The Minnesota State Horticultural Society (MSHS) is a nonprofit, educational and charitable organization established in 1866. Our mission is to serve northern gardeners through education, encouragement and community.
For information about subscribing to Northern Gardener magazine or becoming an MSHS member, visit northerngardener.org/membership, call 651-643-3601 or email membership@northerngardener.org.
Minnesota State Horticultural Society
2705 Lincoln Dr., Roseville, MN 55113-1334 Main Number 651-643-3601 Toll Free 800-676-6747
Publisher: Tom McKusick, 651-643-3601, ext. 202 TMcKusick@northerngardener.org
Editor: Mary Lahr Schier, 507-581-4145, Mary@maryschier.com
Accounting Department: Rose Eggert; REggert@northerngardener.org
Copyright 2019 by MSHS. Printed in the USA on recycled paper. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reprinted without permission from MSHS. The information published in Northern Gardener reflects the experiences and opinions of the writers and is not necessarily endorsed by MSHS. Northern Gardener is a registered trademark of MSHS.
(ISSN) 1529-8515. Northern Gardener is published bimonthly (January/February, March/April, May/June, July/ August, September/October, November/December) by the Minnesota State Horticultural Society, 2705 Lincoln Dr., Roseville, MN 55113-1334. Periodicals postage paid at St. Paul, Minn., and additional post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Northern Gardener, 2705 Lincoln Dr., Roseville, MN 55113-1334.
Partners
Blue Thumb, Carlson Wagonlit Travel, Como Park Zoo and Conservatory, Friends School, Lakewood Cemetery, Minnesota Grown, Minneapolis Home and Garden Show, St. Paul Home and Landscape Show, Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, Minnesota Nursery and Landscape Association, Minnesota State Fair, Save Our Monarchs, Seed Savers Exchange, The Common Table, University of Minnesota, University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners and Walker Art Center. Member of Garden Writers Association, and Minnesota Magazine and Publications Association.
Gardeners’ Logs editor’s note
Keeping garden records was never one of my strong suits, until I started a blog. (It’s still around at https://mynortherngarden.com.) The practice of writing every week or so about what was happening in the garden and taking pictures to illustrate my posts resulted in many more (and much more accurate) logs of the garden’s growth and development. When did that big storm take out my sumac hedge? Oh, yeah, that was 2011. What’s the earliest date my Iris reticulata bloomed? Answer: March 13, 2016.
Fortunately for all gardeners, the Smithsonian Institution (one of our real national treasures) is also keeping records—and another Minnesota garden has just been added to its Archives of American Gardens collection. Barbara Burgum has designed and cared for the landscape around her 1905 Arts and Crafts home on Lake Minnetonka for more than a decade, creating 2 acres of perennial and vegetable gardens that complement the house and its stunning views of Lake Minnetonka. Members of Barbara’s local garden club nominated the landscape for inclusion in the archives and spent 18 months carefully documenting the history and current state of the garden. It is a real beauty, and I’m so glad that we are recording how it looked last summer in this issue. You can read Gail Brown Hudson’s profile of the garden, beginning on page 20.
MSHS Board of Directors
Mike Heger, Waconia, Chair
Wayne Damerow, Shoreview, Vice Chair
Margaret Klis, Minneapolis, Treasurer
Joel Karsten, Roseville, Secretary
At large:
Tina Dombrowski, St. Paul
Mary Lahr Schier
Deep winter is the ideal time to do some dreaming about how your garden will change next year, and we have some inspiration and ideas to get you started.
Michelle Mero Riedel, like many gardeners, saw her yard go from mostly sun to a lot of shade. She loves color in the garden and recommends 15 perennials that thrive and bloom in the shade. You can see her list, beginning on page 32. If 2019 is the year you decide to start a water garden, Soni Forsman has suggestions for the best (and easiest) plants to add to your containers and small ponds. Her story begins on page 36.
How about growing ramps? These are popular among foragers and foodies, but you can grow them in your garden as well. Samantha Johnson has tips and a recipe, beginning on page 40.
Finally, to gardeners facing a long winter, houseplants can give solace and a way to prune, pot and water. Diane McGann has the basics on houseplant care as well as tips for the best plants for specific light situations. Check it out on page 25.
Another way to survive winter with a smile is to take a garden class. We have a great list of class options beginning on page 5.
Register before the show at northerngardener.org/mshs-events
Pick up your free tickets at our will-call booth.
Minnetonka landscape earns national recognition.
GAIL BROWN HUDSON 25 The Indoor Garden
Houseplants upgrade your air— and your mood—all winter.
DIANE MCGANN 28 Pretty Pocket Garden
Neighboring business owners transform a dingy alley into a go-to garden in downtown White Bear Lake.
NANCY EIKE
32 15 Shade Superstars
Let these exceptional, easy-to-grow perennials liven up your shady gardens.
MICHELLE MERO RIEDEL
Choosing the best plants for your water garden, no matter how big or small.
SONI FORSMAN 40 Ramp It Up!
The new ‘it’ onion is a forager’s favorite, but you can grow it, too.
SAMANTHA JOHNSON
Community Events calendar
The following events are free and open to the public unless otherwise noted.
2019
Minnesota Water Garden Society
Decoding Garden Advice
Meleah Maynard, master gardener and Northern Gardener writer, presenter Sunday, Jan. 13, 2 to 4 p.m.
Bachman’s on Lyndale, Heritage Room, 6010 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis. Gardeners hear a lot of advice from all kinds of sources, but even the pros can be wrong. Meleah and Jeff Gillman, former University of Minnesota horticulture professor, researched some of the most common recommendations and turned their findings into a book: Decoding Garden Advice: The Science Behind the 100 Most Common Recommendations (Timber Press, 2012). Meleah will talk about these findings and have the book available for purchase and signing. Contact: mwgs.org.
Rochester Flower and Garden Club
Organics and Food Security
Frank Dehne and Justine Dobson, organic gardeners and organic farm and livestock inspectors, presenters Thursday, Jan. 17, 6:30 to 7:30 p.m.
Rochester Community and Technical College, Heintz Center, Room HB117, 1926 Collegeview Rd. S.E., Rochester. Presentation includes organics and food security topics such as: why we need organics; water pollution; and edible landscape design.
Contact: Carol, dcnaatz@yahoo.com; www.rgfc.org.
Orchid Society of Minnesota
American Orchid Society Awards
Steve Gonzalez, American Orchid Society (AOS) judge, presenter
Saturday, Jan. 19, 2 to 3:30 p.m. Bachman’s on Lyndale, Heritage Room, 6010 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis. Learn about AOS judging: what judges look for to decide what award to give, how to decide what plants you should exhibit and how to prepare your plants for judging. Members will participate in a simulated voting to nominate plants for AOS special awards. Contact: www.orchidsocietyofminnesota. com.
Hope Church, 7910 15th St. N., Oakdale. Learn how to grow and prune clematis, and about varieties that thrive in Minnesota gardens.
Contact: bjronningen@yahoo.com.
Garden Club of Ramsey County Beekeeping
Rebecca Kolls, former host of “Rebecca’s Garden” and WCCO-TV meteorologist, presenter
Monday, Jan. 21, 7:25 to 8:25 p.m.
St. Luke Lutheran Church, 1807 Field Ave., St. Paul.
Learn the basics of beekeeping.
Contact: www.ramseygardeners.org.
Orchid Society of Minnesota
St. Paul Winter Carnival Orchid Show Saturday and Sunday, Jan. 26-27, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Marjorie McNeely Conservatory, 1225 Estabrook Dr., St. Paul.
Hundreds of blooming orchid plants will be displayed by the Orchid Society of Minnesota (OSM), Marjorie McNeely Conservatory, commercial orchid vendors and individual society members. Learn about orchid culture from OSM members and vendors, and purchase quality orchids and orchid-related items from our excellent vendors.
Cost: $5 for adults and $3 for children ages 3 to 12 ($1 off admission for Como Friends members or for visitors with Winter Carnival button).
Contact: www.orchidsocietyofminnesota. com.
Items for the Calendar of Events must be submitted eight weeks before publication, Jan. 1 for the March/April 2019 issue. Submit items online at www. northerngardener.org/community-calendar-of-events. Questions? Contact bharvieux@northerngardener.org.
Minnesota Water Garden Society
Easy Garden Photography Techniques
Michelle Mero Riedel, master gardener, professional photographer and Northern Gardener writer, presenter
Sunday, Feb. 10, 2 to 4 p.m.
Bachman’s on Lyndale, Heritage Room, 6010 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis.
Michelle will demonstrate how to choose the most suitable camera, take amazing garden photos in all seasons and in various weather and light conditions as well as ways to highlight any subject. She will illustrate these concepts with a variety of photos, including photos of water gardens and photos from the 2018 Minnesota Water Garden Society Tour. Contact: mwgs.org.
Orchid Society of Minnesota
Jungle Log and Alternative Ways of Growing Orchids
Jason Fischer, Orchids Limited, presenter
Saturday, Feb. 16, 2 to 3:30 p.m.
Bachman’s on Lyndale, Heritage Room, 6010 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis.
Jason will take us beyond growing orchids in bark and moss and show us how to create an “orchid log” along with other ways to mount and grow orchids. Contact: www.orchidsocietyofminnesota. com.
Washington County Horticulture Society
Miniature Hostas
Gregg Peterson, president of the American Hosta Society, presenter Monday, Feb. 18, 7 to 8:30 p.m. Hope Church, 7910 15th St. N., Oakdale. Gregg will discuss miniature hostas. Contact: bjronningen@yahoo.com.
Calendar continues on page 6.
MSHS Office Hours Monday through Thursday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday, by appointment Closed Feb. 14-17, 21-24; March 1-3 for home shows.
Hydroponics is the easy way to garden year-round. The program will focus on what hydroponic gardening is and why you should try it, and will provide an easy lesson in how to get started with hydroponics, including choosing necessary equipment and supplies. It will also cover what you can grow indoors and outside, and the difference between hydroponics and aquaponics.
Instructor: Larry Cipolla is a Hennepin County master gardener and a lifelong gardener.
This class filled up fast when we offered it in November, so we’re doing it again— but this time in a larger space! Did you know you can grow fresh salad greens throughout the winter with no lights, no greenhouse and little more than a cupboard and a windowsill? Lee Olson will teach you how to grow sprouted seeds in soil, employing a method that encourages a long stem without expansive roots and provides delicious, healthy salad greens in less than 10 days at a fraction of the cost of buying them at the market. You will leave with five trays to take home: broccoli, radishes, sunflowers, peas and buckwheat.
Instructor: Inspired to try indoor salad gardening by Peter Burke’s book Year-Round Indoor Salad Gardening (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2015), Lee Olson discovered how effective Burke’s method was and has taught this method to more than 500 students.
Classes are sponsored by MSHS but sometimes held at other locations. Enrollment is limited, and registration is required. Register online at www.northerngardener.org/ mshs-events. Questions? Contact llschommer@northerngardener.org. Refunds will not be issued for nonattendance except by cancellation at least one week before class.
Native Landscapes for Bird Enthusiasts—Webinar
Tuesday, Jan. 15, 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. Free for members, $10 nonmembers Location: Your computer. Bring birds to your feeders by growing native plants! Adding native plants to your garden will attract and protect the birds you love while making your space beautiful, easy to care for and better for the environment. Kaitlyn will discuss the best trees, shrubs and perennials to plant in our region, along with how to establish a native garden in your own backyard.
Instructor: Kaitlyn O’Connor, education and outreach coordinator at Prairie Moon Nursery.
Landscape Design Basics
Five sessions: Mondays, Feb. 4, 11, 18, 25 and March 4; 6 to 9 p.m. Register by Jan. 30.
$149 members ($249 per member couple); $159 nonmembers ($259 per nonmember couple). Price includes a comprehensive course packet, lab materials, and basic landscape design tools. Location: University of Minnesota, 405 Alderman Hall, 1970 Folwell Ave., St. Paul. Learn the theory and principles of sustainable landscape design and how to avoid common mistakes. Participants will use their own property as a class project by designing an entry garden, a deck/patio garden or other landscape space. Each session will culminate in a hands-on, take-home assignment so students can apply the techniques learned to their personal landscape project in preparation for the next class and the next steps in the landscape design sequence. The workshop will also include time for personal critiques of your ideas during the last four sessions as you develop your designs.
Instructors: Julie Weisenhorn, U of M Extension horticulture educator, and Jim Calkins, former U of M landscape design and management instructor.
Make and Take: Valentine’s Day Wreath
Monday, Feb. 11, 7 to 8:15 p.m.
$40 members, $45 nonmembers
Location: Bad Weather Brewery, 414 Seventh St. W., St. Paul.
