Nu View Magazine Presents: 100 Years of Fashion

NuView Merchandising INC X Fashion Society

100 Years of Fashion

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e as the Nu View staff would like to dedicate our first issue to the founder of Nu View Magazine, as well as everyone who came before us. Without you, none of this would even be possible. You provided us with a foundation and a direction for the magazine that will last long after this staff is gone. If it wasn't for you, Nu View would merely be a passing thought, a crazy idea, or a long-shot dream by some creative student. But, because of you, it became all of this. Nu View is an organization for those with a passion for fashion and a desire to learn about a whole other side of an industry. It became a living, breathing "The Bold Type," or Bratz Magazine.

We would also like to dedicate our first print issue of Nu View to the future. The things we've learned here we will carry with us forever, and we hope that the legacy that we leave behind will not only change UNT, but the world!

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WRITERS Katie Biggar | Daniela Chacon | Don Davis | Sarah Delgado | Allison Dibble | Victoria Eidson | Clare Marie Galvan | Peyton Garrett | Charlotte George | Sofia Greaves | Miriam Handel | Armana Haque | Sarah Hogan | Joet Dzvetero Jr | Arianna Melchor | Angelina Oliva | Gina Quatrino | Abigail Alexis Ramirez | Lily Savage | Harmony Thomas | Natalia Zaragoza CONTENT CREATORS Sophie Astronoto | Hope Barnard | Geraldine Castelan | Don Davis | Melissa Do | Catrina Gilbert | Martha Jackson | Amira Linson | Maria Marinho | Raegan Marshall | Angelina Oliva | Saarah Rahman| Kaylani Temple | Megan Whiteside PHOTOGRAPHERS Sophie Astronoto | Ivan Carrillo | Don Davis | Abigail Diaz | Victoria Eidson | Armana Haque | Brooklynn Patterson | Holland Rainwater | Abigail Alexis Ramirez | Tina Tran MODELS Christiana Adeoso | Sidra Ambreen | Christian Bell | Jasmine Brewer | Mariah Brown | Giovanna Cervantes | Daniela Chacon | Chandler Cook | Sarah Delgado | Allison Dibble | Joet Dzvetero Jr | Chelsea Elwood | David Fallgatter | Qeren Fundi | Charlotte George | Emily Gossett | Gretchen Van Hausen | Sarah Hogan | Lucia Holguin | Solace Hughes | Gabby Irawan | Kyri Morris-Jackson | Martha Jackson | Zachary Lane | Danielle Morgan | Charles Mitchell | Lizzy O'Malley | Yarely Parra | Cheyenne Peete | Natalia Perez | Leslie Polett | Bella Philips | Rylee Sage Reed | Gina Quatrino | Abigail Alexis Ramirez | Donye Robinson | Lesley Sanchez | Lily Savage | Lexi Saykosy | Lauryn Taylor | Jada Titus | Tony Vega | Grace Washington | Megan Whiteside | Danielle Zachariah STYLISTS Christiana Adeoso | Jasmine Brewer | Paola Casasola | Daniela Chacon | Chandler Cook | Sarah Delgado | Allison Dibble | Don Davis | Victoria Eidson | David Fallgatter | Charlotte George | Emily Gossett | Sofia Greaves | Armana Haque | Kyri Morris-Jackson | Morgan Jenkins | Alexandra Jones | Mariam Karim | Cara Leathers | Amira Linson | Ivory Miller | Elizabeth Mills | Danielle Morgan | Lizzy O'Malley | Yarely Parra | Natalia Perez | Amber Propp | Saarah Rahman | Abigail Alexis Ramirez | Rylee Sage Reed | Abrar Serniabat | Lauryn Taylor | Kaylani Temple | Grace Washington | Megan Whiteside | Sophia Wong | Danielle Zachariah INFLUENCERS Katie Biggar | Daniela Chacon | Mikayla James | Chelsea King | Amira Linson | Reagan Marshall | Anika Qureshi | Rylee Sage Reed | Lesly Sanchez | Lexi Saykosy | Donye Robinson | Lauryn Taylor | Megan Whiteside 3 | Nu View

Editor in Chief Don Davis Former Co-editor in Chief Sofia Greaves Editor at Large Victoria Eidson Creative Director Saarah Rahman

Alex Jones

Allison Dibble

Angelina Oliva

Model Executive

Merchandising Executive

Artistic Executive

Armana Haque

Daniela Chacon

Rylee Reed

Merchandising Inc. President

Public Relations Executive

Executive Influencer

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Letters Letters from From the The Nu Nu View View Editors Editors For those of you that find fashion shallow and superficial, or insignificantly trivial, Nu View magazine cordially presents you with 100 years of reasons why you’re wrong. The 1900s was a pivotal time for fashion, not only as an industry, but as a concept. Prior to the 20th century, the concept of fashion was limited to discerning social classes – differentiating the haves from the have nots. It wasn’t until the 1900s, specifically the 1920s, that fashion evolved past that. Fashion became a way to spark real change in the world. It’s not an exaggeration to say that beaded dresses and hemlines played a significant role in women having some of the freedoms that we do today. I’m specifically referring to the Flappers. The Flappers were liberated young women who rejected societal norms and the expectation that women are supposed to be subservient to men. They also outright refused the notion that a woman’s only place was in the house raising children.

They were feminists who dared to think that women were equal to men, and they acted like it too. Twentieth century Flappers were very controversial for

many reasons: their “wild” behavior, their “problematic” beliefs, but the main reason was how short their dresses were.

Women in that time period couldn’t wear skirts that preceded their ankles, let alone their knees. A few young women wearing dresses and skirts like that is what started a whole movement and got several conversations started.

Conversations that led to things like the nineteenth amendment. In the 1930s and 40s women demanded to not only be seen, but heard, and some of what they were wearing was shocking. Their new look included wearing pants (scandalous) and a peculiar shade of pink. Moreover, fashion didn’t just attribute to women's equality, it also led to some unlikely inventions. For example, fashion in the Space Age (appropriately) consisted of white and silver hues, two color trends that were the result of advancements in fashion fabric technology. In the 70s, we saw an increase of women in the workplace; broad-shouldered power suits became an office staple so that women would appear more masculine and be taken seriously. Working women used fashion as a political language to

illustrate their expectations of power and position in a professional environment if they were going to be shattering the glass ceiling, they had to wear shoulder pads. We could also partially credit men's fashion in the 80s to jump starting LGBTQ+ rights. The more queer stylings of David Bowie, Prince, and Michael Jackson had a huge influence on the movement. Fast forward almost four decades later and fashion is still sparking change. Throughout this pandemic, wearing masks helped protect us and aided in stopping the spread of the coronavirus, but the fashion industry took it a step further. Masks originally served a utilitarian purpose, but now they are an extension of our outfit and our personality. Wearing a mask became our way to speak without saying a word.

Somewhere along the way they became the hottest new accessory that we can't leave the house without - literally.

Still not convinced on the importance of fashion, keep reading...

Don Davis

Editor-in-Chief

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My Fashion Influence The 2010s were a decade full of growth. I started out not even a teen yet and I ended the decade as an adult. During this tumultuous time, I didn’t just observe style, I lived and experienced most of the subcultures that arose and were highlighted in this decade. The biggest game changer of fashion has been the influence and use of technology to promote and influence diversity.

Social media became our most valuable resource in keeping up with trends, new and old, inspired and innovated. Sometimes fads arose out of them (I was hesitant about neon green and biker shorts last summer).

My first time seeing an athleisure look that I pined for was on Americanstyle's Instagram when I was 16. Ever since then, it has saved me room in my closet. Track pants and a crop top has never looked so chic. From Tumblr, hipsters had the greatest impact on contemporary fashion today. Those indie film loving, anti-popunderground-music-lovers were just as particular about their taste in clothing. They were the ones that wore sustainable clothing before it was cool. They inspired the popularity of iconic apparel like circular eyewear, paper bag pants, thrifted band tees, and the revival of 90s flannel - all pieces that make a solid, stylish, everyday outfit. This style stuck around, but has evolved into what's known as the "art student." The "art student" is seen in bright colors with a one of a kind silhouette from

a thrift store 30 minutes away from their campus’s city. Yes, I am speaking from personal experience.

We can also thank Tumblr for giving us a platform that aided in the resurgence of the 90s and grunge.

Back then, grunge was the anti-fashioners way to be careless, yet still stylish. Now, it is much more accessorized and intentional, but still dark and tonal in color. These were all the styles that dominated the halls of high school from 2014 to 2016.

As an adult, I noticed everyone was less interested in creating new trends, but celebrating old ones. The most authentic way to do that became one of the most popular and sustainable way of building a wardrobe for cheap - thrifting. A necessary means of living for some, is now a resourceful tool for not only college kids with a shopping addiction, but a business tool for second hand shop owners.

Secondhand retailers like Poshmark, ThredUp, and Depop are the platforms that feed into whatever trends are hard to find for cheap, if at all, in a brickand-mortar store.

Like any other decade, this past one had its ups and downs, sartorially speaking. But the most important factors that make fashion iconic don't just stem from runway shows; it's what influences them.

Sofia Greaves

Here's To Change

Former Co-Editor in Chief

Fashion is more than what you wear. Fashion is more than what society dictates. Fashion, my dear, is yours to have and to hold. As we take you on a journey through the decades in the following pages, our hope is to educate and inspire. You may be surprised at what you did not know.

All of us here at Nu View agree that the past foresees the future. Within these two covers you'll find that time and time again, molds of the past were broken and the trends of the future emerged. There is no doubt that this is what will continue on for years to come. Our hope lies in the power of our past and the pending power of the future. There is no mold that cannot be broken!

Together, each taking fashion as our own, we can change the world. We can change people's perceptions. We can even change our own.

Here's to change, one outfit at a time.

"Fashion, my dear, is yours to have and to hold"

Victoria Eidson Editor at Large

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CONTENTS

20S

Flappers Prohibition The Jazz Age Art Deco The Great Gatsby Edwardian Period

PAGE 9

30S

Old Hollywood The Godfather Elsa Schiaparelli Lingerie Children's Wear Women in Pants

PAGE 21

40S

The New Look Bergdorf Goodman Chanel Paris Crossword Puzzle

PAGE 33

50S

Idea of Perfection Balenciaga Jenna Critchlow Varsity Jackets James Dean Elvis Marilyn Monroe

PAGE 44

60S

A New Era The Mini Skirt The Space Age Twiggy Audrey Hepburn Yves Saint Laurent

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70S

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The 70's Trippy Hippy Black Panther Disco Daze Vivienne Westwood

CONTENTS

80S Queer Fashion in the Music Industry Punk London

PAGE 77

90S

90's Party Grunge Chicano Femme Fatale Gucci Marc Jacobs Spice Girls Versace

PAGE 89

2000S

New Millenium 2000's Quiz Bratz Clueless Neon Lights

PAGE 101

2010S

Street Style Off-White Unisex Visible Logos Millenial Trends Minimalism

PAGE 111

2020S Make History The Nu Modesty

PAGE 125 MODELS PAGE 1

LEFT TO RIGHT

Chelsea Elwood, Gabby Irawan, Rylee Sage Reed, Mikayla James, Mary Gamboa, Mario Esteban Barboza Chiquito, Natalia Perez, Giovanna Cervantes, Charlotte George, Ruth Kazadi

MODELS PAGE 2

LEFT TO RIGHT

Danielle Zachariah, Allison Dibble, Victoria Eidson, Alexandra Jones, Rylee Sage Reed, Donye Robinson, Sarah Delgado, Abigail Alexis Ramirez, Megan Whiteside, Daniel Mendoza, David Fallgatter, Chandler Cook, Joet Dzvetero Jr.

PHOTOGRAPHERS PAGE 1

PHOTOGRAPHERS PAGE 2

Victoria Eidson, Tina Tran, Abigail Alexis Ramirez, Mikayla James, Hannah Perez

Victoria Eidson, Abigail Alexis Ramirez, Qeren Fundi, Don Davis, Holland Rainwater, Sophie Astronoto

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NU VIEW PRESENTS:

THE AGE OF THE FLAPPERS 9 | Nu View

The Dawn of the Age of Flappers The Jazz Age was immaculate. The nineteen twenties gave all new meaning to the word lavish and defined sophisticated disobedience. Flappers, some of the most iconic women from whom an entire style of dress was named after, were a generation of young western women who wore short skirts, bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and flaunted their contempt for what was then considered acceptable behavior. They were labeled “audacious” and “brash” for their excessive makeup, smoking cigarettes in public, drinking alcohol, driving cars, treating sex in a casual manner, and scoffing at social and sexual norms. The Flappers were infamous in the Roaring Twenties, everything they stood for received a lot of criticism from the more conservative members of society - the older generations.

They resented the way Flappers constantly paraded their nearly naked bodies (wearing a fitted dress that stopped just before the knees) and condemned them as “crude,” “flippant,” “reckless,” and “unintelligent.” However, in today’s time, Flappers are now considered the first generation of independent American women. They were the spark that lit the women’s liberation movement and ultimately led to more women’s rights. They were advocates for social change and they fought for the right to higher education; many women as a result became doctors, lawyers, and engineers. For the first time in history, women were free to pursue their dreams and were no longer confined by domestic roles. Flappers were trailblazers that knocked down the economic and political barriers that oppressed women. They were known for their energetic freedom and embracing a lifestyle viewed by many as outrageous, immoral, and downright dangerous.

Flapper feminism rejected the idea that women should uphold society's morals through temperance and chastity.

They paved the way for sexual freedoms for women through fashion and by devising their own standards of beauty. In the twenties, Flapper girls would apply blush to their kneecaps to draw attention to that part of their bodies, which was frowned upon to even reveal at the time, let alone call that kind of attention to. Not only did knee rouge create a “look at me” effect below the waistline, but it also brought a healthy glow to an unusual area and alluded to other sexual activities that were forbidden for women to discuss in a public setting.

The very first Flapper’s name was Zelda Fitzgerald, and she was the embodiment of a little-party-never-killednobody. It was as if she invented the term shameless. She wore flesh-colored bathing suits to fuel rumors that she swam naked just because she liked the attention. She was the real-life Daisy Buchanan, the empress of the Jazz Age. Zelda was the primary influence of fashion in the 1920s; the beaded dresses, the pearls, every garment a womanowned containing glitter, that was all her. Zelda set the standard that a woman should do two things: flaunt their wealth and never leave the house without red lipstick and a cigarette. In the early years of the 20th century, a cigarette was not just a cigarette, it was an accessory that women used to exude masculinity. Men got respect because they had a penis, well now women did too – the cigarette.

Flappers in the 1920s coveted materialism, they were the ultimate consumers. To them, shopping was a form of entertainment and recreation, money was no object, it came and went. Zelda was the epitome of the Roaring Twenties with her flippant spending, unapologetic drinking, short hair, and even shorter skirts. After her husband’s success, she made a name for herself as his charismatic muse. She made her way through the most exclusive social circles in New York, and then later, Paris. Zelda had embodied everything that the fabled Gatsby era promised: defiance, recklessness, and above all... glamour.

Written by: Don Davis Stylist: Dannie Chacon Photographer: Victoria Eidson Models: Chelsea Elwood, Alexandra Jones, and Gabby Irawan Clothing provided by Les Muses Vintage

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Slang, Speakeasies, & The Prohibition Writer: Katie Biggar Spread Designer: Don Davis Photographer: Victoria Eidson Models: Alexandra Jones, Gabby Irawan, Chelsea Elwood Stylist: Daniela Chacon Clothing provided by Les Muses Vintage

T

he 1920s opened a new door in the ever-changing world of fashion.

As prohibition was afoot in America, illicit establishments that secretly sold alcohol called speakeasies were slowly altering fashion trends. Until the 1920s, women wore restrictive clothing and corsets. Despite valuing comfortability and practicality, fitted pieces were favored since they made women look poised and elegant. Once speakeasies gained popularity, women began to trade in their corsets for higher hemlines and cloche hats. Speakeasies were

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home to several women who were passionate about the women’s suffrage movement. These women used their femininity and seemingly carefree character as a way to alter gender roles for women. The women who were behind this movement were known as Flappers, fashionable young women intent on enjoying themselves and defying conventional standards of behavior based on gender. Flappers were commonly known to wear short, flowy dresses and sexy heels.

