Secret Cities: Newcastle

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NEWCASTLE

Jasmine Plumpton

Memoriesof theMarket

OntheNunStreetsideoftheGraingerMarket, whereatonetimetherewasawonderfultoystallthat featuresinmanyaChristmasmemory,thereisa hiddendoor.Youcouldeasilywalkpastit,gazelocked onthebeautiful,barrelledroofwithgirdersthe colourofminticecream.

Perennials,shrubs,beddingplants.Youmightseeonly astallsellingflowers.Butbeneath,inthevastbellyof themarket,aretheremainsofaWorldWarIIbomb shelter.Aconcretestaircaseleadsdowntoit,starred nowwithglitterfromtheflowerstallChristmas bouquets.

Descendintothepast.It’scuriouslywarmandstrewn withtherelicsofdaysgoneby.Abrownleather suitcase.Awhitecottondress.Acupconspicuously settledonsaucerandtray,asifitsownerhadjust poppedoutforamoment.Thetunnelsarelinedwith oldwoodenbenches.Youcouldimaginehoursfeeling likedaysinthisconcretenetworksmellingofdamp andthedecades.

Butjustasmanytracesofthepastcanbefoundonthe marketfloor.Somesaythatplacesstorememory,like handprintsinwetconcrete,orthewaytreesholdthe yearsinringswithintheirtrunks.

It’sinthewalls –thememoryofababyelephant visitingtheoldRobinsonspetstoreontheClayton Streetexteriorofthemarket,inthefifties.Thevast crowdsdrawnbytheBritishMarylinMonroe-alike, Sabrina,whoarrivedinalimousinetoopentheshop. Thelittlehoneybear,awaitingpick-upbyacustomer, takenforwalksandphotographedinthe cheesemonger.AndalittlecatcalledSqueaky(whose realnameisBluebell).

They’reinthewalls –theechoesofcharactersthat havepeopledthemarketforalmosttwohundred years.Themanwhocouldnotgethisbirdseed.The gothladswhorifledthrough5pplectrumsatthe musicshop.Thelittlegirlghostwhosetinyfootsteps existperhapsonlyinrumour.Abeardedoldboywith hisjamjarofteaandanumbrellainlieuofawalking stick.Andacertaintitledlady,armedwithherbaby chimpanzee,onherwaytoFenwick’sfortheirdaily afternoontea.

Youprobablydon’tthinkofNewcastle’scherished GraingerMarketasavenuewithhiddendoors,butithasa few.Tumblethroughtherightoneandyouwouldfind yourselfascendingaconcretestaircasethatleadsrightup tothebarrelledglassroof.Thoughinaccessibletothe public,ametalladderbridgeleadsovertheroof’s signaturearch,fromwhichitispossibletopeerintothe marketbelow.

IfyouhappenedtobeupthereonecoldOctobernightin 1835,theviewdownwouldhavebeenoneofgrandeur. Backthen,theroofwasmadeoftimber,buthadyou lookedthroughoneofitslittlewindows,youwouldhave foundafeastunderway.

Tocelebratetheopeningofthemarket,ahugebanquet wasthrown;thinktablefulsoflocalproduceandpintsof ale(orwineforthemoregenteelguests.)Accordingtoa locallibrarianatthetime,themarketwas‘irradiatedby gaslight…decoratedwithflags…andinthecentrewere twomassiveandelegantlyshapedstonefountains.’

Amarkedlydifferentviewfromtoday’softhecircus-esque redandwhitestripedgreengrocerstalls,andoneortwo confused-lookingcafé-goers,wavingupbetweensipsof cappuccino

UpontheRoof

RaisetheRoof (ortheHoof)

ItisstillnotwidelyknownthatNewcastledoes actuallyhaveitsowncastle.Infact,thecityisnamed afteratimbercastlebuiltwheretheNewcastleCastle nowstands,backin1080.TheCastleisthesiteof manyfascinatingtales.Fromgrandfeastsandcaptive princessestoaroomthatwasonceusedasaholding cellforprisonerssentencedtodeath,later repurposedasanicecreamstoreroomfora confectionerontheouterwalloftheCastleKeep.The wallshavetrulyseenitall.

