor by lowering the pH of the skin and making it harder for odor-causing bacteria to thrive. However, published deodorancy data is not evident to date.

Botanical Extracts

Phytochemicals have the potential to modify the axillary microbiome via broad antimicrobial action or as prebiotics if they are utilized by beneficial skin microbes. Plant essential oils are a well-known example of antimicrobials. They are a mixture of mainly terpenoid compounds (e.g., eugenol, thymol, citral) often used as natural fragrances or preservatives in cosmetics. Common essential oil extracts include tea tree oil, lemongrass, sage, rosemary, lavender, and black pepper. These ingredients are regularly present in deodorants. A number of plant extracts and phytochemicals have been screened for in vitro activity against Corynebacterium and Staphylococcus spp. Extracts from the lichen Usnea barbata and its predominant 6

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component, usnic acid, have particularly high activity against Corynebacterium.18 Rosemary and sage also effectively control Corynebacterium but their activity is inferior compared to U. barbata. Usnic acid is patented as an ingredient in stick deodorants and has been studied in clinical trials for underarm odor. Veterinary products with essential oils have been designed to change the skin microbiome in ways that reduce malodor. Laboratoire de Dermo-Cosmetique Animale (LDCA; Castres, France) produces a line of essential oil-based products to correct cutaneous imbalances in domestic animals and livestock. One of their products (Essential 6® spot-on) was shown to significantly improve malodor and reduced skin bacterial diversity in dogs.19 Although dogs’ microbiome includes significant numbers of Staphylococcus and Corynebacterium, this study found dogs’ malodor was more highly associated with Psychrobacter and Pseudomonas.

Probiotics/Postbiotics

The terms probiotics, prebiotics, synbiotics, and postbiotics are frequently misused and misunderstood in the field of cosmetics. The International Scientific Association for Probiotics and Prebiotics (ISAPP) published consensus definitions that every cosmetic chemist should read before placing a raw material into one of these categories. In short, a probiotic contains live beneficial microbes; a prebiotic feeds beneficial microbes; a synbiotic is a combination of the two; and a postbiotic contains inanimate microbes plus/minus their fermentation products. All of these biotics must provide health benefits for the host in order to meet the definition. In the case of cosmetics, the benefits must be proven for topical application of the specific strain of bacteria. Many cosmetics marketed as probiotics contain microbes appropriated from the dairy industry or gut microbiome research such as strains of Lactobacillus. There is limited clinical evidence deodorants containing pro-, pre-, or postbiotics could alter the axillary microbiome in a favorable manner. A formula with lyophilized Lactobacillus pentosus KCA1 (viability unknown) and a formula with 3% of the prebiotic, 2-butyloctanol, both reduced axillary Corynebacterium and increased Staphylococcus.20,21 Unfortunately, neither study assessed malodor. However, a deodorant with Lactobacillus acidophilus KNU-02 fermented Lotus corniculatus seed extract and other plant-based ingredients changed the axillary microbiome in a similar manner and reduced malodor intensity.22 There was a significant association between Corynebacterium and Anaerococcus and odor intensity, but not with Staphylococcus or Propionibacterium. This formula could meet the definition of postbiotic since it contained fermentation products that provided a health benefit.

n Regular/Long-Term Use of Underarm Products

Regular or long-term use of traditional antiperspirant and deodorant products can significantly alter the bacterial groups colonizing the human axillary region including Staphylococcus (Firmicutes), Corynebacterium (Actinobacteria), Propionibacterium (Actinobacteria), and Micrococcus (Actinobacteria) spp. Non-antiperspirant users have about 50 times more axillary bacteria than antiperspirant users.5 Regular antiperspirant use lowers bacterial density/abundance and possibly shifts the population towards more odor-causing Actinobacteria.23 It has been shown that discontinuing antiperspirant use can increase bacterial density and the abundance of Firmicutes, and decrease Actinobacteria after as little as four days.24 There is evidence deodorant use also decreases bacterial density, but the effect is less pronounced in subjects that use antiperspirant. Since both antiperspirants and deodorants inhibit the most abundant species in the axilla (Staphylococcus and Corynebacteria), species richness and evenness may paradoxically increase with antiperspirant and deodorant use.23 Overall, the changes in axillary microbiome with regular antiperspirant and deodorant use appear to be reversible after discontinuation of product use.

