South Olympics & South Puget Sound Hikes Guide

South Olympics Hikes Guide

Washington's Wild Side

Welcome to Hood Canal and South Puget Sound, a spectacular oasis of natural beauty teeming with parks, forests, and nature preserves. Hood Canal is the Lower 48th only natural sea-fed fjord, and within the expanses of the western edge of the Puget Sound inner basin, offers a wide array of pristine hiking trails to explore.

From islands and beaches to high wind swept Olympic summits, this area offers some of the best hiking terrain within the Pacific Northwest. Discover an expansive national park and vast national forest lands that include protected wilderness areas. Explore unique state parks, local parks and private (open to public) conservation preserves scattered across the entire region. This creates a diverse network of public lands containing

hundreds of miles of trails, much of which is easily accessible to hikers of all ages, abilities and backgrounds.

Whether you are a first time visitor, seasoned hikers, or lifelong resident, this guide will introduce you to some places to explore and provide insights on some of your favorite areas.

The 25 hikes spotlighted capture the full scope of destinations available for hiking in the area. Included are fairly easy level strolls as well as challenging butt-kicking jaunts.

“Most of our 25 hikes can be done in a day or 1/2 day and are easily accessible by vehicle. Many can be hiked year round. A few make for good overnight adventures or trail runs. There are hundreds of miles worth waiting to be explored. Grab your pack and hit the trail!”

When Craig Romano offered to share some of his favorite hikes with us, we were honored. If you’re looking for accurate details on Northwest hikes and wilderness destinations — and fun facts - Craig is the guy to know.

Craig Romano is an award winning author of more than 25 books on hiking in the Pacific Northwest. Craig is a keen advocate for trails in the northwest and has hiked and run trails all over the world; from Alaska to Argentina, Sicily to South Korea. He has logged more than 30,000 miles in Washington alone and concludes that some of the world’s best trails are right here in the Evergreen State. Content provider for Hikeoftheweek.com and Tread Map App, Craig also regularly contributes to Mountaineers Magazine, Washington Trails, The Mount St. Helens Institute’s Rumblings, and Tracing the Fjord. Craig lives with his wife and son in Skagit County.

PUBLICATION PHOTO CREDITS : CRAIG ROMANO AND RACHEL HANSEN

GETTING STARTED

Some of the area hikes involve easy terrain and distances that do not require any special preparations. However, other hikes can involve backcountry locations that require appropriate gear for a variety of conditions.

FOOD

can change rapidly within the Olympics. It’s not uncommon for a 70 degree warm morning to rapidly transform into a cool, windy and rainy afternoon. Be prepared for all conditions when hiking Hood Canal’s backcountry trails.

Always carry extra food. Granola bars, energy bars, and fruit are great trail snacks.

HYDRATE

It’s easy to dehydrate, especially on warm summer afternoons. Always carry water. To be safe, consider all sources of water in the backcountry to be contaminated. You can treat it purification tablets, a filtering pump, or other approved filtering device before drinking it.

FOOTWEAR

For most well-groomed trails, walking or running shoes should be sufficient. For wilderness trails or uneven terrain, hiking boots or trail running shoes are a must. Be sure that they fit properly and provide good support.

PACK

Make sure you have a good fitting and comfortable pack. Depending on the distance and difficulty of your hike, this can be as simple as a hip-hugging fanny-pack or a large multi-compartment backpack.

BE REALISTIC

Before setting out consider your fitness level. Be sure that you’re capable of the hike before heading out. A mile up a steep mountain is not the same as a mile on a flat paved trail. Although the latter may take you only 20 minutes to walk, the former may take you over an hour. Give yourself sufficient time to complete and enjoy your hike.

MAPS

The maps in this booklet are meant to help familiarize you with the trails and locations. They are not meant for navigation. Carrying supplemental paper maps or a GPS device is advised. (Green Trails Maps make excellent maps for the Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest.)

Online sources for trails include Tread Map App and the Washington Trails Association. Both of these sites are trusted sites for assessing current trail conditions. But even with the best guides and maps, be aware that trails and access roads can and do change. They can wash-out, be buried in snow, or destroyed by wildfire. Occasionally they’re closed for wildlife management or other reasons.

PERMITS AND FEES

Some of the hikes highlighted in this booklet are within Olympic National Park and require an entrance fee: currently $30 for a one-week pass (good for vehicle and all occupants), or $55 for an annual pass. A better option is to purchase an America the Beautiful Pass (also known as an Interagency Pass) for $80. This pass grants you and three other adults (children under 16 are admitted free) in your vehicle access to all federal recreation sites that charge a fee. These include: national parks, national forests, national wildlife refuges, and Bureau of Land Management areas, not only here in Washington but throughout the country. You can purchase these passes at many national park visitors’ centers and ranger stations including the Staircase Ranger Station entrance; or online at store.usgs.gov/recreational-passes.

If you plan to backcountry camp within Olympic National Park, you’ll need a wilderness permit available online or at the Staircase Ranger Station (limited hours) and Port Angeles Wilderness Center. More information can be found at nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/ wilderness-reservations.htm

Many of the hikes in this booklet are in the Olympic National Forest and require a pass to park at the trailhead. You can either use a Northwest Forest Parking Pass or an Interagency Pass (America the Beautiful Pass, Golden Age Pass, or Golden Access Pass).

Northwest Forest Passes currently sell for $5/day or $30/annual and are good at National Forest sites that charge a parking fee.

In any case be sure to purchase your pass before you arrive at the trailhead. You can purchase Northwest Forest Passes at most national forest ranger stations, from several outdoor retailers and area businesses or online (https:// www.fs.usda.gov/main/r6/passes-permits).

Several hikes in this booklet are within Washington State Park lands and require a Discover Pass, which you also display on your rear view mirror. These sell for $10 per day or $30 for an annual pass and are good at all state parks, DNR lands, and Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife properties. You can purchase one from several outdoor retailers and businesses or online (discoverpass.wa.gov).

FURTHER READING

Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula, Backpacking Washington, Urban Trails Kitsap County, and Urban Trails Olympia (Mountaineers Books), Craig Romano.

Trail Etiquette

Many of our trails are also open to uses aside from hiking. You can expect to also encounter equestrians and mountain bikers along the way. For a great experience and minimum impact, some rules of etiquette are in order.

YIELD TO HORSES: Step off the downhill side of the trail if feasible. Talk in a normal voice to the riders and keep your dog under control.

DON’T CUT SWITCHBACKS: It causes erosion and damages vegetation.

STAY ON TRAILS IN SENSITIVE AREAS: Don’t leave the trail to hike across alpine meadows, wetlands or other sensitive areas as this can damage and kill fragile and endangered plants.

OBEY THE RULES: Know the specific rules and regulations (like in Wilderness areas) pertaining to the trail you’re hiking and adhere to them.

AVOID DISTURBING WILDLIFE: Always observe wild animals from a distance to not only avoid disturbing them but also protecting yourself from an unpleasant encounter.

TAKE ONLY PHOTOGRAPHS: Leave all natural things (like wildflowers), and historic artifacts as you found them for others to enjoy.

NEVER ROLL ROCKS OFF TRAILS OR CLIFFS: You risk endangering others below you.

CAN THE CAIRNS: Don’t stack rocks as it can confuse people thinking they’re directional and causes environmental damage.

MIND THE MUSIC: Wear earbuds if you listen to music on the trail as loud music harasses wildlife and is an affront on those who come to the woods to seek solace.

THE SCOOP ON POOP: Use restrooms when available and if you need to heed the call of nature while out on the trail, heed at least 200 feet from any water source or trail. Be sure to bury your waste.

PACK IT IN, PACK IT OUT: Anything you pack in must be packed out, even biodegradable items like apple cores and pistachio shells.

Lake Lena Trail Child & dog friendly lower lake); pass required - details 48.

WHAT ABOUT DOGS?

Dogs can make wonderful hiking companions, but an unruly dog can be a nightmare for other hikers and the environment.

Do your best to be a responsible dog owners by adhering to the special rules and regulations in place pertaining to dogs on the trail. Most of the trails in this guide are open to dogs but dogs are prohibited on the Olympic National Park trails listed. They must be on leash on state park property and several other hikes in this guide. They should always be under control. Please obey all leash laws. Too many dog owners flagrantly disregard this regulation, setting themselves up for tickets, and hostile words from fellow hikers. Be aware that many hikers are not fond of dogs on the trail. Respect their right not to be harassed by a loose dog. Another huge point of contention with dogs on the trail pertains to their waste. Too many dog owners do not clean up after their pets. Many leave bags of poop behind on the trail. Pack it all out. Dog waste is unsightly and fouls water sources.

LEAVE NO TRACE

While hitting the trail we should all strive to have the smallest impact as possible on our public lands. The Leave No Trace Center for Outdoors Ethics is a nonprofit developed for responsible enjoyment and stewardship of the outdoors. They have designed a program to educate outdoor enthusiasts of their recreational impacts as well as created techniques to prevent and minimize such impacts. Their message is framed under

Visit www.lnt.org to learn more.

Finally; have fun! Enjoy the wonderful hiking trails around Hood Canal and South Puget Sound. They are among some of the finest and most scenic in the country. Happy Trails!

Mount Walker Lookout

Accessible by vehicle during summer months; by trail year round. - details 62.

Murhut Falls, stream view Great family hike with a waterfall award at the end, hike details, 55.

01. MARY E. THELER WETLANDS

NATURE PRESERVE

Spend a day exploring Mary E. Theler Wetlands Nature Preserve located at the farthest reaches of Hood Canal. Here the Union River flows into the fjord creating a diverse wildlife rich estuary. The preserve along with an adjacent Washington DFW parcel protects several hundred acres of critical habitat which sustains a myriad of wildlife. Wander a network of bridges and boardwalks observing scores of bird and mammal life including, eagles ospreys, herons, swallows, deer, coyotes and otters along the three miles of trails.