Upontheroof,thestoriesonlygetweirder.For instance,backinthe1700s,anentertainerflewfrom theroofonamakeshiftzipwire,jumpingoffatthe bottomwithanacrobaticleap.By‘makeshift’,we meanhestrappedawoodenboardtohischestand sliddownaropeheadfirst.

Itgetsstranger.Itoccurredtotheentertainerthatit wouldbegoodfuntotrythesamethingwitha donkey.Helaunchedittohecklesfromthegathering crowdonBaileyGate(nowStNicholasStreet.)The donkeydidnotlandwiththeentertainer’sacrobatic grace,butrather,onayounggirlwhowasinstantly crushed.Thenewspapersatthetimeblamedthe crowdforthenumerousinjuries-atimelywarning wasgiven!

Youwillbegladtolearnthatthedonkeydidinfact survivehisshortflight.

TheTyneandWearMetrosystemgetsthousandsofpeople aroundtheNorthEasttotheirdestinationseveryday,but thesystemisfarmorecomplexthanatypicalusercould imagineontheircommutetowork.Didyouknowthatif themetrowasnotventilated,theblastofairthat accompaniesthemetrototheplatformwouldlikelybe strongenoughtoknockyouoffyourfeet?Toavoidthis,the metronetworkisfittedwithasystemofventshaftsall overthecity.Actingastheessentiallungsofthemetro, theyallowthesystemto‘breathe’,evadingthatbuildupof airpressure.

Overtheyears,Nexushavefoundinterestingwaysto disguisetheseventshafts.Forinstance,onBlackettStreet, youwillfind‘Parson’sPolygon’,alistedartworkbyLeedsbornceramicartistDavidHamilton.Madefromterracotta bricks,thepieceisatributetoSirCharlesParsons, inventorofthesteamturbine.Anotherventshaftsits withinahollowed-outGeorgianhouseonOldEldon Square.Youmightnoticeitnexttimeyoupass,itsvent gratesusuallyoccupiedbyagangofpigeonsspyingfor scraps.

TheventilationshaftyouseehereistheoneonPrudhoe Street,betweentheHaymarketandMonumentmetros. Inside,itlooksverymuchlikeavasttunneltonowhere fromasciencefictionbook,butitservesavitalfunction forusmetrouserseveryday.

TheMetro’s HiddenLungs

At2pmeveryFriday,Newcastle’sCivicCentre comesalivewiththemusicofbells–from compositionsascomplexasHandel’s‘highbaroque’ arrangements,tothoseassimpleasHappyBirthday. Thebellsareconnectedtoakeyboardofsorts,made upofwoodenbatonsthatarestruckwiththeplayer’s fists,andtopedalsplayedwiththefeet.Thisisa wonderfulinstrumentcalledacarillon,theoriginsof whichtracebackaroundfivehundredyears,to BelgiumandtheNetherlands.

Ifmagichadasound,itwouldbethis.Thechimes soundliketransformationtakingplace.Thisisfitting becausethemusicofthecarillonderivesfromthe mechanicsofoldclocktowersthatwouldmarktime withlittletunes,sothatpeoplewouldknowthetime iftheymissedthestrikesonthehour.Thelittletune wasknownasdevoorslag,literally‘theproposal’,or preludetothehourstrike.Inthesixteenhundreds, someonedecidedtoliberatethecarillonfromitstime keepingduties,anditbecameamusicalinstrumentin itsownright.

HiddenInstruments: TheCarillon

Amusicianwhoplaysthecarillon(avocation requiringbothdelicacyandstrength)iscalleda carillonneur,orsometimesacarillonist.Jonathan BradleyisthecurrentcarillonneurfortheCivic Centre,wheretheworld’sheaviesttwo-octave carillonishousedinacopperbelltower,guarded fiercelybyacrownoftwentyseahorsescastin immortalbronze.Thebellsthatmakeupthecarillon weregiftedtotheCityCouncilbyJamesAdamson,in memoryofhiswife,EdithAnnieAdamson,in1963.