Make and take a heart-shaped wreath to keep or give away. Using fresh materials that will dry in place, we will make a beautiful wreath just in time for Valentine’s Day. Embellished with ribbons, this hanging wreath is a perfect way to share the love! One Bad Weather beer or house soda included in ticket price.
Instructor: Jenn Hovland is the owner and principal designer of Fleur de Louise Flower Studio in Stillwater.
Location: St. Paul RiverCentre, 175 Kellogg Blvd. W., St. Paul.
Use your complimentary member ticket to see the newly imagined St. Paul Home and Landscape Show and join us for one of our kokedama workshops.
A form of Japanese garden art that is centuries old and related to bonsai, kokedama is a unique way to present and display plants. The moss ball is the focal and supporting point for a sculpted tree or plant, which is then displayed on a platform or suspended from string with the plant growing out from the sphere. Workshop includes a brief history and description, demonstration including planting, care and guided work time. Participants will take home a finished kokedama. Register before the Home and Landscape Show at northerngardener. org/mshs-events.
Instructors: Various.
MSHS News
JOIN MSHS AT THE SPRING SHOWS
The 2019 spring home and garden shows are just around the corner, and there are some exciting changes. The Minnesota Home and Patio Show has new owners and is now called the St. Paul Home and Landscape Show. But that’s not all that is new— MSHS will have a new location on the main floor in booths 088 and 088A. We’re hosting a Kokedama Make and Take class at the show, and we will be selling lots of plants.
2019 Show Dates
St. Paul Home and Landscape Show: Feb. 15-17, 2019
Minneapolis Home and Garden Show: Feb. 22-24 and March 1-3, 2019
Escape the Snow and Ice—Use Your Free Tickets
Northern Gardener and Premium Affiliated members, it’s time to take advantage of one of your perks. You have two complimentary tickets to each of the home and garden shows. Escape the snow and ice and wander through stunning display gardens, learn from cold-climate gardening pros and stock up on bulbs, corms and bare-root plants for your own garden. Choose from dahlias, hostas, lilies and more—all MSHS members enjoy 15 percent off.
Swing by our will-call booth at each show to pick up your free tickets. Tickets are not included with Basic Affiliated and subscription-only levels.
GIVE A HOLIDAY GIFT WITH IMPACT
Are you looking for a meaningful gift for the gardeners in your life? Consider making a donation to MSHS in their honor this holiday season.
We’ll send a special note to the honoree acknowledging your gift and recognize them in our annual report. Plus, it’s a gift they will see in gardens all over Minnesota—engaging children in edible schoolyard gardens, bringing neighbors together in community gardens, beautifying our public spaces and spreading the joy that gardens create.
Donate today by calling 651-643-3601 or give online at northerngardener.org/ support-mshs.
P.S. A special thanks to all our supporters for your donations in 2018!
—Diane Duvall
Calendar continued from page 4.
Garden Club of Ramsey County Plant Propagation
William Cook, professor of biological sciences at St. Cloud State University, presenter
Monday, Feb. 18, 7:25 to 8:25 p.m.
St. Luke Lutheran Church, 1807 Field Ave., St. Paul.
Learn about plant propagation. Contact: www.ramseygardeners.org.
Volunteer—Spread Some Spring Cheer
The spring shows are two of our biggest fundraising events of the year, and we have many volunteer shifts to fill. Help us spread spring gardening cheer—volunteer! Please visit https://northerngardener.org/volunteer to find job descriptions and the link to our sign-up page, and contact Lara Lau-Schommer with any questions or concerns.
Thank you for your time and energy. We couldn’t do these shows without you!
—MSHS staff
YOU MIGHT BE MISSING OUR EMAILS
Due to changes in email security, some MSHS staff emails are being directed to spam folders. It appears to happen only when we email people with Gmail email accounts.
Please check your spam folders to ensure you are receiving all of our communications. If we are in your spam folder and you want to hear from us, please add our domain (@northerngardener.org) to your safe senders list or mark our emails as “not spam.”
For Gmail users: Open our message in the spam folder and click “Report not spam” or check the box next to the email and click “not spam” at the top.
Visit northerngardener.org/contact to find instructions for categorizing our emails as “not spam” in other email providers.
Rochester Community and Technical College, Heintz Center, Room HB117, 1926 Collegeview Rd. S.E., Rochester. Kathy will recommend clematis varieties for sunny or shady areas of your garden, and cover selecting, planting, care and pruning.
Contact: Carol, dcnaatz@yahoo.com; www.rgfc.org.
Minnesota Peony Society Annual Education Event
Saturday, Feb. 23, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Bachman’s on Lyndale, Heritage Room, 6010 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis. Includes a floral design seminar “Designing with Peonies,” noon social, membership business meeting, and a peony culture seminar on “How to Turn an Acre of Lawn into a Peony Paradise” with Gary Bieck of Elkhart Lake, Wis. Gary grows many peonies as well as daylilies, lilies, hibiscus, hydrangeas and more. Contact: mnpeony.org/events.
Donations to MSHS have led to more gardening programs for children.
GROWING TOGETHER Bemidji Garden Club
Like other garden clubs, the Bemidji Garden Club has regular meetings, community plantings members tend, a spring plant sale and tours to exceptional gardens, but what stands out is the members’ commitment to the environment and local food.
They started including native plants in their annual plant sale inventory, and have sold out within 10 minutes of the sale opening. The club has been able to make donations to community organizations that have been nominated by club members, says Libby Underhill, the club’s treasurer. Community Table, an organization that offers free meals to people in need, and a local homeless shelter were recent recipients of grant money.
In March, the group will be touring the Bemidji Food Shelf’s large, new deep winter greenhouse. “Our food shelf is
Gardening Complete
very active—it has to be because we have the need in our community—and having this type of greenhouse lets them offer fresh produce yearround,” says Libby.
Club members have long cared for the flower beds at the library, but recently revitalized most of them as native plant gardens. “Bemidji is really active in the Birds, Bees and Butterflies Campaign,” says Libby. Started by the Mississippi Headwaters Audubon Society, Bemidji Monarch Project committee and other local organizations and businesses, the campaign promotes the planting of native trees, shrubs, and wildflowers in the community to benefit
birds and pollinators. “A lot of people choose to live in Bemidji to enjoy the outdoors, and they want to take care of the environment,” says Libby.
—Brenda Harvieux
HOT OFF THE PRESS
By authors of Cool Springs Press Cool Springs Press 2018
As you plod through the gardening off-season, you may wish for the chance to hear from a variety of gardening pros on ways to develop your horticultural repertoire. Taking a class is one option (and a good one). Another is to crack open Gardening Complete, How to Best Grow Vegetables, Flowers, and Other Outdoor Plants.
Cool Springs Press has pulled together a lineup of its crack garden writers, including Lynn Steiner and Rhonda Fleming Hayes of Northern Gardener fame, for a garden seminar in print. Plus, the photos are gorgeous and generously displayed, enhancing the book’s appeal on gray winter days. If it grows outdoors, they cover it.
The basics of botany, geology (well, soil, at least) and entomology ground you in the science of what happens in your garden while the fundamentals of design give you tools to make things beautiful. All the “ings”—planting, watering, fertilizing, pruning, composting, mulching, propagating and harvesting—get addressed thoroughly.
It’s no surprise that the tone throughout, though in the authors’ distinctive voices, supports non-chemical, environmentally sustainable strategies. Chapters on pollinators (Hayes), xeriscaping (Steiner), weeds, pests and diseases offer multiple, carefully explained techniques for getting what you want in your garden without wreaking havoc on the rest of us.
And, while the beginning gardener can find the right information to take
that first step into the planting world in, perhaps, a container on the deck, seasoned growers will also learn ways to improve and expand their gardens.
—Julie Jensen
Rhonda Fleming Hayes
Find the Bemidji Garden Club on Facebook or contact Libby at underhlk@paulbunyan.net.
SUBMITTED PHOTO
Caring for planting beds around the local libary is one of the Bemidji Garden Club’s community projects.
Travel Tour
Gardens and Castles of Ireland and Scotland
June 3-16, 2019
Plus a four-day optional postextension in the Scottish Highlands
Deadline to register:
January 11, 2019
This is truly a pick-your-adventure travel package.
Choose 1, 2 or all 3 destinations!
PLUS, don’t miss
Autumnal Gardens of Philadelphia and the Delaware Valley
September 3-9, 2019
Travel tours hosted by C. Colston Burrell
For more information: northerngardener.org
Fixer Upper’s Clint Harp, carpenter from the hit HGTV series & star of DIY Network’s Wood Work, on Mar. 1 & 2.
101 Market
Abrahamson Nurseries
Alexis Bailly Vineyard
Arden Hills Nursery
Axdahl’s Garden Farm & Greenhouse
Bachman’s
Beier’s Greenhouse
Black’s Greenhouse
Bloomington Garden Center NEW!
Como Park Zoo & Conservatory
Costa Farm & Greenhouse
Countryside Lawn & Landscape, Inc.
Dan & Jerry’s Greenhouse
Dolan’s Landscape Center
Dundee Nursery & Landscape
Eco gardens
EggPlant Urban Farm Supply
Fair’s Garden Center
Farmington Greenhouse
Flower Power Garden Center & Fred Holasek & Son Greenhouse
Friends School Plant Sale
Funkie Gardens
The Garden By the Woods NEW!
Garden Divas
Green Earth Growers
Green Lake Nursery
Green Valley Greenhouse NEW!
Hartman Garden Center & Landscaping
Harvest Moon Edible
Landscapes NEW!
Hedberg Supply
Heidi’s GrowHaus
Home Sown Gardens
Hugo Feed Mill & Hardware
Jean’s The Right Plant Place
Kelley & Kelley Nursery
Kern Landscape Resources
Knecht’s Nurseries & Landscaping
Landscape Alternatives, Inc.
Lilydale Garden Center
Living Sculpture Trees
Lynde Greenhouse & Nursery
Malmborg’s Garden Center
Mickman Brothers
Minnehaha Falls Nursery & Landscaping
Minnesota Landscape Arboretum
Minnesota Native Landscapes
Mother Earth Gardens
My Sister’s Garden
Nagel Sod & Nursery
Natural Landscape Minnesota
Nature’s Garden World
Nelson Nursery
Otten Bros Garden Center & Landscaping
Pahl’s Market
Patio Town
Plant Place
Prairie Restorations, Inc.
Reuvers Nursery
Sargent’s Gardens
Sargent’s Nursery
Seed Savers Exchange
Seven Sisters Greenhouse NEW!
South Cedar Garden Center
Squire House Gardens
Superior Outdoor Expressions
Swenson Gardens
Terra Garden Center
Terrace Horticultural Books
Twin Orchards Nursery
Wagners Garden Center
Walker Art Center
White Flower Farm
Winter Greenhouse
MINNESOTA
GREEN Episcopal Homes of Minnesota
The Episcopal Homes of Minnesota in St. Paul has a long history of caring for older adults and offers several care levels and services. With a large campus in the city, gardens are important to the residents. “There’s no green space looking outward from the campus, but when you come in, you enter this beautiful place and have no idea you’re in the city,” says Lindsay Becker, the housing manager at the Midway Point building. “It’s a huge deal to get outside in green spaces for residents, especially for people with mobility problems, so it’s important to make the space nice. The Minnesota Green program has helped us make big change in just two years.”
The campus has four interior courtyards, one big courtyard that links four buildings, raised beds on patios, a sensory garden, vegetable garden plots
and other “little pockets of gardens,” Lindsay says. “It’s hard for people who always had a garden to not have tomatoes growing somewhere nearby,” says Lindsay, “so we let them plant what
they want to truly make it their home.”
Gardening combats isolation and gets residents outside and interacting with others. “It can be as simple as waking up to water a geranium on the patio—sometimes that’s all it takes for a person to want to get out of bed,” says Lindsay. “They start talking about what they used to grow as young gardeners, and just light up when they remember those happy memories.”
—Brenda Harvieux
For more info, visit episcopalhomes.org.
Garden-in-a-Box: Chisago County Master Gardeners/Kost Church
MSHS SPOTLIGHT
After interviewing Sue Humble, the Chisago County Master Gardener program coordinator, in 2017 about the master gardeners’ community garden in North Branch, I learned that they do garden programming for children, too, and suggested they check out MSHS’ Garden-in-a-Box program. They joined in 2018 and received six garden kits.
Four were planted in the community garden behind the library. Michelle Olson, a new graduate of the master gardener program, took the lead on the educational programing. The master gardeners partnered with the library’s summer reading program, the community education summer program and local Girl Scouts to get kids in the garden. Lessons on good and bad bugs, nutrition, plant diseases, tending the gardens and parts of the plants to eat made kids excited to try the food they helped grow.