Although a majority of them did dress like this, there were also many

Flappers who were inspired by menswear. Flapper fashion did not appear out of nowhere. It arose as a result of gradual social and cultural transformations. Throughout this time, youth and beauty were highly prized assets. For the first time, women were advertised to in massive quantities, resulting in increased sales of cosmetics and perfumes. The 20s also introduced new fads for menswear. During the Roaring Twenties, menswear remained traditional with slight modifications. Suiting became very popular, and with the rise of retail

stores and catalogs, the suit became a staple, not only in cities, but also in more idyllic locations, propelled by the American dream. The Conservative Suit was prevalent at the beginning of the twentieth century. The suit was easily identified by its jacket, which was tailored tightly with a high waist and narrow shoulders to achieve a thin silhouette. Skinny trousers and jackets with pinched waistlines and small lapels were also staple pieces at the time. Nevertheless, in the late 1920s, men began to favor the shorter tuxedo jacket over the traditional tailcoat, which was quickly considered out of style. During the 1920s, fedora hats were also very popular among men. The fedora, which was initially made for women, became a popular style for men when famous gangsters such as Al Capone adopted it. The 20s were very important in regards to slang. The use of slang words became heavily prominent during this time since it was the Jazz Age as well. The Jazz scene was highly influential in the use of slang and new favertical stripes trimmed in white piping, shion trends. Jazz bands were often sighted at rickrack, and ruffles. Most house dresses speakeasies where new styles and people from were detailed with large front pockets, all walks of life were welcomed. Words which made it more practical while in the such as dincher, meaning a half-smoked kitchen. When women left the house to cigarette, and weed, meaning a flapper who run errands or to visit with a friend, they enjoys taking risks, became common at often wore a matching two-piece suit or speakeasies. Since speakeasies made it layered a jacket over a solid colored dress. simple for certain groups of people to It is very rare to find photos of women from gather and talk freely, they ended up making the 20s in casual attire since it was just up slang to better relate to those whom they becoming more acceptable for women to even surrounded themselves with. Other trends that dress in sport attire. "Sports clothing" was worn by were prevalent in the 20s were wool sweaters youthful “new women” who were involved in fitness, and loose-fitted silk dresses. The wool sweaters outdoor activities, and even working in those were popular in navy and maroon with wide Hollywood movie sets. Long pants were unusual collars or buttons down the front. The all-wool until 1929 when the Asian-inspired "lounge pajama" sweater had pockets knitted in, making it ideal or "beach pajama" made them fashionable to wear for year-round sports. Pockets were sewn onto at home or on holiday. Before the 1920s, women the less costly models. It had double-knit shawl tended to wear lace-up boots, as they were formal collars and was buttoned up to the bust. A fur at the time. The rise of Oxford shoes and low heels collar was sewn onto more costly editions. Dresses changed the way women viewed fashion at the time. that were favored during the 20s were typically Being able to expose their feet made the transition to thin, loose silk dresses with a thin belt around the waist higher hemlines and showing more skin in general, and tasteful colored embroidery on the chest. The way more acceptable. The 20s were a pivotal decade hemline swung up and down, and some women for the fashion industry as it encouraged positive embraced showing off their legs while others did not. change and included women. Many staple pieces that Designers, thankfully, catered to a wide range of tastes many of us have in our closest today are there because in the 1920s. Women in the 20s had specific dresses of the events that occurred in the 1920s. Speakeasies, that they wore around their homes as they tackled their slang words, and the women’s suffrage movement all daily tasks. These dresses were made up in cheerful played a huge role in regards to fashion development small cotton prints, gingham checks, plaid, and the freedom of expression. and

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THE JAZZ AGE

Model: Alexandra Jones

"A little party never killed nobody, right here right now is all we got” - (Fergie, 2013). The latter simply describes the American Dream, a famous theme in the Jazz Age. It was the ultimate fantasy of discovery, individualism, and finding one’s happiness in a time of exorbitant excess. Tragically, easy money and wishy-washy social values have plundered the dream. Thank God it wasn’t all bad since champagne-doused house parties and dancing helped wash it all away. Otherwise known as the “Roaring Twenties”, or “Age of Jazz”, the Jazz Age took place from 1918-1929. It’s named all these things because this was when jazz itself was not only invented, but grew wildly popular. One might say, it was the “golden age” of jazz. Younger generations fell in love with the upbeat, cool vibe of its sound, which often was made up on the spot. On the other hand, older generations stuck their noses up at its seemingly immoral, reckless message. All things aside, let’s take a glamorized look at a few key aspects of the 1920’s Jazz Age. Prohibition. The kind that’s on alcohol. IN THE ’20s!...I think you know where this is going to go. Prohibition, or “National Prohibition,” refers to the period between 1919 and 1933 when alcohol was illegal. In this era, the production, distribution, and sale of alcohol was illegal throughout the entire U.S. This led to the opening of secret bars also known as “speakeasies.” You may have seen them in movies like The Great Gatsby (my personal favorite), Midnight in Paris, Lawless, or Chicago.

Model: Chelsea Elwood

which allowed women to vote. The early feminism movement also spurred changes in the current fashion world. World War I was one cause. Young women at the time wanted nothing more than to break free by being independent and contributing to the economy. At the start of the decade, women replaced the corset with loose, hip-level waistline dresses. Everything was about simplicity and movement. Fabrics also became lighter with the use of chiffons, silks, velvets, and different kinds of cotton. Also, hemlines were shorter than conservatives at the time could never imagine.

ABOVE THE KNEE, above the rules. God knows how hard the athletic dances would have been with voluptuous ball gowns or neck-itching turtlenecks.

Fashion in this time was a physical manifestation of the shift from the socially silenced woman to the active, socially outspoken type. One master of this is none other than style icon Coco Chanel herself.

She revolutionized fashion by incorporating pants for women, loose jersey fabrics, and her strings of pearls.

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These bars popped up all over the country, especially in urban cities. In order to enter the secret establishment, patrons had to recite a password. Once in, Charleston-dancing and champagne dousing inevitably occurred. And I mean ALL. NIGHT. LONG. Not to mention the internal satisfaction at the end of the night.

Dancing in these ever-so-popular speakeasies were “Flappers,” a term that referred to young, independent women who defied traditional norms of the conservative 1910s by engaging in activities like drinking, dancing, and other shenanigans.

Feminism is a big deal now and back then. You see before the 1920s, these shenanigans were only done by men. And might I say, Flappers made some pretty “scandalous” fashion choices.

These women wore gaudy jewelry and bobbed hair.

And get this… their dresses went to the knee instead of to the floor! Love that for them.

Feminism was the major element of the Jazz era that eventually led to the passage of the 19th amendment,

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BY MIRIAM HANDEL

ART DECO In the 1920s, Art Deco was taking the country by storm, not only in terms of art and architecture but in inspiring how people were styled and wanted to dress. This period in America, often known as “The Jazz Age”, was a time where Flappers and avant-garde were in, and modesty and simplistic style were out. More often than not, the pieces that women wore were very streamlined in form and shape, but colorful and over the top in color and pattern. The typical Flapper style of the 1920s remained popular, but it was combined with a more “exotic” influence, brought about by the arrival of Serge Diaghilev and his Russian ballets in Paris. This was a shocking new addition to the Paris art and fashion scene, and it led to fabrics with bright oranges, deep blues, and greens to become commonplace during the Art Deco era. This style was also heavily guided by the art movement known as Cubism, which was made up of mostly geometric designs. It’s possible that the Art Deco era of fashion wouldn’t have occurred if there wasn’t such a need for lavishness and extreme festivity between people.

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Model: Gabby Irawan

The Great Gatsby

The Roaring Twenties &

The Great Gatsby Article written by Joet Dzvetero Jr,

The Great Gatsby fashion is representative of one of the greatest and most unique fashion trends of an era. Taking place in the roaring twenties, a decade of economic prosperity in the 1920s. It was an era of social, artistic, and cultural dynamism. Lavish parties, expensive social gatherings, and some of the most distinctive fashion trends of any time prior. Dressing up was an integral and key part of these social gatherings and how they played out. Most would take and put together every piece of clothing in their possession to create presentable, glamorous, and lavish outfits. This made for an extensive selection to choose from, and so long as it was in line with the trend of the era there was no running out of ideas.

The Great Gatsby portrayed the height of such an era, it primarily focused on the glamor of the party scene. From the distinct and daring sleeveless cocktail dresses which took high confidence to pull off, to the popular necklines featured in women’s fashion. The dangerous yet classy low V neckline. The not very modest decorative accessories elements of the dazzling and expensive-looking earrings, necklaces, pins, and helms to accentuate the dresses. The Flapper girl look was also one of the most iconic looks within The Great Gatsby, unforgettable, timeless, eccentric. So much so that the twenties would forever be known as the decade of the Flappers.

The Flapper dresses, aiming to show as much skin as possible, were made to be loose, yet also glamorous, which should the youthful and spirited style of leaving of the ’20s. The common Flapper dress was composed of loosefitting slip-overs with either long or short sleeves, and cut just below the knee, with belts accentuating the low waist (drop waist). It was primarily meant for the thin and young youths! And with these fancy dresses, the Gatsby women wore natural makeup with unique hairstyles. All of which paired with a variety of shoes, which didn’t require as much attention.

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Ed

od

an Pe i d r a ri w

Society Papers Hedonistic Styles Left Over from King Edward VII The Edwardian era, named after Britain’s King Edward VII, opened a new world of women’s fashion based on extravagance and luxury.

Inspired by the lavish lifestyle of King Edward VII and the cultural elite, women of the time tried to emulate nobility through fashion. Most notably, the S-shaped female silhouette became a hallmark of the period. Rather than focus on an hourglass figure, the S curve provided a distinct look by pushing back the hips and bringing the bust forward. The look often said to resemble that of a large breasted pigeon, set the stage for early 1900s female fashion. The period boasted floor-length skirts that flared outward, free-flowing gowns, and revolutionary dress styles. The “nobility look” was the name of the game. Square necklines and cap sleeves added to the elegance of popular dress styles. Edwardian Era fashion differed from previous Victorian styles in that Edwardian gowns were more lightweight and breathable, rather than the restrictive garments of the past. These gowns

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instead featured relaxed fits and an unstructured feminine design. However, what these gowns lacked in structure and restrictiveness, they made up for in extravagance and elegance. Ruffles, bows, and other womanly details became wildly popular. There were different variations in gowns and dresses depending on the occasion. Evening gowns were even more extravagant and featured sweetheart or square necklines as this period paid special attention to highlighting the collarbone.

Gowns were ornate and detailed but still managed an effortless and simplistic look. Moving into accessories and footwear, lace-up boots and widebrimmed hats became staples for Edwardian women. Hats were often trimmed with feathers and plumage. Colors of the era included an array of pastels including pinks, blues, greens, and gauzy whites. Whatever the occasion may be, women of this time re-imagined luxury and richness, unlike anything we had ever seen before.

Written by: Sarah Hogan

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1930S The 1930s was an era of feminine romance. The fashion was influenced by America’s complete captivation of the silver screen and beautiful stars who wore luxurious lace, sensual silks, and backless bias-cut gowns. Women in those times were inspired by the contemporary ‘30s lady and “escapism,” a style based on glitz, glamour, and provocative mystery.

Even though not every woman was wearing the famous designers of that time: a Coco Chanel knit suit, an Elsa Schiaparelli hat, a Madeleine Vionnet bias cut dress, or a Madame Gres Grecian-style pleated dress, they were still the styles that graced the pages of Vogue and the runways of Paris. Those looks and designers inspired what is now known as the trickle-down effect and influenced the trends worn by the masses. The modern ’30s woman was wearing a crepe-silk dress paired with laced, oxford shoes and an attention-grabbing hat perfectly tilted upon her head. They never left the house without ruffles, costume jewelry, a cape or a cloak, and of course, something in shocking pink!

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Written by: Don Davis Photographer: Tina Tran Stylist: Rylee Sage Reed Model: Rylee Sage Reed

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OLD HOLLYWOOD AND THE 1930S Page Layout by: Don Davis

Written by: Armana Haque

The 1930s was the turning point in beauty and fashion. From modest dresses, shapeless silhouettes, and toned color palettes, to sequin dresses, body-con fashion, and chic-glamour everything, the '30s had it all. This decade was also when Hollywood advanced in the film and radio industries. New romance films, comedies, western films, musicals, and podcasts were coming out left and right, yet this decade’s prosperity is often overlooked because of the Great Depression. We had history-making legends that came out of this decade such as Marilyn Monroe’s rising popularity. As a female actress in the 1930s, she was considered much curvier compared to other actresses at this time, but she left her mark in history as being known as “the sexiest women of all time” and won three Golden Globe Awards. The entertainment and technological advancements that occurred in this decade brought along Hollywood fashion glam that became the marking point in classic, red-carpet fashion today.

Hollywood Glam is where the classic, red carpet, elegant fashion was born, and is still seen today by celebrities during world-renowned awards shows like the Oscars, the Grammys, and the Golden Globe awards. The fashion usually includes fine, expensive jewelry, and sleek, body contouring, floor-length dresses.

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HOLL

THE ART OF FASHION Very open necklines and spaghetti straps were the most popular fashion trend at the time because of the classy, natural look they had on the body. Fashion was all about focusing on the beauty of a female figure. The same “female hourglass figure” fashion concept was there during the late 1800s Europe.

Hollywood glam took a twist on it to where instead of using layers upon layers of clothing to create the perfect bodice like in the past, the trend was to make dresses look as simple, seamless, and elegant as possible.

Many female actresses and models in this era created the classic fashion trends that gave society the vision we imagine as 1930s Hollywood Glam today. The classic, curly, blonde bob that Daisy pulled off in the “Great Gatsby” was one of the most popular and iconic hairstyles from the 1920s-1930s. Bette Davis, Jean Harlow, Ginger Rogers, and Marilyn Monroe were all famous for wearing this exact hairstyle in front of the camera and being known for their classic Hollywood appearance.

Those same “Hollywood curls” are coming back in trend and are done in various shapes and colors now. Today, you’ll see them on long hair, dark or light-colored hair, and even baby hair details on the face as well. The hairstyle trend transformed to where people will even do the look like an everyday look for casual outings and into a style worn during fancy occasions.

During special evening ballroom events that are a big part of our culture today, like prom are times when people will incorporate all the classic Hollywood red carpet styles with the floor-length gowns with shiny patterns and embellishments, and the sleeveless or spaghetti strap sleeves.

YWOOD The 1930s glam is a decade that is often overlooked, considering how classic fashion is from this decade, and how we still incorporate these styles today. It’s because of the glitz and glamour of Hollywood that our perception of celebrities and artists today is of fashion icons as well. We’ve advanced much farther in the film and radio/television industry since then as well, but the ‘30s were still the starting point for many of the new and exciting developments in fashion and entertainment we enjoy today.

Nu View | 24

The Rise of Organized Crime

& THE GOD-FATHER LOOK Written by: Sarah Hogan

The 18th Amendment marked a fateful time that unintentionally fostered the greatest organized crime effort in American history. In 1919, the political elite paved the way for prohibition, outlawing all forms of alcohol. As many Americans grew angry over the new legislation, citizens turned to alternate routes of gaining the booze they so desperately desired. And with that, came the age of organized crime. The nationwide ban resulted in an intricate network of mobsters and corrupt politicians. The gangsters intimidated opposing candidates and funneled votes to the politicians who then turned a blind eye to the crimes of the mobsters. This cycle promoted bootlegging and an incredibly, organized crime effort. To maintain their criminal status, mobs had to hire lawyers and accountants to launder the millions. They had to make strategic decisions and partnerships with neighboring gangs and make investment decisions.

25 | Nu View

M E Ns FASHION

The gangsters essentially had to become businessmen. And with that came the business-like fashion that we so closely associate with mobsters of the time. Gangsters wore the uniform of the typical businessman to emphasize that they were in the same league as the politicians and bosses running the corporations. Men of the time sported well-tailored suits and business attire. Dark grey chalk stripe suits (thicker than the common pinstripe) and fine silk fabrics were popular during the era. Matching vests and pants, fedora hats with contrasting ties were also worn. Don’t forget the infamous cigar! The attire was largely classy and clean-cut. Single- or double-breasted suit jackets with wide lapels were staples of mobster attire.

More casual day meetings called for plaid, brown, or even tweed. These colors were also seen on lower-ranking gangsters. Pants were largely highwaisted with flat fronts. Shortly after, pleats were introduced. The decade began with narrow-fit pants but morphed into wide by the end. Outerwear consisted of dark, heavy wool overcoats. These plain staple pieces sported simple notch lapels and one- or two-button closures. These coats added to the threatening and ominous look that we associate with the decade. Diving into accessories, gangster men preferred the classic fedora rather than the bowler hats popular during the period. These white or black hats were of distinct style and stood out among the crowd. The contrast was important when choosing a tie. Wide striped and patterned ties were very common. Additionally, mobsters wore suspenders and spectator shoes. Shoes were often black or brown, sometimes with white spots.

Pocket squares adorned suit jackets, watch chains dangled from vests, and gold-handled canes helped shape the gangster persona we know today. Adding to the clean-cut, business look most men chose to stay clean-shaven, but occasionally some men had a small mustache. We see these styles throughout Hollywood in classic films such as The Godfather, Scarface, or The Untouchables. Popular culture emphasizes the fashion statements of the mob and almost romanticizes prohibition’s criminals.

Whether the crime masters of the time knew it or not, they created an astounding impact on 1920s fashion and pop culture for ages to come.

Nu View | 26

Old Hollywood Glamour, The New Look, and The 30s 27 | Nu View

18

ELSA SCHIAPARELLI In the best way possible, Elsa Schiaparelli made weird things beautiful. She added insects, clown prints, and clown shoes worn as hats.

She made women and men feel comfortable with the uncomfortable.

She always made top hits in the ’30s for such things. I mean, she was right up there with designers like Coco Chanel but just wasn’t talked about in the same way. Many of her designs were almost prohibited by the media and government for being so shocking.

Modern designers have mustered the courage to be inspired by this Bellatrix Lestrange (Harry Potter villain) of a woman.

To start, let’s talk about her designs in general. They were reminiscent of the outside world, yes, but also practical. Schiaparelli used plastic zippers and synthetic fabrics to create things that made women feel comfortable. She also used built-in cups to make the first swimsuit with padding.

I mean these are just classic beachwear staples. They’re fun, practical, feminine, you get the deal. I can now see why so many women fought to be able to buy them in stores.