Start your hike on the Rock Wall Trail which leads .25 mile to the Wetlands Project Center. Explore the native plant demonstration garden and the reconstructed gray whale skeleton. There are also outdoor art displays.

From the center several trails radiate throughout the wetlands for loop and out and back options. The 0.1 mile Sweetwater Creek Trail passes several interpretive displays. The .25 mile South Tidal Marsh Trail follows a boardwalk to the observation deck at the12 edge of Hood Canal providing excellent views of southern Olympic Mountain peaks.

The 0.3 mile Alder Creek Swamp Trail loops back to the nature center after traversing wetlands on a boardwalk. It ties into the River Estuary Trail which travels along an old dike across open wetlands. Follow it through a tunnel of shrubs and along active farmland to the mouth of the Union River. At its second sharp turn come to a junction with a trail which travels for a half mile back to the River Estuary Trail completing the loop. The River Estuary Trail continues to the river crossing a channel on a big bridge.

Highlights: Exceptional birdwatching; ADA accessible Distance: 3.0 miles of trails Elevation gain: 40’ Difficulty: Easy Permits: None Season: Year round Notes: Open dawn to dusk, no dogs, great for kids Trailhead Amenities: Privies, benches, boardwalks, outdoor education center

It eventually follows alongside the nutrient rich Union River and comes to a small picnic area and privy. Beyond are two short spurs. The one on the left leads to a cedar grove at the river’s edge granting prime salmon spawning viewing. To

GPS waypoint: N47 26.286 W122 50.194

Contact/Map: Theler Community Center Directions: From Shelton follow SR 3 for 22.5 miles to trailhead at the Mary E. Theler Community Center in Belfair. Center is located 0.5 north of junction with SR 106.

UnionRiver

Salmon Center (Open to the Public)

Bark Park (Open to the Public)

1. Theler Wildlife Wetland

Belfair | 22871 NE Hwy 3 | thelercenter.org

Enjoy 139 acres of wildlife rich estuary in the Union River Delta at the farthest reaches of fjord-like Hood Canal. The preserve contains five distinct trails that utilize levees and bridges across channels and creeks. The main path leads to a Wetlands Project Center and a native plant demonstration garden. NO PASS

2. Potlatch State Park

Potlatch | Hwy 101 near Hoodsport

Potlatch consists of 84 acres on the Canal at its bend just north of the Skokomish River Delta. The delta consists of estuary, riparian forests and extensive wetlands. It hosts populations of several avian species including a great blue heron rookery. In the spring watch for dowitchers, western sandpipers, and Wilson’s snipes. DISCOVER PASS

3. Twanoh State Park

Hood Canal | Hwy 106, Union / Belfair, IBA

With 182 acres of mature forest and shoreline, the park retains many of its Depression-era CCC structures. It contains 2.5 miles of trails that traverse cedar groves and a lush emerald ravine cradling a salmon-spawning creek. The canal’s much warmer here than to the west and north attracting large populations of waterfowl. DISCOVER PASS

4. Jarrell Cove State Park

Harstine Island | Forests and bluffs on a quiet cove, the park’s uplands provide excellent habitat for songbirds. Look for creepers, finches, flycatchers, nuthatches, towhees, and vireos in the forest. Hike down to the docks for some great cove views—and to spot goldeneyes, grebes, kingfishers, mergansers, loons, scaups, and gulls. DISCOVER PASS

5. George Adams Hatchery

Skokomish | 40 W Skokomish Valley Rd

WDFW 30-acre riparian corridor of conifers, deciduous foliage. Wood Ducks highlight spring birding. Autumn berries beckon flocks of Cedar Waxwings. Wintering ducks: Buffleheads, Common and Hooded Mergansers. NO PASS

6. PANHANDLE LAKE 4H CAMP

Shelton | 370 W Panhandle Lake Rd

Private 450-acre woodland sanctuary of old conifers amid clear-cut. Spring attractions include Wood Ducks, Wilson’s Warblers, Black-headed Grosbeaks, Tree and Violet-green Swallows, American Goldfinches. Check snags for Northern Flickers; Downy, Hairy, and Pileated Woodpeckers, and Pine Siskins, Dark-eyed Juncos, Black-capped and Chestnut-backed Chickadees, Redbreasted Sapsuckers. NO PASS

7. Oakland Bay County Park

Shelton | Four mile long narrow and shallow estuary, Oakland Bay is one of the most productive shellfish growing areas in the country. While the WDFD property and adjacent Bayshore Preserve on the northern shore of the bay is a good place to scope for birds, the county park directly across the bay offers a wilder setting and good trail system. From the trailhead hike through old-growth trees and an old orchard to the historic 1892Malaney-O’Neill House on a bluff above Oakland Bay. Walk the path behind it to overlook the mudflats and oyster beds. NO PASS

With a majestic and varied landscape, Hood Canal and South Puget Sound are the perfect place to search for the over 250 species that call it home. Chock full of life – birds like bald eagles, rhinoceros aucklets and more – this is a birder’s paradise!

8. SKOKOMISH DELTA

Skokomish River Delta Shore hosts flocks of Dunlins; on saltwater, find Marbled Murrelets, Canvasbacks, Northern Pintails; Common, Red-breasted, and Hooded Mergansers; Buffleheads, Goldeneyes, Black, Surf, and Whitewinged Scoters; in marsh are Gadwalls, Greenwinged Teals, Northern Shovelers. Bald Eagles, Ospreys, Peregrine Falcons, Northern Harriers, Red-tailed Hawks, Short-eared Owls. Early spring brings Longbilled Dowitchers, Wilson’s Snipes, Western Sandpipers. NO PASS

9. DOSEWALLIPS STATE PARK

Brinnon, WA | 306996 Hwy 101

Over 1000 acres of wildlife habitat along the Dosewallips River at its delta on the fjord. Explore rich tidal wetlands, riparian forest, and mature forest. Follow the short and flat North Tidal Trail across salt marshes to an observation deck.

DISCOVER PASS

#WILDSIDEWA

10. Kennedy Creek Preserve

Kamilche, WA | 1350 SE Old Olympic Hwy IBA (Important Birding Area)

340 acres of salt flats on Oyster Bay at its confluence with Kennedy and Schneider Creeks. Inlet has one of Puget Sound’s largest flocks of wintering black-bellied plovers. Kennedy Creek produces up to 80,000 spawning salmon. The salmon carcasses wash downstream to the estuary providing food for eagles, and other animals. DISCOVER PASS

OLYMPIC BIRDING LOOP

The Olympic Peninsula region is the ideal destination to explore unique places that these birds call home. Trail advocate, Craig Romano, shared 25 of his favorite bird viewing destinations around the Olympic Peninsula loop: olympicbirdtrail.com

ROOSEVELT ELK of this area tend to congregate close to where Lake Cushman meets the Skokomish during the fall, winter and spring months, when the snowpack limits travel upriver, the elk. Those who frequent Dosewallips State Park and the town of Brinnon in the fall, winter and spring months commonly see elk roaming the open areas, even crossing Hwy 101.

THE OLYMPIC MARMOTS,

typically live above 4,000 ft in elevation and tend to thrive in the Olympics at around 5,000 to 6,000 ft. Marmots hibernate during the cooler weather seasons, giving you just a few months over the summer to catch a glimpse of these endemic giant ground squirrels.

BLACKTAIL DEER

, a subspecies of the mule deer (named for their ears which are large like those of a mule). Blacktail deer feed on grasses, lichens, plants, and sometimes berries. Oddly enough, around the Staircase Entrance to the National Park they are particularly unbothered by humans. They will stand in the middle of the road, as in this photos, and gaze calmly at you. Don’t be fooled, though, they are very much still wild and you must always give them space.

BEAR AND COUGARS

Although sightings are rare, the trails and communities near Lake Cushman and Mount Rose have spotted mountain lions in recent years, especially during the spring and summer months. Bear generally visit river and creek drainage areas, especially in fall.

02. TWANOH CREEK LOOP TWANOH STATE PARK

Famous for its large beach on Hood Canal with some of the warmest salt water in the state, many who flock to this park, go straight to the beach or the campground, leaving the 182-acre park’s hiking trails pretty quiet.

Locate the trailhead and start hiking on a wide trail through a cluster of rhododendrons. The way parallels gurgling Twanoh Creek which forms a small delta on the park’s beach. The trail soon comes to a junction.

Here a side trail crosses the creek on an attractive bridge and reaches the campground—an alternative start if you’re camping in the park.

The main trail continues straight through a tunnel of rhododendrons and a grove of big cedars. It then begins working its way up a small ravine cradling the small creek. While this ravine was logged in the past, the second growth forest here is now quite mature.

At .3 mile come to a junction for the loop.

While you can go either way, head left for a clockwise loop and a gradual ascent and transition out of the ravine. As you ascend out of the tight draw, the salal and evergreen huckleberries thin out.

It’s much drier on the ridge above the ravine. After two switchbacks, the trail reaches the head of the ravine. Now head right following an old woods road.

The walking is easy going. Slowly descending come to a group campsite. Then come to another junction. The old road continues straight leading back to the Day Use Parking Area and can be used as an alternative return.

The loop continues right on a switchback descent back into the ravine. Take it passing by a few big old Douglas firs and clusters of leathery-leaved rhododendrons. Reach the loop junction and head left back to the trailhead—and perhaps a trip to the beach.

Highlights: CCC built structures, ravine above Hood Canal, Pacific rhododendrons Distance: 2.3 mile loop Elevation gain: 400 feet Difficulty: Moderate Permits: Discover Pass

Notes: Open all year, dog-friendly; great for families, beach and stream Trailhead Amenities: Campground, water, privies, picnic area GPS waypoint: N47 22.661 W122 58.395

Contact/Map: parks.wa.gov/294/Twanoh

Trailhead Directions: From Skokomish on US 101 follow SR 106 east for 12.5 miles to trailhead located before campground entrance.