Jonsays:‘wheneverIplay,it’sinmemoryofEdith,it’s inmemoryofmytwopredecessors,andit’sforthe Adamsonfamily.Butalso,forme,it’sforthecitizens ofNewcastle,andthat’swhyIplay.’

Hedescribesthecarillon’smusicas‘everywhereand nowhere.Evocative.Haunting.Penetrating.Soulful.’ Astaggeringlydelicatesound,fortwenty-fivebells withacollectiveweightoftwenty-twotonnes.

Mythand Mastery

UnderthebelltowerthathousesNewcastle’s treasuredtwenty-fivebellcarillon,theCivicCentre boastsanimpressivecouncilchamber.Designedby thecityarchitectGeorgeKenyon,thelarge,round chamberlooksfromtheoutsidelikeagrandcraft fromanotherplanet.Besideitleansthebronze sculptureoftheRiverGod,guardianoftheRiver Tyne.Inthepast,riversweresaidtobeinhabitedby spiritsthatwouldbringprotectionandprosperityto thecommunitiessurroundingthem.TheRiverGod, createdbyDavidWynnein1968,hasturnedgreen andbrownovertimeduetoitsbuilt-inwaterfeature. Thisconjurestheillusionofhimrising,drippingfrom theTyne,coveredinthemossyhuesofthewater.

Insidethecouncilchamberisnolessotherworldly. Thewholespacewasmasterfullydesignedwith acousticsinmind.Coatedinaspecialkindofacoustic plaster,theceilingwascreatedtobouncethesound backdowntotheSwedishacousticmarblefloor,and allaroundthepanellingmadefromCedarof Lebanon.AllofthematerialsusedintheCouncil Chamberwerecarefullyselected.Theseatsarethe originalleatherhide,inaverymodernistjadegreen colour.Thecouncilconvenehereonthefirst Wednesdayofeverymonth

Themost secret ofspacesareourmemories.Thereare thosebrightmemorieswetakeoutoftentomarvel overandrelive.Therearethosewehoard,gatheringa featheryfilmofdust,justincasewemissthemsome day.Thentherearethosethatshimmerattheedges, readytopassoverintothe forgotten atanymoment, likethelostsecondsofamorningdream.

Ithasbeensaidthatabuilding,too,hasamemory. OnthefifthflooroftheDiscoveryMuseumisanattic wherehugewindowssiftsunlightontothedusty woodenfloor.Itisaspacepackedwiththelingering tracesoftheMuseum’spast–somerecent,some almostforgotten.

Ifyouweretotakeaninventoryofthisroom,you mightnotethebrokenwoodendeskwithmanytiny drawersfittedwithbrasshandles;rowsoffiling cabinetsfullofmysteryarchives,withlittlepaper signspenned,‘pleasekeep!’;anoldmapofNewcastle andGatesheadwithanornatecompassinonecorner; andseveralarched,latticedwindowsfullofsky.

Perhapsmostinterestingamongtheserelics,however, aretwohuge,oldlogbooksfortrackinglaundry. Thesewouldhavebeenutilisedbythenowdisused laundrette,leftoverfromwhenthebuildingwas BlandfordHouse—theheadquartersoftheNorth EastbranchoftheCooperativeWholesaleSociety.The buildingwastakenoverbythemuseumin1981.The remainsofthelaundrettearealsotuckedawayinside thelockedroomsoftheMuseum’smemory.

Insidethe Museum’s Memory

Thesehardy,oversizedbooksweremorerecently usedforaChristmaseventandnowdonthelabels ‘naughty’and‘nice’,butitisunlikelythatanyofthe childrenwhohadhopedtomakeitontothe‘nice’list wouldhaverelishedreceiving,amongothermundane items,‘cosycovers’‘curtains,coloured’,or‘hearth rugs’.