There’s nothing bad I can say about her swimwear. Especially since the lines on the ones above do a really good job of defining the female figure by giving the illusion of a smaller waist with a wider hip and bust. As a good friend of hers wrote, “Her clothes were smart, wearable, and sexy, and marked the wearer as an individualist as well as someone with a sense of humor”.

Enough said.

Nu View | 28

Written by: Charlotte George Photographer: Tina Tran Model: Rylee Sage Reed

We can’t lie, Elsa had a massive influence on fashion.

For one, she made other designers feel freer in being super unique and risk-taking.

For example, in the S/S 21 Versace show early this March, the collection was ocean-themed. Not in color really, more in that the designs had starfish, seahorses, and other fish blown up big on them.

Donatella Versace herself said in a Vogue Runway article that “I wanted to do something disruptive and to break the rules because I think that, what worked a few months ago, does

29 | Nu View

not make any sense today." She is known for breaking the rules hands-down, but this is the first time it’s animal-related which takes more guts than going Malibu Barbie.

Anyway, Schiaparelli didn’t just influence designers. She also brought about a new way of thinking, also known as “anything goes” that is said to have influenced not only Yves Saint Laurent but also the masses. She proved her invention of the phrase itself with her above creations and later popularized going against the status quo and being yourself.

A dress has no life of its own unless it is worn, and as soon as this happens another personality takes over from you and animates it, or tries to, glorifies or destroys it, or makes it into a song of beauty.

ELSA SCHIAPRRELLI

Lingerie BY

CLARE

GALVAN

From the brand Fay-Miss in the 1930s to Fenty in the modern century, lingerie has changed in so many ways. The 1930s took new shapes and ran! Finally, underwear became more inclusive for other body types in this decade. Essentials like the chemise, soft wireless bras, and tap pants were the stars of the show in the lingerie game of the ‘30s. The brasserie or newly nicknamed, “bra”, rose in simplicity and practicality. As we know, the bra has changed so much over the decades. Today we see so many different cuts from balconette to the bralette, and bandeau to bullet. The ‘30s time was also when the cup sizing we know now was introduced. Even though they weren’t quite using cups in bras yet, this new “cup” measurement system was rarely used and only among a few. Catalog companies still used small, medium, and large when sizing undergarments. With no wire for bras at this time, for extra support and stability, they stacked up on fabric! In comparison to the ‘20s silhouette, a boyish look with flat profiles and rectangular shapes, the ‘30s brought more curves.

Originally, chemises were used in a similar way that slips are but were more common for sleepwear. These pieces are loose on the chest area, tight around the hips, and loose again past fingertip length. You may have seen chemise’s in streetwear recently and not know the name for them! Today, the chemise is seen in layering. To add a fun, hot, element to an outfit, someone might add one over a mock neck and add a few stacked necklaces. This garment made the silhouette of an outfit look very standard and even below the waist, which was the goal during this era. This was done to bring attention to the bust and shoulder area.

Another garment that has to be talked about when mentioning lingerie of the 1930s is step-ins. These are also known as “french knickers” and “tap pants”. From far away, one might think that step-ins are a half-slip (similar to a regular slip but only the bottom skirt half of the piece). These “tap pants” are shorts, commonly made from a silk or satin material, that were free-flowing and allowed lots of movement.

Some women in show business would use tap pants to, you guessed it, practice tap dancing. When not used for dance rehearsal, they were also used in the same way a slip is because of their fitted waistline and flared leg.

Looking back at it now, the 30s have had a huge influence on what we see in lingerie today. Even without wires, we still see bras with support. Even without it being “under” garments, we still see the chemise, and who is to say if slip-ins could be the next best thing this summer! With fashion constantly changing in all aspects, I think it’s time we start appreciating the things less seen, and that starts with lingerie.

Photographer: Abigail Alexis Ramirez Model: Giovanna Cervantes

NU VIEW MAGAZINE

SHIRLEY

TEMPLE,

BETTY

BOOP

&

WALT

DISNEY,

CHILDREN'S

FASHION Written by: Katie Biggar

As the Great Depression was underway in America, mothers had a hard time finding clothing pieces for their children that were affordable yet fashionable. Several children wore handcrafted clothes or garments from catalogs. Mothers also made children's clothing from other materials, such as flour and feed sacks, during the Great Depression. These pieces may have been one-of-a-kind and Model: Rosan Moran Photographer: Abigail Alexis Ramirez

possibly well-worn, but many were styled to suit current fads.

As for boys, their trouser hemlines also dropped as they

The ornate dresses worn by

The suits consisted of shorts with a long-sleeve button-

young film stars Shirley Temple, Princess Elizabeth, and Margaret set the stage for girls' wear. Puffy-sleeved dresses with rounded collars were embellished. Young girls had high hemlines, while older girls had hemlines that fell below the knee. White anklehigh socks topped with black or brown Mary Jane dress shoes were often seen on little girls.

31 | Nu View

matured in age. “Buster suits” were worn by young boys. down. Suspenders were often worn with buster suits during the 30s as both a belt and a fashion statement. As boys got older they began to wear trousers with flannel button-downs and a tie around their neck. During the winter months, this outfit was topped with a knit sweater or a coat made by the mother.

The Great Depression, although a tough time in America’s history, allowed women to master the art of sewing and get creative with their materials. Women began to experiment with their own fashion styles during this time since they were often their familys' personal fashion designers.

Women... Wearing Pants...

Groundbreaking Written by: Armana Haque

It wasn’t long ago that women wearing anything other than skirts and dresses were considered a very bold fashion statement to wear in public.

Fashion was one of the first stepping stones that women took to be treated as equals to men in society, and women wearing pants was one of the ways they chose to break the norm.

The movement began when women had many complaints about wearing skirts all the time in the late 1920s and early ’30s. Young girls would complain that they always had to worry about the positions of their legs when they were sitting or walking and that there wasn’t much protection from the cold during the winter. The most popular and well-known reason for women changing from skirts to pants was for those interested in horseback riding sports. For anyone who has ridden a horse before knows that wearing a skirt is not possible to attempt to even get on a horse.

The women’s fight for pants before they became socially acceptable started way back during the 18th and 19h centuries in Europe and the United States. Women would be sent to prison for wearing pants because they would be accused of impersonating a man. Women would dress up as men during this period by wearing suits and uniforms to join the workforce or join the military. Women were not only trying to fight for something simple as wearing pants, but also trying to gain equality in a society that allowed them to pursue careers and passions that they always wanted to do but were denied access to.

Photographer: Sophie Astronoto Model & Stylist: Leslie Polett Page Layout Designer: Don Davis Nu View | 32

9 A New Look and A New WARdrobe

1 33 | Nu View

Plato once said that “necessity is the mother of all truly great inventions,” what he meant by that is difficult times and hardships can sometimes birth some novel or ingenious solutions. The 1940s is proof. Ever since the stock market crash of 1929 and the severe economic depression that followed for most of the 1930s, fashion had been a form of escapism. Men and women looked toward their silver screens to escape their difficult daily lives and imagined a carefree and glamorous life in Hollywood. As a result, the 1930s will forever be remembered for its glamour, despite the depression.

The starlets of the old-Hollywood movies were clothed in long, draping, flowing gowns made of the finest satins, crepes, silks, and velvets. The fashion of this era was not only limited to the clothing worn by movie stars on set, but off set as well. The real starlets dressed as if they never left the screen. Popular silver screen silhouettes included the bias cut gown, a dress that was cut diagonally, allotting it to cling to a woman’s figure, and men’s wide shoulder suits. Dresses with a bias cut were modest, yet feminine, while men’s shoulder suits eluded to the masculine physique underneath. In addition, rich furs, white paste or costume jewelry, and coordinated accessories, made the wearer look like a million bucks, and in this period looking like the top one percent was the goal. Wearing your wealth in a particularly gaudy and obnoxious way had been an emerging trend in the late 1920s. In the 30s this trend became even more popularized, but since hardly anyone had any wealth left to display due to the depression, fashion was used to fake it. It was not an accurate representation of real life, but a dream. In the 1940s we saw a dramatic change. WWII began in 1939 and fashion took on a whole new role. Men’s fashion was halted and completely stopped progressing until after the war was over, and women’s fashion went from being glamorously-feminine, to echoing boring men’s fashion. Everything was man-tailored, including the dresses, women’s coats were boxy and oversized, and hats lacked any sort of flare, at least in the early 40s. These new more serious looks were not about an idealized life anymore like in the 1930s, it was about supporting the war efforts through fashion. A woman’s duty was to take care of the home front, both in her

Written by: Don Davis

4

household and in jobs previously occupied by men. The clothing of the decade reflected this practical and conservative time because fabrics and materials normally used to make clothing was heavily rationed during the war. Wool was used to make uniforms and coats for the soldiers, and leather was needed for their boots. Silk, normally used to make dresses, undergarments, and stockings, was turned into parachutes and waterproof maps. Metal and various chemicals were needed to make just about everything else. This high level of rationing continued even after the war ended in 1945. It took until the very end of the decade for women to adopt Dior’s New Look, which returned women to an ultra-feminine silhouette, and for men to adopt a more relaxed fit. During the war times, men only wore uniforms and occasionally a suit. However, not the infamous zoot suit. Before 1945, if a man were to wear a zoot suit he would be beaten pretty severely. Zoot suits were seen as offensive and unpatriotic, not only did they require a lot of material to make, they also wasted a lot of fabric during production.

Ironically, a few short years later, zoot suits were all the rage of men’s fashion.

Prior to World War II, Paris was the epicenter of fashion; all of the new styles originated there. Anonymous American designers simply copied the looks coming from France for their wealthy clientele and retail department stores. However, after Germany’s occupation of Paris in the 40s, most of the designers closed down their fashion houses, and many fled the country. Those that did stay would never again see their styles adopted by Americans and American designers. For the remainder of the decade, World War II completely cut off any form of communication between the two fashion continents.

Communication was even limited between the countries within Europe and the territories within the United States.

But, this ended up being a good thing. With the rest of the world left to decide what fashion was for themselves and come up with their styles for the first time in the 20th century, we saw many different interpretations of fashion throughout the world and different cultures being expressed through fashion as well. Also, with the decline of Paris fashion thanks to World War II, New York was able to fill a void within the fashion industry and became the highly influential fashion capital it is today.

0

Nu View | 34

The

NEW LOOK CHRISTIAN

DIOR

Written by: Daniela Chacon Clothing provided by Les Muses Vintage Photography and Page Layout by: Don Davis

The New Look. Every decade has brought out “New Looks”, but what exactly is the original New Look? Not the trend of the moment, but rather to the huge impact that occurred in fashion. The early 1940s was a time in fashion for sheath dress in which designers were starting to visibly shorten bottom/skirt to above the ankle length. There will always be huge impacts in regards to fashion, especially when speaking about the world’s tranquility or crisis.

This impact is involving the economy, environment, and/or foreign relationship issues. These are huge factors for what the next step in ready-to-wear or couture fashion expects. Precisely to the 1940’s decade, fashion was extremely influenced by the postwar life within the first few years. Due to postwar life, society was seeking change and excitement. The world wanted to finally leave those years behind. Christian Dior took that into big consideration with the designs on his first fashion collection in 1947. Christian Dior introduced the revolutionary "New Look." This 35 | Nu View

approach completely changed the top’s silhouette to an over-exaggerated, cinched waistline. Belts and corset tops were huge for the new look. The bottom/skirt consisted of an a-line silhouette. The only thing that remained from the previous years was the skirt’s length being above the ankle. In that regard, Christian Dior encouraged floorlength fashion with his new look. He was creating a glamorized feel for the woman dressing in them: Femininity, glamour, and revolutionary. These were the best words to describe the New Look. One of the most iconic fashion industry gains was the introduction of Christian Dior’s Bar Suit. The Bar Suit included a peplum style coat in which created the illusion of a belt cinching the waist. The peplum coat over-emphasized the hourglass figure. The bottom of the bar suit was an A-line skirt, occasionally pleated.

Due to being post-war, the amount of fabric that was being utilized became an issue.

Though the look was highly praised, many

people still considered the “over-use” of fabric shamefully “unnecessary.”

Dior utilized an exaggerated amount to fulfill his garments’ look. Yet, this is exactly what many women sought in order to feel elegant and glamorous. Prior to the New Look, there was a very neutral color palette.

The color palette began expanding, afterward, into played-down tones, such as oranges, light greens, and shades of blue. This palette still includes the prior neutrals of off-whites, beiges, grays, and classic black. Patterns were not huge at the time. This entailed the emphasis on solid color or monochromatic garments.

Belts were beginning to become more of an accessory rather than for support. This is extremely evident with the targeted hourglass silhouette. The 1940s was a time to embrace modest curves.

Though the new look began during the second half of the decade, we can not forget the huge impact it had on the transition of the 1940s to the 1950s. The concept of glamour was slowly being brought back to life postwar. The 1940s brought a revolutionary style that will forever influence fashion.

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Photograph by Abigail Alexis Ramirez New York City, New York 1899

37 | Nu View

BERGDORF Written by: Katie Biggar Many know of the luxury department store, Bergdorf Goodman, for its extravagant interior and lavish clothing pieces, but the infamous department store has quite the history. Herman Bergdorf, an immigrant from Alsace, opened his tailor shop in 1899, a few blocks above Union Square in Manhattan.

Edwin Goodman, a 23-year-old American Jewish businessman from Lockport, New York, moved to New York City to work for Bergdorf as an apprentice.

Within two years, Goodman had raised enough funds to buy a share in the company which was renamed Bergdorf Goodman in 1901. Bergdorf Goodman became a destination for American and French fashion after they became the first couturier to launch ready-to-wear in 1914. After the Great Depression, many women flocked into the department store to purchase ready-to-wear outfits since they had been in a financial bend for so long.

Bergdorf Goodman opened its doors again on Fifth Avenue and 58th Street in 1928, after previously relocating three times. He grew in popularity throughout the 1930s. As Goodman acquired nearby buildings, they eventually owned the entire block after being permitted expansion. The company has continued to flourish since then and is still considered a fashion haven today. Bergdorf Goodman is a well-known hot spot in New York, featuring a cafe and an entire floor dedicated to accessories. Even as the fashion trends continue to change, Bergdorf Goodman has remained on top of the fads and encourages freedom of expression.

Nu View | 38

The

Little Black Written by: Armana Haque

Dress

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, popularly known as “Coco Chanel”, was born on August 8th, 1883 in Samuer, France. Chanel was always a unique girl compared to the other girls. She grew up in a Catholic orphanage. She learned how to sew when she was six years old, and eventually got employed as a seamstress in the daytime and as a cabaret singer in the evening when she got older.

Through a mutual friend, or more like a mistress of a friend, Coco Chanel met Arthur Capel who had also fallen for her and wanted to give her an offer she couldn’t turn away from. Capel provided financial assistance for Chanel to open a small clothing store in Paris in 1910 and named it “Chanel Modes”. Within 5 years, Chanel started designing clothing that was inspired by the “poor girl look,” which were very simplistic jersey sweaters and sportswear, that became wildly popular among wealthy women that were trying to escape the tight corset fashion during that time. Chanel was adamant about how she believed luxury fashion is not luxury if it’s not comfortable. She created history-making designs that everyone now knows as the classic “LBD”, the little black dress. Coco Chanel invented the little black dress in the 1920s as a simple article of clothing that was versatile, comfortable, and long-lasting. She re-invented the meaning of “classy” fashion where women didn’t have to be a high-maintenance appearance, but instead could just put on a simple dress with some black pumps. The classic little black dress was meant to be dressed up or dressed down for any occasion. For example, women could wear the mid-length black dress with a blazer and heels in the daytime for business, and in the evening, the dress can be paired with some fancy earrings and necklaces, hence the other name for the LBD, the cocktail dress. Chanel was also really famous for popularizing costume jewelry, where she would pair big statement jewelry pieces with basic pieces of her designs. Today, Chanel’s signature design that she adds to a majority of her pieces, like her blazers and skirts, are the gold chains you can only find on her designs. She left behind an impactful legacy that no other designer before her could compare to because of how much she revolutionized modern fashion way before her time.

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While the rest of the world didn’t even know what fashion was, the French were busy turning fashion into a business. They saw past simple dress-making and pretty clothes and birthed an industry that would dominate our world for centuries to come.

Even to this day, Paris is considered the number one fashion capital in the world. Fashion has always existed at the crossroads of art and consumerism, but never more so than in today's society. The way we perceive our bodies, desires, and eras shapes fashion every season, as it shapes us. The concept of “fashion” began in the 17th century. The association of France with fashion and style was initiated by Louis XIV's court. Fast forward a few centuries later, fashion gained even more prominence due to a little French designer who revolutionized Paris fashion and then the world's perspective on it. Her name was Gabrielle Bonheur, better known as Coco Chanel.

Paris

Paris has been ruling the high seas of

fashion for more than three centuries.

During this time it has attracted the

world's foremost designers and seemingly

imbued its citizens with an innate sense of style. For these, and plenty of other reasons, Paris can still rightly claim

l Alexis Ramirez Photos by Abigai

its title of world fashion capital.

By the 1940s, France had long been established as the center of women’s fashion. However, six months into the 1940s, German forces occupied Paris. France was completely cut off from the US and the UK, as a result, French fashion diverged drastically from what other countries were wearing. Coco Chanel set up shop a year before the outbreak of the war and later benefited by having a top Nazi official as her lover. Expensive fabrics such as silks and lace were no longer available in Paris and ordinary fabrics were restricted. This meant the collapse of the French fashion industry.