To Union Group Camp Sites Twanoh Cre e k

Hood Canal

Swim beach launch Parking

03. MCMICKEN ISLAND

HARSTINE ISLAND & MCMICKEN ISLAND STATE PARKS

There is no bridge or ferry service to little McMicken Island in Case Inlet, but you don’t need a kayak or boat to visit. When the tide is low, a sandbar connecting the island to the mainland (or in this case another island) is exposed allowing you to hike to the island. Hike the island’s small half mile trail, picnic in its small meadow, and explore its rocky intertidal zone. But be aware of an incoming tide, lest you end up stranded.

Start your hike from Harstine Island State Park taking the trail on the eastern end of the parking lot. The trail heads towards Case Inlet along the edge of a 100’ high forested bluff. It descends into a cool and dark ravine graced with big cedars and firs and reaches a junction. Head left here through a row of big cedars and via a series of steps descend into the ravine. After crossing a creek reach a deserted beach. Directly east lies Herron Island and the Key Peninsula. Look south to McMicken Island against a backdrop of Mount Rainier.

If the tide is high, you’ll have to wait to hike the beach as overhanging trees prohibit passage. But in a low tide, a big wide beach awaits your footprints. Walk for more than a mile undulating between cobbles, mud and sand and crossing a handful of creeks. Look for eagles, herons and a myriad of seabirds. The entire way is on public tidelands. But a parcel of private property located between two large state park properties abuts the shoreline. Respect this posted private property.

The tombolo (sandbar) is distinctive in low tides. But in high tides it is completely submerged.

It’s really fun to hike across when a receding tide first reveals it. Tap your inner Moses and part the seas watching the land bridge emerge as you cross it.

Once across the sandy strip, reach McMicken Island. All of the island except for a small fenced parcel with a couple of cabins is state park property. At the island’s western end is a picnic area in a grassy opening. Near a composting toilet at the eastern edge of the field is a small nature trail. Hike it weaving a half mile through towering firs and madronas to bluff top views on the eastern end of the island.

If time permits explore the rocky tide flats surrounding the island. Be sure to keep track of the incoming tide so you don’t get trapped on the island.

Harstine Island

04. BAYSHORE PRESERVE

The Bayshore Preserve sits on a small peninsula in Oakland Bay. Once a golf course, but thanks to the Capitol Land Trust, Squaxin Island Tribe and a handful of other partners, this small peninsula on Oakland Bay has since been restored to a natural state. Protecting critical wildlife habitat, the preserve is also culturally important. The peninsula once housed a Squaxin Island Tribe village and according to several elders and historians, one of the largest longhouses on Puget Sound.

The old greenways have been restored to native prairie grasses and much of the old golf course’s infrastructure has been removed. And while small in area, the preserve contains a large array of ecological diversity including: a salmon-spawning creek, productive salt marshes and mud flats, old-growth firs and Garry oaks, prairie, and more than 4,000 feet of shoreline.

There are about 1.5 miles of marked well developed paths traversing the 74-acre preserve. The Main Loop Trail travels triangularly through the property for 0.8 mile. Follow it through native grasses and along colonnades of gigantic old Douglas firs and Garry (Oregon White) oaks.

Numerous spur trails deviate from the loop. The 0.2 mile Lookout Trail crosses Johns Creek on a sturdy bridge and proceeds through a forest grove to end along the creek bank. It’s an excellent trail for observing November chum runs. The .25 mile Johns Creek Trail is another fine choice for salmon watching. The Johns Creek Estuary Trail leads a short distance to extensive tidal flats at a small estuary where Johns Creek flows into Oakland Bay.

The Main Loop passes by restored salt flats. Public entry is not allowed in this sensitive wildlife area, so have binoculars in hand to scout the area for birds from the trail.

The Main Loop then passes through a row of big Douglas-fir before reaching a junction with the Shoreline Overlook Trail. Hike this path for a pleasant short loop to excellent views of the shallow waters of Oakland Bay’s northernmost reaches.

The Shoreline Overlook Trail leads to the adjacent WDFWs Oakland Bay property. Recreational harvesters (with permits) can collect clams and oysters here. Check to make sure the beach is safe before harvesting (fortress.wa.gov/doh/ biotoxin/biotoxin.html).

JohnsCreekEstuary

Shoreline Overlook Trail

Highlights: Exceptional birdwatching, restored prairie habitat, salmon spawning creek and estuary

Distance: 1.5 miles of trails Elevation flat

Difficulty: Easy Permits: None Season: Year round

Notes: Please stay on trails and respect all closed areas. Open from dawn to dusk. No removal of plants. Kid and dog Friendly: yes Amenities: Privies

GPS waypoint: N47 14.939 W123 02.655

Contact/Map: Capitollandtrust.org

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel east on SR 3 for 3.8 miles to trailhead located on your right (directly across road from Bayshore General Store). Parking is limited. More parking is available in the adjacent Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Oakland Bay Recreational Area (Discover Pass required).

SALMON

Each fall millions of migratory salmon return to their home streams to lay eggs. After swimming upstream to their spawning ground the female chooses a spot in the shallow, but swift flowing part of the river that is highly oxygenated, called the riffle. In some of the inland streams that location can be many hundreds of miles up past rapids and impediments.

Here she digs a depression in the gravel that will serve as her nest or Redd. After the eggs are laid in the redd, the male will deposit sperm over them, and the female covers the eggs with gravel. A female may create as many as seven redds before she is finished spawning and each redd may hold as many as 5,000 eggs.

As soon as the salmon enter the fresh water their skins begin to change color, their sexual dimorphism enhances, they stop eating and they begin their decaying process. A migrating salmon lives for about two weeks after entering the freshwater.

The carcasses provide a food source to other animals and small invertebrates who in turn provide food for the salmon fry (baby salmon) as they get older. The nutrients given off by the rotting carcass are important fertilizers to the plants and trees growing on the banks, which provide essential root systems that prevent erosion and protects the streams for further generations of salmon.

Bayshore Preserve | Shelton

John’s Creek is an excellent trail for observing November chum runs.

Kennedy Creek Trail | Kamilche

Known as “Place of the Singing Fish” by the Squaxin Island Tribe due to the resonant singing of the frogs.

Salmon Center | Belfair

Exhibits on ecology and records returns of adult summer Chums on the Union River.

Twanoh Creek | Hood Canal

In Twanoh State Park offers good vantage points to view running salmon.

Purdy Creek | Skokomish

The WDFW George Adams Fish Hatchery. Annual spring release of 500,000 juvenile Coho.

Hoodsport Hatchery | Hoodsport

The WDFW offers popular Chum salmon fishing classes from the beach out front of the hatchery.

Goldsborough Creek | Shelton

Quilcene National Hatchery | Quilcene

The hatchery increased Steelhead populations of the Puget Sound.

VIEW WDFW.WA.GOV/SALMONSCAPE FOR MORE.

05. LAKE ISABELLA STATE PARK

A former farm on the eastern shore of Lake Isabella, this undeveloped Washington State Park property contains more than 4 miles of lightly-used trails. Within this 182-acre park wander on paths through old pastures, orchards and woodlots. The setting is quite pastoral and one you’re likely to share with resident deer.

Delight Park Road bisects the park. Explore trails north and south of the road and form your own loops. In the northern half of the park walk a faint old farm path across the large rolling field to the old homestead. Enjoy good views of the lake, but there are no paths down to its shore. The shoreline is cloaked in thick vegetation and there are lots of seeps on the steep slopes leading down to it.

From the homestead a delightful old farm road leads east climbing a forested hill and eventually leading to Meyenburg Drive.

Another path veers from it to enter an old orchard on the edge of the big rolling field with lake views. From here you can walk along the edge of the field back to the trailhead. The walk around the field is about 0.8 mile. You can add an extra half mile or so by following the woods roads east of the fields.

South of the Delight Park Road find more trails and loop options. Follow an old farm road or walk east on the field periphery path 0.1 mile, take a right onto another old farm road which ducks under the Delight Park Road.

Both of these approaches soon meet up in the forest from where you can continue to a big beautiful field. Here you can follow a path around the periphery of the field for a half mile.

Here too you can follow another old farm path south from the field. It comes to a Y-junction and then heads

left skirting an upper fallow field being taken over by Scotch broom; before coming to a junction. The straight path continues south leaving state park property. Head right instead and follow another path north alongside a big wetland returning to the Y-junction.

underpass

LAKE ISABELLA

Winsels Road

West Delight Road

To SR3

Meyenburg Drive

Lake Isabella

Old farm site Open field

Highlights: Historical farmlands, peaceful, lakeside, natural area minutes from Shelton

Distance: 4.0+ miles of trails Elevation gain: 100 feet

Difficulty: Easy Permits: Discover Pass Season: Year round Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes Amenities: Privy, benches

Trailhead GPS waypoint: N47 10.117 W123 06.610

Contact/Map: Masoncountywa.gov/forms/parks/trails_map.pdf

Trailhead Directions: From US 101 take Olympic Hwy (SR 3) Exit in Shelton. Head west following Golden Pheasant Rd for 0.9 mile. Turn right onto Delight Park Rd and continue for 0.6 mile to trailhead and parking on your right.

06. SCHAFER FOREST TRAIL SCHAFER STATE PARK

Tucked along the East Fork Satsop River in extreme southwestern Mason County, Schafer State Park is off-the-beaten path. While this park is far from population centers, it was a thriving spot for many years. In 1872 the Schafer Family came from Wisconsin to homestead here. Three of their sons, Peter, Albert and Hubert begin logging the homestead in the 1890s.

They formed Schafer Brothers Logging which would grow to be one of the largest timber operations in the Northwest. They had five sawmills at one time served by six logging camps and more than 100 miles of railroad line. At the company’s height it employed 3,000 workers. In 1955 the company was bought by the Simpson Timber Company.

The Schafer family held many family gatherings at what is now the state park.