CoalShute,Fungi,Refuge

NewcastleUponTyneisknownasacityofbridges,but whatmanydon’tknowisthattherearejustasmany passagewaysbeneathourfeet.TheVictoriaTunnelisa subterraneanwagonwayunderthecity,runningfromthe TownMoorallthewaytotheQuayside.Toariotof applause(andacannonsalutetoboot!)thetunnelwas openedin1842,withanaimtomakethetransportationof coaltotheriversidefromLeazesMainCollieryeasierand lesscostly.Beforethetunnel,thecoalwouldhavehadto behauledthroughthecramped,cobblestonedstreets—a slowandlaboriousjourney.

Thetunnel,whichfollowsthenaturalpathofanancient riverbed,ranfor2.25miles,ofwhichonlyaroundhalfa mileisstillaccessibletoday.Ittookanimpressivetwo yearstocomplete,theclayemptiedoutbyhandandfired intobricksforthetunnel’sarch.Itonlyserveditsoriginal purposeforarelativelyshortperiodofeighteenyears beforethecollierywasclosedandthetunnellayforgotten (saveforabriefstintasanediblemushroomfarm)until 1939.

WhenWorldWarIIbrokeout,theVictoriaTunnelwas fittedwithconcreteblastwalls,electriclighting,and chemicaltoilets,readyforuseasabombshelter.The three-tierbunkbedsthatoncelinedthewallswouldhave leftscarceroomforevenachildtosqueezebetweenthe topbunkandthetopofthetunnel.

Rumourhasitthatamanwholivedthroughthefirst WorldWar,sufferingfromwhatwenowknowtobe PTSD,descendedintothetunnelatthefirstrumblingsof anotherwarandrefusedtoresurfaceagainuntila newspaperwasbroughttohimdeclaringthatthewarwas over.

NEWCASTLE

Bringingtogetherartisticphotographer AndrewBrooksand writerJasminePlumpton, Secret City:Newcastlesetsouttoresearch, explore,discuss anddocumentthelost,hidden andforgottenspacesof theCity.

Undertakingaseriesofresidenciesandexplorationsthrough thecityduring2024BrooksandPlumptonhave created18 new worksacrossNewcastlecommissionedfor NOVUM.

Theprojectprovidesaplatformandfocusforexplorationsof boththebuiltandimaginedspacesoftheurbanenvironment, enablingeveryoneinvolvedtoexperienceandinterrogatecities usingphotography,memoryandidentity.Runningworkshops andtrainingeventssimultaneouslyasanintegralpartofthe researchtheprojectaimstoactivateasenseofownershipinthe cityresultinginacelebrationofplace,embracingbothofficial andunofficialhistoriestorenewasenseofownershipfor citizenssooftenlostintheincreasinglyprivatisedpublicrealm ofcontemporarylife.

Theartistsaimtocreatenewnotionsofplaceswithin environmentsthatmayseemfamiliartothosenativetoaplace. Workingwithparticipantsfromthehostcitytheyalsoaimto repositiontheperceptionofwheretheyworkwithinthewider nationalandinternationalculturalconsciousness.Multi-layered yet accessiblefrommanyanglesSecretCitiesbringstogetherarts, heritage,museology,socialscience,anthropology,urbanism, architectureandeducationbyinvitingcommunitiesand creators totakeafreshviewoftheirphysicalandpsychological environments.Itbreaksdownsocial,economicandphysical barrierstoactivateforgotten,neglectedorignoredspaces.In doingsoitallowsbotholdandnewmeaning,memoryand identitiestotakeshape–bothwithinlocalcommunitiesandin themindsofthosefurtherafield.