The designs at that time in France were full skirts, high-heeled shoes, and even fur coats for those who could afford them. The French designers argued that their designs were in defiance of the German restrictions. In Paris, women began to make hats their expression of fashion. Materials may have been rationed, but flowers and feathers were not. Therefore, we saw an explosion of color and style on the heads of many French women through the 1940s.

Article written by: Don Davis

37 | Nu View

50's Nu View | 44

Written by: Angelina Oliva Creative Director: Abigail A. Ramirez Photographer: Abigail A. Ramirez Model & Stylist: Jada Titus

The Idea of Fashion in the 50s was catered around

the

woman. men

idea

Women

wore

of

wore

suits.

the

perfect

dresses

Women

and were

encouraged to stay home, and men were expected to work. However, this was

also

the

decade

of

innovation

and rebuilding. A decade of change and freedom.

The standard housewife image was popularized

and

women

who

broke

free from that image were idolized.

Pop

culture

figures

like

Marilyn

Monroe redefined elegance, wearing jeans and slacks freely. She inspired other women to do what used to be considered She

was

living one

on

of

the

the

wild

side.

biggest

sex

symbols to date, not because every man in power wanted her,—looking at you

Mr.

Kennedy—but

because

she

made them wish they could have her.

The spirit of rebellion was alive and

well

inside

and

outside

of

the

world of fashion. There was a midshift

to

rock

and

roll

and

with

it

brought upon the leather jacket and black

jeans.

Marlon

Brando

and

James Dean were shining examples of this trend. It wasn’t just about the love of men though, they made everyone fall in love with the high that youth presented.

The

era

of

preserving

not

the

physical beauty of being young, but the

feeling

that

fashion

of

hopeful

sparkle

this

came time in

the

with

it.

The

reflects

this

eyes

the

of

young, it speaks volumes to what it means to be young. The everyday look wasn’t the only thing on the rise.

45 | Nu View

Perfection It was the birth of couture and high-end designers

like

Coco

Givenchy.

Not

to

Chanel,

mention

Dior,

the

and

start

of

fashion week at fashion capitals like Milan and Paris. The up and coming rise of the couture houses gave fashion a whole new definition, it showed people that fashion is indeed endless with creativity. There was no more fitting inside a small box, these were pieces that created a movement.

Designers used a heavy amount of fabric and cut them into unthinkable looks yet managed to satisfy and accentuate the waist. Though designs didn’t always have to

be

as

extravagant

considered

and

high-end

big

chic.

to

be

Audrey

Hepburn’s simple black dress in “Breakfast at

Tiffany’s,”

proved

that

designed poise

can

by be

Givenchy, simple

and

easily achieved.

Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” depicted the spitting image of a princess that every girl wanted to be, charming and delicate, almost angelic. What made it important was

that

she

achieved

this

image

by

making the capri-pant and blouse more feminine than any dress could.

Women realize

specifically

that

just

were

beginning

because

they

to

weren’t

wearing a hoop skirt doesn’t mean they couldn’t

be

Grace

Kelly.

It

was

the

transition of a mindset. It was no longer about the inferiority of the sexes, it was about the feminist wave.

The 50s fashion movement was the transition

of

perception.

individual

realization—the

It

was

dress

about doesn’t

make them, they make the dress.

Nu View | 46

Givenchy Hubert de

Written by: Katie Biggar

Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de Givenchy and is a member of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Pret-a-Porter. Givenchy started his own business and kept his operating costs down in order to keep his design prices low.

Givenchy's first collection, which featured impeccably tailored separates, high-style coats, and chic ball gowns, was an instant global success. Creative accessories, silk prints, and embellished fabrics were all used in his creations, which made him stand out as a designer. In 1957, he and Cristóbal Balenciaga invented the "sack silhouette." The highbosomed fairy dress without sleeves or a belt was made famous by Givenchy's designs for Audrey Hepburn in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany's. The introduction of the "Givenchy Gentleman'' line in 1969 became a men's fashion classic and has continued to inspire many designs since its release. In 1975, the designer introduced a fragrance of the same name to complete his vision of men's sophistication and the "Givenchy Gentleman" style. The fragrance is still produced today, alongside Givenchy's men's ready-to-wear collection.

Following Givenchy's retirement in 1995, the English designer John Galliano was appointed as the couture house's lead designer. When Galliano relocated to the House of Dior, he was succeeded by yet another English designer, Alexander McQueen. Riccardo Tisci is currently the lead designer of Givenchy as of 2020 and has big plans for the company as the leader.

47 | Nu View

BALENCIAGA labotsirC

A Subtle Sophistication Written by: Katie Biggar

Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre was a Spanish fashion designer and the founder of the Balenciaga fashion house. He started working as a tailor's apprentice when he was twelve years old. The Marchioness de Casa Torres, the town's most influential noblewoman, became his patron and customer when he was a teen and later sent him to Madrid to receive formal tailoring training.

Balenciaga is one of the few couturiers in fashion history who could not only design, but also pattern, cut, and stitch the designs himself, illustrating the essence of his artistry.

Balenciaga was a prolific designer in Spain during his early years. In 1919, he opened a shop in San Sebastián, which later grew to locations in Madrid and Barcelona. Balenciaga's garments were worn by the Spanish royal family and elite, but when the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his doors, he relocated to Paris. In August 1937, he opened his couture house in Paris, however, it was not until the postwar period that the true extent of his profoundly innovative designs became noticeable. He revolutionized the silhouette in 1951, eliminating the waist and widening the shoulders. He also designed the tunic dress in 1955, which evolved into the chemise dress in 1957.

Balenciaga was the most notable designer of the time because of his techniques, which had not been shown in the fashion industry prior. He was an expert tailor who could turn his sketches into authentic garments. His expert tailoring abilities gave him a leg up on other designers, making him a hot commodity among shoppers. His ability to create anything that he had illustrated on paper is what made his competitors respect him, so much so that they gave him the title of “The King of Fashion”.

Balenciaga despised the fashion press and refused them access to his collections starting in 1957. He held his fashion shows a month after the rest of the fashion designers. He despised the concept of working to appease a gluttonous press that expected new ideas for each collection. With each collection, he improved his ideas and increased the bar for himself which is what made him such a wellrespected designer.

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Introducing UNT Fashion Designer Jenna Critchlow is a double UNT alum with a BFA in Drawing and Painting (‘13) and a BFA in Fashion Design (‘20). She often combines her drawing

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Written by: Jenna Critchlow Dress Designed by: Jenna Critchlow Photographer: Victoria Eidson Model: Mary Gamboa

49 | Nu View

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Jenna Critchlow Nu View | 50

IT'S NOT ALL VARSITY JACKETS AND MILKSHAKES Written by: Don Davis Photographer: Victoria Eidson Models and Stylists: David Fallgatter and Danielle Zachariah

American fashion in the 50s was unlike anything that had ever been done before. It sparked a movement that completely disrupted the fashion industry and beguiled the “sex, drugs, and rock & roll" era of the 1960s and 70s, and queer fashion in the 1980s. The 50s was beloved for its chic retro style and playful looks, including those of the pin-up and rockabilly subcultures. The ideal shape for this decade was a feminine, exaggerated hourglass silhouette. Key designs for this decade included dresses with cinched waists, pencil and poodle skirts, gingham and polkadotted prints, and cropped sweaters and cardigans.

This decade also birthed the era of “the teenager.” In the 50s there was a heavy distinction between youth fashion and a more mature way of dress. The rockabilly subculture of the 1950s was based around the music genre of the same name. The style which combined elements of rock and roll with country music, was highly popular, especially among teenagers, and due to its popularity, rockabilly soon developed into a signature aesthetic. The fashion for women of this subculture consisted of a mixture of pin-up styles and swing looks. Thanks to the rockabilly subculture, the 50s was fun, flirty, and sexy. The 50's pin-up style was all about feminine sex appeal, therefore the clothing involved was often quite revealing. It included pieces like tight-fitting pencil skirts, hot pants, halter neck dresses, bustier tops, bikinis, and an edgy attitude.

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JAMES DEAN

BY DON DAVIS

A

REBEL

WITH

A

CAUSE

He was a figurehead for the disaffected youth of 1950s America. His style was incredibly simple, yet remains a perpetual benchmark for the art of dressing casually.

James Dean was a prodigious young acting talent, yet it was the way he carried himself off-screen that set him apart and made him an idol for rebellious youth. James Dean didn’t abide by Hollywood’s standards; he lived by his own rules and it was his live-fast-die-young attitude towards life and fashion that made him immortal. James Dean introduced something different to the fashion industry that it had yet to see, minimalism, which, back then, might as well have been a dirty ten-letter word. In the 1920s, appropriately nicknamed the "Roaring Twenties," fashion mirrored the women who wore it. It was loud (due to the beads from the dresses and jewelry) and in your face (due to the dresses being knee-length).

Fashion only got more brazen as the years progressed, Elsa Schiaparelli's shocking pink was the exact opposite of subtlety. In the 40s, due to World War II, fabric was heavily rationed, but feathers were not. Therefore, women during that time period wore huge, gaudy hats as tall as buildings to passive-aggressively rebel against the strict fashion limitations. James Dean brought something different to the sartorial industry. The looks he created were inspired by basic items like denim jeans and white t-shirts, he somehow made the "bad boy" style look sophisticated. His gingham blazer was the perfect middle ground between classic, single-tone tailoring and an overzealous explosion of print. He often layered it over high-waisted dark trousers and styled his collar upward for a nonchalant look. That Ivy League preppy style mixed with the dark academia style that's coming back in a major way – that was all James Dean.

"Dream as if you'll live forever. Live as if you'll die today."

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The King of Rock BY: DON DAVIS

&

Roll

Elvis Presley was the pioneer for gender-fluid fashion, and his success is what enabled him to fully indulge in his taste for ostentatious fashion. He rebelled against society’s rigid and outdated gender rules and encouraged young men to experiment with clothing, which had previously only been done by women. In the era of Brooks Brother's conformity, Elvis’ fondness for bubble-gum pink clothing, lace, mascara, and navelbaring cropped tops, disrupted the status quo. He spearheaded gender-fluidity before it was even a thing, and paved the way for Harry Styles' hot pink debut.

Elvis pushed gender boundaries throughout his career.

Those gaudy floral vacation shirts were all the rage in the sixties thanks to Elvis. A testament to Elvis' influence was when he wore that red hibiscus shirt for the movie Blue Hawaii, and the house of Prada, Dior, and YSL all released lines with a strong Aloha style.

Elvis didn't initially set out to disrupt the fashion industry, but then again, the greats never do. The flamboyance of stage-wear liberated men to wear clothes that were more outrageous than they had worn since the nineteenth century. Elvis’ contribution to the fashion industry did not stop at clothes, he also normalized men wearing jewelry, not just gold chains, diamonds. He was

never shy about flaunting his style or his immaculate wealth. Elvis was a modernday Gatsby. During his lifetime, Elvis owned more than 260 cars, including a limo painted with crushed diamonds, which cost today the equivalent of half a million dollars. He also owned private jets with gold-plated bathrooms, and mountains of diamond jewelry, which he threw out to his fans at concerts like confetti. Where Elvis led, others followed. Rap's love of bling is obvious, but the King's gold suit has proved especially influential. Artists, as varied as Tupac and Brandon Flowers, have since given their suits the Midas touch.

Versace and Costume National has sent models down the catwalk in head-to-toe gold, and stars like Bruno Mars, Justin Bieber, and Jared Leto have showcased a much more toned-down version of his suit, metallic gold blazers with Elvisesque black lapels. Elvis may be gone, but his style and influence will live on forever. Seventy years later, we are still enjoying the sartorial freedoms he ushered in.

Marilyn eornoM Written by: Armana Haque Marilyn Monroe was one of the most famous celebrities and an iconic figure during the 1950s. Everyone most likely knows her for her signature blonde bob hair, thick red lipstick, and her beauty spot above her lips.

Monroe’s fame took off when she earned her role in the comedic movies as the “blonde bombshell” and had her face plastered on any advertisement or illustration as the epitome of a sex symbol later in the decade.

Over the next few years, she starred in many other popular comedy movies such as “As Young as you Feel” and “Monkey Business” that officially made her one of the top-billed actresses of the decade. She was caught in several scandals including her nudes being exposed before she became a star and her love affair with President Kennedy during the time. This news however did not harm her career but instead boosted her to fame that made people more interested in her and her work.

The way Marilyn Monroe was first introduced to the entertainment industry was by meeting a photographer from First Motion Pictures and starting a modeling career as a pin-up model. This later led to her roles in films produced by 20th Century Fox and Columbia Pictures. Monroe however had bigger plans in mind and knew her worth when the studios she was working for were underpaying her and she refused to continue to her roles because of that, leading to her being suspended. As a female working in the entertainment industry, she faced a lot of challenges to be treated as equals to other men in the industry that had very misogynistic views.

Monroe started many revolutions for women and fashion during this decade. She was a public figure that made hourglass-shaped bodies a desirable figure. She wore clothes that would be between a size 8-10 when being a size 0-4 was the most common size to be in the fashion world in the past. Because she was such a popular figure in the media during that time, it made more people and companies begin to be more inclusive on any sort of media. She was the definition of a sex symbol during the ’50s to the point that her nudes were on the front cover of Playboy’s first issue. Monroe was never afraid to stay true to herself in confidence and that only made people and media gravitate towards her even more. She was considered one of the first celebrities to prioritize her public image like it’s a part of her job, whereas in today’s society we see celebrities and content creators prioritizing that all the time.

Marilyn Monroe had a big impact on the representation of the general audience all over the world during a period where women were females in the workforce experienced discrimination solely because of their gender. She was someone people looked up to during the ’50s, and most importantly, she was a woman.

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"A NEW ERA"

THE 60s PEACE. LOVE. CHANGE.

Written by: Allison C Dibble Photographer: Victoria Eidson Makeup: Rylee Sage Reed Model & Stylist: Allison C Dibble

Peace and love. The 60s was a time that drastically changed our view on pop culture and the generation that changed music forever. All the hippies were totally immersed in their addiction to music and spreading world peace.

Whenever people speak of the 60s, the Vietnam War is one of the many major events that come to mind. This particular war created an array of emotions and ignited the major push that the youth needed to fight for what they believed was right.

The difference in opinions on the United States involvement in this war was backed up by celebrities’ viewpoints, countless

protests and the loss of thousands of lives. Many artists like the Beatles, Janis Joplin, and Jimi Hendricks created a lot of music that they used to inspire the youth to act for what they believe in. That is why this period of time can be referred to as the Re-LOVEution. One thing that united everyone despite their differences was music.

Woodstock was a massive music festival that brought hundreds of thousands of people together for one sole purpose, to listen to some good music. Psychedelic rock was invented and initiated the desire in individuals to spread groovy Nu View | 56

18 vibes.

Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, The Door, Black Sabbath and many other music groups created a new sense of music that was not around before. Psychedelics are known as the hallmark drug taken during this era, causing a major rise in promised enlightenment.

To this day, we are still influenced by Woodstock ideals and the people who long for this unity among everyone. Music festivals today are still trying to recreate the one weekend that changed music forever. People still think about Hendrix’s guitar solo during the national anthem on August 15, 1969. The 60s was more than music and war, this was also the decade where technology and space exploration was revolutionized. On July 20, 1969, the United States came out victorious in the legendary space race and launched the first man onto the moon.

This pivotal event changed the way we view earth and provided an unprecedented advancement to technology.

People were star struck at the fact that man is able to step foot on the moon. The sixties are known for their colorful, abstract mod dresses and go-go boots. This major happening launched us into a new era of change, creating a whole new aesthetic for individuals to achieve. Many people desired this space age look and began to envision what a technologically advanced future would look like.

After the 1950’s post-war economic boom, there was an increase in patriotism and a renewed sense of hope for the future. The youth shaped future generations as they began to defy the normal expectations with a liberated mindset on drugs, protest, and sexuality as they crashed through cultural barriers.

ThE ThE mini mini skirt skirt Written by: Victoria Eidson Photographer: Abigail A. Ramirez Makeup: Rosan Moran Model: Rosan Moran Stylist: Rosan Moran

Hemlines went up and so did waistlines. By the end of the 1960s, every woman had a mini skirt in their closet. Originating in Britain, it caught on and became wildly popular in the last half of the decade. The fashion trend took off because it was so different than prior styles. It started first with young women, then eventually adults accepted the oncecontroversial look. Popularized by icons like Twiggy, the mini skirt was the epitome of the "baby doll" look. Women, no matter their age, wore bright colors and held on to their youth by dressing in more juvenile outfits.

"Hemlines went up and so did waistlines" Nu View | 58

spaceage spaceage spaceage spaceage spaceage 59 | Nu View

Written by: Sarah Hogan Photographer: Victoria Eidson Model: Allison C Dibble Makeup: Rylee Sage Reed

Space Race, a Recount of the 60's Otherworldly fashion “In the space age the most important space is between the ears.” ~Anne Armstrong The 1960s space race fostered innovation and scientific advancement never reached before. The race to be first on the moon fostered a revolution of new ideas distinguishing this time from any other. The ’60s not only marked a period of technological and scientific progression but also allowed rich and diverse fashion movements to emerge.

These movements ranging from Jackie Kennedy-inspired outfits to psychedelic trends were largely impactful. Amidst it all came America’s fascination with space and all it has to offer. This

obsession with the beyond created fashion trends like no other.