They donated this parcel to the state in 1924, and it continued to host many large company gatherings as well as other groups. Today the park is much quieter, but families still come here to gather. The park’s trails however tend to remain pretty peaceful.

Locate the trailhead for the Schafer Forest Trail near the park’s entrance. Then follow it crossing the Satsop River on the road bridge.

Highlights: Historic homestead; trail along Satsop River; salmon spawning creek and estuary

Distance: 1.3 mile loop Elevation gain: 75 feet

Difficulty: Easy Permits: Discover Pass Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes Season: All year Amenities: Privy, picnic tables, water, campground, interpretive signs GPS waypoint: N47 05.886 W123 27.965

Contact/Map: Schafer State Park; parks.wa.gov/580/Schafer

Trailhead Directions: From Elma head west on the Monte Elma Road for 4.0 miles to Satsop. Then turn right onto East Satsop Road and drive 7.8 miles bearing left onto Schafer Park Road. Continue 0.2 mile and turn left into Schafer State Park and park at Day Use Area near park entrance.

The trail then comes to a small meadow where it splits. Head right along the river and come to a good viewpoint above an area of small rapids. Past flooding has eaten away at the banks here causing the trail to be relocated. Continue to a junction. The way left is a shorter 0.6 mile option. Continue straight instead for the longer 1.3 mile loop. The trail climbs a series of terraces passing through attractive mature forest. It meets up with the short loop and then swings around to return to the meadow.

If you want to hike some more, wander through the park checking out interpretive displays and historic structures including a restroom built with fieldstones. The park’s .3 mile River’s Edge Trail is quite pleasant.

Schafer Farm Trail

07. SPIDER LAKE OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

A long slender lake tucked within a narrow valley on the Skokomish–Satsop River divide, Spider is graced with groves of ancient giant old-growth forest. The trail around the lake is a remnant of a longer trail that once traversed miles of primeval trees. Most of those trees have since been logged, and the trail truncated to the lake. The remaining trail has since been restored and the forests on the surrounding hillsides are regenerating nicely.

Due to its low elevation, Spider Lake makes for a good hike year round. But early summer is an exceptionally good time to visit when dwarf dogwood and queen’s cup blossoms blanket the forest floor with white bouquets.

Starting from an unassuming trailhead immediately enter cool old growth forest and soon come to a junction. Turn right (although either direction will work), cross the outlet stream and reach Spider’s western shoreline.

Now saunter along passing big trees and good viewpoints of the placid lake. Gaze up at the surrounding ridges. The intensively logged surroundings offer quite a contrast to the virgin groves surrounding the lake.

After an easy mile, cross a small creek and come to a junction. The trail right steeply climbs a short distance to an alternative trailhead. The loop continues left traversing above the green waters of the lake and beneath the

emerald canopy of ancient behemoths. Along the lake’s eastern shoreline the trail climbs a bit across a steep side slope. After crossing an impressive high log bridge, begin descending back to lake level.

Cross a stream in a marshy area and return to the first junction. Then head right to return to your start.

Highlights: Old-growth forest Distance: 2.0 mile loop

Difficulty: Easy Elevation gain: 250 feet Permits: None Season: Year round Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: None

GPS waypoint: N47 24.881 W123 25.715

Map: Green Trails Mt Tebo No. 199

Contact: Olympic National Forest, www.fs.usda.gov/olympic Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 7 miles, turn left at milepost 340 onto the Skokomish Valley Rd. Follow for 5.6 miles, bearing right at a V intersection onto Forest Road 23. Continue for 9.3 miles and bear left at a junction with FR 2353. Then drive graveled FR 23 for 7 miles to the trailhead on the left.

Cedar Creek Trailhead & Parking

NATIONAL FOREST

08. PINE LAKE OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

While pretty little Pine Lake lies in an area of the Olympic National Forest that was intensively logged in the 20th century, majestic primeval forest embraces its shores. A logging road used to provide access to Pine Lake, but it was decommissioned and converted into a trail. It’s a pleasure to walk and usually void of fellow hikers.

From the trailhead head off through a mix of second growth and patches of old-growth. Admire the construction of the converted road to trail. Engineers constructed bends and curves in the original road bed to better mimic a real trail. And the road bed was restored to original contours in places further obscuring old road cuts.

The Forest Service planted native vegetation along the way too, so that in time it will be difficult to see that this route was once a wide logging road. The trail traverses slopes high above Pine Creek.

At about two miles it enters an attractive grove of old-growth forest. The way then steepens a little breaking stride from its relatively gentle grade to this point.

In another .75 mile the trail leaves the old road bed to traverse a grove of big trees and descend to Pine Lake. The lake is pretty shallow and surrounded by grasses, sedges and other small plants—many planted by the Forest Service along with Washington Conservation Corp crews to help rehabilitate the shoreline from past abuses.

While Pine Lake lies in an area of the Olympic National Forest that was intensively logged in the 20th century, majestic primeval forest embraces its shores.

Treat the area with respect by sticking to established paths and not trampling vegetation.

Savor the serenity of the scene. Look for resident waterfowl on the lake’s open waters and in its vegetated coves. Admire Chapel Peak which often reflects upon the lake’s placid waters. Notice too that among the stately conifers surrounding the lake, there does not appear to be any pines. Western white pines valued for their fine wood, were once abundant in the Olympics

and Cascades. But it wasn’t logging that erased them from much of these landscapes—but a Eurasian disease, white pine blister rust that decimated stands of this majestic tree.

It’s quite possible that is what occurred here at Pine Lake. Then again, early pioneers and explorers were also known for misnaming features. Perhaps someone named the lake Pine referring to the area’s evergreens as pines.

Chapel Peak

Pine Lake

Pine Creek Spur 200

Hiking Season: March to December Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes

To US 101 Trailhead & Parking

Notes: Forest Road 2361 is gated and closed from October 1 to April 30 to protect wildlife. Off-season, walk or bike the road (adding 3.8 miles round trip) to reach the trailhead.

Trailhead Amenities: None Trailhead GPS waypoint: N47 26.270 W123 25.678

Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District; fs.usda.gov/olympic

Map: Green Trails Mt Tebo No. 199

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 7 miles, turning left at milepost 340 onto the Skokomish Valley Road. Follow for 5.6 miles, bearing right at a V intersection onto Forest Road 23. Continue for 9.3 miles and bear left at a junction with FR 2353. Then continue on graveled FR 23 for 4.3 miles bearing right onto FR 2361. Proceed for 1.2 miles and turn left onto unsigned Spur 200. Follow .7 mile to trailhead.

09. SATSOP LAKES VIA CHURCH CREEK OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Church Creek was not named for a house of worship, but after Frederic Church, a member of Colonel O’Neil’s 1890 Exploratory Trip across the Olympics. Hike this lightly traveled trail through ancient forests of towering cathedral trees however and you just might have a heavenly experience. But be forewarned that the way is rough in spots and involves some steep climbing. Your toil however will be redeemed upon reaching the Satsop Lakes in a tranquil verdant basin that teems with wildlife.

Thanks to the Olympia Mountaineers this wonderful trail was saved from fading into oblivion. They adopted it and restored it. From an unimposing trailhead, start hiking immediately entering primeval forest. Cascading Church Creek, audible but not visible, adds a soothing aria to this sanctuary. The trail winds and climbs under a lofty canopy supported by gigantic beams. It comes close to Church Creek on several occasions, but the plummeting waterway remains hidden in a deep lush ravine.

The forest understory is thick and verdant. In early summer, fawn lilies, calypso orchids, and marsh marigolds add additional colors to this emerald world. In August succulent huckleberries are ready for trailside snacking. The trail crosses several small creeks and a decommissioned road. Then through a more open forest it continues climbing to a 3,150-foot divide between the South Fork Skokomish and Satsop Rivers. A humongous hemlock with two pistol-butted limbs stands sentry at the divide.

The trail then rapidly descends passing a pretty cascade fanning into a steep ravine. Giant cedars and Douglas-firs are once again encountered as the trail levels out. In 3.2 miles and after losing 1,000 feet of elevation emerge in a grassy opening housing the largest of the five Satsop Lakes. Keep your eyes on the lake for trout and surfacing rough skinned newts. The lake is home to thousands of the latter. Look too along the forest’s edges for bigger critters.

Notice that there’s no outlet. Water seeps to the Satsop River via a cavernous basalt basin. Four other lakes are hidden in the surrounding forest if you feel inclined to find them. But while the distance to reach them is not great, the terrain can be challenging. The trail continues for another .3 mile through more groves of giant trees ending at Forest Road 2372. Yes, you can reach the lakes via a much shorter hike, but you’d miss most of the grand forest.

ChurchCreek

Highlights: Solitude, Magnificent old-growth

Distance: 6.4 miles round trip Elevation gain: 2,350 feet Difficulty: Difficult Permits: None Hiking Season: June through October Notes: Forest Road 2361 is gated and closed October 1 to April 30 to protect wildlife. You can walk or bike the road (adding 11.2 miles round trip) during this time to trailhead. GPS waypoint: N47 26.928 W123 29.437

FR 2372

Satsop Lakes

Parking and Trailhead

FR 2361 -600

Chapel

Peak

NKid-Friendly: No Dog-Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: None Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic Maps: Green Trails Grisdale No. 198, Mt Tebo No. 199 Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 7 miles, turning left at milepost 340 onto the Skokomish Valley Road. Follow for 5.6 miles, bear right at V intersection onto Forest Road 23. Continue for 9.3 miles and bear left at a junction with FR 2353. Then continue on graveled FR 23 for 4.3 miles bearing right onto FR 2361. Drive 3.4 miles and turn left onto FR 2361-600. Proceed 2.2 miles to trailhead located on your right in a hairpin turn.

10. HOODSPORT TRAIL

A small park between Hood Canal and Lake Cushman, Hoodsport Trail is overlooked by hikers heading to trails within the Olympic National Park and Forest. Hoodsport Trail Park consists of about two miles of trails with major loops and several connecting trails. The system can be a little confusing to follow, but that just adds to the fun of hiking these wooded trails.