Establishedin2008,SecretCitiesisaCuratedPlaceProjectthat hasexploredtownsandcitiesacrossEngland,Scotland,Iceland andtheNetherlands.TobringSecretCitiestowhereveryouare contacttheteamatCuratedPlace.

www.curatedplace.com

ABOUT THEARTISTS

AndrewBrooks

AndrewBrooksisaphotographer,filmmakeranddigitalartist basedontheedgeofthePeakDistrict.Hisphotographscapture landscapes,citiesandarchitectureinvivid,atmosphericdetail. Throughthisworkhesharesthestoriesoftheseplaces,capturing theirhistoriesinwaysthatconnectwithourmodernworld. WorkingwithCuratedPlace’sAndyBrydonsince2008onthe projectBrookshasexhibitedhisSecretCitiesexhibitionsacrossthe UKandtheNetherlandsanddeliversworkshopsandtalkswhere heshareshistechniquesfordocumentingplacesandlandscapes.

ExploremoreofAndrew’swork: www.andrewbrooksartist.com

JasminePlumpton

CreatingoriginalwrittenworkstoaccompaniesSecretCity: Newcastleimages,JasminePlumpton isapoetandwriterfacilitatorfromSouthShields.

SheisinherfinalyearofstudyforanAHRC-fundedPhDin CreativeWritingatNewcastleUniversity.Herpractice-led researchexplorestheinterplaybetweenpoetry,photography,and trauma.

TheSecretCity:Newcastleteamwishtothank: NOVUMProgrammeBoardMembers–AnandBhatt,JoBurke, TomCaulker,KateDenby,AlisonFlanagan-Wood,GailLawlor, VikkiLeaney,AndrewRothwell,LesleyStrickland,BenWhitfield andKateCraddock,NewcastleCityCouncil–JonBradley,Robert Hill,NinaJensen,LauraLindsay,JimMawdsley,AlastairMiller,Bill Nicholson,JaneRoseandGraingerMarketInspectors,Alastair Swan;Tyne&WearArchives&Museums–MalavikaAnderson, DanBaker,NickButterley,PaulFox,AdamGoldwater,Sheryl McGregor,KeithMerrin,AndrewParkin,BaggySingh;NEXUS–NeilGiles,HuwLewis,MichaelMason,DavidPunton,David Turnton;TheatreRoyal–AynsleyCowan-Youngandteam,Nathan Reynard,SeniorLeadershipTeam;OuseburnTrust–Maria Baranowska,EmilyToth;LiveTheatre–MichaelDavies,Dave Flynn,JacquiKell,RubyTaylor;NewcastleCastle–KaterinaGort Tarrús,DavidSilkandteam;NewcastleCathedral–TheVery ReverendLeeBatson,AmyCarrithers;NewcastleUnitedFootball Club–EddieRutherfordandteam;UrbanGreenNewcastle–DianaGates,DellaHadingham,CarolPryah;HistoricEngland; IglooRegeneration–InsiyahKhushnood;NorthumbriaUniversity –JulieCrawshaw,PatrickO'Doherty;Robinson'sPetStore–Nick Robinson, andtheCuratedPlaceteamAlisonBrodie,Ciara O’Connell,TeresaMcNamara,SilviaMorelli,ValentynaSturzova, AgustaThorarinsdottir.

AStormandaTeacup

You’veprobablyheardofearlgreytea,butdidyouknowit wasallegedlycreatedbyaChinesemandarinteamasterto counterthetasteofthehardwaterofNorthumberland?

Thecitrusyflavouringofbergamotwasaddedto traditionalteaandgiventoLadyGrey(thewifeofEnglish aristocratCharlesGrey)whotookittoLondonwhereit boomedinpopularity.

Grey’sMonumentwaserectedasatributetoCharles Grey,thesecondEarlGrey(hencethenameofthetea!) whohelpedtobringinthecontentiousReformActof 1832.ThisActsoughttogiveBritain’sindustrialtowns betterrepresentationinParliamentandtoincreasethe numberofmenabletovote.TheMonumentcomprisesa flutedcolumn,ontopofwhichastatueofCharlesGrey stands,surroundedbyanarrowviewingplatform.