n Future Research

The impact of topically applied products on the skin microbiome should be taken seriously. A number of studies have demonstrated traditional underarm products as well as plant-based and biotic formulations can alter the axillary microbiome and reduce malodor. Despite some reports to date, we don’t really know yet if the long-term effects of the use of underarm products on microbiome health are beneficial (continued on Page 8)

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Underarm Products and the Skin Microbiome

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or detrimental. For example, if a product selectively inhibits Actinobacteria because certain Corynebacterium spp. cause malodor, could long-term use eventually lead to bacterial resistance? There is already evidence the axillary bacterium Corynebacterium jeikeium has developed multidrug-resistance and can cause opportunistic infections.25 Have we taken into account the housekeeping roles Actinobacteria play on the skin, how they interact with other systems in the body like the immune system, or how their suppression affects the skin’s barrier function? Could suppression allow a potentially pathogenic microbe to gain a foothold? All these research questions should be investigated to create products that are fully safe and effective. This topic is worth exploring in detail. Let’s not forget that, after many years, no strong epidemiologic or scientific evidence has linked Alzheimer’s disease or breast cancer to aluminum exposure from antiperspirants. Further, even though parabens have been found in breast tissue, there is no definitive evidence that they cause breast cancer, but our industry responsibly removed them from deodorants. As we formulate new underarm deodorants specifically designed to favor certain types of microbes to reduce malodor, we must gain a more thorough understanding of the role they play in overall skin health, ensuring consumer safety and confidence.

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References

1. A.G. James, C.J. Austin, D.S. Cox, D. Taylor, and R. Calvert, Microbiological and biochemical origins of human axillary odour, FEMS Microbiol. Ecol., 83(3), 527–540 (2013). 2. J.J. Leyden, K.J. McGinley, E. Hölzle, J.N. Labows, and A.M. Kligman, The microbiology of the human axilla and its relationship to axillary odor, J. Invest. Dermatol., 77(5), 413-416 (1981). 3. D. Taylor, A. Daulby, S. Grimshaw, G. James, J. Mercer, and S. Vaziri, Characterization of the microflora of the human axilla, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 25(3), 137-145 (2003). 4. D. Hopwood, M.D. Farrar, R.A. Bojar, and K.T. Holland, Microbial colonization dynamics of the axillae of an individual over an extended period, Acta Derm. Venereol., 85(4), 363-364 (2005). 5. M. Troccaz, N. Gaïa, S. Beccucci, J. Schrenzel, I. Cayeux, C. Starkenmann, and V. Lazarevic, Mapping axillary microbiota responsible for body odours using a culture-independent approach, Microbiome, 3(1), 3 (2015). 6. C. Callewaert, F.M. Kerckhof, M.S. Granitsiotis, M. Van Gele, T. Van de Wiele, and N. Boon, Characterization of Staphylococcus and Corynebacterium clusters in the human axillary region, PLoS One, 8(8), e70538 (2013). 7. M.J. Marples, Life on the human skin, Sci. Am., 220(1), 108-115 (1969). 8. I.H. Blank and R.K. Dawes, Antibacterial activity of weak solutions of aluminum salts, AMA Arch. Derm., 81(4), 565-569 (1960). 9. N. Shehadeh and A.M. Kligman, The bacteria responsible for axillary odor. II, J. Invest. Dermatol., 41(1), 3 (1963). 10. P. Klepak, In vitro killing time studies of antiperspirant salts, SOFW, 116(13), 478-481 (1990). 11. A. Cox, Efficacy of the antimicrobial agent triclosan in topical deodorant products: Recent developments in vivo, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 38(4), 223-231 (1987). 12. M.S. Ågren, Zinc oxide inhibits axillary colonization by members of the genus Corynebacterium and attenuates self-perceived malodour: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, Acta Derm. Venereol., 100(10), adv00145 (2020). 13. B. Traupe, H. Fölster, H. Max, and J. Schulz, Effective axillary malodour reduction by polyquaternium-16-containing deodorants, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 39(2), 141-148 (2017). 14. U.-F. Haustein, J. Herrmann, U. Hoppe, W. Engel, and G. Sauermann, Growth inhibition of coryneform bacteria by a mixture of three natural products—Farnesol, glyceryl monolaurate, and phenoxyethanol: HGQ, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44(4), 211-220 (1993). 15. R. Osberghaus, Nonmicrobicidal deodorizing agents, Cosmet. Toil., 95, 48-50 (1980). 16. D.S. Cox, A.G. James, and D. Taylor, Cosmetic compositions. US Patent 7510704B2, 2009. 17. A. Lukacs, H.C. Korting, O. Braun-Falco, and K. Stanzl, Efficacy of deodorant and its components triethylcitrate and perfume, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42(3), 159-166 (1991). 18. S. Weckesser, K. Engel, B. Simon-Haarhaus, A. Wittmer, K. Pelz, and C.M. Schempp, Screening of plant extracts for antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeasts with dermatological relevance, Phytomedicine, 14(7-8), 508-516 (2007). 8

