RESTAURATEURS OF THE YEAR
Sheridan Su and Jenny Wong
From hot plates in a hair salon, Su and Wong have built a small empire on Chinese comfort classics
➽ From humble beginnings, husband and wife restaurateurs Sheridan Su and Jenny Wong have assembled a small culinary empire in and near Downtown. And it couldn’t have happened in a more unlikely manner. After beginning his career on the Strip, six years ago, the 56 | D E S E R T
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classically trained Su was let go as Comme Ça’s executive chef. Faced with a momentous life decision, he did what any reasonable chef would do: He and then-girlfriend Wong opened up Great Bao in a hair salon, doling out bao and other Asian specialties served up from a two-burner hotplate in a closet-size space. The couple only intended for the venture to maintain cash flow while their food truck got up and running. The food truck never materialized, but a cult following did, catching the eye of Eureka Casino owner Greg Lee, who was looking to revamp his East Sahara casino diner. With Su overseeing the
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kitchen and Wong shining at front-of-house, in early 2013 the couple revamped the greasy spoon menu with Asian-American flair, including their now-famous bao, handmade potstickers and savory sesame noodles, along with novel takes on staples such as the Fat Choy Burger and a short-rib grilled cheese. An appearance on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives only bolstered their following. Driven by the success of Fat Choy, the couple pursued a dream: a postage stamp-size joint dishing out Hainan chicken in an aging East Sahara strip mall. Their hope was to break even serving the obscure Asian poached
chicken dish they loved, only to discover everybody else loved it as much as they did. Flock & Fowl put the dish — and the culinary couple — on the map. Their conquests continue: A second Flock & Fowl has just premiered at the Ogden. Su, a gentle giant, and Wong, a wry firecracker, provide the perfect foil for one another. His steady demeanor is perfect for running a kitchen; her bright persona in the dining room gives every meal a touch of familial warmth — a perfect pairing for this cross-cultural comfort food. JB (flockandfowl.com, fatchoylv.com) D E S E R T C O M P A N I O N .V E G A S