The Lower Loop makes a half mile loop in the lush mature second-growth forest that embraces Dow Creek. Two big rustic bridges will take you over the creek and back. The Hoodsport Timberland Library partnered with the Port of Hoodsport to transform the lower loop into a storybook trail. Families with small children will enjoy reading a story on separate panels as they hike along this delightful trail.

The Upper Loop is a little longer than a mile and climbs through a more open forest.

The highlight to this trail is a lone enormous bigleaf maple tree. The upper loop brushes along the periphery of the park which borders a DNR tract that was recently logged. This provides some sunnier hiking than the lower loop and some limited views out to the Olympic Mountain foothills.

NOTE: Currently (at the time of this printing) the Hoodsport Trail is closed due to extensive storm damage.

LowerLoop

LowerLoop

11. BIG CREEK LOOP

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Hike this circuitous route within the shadows of Mount Ellinor, and let Big Creek and its tumbling tributaries continuously charm and captivate you. This family-friendly loop swings around the Big Creek basin crossing that waterway and a handful of its tributaries on a series of bridges. And it leads to couple of side trails heading off to hidden cascades amongst boulders.

Big Creek can be hiked year round, but it’s best after a period of prolonged rainfall. Utilizing old logging roads and new tread, the all-volunteer Mount Rose Trail Crew built this delightful loop more than twenty year ago. The crew currently maintains 16 trails in the Olympic National Forest. The Big Creek Loop showcases their topnotch bridge building skills. For many, the bridges are the highlights of this hike. The trail starts from the Big Creek Campground. Here follow what is officially called the Upper Big Creek Loop Trail. The recommended direction is clockwise to take advantage of a gentler descent that will be easier on the knees.

The trail immediately crosses Big Creek on a sturdy bridge—one of two provided by contractors and not trail crew whom built bridges on site with area materials.

The trail briefly heads down stream along the creek before making a U-turn to begin ascending above it. Signed features and resting benches grace the way. At 1.8 miles come to a junction. Here the Creek Confluence Trail drops to the confluence of Big and Branch Creeks before looping back to the main trail.

The Big Creek Loop continues straight soon coming to a junction with the Mount Ellinor Connector Trail. The Connector Trail leads left 1.4 miles to the Mount Ellinor Trail and allows for a long and challenging ascent of the peak. The loop continues straight crossing Branch Creek on a good bridge before spanning Big Creek on a bridge above a gorgeous cascade.

The loop then descends skirting big mossy boulders and passing views of Big Creek. A short side trail heads right to drop back down to where Big and Branch Creeks meet. The main trail soon comes to bridged crossings of scenic Skinwood and No Name Creeks. It then passes a few giant firs that past loggers missed. At 4.0 miles it reaches a junction with the Campground Loop Trail which loops around the campground for 0.8 mile if you want to extend your hike. Otherwise, continue right a short distance to return to the trailhead.

Highlights: Cascading creeks, bridges, Pacific rhododendrons

Distance: 4.2 miles round trip loop Elevation gain: 850 feet Difficulty: Moderate Permits: NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass Hiking Season: Year round Notes: When Big Creek Campground is closed, park at gate (but do not block it) and walk campground road to trailhead. Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: privy, picnic area, campground, water GPS waypoint: N47 29.599, W123 12.661 Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene;www.fs.usda.gov Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains E 168S Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Turn left onto SR 119, and proceed 9.3 miles west to a T intersection with FR 24. Turn left and then immediately turn right into the Big Creek Campground continuing a short distance to the Day Use Area and trailhead.

12. MOUNT ROSE OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

The view of Lake Cushman 3,500 feet directly below is stunning. The trail starts out easy by heading up an old road and crossing a cascading creek. But the grade quickly steepens and with a vengeance. Through a series of tight switchbacks the trail incessantly climbs. Wind through carpets of salal and a uniform second-growth forest. A few remnant giant firs however survived the fires that swept through the area in the early twentieth-century.

At 1.2 miles after 1000’ of vertical climbing, come to a bench with a limited view of Lake Cushman. The trail then enters the Mount Skokomish Wilderness and gets even steeper. At 1.9 miles the trail reaches the summit loop junction along with a small plaque honoring the crew that built this trail. Head left on the shorter and steeper route to the summit, leaving the longer and more gradual option for the descent.

The summit loop climbs 1,300’ in just over one mile, through a 2006-wildfire burn and remnant pockets of oldgrowth. At 3.1 miles it reaches the 4301’ forested summit. Don’t despair, for a small rock outcropping juts out of the forest providing a panoramic payoff.

Directly below is sparkling Lake Cushman. Lightning Peak and Timber Mountain rise majestically behind it. Look out in the distance and locate the Skokomish River delta, the Black Hills and the Willapa Hills. Mount Rainier can also be seen.

After taking in the views continue hiking along the summit loop. The trail traverses attractive forest and passes a colonnade of four silver firs that have grown so close together they appear fused. At 1.7 miles from the summit the loop trail returns to the main trail. From here it’s a knee jarring descent back to the trailhead.

13. STAIRCASE RAPIDS TRAIL

OLYMPIC

NATIONAL PARK

The hike to Staircase Rapids is a heck of a lot easier today than it was in 1890 when Lieutenant Joseph O’Neil accompanied by a group of scientists led an Army expedition here on their way across the Olympics. They cut a mule trail up the North Fork of the Skokomish to help transport supplies to base camps along the way. Among the many findings that O’Neil’s party would report was a realization that this wild area deserved to be protected as a national park.

From the main parking area walk past the ranger station and cross the North Fork Skokomish on a solid bridge. Then hit the trail and start following a section of the original O’Neil Mule Trail. Interpretive signs along the way shed more light on the O’Neil Expedition and area’s fascinating geology. Pass the Shady Lane Trail (a great side trip) and a side trail leading to an incredibly large western cedar windfall.

The main trail gently climbs coming upon the frothy river. Pass big boulders and the roaring and crashing Staircase Rapids and reach a junction. The trail straight ahead leads to Four Stream (another great side trip).

The loop continues right to a large sturdy suspension bridge spanning the wild waterway. Cross the river and reach the North Fork Skokomish River Trail. Then turn right and hike down river on the wide well-traveled trail through lush riparian flats.

Pass giant maples, firs, and cedars along the way. After crossing fanning Slate Creek the way climbs a tad to bypass a large slide along the river. It then returns to the large parking area near the ranger station.

Highlights: Series of thundering rapids on North Fork Skokomish River

Magnificent old-growth forest Part of Colonel O’Neil’s historic cross-Olympic hike

Distance: 2.1 miles round trip loop

Elevation gain: 225 feet Difficulty: Easy

Permits: National Park entry fee or Interagency Pass

Hiking Season: Year round

Notes: Staircase access road is closed in winter; park at picnic area and hike one mile up road.

Kid-Friendly: Yes Dog-Friendly: Prohibited

Trailhead Amenities: Ranger Station, campground, privies, water, picnic tables

Trailhead GPS waypoint: N47 30.931 W123 19.767

Contact: Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center; www.nps.gov/olym

Maps: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Turn left onto SR 119 and proceed for 9.3 miles to a T-intersection. Then turn left and continue 5.4 miles (road becomes FR 24) to a junction. Turn right and drive 1.2 miles turning right at the Staircase Ranger Station for trailhead parking.

FourStreamTrail Sl a te C reek

Old Cedar NorthForkSkokomishRiver

STAIRCASE RAPIDS TRAIL OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK

N

Ranger Station

Trailhead & Parking

14. FLAPJACK LAKES

OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK

It’s a long haul to these two lakes, but most of the way is via a gentle or moderate grade. Strong hikers and trail runners will have no problem reaching them within a day. But others may want to plan on spending the night here at the lakes’ delightful backcountry camping area.

Start your hike on the North Fork Skokomish Trail which begins by following an old road bed decommissioned in the early 1970s. Traverse a luxuriant bottomland of big ancient cedars, Douglas-firs, and moss-cloaked big leaf maples. After passing the Staircase Rapids Loop Trail the trail comes up upon the tumbling river. The way then traverses an old burn passing by big snags and gradually moving away from the river. At 3.6 miles reach a junction just before Spike Camp. Now head right and start climbing out of the river valley. After passing through a marshy area of big cedars, come to Madeline Creek in a narrow ravine. Cross it via a sturdy bridge and continue climbing. Skirt a hillside and

work your way up the Donahue Creek ravine. The way, now considerably steeper parallels the cascading creek. The climb eases just before a junction. Here a trail leads left to the Black and White Lakes.

The Flapjack Lakes lie 0.6 mile straight ahead. Set in a basin at 3850 feet, they are ringed by subalpine forest and the rugged spires of the Sawtooth Range. A trail travels 0.8 mile around the western lake. If you spend the night, consider the 1.3 mile side trip to the Black and White Lakes or the 1.4 mile side trip to 5000-foot Gladys Divide beneath the impressive summit of 6104-foot Mount Cruiser.

Subalpine lakes tucked in the high serrated divide separating Olympic National Park from the Mount Skokomish Wilderness.

Spur Camp

MadelineCreek F lapjacks Lake Tra i l

Mount Lincoln

FLAPJACKS LAKES

OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK

NorthForkSkokomishRiver

NorthForkSkokomishRiver T r ail FourStream

Olympic National Park Olympic National Forest

SlateCreek StaircaseRapidsTrail

NTrailhead & Parking

Highlights: Two subalpine lakes; old-growth forest; backpacking Distance: 15.4 miles (R/T)

Elevation gain: 3050 feet Difficulty: difficult Permits: National Park or Interagency Pass

Hiking Season: Mid-June through October Notes: Backcountry Camping Wilderness Permit Kid-Friendly: Yes Dog-Friendly: Prohibited GPS waypoint: N47 30.968 W123 19.691

Trailhead Amenities: Ranger Station, campground, privies, water, picnic tables

Notes: Camping requires National Park Wilderness Camping Permit (contact Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center (360) 565-3100) Maps: Green Trails Oly. Mountains E 168S

Contact: Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center; www.nps.gov/olym

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Left on SR 119 and proceed for 9.3 miles to a T-intersection. Turn left and continue 5.4 miles (road becomes FR 24) to a junction. Right, 1.2 miles turning right at the Staircase Ranger Station for trailhead parking.