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19. C. Meason-Smith, C.E. Older, R. Ocana, B. Dominguez, S.D. Lawhon, J. Wu, A.P. Patterson, and A. Rodrigues Hoffmann, Novel association of Psychrobacter and Pseudomonas with malodour in bloodhound dogs, and the effects of a topical product composed of essential oils and plant-derived essential fatty acids in a randomized, blinded, placebo-controlled study, Vet. Dermatol., 29(6), 465-e158 (2018). 20. V. Onwuliri, N.R. Agbakoba, and K.C. Anukam, Topical cream containing live lactobacilli decreases malodor-producing bacteria and downregulates genes encoding PLP-dependent enzymes on the axillary skin microbiome of healthy adult Nigerians, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 20(9), 2989-2998 (2021). 21. M. Li, K. Truong, S. Pillai, T. Boyd, and A. Fan, The potential prebiotic effect of 2-butyloctanol on the human axillary microbiome, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 43(6), 627-635 (2021). 22. M.J. Kim, S.B. Tagele, H. Jo, M.C. Kim, Y. Jung, Y.J. Park, J.H. So, H.J. Kim, H.J. Kim, D.G. Lee, S. Kang, and J.H. Shin, Effect of a bioconverted product of Lotus corniculatus seed on the axillary microbiome and body odor, Sci. Rep., 11(1), 10138 (2021). 23. C. Callewaert, P. Hutapea, T. Van de Wiele, and N. Boon, Deodorants and antiperspirants affect the axillary bacterial community, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 306(8), 701-710 (2014). 24. J. Urban, D.J. Fergus, A.M. Savage, M. Ehlers, H.L. Menninger, R.R. Dunn, and J.E. Horvath, The effect of habitual and experimental antiperspirant and deodorant product use on the armpit microbiome, PeerJ, 4, e1605 (2016). 25. I. Brune, A. Becker, D. Paarmann, A. Albersmeier, J. Kalinowski, A. Pühler, and A. Tauch, Under the influence of the active deodorant ingredient 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl alcohol, the skin bacterium Corynebacterium jeikeium moderately responds with differential gene expression, J. Biotechnol., 127(1), 21-33 (2006).

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About the Authors

n Phil Klepak

Phil Klepak retired in 2018 after 31 years of direct experience in all aspects of antiperspirant and deodorant technology with Reheis/SummitReheis/Elementis as Global Director of Technical Services. This included knowledge of chemistry, formulations, process troubleshooting, clinical testing protocols, etc. He also taught the SCC continuing education course on antiperspirants and deodorants for many years.

n Barbara Schmidt, Ph.D.

Barbara Schmidt has a Ph.D. from the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign where she studied phytochemistry. She specializes in botanical raw materials for the personal care and dietary supplement industries. She authored an enthnobotany textbook in 2017 and is currently teaching phytochemistry for the Rutgers University Global Institute for BioExploration (GIBEX).

Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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NYSCC Scientific Committee

he NYSCC Scientific Committee is charged with developing content for communication on cosmetic science, innovation, supply chain, product and ingredient development, and other relevant topics for the cosmetic industry using communication platforms such as the NYSCC website (and blog), its official journal (Cosmetiscope) and social media outlets (e.g., Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, etc.). The NYSCC Scientific Committee supports the NYSCC in its educational activities—such as conferences during the year and during Suppliers’ Day—and participates in other societies’ events organizing joint seminars, conferences, etc. The NYSCC Scientific Committee helps to divulge scientifically proven information and reduces misinformation on cosmetics and cosmetic science.