“One little girl ate basil leaves right from the garden—she couldn’t get enough of it!”
says Sue. Having the Gardenin-a-Box gardens in the larger community garden allowed children to grow additional plants and showed the kids different ways to grow food.
After fun in the garden, the kids read, and the librarian added books on plants and gardening to the recommended titles she pulled from the shelves.
The other two Garden-in-aBox kits were sponsored by members of the Kost Church and given to a local family with six children. The boxes were placed in their yard and gardening became a welcomed new family activity.
MSHS will be accepting applications
for our Garden-in-a-Box program in early spring.
—Brenda Harvieux
For more info on the Garden-in-a-Box Program, visit northerngardener.org/garden-in-a-box. Visit www3.extension.umn.edu/ county/chisago for info on the Chisago County Master Gardeners.
Rhonda Fleming Hayes
Gardens combat isolation.
Rhonda Fleming Hayes
This family received Garden-in-a-Box kits to use in home-schooling projects and other family activities.
Please join us on Thursday, April 4, 2019 for the
Lake Elmo Inn Event Center, 3712 Layton Ave. N., Lake Elmo, MN 55042
Ticket Price: $65, $10 discount for MSHS members • Doors open at 11 a.m. Entrée Selections: Chicken Limoncello, Beef Tenderloin Kabobs and Vegetarian option available
• Subscription to Northern Gardener magazine, our award-winning publication exclusively for cold-climate gardeners
• Discounts at 110+ garden centers and specialty shops
• $25 White Flower Farm credit for new members
• Free gardening webinars
• Discounts on MSHS classes, events and merchandise
Find out more and register: northerngardener.org/spring-garden-gala • 651-643-3601
Become a member today! Members enjoy a full year of fantastic benefits, including: Don’t miss out on the best gardening tool you’ll ever use…
• And much more! Join online today: northerngardener.org/membership Are you a master gardener or part of a garden club? Become an Affiliated Member for just $62 $37!
northern natives
Lynn M. Steiner
The Best Bird Food
When it comes to attracting birds, most people think about putting out a few seed-filled feeders or planting fruiting shrubs. While both of these are important food sources for birds, the truth is, we need to really think about attracting insects to our landscapes—something most gardeners try to discourage. And tops on the list of bird favorites are caterpillars—some of the most destructive insects to plants. But nothing will appeal to a mother bird trying to satisfy a nest full of openbeaked fledglings like a nice fat, juicy caterpillar or two!
Doug Tallamy, entomologist and author of the breakthrough book Bringing Nature Home (Timber Press, 2009), explains that 96 percent of terrestrial birds rear their young on insects—and not just a few. During the breeding season, the diminutive Carolina chickadee needs more than 5,000 insects to feed a clutch of hatchlings. Larger insects
such as caterpillars not only reduce the mother’s burden, but are also the best food for baby birds. A fledgling’s esophagus needs soft material to swallow and digest, and the caterpillars provide the right proteins, lipids and carotenoids for good nutrition.
While adult birds will eat a wide variety of fruits and berries, the caterpillars their offspring need tend to be specific feeders. And their preferred foods tend to be native plants. About 90 percent of moth and butterfly caterpillars rely on a few—sometimes only one as in the case of milkweed and the monarch butterfly caterpillar—native plants for their main diet. Luckily, it is a two-way street, and sharing your landscape with an abundance of birds is one of the most effective ways to keep caterpillars and other destructive insects under control. Among the best native plants for attracting caterpillars, and therefore providing an abundance of bird food, are oaks, black cherry trees, willows, birches, maples,
blueberries, goldenrods and asters.
So, birds rely on native plants, but plants also rely on birds. In addition to eating insects, they eat fruits, buds, flowers and nectar of plants and, in return, they help pollinate flowers and disperse their seeds. Unlike rodents, which destroy seeds by gnawing the seed coats, birds eat only the fleshy parts of fruits, allowing seeds to survive and germinate.
Lastly—but it’s very important—do not use insecticides. Many insecticides harm birds directly, while others kill or contaminate insects and other creatures that birds feed on. It is cruel to lure these feathered beauties to our landscape and then kill them with chemicals. Learn to live with a few holes in your leaves from insect feeding, and you’ll learn to live with a lot more birds!
Stillwater-based Lynn Steiner’s latest book is Gardening Complete (Cool Springs Press, 2018).
Make Gardening a Part of Your Legacy
MSHS Heirloom Circle
“As members and volunteers of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society, we’ve seen the society grow and prosper. We are making sure that growth continues by including the society in our will.”
—Lee and Jerry Shannon, MSHS Lifetime and Heirloom Circle members
Legacy gifts from members like you help to ensure that MSHS gardening programs inspire generations of gardeners to come.
For more information about ways to make a legacy gift to MSHS, please contact: Diane Duvall: 651-643-3601 dianed@northerngardener.org
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Buckthorn Removal Experience
Before After
by design
Garden Photography
Photographing your garden is a fun pastime and hobby. The ease with which garden photos can be distributed through electronic media as well as more traditional forms inspires many gardeners to drop the shovel and pick up the camera throughout the gardening season. It’s also a great way to see how your garden design looks from the objective viewpoint of the camera.
Here are some tips for composing and shooting better garden photos:
Camera vs. Cell Phone
Cameras on cell phones continue to improve, and you’ll take some nice garden shots with most cell phones. But for better photos, use a good digital camera. If you don’t own one, don’t fret—the remaining tips below also will help you shoot better photos with your phone.
However, a “real” camera—meaning one more advanced than the simplest, automatic point-and-shoot models—will have a better lens and other advantages. Being able to switch to manual mode, where you can set aperture and shutter speed to create an effect or combat poor lighting conditions is one, as is the ability to switch lenses. A short macro lens allows you to shoot those tree-frog-indaylily and extreme close-up insect and flower photos with much greater clarity. A telephoto lens is useful when you can’t get as close to your subject as you’d like, such as when shooting landscape and wildlife scenes while traveling.
Shoot in Low Light
Avoid photographing your garden on sunny days. Professional garden photo shoots begin with the photographer showing up before sunrise, then shooting hundreds of photos as the sun comes up. By 8:30 a.m., the pro is packing up. Full sun washes out colors and contrast. Shooting on cloudy days works also, and the end of the day is as good as the beginning, if you are not an early bird.
Photos look more interesting if the subject is placed off center, such as these three waterlilies.
Don Engebretson
It’s in the Elbows Crisp photos come from minimizing camera movement, especially when pressing the shutter. Support a camera with your left hand. Your left thumb and forefinger are on either side of the lens where they can adjust the focal length ring. For a phone, place your left thumb on the bottom and forefinger on the left side or upper left corner depending on phone orientation. With your right hand lightly supporting the camera/phone, index finger on the shutter button, press both elbows into your chest. Lock your knees. This is the “human tripod” pose that greatly minimizes camera movement as you shoot.
Rule of Thirds
You’ll see this rule in visuals from landscape paintings to fine photography. If a horizon is in play, set it one-third of the way either to the top or bottom of the frame. You’ll recognize which is best. The same rule applies for objects in the frame. If a sculpture, person or prominent plant is a central object, don’t center it; compose the shot so the object is roughly a third of the way in from either side of the frame. Like all rules, this one sometimes can be broken.
Compose the Shot
Look through the lens or at the display screen to see what you’ve got. Adjust the lens range closer or farther to see if the photo improves. Slowly pan left and right to judge the same. You’ll often find that the broad garden view you are shooting is fine—shoot it—but when zooming in on just a portion, such as a three-plant combination within, you have an even better shot. Shoot that also!
Be sure to examine the entire frame carefully before shooting. Many garden photos are rendered less than perfect because a tool handle, length of hose or one perennial in dire need of deadheading mars the scene.
Download and Edit
Learn to tweak photos with the various editing tools on your computer after downloading. You’ll be able to improve colors and contrast. Cropping is also important. Make a duplicate of the photo and experiment with what’s in or out of the photo. You’ll develop a skill for cropping photos so that they look even better.
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Landscape designer and writer Don Engebretson can be reached at www.renegadegardener.com.
how-to
Forcing Bulbs Indoors
Treat yourself to a New Year’s gift of forcing bulbs indoors. Nothing brightens up a gray winter day like blooming tulips or daffodils. Paperwhites are nature’s air freshener with their sweet, heady fragrance. Pots of popping bulbs to purchase will soon be everywhere but experiencing the steps of forcing your own is fun, easy and a great way to keep your green thumb nimble in the “off-season.”
Patience, Patience
Forcing bulbs is a straightforward process, though it does require a little patience. January and February are the months to enjoy, but October is when you begin, which happily coincides with the arrival of bulbs in the stores. Overall, it takes about 16 weeks from beginning to blossom, so planning is important.
Bulbs must go through a process that mimics overwintering which is achieved by keeping them at a temperature of around 40 degrees for 12 weeks. Do not allow them to freeze or to be in an environment where temperatures average above 48 degrees. A refrigerator is the perfect place to do this but a garage or root cellar that maintains the correct temperature will work.
Hyacinth bulbs can go through the cooling process unplanted and then be forced to bloom in a glass vase with an opening narrow enough to hold the bulb. I think tulips and daffodils work best potted in potting mix. Select a container that is at least 6 inches high and has a drainage hole. You can also put an inch of small stones at the bottom for drainage. Drainage of some type is crucial. Fill your pot about one-third full of potting soil and press the bulbs into the soil, pointy ends up, crowding them close but not touching. Top the bulbs with enough soil to leave the tips exposed, gently packing the soil down around the bulbs. Leaving at least an inch between the soil line and the top of the pot will provide the stems support as they grow, as forced bulbs do tend to flop over easily.
Water the pot until the soil is slight-
ly moist and cover with a plastic bag, loosely knotted at the end, to help the pot retain moisture yet still get a little air circulation. You do not want the soil to dry out. Keeping the plastic bag closed will likely suffice, but check every month to make sure it hasn’t dried out. If it has, water until moist. Place your pot in a refrigerator or cool space.
After 12 weeks, bring your pots out and uncover them. Water, if necessary, and move to a cool, sunny window until they begin to bloom, which will take anywhere from two to four weeks depending on the variety of bulb and how much
sun they get. Once they begin to flower, transfer to a bright, indirectly lit location to help preserve the blooms. Continue to water the bulb garden to retain an even moistness.
Blooms Now; No Cooling Required
If you can’t wait until fall to begin the fun of forcing bulbs indoors, paperwhites and amaryllis will flower without the 12-week cold treatment. Forcing paperwhites in pebbles and water is striking and very easy to do. After adding a layer of pebbles to a shallow dish deep enough to cover the bulbs, nestle the bulbs among the pebbles so they are supported and secure. Water them, just to the bottom of the bulbs. For one week, place the bulbs in a cold treatment situation— in the dark and at 40 degrees. After a week, move the dish to a location with bright, but indirect light, and in two to four weeks, the paperwhites will bloom and fill your house with their almost overpowering fragrance. Keep the water level at the base of the bulbs throughout the process.
Now is a good time to scour clearance shelves for amaryllis bulbs that were put out for the holidays and didn’t sell. They aren’t just for December!
Minneapolis-based Eric Johnson blogs at www.gardendrama.wordpress.com.
PHOTOS: ERIC JOHNSON
Forced tulips sprout after their chill time.
Eric Johnson
Tulips in February? Forcing makes it possible.
Fragrant paperwhites don’t need chilling. ng
A Trustworthy Trio kitchen garden
The garden is a perpetual balance of predictability and unpredictability. Perhaps it’s this balance that draws us to gardening in the first place—that never-ending guessing game that causes us to wonder if a certain plant will grow or not, thrive or not, produce abundantly or not. It’s an endlessly fascinating pursuit.
But that’s also why it’s nice, in a kitchen garden, to have a handful of truly dependable plants. Plants that we know will grow and thrive and produce abundantly, this year, next year, and always. Let’s take a look at a few of my favorites.
Chives
One of the defining events of spring is the moment when I find the first green tips of chives popping up through the (usually still snow-covered) soil. Chives don’t believe in waiting around for warm weather. They arrive unceremoniously, and by the time the rest of the garden has gotten its act together, the chives already have a monumental head start. And that means that we’re harvesting chives long before anything else in the garden is ready.
Anyone can grow chives. They’re incredibly easy to propagate by division
and they aren’t terribly fussy about growing conditions. You could grow chives simply because they’re so easy, but that would be overlooking their other charming attributes, including their beauty (those purple blossoms!), their scent (onionlike), and their flavor (delicate and divine).
But really, is there anything better than fresh chives on bread, or served on mashed potatoes, or stirred into your favorite salsa? Yes—there is: fresh chives in potato salad. Oh, the delight! Later in the season, when the chives burst into bloom, you can harvest the purple blossoms and use them as a colorful and flavorful addition to spring salads.