ManyGeordiescherishchildhoodmemoriesofclimbing the164sandstonestepstothetoponaSaturdaymorning toflickpenniesdownatstrangers.Backthen,youcould payameagre50ptotumblethroughthetinyblackdoorat theMonument’sbaseandascendthespiralstaircase.

Fromthewhitearchofthemillenniumbridgetothelittle bluestaronwhatusedtobetheNewcastleBrownAle Brewery,theviewbeyondtherailingsissecondtonone. It’snosurprisethattheviewingplatformhasevenbeenthe siteofseveralproposalsovertheyears.Itisbestavoided duringastorm,however,asGreyhimselflearnedin1941 whenhis102kgheadwasstruckoffbyaboltoflightning, landingonthetramlinesbelow.Thankfully,noonewas injured.

ThestatuesurvivedtheWorldWarIIbombingsandhas weatheredmanythunderstormssince.

Ifyoulivenearby,youverywellmighthavechildhood memoriesofvisitingtheGreatNorthMuseum, knownlocallyasTheHancock.Thebookishsmellof dustandtime.Theoldmahoganycabinets,floorto ceiling,deckedwithrowsuponrowsoffascinating stuff.Avastgalleryofbirds,frozenintimebehind panesofglass.Oradisplayofathousandbutterflies, spread-wingedasifmid-flight.Thelatterdisplay would,inyearstocome,inspireacorridorofprinted butterfliesonthegroundfloor,eachdonningthe nameofapersonwhohasdonatedtothemuseum.

Apartofthemuseum’sstoryyoudidn’tseeonyour childhoodvisitisthearchaeologicalstore.Originally keptinNewcastleCastle’sBlackGate,thelocationof thestoreisnowtopsecret.Thousandsofyearsof historysitunstirredinthistinyspace.ThegoalofTyne andWearArchives&Museumsistokeepand preserveasmanyitemsaspossibletobeavailablefor futureresearchers.

Thestorecontainseverythingfromartisticrenderings ofarchaeologicalitemsin19thcenturywatercolours, toanolddisplaymodelofthebathhouseat Corbridge.ThereareseveralRomanalters,perhaps themostinterestingofwhichcontainsaninscription thatislikelyadedicationtothesun.Itwascreated withasmallholeforittopassthroughataparticular timeofday.

Amongtherelicstherearealsostacksofold publicationsaboutlocalexcavations,Tupperware filledwithsilicatoprotectthesmallmetalobjects inside,engravedstoneworkfromHadrian’s Wall,andevenaboxofprehistorichazelnuts,cooked andreadytobegrounddownfor‘flour’.

SecretStore

LiveVoices

Whilethe‘Julietbalcony’picturedherehasbeen featuredinperformancessuchasAmericanTroops (wheretheactorcameoutfromitonazipwire)and otherplays,wewanttotellyousomesecretsfromthe peoplewhomakethoseproductionspossibleatthe wonderfulLiveTheatre.Todoso,wehavecreatedthis shortpieceof‘verbatimtheatre’fromthree interviewsconductedwithpeopleimportanttothe theatre.‘Verbatim’isatypeofdocumentarytheatre constructedfromthewordsofrealpeople.

1.

MygranddadwasquiteimportanttoLiveTheatre.It’s reallynicetoconnectwiththepersonInevergotto meet.

Iwriteplaystoo,butInevergrewupinatheatrical household.

AlotofourholidayswhenIwasachildwereina campervan.RainyScottishislands,fiftysheep.Iwrote aboutthat.

Ilovethenoisyyouthgroups.Theymakeitallup themselves.

Theyrealisetheyhavetheabilitytoconjureaworld fromnowhere.

Likeaworldwhereyoucanonlyeatbakedpotatoes andbeans.Andalltherebelswantissandwiches.

You’reallinthesameimaginaryworld,andsomeone says,whatifthishappens?Andtheaudiencewillbe likeyes,webelieveyou.