2022 NYSCC Scientific Committee Members

n Hani Fares, Ph.D. – NYSCC Scientific Committee Chair

Dr. Fares started his career studying the effect of solvents on sunscreens. His interest in skin drug delivery grew during his doctoral research at Rutgers University. Dr. Fares worked at Block Drug and GlaxoSmithKline where he held R&D positions in skincare and oral care. He then joined L’Oréal where he eventually became Assistant Vice-President of skincare. He is currently a Senior Director of R&D at Ashland. Dr. Fares is the author of many publications and patents, and presents nationally and internationally at cosmetic science forums. Dr. Fares chairs the NYSCC Scientific Committee and has won multiple awards in the areas of skincare and polymer chemistry.

n Michael Anthonavage

Michael Anthonavage has 25 years of experience in personal care product development and a career spanning background in skin biology, education, and medical technology. Michael has extensive knowledge in product development in personal care product design and specializes in R&D to marketing translation as well as claims validation both in vitro and in vivo. He is also an engaging public speaker and product technology advocate with an ability to marry complex ideas and concepts to various consumer needs. Michael is currently the Vice-President of Operations and Technology at Eurofins CRL, Inc. as well as an educator in herbal studies, clinical lab interpretation, product development strategies, physiology, and skin biology. Michael’s previous positions have focused on product development for multi-national corporations in consumer products and has held R&D leadership positions at several industry ingredient suppliers where he has championed innovative ingredient portfolios. Michael is currently on the NYSCC Scientific Committee and has given several lectures for the SCC over the years. He has a number of publications and patents to his name and continues to be an influential speaker and educator in the personal care, bioinstrumentation, and skin testing arena.

n Stephanie L. Biagini

Stephanie L. Biagini currently manages Innovation R&D at Mana Products. Innovation in the cosmetics industry is a passion for her, and she specializes in optical effects and commercializing new technologies. She has developed products in various categories, from color to skincare to fine fragrances, and at every level of the industry value chain, from finished goods to contract manufacturing to chemical manufacturing. Stephanie is active in both the CEW and SCC and has published new, exciting discoveries regularly throughout her career. 12

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n Ben Blinder

Mr. Blinder holds a Chemical Engineering degree from Lehigh University and has been an active member of the NYSCC since 1986. Working at the U.S. offices of several multinational companies, he has directly managed domestic and international salespeople and distributors, marketing teams, and technical applications labs in various phases of his career. He has also been active in the search for new technologies and new business partners in the cosmetic industry. He currently works at Gattefossé USA as the Executive Director, Business Operations, leading their two business units in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

n Catherine Chiou, Ph.D.

Dr. Catherine Chiou is a Principal Scientist at L’Oréal in the Cosmetic Application Domain, focusing on developing skin cleansing and makeup removing technologies. Prior to her current position, she worked in the skin care research and innovation lab as a senior formulator, contributing towards development of platform technologies and several global launches of skin care treatment products. She is an inventor for more than twenty U.S. and international patents. Dr. Chiou received her Ph.D. in Bioinorganic Chemistry from University of Minnesota, followed by an NIH postdoctoral fellowship at Harvard University. She has been a member of the NYSCC Scientific Committee since 2021.

n Amber O. Evans, Ph.D.

Dr. Amber Evans is a hair scientist and cosmetic chemist with nearly 15 years of experience in research and innovation. In her current role as Senior Manager of Product Development at Moroccanoil, she leverages her technical expertise to help drive the global launch of prestige hair and body care products. Prior to Moroccanoil, she worked as a development scientist at ingredient supplier BASF, where her contributions spanned multiple personal care market segments. She also previously supported technical hair care initiatives at Procter & Gamble. Dr. Evans holds a Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Sciences (Cosmetic Science focus) and a B.S. in Chemistry.

n Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.

Dr. Roger McMullen has over 25 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, LLC and leads the Material Science team. Roger has over 30 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks. He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition and founded the online news magazine The Cosmetic Chemist. Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University. Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry. He frequently teaches continuing education courses for the SCC and TRI-Princeton. In addition, Roger has been an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University for over 10 years and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing an M.S. degree in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry.

n Mythili Nori

Mythili Nori has worked in the Personal Care industry for over a decade. Her expertise is in product claim substantiation and data science. In her current role at BASF, she is responsible for physical claim substantiation for Hair Care. Prior to joining BASF, she spent five years at TRI-Princeton as a Senior Research Associate, supporting claim substantiation and fundamental research activities for textile and hair surfaces. She earned a Bachelor of Technology in Chemical Engineering from India and received a Master of Science in Chemical Engineering at North Carolina Agriculture and Technical State University focusing on purification of drinking water.

n Yun Shao, Ph.D.