Chocolate Mint
Here’s the rundown on chocolate mint: it’s tenacious and bold and it may be plotting to take over the world. (Or, at the very least, it plans to share dominion with the chives.)
Chocolate mint is aptly named—its leaves offer a scent that’s reminiscent of chocolate and mint. There’s some debate over whether the chocolate tones are noticeable; it seems to depend on the particular plant and the person sniffing.
Samantha Johnson
The flavor isn’t especially bold, but it’s a pleasant minty flavor that’s well suited to beverages and desserts.
And, as if that wasn’t enough, chocolate mint is also beautiful, with dark leaves and stems that have a hint of burgundy. Chocolate mint is pretty enough to grow as an ornamental but why would anyone do that when it’s so delicious?
The only caveat for growing chocolate mint is that, like most mints, it tends to be vigorous. But if you can corral your chocolate mint into an appropriate (read: contained) area, you’ll be amazed by the productivity of this delightful plant. I mean, really, chocolate and mint together? Oh, yeah.
Strawberries
Strawberries complete the culinary trifecta of spring stars. You can count on strawberries to deliver a delectable crop for a few years after planting, and if you choose June-bearing varieties, the fruit will ripen more or less at the same time each spring. You’ll need to rejuvenate your strawberry beds each year to keep them producing and to tame the runners, because, like chocolate mint and chives, strawberries tend to do their own thing.
And then you harvest your berries and the fun really begins! Strawberry salads with mint leaves (and chives in the dressing), roasted strawberries, strawberry sauces over ice cream and strawberry-mint smoothies—the possibilities are endless and wonderful.
Of course, we mustn’t forget the world’s finest spring treat—fresh strawberry shortcake topped with homemade whipped cream. Pure bliss!
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Our new Kitchen Garden columnist is Samantha Johnson, the author of several books, including The Beginner’s Guide to Vegetable Gardening, (Voyageur Press, 2013). She lives on a former dairy farm in northern Wisconsin and writes frequently about pets, gardening and farm life. Visit her online portfolio at http://samanthajohnson.contently.com.
SAMANTHA JOHNSON
Chive blossoms are also edible.
pollinators
The Early Bee
You know that predicament that occurs when you come home from vacation and there’s nothing to eat in the fridge? It’s the same for the bumblebee that emerges from hibernation in early spring looking for food in your garden, only to find the cupboard is bare. Too bad there’s no Uber Eats for bees. This is an opportunity for gardeners to help out.
Northern gardeners, eager to plant for pollinators, often head straight for those easygoing big blooms of summer and sit out the spring. It’s understandable, given the dicey nature of our transition from winter. And, increasingly unpredictable weather due to climate change can exaggerate the fluctuations that swing back and forth as the growing season commences. Talk about a garden gamble.
But tell that to the hungry bumblebee.
The only survivor of last year’s colony is the mated queen. She has spent the winter in the old nest, a cozy cavity under tufts of grasses, often in an abandoned mouse hole or chipmunk den. Once temperatures reach 50 degrees, she’s ready to fly, unlike the honeybee that waits for warmer days. She greets the spring hungry, needing both nectar and pollen so that she can begin nesting anew and laying eggs to regenerate her colony.
Habitat loss is felt harshly at this time of year. That’s why one of the best things you can do for bumblebees and other early-emerging native bee species is to take a chance and plant spring-blooming flowers. You may not see the bees out foraging in the chilly first days of spring, but look again, and be sure to peer above and below eye level, in the treetops and along the woodland floor. I’m always surprised to see tiny bees hovering about my serviceberries or a lone bee probing the bellwort.
More than Perennials
Pollinator-friendly gardening doesn’t stop at the conventional perennial garden. Trees are an essential part of the plan as are the small, unassuming wildflowers often referred to as “ephemerals.” Some of the early-blooming trees, such as oak and maple, may not be as showy or even produce what is referred to as “significant bloom” or what people think of as actual flowers. Yet again, tell that to the bumblebee.
Ephemerals are native plants, such as bloodroot and trout lily. They display short-lived blooms, humble alone but charming in colonies as they expand to form a groundcover. They are the perfect plant for those seeking to create living mulch in their gardens. The flowers may be fleeting but their value to pollinators is long lasting.
The list of native plants below includes some very early bloomers for your “early risers” garden. For those who are wondering: I didn’t forget the dandelion, but that, my friends, is a whole other column.
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Minneapolis-based Rhonda Fleming Hayes is the author of Pollinator Friendly Gardening (Voyageur Press, 2016).
Trees and Shrubs
Red maple
River birch
Serviceberry
Ironwood
Pagoda dogwood
Bur oak
Pussy willow
Spicebush
Small flowering plants
Bloodroot
Trillium
Dutchman’s breeches
Pussytoes
Shooting star
Hepatica
Rue anemone
Twinleaf
Virginia bluebells
Trout lily
Bellwort
Jack-in-the-pulpit
Violet
Canada anemone
—R.F.H.
Pagoda dogwood in bloom
Rhonda Fleming Hayes
Trillium flower
garden solutions
Spider Mites
Idon’t have any authority to do this, but I’m declaring 2018 the Year of the Spider Mite. Spider mites thrive during droughts, which could help explain why some gardeners saw so many of them in 2018. In northern Minnesota and areas along the Mississippi River from the Twin Cities southward, the past summer was dry. (Southwestern Minnesota, however, got drenched.)
In both my home garden and in the many gardens I tend professionally, I saw countless spider mite infestations, mostly on plants that I didn’t even know they could eat. By the end of the summer, I’d identified spider mite damage on hemlocks, goat’s beard, zinnias, nasturtiums, creeping thyme, flame willow and Calamintha, as well as on two different kinds of beans. My bean plants took the brunt of the attack, and I watched their leaves slowly lose their color before turning brown and crispy and then falling off altogether.
The specific pest in question is the two-spotted spider mite, scientifically known as Tetranychus urticae. They aren’t actually spiders, though they are arachnids rather than insects. Under a lens, you can see their distinctive coloring; they have yellow bodies with two spots on the backs of their abdomens. Two-spotted spider mites are tiny: 1/50th of an inch in length! With that measurement in mind, the amount of destruction that they can do to a full-grown tree would be impressive if it wasn’t so infuriating!
Such a tiny pest can only cause life-threatening damage in great numbers. Female spider mites lay up to 100 eggs over the course of a few weeks, and an entire generation of spider mites can be completed in less than a month, which means the hatching mites are soon laying their own eggs. In hot, dry weather, spider mite populations can quickly swell, and the damage they cause their host plants is often exacerbated by drought stress. Up to 200 species of plants are susceptible to spider mites, which are not specialized feeders. Victims range
Scouting the Mites
As with any pest, you can’t determine a successful management technique if you can’t identify the pest correctly. I think that the easiest way to identify spider mites is by looking for symptoms of their feeding. Two-spotted spider mites will use their piercing, sucking mouthparts to feed on the liquid within plant cells, specifically on a leaf’s underside. Their feeding injures the leaf and creates whitish discoloration in stippled, dotted patterns. The overall leaf might appear bleached or yellowed, with leaf curling and browning accompanying large mite populations.
If you suspect spider mite damage, inspect plants regularly and thoroughly every three to five days during times of heat and drought. Look for them on the bottom of the leaves. They are too small for you to see their signature coloration without magnification, but you might be able to see their protective webbing. I’ve noticed that spider mites look like a mixture of dust and pepper stuck to a leaf’s underside. They won’t fall off of the leaves unless you physically wipe them off.
When I attempt to control any pest, I start with an option that doesn’t involve chemicals, because I don’t want to kill any beneficial insects that might be already helping my cause.
Since drought stress contributes to spider mite damage, protect your plants with adequate watering practices, especially
during the summer months. For spider mite control, the most harmless control option is spraying them with water. According to the recommendations, you can use a strong blast of water to physically remove spider mites from your plants. I tried this several times, and I don’t think it’s effective for large mite populations, especially on plants with many small leaves or needles. There is simply too much surface area to cover, and it’s difficult to spray all of it.
Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can be highly effective for controlling spider mites on ornamentals, and they won’t adversely affect non-targeted insects. These pesticides only work by directly contacting the mites, so you will need to spray your plants thoroughly, especially on the undersides of their leaves. Repeat applications are usually necessary.
For severe cases of two-spotted spider mites, use stronger pesticides. Neem oil can work well, as can products containing pyrethroids, such as bifenthrin and cyfluthrin. When using any chemicals, be sure to read the labels and use them properly, especially when spraying around bees or near water. To prevent spider mites from developing resistance to one specific chemical, you should switch between chemical classes after every third pesticide application.
Cheers to a spider-mite-free 2019!
Horticulturist and writer Laura Schwarz lives in Minneapolis, where she works in garden design, installation and maintenance.
from spruce trees to rose bushes to lettuce plants.
Spider mites (inset) and the damage they cause
Laura Schwarz
plant to pick
2019 PPA Plant of the Year® Stachys monnieri ‘Hummelo’, Hummelo Betony
2019 Hosta of the Year Hosta
Winter is a time to reflect on the past season’s garden and plan what will be new for next year. If you are looking for some new perennials to add to your garden, these two deserving plants have been awarded “plant of the year” status by two reliable and well-regarded groups—the Perennial Plant Association, which is a group of nursery professionals, and the American Hosta Society, which includes home gardeners, collectors and nursery professionals. Their picks for 2019 are both great plants for northern gardens that will be widely promoted and readily available.
Hummelo Betony
Stachys ‘Hummelo’ has been a favorite of mine for years. While not new, it is not as well known as it should be. Stachys has several common names, including betony, wood betony, hedgenettle and bishop’s wort. This species is a cousin to the plant commonly called lamb’s ears. This cultivar was selected and introduced by famed German grower Ernst Pagels in the late 1990s.
I’ll bet you think of silver, fuzzy leaves when you think of the genus Stachys, but this plant has interesting green, corrugated foliage that creates a tufted basal mound, with the star of the show being the upright spikes of rosy-pink/lavender flowers that will grow up to 20 inches above that foliage in midsummer. It grows best in full sun and well-drained soils and has few pests except for a few leaf miners on occasion. Fortunately, the pests do not harm the plant.
A great addition to the full-sun perennial bed, Hummelo combines beautifully with ornamental grasses, purple coneflowers and Asclepias tuberosa. Its upright stems are also great as cut flowers. “Hummel” means “bumblebee” in German, which is appropriate since the pollinators just love this perennial! It’s hardy in USDA Zone 4. It does spread slowly by creeping rhizomes but it is not invasive. This low-maintenance perennial has one other great characteristic—it’s deer-resistant.
‘Lakeside Paisley Print’ Hosta
Hosta ‘Lakeside Paisley Print’ is a variety I do not have in my own hosta collection, but after seeing the photos of this beautiful plant, I know I have to buy it!
Bred by noted hosta hybridizer Mary Chastain, this stunner has heart-shaped leaves with very wide, wavy green margins. The petioles are cream colored and that color moves up into the center of the leaf in a feathery pattern. The foliage is thick and substantial.
‘Lakeside Paisley Print’ blooms in midsummer with creamy scapes that have a light lavender flower. It grows best in part to full shade in average, well-drained soils, making it a great
‘Lakeside Paisley Print’
addition to the shade garden. It will blend beautifully with other hostas, ferns, astilbe and some colorful Heuchera. The plant itself grows to 10 inches in height and spreads to 20 inches. The flower scapes are 22 to 24 inches in height. It is hardy to zone 3. The flowers will attract hummingbirds into the garden.
Debbie Lonnee gardens in South St. Paul and works in the horticulture industry.
Debbie Lonnee
Stachys ‘Hummelo’ ng
PHOTO COURTESY OF WALTERS
Hosta ‘Lakeside Paisley Print’
ROOTED IN HISTORY
Minnetonka landscape earns national recognition.
FILLED WITH THE PLANTS WE LOVE, our living gardens evolve through time, changing from day to day, season to season, year to year. “[Gardening] is just endlessly fascinating,” says Barbara Burgum, a retired landscape architect who tends 2 acres of extensive perennial, vegetable, rain and prairie gardens on the shores of Lake Minnetonka in the Twin Cities. “I’m so lucky to have the free time to do it and to be able to indulge my passion.”
With great care, a special garden like Barbara’s can be captured in a moment in time and preserved for future generations who might learn from it. Just a few months ago, Barbara found out that her contemporary landscape would join a handful of
Minnesota gardens included in the Garden Club of America archives at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.
“It’s a huge honor,” she says. “Gardening is an art form that’s so ephemeral and really, if you don’t document it, it can disappear.”
Why This Garden?