Ultramodern was officially in. Futuristic scenes, aliens, and sci-fi moved to the forefront of pop culture. Shows like “Star Trek,” “Lost in Space,” and “The Jetsons” became wildly popular as they portrayed vivid images of the world of tomorrow.

This newfound love for modernity shaped 60’s styles giving clothing futuristic flair. Bold, metallic, and shiny was the essence of space-age culture.

Featuring white and silver color schemes as well as minimalistic designs, 60s fashion sets itself apart from anything ever done before. Sleek and streamlined silhouettes incorporated industrial materials such as vinyl or synthetic fabrics. Fashion was all about that chic look reminiscent of science fiction icons.

Oftentimes space-age fashion took on a unisex ambiance. People sported innovative looks including short tunics and shiny gloves. Helmets and innovative headwear were staples of the time resemblant of astronauts’ suits. Go-go boots topped off the “space look” with fluorescent colors and shiny material.

Accessories such as bold glasses or silver eye makeup were widely loved add-ons to any look. Today’s innovators of SpaceX are fostering a revitalization of space enchantment. The 1960s aesthetics may make a break for modern wear.

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T

Y G WI G Dame Lesley Lawson Written by: Sarah Hogan

Twiggy dared to be different. Known for her long, false eyelashes, loud eye makeup, and short, cropped hair, Twiggy revolutionized fashion. In a time where skirts above the knee were taboo, Twiggy managed to popularize the mini skirt. She often wore dresses and skirts that hit six or seven inches above the knee – scandalous! Her style also incorporated the simple shift dress. The dresses sometimes had exaggerated collars and often displayed hints of androgyny. The dresses highlighted her slim frame, creating the iconic "Twiggy look." She wore vibrant colors including baby pinks, whites, yellows, and reds. As for patterns, she wore plaids, checks, and stripes. Her simple styles highlighted her figure and created a thin, boyish look. Her fashion choices were daring for her time and definitely not the norm, but her uniqueness made her an inspiration. She was the embodiment of Mod chic, and Twiggy quickly became the face of 1960s fashion.

"There's no need to dress like everyone else. It's much more fun to create your own look." ~ Twiggy

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I C O N

AUDREY HEPBURN

Beauty in Simplicity Written by: Sarah Hogan From fashion to film, Audrey did it all. Her impact on the industry transformed her into the well-known icon she is today.

Remembered for her poise and elegance, Audrey captivated audiences everywhere in the ‘50s and ‘60s. Starring in movies such as Roman Holiday and Breakfast at Tiffany’s, she made a mark on Hollywood and the world. Aside from her influence on the big screen, Audrey quickly became a beacon of light in the fashion world. She favored clean lines, plain colors, and slimfit clothing.

Her signature style incorporated simple attire with a sophisticated undertone. She often wore plain blacks, pinks, and whites.

Headscarves, tiny black dresses, and thick brows come to mind when picturing her most iconic looks. She wore cigarette pants, black polo necks, trench coats, and ballet flats. Alongside these clothing items, Audrey often wore oversized button-downs, midi-skirts, and simplistic, plaid shirts. As for accessories, she loved anything with pearls. Her fashion sense was largely inspired by the look of men’s wear, but yet maintained a distinct feminine aura.

Arguably she is most well-known for her “LBD” in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The simple, black sheath dress, designed by Hubert de Givenchy, became Audrey’s name to fame. She paired the dress with an ornate necklace, opera gloves, oversized sunglasses, and a hair brooch. While Coco Chanel had originally sparked the idea of a little black dress, Audrey Hepburn advertised it to women everywhere. She showed women why they had to have this latest style. We still see this dress, although slightly modernized, on women today.

Audrey Hepburn proved there is beauty in simplicity and provided a model for women’s fashion. She showed others how to emulate elegance without wearing heavy garments and layered dresses. She brought a realness to fashion but made it stylish and chic, nonetheless.

Nothing is impossible, the word itself says 'I'm possible'!

Audrey Hepburn

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YVES SAINT LAURENT INSPIRED

65 | Nu View

Over the years I have learned that what is important in a dress is the woman who is wearing it.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

Written by: Katie Biggar Photographer: Hannah Perez Model: Natalia Perez

Yves Saint-Laurent was a French fashion designer who founded his own label in 1961. He is widely recognized as one of the most prolific fashion designers of the twentieth century. As a boy, Saint-Laurent liked to create intricate paper dolls, and his creativity was recognized by his mother at an early age. By his early teen years, Saint-Laurent was designing dresses for his mother and sisters. When he turned 17, Saint-Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, where his work continuously received attention. Michel De Brunhoff, the late editor of French Vogue, introduced Saint-Laurent to designer Christian Dior, who later became his mentor until their falling out.

In 1967, Saint- Laurent opened his YSL Rive Gauche Pret-aPorter House, where he began to shift his attention from Haute Couture to Ready-to-Wear fashion. One of the aims was to make a large variety of trendy designs available in the market so they were more affordable. Several of his collections, such as the autumn 1965 line which

introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suits, were well received by both his followers and the press. His spring 1971 line, which was influenced by 1940s fashion, attracted controversy as some spectators believed that it romanticized the German occupation of France during World War II. Saint Laurent was the first living fashion designer to be honored with a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1983. French President, Jacques Chirac, presented him the title of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur in 2001. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and shifted between his two homes in Normandy and Morocco until his death in 2008.

Saint Laurent still sells ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, and jewelry for both women and men. While Yves Saint Laurent Beauté is well-known in the luxury beauty and fragrance industry, it is currently owned by L'Oréal, which has exclusive licenses for the brand. YSL is globally recognized among most luxury brands and is widely praised by other designers.

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THE

70'S

67 | Nu View

E

ras like the 70s have their stereotypes in movies and television today, but the revival of bell bottoms, stripes, and warm tones in the 2010s positioned the 70s in a nostalgic and stylish light that is almost comparable to the obsession of 90s fashion in the present day. That being said, that is not all the 70s were known for. This decade was about making a big turnover in how women dressed. The casual and effortless garments we wear today were considered revolutionary and rebellious without cause back then. In the 1970s, we see how style and originality were redefined through how certain apparel was repurposed. During the 1970s, changes in women’s roles are seen through the rise of jeans, t-shirts, and pantsuits.

What was originally workwear for men was now daywear for women. Pantsuits also were worn for work and leisure. They eventually gave way to newer styles in the decade: knickers, gauchos, and hot pants. Jeans were first worn by hippies as a means of style and not for their original function for manual labor. By the 70s they were an international success and a means of self-expression so much so that designers started making them for high-end prices. Outfits grew increasingly colorful and subject to seasonal style changes, but the silhouettes remain Aline, a representation of simple yet breathable attire that's flattering. The prevalent silhouette of the mid-70s was fluid and casual. They used softer fabrics. There were lots and lots of versions of knits like cardigans, pullovers, mohair. Knitted tops were made to go over skirts and pants. Black Americans were heavily influenced by African culture. Dashikis were worn as leisurely clothing. Afros were worn often in the early 70s, but by 76, cornrows slowly became integrated into the culture there on out. Carried over from the 60s era, African Americans continued to have a strong impact on contemporary fashion. Ebony and jet chronicled fashion and society. During the 70s, the representation of black models is still growing in print adverting. Other hairstyles included pompadour and teased hair. While relaxers are not mentioned yet, some with flatter hair textures started using permanent waves.

Outside influences came from movies and media. Movies like Grease with a signature fashion sense were a revival of popular 50s styles. Doctor Zhivago inspired belted coats over maxi skirts as a look. Punk styles were signified by a destroyed version of garments. Clothes were made with intentional holes and stains, and reparative accessories became an aesthetic purpose. Punk garments were complemented by equally dark and “disturbing” make-up like black eyeshadow, dark unconventional lipstick, and two-toned lips. While designers like Zandra Rhodes incorporated these ideas in their collection. Punk fashion was seen as an alternative but not a domineering style. Even now, movies today that are based in the late 70s keep the essence of the decade with the zip-up turtlenecks, wide-brim hats, and oversized blazers for women, all tinted with a gorgeous shade of warm brown or red. This decade is portrayed as bodacious and slightly gimmicky with GoGo and hippie costumes alike, but at the root of it was a free-spirited and classic yet colorful way of looking at getting dressed for the day. It was not as flamboyant as people see it presented. It is truly defined by the free and unapologetic use of color, and the inspiration taken from rebellion against uniformity.

By Sofia Greaves

Nu View | 68

TRIPPY HIPPY WRITTEN BY: SARAH HOGAN PHOTOGRAPHER: TINA TRAN MODELS AND STYLISTS: ALLISON DIBBLE, RYLEE SAGE REED, ALEXANDRA JONES

69 | Nu View

H

ippie culture, primarily taking hold in the late ‘60s to early ‘70s, arose in a argely turbulent atmosphere as the social change took center stage. Amidst the civil rights movement, Vietnam war, and general disruption in America, a cultural revolution took place allowing the hippie lifestyle to rise from the ashes.

Hippies developed a distinctive way of life counteracting any traditional practices of the time. This rejection of mainstream America resulted from a view that society let negative values dominate, values such as materialism, repression, and subordination to the ever so evil “Establishment.” Hippies felt the need to do anything but stick to the status quo, instead, free-spirits and peace were the names of the game. Adopting a Taoist philosophy, hippies emphasized living in the moment rather than struggling to control things. A common phrase tossed around hippie communities was “Go with the flow,” a mantra that essentially sums up their ethos. They commonly took up communal living arrangements, adopted vegetarian or organic ways, and practiced holistic medicine. Hippies tended to remove themselves from society and live in a freerange manner. They advocated nonviolence, love, openness, and tolerance. They saw their movement as a beneficial alternative to the rigid, repressing middle-class society.

“Make love, not war” Hippies promoted the use of hallucinogenic drugs and chastised alcohol. Music became a vital part of the movement with big time names such as the Beatles, Bob Dylan, and the Rolling Stones. Groovy music festivals and trippy new tunes made quite the impact on self-expression and individualism.

Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it’s time to pause and reflect. ~ Mark Twain

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19

ATTIC | JANUARY 2016

Hippies did not just challenge the limits of society, but created a revolution in thought, way of life, and fashion.

The Hippie culture promoted environmentalism, free-thinking, and most importantly, peace. They favored long hair and beards, preferably the natural, down-to-earth look. They were drawn to unconventional dress with psychedelic colors and long, flowing clothing. Women wore sandals, beads, bell-bottom jeans, “granny” dresses, and peasant blouses. Batik fabrics, paisley prints, and tie-dye were also popular at the time. For men, casual, slim-straight, or wide-cut pants were popular, as well as vests and second layers. Shirts were optional, but oftentimes men wore loosefitting button-downs or t-shirts. Everything related to hippies’ fashion was meant to “stick it to the man,” a form of protest. Hippies wore all-natural and organic clothing pieces, whether that be hand-

71 | Nu View

made or recycled. This took shape in the form of acid washing, embroidery, patchwork, beading, and much more. This was yet another jab at rising consumerism. Color also played an important role in 70’s hippie fashion and was integral to the groovy looks of the time. Warmer tones were generally favored like pinks, oranges, and browns being some of the most popular colors. As for patterns, tie-dye, acid-washed, solids, and stripes were the primary choices. Hippie fashion was not simply for aesthetics but also had deep and symbolic meaning.

Today we see remnants of hippie fashion in early bohemian and boho styles with flowy statement pieces, neutral tones, and retro patterns. We see acid-wash and patterned pants re-imagined, browns and earthy tones making comebacks, and even tie-dye re-emerging. Especially now, there is extra emphasis on hand-made, recycled, and sustainable clothing options as many try to be more environmentally conscious. Hippies did not just challenge the limits of society but created a revolution in thought, way of life, and fashion.

DISCO

Photographer: Victoria Eidson Makeup: Riley Sage Reed Models: Alex Jones and Sara Zimmerman

73 | Nu View

DAZE Nu View | 74

Vivienne Westwood A PHOTOSHOOT INSPIRED BY HER WILD STYLE

Written by: Harmony Thomas Stylist & Photographer: Armana Haque Models: Bella Philips, Lizzy O'Malley, Gretchen Van Hausen The punk fashion aesthetic was designer Vivienne Westwood’s muse back in the 1970s.

Westwood designing clothing for band’s such as the Sex Pistols was her rise into the big time fashion scene. In the early ‘70s, Westwood met the manager of the famous band The Sex Pistols, Malcom McLaren. Westwood and McLaren decided to collaborate together on designing clothes for their new clothing boutique in London in 1971. This boutique recycled through different names more than a few times. These titles included store names like Let it Rock, Too Fast to Live Too Young to Die, Sex and Seditionaries, and they finally decided on naming their punk rock aesthetic boutique, Worlds End, by the end of 1979. These name changes were due to the many collections Westwood and McLaren would release. In the beginning, Westwood and McLaren had a passion for going against the hippie like fashion of the ‘60s. Both designers wanted to rebel against this type of style by designing clothing like thick soled shoes and boots, tight fitting pants, and oversized bright colored suits. By 1972, Westwood and McLaren shifted ideas for their boutique, designing more biker aesthetic clothing like leather jackets with zippers and distressed black t-shirts with provocative phrases stamped across them. Westwood and McLaren wanted to depict the theme of rebellion throughout their pieces. In 1974, the designer pair scrapped their biker fashion theme for a more provocative and scandalous age of fashion. Changing their boutique name to SEX, they included designs such as latex fitting dresses and pants and distressed graffited style t-shirts. By 1975, Westwood and McLaren collaborated on band t-shirts for The Sex Pistols; taking inspiration from their distressed t-shirt style designs and displaying themes of British culture morphed onto band tees. Following the success of their store, the designer’s rebranded titling their store Seditionaries, morphing the idea of sex and fashion to create a whole new era of clothing in London. This era inspired Westwood to make sex the center of her fashion designs. Both Westwood and McLaren dominated the punk aesthetic until the split of The Sex Pistols in 1979, which later inspired the split of Westwood and McLaren in the early 80s. This fashion era would later inspire Westwood’s future fashion designs.

75 | Nu View

Models: Bella Philips (left) Gretchen Van Hausen (middle) Lizzy O'Malley (right)

Purple Rain

WRITTEN BY: ARMANA HAQUE PHOTOGRAPHER: TINA TRAN, STYLIST: DANIELA CHACON, MODEL: CHARLES MITCHELL PAGE LAYOUT : DON DAVIS CLOTHING PROVIDED BY LES MUSES VINTAGE

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THE THE THE T H E Penetrating the T H E Music Industry: T H E Queer Fashion in theH 1980sE T THE THE THE THE THE

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The 80s The 1980s didn’t only bring out ground-

breaking music by bands and artists in music

history, but the decade also gave us new and unseen fashion statements by queer artists during this time as well. During their peak in fame, musical artists came on stage with the most outgoing queer and

androgynous outfits that people would normally see on drag queens or other by supermodels. They used their fame and popularity to showcase not only

their talent for singing, but also openly showcase

their taste in fashion that broke down the walls of oppression for groups in the queer community.

The release of his Aladdin Sane album was

when he came out with his iconic image change

with the red and blue striped jumper, the shiny red hair, and the big red thunderbolt across his face.

He became a famous artist that was an Avante Garde fashion icon after that. He had show-

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stopping costumes in his day, including his

bright blue one-legged bodysuit, with extra-

long gold fringe down his arm and a big red

flame in the middle of the torso. Bowie wasn’t afraid of showing off his body when

performing, and embraced the androgynous

appearance and loved his bright colors, prints, and patterns in his outfits and his makeup.

David Bowie, a.k.a his androgynous alter-

ego Ziggy Stardust, openly revealed that he

was bisexual when he did his interview with Playboy. The release of his Aladdin Sane

album was when he came out with his iconic image change with the red and blue striped jumper, the shiny red hair, and the big red thunderbolt across his face. He became a

famous artist that was an avante garde fashion icon after that. He had show-stopping

costumes in his day, including his bright blue one-legged bodysuit, with extra-long gold

fringe down his arm and a big red flame in the middle of the torso. Bowie wasn’t afraid of

showing off his body when performing, and

embraced the androgynous appearance and

loved his bright colors, prints, and patterns in his outfits and his makeup.

Prince was always comfortable with his androgyny and his sexuality from the

beginning, and he made it look cool enough for other people to want to follow suit. One of his most iconic outfits was what he wore on the

cover of his Purple Rain album. It consisted of a purple satin jacket with silver studs, a

button-up white ruffled blouse, and matching

satin pants to complete the look. He also wore

dark eyeliner around his eyes and had a curly hair uppercut look that covered some of his face. Some of Prince’s other famous looks

consisted of sequin and embellishment details, high-waisted bell bottoms, bright-colored

bodysuits, and exaggerated fringe details.

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Elton John was probably known as one of the most

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Model: Qeren Fundi

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during one of his concerts. Because Elton John was

exceptionally popular and queer during the ’80s when the

queer community was still very oppressed, he helped open

the door for many other artists to become comfortable with their sexuality to the public today.