2.

There’salittlebitofmeinmostofthisbuilding. Youknowhowpeoplehavecomfortzones?

Alotofthecluesareinthescriptforsounddesign. Youadddrama.Atmosphere.Youlocatethings. It’sjustbringingtherealworldintothetheatrical world,that’sall.

IfIshutup,andyoulistentotheworld…

3.

I’llwarmuponmytalltales.I’llgiveyoufactstoo. Youdecidewhichiswhich.

Let’sstartatthebeginning. Once,itwasamaritimemuseum,thenachandler’s. Astheworkerswatched,acrackappearedinthewall, andgraintrickledout.

Trinitycharerunsbehindthetheatre. ThewomanwhohauntsitistheGreyLady(they oftenare.)Thewayyoutellsheisaghostis,whenshe liftsherveil,shehasnoface.

Thisisourcommunitygarden,haveyouseenthe strawberries?

Behindthe Scenes

Ifyou’veevervisitedtheTheatreRoyal,you’llknowthe interiorisoneofopulentgrandeur.Oncedescribedbyan actorasbeinglike‘performinginsideofagiantwedding cake’,thestallsareatieredvisionofgoldandvelvet maroon.Itis,forallofitsvisitors,adenofdreams.A spacewhererealityisoverturned,andnewworldsare conjuredhundredsoftimesinayearonitsstage.

However,thiskindofwonderdoesn’tresultfrommagic, butfromanexceptionallyskilledteamworkingaroundthe clocktopullthestrings,literally.Abovethestagethereisa raisedareareferredtoas‘thelantern’,whichgivesyoua glimpseintotheinnerworkingsofthetheatre-an organizedchaosofcables,reels,andweightsforliftingand loweringthebeautifulworldstheaudiencesee.

Aroundtheperipheryof‘thelantern’therearesomevery oldwindows,heldshutbyalargemechanisminthe centre.Thesearethetrappingsofanoldfiresafetysystem thatwouldflingopenthewindowsinafire,releasingthe risingsmokeandbuyingaudiencememberscrucial minutestoescape.

Reflections

Purpose-builtfortheTyneandWearMetrosystem,the bridgewasopenedofficiallybyQueenElizabethIIin November,1981.Therearedizzyingarchivalphotographs ofthebridge’sconstruction.Buildingfromtheoutside-in fromthetwoopposingbanksoftheTyne,thecourageous workerssataloftadmiringtheviewfromitstwosections some25metresabovetheriver.Thebridgewasbuiltasa vitalconnectionbetweenNewcastleandGateshead,asan alternativetotunnellingbeneaththeTynewhichwould havebeenmoreexpensive.

Newcastleisacitywithanabundanceofbridges.Thereare sevenintotalthatstretchacrosstheRiverTyne,oneof whichbeingtheQueenElizabethIIBridge.It’stheonethe colourofasummersky,ifyou’rewondering.

LikemanyofusfromSouthShieldsorSunderland,perhaps youhavechildhoodmemoriesofsuperstitiouslylifting yourfeetupasyoucrosseditontheMetro,before trundlingintoCentralStation.

The4000-tonnesteelstructureisevenfittedwithaspecial jointthatallowsforittoexpandorcontractinextreme weatherconditions.

Theviewfromthetracksisespeciallyimpressivebynight, whentheTyneappearsthreadedwiththegolds,pinks,and purplesoftheotherbridges,reflectedinitsoil-black surface.

HereissomethingyoumightnotknowaboutJesmond, Newcastle’strendiestsuburb:itsnameisaportmanteau comprisingthewords‘Jesus’and‘mound’.Nowflockedto bystudentsforitsnightlife,accommodation,andabundant choiceofrestaurants,Jesmondwasonceanimportant placeofpilgrimage.