“It’s been so thoughtfully put together, it’s just wonderful,” says Emily Johnson, who is one of several members of the Lake Minnetonka Garden Club who helped bring about the national recognition. For the past year and a half, the garden club team worked to satisfy the Smithsonian’s stringent requirements by documenting the garden. That included researching the
Story and photos by Gail Brown Hudson
With structure and plants, Barbara Burgum has created a garden to complement her Arts and Crafts style house.
property’s historical land ownership, gathering maps and drawings of the landscape design, and taking photographs of the Burgum garden throughout the growing season.
Emily remembers seeing the garden for the first time about five years ago. “I just was blown away by it,” she says. “It was breath-taking. I couldn’t believe how pretty it was.”
Historic Roots, Clean Lines
One of the qualities of the garden that makes it worthy of such recognition, Emily says, are its clean lines. The Deephaven landscape surrounds an Arts and Crafts house built in 1905 for James Flett Cargill, who was a brother of the founder of the Cargill family grain storage business. The sprawling lake cottage was featured in the book, Legendary Homes of Lake Minnetonka (Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2005) by Bette Hammel as one of Lake Minnetonka’s coveted properties. “It’s on such a great site,” Barbara says. “I’m very attached to it!” Barbara bought and began to restore the house in 1999, then tackled its surroundings nine years later—the “icing” to the project, she called it. A row of Annabelle hydrangeas in front of the house echo the elongated, slanted roof lines, and set the stage for views out kitchen windows of a large pergola, perennial sun and shade gardens, and low, fieldstone retaining walls.
“The perennials are amazing,” says Emily. “You
stand in that kitchen … and you look right out across to the garden that’s full of interesting plant material.”
Perennial Impact
A few stone steps up to the garden, the entrance of a brick path is marked by chubby stones standing on end or “fat boys,” as Barbara calls them. “They’re so eccentric and charming.” The walk heads in several directions, taking visitors past large beds of perennials in sun, then shade, which have been carefully chosen to create interest from early spring through fall.
In August, the garden path bursts with yellows and rose colors.
Below: Twilight lilies (Lilium tsingtauense) and hakone grass line a fence; Barbara Burgum in her garden. Bottom: Astrantia in the sun garden; daisies bloom in June.
Rooted in History
Barbara surveys her garden first thing in the morning in pajamas with a cup of coffee in hand. “I’m out there every day,” she says, evaluating the plant combinations for impact and vitality. She loves pairing purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea) with lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis). “Some plants have been moved so often that they come when they’re called,” she jokes. “They’re plants I love, but they’re hard to site.” The garden features Minnesota natives and cold-hardy specimens.
In early June, the garden glows with white and pink peonies, big stands of tall yellow bearded irises, vivid blue flag irises, wispy white alliums, dark beardtongue (Penstemon ‘Dark Towers’ PP20,013), pink wild geraniums and blue false indigo (Baptisia australis). Clematis vines of many colors have just begun to blossom on the wooden posts of the pergola, the main structural feature of the garden. “I wanted something that I could grow a lot of different vines up,” Barbara says. “It also created a pen to keep the deer out for precious things like lilies.”
By July, the bright pop of yellow coreopsis, orange blanket flower (Gaillardia), magenta bee balm (Monarda) and graceful pink astilbe dominate. In late summer, purple liatris, swaths
A Garden Archives
For a peek into gardens of the past, browse the Archives of American Gardens collection at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. Established in 1987, the collection contains over 100,000 images—including thousands of hand-painted, glass lantern slides—as well as records that document the evolution of gardens throughout the United States. The archives cover 4,500 gardens documented by The Garden Clubs of America from the 1920s to today. Currently, 28 Minnesota gardens are represented in the collection from the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chaska and Noerenberg Gardens in Wayzata to many private gardens. To view the archives, go to the Smithsonian Online Virtual Archives: https://sova. si.edu/ and look for the “Archives of American Gardens” at the bottom of the page. Scroll down for “The Garden Clubs of America” collection, then click on the “Contents” tab and “United States Garden Images.” —G.B.H.
Top: Two boulders flank the entry to a walkway. Above: Clematis viticella ‘Venosa Violacea’ climbs the pergola.
of black-eyed Susans and Mexican sunflowers take center stage. This is the time of year, Barbara says, that the garden is at its best.
A Prairie Garden
On the lakeside, the garden slants dramatically down to the water. At the turn of the century, this was considered the front of the house since many people arrived by boat. It had been a grass lawn divided by many brick steps. “You couldn’t even walk on it,” she says. “It was terrifying to watch it being mown with a stand-up mower.”
Prairie Restorations converted the lawn to a garden of drought-tolerant, deep-rooted prairie plants to fill the area and enhance the lake view from the wrap-around porch. “It’s not a true prairie,” Barbara says. “I just wanted more flowers and I have allowed a few nonnatives in there.” She waters only when the surrounding oak trees are drought-stressed, “because these big oaks are so valuable to me.”
This garden was designed to provide seasonal punch, too. In spring, violets, golden Alexanders and meadowsweet explode, then a midsummer flush of orange and gold dazzles with butterfly weed, 11 different kinds of yellow daisies, lavender liatris,
“It entertains you— every day it’s different and stunning.”
asters, blue false indigo and hardy phlox. By the fall, purples and yellows take over with coneflowers, joe-pye weed, blackeyed Susans and goldenrod.
“It entertains you—every day it’s different and stunning,” she says. “Lots of birds—hummingbirds—come and just work over the flowers.” Barbara has the area burned yearly to rejuvenate it. And yet, a hosta and a bearded iris have survived four rounds of mechanical sod stripping and fires. “I keep meaning to transplant them out of there, but they keep coming back,” she says.
Preventing Runoff
Barbara’s garden club members are also impressed by the water-retention areas built around the house, which catch rainwater that would otherwise wash down to the lake. “No gutters on the roof, so the runoff goes shooting off of it,” Barbara says.
Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) and tall pollinator-friendly plants camouflage a swale alongside the asphalt driveway, and concave areas on either side of walking paths collect water, too. “I try to stay on the paths and not compact the soil,” she says.
In the swale, monarchs cling to Liatris
The pergola anchors the main garden and is alive with bloom in June.
Rooted in History
Foliage is King
As Barbara continues to perfect the garden, she focuses a critical eye on each plant. “I’ve learned from Frank [Fitzgerald] and Fred [Rozumalski],” she says, two friends who are prominent landscape architects in the Twin Cities. “It has to have fabulous foliage … rather than a showy bloom.”
The pair created the overall sustainable design of the gardens, helping Barbara choose hundreds of plants and lay out the paths and stone walls. Barbara, Frank and Fred “really enjoy the fabulous diversity” of plants, she says. “If you can see it at a gas station parking lot (like ‘Stella de Oro’ daylilies), it’s time to get it out of my garden!”
“I can remember seeing the most incredible purple berry and that’s a beautyberry bush (Callicarpa americana),” says Emily. “I’ve never seen anything so unusual and that’s just one of the many things that she has.”
Future Improvements
Barbara says her goal now is to simplify her garden, and she refuses to plant any troublemakers. “If Japanese beetles eat it, I rip it out,” she says. She doesn’t have time to deal with plants “that need to be in intensive care all the time.” If a plant dies, she says Frank puts an “X” in front of it and it drops to the bottom of their plant list. “If I get enticed by it, order it and kill it again, it gets two ‘Xs’ in front of it,” she says, laughing. Barbara enjoys showing her garden to visitors, and now she can share it online with the global reach of the Smithsonian. And as her garden grows and matures, she continues to marvel at the nature outside her door. “You know the insects, the pollinators, the plants that thrive and the plants that slip away despite your best efforts,” she muses. “You could spend all day long learning.”
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The steep hill between Barbara’s house and the lake was planted with deep-rooted prairie plants, which add color and bring wildlife to the garden.
Right: Old-fashioned peonies remind visitors of the history of the house and garden. Far right: Lake Minnetonka and the prairie garden can be seen from the home’s porch.
Gail Brown Hudson has a Master’s degree in horticulture from the University of Minnesota. She is an Emmy® award-winning journalist, writer and video producer, as well as an avid gardener in Minneapolis.
BEST PLANTS FOR EVERY LIGHT
LOW (northern exposure or away from windows):
Aglaonema—easy care, effective at reducing toxins, according to NASA.
Calathea—best in moist soil.
Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior)—easy care.
Dracaena—easy, effective at reducing toxins. Philodendron—prefers dry soil, not pet-friendly, reduces toxins.
Pothos—easy, not pet-friendly, reduces toxins.
Snakeplant (Sansevieria)—easy, likes dry soil, not pet-friendly.
ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas)—easy, likes dry soil, not pet-friendly.
MEDIUM (bright, but not direct light):
African Violets—like moist soil.
Ferns—reduce toxins.
Ivy
Orchids—like dry soil.
Peperomia
Schefflera—not pet-friendly.
Spathiphyllum (peace lily)—reduces toxins.
THE INDOOR GARDEN
Houseplants upgrade your air—and your mood—all winter.
How would you like to improve your mental and physical health while adding pizzazz to your surroundings and participating in one of the hottest trends in gardening? Then spend a little green on green plants for inside your home. Research shows that plants in the home make us happier, reduce stress and improve overall well-being. Most Americans spend about 90 percent of their time indoors, where the air can be polluted with chemicals from cleaners, mold and building materials. Green plants absorb carbon dioxide, and scientists have discovered that they purify indoor air by neutralizing many harmful chemicals. A famous NASA study placed several houseplants in a closed chamber and found that the leaves and roots of plants removed almost 87 percent of harmful air toxins within a 24-hour period. Even the planting medium in
BRIGHT (near southern- or western-facing windows)
Succulents—easy, like dry soil. Cacti—easy, like dry soil. Ficus—likes moist soil, reduces toxins.
Croton (Codieuam)
Palms—reduce toxins. Aloe vera—easy, likes dry soil, not pet-friendly.
Story and photos by Diane McGann
Dieffenbachia is easy care and brings a tropical feel to your home.
The Indoor Garden
houseplants plays a role. Indoor plants also raise humidity levels, reducing your chances of developing a dry cough or sore throat.
It’s no wonder that green plants and flowers cheer us up, particularly in the long, dark days of winter. They also perk up our home decor. A tall plant, or one placed on a plant stand, can soften a corner or block an undesirable outdoor view. Colorful foliage adds interest, and a blooming plant offers a boost of color. Indoor plants might even remind us of our heritage, as many plants can be passed from generation to generation. Whether inherited from a family member or bought new, indoor plants are especially popular among young adults. “They want something to take care of,” explains Karen Bachman Thull, director of marketing and corporate communications for Bachman’s Floral, Home and Garden Center in Minneapolis. “Indoor plants add interest and personality to any space and brighten a dorm room or condo.”
Find Your Perfect Match
Most houseplants are native to the tropics, so it’s important to provide an indoor setting that suits them. Study the light conditions in which you’ll place your new purchase before heading to the garden center or nursery. While some indoor plants tolerate a variety of situations, most have a definite
preference for certain lighting conditions. Think, too, of the moisture content of the room where your new acquisition will reside. Orchids, air plants and other moisture-loving plants are good choices for a bathroom or kitchen, and if you’re lucky enough to have a warm, sun-filled room, consider a heat-loving choice, such as palm, cactus, succulent or fern. Information from nursery staff and plant tags can be helpful. Once you find some good candidates, look for specimens that have bright and firm leaves and appear to be growing vigorously.
Jess Heimer, houseplant manager at Mother Earth Gardens in Minneapolis, reports that cactus and other succulents reign as top plant choices among her customers. Plants in either category make an excellent choice for the beginning indoor gardener who has a sunny spot to fill. Very forgiving and needing little care, succulents such as jade plant and aloe may last for years. Heimer often recommends air plants, epiphytes that don’t need soil, as perfect partners for an office setting, and reports that her customers also like fiddle leaf figs, Pilea and calatheas.
Taking Care
Care requirements differ from plant to plant. Some, including most cacti and other succulents, love dry soil, while others, such as Ficus benjamina, prefer a moist planting medium. The general rule is to water plants when the soil is dry about an inch down from the top of the planting medium. Like all rules, however, there are exceptions. Cacti and succulents thrive in dryer soil than ferns and ficus, so waiting a bit longer to water them is a good idea. Overwatering will create more problems than under-watering, so if you’re not sure whether moisture is needed, wait a bit longer. When watering, use room temperature, unsoftened water and soak the plant until moisture runs through the holes in the bottom of the pot. Always use plant containers that have drainage holes;
In low-light situations, choose plants like Chinese evergreen ferns.
If you have the room for it, go big with an indoor tree such as this fiddle leaf fig tree.
Group plants with similar light needs together.