Diana Ross, the actress that played Dorothy in “The Wiz”

and member of The Supremes soul singing group, was a

popular gay artists during the ’80s. He’s well known

famous queer woman of color fashion icon during the 1980s

for always having statement sunglasses everywhere he

as being like the epitome of glamour. She would always pull

goes, and he’s always been very involved in the

LGBTQ+ community since the beginning of his career.

off the classic elegant fashion trends like the long silk

evening dresses, wore her hair in a short curly bob, and

John’s style was described as like a flamboyant

every other high-end fashion that looks like she came out of

rockstar in the ’80s because his personal style at the

a Vogue magazine. Before she decided to pursue a career in

time usually consisted of large faux fur jackets, bell

acting and singing, she wanted to be a fashion designer and

bottoms, anything with bright colors (usually red), and

later even designed the clothes for the film she starred in,

exaggerated details. He had his extremely flamboyant

"Mahogany." She’s always had a killer sense of fashion and

fashion as well, such as when he wore the large jacket

still pulls off the most stunning outfits during red carpet

with all sorts of different colored fur and feathers on it

awards shows.

THE 8 THE 8 THE 8 THE 8 THE 8 THE 8 THE 8 THE 8 THE LEGACY THEY T H E 8 LEFT BEHIND THE 8 THE 8 THE 8 There were many other artists during this decade that were fashion icons and opened up about their sexuality like Boy George, Madonna, and Freddie Mercury. It’s because of these artists’ courage that the queer community has more representation in the media and influenced some famous queer artists’ style today like the Fame Monster Lady Gaga. These artists had a big influence on representing several communities during the ’80s and still continue to have that same influence on them today that motivates them to keep advancing.

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From right to left: Prince, MaDonna, Diana Ross, and Elton John

"Let love shine, and we will find a way to come together and make things better."

Madonna

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Photography and Written by: Don Davis Stylist: Daniela Chacon & Armana Haque Models: Gabby Irawan & Charles Mitchell

"I have a hard time doing anything someone else tells me to do! I've always been driven to follow my own path" - Cyndi Lauper

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Sex, Drugs, and Rock’n’Roll. We saw the first wave of this subculture in the 60s, but it wasn't popularized until the 70s, and in the 80s, thanks to Cyndi Lauper, it was revolutionized. Born in Brooklyn, New York, on June 22, 1953, Cynthia Ann Stephanie Lauper would soon not only take the music industry by storm, but the fashion industry as well, and completely turn it on its head. Her refusal to conform to society's expectation of what a proper young lady should be like is why she was so influential in the fashion industry - because she rejected it completely.

Cyndi was known throughout the 80s for her daring and experimental fashion choices. She mixed, matched, and clashed colors, patterns, textures, and styles to create unique looks that were 100% “her.”

And Cyndi didn’t skimp out on the accessories either, she accessorized to the max. She wore statement earrings, hats, studded belts, and layered necklaces galore. That Chanel quote that says to look in the mirror before you leave the house and take one accessory off, Cyndi made it popular to put an additional 50 accessories on.

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Her signature accessory was bangles.

She was oftentimes spotted wearing a multitude of them on each arm. The goal was to literally hear her as she walked into a room. Her style was said to have announced her arrival and clapped for her departure. Cyndi also didn’t just limit her edgy style to her clothing and accessories, she made a statement with her hair and makeup too. Whether she was rocking a halfshaved head, brightly colored hair, or copious amounts of neon blue eyeshadow, Cyndi was all about bold beauty looks and bright colors. Cyndi's clothing choices lean toward being vivid and intense. She was rarely spotted in all black, her style usually consisted of outfits that incorporated as many colors of the rainbow as possible.

"Without saying a word, your clothes tell a story of who you are - say something interesting."

From her cherry bright lipstick and platinum hair to her wild shoe colors, she couldn't fade into the background.

One of the things that made Cyndi so unique and iconic is she didn't take herself too seriously. She represented the more playful side of fashion and reminded people how much fun experimentation can be. She paved the way for young men and women to find their style, not copy the style of others.

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Clothing provided by Les Muses Vintage

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Model: Luis Lopez

HISTORY'S REPETITION OF THE SILVER SCREEN AND HOW IT TURNED GOLD: Written by: Don Davis

50 years ago, in the 1930s America was going through a Great Depression. How they got through it was the idolization of the silver screen. People would watch television and immerse themselves into the lives of the starlets. This allowed them to escape from reality and forget all the troubles and woes of their own lives. 50 years later, this form of escapism has once more been popularized, however this time, the screen wasn’t silver, it was gold.

The 1980s was the generation of status seekers.

Everyone embraced the if-you-got-it, flaunt-it-ineverybody’s-face lifestyle. The 1980s was the era of rebellion against the “normal.” One way this was shown was through the cultural backlash of the preppy style, and this inspired social sensibility that extended to include all manners of consumables and socializations. This style of going against the “normal” was shown throughout many of the trends of the 1980s: big hair, neon clothes, guy-liner, and leg warmers. Similar to the 1930s, the biggest influence of fashion in the 80s was movies, TV shows, and celebrities. People like Michael Jackson, Princess Diana, Madonna, David Bowie, Cyndi Lauper, and Prince were huge trendsetters for this generation.

Madonna was known as the material girl of the 1980s. Each of these individuals had their own style and influenced the American young adult population.

Another huge influence of the 1980s were television and movies. This was different than in the 1970s, because cable television became more accessible, and by the middle of the decade, 70% of the American population had cable television. Since there was more access to the TV, shows like Dallas and Dynasty could have a larger impact upon fashion rends of the 1980s. An example of this influence was shoulder

pads and how since the women in Dynasty were wearing shoulder pads, you had to be wearing them too. Movies were the last large influence of the 1980s.

A few of these movies were Flash Dance, Sixteen Candles, Valley Girl, and many others. Each of these movies had a large impact on the fashion and style of the 80s. For example, Flash Dance inspired many different trends like the ripped oversized sweatshirts with one exposed bare shoulder and what is known as the “fitness craze.” Another influence on fashion in the 1980s was fashion brands. Brand names became increasingly important to this decade. Some of these brands were Anne Klein, Perry Ellis, Donna Karan, and Calvin Klein. These designers were particularly popular amongst teenage subcultures. Another large fashion influence of the 80s was MTV. Although originally conceived as a promotional tool for the popular music industry, it quickly assumed a life of its own and was embraced by young America as a source of information on the latest trends in music and fashion. MTV started a new phenomenon of teens watching the television to keep up to date on all things pop culture, they called it “the news.” The video component of MTV also heavily affected fashion in the 1980s. As a visual companion to rock 'n' roll, the video clips shown on MTV were frequently vulgar, tasteless, and violent—which inevitably delighted teenage viewers and offended their parents, of course, that only made them even more popular. These videos brought up a sense of rebellion in teenagers that can be seen throughout 80s fashion. The 1980s were a decade of bold style, colors, and silhouettes. With trends spanning from ripped tights and biker jackets, to polished oversized blazers and poof skirts; it was one of the most eclectic decades in fashion.

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The Rise of

PUNK FASHION The beginning of punk fashion first came from mainstream rock artists that were considered more “excessive,” “brutal,” and “unkept” compared to other styles of fashion in the past. Popular bands like The Ramones, Green Day, and Siouxsie and the Banshees were some of the few artists that created this new image of fashion that included making unkempt hair, everything plaid, leather jackets, and dramatic chokers the new appealing look to teenagers and young adults at the time. In London specifically, they developed their own trends that are different from what was more common in American fashion. These trends included having brightly colored hair, most popularly pink, Mohawks, and an excessive amount of shapes and colors on their outfits.

Punk fashion began in the 1970s but it transformed into a more colorful and abstract trend that was different from the all-black clothing and dark makeup looks in the beginning. Some of the main trends during the time were to put on an excessive amount of eyeliner and eyeshadow, wear as much plaid and leather as possible, and tease the hair. What's unique about punk fashion is that the trend didn’t focus on being perfectly styled and on point. In fact, the more rough and effortless your outfits and makeup looked, the better! So having on uneven eyeliner, distressed tear style in your clothing, and putting on colorful extensions was the way to go. Leather jackets were also a must-have item when following the punk

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fashion trend due to all of the new rock bands and artists that wore them in their concerts and music videos at the time. Punk fashion was heavily influenced by artists and celebrities during the time, so you can see a lot of people who get inspiration for their fashion going all out with getting sleeve tattoos and piercings to add on to their style similar to their favorite artists.

Plaid, band apparel merch, and combat boots were another popular trend that was considered a staple for anyone into punk fashion. In the past, these specific types of fashion apparel were considered to be on the casual side and not what you would normally see in fashion magazines during the time. However, due to punk fashion becoming exceedingly popular in the last decade, the trend became a well-known style that gained recognition in the fashion industry. Well-established fashion designers like Anna Sui, Vivienne Westwood, and Gaultier included punk elements in their designs when original UK punk clothing used to be handmade. These punk-styled outfits were being mass-produced and sold in record shops and other specialty stores during the ’80s, influencing more people to get into the edgy style and rock bands. Punk fashion still has some influence over today’s modern trends that you can find in any fashion apparel store from discounts to high-end brands. Shoppers can easily find leather jackets, distressed denim, plaid patterns, and chokers to easily style into more than just punk style fashion. In the end, the punk fashion style never actually faded away into history but has evolved into several other types of fashion that people still consider stylish today.

Written by: Armana Haque Models: Gretchen Van Hausen, Lizzy O'Malley, Bella, Philips Stylist & Photographer: Armana Haque

"There is a fun, flippant side to me, of course. But I would much rather be known as the Ice Queen."

-Siouxsie Sioux

ROLLIN' BACK TO THE '90S PARTY WRITTEN BY ANGELINA OLIVA PHOTOS BY QEREN FUNDI MODELS XANDREA & SOFIA GREAVES

It was freedom, it was intellectual expression, it was setting a precedent. It was the 90s.

With slip dresses and supermodels, came the essence of grunge and pixie haircuts. Paparazzi became the gateway for street style photographers, and pop culture was on the rise like never before. Fashion has been known to act as a mirror to the society’s culture of that time, movements and progress have been documented on runways just as they’ve been portrayed in history books.

Women were fighting for their rightful place at the top alongside their male companions; it was time to take the power back into their own hands. Young people wanted to dress the way they wanted without fear of judgment, and it took courage. Luckily for them, the world saw them and followed by example.

The world turned fearless. The female body was praised as skin-tight mini dresses and sheer fabrics worshipped them. Curves were accentuated; looking sexy was hidden in the simplicity of it all.

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Though the influence of grunge wasn’t lost, flannels and gothic chic were instrumental in shaping this time. It’s hard not to think about “Edward Scissorhands” and the way Johnny Depp and Winona Ryder made us want to dress in our best edgy monochromatic black looks and pull out every piece of black lace we could find. Of course, this was one of the many memorable highlights of this decade.

The Princess Diana’s of the world sported clothing that broke the princess stereotype such as the infamous off-the-shoulder, black, skintight “revenge dress” that shook the monarchy.

She was before her time, wearing an oversized sweatshirt with biker shorts that made those novelty paparazzi shots seem so effortless.

Diana wasn’t the only one breaking stereotypes, it was time for women to be released from their manufactured labels and become their own being.

It was a time for endless possibilities, it was time to step up and be a dreamer. Fashion held nothing back, whatever you wanted to be you could achieve.

The summer of love could be defined with Chanel two-piece sets and bucket hats in ‘92, and Versace inspired the spring trend of mixing and matching patterns.

Casual was in, high-waisted lightwashed jeans or shorts with glasses inspired from “The Matrix” could be spotted on any street corner. It wouldn’t be justice to exclude the numerous fashion statements that have made their way from the sitcom “Friends” to the closets of the everyday girl. Crop tops with mom jeans, plaid with solid color blocking, and not to mention the ‘natural’ aesthetic yet at the same time, we all remained united in our passion. That was the true beauty behind each fashion stage, that was the real love affair of each design, that was the pure purpose of clothing lines reflecting social progress. That was the 90s.

Commonality was at its height, everyone read the same magazines and listened to the same CDs. They shared their love of fashion and appreciated it’s duality, making unity easy. The imprint of the 90s laid the foundation for future fashion trends and notions amongst wellknown and up-and-coming designers. The romance of a single era where a shimmering gold Dior slip dress can co-exist so perfectly alongside a Nike

windbreaker with mom jeans was enthralling.

Different styles worked together to define a point in society where multiple fashion categories existed, yet at the same time we all remained united in our passion. That was the true beauty behind each fashion stage, that was the real love affair of each design, that was the pure purpose of clothing lines reflecting social progress.

That was the 90s.

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GRU NGE GRU NGE 90s nostalgia has basically morphed into a personality trait amongst many fashion-forward individuals (myself included).

Throughout the 2010s the resurgence of 90s fashion came back very strong and helped in defining this past decade’s fashion trends. One trend that birthed its own subculture is grunge.

Written by: Sofia Greaves Photographers: Victoria Eidson & Sophie Astronoto Model: Emily Gossett & David Fallgatter Stylist: Emily Gossett

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What is grunge?

Grunge is actually a music genre.

It is synonymous with “dirt.” The anti-fashion movement that came from fans of this genre inspired designers to take their own spin on it, making the nonchalant, effortless looks actually appear as the consumer tried hard with their outfit. Back then, worn out, band tees were just something to throw on without thought, now it is heavily sought after as a vintage, unique wardrobe staple. As time went on, grunge transformed into a conglomerate of subversive subcultures that got confused as each other. Gothic elements and punk pieces were integrated into the 2010s comeback of grunge style. What you see on Pinterest now is a glammed up and carefully curated image of grunge-inspired fashion, but the original, sartorial aesthetic was much more casual and worn in. At the end of the day, grunge fashion was initially a direct response to the hype of extravagant styles from the 80s.

GRU NGE GRU NGE Then vs. Now Flannel You can thank Vivian Westwood and their adjacent Vogue editorial for making this popular in the 90s.

Back then, it was a wardrobe staple that was the only basis for experimenting with colors like red or green in the grunge culture. Now, flannel can be found in super long silhouettes and softer materials that rival a worn-in thrifted piece.

Layering Flannels around the waist were always seen on hip hop dancers that were just too hot for their shirt.

Literally. Baseball tees led to the replica style of wearing t-shirts with a color contrasting long sleeve underneath. Emma Chamberlain was the first person I personally saw bring this style back, and with her influence on young Gen Z culture, it worked its way up to college campuses with quirky art and fashion students (me included).

Chokers Chokers in the 90s were about showing off simplistic, cheap, yet, edgy ways to accessorize.

Shoelaces, ribbons, and the classic barbed Claire’s chokers arose from this decade and were displayed widely amongst teenage characters in film and television. Now, chokers have become more glamorous and high-end. You can easily find a bedazzled designer choker that looks nothing like the original, nifty style. Some common styles were simple, velvet strap chokers, sometimes sold with layered jewelry attached to it. Do it yourself tutorials on YouTube makes it easy to create jewelry yourself from scraps around your house. Self-made chokers are the closest you can get to the original aesthetic

Distressed Holes and tears were unintentional until Marc Jacobs turned it around. Turning an anti-consumerist concept into a clothing trend was controversial at the time, and yet, it stuck in society 30 years later Nowadays, distressed clothing is incredibly mainstream. Ripped jeans influenced the rise of ripped jean jackets. More recently in high fashion, Moschino dedicated an entire fashion to apocalyptic glam.

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CHICA

Besides being the true inventor of the burrito and originating lowriders, Chicano culture has created long-lasting fashion, art and social movements that not many of us realize are actually Chicano.

The Chicano movement—El Movimiento— was popularized in the 1960s when Latino civil rights activists, like Cesar Chavez and Dolores Huerta, marched in the streets to fight for land restoration, farmworker rights, and education reform. But the political and social implications of the Chicano movement were only the tip of the iceberg. Chicano wasn’t just a political statement; it was a way of life. It’s a physical symbol of the pride Mexican Americans had in their culture, and a way they could both honor and celebrate their life in America and the lives their parents left behind in Mexico.

In the 90s, Chicano culture was broadcasted on the silver screen in a broader scale with films like “Mi Vida Loca” painting a picture of the

perceived Chicana woman. It wasn’t just the Latino community appreciating this movement, now it was everyone.

Bandanas, dark lips, and Nike Cortez sneakers are just a few Chicano cues. The overall look translated feelings of empowerment, strength, and resilience like no other. In fact, people around the world started taking notice and adapted to this culture even though they weren’t Mexican American at all. Japan is a glaring example of this, with Chicano shops and Japanese women who dress and act Chicana.

Believe it or not, many trends that are popular today actually originate in Chicano culture.

The “oversized” look is attributed to the baggy aesthetic made notable by Southern California Chicano youth in street gangs or Pachucos when they made their mark on zoot suit fashion in the 1930s-40s. Other styles include Chicano font present on graphic t-shirts and mostly tattoos.

Cholo style also led the way to mainstream

ANO fashion trends, even Rihanna was seen wearing the signature buttoned-up flannel with a white tank top underneath, dark-lined lips and eyeliner, big gold hoop earrings, and low saggy jeans.

Selena Quintanilla, an international superstar, portrayed the Chicano dress and appearance on a global stage. When Jennifer Lopez played Selena in her biopic, it brought Chicano even further into the mainstream world. Dark woven ponchos, snapback hats, and baggy jeans were seen more often in regular street style not even in Chicano communities.

Culture appropriation is often the case when other groups, like Japanese women, assimilate to the Chicano lifestyle. Sure, their closets are full of stereotypical Chicano pieces, but they’re missing the point of the culture entirely. It’s not just ornamental or a cute fashion trend. In reality, the rebellious look Chicanas are known for comes from a history of oppression. Those who choose to appropriate this culture do so

without the ties of the life or death politics initially attached to this style from the streets of Los Angeles.