LegendhasitthatintheMiddleAges,anapparitionofthe VirginMaryappeared,carryingthebabyJesusinwhatis nowknownasJesmondDene.Newsofthesighting travelledquickly,andJesmondbecameknownasaholy place,drawingpilgrimsfromalloverthecountry.In responsetothis,StMary’sChapelwasbuiltinthe12th Century.AccordingtoVisitJesmond,thechapelwaslikely builttohousereligiousrelics,andtoactasaslipperchapel wherevisitorscouldleavetheirshoesbeforewalking barefoottoStMary’sRock,whereshewasrumouredto haveappeared.

Whilethechapelhashadvariousownersoverthe centuries,itwasreturnedtothepeopleofNewcastlewith theDeneinthelate1800sbyLordArmstrong,aBritish Engineer.Unfortunately,ofitsbeautifulsandstone structure,completewithchancelarch,onlyruinsareleft today.However,nowinthecareofUrbanGreen Newcastlethechapel remainsapopularsiteofreligious significancethatstillattractsthoseinneedofamoment’s peaceorprayer.

APeelforPeace

ThesiteofNewcastleCathedralstartedoutasaNorman churchin1091,builtinthesameperiodasNewcastle Castle.Eventually,thechurchbecameaCathedralandwas dedicatedtoStNicholas,thegenerouspatronsaintof children,sailors,andmerchants.Youmightknowitfrom thebeautifulornateredandgoldclockbelowitstower.

TheCathedral’ssignatureLanternTower,fromthe15th century,wasthemainguidinglightsourceforshipsonthe RiverTyneforcenturies,luringthecity’smentosafety throughmanydarkandfoggynortherndays.Duetothe timeofitsconstructionnotallowingforproper measurements,thetowerisasymmetricalandinthe19th century,wasfoundtobetiltingandhadtobereinforced withadditionalstructures.

Here,youseetheCathedral’swonderfulringingroom,a jumbleofcolourfulropes,commemorativeplaques,and flatcushionsforkneeling.Therearefourteenbellsaboveit, includingtheaptlynamed‘OldMajor’,ahugebellover6ft indiameter,andthe‘peacebell’,donatedin1914tobe rungwhenWorldWarIwasover.Didyouknowthatupto sevenbellsmustringfive-thousandandfortytimesforit tocountasa‘peel’?

Intheringingroom,thewallsarecoveredinthe Cathedral’s‘peelingboards’,whichtellofthespecial occasionsonwhichpeelshaveoccurred,suchas celebratoryorcommemorativepeelsfortheroyaland esteemed.ForArmisticeDay,NewcastleCathedralwasthe onlyCathedralinEnglandthatsourcedtwelvebellringers toringafullpeel,lastingafullthreehourslong.

PartoftheoriginalbuildoftheTyneandWearMetro System,StJamesmetrostationwascreatedtoservethe GeordiehavenofStJamesPark,wherefanssupporting NewcastleUnitedFootballClubflocktoeverymatchday inahugeblackandwhitearmy.StJamesmetrostationisa terminus,meaningitisthelaststopontheline.Onmatch days,themetrosstoppinghereareaseaofmonochrome withexcited‘lads’and‘lasses’donningtheirstrips.

Thoughtherewasanearlyideatoconnectthestadium withthemetrostation,thisideawasscrappedwhile planningwasstillinitsinitialstages.However,thetunnels weredugdeepdirectlybeneaththefootballstadium.Here youcanseethelargetunnelvoidoroverruntunnelatthe veryendofthelineatStJames,lookingbacktowardsthe brightplatform.Thestationitselfisdeckedoutin Newcastle’ssignatureblackandwhitestripes,picturesof playerspastandpresent,andthefootballclub’sfamous crest.

Otherthanonmatchdays,StJamesisknowntobea slightlyspookystoponthemetro,withNexusstaffdoing theirbestnottofindthemselvesalonethereneartheday’s close.Itcangeteerilyquietontheplatformsatnight,so farbeneaththeempty,echolessstadium.

NOVUMFestivalisfundedby:

SecretCity:Newcastlewasmade possiblethankstothesupportof:

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