WHAT SCIENCE SAYS
• Rooms with indoor plants contain up to 60 percent fewer airborne molds and bacteria than rooms without plants. (Pennsylvania State University, 2009)
• Active interaction with indoor plants often reduces physiological and psychological stress. (Journal of Physiological Anthropology, 2015)
• Indoor plants and flowers in the workplace improve creative performance and problem-solving skills. (Texas A&M University, 2003)
• Workplace plants also improve productivity, concentration and a feeling of well-being by up to 47 percent and increase memory retention by up to 20 percent. (Exeter University, 2013)
• Close proximity to plants helps patients feel calmer and heal faster from injuries. (Kansas State University. 2006) —D.M.
you can slip the container into a more decorative pot or place it on a saucer. Toss any water that collects in the saucer or outer container to prevent root rot. It’s also helpful to establish a regular watering schedule, such as every 10 days. Watering irregularly leads to salt build up, resulting in burnt leaf tips.
Prevention is the best plan to counter insects. If your plants spend warm months outside, thoroughly rinse them before bringing them inside. Anytime you bring in a new plant, even from a nursery or friend’s house, check the undersides of the leaves as well as the soil, so that you don’t bring in critters that will then spread to your other plants.
You’ll know your houseplant has gotten too big for its pot when you see roots emerging from the holes at the bottom of the pot or the plant is heaving out of
the container. You can root prune your houseplant by trimming the root ball on all sides and reinserting it into the container. Use additional planting medium, ideally a potting mix or soil made particularly for houseplants, to fill the void. The other option is to move your plant to a larger container. Choose one that is an inch or two larger than the present container, and again, add new planting medium. Soaking the plant a day or two before either of these operations will help increase the chances of success.
It’s Easy!
Despite the foregoing recommendations, most indoor plants need little maintenance. Look at them critically now and then, and prune any unsightly growth or dead leaves. Clean them periodically, so that the leaves will not only look fresh
CACTUS VS. SUCCULENT
Confusion often reigns about the differences between cacti and succulents. Most cacti are classified as succulents, but some succulents, such as jade plant, are not cacti. The primary difference is that cacti sport bumps or spikes, called areoles, from which hairs or thorns grow, but succulents do not. —D.M.
but also be able to absorb more sunshine. Most experts recommend fertilizing lightly each month during the growing season, but only sparingly in winter. Remember, too, to keep indoor plants away from drafty windows, heat vents and exterior doors. They don’t like those cold breezes any more than we do.
Just try it. Buy yourself a philodendron, pothos or other easy-care plant, place it where you can easily see it, and enjoy all of the benefits houseplants bestow. As Karen Bachman Thull’s grandmother, Marion Bachman, always said, “A day wasn’t a day without arranging flowers or caring for a plant.”
That’s a good philosophy for us all to adopt.
Stillwater-based Diane McGann is a U of M Extension master gardener.
Orchids like moisture, so the bathroom is a great place for them.
Neighboring business owners transform a dingy alley into a go-to garden in downtown White Bear Lake.
By
Pretty Pocket Garden
When Terry Kellerman and his wife, Anne, purchased a circa-1907 building on Fourth Street in downtown White Bear Lake in 1999, they imagined what wonders the artistic Terry could create inside the structure that had once been a YMCA, dance studio, theater, antique shop and furniture reproduction factory. It even housed the city’s first library for a while. But they didn’t give much thought to the accompanying property—an alleyway, which served as a turnaround for the auto body shop to the west.
“It was rough,” says Terry of the narrow slip of land, a 20-by-175-foot ragtag
rectangle of gravel, oil spots and a few unruly weeds.
But in 2011, after years of work on what would become Kellerman’s Event Center (along with Big Wood Brewery and eventually The Alchemist, a specialty cocktail bar), Terry turned his attention to that outdoor space. With the addition of a catalpa tree and a meandering sidewalk installed to help make the event center handicap-accessible, that little underused tract began a metamorphosis that would eventually draw in wedding parties, photographers, garden lovers and out-of-town visitors looking for an
unexpected spot of joy. And things took root from there.
A Garden Partnership
Terry initially had a simple view of the space; he thought he’d plant a few flowers, a couple of shrubs and call it a day. But here’s where Celine Carlson, owner of the Keys Cafe & Bakery on the other side of the body shop, came into the picture, er, garden.
“Celine’s son was getting married so she came to me with an idea that she could make it look nice for the wedding and I’d let her use the space,” says Terry.
Nancy Eike
Photos by Mary Lahr Schier
With lush plantings and a meandering path, the garden is popular with photographers and downtown visitors.
“Basically, we traded services.”
And a garden partnership was formed.
“He didn’t even know if the space was going to be finished by the time of the wedding,” says Celine. “I told him I didn’t care if it was or not, as long as the garden looked nice.”
So Celine got busy. When she wasn’t making comfort-food fare and baked goods for Keys, she was digging in the new garden. “I worked on it the whole summer,” says Celine. She turned to her favorite plants, the ones she knew would create the kind of garden that would be the perfect spot for a wedding, including ‘Quickfire’ hydrangeas, Japanese gold forest grass, verbena, zinnias, dahlias, lavender, Tithonia and much more.
And, although it was close, the wedding went off without a hitch.
The next summer, her daughter was getting married, so, yep, they worked out the same arrangement. “It was two years in a row,” says Celine. “And then he couldn’t get rid of me.”
A Lifetime of Gardening
Celine has always been enthralled with the act and the art of gardening. “My mom wasn’t a real big gardener, but I had two friends whose parents were big gardeners, and I remember being so enamored of that,” Celine says.
Every home she’s had since she was a little girl has had a garden, big or small. She recently moved to a condo, selling her home in Scandia, which had a whopping 7½ acres of land brimming with gardens. “That yard almost killed me,” she says. “It kind of became a chore
because I couldn’t enjoy my summer. We would have tours and parties, and it was just too much.”
Which is why the pocket garden has so much appeal: its compact size affords Celine the opportunity to be creative, to feel the earth in her hands and the sun on her face, and, for all intents and purposes, to commune with nature. And nurture the community.
“This garden is so public,” she says, “and I’m meeting new people all day long. Everybody wants to stop and talk, and everybody has a story to share.”
Celine Carson, a fellow business owner, designed and planted most of the garden with Terry and Anne Kellerman.
NANCY EIKE
Left: The pocket garden is filled with containers of mixed annuals.
Below: Fun garden ornaments brighten the former alley.
Pretty Pocket Garden
Celine’s Garden Advice
• The trick to a memorable garden, big or small, is to create an experience. It should inspire your guests to wander and wonder how it all came together so beautifully.
• Every plant can be trimmed to mix well with other plants surrounding it. Celine will prune plants so garden visitors can see through them to what lies just beyond.
• A focal point is a must, the more unexpected the better!
• Keep up on maintenance. No garden should be left unattended for too long.
—N.E.
Left: An antique trunk on a German potato cart is one of the garden’s eye-catching features. Below: A wall-mounted fountain creates sound and the bright coleus add color to the garden.
Small Garden, Big Impact
Since 2012, Terry, Anne and Celine have made the most of the relatively diminutive space. They’ve planted and pruned, sculpted and staked. Take a stroll on the sidewalk and you’ll find hydrangea trees, dogwoods, a magnolia tree, coleus, viburnum, an apple tree, succulents and perennials and annuals galore.
Large iron pots, including ones with plaques reading “Carl” and “Brian,” named after friends and former owners of a floral shop, are placed carefully in the space. Decorative iron pieces and a fountain also add to its charm.
Terry’s artistic and construction expertise is evident in Kellerman’s Event Center’s renovated interior—complete with exposed brick, 17-foot fir-wood ceiling, handcrafted European storefronts and hardwood floors—and is also on full display in the garden. A stream with a waterfall is the perfect backdrop for a fairy village, where fairies flit from fairy homes to woodland. “I was in Germany right before I built that so I knew I wanted to create a mountainous scene and forest,” says Terry.
He affixed an antique trunk to a German potato cart from the 1850s, and brought in wheels and an under-carriage from an old train car to kick it up a notch. String lights and music, depending on Terry’s mood on a particular day, set the tone.
“Everything goes,” says Celine. “If you think something goes in a garden, it goes.”
A Year-Round Delight
Once the summer garden was established, Terry and Celine decided not to limit the space to just warm months. With the snap of fall, the garden is pruned and put to bed. Then they bring in pumpkins and create an autumnal oasis. “In the fall, if everything is well-kept, there is just a beauty to the garden,” Celine says.
For the holidays, they put a Santa on the roof, add some cavorting reindeer and decorate the massive pots with spruce tops and pops of brilliant red to make the setting look like something from a storybook. “We try to make it a winter wonderland,” says Terry.
Build It and They Will Come
On the day of my visit, a young couple was being photographed in the garden, a pair of mint-green baby moccasins held just so in front of the small baby bump of the mom-to-be. They were elated to share their life-changing news by taking photos in this petite garden, their laughs heard above the breeze and music.
“Those kinds of things happen all the time here,” says Terry. “There are wedding parties taking photos, graduates getting their pictures taken, people just walking through and enjoying the garden; there is someone in here every day. I used to be more quiet, but now I talk more because people are always talking to me about the garden, asking questions, making nice comments.”
Celine says, “It was a hidden gem that isn’t quite so hidden now. And that’s exactly what we want.”
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Nancy Eike is a Twin Cities-based freelance writer, editor, blogger and gardener.
Above: An arch frames the garden entry. Below: A Quickfire® hydrangea tree blooms in late summer.
SHADE SUPERSTARS
Let these exceptional, easy-to-grow perennials liven up your shady gardens.
I used to be thrilled to have a mostly full-sun backyard with endless, colorful flower possibilities. In time, the trees loomed over the gardens, and I added a four-season porch to my home, creating generous sunless areas.
Shade gardening didn’t entice me right away; I envisioned waves of boring green foliage in different sizes and textures. After a while, I figured out how to choose the right plants for the amount of shade, and how to combine gorgeous leaf and flower colors along with essential texture. All of my shady areas receive some sun, but it is mostly soft morning light. I did a lot of experimenting to see what will grow where—and in what combination.
I couldn’t go wrong with the obvious hostas and coralbells, but I wanted to add plenty of shade perennials—not just the usual suspects. It’s those visually exciting, shade-loving plants that will transform any shade garden from so-so to wow.
Here are 15 perennials certain to return year after year and give shady gardens a five-star rating, plus some suggestions for plants to combine them with for truly stellar looks.
Uvularia
This one is tough to miss. Interesting and unusual is how I would describe Uvularia grandiflora, a native woodland plant reaching 18 to 24 inches that prefers slightly moist soil. The bell-shaped, downward-facing flowers are a gem in shade to part-shade gardens, and they attract many types of bees. Enjoy the foliage after the flowers disappear in midspring. Combine with lady’s slipper, Pulmonaria, Lenten rose and Tiarella.
Bleeding Heart
A cottage garden essential, bleeding heart (Dicentra) has been a longtime favorite in my shade to part-shade
Story and photos by Michelle Mero Riedel
‘Red Beauty’ painted fern adds needed color to the shade border.
Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum ‘Red Beauty’), foreground, with Gold Heart bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’)
garden. The photogenic flowers on the plant’s graceful, long stems are the perfect accompaniments to its attractive leaves and other spring blooms. Some of the taller species die back, so plant placement in the back garden is a must. Foliage colors come in green, blue-green and, my favorite, gold. Look for white, pink or red heart-shaped flowers on plants ranging from 8 to 24 inches tall. Combine with Virginia bluebells, astilbes, turtleheads and columbines.
Bloodroot
The short, daisylike bloodroot flowers are adorable in any woodland garden. But it’s the plant’s rare-looking leaves that get the most attention. Bloodroot’s 3- to 5-inch basal leaves resemble a maple leaf. It’s a native plant that prefers part sun in the spring in order to flower, then part to full shade in the summer months. Bloodroot deserves the front row in any made-for-the-shade garden. Combine with primroses, vinca and lamium.
Lady’s
Slipper
Queen of the May and June garden, this native orchid gets positive appraisals from passersby. It’s on my early-season to-do list to add more lady’s slippers to my shady garden front border. Lady’s slippers can take a year or two to get established in a new garden before flowering, but they’re well worth the wait. They prefer moist, well-drained organic soil and shade to part shade. Combine with hostas, lungworts and lady’s mantles.
Astilbe
Much like artist Claude Monet, I paint the early summer garden with herbaceous border drifts of pink, purple, red and white astilbes. Few part- to full-shade plants light up and provide astilbe’s alluring effect. When not in bloom, the plant’s fernlike foliage is attractive on its own. If winter interest is important, don’t cut off the caramel-colored blooms. Give astilbes evenly moist soil and a little morning sun so they thrive and become a top-notch perennial star. Combine with carex, hakone grass, big-leafed hostas and coralbells.