Flapjacks Lake

Mt Gladys

Donahue Creek

15. MOUNT ELLINOR OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Mount Ellinor is an Olympic classic delivering iconic views of Lake Cushman, Hood Canal and the eastern Olympic front. One of the most popular hikes in the Olympics, folks of all hiking backgrounds ascend this peak every year to relish in those views. But note, Ellinor is no easy hike. It’s extremely steep and involves negotiating a rocky summit with precipitous drops. It can be a dangerous hike in inclement weather and when snow covered.

There is an upper trailhead that shortens this hike by more than three miles and knocks eight hundred feet of elevation off. If your intent is to just get to the summit, then head to the upper trailhead. Otherwise, start at the lower trailhead and enjoy primeval forest groves and perhaps a little solitude at this very popular destination. Immediately enter a forest of old growth hemlock and Douglas-fir with

a rhododendron understory. At .2 mile stay right at a junction. The way left leads downhill to the Big Creek Loop. Now skirt the edge of an old clear-cut and enjoy teaser views of the peak ahead. Then steadily ascend a heavily forested ridge coming to a junction at 1.6 miles. The trail right leads to the upper trailhead. Stay left soon coming to another junction with another trail leading to the upper trailhead.

Now joining plenty of other hikers, head left and steeply climb. At 2.4 miles bear left where the winter route leads right. Trees soon yield to meadows and rocky gardens. Give thanks to the Mount Rose Trail Crew for carving this trail into the steep mountain face. Utilizing steps ascend an incredibly steep slope. Pause to admire carpeting flowers and an amazing view unfurling before you. Traverse beneath the summit block and then bend left and clamber up a rocky ridge reaching Ellinor’s 5944-foot summit.

Nearly one vertical mile below is shimmering Lake Cushman. Just beyond Hood Canal and Puget Sound sparkle against a Cascades backdrop dominated by Mount Rainier and Mount St Helens. Turn your attention north and westward to a diorama of jagged Olympic Peaks. Icy Olympus can be seen in the distance. And be sure to gaze straight down into the Jefferson Creek Valley and spot an isolated little pond. Ellinor’s non-native mountain goats may make an alpine appearance as well.

Highlights: Views of Lake Cushman and Hood Canal, Distance: 6.6 miles round trip Elevation gain: 3270 feet Difficulty: Strenuous Permits: Northwest Forest or Interagency Pass Hiking Season: July through October Kid & Dog Friendly: No Trailhead Amenities: privy Notes: Trail is prone to avalanches and can be extremely dangerous early in the season.

Trailhead GPS waypoint: N47 30.397 W123 13.928 Maps: Green Trails Oly Mountains E 168S Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; fs.usda.gov/olympic Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Left onto SR 119 and proceed for 9.3 miles to a T-intersection. Right onto graveled FR 24, proceed 1.6 miles and turn left onto FR 2419. After 4.6 miles, come to the lower trailhead. Upper trailhead can be reached by continuing on FR 2419 for another 1.6 miles and then turning left and driving rough and rocky FR 2419-014 for one mile.

16. LENA LAKES TRAIL

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST & PARK

The Lena Lakes lie high above the Hamma Hamma valley. Aside from sharing the same name, the two lakes are strikingly different from each other. The lower lake is an easy kid and dog friendly jaunt through old growth forest within Olympic National Forest. The upper lake is a grueling and demanding grunt to a stunning high basin within Olympic National Park. Expect plenty of company at the lower lake and a good chance for solitude at the upper lake.

Both lakes use the same approach. From the trailhead immediately begin climbing in second-growth forest. Continue up the trail and eventually enter groves of beautiful old growth forest. The trail nears Lena Creek and then crosses it on a solid bridge. The crossing may be dry however as the creek often makes a subterranean passage.

Continue climbing and come to a junction at 3.0 miles. Bear right for the lower lake passing an inviting ledge granting a wonderful view of the lake 100 feet below. Continue hiking and descend passing busy campsites to a junction. Head right and reach the shoreline.

OlympicNationalPark OlympicNationalForest N

LENA LAKES

If you’re bound for the upper lake, skip the trip to Lower Lena and continue left at the first junction. A little farther bear left at another junction (right heads back to the lower lake) and begin following Lena Creek through spectacular primeval forest. The trail enters Olympic National Park (dogs are prohibited from this point on) and continues alongside Lena Creek heading up an increasingly tighter valley.

The way soon gets rocky and insanely steep. It’s arduous going, and when soaked by rainfall it can be treacherous. The climbing eases after you negotiate a ledge and clamber up a steep rocky bed of big rocks.

Once again cross Lena Creek, which may be following a subterranean passage here as well. Then continue through attractive old-growth forest groves before cresting a ridge cradling Upper Lena Lake. Turn around and look back at Mount Rainier in the distance. Then head to the lake. Enjoy a breathtakingly beautiful backdrop view of 5960-foot Mount Bretherton rising above and reflecting in the lake.

In autumn the surrounding hills colorfully reflect in the lake’s placid waters. Huckleberries are bountiful. If you have any energy left follow a half mile side trail to beautiful Milk Lake set beneath a small glacier on Mount Bretherton.

Upper Lake Lena

Campsite

Lena Creek

Milk Lake Mount Bretherton

The Brothers Wilderness

Lena Lake Bridge L ena C r e e k

Forest Road 25 HammaHamma River Lena Creek Canpground

Highlights: Old-growth forest, Lower lake good for new backpackers; Upper in high wilderness basin

Distance: Lower Lake: 6.0 miles round trip; Upper Lake: 14.0 miles round trip Elevation gain: Lower Lake: 1225 feet; Upper Lake: 4100 feet

Difficulty: Lower Lake: moderate; Upper Lake: strenuous Permits: Northwest Forest or Interagency Pass Hiking Season: Lower Lake: March to Dec; Upper Lake: July to November

Notes: Camping (no fires) at Upper Lake requires National Park Wilderness Camping Permit (contact Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center (360) 565-3100)

Kid-Friendly: Yes Lower Lake; no Upper Lake Dog-Friendly: yes Lower Lake; prohibited Upper Lake Trailhead Amenities: privy available Trailhead GPS waypoint: N47 35.984, W123 09.055

Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene: http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic and Olympic National Park, www.nps.gov/olym Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168SX Trailhead Directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Continue for 7.5 miles to the trailhead.

17. ELK LAKES

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

A great alternative to the oft-crowded Lena Lakes the Elk Lakes are a perfect destination for hikers young and old alike and those just seeking a little solace. The hike described here is the longer way following a remnant of a trail that once traversed the entire Jefferson Creek Valley. If your intent is just to get to the lakes, then begin your hike from the upper (main) trailhead.

Start hiking through a recent burn area traversing steep slopes several hundred feet above roaring Jefferson Creek. Born in the snowfields of Mount Ellinor and her rugged neighbors; the creek crashes through a steep and narrow canyon before draining into the Hamma Hamma River.

The way eventually enters old-growth forest and makes a few ups and downs before coming to a junction at 1.1 miles. Now head right (you’ll be retuning on the left) through a grove of gigantic cedars coming to Elk Lake. Shallow and surrounded by grasses, the lake teems with birdlife and casts

ELK LAKES

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

ElkLakesTrail

FR2401JeffersonCreek

Alternate Trailhead and Parking Elk Lake

FR2401 walk road CedarCreek

Upper Elk Lake FR 2441

pretty reflections of the surrounding slopes. Continue along the shore and then follow alongside Jefferson Creek through more impressive old growth coming to FR 2401.

Then walk the road left for 0.8 mile, picking up the trail again just after crossing Cedar Creek. But be sure to head right first on a 0.2 mile side trail to pretty little Upper Elk Lake. Then retrace your steps—cross the road and follow a trail dropping back down to the lower lake.

Pass big trees and some nice shoreline lounging spots. Pass the spur leading to the upper (main) trailhead and cross Jefferson Creek on jumbled rocks. In spring and other periods of high water this may be difficult. Just beyond the crossing reach the first junction. Turn right and return to your vehicle.

Trailhead & Parking

Highlights: Old growth forest, wildlife habitat Distance: 4.5 miles return Difficulty: Easy Elevation gain: 700 feet Permits: None Hiking Season: Year round Notes: High clearance vehicle recommended for lower trailhead. If FR 2421 is too rough, stay on FR 2480 for 3 more miles, turn right onto FR 2401, 2.5 miles to the upper trailhead.

Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: none GPS waypoint: N47 34.759 W123 07.222

Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District: fs.usda.gov/olympic Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168SX

Trailhead Directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Continue west for 6.4 miles and turn left onto FR 2480. Cross the Hamma Hamma River, and in 0.2 mile turn right onto unsigned FR 2421. Follow this rough road 1.6 miles to trailhead on your left at a pullout where the road makes a sharp turn right.

18. MILDRED LAKES

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

It’s one of the hardest and meanest trails in the Olympic Mountains. The trail to the Mildred Lakes was never officially built and includes steep sections up rocks, roots, and ledges. And while the actual elevation difference between the trailhead and the lakes is a mere 1,900 feet; the real elevation gain is more than 3200’ due to copious ups and downs. There’s one section of trail that climbs more than 1,000 feet in about a half mile. It’s a nasty clamber up roots, rocks and loose gravel. But don’t curse the roots—for they’ll be your handholds.

Is all of this trouble and toil worth it?

The Mildreds are among the largest backcountry lakes the Olympics. Their setting is quite sublime in a rugged basin surrounded by serrated peaks. And because many hikers just aren’t cut out for this grueling journey, you can expect an uncrowded journey.