Dr. Yun Shao has been working on raw material innovation for over 25 years and is currently the Vice-President of R&D at Kobo Products, Inc. He has expertise in micro TiO2 and ZnO innovation, and physical sunscreen technology. He is also experienced in pigment surface treatments, pigment grinding, color cosmetics, and global cosmetic ingredient regulations.

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A leading supplier of unique specialty cosmetic ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry

Barnet Products | 201-346-4620 www.barnetproducts.com

NYSCC At Home Live Series

The Four Pillars of Sustainable Beauty By Lorraine Dallmeier (Formula Botanica)

March 2, 2022 • 12:00 – 1:00 p.m.

he beauty sector is one of the world’s most unsustainable industries and, as a result, its business models require a complete overhaul to play its part in the urgent drive towards sustainable development. Join us for a presentation about the four pillars of sustainable beauty delivered by Lorraine Dallmeier, Chartered Environmentalist, Biologist, and award-winning CEO of Formula Botanica, the online organic formulation school. In Lorraine’s webinar, she will demystify the concept of circular beauty (spoiler alert: it’s not just about packaging) and share some controversial views on where the beauty industry should be headed.

Speaker Biography

n Lorraine Dallmeier – CEO, Formula Botanica orraine Dallmeier is the award-winning CEO of Formula Botanica, the online organic cosmetic formulation and business school, which has trained over 14,000 organic cosmetic formulators and indie beauty entrepreneurs in 175+ countries. Voted the most influential person in natural beauty for 2020 and awarded the Digital Achiever of the Year award for the cosmetics industry by Google, Lorraine is on a mission to teach the world to formulate. To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org). 14

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Clean Beauty and Minimalism

Discover sustainable, plant-based solutions for skin, hair, shower, and color cosmetics.

March 30, 2022 5:00 – 8:30 p.m. Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

go.ingredion.com/beauty go.ingredion.com/beauty

he clean beauty movement is growing, and at this opportunistic time, the NYSCC is offering a symposium on Clean Beauty and Minimalism on March 30th at the Chart House in Weehawken, NJ. Clean beauty implies that a product can be used without affecting the health of the consumer, based on its safety and toxicity profile. It also suggests transparency in the labeling of products and simplicity in the inclusion of ingredients. The definition of clean beauty does not necessarily imply the use of natural and organic ingredients, just that the raw materials are safe and have a good toxicological profile. Join us for this intellectually stimulating event to broaden your knowledge of clean beauty and minimalism.

Speaker Biographies

To register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D. – Moderator Giorgio Dell’Acqua is currently the Chief Scientific Officer at Nutrafol. He is also the 2022 Chair of the NYSCC. After obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research. Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 20 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. During his career, he directed R&D, science, and product development at multiple companies. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, has authored more than 80 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, holds 3 patents, and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty, natural ingredients, and sustainability.

n Mallory Goldberg Mallory Goldberg is the Senior Director of Marketing at Glow Recipe, where she leads brand marketing, digital, and product development for the skincare brand. After starting her career in Public Relations for CPG brands, she pivoted to a role in beauty, working for The Estée Lauder Companies and Korres Natural Products.

n Franca Zanovello Franca Zanovello is the founder of Zanovello Consultants, a business development, retail strategy, and brand management company specialized in clean beauty and wellness. For over 20 years, Franca has been growing sales and wholesale expansion across all major trade channels on the diverse U.S. market for both startups as well as emerging to global brands, including Acqua di Parma, Jurlique skincare, Kreyol Essence haircare, Loli skincare, and most recently Foria sexual wellness.

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Shaping tomorrow’s beauty through innovation and formulation expertise Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

Skin and Hair Diversity April, 20, 2022 5:00 - 8:00 p.m. Seasons Washington Township, NJ

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Join us for an intellectually stimulating day chock-full of interesting facts and findings about the world of natural ingredients with respect to personal care products. This event will be held at the alluring Brooklyn Botanic Garden, a serene location connecting attendees with the plant world and fostering a sense of stewardship of the environment. In this first symposium of its kind, the NYSCC will have lectures and interactive sessions that address sustainability, biodiversity, green products, biodegradability, and many other aspects of natural ingredient science. Complimentary bus service will be provided from New Jersey to Brooklyn Botanic Garden. For more information, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) or contact the Event Chair, Roger L. McMullen, at roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu. J anu ar y 20 2 0

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