The Chicano style represents more than just fabrics or outfits, it’s a style of resistance. Which is why others get a sense of unwavering strength when met with this culture. The refusal to split one’s Mexican identity from their American identity is heavily present in this community because after all, Chicano isn’t a trend—it’s an identity.

Written by: Angelina Oliva Photographer: Abigail Alexis Ramirez Models: Lucia Holguin

Photographer: Victoria Eidson Model: Charlotte George

The art of seduction. The beauty in a little red dress.

The Femme Fatale trend encapsulated the sexiness of a woman's natural beauty.

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G C I

G U CC I

Written by: Katie Biggar Guccio Giovanbattista Giacinto Dario Maria Gucci left his hometown in Florence and settled in London in 1897 to work at a high-end Hotel. While employed as a bellhop there, he learned about the hotel's wealthy clients' fashion styles, quality, fabrics, and travel conditions by loading and unloading their luggage. He then spent four years working for the Compagnie des Wagons-Lits, a European rail company specializing in luxury travel leisure, expanding his understanding of opulent travel lifestyles. Following WWI, he worked for Franzi, a fine luggage manufacturer.

Guccio Gucci opened his store, Azienda Individuale Guccio Gucci, on 7, Via Della Vigna Nuova in Florence, in 1921, selling imported leather luggage. In addition, he opened a small workshop where he could get his leather products produced by local artisans. Gucci's 60 craftsmen eventually needed a larger workshop, which had to be purchased.

When leather became scarce, Guccio Gucci was forced to incorporate other fabrics into his designs, such as raffia, wicker, wood, linen, and jute. The rombi motif, which is a Gucci trademark, was developed because of the lack of materials. To manufacture "cuoio grasso," the Guccis invented a new tanning technique, which became a Gucci signature. Gucci started producing handbags in 1937.

Given the lack of materials during WWII, the company produced handbags out of cotton canvas rather than leather.

The canvas, on the other hand, featured a signature double-G symbol along with distinctive red and green bands. The Gucci crest, which featured a shield and armed knight surrounded by a ribbon engraved with the family name, became associated with Florence after the war.

Guccio Gucci's three sons, Aldo, Vasco, and Rodolfo, received the company's shares after the war. Gucci introduced the Bamboo bag in 1947. In 1952, the famous moccasins were introduced. Guccio Gucci died in Milan on January 2, 1953. Afterward, the Gucci brand opened their first US store on 5th Avenue and 58th Street in New York in November 1953. In 1960, a second New York store opened in the Saint Regis Hotel, followed by a third on 5th Avenue and 54th Street in 1973, prompting locals to refer to the neighborhood as "Gucci City."

In 2018, Gucci operated 540 stores with 14,628 employees.

The brand has become one of the most well-known luxury fashion houses worldwide.

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MARC JACOBS Marc rc Ma

J a c o b s

During the 90s era of fashion, designer Marc Jacobs was all about the grunge aesthetic. Grunge fashion is defined as rock and alternative music-inspired clothing that is loosefitting and distressed. Jacobs worked for a fashion design brand named Perry Ellis designing women’s readyto-wear fashion. Jacobs’ most famous collection, while he was working for the brand, was showcased in their Spring 1993 collection. Jacobs’s designs featured clothing like multicolored mini and maxi slip dresses, long skirts and loose cargo pants, layered jackets and flannels to go on top, and the infamous Dr. Marten combat boots and Converse sneakers to tie the grunge look together.

Models wore beanies, chokers with silver pieces, and even colorful sunglasses so the looks would appear ready-to-wear. Jacobs was later fired from Perry Ellis because of backlash from critics and his executives for his designs in this collection, and for going against his original instructions. This eventually led to Marc Jacobs

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founding his own fashion licensing and design company in 1993 named Marc Jacobs International Company, L.P. He made this possible with his business partner, Robert Duffy. Jacobs was later recognized by Louis Vuitton in 1997 and was made a Creative Director.

Jacobs designed clothing for Louis Vuitton's first ready-to-wear fashion collection, and even helped design and expand the company’s accessories collection. Later on in this era, Jacobs would launch his first-ever free-standing store for Marc Jacobs in New York City.

Written by: Harmony Thomas Photographer: Holland Rainwater & Abigail Ramirez Model: Allison C. Dibble Page Layout: Angelina Oliva

M E B. Written by: Don Davis Photographer: Armana Haque Model: Alexandra Jones

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The Spice Girls: It was a Scary World How to sum up the 80s - the shoes were preposterously large, the latex was worryingly shiny, and all that neon was practically blinding, but somehow, it worked.

And of course, nobody rocked those gaudy staples quite the Spice Girls. While their looks might’ve been revolutionary at the time, key components such as tie-dye, animal print, and chunky boots have made a comeback in today's time. I guess we can credit the 80s for introducing them to us and the Spice Girls for making those styles notorious.

Ginger Spice, a.k.a. Geri Halliwell, was known for her cheeky, over-the-top style. She practically lived in the colors red, white, and blue, and her go-go boots. Sporty Spice, whose real name is Melanie Chisolm, had a more casual style, or whatever passed for casual compared to the rest of the Spice Girls.

She coined the term “athleisure” long before the millennials who think they invented that style of dress were even born. She was always dressed in sports jerseys with a gold chain and the hottest Nikes. Emma Bunton, also known as Baby Spice, was best known for her boots, specifically Buffalo brand platforms.

She also favored a pastel palette and opted for a babydoll, slip dress look, today’s preppy VSCO girl aesthetic. Posh Spice, better known now as Victoria Beckham, was wellknown for her cutting-edge style. The pageboy haircut, an oversized pair of sunglasses, a black strapless mini-dress, seven-inch stilettos, and something that sparkles, sums up the style choices of Posh Spice. She was always the perfect combination of classy and hood. And last but not least, Mel B. Despite opinions to the contrary, Mel B’s only fashion crime was being decades ahead of her time. Melanie Brown, a.k.a. Scary Spice, favored trousers over dresses and skirts, and originality over conformity. This “unladylike” attitude was quite controversial at the time. She also often wore extremely cropped tops that exposed her abdomen to the world, in the 80s such a look was contentious. Camo and animal prints were a common occurrence in her wardrobe as well. She was mixing prints when it was considered contemptible and “tacky,” now, it’s one of the hottest trends in 2020.

University of North Texas, Merchandising Inc. X The Fashion Society, Nu View Magazine, Denton Texas

The Fantastic Life of Gianni Versace & Her Incredible Story Making History The fashion world has been influenced by so many aspects of art, culture, and style. Fashion is a fastmoving world that depends on how we react to what we are given, as both members of an audience as well as initiators of trends, ideas, and tastes. When fashion designers initiate a new trend or develop a new concept within the fashion world, it opens up doors to new eras in fashion and design within the industry and has the potential to grow in success and popularity. Every new trend was born from an idea, and each has the ability of potentially reaching the likes of influential designers and icons within the fashion world. Each designer has their own style, genre, and influence in the fashion world, and the brand of Versace is a testament to the potential of open-mindedness in fashion.

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The Importance of Notoriety The most successful people within the fashion world are those who have been able to tailor concepts to their own perspectives and provide the general public with new ideas for expanding various areas within the fashion world; thus, defining it as a whole based on their unique and innovative concepts. When we think of icons who have shaped the fashion world as a whole, a few brands might come to mind – Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Bergdorf Goodman, among others.

Additionally, we pair these brands along with their distributors for mainstream availability, like malls and shopping centers – for example, Neiman Marcus and Macy’s. Fashion is about providing influence and character to the preexisting collection of styles that are available to the general public, and how you can define a brand based on the relationship between a design idea and an audience. All major brands have been brought into the spotlight by an individual or team of fashion creatives who understand the concepts and loopholes of the fashion industry as a whole, and how to cater to its expanding .

audience. This is initiating the process of building notoriety as that audience begins to interact with a specific brand. One that comes to mind the most when discussing fashion trendsetting and masterminds of design is the Italian fashion designer Gianni Versace.

He was a member of the fashion community and one of the world’s top fashion designers between the 1980s and 90s who built an empire of a brand surrounding individualism, breaking the standards of fashion all around.

Trendsetting An important aspect of fashion influence is the ability a designer has to develop – and maintain – popular trends, whether that be in

terms of a particular style or design of a garment, a particular print, or simply a repetitive color scheme that is recognizable to everyone. This is a skill that Versace was able to master throughout his career, and has continued to master after his death, as his popularity has not dwindled despite both his individual career and life ending.

He had an element of influence that was grandiose enough to continue to prevail over those who respected him as an artist in the fashion world. It was an important factor in any brand’s overall success and extensive shelf life. The ability to cater to audiences of all familiarity of

and daring fashion that breaks barriers and pushes people to expand their own comfort levels surrounding fashion as a whole. From clothes, to colognes, and to styles of fashion shows, the brand he has built for himself is recognizable as its own. He is known for more suggestive styles and is not shy of providing more provocative essences to his releases and designs. One of Versace’s most prominent designs in his fashion arc is Cindy Crawford’s open-front leopard print dress, a style of the designer which has since made a comeback in more modern Versace shows in the

fashion is essential to being an influential designer in the fashion world. It shows a certain level of expertise of fashion’s influences on people overall, translating to one’s potential growth as an influence themselves. Versace is known for his collections that catered to the specific crowd of individuals in the fashion world who identify with and appreciate more luxurious and printed fashion. Gianni Versace is known for his collections that catered to the specific crowd of individuals in the fashion world who identify with and appreciate more luxurious and printed fashion.

Gianni Versace has been a major contributor to more extravagant late 2010s. When discussing trends, we tend to look at designers that have had significant impacts on the fashion world as a whole in their careers, specifically those of the status of Gianni Versace, who was, arguably, one of the masterminds behind the idea of trendsetting in the early fashion eras that have come to develop the standard for high fashion as a whole and have maintained a status throughout the years upholding such prestige in the world of fashion and innovative design.

Written by: Lily Savage Model: Victoria Eidson Photographer: Abigail Ramirez

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A New Millenium The 2000s was an iconic, yet cringeworthy decade to say the least.

From the unforgettable jean ensembles Britney and Justin wore, to the 2001 American Music Awards, to Raven’s closet in the Disney hit show, “That’s So Raven”, the decade will forever be a memorable one.

The decade started off with the welcoming of Y2K and the era that would be revolutionary in advanced technology. The early 2000s introduced metallics and leather, while still keeping some aspects of the 90s such as crop tops and plaid patterns.

Even the makeup looks seemed to incorporate metallic eye shadows and lipsticks, a look that Christina Aguilera did on the regular with her Xtina persona. It also introduced the infamous chainmail tops that recently popped back up not too long ago!

The boy bands of this time such as Nsync, Backstreet Boys, and 98 Degrees were known for having the “frosted tip” hairstyles, matching outfits and choreography; I mean who doesn’t remember Nsync’s music video for “Bye Bye Bye?!”

Moving towards the middle of the decade, where most of the outfit inspirations came from hit TV shows and movies such as “That’s So Raven,” “Lizzie McGuire,” “Laguna Beach,” “Charlie’s Angels,” “Legally Blonde,” and “13 Going on 30.”

Juicy Couture tracksuits were everywhere; extremely low cut jeans were the trend; Von Dutch hats were all the rage, and girls were desperate to bedazzle their RAZR and Sidekick phones.

You had a number of categories of styles that were popular around this time which included the punk rocker look (thank you Avril lavigne!), the California girl (Lindsey Lohan and Paris Hilton), the Disney Channel star (Miley Cyrus and Ashley Tisdale), and the sexy looks (Jessica Simpson, Beyonce, JLo, Christina Aguilera).

Avril Lavigne had made a name for herself around 2002 when her first album, “Let Go,” debuted with the hit singles “Sk8er Boi” and “Complicated.” This continued her success throughout the decade, but it was also her punk rock style that was most memorable. From the band shirts with the tie to the wrist bands that were so popular at Hot Topic and Spencer’s, Avril was the girl for that category.

The 2000s was also the decade that brought a ton of memorable reality TV shows like "The Simple Life," "Keeping Up With the Kardashians," "America’s Next Top Model," and so much more. Paris Hilton was the absolute IT girl during this time and with that, was the epitome of the “California Girl.”

She is probably best known for her 21st birthday dress, a silver chainmail dress, that Kendall Jenner recreated a while back. Juicy Couture tracksuits were everywhere; extremely low-cut jeans were the trend. Von Dutch hats were all the rage, and girls were desperate to bedazzle their RAZR and Sidekick phones.

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Disney Channel was at its prime during this decade with hit shows like “Kim Possible,” “Lizzie McGuire”, “That’s So Raven,” “The Proud Family,” and “Hannah Montana.” High School Musical even debuted, becoming one of the most successful movies Disney Channel made. This category was aimed at the young teens audience and included the gaucho pants, graphic shirts (that had sayings that were most likely about shopping), “guitar-shaped” purses, chunky headbands, and sequins on everything.

Limited Too, Wet Seal, and Delia’s were at its peak during this time and unfortunately no longer exist today.

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For the older teens and young women, stores like Body Central, Agaci, and Bui Yah Kah were always the goto places to find more sexy and club attire. Extreme low cut, short skirts and revealing tops were in. Showing off thongs in low cut jeans was a thing.“Daisy Dukes” with boots made a comeback (thanks to Jessica Simpson in The Dukes of Hazzard), and anything Playboy related was all over. It was also starting to become a bit sophisticated by introducing slip dresses as outerwear and satin dresses with a soft glam.

Towards the end of the decade, “Keeping Up With the Kardashians,” “The Hills,” and “Gossip Girl” debuted and completely changed the direction of fashion. Long statement necklaces paired with babydoll dresses and simple heels were a go-to outfit. Bandage dresses with clutches were a perfect club outfit and metallics swept the red carpets. Plaids were popular for menswear.

Layering was topped off with a nice scarf, and fedora hats were all the rage. Gossip Girl was revolutionary in both TV and fashion in a sense that it aimed at both men and women and encouraged the “upper east side private school” look.

The 2000s was a learning experience to put it nicelythough it was very memorable. It had more bad moments than good in terms of fashion and was a time where many clothing stores thrived in its glory days.

Technology took off rapidly during this time and went from having pagers to introducing the iPhone.

Social media was introduced, particularly Myspace and Tumblr. We were all singing along to Britney, Ashanti, The Pussycat Dolls, Paramore, Lady Gaga, Chris Brown, and many more throwback hits on our Ipods and Zunes. We even recorded the songs to have on our ringtones. Friday nights were spent at the mall or roller rinks and life was much simpler than today’s world. It will truly be missed.

Article by: Sarah Delgado Models: Sarah Delgado & Carly Spurgeon Photographer: Victoria Eidson

Friday nights were spent at the mall or roller rinks, and life was much simpler than today’s world. It will truly be missed.

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What was the name of Kimora Lee Simmons’ clothing brand? a. Candy b. Rocowear c. Apple Bottoms d. Baby Phat

Which beloved movie character traded her sunny, California university for Harvard Law school and was known for her pink ensembles? a. Regina George b. Elle Woods c. Torrence Shipman d. Mia Thermopolis

3 3) What brand was known for their signature tracksuits and was seen on many celebs like Paris Hilton, Kim Kardashian, and Britney Spears? a. Ed Hardy b. Lacoste c. Von Dutch d. Juicy Couture

4 Along with having tons of movies, merchandise, and even books, these twins were successful during this time, who were they? a. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen b. The Veronicas c. The Sprouse twins d. Hilary and Hailie Duff

5 The Spice Girls continued making their mark in both the music and fashion world during this time, which of the following is NOT part of the Spice Girls? a) Sporty Spice b) Posh Spice c) Baby Spice d) Goth Spice

QU I Z Who WASN’T an iconic couple during this time? a. Kylie Jenner and Travis Scott b. Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake c. Jay z and Beyonce d. Jessica Simpson and Nick Lachey

8 In the 2007 movie, Bratz: The Movie, Chloe was known for her sporty wardrobe, Jade was a fashionista in hiding, and Sasha was a risk-taker. What was Yasmine most known for? a. Shoes b. Headbands c. Handbags d. Makeup

7 What WAS NOT a popular 2000’s fashion item? a. Extreme crop tops b. Wristbands c. Low-rise pants d. Snake-print boots

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Candie’s by Kohls was a part of their major brands they exclusively carried, which of the following was NOT part of their many campaigns? a. Hayden Panettiere b. Hilary Duff c. Pink d. Rachel Bilson

by Sarah Delgado

1.) B 2.) D 3.) D 4.) A 5.) D 6.) A 7.) D 8.) A 9.) A

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C L O E

Sasha's style matches her personality: sassy, fun, and funky. She is the epitome of street style. If her wardrobe was an event, it would be sitting front row at an OffWhite fashion show.

Though Yasmine’s personality is more quiet than the rest of the girls, her style is anything but.

Yasmine’s style of dress can best be described as regal and posh. I guess that’s why her nickname is pretty princess.

Cloe always has her head in the clouds, she’s a literal angel, a daydreamer. She’s also the drama queen of the group, she sees the whole world has her stage, and she dresses like it too.

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Jade is the fashionista of the group. She is always up-todate on the latest trends, but she often rebels against the status quo and puts her own spin on things, that’s why her nickname is "kool kat."