Astilbe x arendsii ‘Sister Theresa’
Yellow lady’s slipper (Cypripedium parviflorum)
15 Shade Superstars
Martagon Lily
Should you plant a lily for the June shade garden? The answer is yes. These 3- to 4-foot-tall graceful beauties come in a variety of colors. Their delicate, downward flowers are usually characterized by specks of freckles on the petals or tepals. Loads of flowers adorn a stem that may die back after blooming, so tuck them away in the garden’s back border. They like good drainage, prefer fall planting and grow slower than other lilies. I recently added white flowering ‘Album’ to my garden, and I might not see a bloom until 2020. Combine with ligularia, ferns and turtleheads.
‘Painter’s Palette’ Knotweed
I’m a fan of variegated foliage, so when a gardener friend offered me a knotweed plant (Persicaria virginiana), I was thrilled. And after the first growing season, I was even more thrilled. In late summer, long, thin, graceful red stems with tiny red flowers appeared above attractive, mounded 18-inch foliage. Painted knotweed prefers shade to part shade, but it can also handle more sun in a site with well-drained soil. Combine with hostas, turtleheads, ligularia and astilbes.
Painted Fern
Short, slow-growing ferns are a musthave shade or total-shade garden plant. I rarely bother with the solid green varieties that can spread everywhere. The painted-fern fronds are mostly silver and mottled with gray, burgundy, purple or light green. Their low, mounded habit and dramatic, elaborate texture will stand out next to almost any shade plant. They are easy to care for, but they prefer moist, well-drained soil. Combine with ajuga, coralbells, lungworts and gingers.
Carex
There are so many shady carex to choose from. They’re not technically a grass, but they’re in the sedge, grasslike family. I landscape with carex for their flowing—sometimes arching—fine-textured leaves. I also like their variegated or colorful foliage. Yellow and variegated carex are my favorites, but they are also available in blue and green. From 8 inches to 3 feet tall, there’s a carex for the rear woodland border or for lining a pathway. Carex prefers moist, well-drained soil, and part sun to shade. Combine with hostas, foam flowers and bleeding hearts.
Ligularia
What should you put in a moist, shady spot? Ligularia is the answer. The plant has two types of distinctive leaves and two types of late-blooming flowers. Leaves come in round like lily pads, or wide and toothed in bright green or dark maroon foliage. I select both the short and tall forms for the border and back of the garden. The plant’s flowers look daisylike above dark foliage plants or tall flower spikes, similar to a delphinium, and they tower above green foliage. Combine with turtleheads, Rodgersia and astilbes.
Carex siderosticha ‘Variegata’
Rodgersia
I’m always a fan of tropical-looking palmate leaves, and Rodgersia is striking on its own or grouped together in any shade garden. Its plant height is about 3 feet in a part-shade garden and 4 feet with the towering flower. Give this one a little more light, and in midsummer it will reward the back garden with astilbe-like white or pink flowers that are much appreciated by pollinators. A moist or boglike environment is best for Rodgersia. Combine with astilbes, sedges and big hostas.
Goatsbeard
I have easy-maintenance, showy goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus) in many forms. My favorite is the 8-inch mounded mini form. I also have the 15-inch and 30-inch varieties in my shade and part-shade garden areas, and some varieties can grow as tall as 6 feet. Similar to an astilbe, goatsbeard is known for its perfect blue-green or all-green, fernlike foliage, and its modest creamy-white plumes. Goatsbeard prefers slightly moist, rich soil. Combine with columbines, monkshoods, painted ferns and gingers.
White Baneberry
For the wildflower shade garden, baneberry is well suited to both full shade and part shade. In the springtime, the plant’s white flower clusters are on display. In summer, the white, pearl-size novelty berries appear on dark-pink stems. At 2 feet tall, baneberry complements many shade perennials with fine-textured foliage. It resists pests fairly well, since all parts of the plant are toxic. Combine with gingers, painted ferns and large hostas.
Bergenia
I love this plant’s eye-catching, thick, heart-shaped foliage along the garden border all season. Bergenia’s springtime towering pink blooms are gorgeous, but its semi-evergreen foliage, much like lettuce, is the superstar part of the plant. I like to add it as a stand-alone star, or put it in a landscape grouping. Bergenia desires full or part shade with evenly moist soil. Best of all, the plant’s foliage turns bronze in the fall. Combine with lungworts, painted ferns and Solomon’s seals.
Shredded Umbrella
This plant may be difficult to find, but it’s worth the search. I picked up a bunch at the Friends School Plant Sale last year. I wanted an unusual, showy grouping along the garden border. Each young leaf covered with fuzzy, white whiskers slowly opens to form a cute 12-inch umbrella. For a garden with mostly moist, welldrained soil, shredded umbrella gives a southern, warm-weather look. Combine with painted ferns, ajuga and lamium.
U of M Extension master gardener and professional photographer Michelle Mero Riedel is a frequent contributor to Northern Gardener. r
Full sun is easy to define. It’s at least six hours or more of light per day. So how is shade defined? Shade is broken down into part shade and full shade.
Part shade: Sometimes called part sun, part shade is defined as three to four hours of sun. Most shade perennials can handle three to five hours as long as it’s dappled sun or softer sun like in the morning or evening. Most shade perennials are not able to handle more than an hour of the strong afternoon sun. r
Full shade: There are some shade perennials that can handle a garden area that doesn’t receive any direct sunlight. Full shade is defined as one to three hours of soft, direct sun.
—M.M.R.
Waterlilies More
&
Itwas a magazine article with pretty photos of waterlilies growing in decorative containers that coaxed me to first put my hands in the water decades ago. Taking that initial dip added a new dimension to my gardening. It exposed me to an entirely different palette of plants—the elegant and colorful waterlilies, shallow water plants and plants that float.
These three types of plants form the core of a water garden, whether it’s a small container or a large pond. There are hundreds of varieties—and after many years of water gardening, I’ve got my favorites of each type.
The Best of the Waterlilies
I have grown 60 or more varieties of waterlilies, just a drop in the pond of the hundreds available. The best of the waterlilies are winter-hardy, bloom profusely and are readily available, locally or by mail. I define a good bloomer as a couple dozen or more flowers each season.
Waterlilies are either hardy or tropical. Both types are rooted in soil under the water and send their foliage and flowers up to or above the water’s surface. Hardy varieties will survive
Choose the best plants for your water garden, no matter how big or small.
in USDA Zone 4 and maybe zone 3, if the rootstock does not freeze. Tropical waterlilies are annuals this far north.
Hardy waterlilies open in the morning and close each afternoon for three days. Flower colors can be white, red, yellow, pink or many shades of those colors. Full sun—six hours or more—is best but some will tolerate less.
Nymphaea ‘Attraction’ and N. ‘Chromatella’ are longtime popular cultivars. The first is red with green pads and the latter blooms a bright yellow with green pads accented with bronze mottling. Both will bloom in part sun and are reliably winter-hardy.
Other good choices include N. ‘Colorado’ (apricot), N. ‘Pink Beauty’, N. ‘Pink Grapefruit’, (pink-yellow two-tone) and N. ‘Gladstone (white). N. ‘Wanvisa’ (salmon-pink with white/ cream flecks) brings the element of surprise, as it may produce variant flowers, which bloom in lighter or darker hues or have flowers with vivid yellow petals.
Options for container water gardens include the dwarf N. ‘Helvola’ (yellow) and N. ‘Little Sue’ (changeable from light to dark apricot).
Tropical waterlilies are either day- or night-blooming, with
Story and photos by Soni Forsman
First- (right) and second-day blooms of ‘Mrs. Perry D. Slocum’ lotus
some day-bloomers coming in shades of blue and purple. One of those is N. ‘Lindsey Woods’ with deep purple blooms and black sepals. The green pads have some mottling.
Night-bloomers open about dusk and close in the morning. They require full sun during the day to perform in the dark. They come in white, red and pink, but I always gravitate toward the white because it contrasts with dark water and sparkles under the stars and in the moonlight. Favorite whites include N. ‘Trudy Slocum’ and N. ‘Wood’s White Knight’. For a red variety, try N. ‘Jennifer Rebecca’.
Shallow Water Plants
These plants frame the water garden, accenting or softening the edge while blending the water with its surroundings. While some may flower, foliage takes center stage. Choices in this category are abundant: Bog bean and water iris for spring color; sweet flag for all-season structure; cattails growing 18 inches to 4 feet or more; sedges; lizard’s tail and, for a touch of the tropics, Cyperus plants or colocasias.
Aquatic irises are beardless and grow in shallow water. They have creeping rhizomes and bloom midspring to early summer. Northern Blue Flag iris (Iris versicolor) blooms mid- to late spring bringing early color to the water garden. The upright foliage attains a height of 30-plus inches. The falls have purple veining accented with yellow and a touch of white. It is hardy to zone 3. Louisiana irises bloom a few weeks after the versicolor varieties. They have larger blooms in many colors and variegations. These southern irises are reported to be hardy with winter protection. ‘Black Gamecock’ (deep purple) is commonly available and the most hardy. The rhizomes spread aggressively and if it’s grown in containers, it should be divided after flowering.
Sweet flag is the common name for several members of the genus Acorus. All have upright irislike foliage that sprouts from spreading rhizomes. Both the roots and foliage emit a sweet scent when bruised, hence the common name. They like full sun but will tolerate some shade.
Acorus calamus is often available from nurseries specializing in native plants. The foliage is green and grows to about 30 inches. A. calamus ‘Variegatus’ is the most popular variety. Its swordlike foliage has creamy white and green longitudinal stripes and grows upwards of 3 feet. Hardy in zone 4. A. gramineus ‘Ogon’ and ‘Oborozuki’ are compact similar-looking plants, growing 6 to 12 inches. The foliage is striped yellow or golden with green. These Japanese grasses are short in stature but tall in color. Ogon looks more yellow while Oborozuki appears more golden. These plants are not considered hardy in zone 4. Both are good for container water gardens.
Lizard’s tail (Saururus cernuus) is native to the Eastern part of the United States as far west as Wisconsin. I see this plant for sale locally but seldom see it in a water garden. In a container, it grows 24 to 30 inches tall. It has green, heartshaped leaves with white flower spikes made up of many small flowers. The flower spike arches over as small green seeds develop, forming a lizard-tail look. Hardy to zone 4.
Left: N. ‘Jennifer Rebecca’
Below: N. ‘Trudy Slocum’ in morning light
Not commonly grown, Lizard’s tail (Saururus cernuus) adds height to water gardens.
Waterlilies and More
How Many Plants?
How many plants do you need to fill a water garden? It depends on the size. I consider a small water garden to be a container, probably on a deck or patio, or an in-ground pond that measures 3 by 5 feet or slightly larger. My own pond is 8 by 13 feet, which I consider medium-sized.
Small water garden—To stock a container, such as a half wooden barrel, I use a small waterlily and a shallow-water plant that grows 24 to 30 inches tall. I may toss in a floating aquatic. Instead of the waterlily, I sometimes use three shallow-water plants, mixing and matching the heights, colors and shapes of the foliage. For the small in-ground water garden, add three or five shallow-water plants and a larger waterlily.
Medium water garden—In my water garden, three waterlilies shade about three-fourths of the water’s surface. Three groupings of a limited selection of shallow-water plants highlight the edge while softening it.
Keep the number and height of plants in scale with the garden’s dimensions. For in-ground water gardens, leave some open water to reflect the surroundings contributing to the overall beauty of the scene.
—S.F.
Cyperus plants are tropical. They range in height from 24 to 72 inches. The columnar stems are topped with foliage heads. Some foliage is open, airy with thin leaves, while others are dense, bushy and full. Treat as annuals or over winter as houseplants. Cyperus alternifolius has narrow leafy foliage that forms the classic umbrella shape, leading to its common name, umbrella plant. There are dwarf forms of this plant. Cyperus papyrus grasses include the Tuts. Graceful Grasses® King Tut™ is the tallest, growing up to 72 inches. Prince Tut™ grows to half of that. Both have stems topped with large, bushy poms. Baby Tut™ is 18 to 24 inches tall with stems capped with narrow leaves.
Floating Plants
The most popular plants in this classification are water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes). The roots of both dangle in the water, collecting debris and taking up nutrients, which helps starve out algae. Hyacinths have a bulblike area at the base of the shiny green leaves that provides buoyancy. Its lavender-blue flowers bloom from one to two days in full sun. Once established, it spreads quickly by stolons and requires thinning.