The trail leaves the roar of the cascading Hamma Hamma River behind and enters the 13,000-acre Mount Skokomish Wilderness.

Starting out fairly easy, the path winds through an old cut, passes a large avalanche chute, and then enters gorgeous old growth forest. The way then gets tougher steeply climbing a 3200’ ridge with good views of nearby Mount Pershing looming above.

The trail then descends into a cool forested glen graced by rushing Huckleberry Creek which needs to be crossed on a questionable log or forded.

ountSkokomishWilderness

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

The way then ascends a steep ridge and comes to a tight ravine. After clambering over rock, root, and ledge—and gaining 1000’ in elevation in a little more than a half mile—the insanity ends on a 4100’ ridge. Wander along open ledges, enjoying views of Mount Cruiser and the Sawtooth Range.

The trail then drops 250’ and trudges through marshy mosquito breeding grounds before reaching the first of the Mildred Lakes. Set in primeval forest, enjoy a backdrop of rugged summits.

To reach the other lakes, cross lower Mildred’s inlet stream and follow a rough path through heather meadows for 0.3 mile to a junction. Here a path leads right to middle Mildred Lake. Admire its rocky islands.

HammaHammaRiver

H

uckleberryCreek

Highlights: Trio of large backcountry lakes, views of Sawtooth Ridge and Mount Pershing, extensive old-growth forest

Distance: 9 miles R/T Kid & Dog Friendly: No Elevation gain: 2900’ Difficulty: Strenuous Permits: Northwest Forest/Interagency Pass Hiking Season: July through October Notes: Wilderness rules apply Trailhead Amenities: privy, picnic tables GPS Waypoint: N47 34.517, W123 15.672

Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene:fs.usda.gov/olympic Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains E 168SX Trailhead Directions: Hoodsport travel north on US 101 for 13.7 miles, left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Continue for 13.3 miles (last five miles are gravel) to the trailhead.

Upper Mildred, one of the largest backcountry lakes in the Olympics is reached by continuing on the more defined path for a couple hundred yards forward. Located in a bowl between Mount Lincoln and Mount Cruiser, the setting is as rugged as the terrain you just hiked across.

Mount Gladys

Mount Cruiser

Mount Skokomish Wilderness

Mount Pershing

Mildred Lakes

NM

Hamma Hamma Falls FR25

Camp sites

19. MURHUT FALLS

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Hidden in a lush narrow ravine, Murhut Falls were long unknown to many in the outside world. But all that changed upon the construction of a well-built and easy to hike trail. This two-tiered waterfall that plummets 130 feet has become a favorite cascade for many Olympic Peninsula hikers.

The trail starts by following an old well-graded logging road. It was past logging activity in this area that led to the discovery of these falls. After a short and steady climb the old road ends on a low ridge. The way then continues on a good single track slightly descending into a damp, dark, cedar-lined ravine. As you work your way toward the falls, its roar will signal that you’re getting closer.

Reach the trail’s end and behold the impressive falls crashing before you. The upper falls drops more than 100 feet while the lower one crashes about 30 feet.

Pacific rhododendrons lining the trail in May and June make the hike even more delightful with their pink blossoms.

To US 101 FR2530

Trailhead & Parking

Murhut Falls Trail

20. DUCKABUSH RIVER

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

The Duckabush River starts in the heart of the Olympic Mountains and flows through a deep verdant valley on its way to Hood Canal. Duckabush River

Trail travels near and along the river for more than 20 miles terminating at Marmot Lake in the heart of Olympic National Park. That’s a long journey primarily reserved for backpackers. Day hikers however should be content heading up this trail for just a few miles.

The Duckabush River Trail starts off gently climbing through a uniform forest of second-growth fir. At just more than a mile the trail enters The Brothers Wilderness, a 16,000-plus acre federally protected section of the Olympic National Forest. It then continues through a low gap near Little Hump and begins a descent of 250 feet. The way then follows an old logging railroad grade on an almost perfectly level trajectory.

After passing a campsite the trail finally comes upon the Duckabush River.

At 2.6 miles, reach a spectacular spot where giant cedars and firs hang over the churning, crashing river. This is a great spot to turn around and perfect for a good half day hike or one with young adventurers. Otherwise keep hiking. The trail now steadily and steeply climbs traversing a 2011-wildfire burn zone. Hardy fire-scarred trees stand among stands of fire-ravaged timber. While trail crews have since rehabilitated the tread here, avoid this section of trail during periods of high wind, as burnt snags are prone to toppling.

At a little over 3 miles come to a ledge with a spectacular view east down the river valley. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Cascades. Return to this spot later in the spring and you’ll have an array of wildflowers enhancing the views. Keep hiking and come to another outcropping before finally cresting 1700-foot Big Hump at 3.9 miles. For most day hikers, this is far enough. But if you still feel like hiking, continue through a mosaic of old growth and fire scorched trees and descend 600 feet back to the river. Here at 5.3 miles from the trailhead is a camping area near a series of impressive rapids.

During periods of heavy rain the river can be deafening here. Watch for darting dippers in the rapids as you rest up for your return to your start.

And if you are a strong hiker or are out on a several day backpacking adventure, the trail continues. But note that at 6.7 miles it enters Olympic National Park—meaning dogs are not allowed to continue—and if you are planning on camping, you’ll need to secure a wilderness backcountry permit from a national park ranger station beforehand.

Highlights: Old-growth forest, low elevation wilderness valley, backpacking opportunities Distance: 10.6 miles R/T Difficulty: Moderate Elevation gain: 2150 feet Permits: NW Forest Pass /Interagency Pass Hiking Season: Year round Notes: Wilderness rules apply Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: Privy GPS waypoint: N47 41.100 W123 02.393 Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, fs.usda.gov/olympic Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains E 168SX Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, drive north on US 101 for 37 miles turning left at Milepost 310 onto the Duckabush Rd. Then follow the Duckabush Rd which becomes FR 2510 (and gravel at 3.6 miles) for 6.0 miles. Pass horse unloading area and turn right onto Forest Rd 2510-060 proceeding 0.2 mile to the trailhead.

Saint Peters Dome

Big Hump Little Hump

River

21. MAPLE VALLEY – STEAM DONKEY LOOP DOSEWALLIPS STATE PARK

Dosewallips State Park consists of more than 1000 acres of prime wildlife habitat along the Dosewallips River at its delta on Hood Canal. Well-known for its campground and excellent fishing and shell fishing opportunities, the park also contains nearly five miles of hiking trails. An excellent 3.6 mile loop can be made by following the Maple Valley and Steam Donkey Tails. Start this loop hike from the ranger station by walking a short distance northwest up the dirt road signed for the Maple Valley Trail. After passing through the Meadow Group Camp, reach the trailhead. Head up the trail and soon come upon the Dosewallips River.

Now hike along the river through a forest of cedars, cottonwoods and of course—maples, both bigleaf and vine. In fall the maples add touches of gold to the forest. Scan the forest for elk. They’re prolific in this area.

Continue along the trail reaching a junction with the Rhody Cut-off Trail.

You’ll be returning on that trail for this loop—so continue right gently descending to a bridged crossing of cascading Phantom Creek. Then ascend a steep bluff and move away from the river.

The trail bends southward skirting an old cut along the park’s boundary and reaches a fire road.

Steam Donkey Loop

Cross the road and now continue on the Steam Donkey Trail. Steam donkeys were steam powered winches used by loggers in the early twentieth century for yarding and loading downed timber. Running parallel to the Steam Donkey Trail and reached by walking a short distance east on the Fire Road is the Izett Grade Trail. This trail follows a half mile stretch of an old logging railroad grade.

The Steam Donkey trail continues south along the state park boundary gently climbing through maturing second growth. It crosses Phantom Creek and then shortly afterward comes to a small bridge whimsically named On Your Arse Crossing. The way then spans another cascading creek before cresting a ridge and beginning a long gentle descent. After passing the southern end of the Izett Grade Trail the loop reaches a small dammed pool that once provided water to power the Izett Logging Company’s steam donkeys Cross the Fire Road once more and continue straight passing another stretch of old railroad bed. Then descend into a gulch coming to a junction. Bear left onto the Rhody Cut-off Trail and make a bridged crossing of a creek shaded by attractive cedars. Then again bear left at a junction and climb a low ridge draped with rhododendrons. The Rhody-Cut-off Trail then loses elevation returning to the Maple Valley Trail. Return to your start by retracing a short stretch of trail to your right.

Steam Donkey Loop

Highlights: Historic logging and railroad features, mature maples and cottonwoods, wintering elk grounds

Distance: 3.6 miles round trip

Elevation gain: 550 feet

Difficulty: Easy Permits: Discover Pass Hiking Season: Year round Kid-Friendly: Yes Dog-Friendly: Yes on leash

Trailhead Amenities: Privy, water, campground, picnic area, ranger station Trailhead GPS waypoint: N47 41.380 W122 54.184

Contact: Dosewallips State Park; http:// parks.state.wa.us/499/Dosewallips Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168SX

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, drive US 101 north for 40 miles to Dosewallips State Park entrance at milepost 307. Turn left into camping entrance and proceed .3 mile to parking near ranger station. Day-use parking is also available at picnic area and North Tidal Area Trailhead.

22. MOUNT WALKER OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Easternmost peak in the Olympic Mountains, Mount Walker offers commanding views of Hood Canal and the Puget Sound Basin below. But this hike’s best attribute is its abundance of rhododendrons. Hike up Mount Walker when the rhodies are in bloom and experience a purple mountain majesty!

Yes, you can drive to the top of Mount Walker. But why when there is a great trail to take instead! And if you’d like to have the summit sans automobiles—then consider a hike up Walker when the road is gated and closed to vehicles. It’s also during that time that you can consider a loop hike by returning on the road. On the rare occasions that snow accumulates on this low Olympic peak, the road makes for an excellent snowshoe or cross country ski route.