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Models: Rylee Sage Reed, Donye Robinson, Yarely Parra, Chandler Cook, and Lizzy O'Malley Photographers: Armana Haque and Don Davis

Passion

4Fashion Written by: Don Davis In the early 2000s, no toy was more polarizing or controversial than the Bratz dolls - because they were the anti-Barbies.

Bratz were the antithesis of everything young girls were taught to idolize prior to the 21st century: blend in, don’t stand out, don’t make waves, respect your elders, don’t question authority. Bratz represented a different kind of lifestyle, one where your clothes were a further extension of who you are and your identity, not the identity that was forced upon you by society. Bratz were essentially the modern-day Flappers, they wore too much makeup and dressed themselves in a way that was deemed “far too sexual” by elder generations.

The Bratz wore clothing that was trendy, or set the trends themselves. Bratz dolls were known for popularizing minority fashion subcultures like hip-hop and Y2K. Introducing these styles to younger girls ensured that they would be coveted when they were older. Styles like baby tees, low rise jeans, poorboy caps, bucket hats, and tiny purses, just to name a few. Bratz introduced us to street style before the term was even invented. A further example of how Bratz were different from Barbies was that they were racially diverse, and their clothing reflected different cultures. At the time, this new approach to inclusivity and girl power was a huge part of their appeal.

By the end of the 2000s, everyone wanted to be a Brat!

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As If!

Photographer: Armana Haque Model: Charlotte George

Lime Green became the one thing everyone wanted.

First popularized in the 1960s, it made a quick comeback in a highlighter shade towards the end of the 2000s. The trend didn't stop with clothes. Swimsuits, purses, and hair clips were all in different neon colors. Our guess is it will come back again, so stock up on your green!

Photographer: Abigail Alexis Ramirez Model: Giovanna Cervantes

2010 Photographer: Abigail Alexis Ramirez Models: Giovanna Cervantes & Tony Vega

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MODELS: Qeren Fundi and Mariah Brown Stylist: Armana Haque

PHOTOGRAPHER:

Armana Haque

STREET Written by: Don Davis

STYLE The “street” approach to style and fashion is often based on individualism, rather than focusing solely on current fashion trends.

Using street style methods, individuals demonstrate their multiple, negotiated identities, in addition to utilizing subcultural and intersecting styles or trends. This, in and of itself, is a performance. It creates a space where identities can be explored through the act(ion) of dress.

FASHION WEEK VS. STREET STYLE

"CITY STREETS ARE THE REAL RUNWAYS, EVERYBODY KNOWS THAT. THERE'S NOTHING LIKE STREET STYLE DURING FASHION WEEK."

Défilés de mode. Translated it means “fashion parades.” That’s how fashion week initially began in Paris. Marketers would hire women to wear couture garments and accessories in public places like salons and racetracks. It wasn’t until these “parades” gradually became social events all on their own, that fashion week was born. From salons to sold out shows, fashion week had become a series of fashion capitals featuring designers showcasing their collections to fashion’s most influential people. For the next few years, no other series of events was as important to the

sartorial industry. However, since then things have changed dramatically. In recent years, what’s on the runway doesn't seem to be as important as what's on the streets. You know what they say, “city streets are the real runways.” People got tired of being told what to wear and what will be a trend. Street style became people's way of expressing themselves while sticking it to the fashion industry.

Essentially, fashion week’s street wear is making fashion shows obsolete. After all, it was Karl Lagerfeld who said “trendy is the last stage before tacky.”

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DESIGNER

OFFWHITE Written by: Katie Biggar 115 | Nu View

Virgil Abloh started the company as "PYREX VISION" in the city of Milan in 2012. After Pyrex Vision was exposed for blatantly printing "PYREX 23" on Ralph Lauren rugby flannel shirts and attempting to sell them for a lavish $550 price tag, the label was forced to drop the title of his company.

Abloh renamed the company Off-White, which he describes as "the grey area between black and white as the color off-white." Its collections have been seen at Paris Fashion Week and are available in Hong Kong, Tokyo, Milan, London, and New York department shops.

Since the release of his rebranded company, Abloh has forever changed the fashion industry by creating iconic everyday streetwear.

UNISEX Written by: Armana Haque Gender divided clothing is a thing of the past. Why put so much effort into finding the perfect oversized sweater in the Juniors section when you can easily find it in any men’s sweater section? And why can’t a guy get himself some new earrings from the jewelry section? It’s always been a trend for young people to thrift flip the clothing items they buy from any department or thrift store, and then tailor it themselves to their personal style. With oversized clothing and E-boy style becoming a trend in recent years, it calls for fashion gurus to start exploring out of the standard gender-divided apparel stores.

The simplest way that people incorporate unisex clothing items is by starting with the basics. Oversized tops, overalls, denim jackets, sweatshirts, baseball caps, and ankle boots are just some of the items that many people have sitting in their closets. A lot of apparel companies also understand that people are beginning to minimize their clothing purchases and want to buy a piece of clothing that they could style with a number of different outfits. Companies will try to make fashionable and unisex items a lot more marketable in their stores. Popular retailers like Asos and H&M have been incorporating more unisex items that reach a bit farther out from gender-divided clothing yet are very on-trend. Their women’s apparel have a lot more blazers and slacks available in a variety of styles, and their men’s apparel have products such as pink oversized t-shirts and jewelry in their men’s sections.

Gender fluidity movements have had a big impact on how these retailers try to market their apparel now. Now that social media is easily accessible and includes basic news and information on current events, people are becoming more educated on gender fluidity and the queer platform in general.

Fashion is starting to become a safe place for gender fluid folks to embrace themselves more in simple ways like not restricting the way they dress.

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This cultural shift is more than a trendy color. It is a whole new wave of inclusivity and acceptance for all. Plus-size fashion also grew exponentially during this new decade.

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Let's talk trends. How do they start? Where do they come from? From colors to cuts, each decade has its' own unique take on fashion and the 2010s is no exception.

"Millennial Pink" took the world by storm and became the most sought after color to have in your wardrobe by 2012. This is not only evidence of the popularity of pink, but also a cultural shift that took place during this time.

Fashion routinely aligns with societal changes and this particular trend points to the progress women have made and the acceptance of femininity.

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A light blush color that became the trendiest on the palette during the 2010s.

From clothing to couches, this shade of pink peaked in popularity across the board.

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Style was no longer about your size, but your confidence wearing it. Women were empowered to break the chains of old norms and not only accept, but love the bodies that they are in. The time had come for a real change in the way the fashion world worked and the inclusivity of the 2010s was just the beginning.

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Minimalism

Model: Daniela Chacon Photographer: Armana Haque

At this point, it seems this trend is taking over the world. But is it just a trend, or a lifestyle? Minimalism is the act of downsizing materialistic and nonmaterialistic items. We live in a world where everything is easily obtainable, especially with clothing. This has caused a huge stir in consumption. The thought of having the “latest trend” is constantly being fed to everyone, especially fashion lovers.

Something that minimalism has emphasized is building a staple wardrobe. This is the act of downsizing to buying items of clothing that are basic must-haves. An example would be a classic white button-up and one good pair of running shoes.

This focuses on the consumer to only utilize what they need rather than what they want. Many of the color schemes in a staple wardrobe are neutrals since they are easy to combine.

Just a Trend?

Minimalism is often viewed as "boring" or "safe" when we think of it in the fashion world. But when a true fashion lover can make so many outfits with just a few pieces of clothing in their wardrobe, can we still consider that boring? A better description of the minimalistic fashion lifestyle is CREATIVE. This lifestyle is beneficial when we have decision fatigue over our outfit plans. There is only so much you can choose from since you are limited with options. But at the same time, it pushes the boundaries of creativity by forcing one to find different mix-match outfit ideas. On top of decluttering your wardrobe, minimalism has a positive impact on the earth in terms of sustainability and under-consumption. Minimalism is not just a "trend." It is here to stay.

Written by Daniela Chacon

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Model and Author: Abigail Alexis Ramirez Photographer: Jacob Covarrubias

WESTERN

WEAR

Old Town Road, but Make It Fashion

It’s no secret that I have always been a fan of western wear. This is probably because I’m from Texas, so when I started to notice that western wear was getting a spotlight in 2020, I was ecstatic. I feel that this launch started back up with Lil Nas X’s “Old Town Road”.

In 2019 that is all you heard on the radio everywhere. Of course, the legend himself Billy Ray Cyrus was on this track and I am sure he had an impact on this style coming into 2020. This ubiquitous anthem was just the start of the pop-culture, yeehaw wave.

We saw this trend disperse like a bottle full of glitter into the sky. It was all over Instagram, sidewalks, and runways in the ending months of 2019. Western wear was even adopted by Gigi Hadid herself, who had her cute country pigtails on the cover of VOGUE. Going into 2020 we continue seeing hats and fringe everything, which is an absolute must!

Cow print is everywhere and I hope it's here to stay. Another print that I feel is here to stay is the snake print, that I'm wearing in this photo. This shoot was so much fun, and I had such a fun time styling it. My boots are crafted by none other than Lucchese. The fringe jacket that I paired with this fit was needed, and truly shows its beauty when the wind blows. Here you also see the snake print added with a white blouse so that it does not take much attention from the print. Lastly, I had to pull the Stetson hat out for this. This beautifully crafted piece of perfection is one of my favorite hats and the best part is, all of their hats are such great material. Speaking of, I need to go buy a new one.

This is how I see western wear in 2020 as a trend, but for me, this is forever. I read an article saying that the trend we may continue seeing with western wear is it combined with other textiles. I think it might lose its original touch if this is done wrong. I love western wear not only because I grew up in Texas, but because it’s a part of my culture. I won’t try to stray away from its origin, but fashion is fun and wherever this trend goes, I hope Gigi Hadid continues making it look good.

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THE ROYAL WEDDING

Writer: Armana Haque Stylist & Creative Director: Daniela Chacon Photographer: Brooklyn Patterson Models: Charlotte George, Sidra Ambreen, Alex Jones Clothing provided by Gowns of Grace

DESIGNER GOWNS Planning out the entirety of a wedding today is like trying to recreate the magical moments you see in all the happy-ending rom-coms. There have to be extravagant centerpieces, elegant wedding invitations, a magical backdrop, and most of all a jaw dropping wedding dress.

It's not uncommon today to have wedding dresses that stretch all the way from beginning to end of the wedding aisle and the veil being just as considerably long (yes, we're looking at you, Priyanka Chopra).

Bridal fashion has been booming with popularity since big fashion designers like Vera Wang and BHLDN by URBN expanded on their usual fashion line into bridal fashion as well. Since then, people have been more focused on the quality of the dresses they want for their own wedding. It's made more people want to make a bigger impact on the entire wedding experience to make it their actual dream come true.

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T Th he e R R ii s se e ,, G Gr ro ow wt th h ,, a an nd d C Cu um mu ul la at t ii o on n o of f S St tr re ee et tw we ea ar r t to od da ay y Written by: Sofia Greaves Photographer: Abigail Alexis Ramirez

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find it amusing that even as a fashion major, a fanatic for all things sartorial, on a daily basis I will reach for sweatshirts and track pants. There are many trends that have come out that I have never bought into. However, the subsection of fashion I will religiously subscribe to is streetwear.

Origins Streetwear comes from the world of great graphics, skateboarding, and hip hop. It is rumored that streetwear was born in Los Angeles because the city had a reputation for being cool and laid back thanks to surf culture. It has morphed into a gender-neutral interpretation of sportswear. Boxy details and intricate textures give the garments a glamorous edge. Streetwear is broad, but its key pieces include utilitarian jackets, tech-wear, sweatpants, sweatshirts, graphic tees, and many versions of sportswear. It's an easily accessible aesthetic that has been built on by designers. As David Fischer, founder of High Snobiety, once said “the barrier between street and luxury is now flattened.”

Cultural Influence Virgil Abloh gave streetwear a new prominence when he was elected creative director of Louis Vuitton men after his legendary collaboration with Kanye West to create the line, Yeezy. This was legendary because a historically high fashion brand at this point had never been run by

someone who did not have a background of working in ateliers for fashion houses. The idea of fashion was changing from an impossibly high standard to a dynamic and inclusive form of self-expression. This inspired fashion houses like Balenciaga to attract the customers of streetwear brands to the runway.

Social media changes the way we consume and are influenced. We now have immediate access to see what our favorite celebrities are wearing, and we don’t have to rely on the prominence of name brands to deem a trend longlasting. This phenomenon and its ideas are what solidified its place in youth culture. Streetwear, however, has been a male dominated style. There are far fewer brands catering streetwear to women. Isabel Hall took that trope and flipped it on its head by reimagining streetwear to fit the female body for her Spring/Summer when she started her brand in 2017. This counteracted and created new competition that challenges the infamous “shrink it pink it” mentality of including the female demographic when creating products.

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Years that will go down in history.

Photographer: Sophie Astronoto Models: David Fallgatter, Chandler Cook, Joet Dzvetero Jr.

THIS IS WHEN WE MAKE HISTORY Written by: Angelina Oliva

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When ringing in a new decade of beginnings, some can’t help but look back in reflection of what was. In the wake of the birth of 2020 was the evolution of change in society and the convergence of those societal issues with the fashion world. 2020 is progress, it is fearless.

Change has always been a conversation. It’s been said by the fashion world that society’s standards for women are unrealistic and demeaning, yet no one was brave enough to take the first steps in combating this notion. In the last ten years, this industry has finally put its foot down in efforts to embrace what’s right and make inclusivity and innovation the newest trend.

Inclusivity has become enormously essential to the success of fashion houses and mainstream brands. Victoria’s Secret tends to pop up in our minds when we think about diversity, or rather its lack thereof. This is where progress steps in. Fashion is too powerful to be silenced. The boycott of the idea that plus-sized and transgender models are not a fantasy was so strong that change really did happen. People made their voices heard and worked towards wanting companies to be more inclusive rather than "ideal".

I now look down at my March Vogue issue and see three spreads of models of all body types and skin colors all sporting Victoria's Secret lingerie, but Rihanna’s Fenty still dominates the lingerie scene now, as every asterisk of diversity you can think of encompasses the Fenty runway.

Designers know now that we’re not afraid to speak up anymore, especially with the current MeToo women’s movement that has come to inspire many runways. Bottega Veneta reminded me just how highly the fashion industry holds up and illuminates her. She sat alone above an ocean that possesses the same depth and consistency of life, yet remains unwavering—free.

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"Designers know now that we’re not afraid to speak up anymore"

Model: Chandler Cook

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This is one thing I adore about the fashion visuals of a new decade, a new perspective on how to combine societal movements with the essence of empowerment one gets when wearing a stunning pair of Manolo Blahniks.

Side-by-side with this new wave of inclusivity is innovation. Fashion sustainability is now at the top of the priority list for designers to include in their showcases. We now realize that environmental awareness has become a responsibility, and designers like Stella McCartney have brought this responsibility to the runway.

This evolution to preserve the world we live in is fashion in its purest form. What is fashion if not preservation?

The 2020 style itself has been following in the footsteps of nostalgia. It is praising the decades that came before by inspiring to recreate looks past with a modern twist. From Ralph Lauren’s recreation of the dream that was deemed “old hollywood,” to Marc Jacob’s desire of a new wave of renaissance, it is safe to say with every new decade comes a surge of admiration for the past.

Reaching a new milestone may mean remembering the rigorous process it took to get here. A place where progress is promised in the fashion houses and where the bettering of the world can be seen from the front row of a Marina Moscone show.

Creative Directors: Saarah Rahman and Don Davis Models: Rumaisa Siddiqui, Sophie Astronoto, Rawan Al Sulaimi. and Farah Zaman Photographer: Don Davis

Written by: Armana Haque

Modest fashion is the fashion trend where people, usually women, wear less skin-revealing clothing due to their personal choices, sometimes for their spiritual or religious beliefs. For many years people believed that women who wore hijabs and never showed their legs were being oppressed and forced to dress a certain way because of society and religion. Recently, however, social media and more education on Islamic and Jewish culture has allowed women to embrace their fashion, be empowered, and turn their modest style into their personal canvas. Women in all different careers are being noticed now because of not only their talent, but their choice to wear the hijab while doing it. space Halima is one of the most well-known Hijabi models in the fashion world right now. Mainly because of her debut on the cover of Vogue magazine. Since then, she has gained more recognition from world-renowned brands such as Nike and her friendship with the Hadid sisters. People became more interested in her background as well, where she’s gone in-depth about her life in Somalia before she decided to pursue a career in modeling. After Halima and other female empowerment figures, like Malala, became well known to the world, people started to appreciate modesty as fashion more. space Today, you’ll see popular fashion bloggers and TikTokers incorporating many layers in their outfits. Oversized tops, turtlenecks under deep V-neck tops, sweater vests over button-ups, and high-top shoes or boots have been popular combinations lately. Despite modest fashion requiring multiple layers of clothing, women are able to make their outfits appear almost minimalistic because of the simple color schemes they incorporate into their outfits. An example would be an oversized white button-up with black jeans, black timbs, and a black headscarf to top it off. Modest fashion has an endless amount of creative outlets for women that are inspiring more people to incorporate it into their daily style.

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While turning through these pages, we hope you were inspired, even surprised. We hope you learned something "NU". This magazine you are holding is a culmination of our ideas, creative spirits, and hard work. We love fashion, But our mission is for you to fall in love with it too!

NU VIEW MAGAZINE ISSUE 1 | $29.99