The trail immediately starts climbing through a tunnel of rhododendrons under a uniform canopy of second-growth cedars and hemlocks.

Washington’s state flower, the Pacific (or coast) rhododendron, grows in profusion here. For much of the year the rhodies merely add a layer of dark green to the forest understory. But come late spring this hardy shrub begins to blossom, speckling the surrounding firs and hemlocks with rosy-purple bouquets.

By June, vibrant violet bell-shaped blossoms ring throughout the emerald forest. Mount Walker is one of the best places in Washington to appreciate this beautiful flower. The trail climbs steeply. As you toil, look up to see if you can locate any of the old wire and insulators that once serviced a fire

tower on the summit. After 2 miles and nearly 2000 feet of climbing reach the North Summit viewpoint, which was the site of a fire lookout from 1931—1967.

Enjoy good but limited views west and north here. Then head to the South Summit (dogs must be leashed at the summits) by walking the graveled Summit Road for 0.4 mile to a picnic area and then following a 0.1 mile trail

to a breathtaking panoramic view of Puget Sound. Stare straight down to Quilcene Bay, Dabob Bay and the Toanodos Peninsula. Across the sparkling waters, Green and Gold Mountains rise on the Kitsap Peninsula. When clouds are absent or high in the sky, Mount Rainier adds a snowy backdrop to this beautiful scene. And if you’re here in June, the view will be framed with fragrant purple boughs.

Highlights: Views of Hood Canal, rhododendrons, historic lookout site Distance: 5.0 miles R/T; Elevation gain: 2050’ Difficulty: Difficult Permits: None Hiking Season: April to December

Notes: From November 1 until March 31 FR 2730 is gated. During this time park away from the gate near US 101 and walk .3 mile to the trailhead. Do not block the gate, park in the road, or block driveways. Kid-Friendly: No Dog-Friendly: yes Trailhead Amenities: none (privy and picnic tables at summit) Trailhead GPS waypoint: N47 46.554 W122 54.854

Contact: Olympic National Forest, usda.gov/olympic Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168SX

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton follow US 101 north for 47 miles to just north of milepost 300. Turn right onto Mount Walker Road (FR 2730) and proceed 0.3 mile to the trailhead. To US 101 63

North Summit

Mt. Walker South Point

23. LOWER BIG QUILCENE RIVER

OLYMPIC

NATIONAL FOREST

Due to its low elevation, abundance of flowering rhododendrons, and mesmerizing rapids, the Lower Big Quilcene Trail makes for a wonderful spring hike. Much of the trail follows the Big Quilcene River through a rugged canyon cloaked in patches of primeval forest

Starting at an elevation of 1400 feet, the Lower Big Quilcene River Trail climbs a mere 1200 feet in its entire 6.5-mile journey. The trail passes by old camps and shelter sites, testaments to when this was the main route to Marmot Pass. A good destination for day hikers is Camp Jolley at just over five miles. But the 5.4-mile round trip to Bark Shanty Camp makes for fine shorter day hike, too. And the trail is perfect for a backpacking trip as well. Just be sure to use existing campsites and practice leave no trace principles in this drinking watershed for eastern Jefferson County.

The trail starts high above the river on an old roadbed. After a descent of about 100 feet in the first mile the trail enters a steep-walled canyon. Climb and drop 100 feet again coming to a bridged crossing of the Big Quil at 2.5 miles. Then hike along the river through towering old growth, soon reaching Bark Shanty Camp, a great place to stare at the river’s roaring rapids.The trail then re-crosses the river on a sturdy bridge and comes to the western terminus of the Notch Pass Trail. Continue left along the river undulating between old recovering

clear-cuts and primeval groves of tall timber. Try to keep your boots dry as you cross a series of side creeks—but Jolley Creek at 5.1 miles will be a challenge. No worries if you can’t make Camp Jolley which is just on the other side of the creek, for this is the turning around spot for this hike.

FR2750

BigQuilceneRiver

Highlights: Canyon with a tumbling river, old-growth, backpacking Distance: 10.2 miles R/T Trailhead: Privy Elevation gain: 800‘ Difficulty: Moderate Permits: NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass Hiking Season: April to November Notes: Open to bikes, motorbikes & horses Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes GPS waypoint: N47 47.008 W122 57.903

Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; fs.usda.gov/ olympic

Map: Green Trails Oly. Mountains E. 168SX Trailhead Directions: From Quilcene, drive US 101 south for 1.5 miles (From Shelton follow US 101 north for 50.5 miles). Turn right onto Penny Creek Road and after 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27). Then drive for 3.4 miles and turn left onto FR 27-080. Continue 0.4 mile to trailhead.

TownsendCreek

NotchPailtrai

Jolley

Bark

Shanty Camp

24. MARMOT PASS

OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Hike through groves of towering old growth along a tumbling pristine river. Then climb to resplendent alpine meadows granting jaw-dropping views from Puget Sound to some of the Olympic Mountain’s highest and craggiest spires. A classic hike in the Olympic rain shadow, Marmot Pass is often kissed with sunbeams while nearby ridges swirl with clouds. And while a small population of marmots wander this high country—hikers are abundant. Plan your hike for mid-week and be a good steward of this beautiful but fragile destination.

Following the Upper Big Quilcene River Trail, immediately enter the 44,258-acre Buckhorn Wilderness, the largest road-less area within the Olympic National Forest. The trail starts off easy meandering though magnificent stands of primeval forest along the churning Big Quilcene River. After

passing Shelter Rock Camp the trail steeply climbs away from the river and leaves the valley floor. Soon the forest yields to open avalanche chutes and scree slopes fanning down from Buckhorn and Iron Mountains. Enjoy breathtaking views of the rugged surroundings.

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Then enter groves of yellow cedar and subalpine fir and come to Camp Mystery with its dual springs.

Next wander up a corridor of meadows bursting with wildflowers and pockmarked with marmot burrows. After skirting beneath a steep rock face emerge at a small hanging valley just below the open pass. One final push and you’re standing at one of the supreme viewing spots in the Olympics. Gaze east to Hood Canal, Puget Sound, and the Cascades. The Dungeness Valley spreads out below to the west, flanked by Mounts Mystery, Deception, and Walkinshaw; some of the highest summits in the Olympics.

If you have more energy consider going farther following a scramble path north for one mile and climbing over 1,000 feet to the 6,998-foot summit of Buckhorn Mountain. The views are beyond breathtaking.

Highlights: Stunning alpine views and wildflowers, stands of primeval forest Distance: 10.6 miles return Elevation gain: 2450’ Difficulty: Difficult Permits: NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass Hiking Season: July to November Notes: Wilderness rules apply; no campfires above 3,500 feet Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: Privy GPS waypoint: N47 49.672 W123 02.466

Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; fs.usda.gov/olympic Map: Green Trails Oly. Mountains East 168SX Trailhead Directions: From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 1.5 miles (from Shelton, follow US 101 north for 50.5 miles). Turn right onto Penny Creek Road and after 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27). Then continue for 9.3 miles turning left onto FR 2750. Then drive 4.7 miles to trailhead.

Iron Mountain

Buckhorn Mountain

Marmot Pass

enes

FR 2750

25 MOUNT TOWNSEND OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST

Hike across a broad high summit at the northeastern edge of the Olympics and savor dazzling wildflowers and sweeping views that include snowy Mount Baker, the lofty jagged eastern Olympic Mountain front, Puget Sound, and the Seattle skyline shimmering before Mount Rainier. Townsend is one of the most climbed mountains in the Olympics.

With all of its scenic attributes, it’s not difficult to see why.

From the trailhead, steadily climb through a stately grove of firs and hemlocks adorned with Pacific rhododendrons. After entering the Buckhorn Wilderness, the forest thins and views begin to emerge. The trail weaves through patches of brilliant wildflowers and crosses a handful of cascading creeks. The climb is steady but more than two dozen switchbacks soften the grade intensity.

At a small knoll, pass by tiny hidden Windy Lake. Then continue upward and bear right at a junction with the Silver Lakes Trail (a beautiful side trip). The trail then ascends Mount Townsend’s summit plateau, an expanse of alpine tundra adorned with ground-hugging junipers and brilliant clumps of cinquefoil and phlox.

At 4.0 miles reach a junction. The main trail continues left descending to the Little Quilcene Trail (an alternative approach). Take the trail right and shortly reach the mountain’s 6,280-foot high point. You can continue on this path a short distance to Townsend’s northern 6212-foot summit if you’d like. The views are spectacular from anywhere along the open peak.

Gaze out at Puget Sound with its network of islands, bays, and channels and watch ferries ply azure waters. Stare out at the Seattle skyline sparkling in the sunlight. A fortress of Cascade peaks, punctuated by snowy volcanoes, dominates the eastern horizon. To the north lie Dungeness Spit, Discovery Bay, the San Juan Islands, and Vancouver Island. And to the west, it’s pure Olympic wilderness—jagged peaks and deep green valleys.

Highlights: Sweeping alpine views, sprawling alpine meadows, historic fire lookout site Distance: 8.2 miles R/T Difficulty: Difficult Elevation gain: 2980 feet Permits: None Hiking Season: June to November Notes: Trail open to horses; wilderness rules apply; no campfires above 3,500 feet Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes Trailhead Amenities: Privy GPS waypoint: N47 51.385, W123 02.153 Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; fs.usda.gov/olympic Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains E 168SX Trailhead Directions: From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 1.5 miles (from Shelton, follow US 101 north for 50.5 miles). Turn right onto Penny Creek Road. After 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27) and continue for 13.7 miles, ignoring the sign at 12.5 miles for the Mount Townsend Trail (that’s the lower trail to Sink Lake). Then turn left onto FR 27-190 reaching the trailhead in 0.7 mile.

Rocky Brook is a beautiful year round road side destination near Brinnon on Hood Canal. See description, location and twentty-four other Olympic Penininsula waterfall destinations at waterfalltrail.org

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