Water lettuce resembles an open head of lettuce, with light green leaves with a ribbed, velvety appearance. New plants grow from the base of an adult plant. It also spreads but not as aggressively as the hyacinth. Protect from afternoon sun. Both are annual plants.
N. ‘Helvola’ is a good option for container water gardens.
Water hyacinth requires thinning once established.
Lotus
I couldn’t write an article about water plants and not include the lotus. It looks tropical but is amazingly hardy. It is a perennial in zone 4, if the tuber does not freeze. This plant grows in shallow water but is the perfect specimen plant in a large, decorative container. It needs full sun and blooms best if the summer is hot. Slightly funnel-shaped pads and large blooms sit atop stiff stems. ‘Mrs. Perry D. Slocum’ is one of the most popular lotus cultivars in North America. The somewhat double flower opens pink and is yellow the second day. Each bloom lasts three days. Water plants are available in a passel of attractive choices, making selection a daunting task. Strive for a lush look, not a busy, chaotic one, by selecting a few plants of a couple of varieties rather than one of each. A water garden of any size should be a tranquil place.
Responsible Plant Disposal
Water hyacinth (Eichhornia crasssipes) and water lettuce (Pista stratiotes) are invasive nonnative species. States as far north as Wisconsin list both as prohibited aquatic plants, which means it is illegal to purchase, possess and bring them into the state.
In Minnesota, water hyacinth is listed as a regulated plant. It can be sold, bought and transported into the state but it is illegal to release or plant it in public waters. Hybrid hardy waterlilies are also on Minnesota’s regulated aquatic plant list. Water lettuce is not on either list, but it cannot go into public waters.
To keep these popular water plants legal in Minnesota, responsible disposal of these and all aquatic plants is necessary. Lakes, ponds and rivers are not dumping sites for water garden plants. —S.F.
Eagan-based Soni Forsman is a long-time contributor to Northern Gardener.
Sweet flag and cattails flank this waterfall and stream.
N. ‘Attraction’
Water lettuce must be disposed of properly. ng
Ramp It Up!
The new ‘it’ onion is a forager’s favorite, but you can grow it, too.
By Samantha Johnson
If you’ve stopped by any farmers’ market or upscale restaurant in recent years, you’ve likely noticed that ramps (Allium tricoccum) are having their moment in the spotlight. There’s just something magical about ramps.
Native to North America, they grow wild in the quiet forested areas of Canada and throughout the Appalachian Mountains and the Midwest. They go by several common names—wild leeks and mountain garlic—in addition to ramps. The city of Chicago is said to have gotten its name from ramps; the Native American word shikaakwa (or chi-
cagou) referred to a garliclike plant that experts have determined was Allium tricoccum. These shikaakwa plants grew in vast profusion in the 17th century in what is now Chicago.
Nineteenth-century American newspapers mention “gathering wild leeks from the woods in the spring” and describe them as the “first spring vegetable.” An 1877 paper recounts the way the “wild leeks had thrust their spears through the coating of old dry leaves of last summer.”
But if ramps have been around for so long, why are they currently one of the coolest kids in the allium family?
DAN JOHNSON
Plant ramps as transplants or bulbs for best results as they grow very slowly from seed.
“In a hurry? Don’t grow ramps from seed.”
A Foodie Favorite
The “foodie” movement has played a part, of course, and the delicious onion-garlic flavor of ramps has undoubtedly had an impact. Limited availability—because of the short time fresh ramps are in season each year—is another factor.
The trend toward foraged food has also been an instrumental part of propelling wild leeks into public view. Envision this: you’re hiking in the forest on an early spring day and you happen upon a majestic stand of sugar maple trees. A dense green carpet covers the forest floor and closer examination reveals that this green carpet is actually a large patch of ramps.
Sound intriguing? It is, but there’s a catch. The widespread demand for ramps has resulted in unsustainable harvesting practices that have significantly affected their populations in the wild. In some areas, they’re even considered to be endangered. But the good news is that foraging for ramps is unnecessary when you know how to propagate ramps right on your own property.
Growing Your Own
The vast majority of ramps grow in the wild, and the idea of growing them at home is still somewhat new. But even though most enthusiasts rely on wild-harvested ramps, why not grow your own? Here are seven things to keep in mind as you get started.
1
Ramps love cool, shady locations. They grow best in deciduous forests and they thrive in soil amended with dried leaf matter. That’s why your full-sun vegetable garden is not
the ideal place to situate your plants. If you have an option to plant your ramps in a shady area underneath some deciduous trees, by all means choose that, but if not, you’ll have to provide makeshift shade in order for your ramps to thrive. Mimic the conditions of a shady forest area by amending soil with plenty of organic matter and mulching your ramps with dried leaves. Ramps dislike dry soil, so aim for lightly damp conditions during the growing season.
2
Ramps are “spring ephemeral” plants and have a short growing season. The plants send up leaves in early spring and reach a height of about 8 inches, but the leaves only last for a short time, after which the plant dies back and returns to dormancy. Unharvested bulbs will send up flowers later in the summer, which contain the seedpods that then fall on the soil to create new plants in years to come.
3
In a hurry? Don’t grow ramps from seed. While it’s certainly possible to cultivate ramps from seed, it isn’t the recommended method because the process takes many years. If you’re interested in expediting the process (who isn’t?), opt to plant from bulbs or transplant purchased ramps
4
You can plant bulbs any time from fall to spring. As long as the ground is not frozen, you can plant. Avoid planting bulbs during the heat of the summer. Aim for a depth of 3 inches when planting bulbs; this provides room for the roots while still allowing the top tip of the bulb to sit just about at soil level. Space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart.
Ramps grow best in the rich soil under deciduous trees.
Transplanting existing plants is an early spring project. You can divide existing clumps to create new ones; dig carefully to preserve the roots and protect the bulbs. Plant them at the same depth as they were sitting in the ground and space the plants or clumps of plants 4 to 6 inches apart.
Leaf mulch is your friend. Whether you’re planting bulbs or transplanting plants, apply a generous layer of leaf mulch on top of your bulbs and plants.
5 6 7
Allow your ramps to grow and colonize for at least two years before harvesting. Even then, harvest sparingly. People typically harvest both the leaves and bulbs, but this ends the life of the plant—it cannot regrow once the bulb is harvested. It’s possible to harvest only a few leaves from each plant, al-
1 (9-inch) prepared pie crust in a baking dish
10 ramps, thoroughly cleaned, chopped, and roots trimmed
6 eggs
1 cup half-and-half
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 slices deli ham, diced
1-1/2 cups Swiss cheese, grated
lowing the underground bulb to grow and spread. This is a more sustainable practice. If you do harvest the bulbs, aim to harvest no more than 10 percent of your ramps each year. This ensures that a healthy population remains to spread and grow.
Ramps in the Kitchen
Ramps are versatile in cooking. You can keep things simple by sautéing, frying or pickling your ramps, or you can up your game by including ramps in your favorite quiches, soups and biscuits. Or try ramp butter for an easy and delicious way to infuse the onion-garlic flavor into an array of dishes.
Based in northern Wisconsin, Samantha Johnson is the author of several books, including The Beginner’s Guide to Vegetable Gardening, (Voyageur Press, 2013).
In a skillet, sauté the chopped ramps in olive oil, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes.
In a bowl, whisk together the eggs and the half-and-half.
Add garlic powder, salt, pepper, sautéed ramps, deli ham and cheese, then mix well.
Pour the mixture into the crust.
Bake in a 375-degree oven for 35 to 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the pan comes out clean. Makes 6 servings.
You can cook with the bulbs of ramps, the leaves or both. All parts have a delicious onion-garlic flavor.
CHEESE, HAM AND RAMPS QUICHE
CONFERENCE SPEAKERS
ROBIN WALL KIMMERER, Ph.D.
The Language of Plants
How traditional indigenous teachings can help heal our relationship with nature
MICHAEL LYNCH
Botanist and Restoration Ecologist Discusses Botanical Wanderings Exploring personal connections with nature
LARRY WEANER, ASLA
Living in the Liberated Landscape
How our gardens and landscapes can be a source of environmental change Feb 16, 2019 University of St. Thomas, St. Paul
• Grow Better Melons in 2019
• Native Plants for Dry Shade
www.northerngardener.org
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northern view
W The Persistent Botanist
hen Donna Strickland, an associate professor at Canada’s University of Waterloo, won the Nobel Prize in Physics recently for her work with lasers, she was surprised to hear that she was the third woman ever to receive that award—the first being Marie Curie in 1903, followed by Maria Goeppert-Mayer in 1963. Even more surprising, though, was that a second woman, Frances Arnold, a chemical engineering professor at the California Institute of Technology, won the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 2018 for her work directing the evolution of enzymes.
Arnold, who describes her work as breeding at the molecular level, was the fifth woman to be awarded the Nobel in Chemistry. I remember those figures, third and fifth, because the headlines announcing the two women’s wins were so infuriating: “Nobel Prize in Chemistry Goes to a Woman for the Fifth Time in History” and “Donna Strickland Becomes First Woman in More Than 50 Years to Win Physics Nobel Prize.” Here it is 2018 and the fact that women won Nobel Prizes, particularly in science, is so unusual, news of their gender nearly eclipses their extraordinary accomplishments. Since their inception in 1901, Nobels have been awarded to 900 people—51 of them have been women. Only eight women have ever won Nobel Prizes in physics or chemistry. Reading those stats, this thought popped into my mind: In elementary school, I learned that John Glenn drank Tang in space. But I did not find out, until I saw the movie Hidden Figures a couple of years ago, that a whole bunch of amazing African-American female mathematicians helped NASA “win” the Space Race.
How many women have been forgotten because their stories have never, or only partly, been told?
I have for too long been meaning to write about one woman who deserves far more recognition than she will likely ever receive. Her name was Eloise Butler, and she is the reason Minneapolis is home to the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden and Bird Sanctuary. Tucked into a wooded spot in sprawling Theodore Wirth Park, the 15-acre preserve is the oldest native wildflower garden in the country and includes more than 500 plant species. Walking the trails through prairie, wetlands and woods, it’s hard to believe a place so wild and magical is just three miles from downtown Minneapolis. Butler knew the location was ideal because it would be easy for everyone, especially schoolchildren, to experience and learn about nature. Eight-five years after her death, 60,000 people, many of them children on field trips, visit the garden every season.
Born on a farm in Maine 10 years before the Civil War started, Butler grew up roaming forests and bogs with her sister, Cora. While she dreamed of becoming a botanist, teaching was one of the only jobs open to “studious” girls in those days. So, after moving to Minneapolis, Butler taught high-school botany
Meleah Maynard
for 38 years. At the same time, she passionately pursued her own botanical interests, taking courses at the University of Minnesota and traveling, often with Cora, to Jamaica, Nova Scotia, Colorado, Massachusetts and Vancouver Island to do field work and collect seaweed, algae and other plants.
Women were largely excluded from careers in academia, so though they were observant and highly skilled, Eloise and Cora were considered only amateur botanists. Scrambling over rocks and wading into the sea in their bathing dresses, the sisters gathered plant specimens in their skirts and shipped most of them off to male researchers at universities. In time, the two were credited with identifying new species of algae, three of which were named in Eloise Butler’s honor. Their collections also significantly contributed to the understanding of the natural history of Jamaica.
Knowing how important observation is to the study of botany, in 1907 Butler and a handful of other teachers petitioned the Minneapolis Park Board to designate a spot in Theodore Wirth Park for what they called, the Natural Botanic Garden. Their petition was granted, and within a year the garden was expanded to nearly double its size. Butler was named curator in 1911, and for the next 22 years, she tended, meticulously cataloged and added hundreds of native plants to the garden, many of which she dug up and transplanted herself.
Underfunded by the park board and rebuffed by the University of Minnesota, she sometimes spent her own money to protect the garden’s remarkable collection of plants. Just shy of her 82nd birthday, Butler was excitedly making her way there to do some spring planting when she suffered a fatal heart attack on April 10, 1933. A granite boulder inside the garden’s front gate bears a dedication in her memory. I hope every teacher who brings kids there for a visit stops to tell them who Eloise Butler was.
Meleah Maynard is a Minneapolis-based freelance writer.
Available at Garden Centers and Plant Sales this Spring!
Monarchs • Bees • Butterflies • Hummingbirds
Each pack has 6 different plants perfect for the type of pollinator garden you want.
• For Monarchs: Showy Milkweed, Butterfly Milkweed, Whorled Milkweed, Sullivant’s Milkweed, Common Milkweed and Swamp Milkweed
Want to sell MSHS Pollinator Plant Packs at your garden center or plant sale? Place your order by March 1, 2019 glacialridgegrowers.com
• For Bees: Anise Hyssop, Blue Wild Indigo, Vanilla-scented Clematis, Prairie Smoke, Foxglove Beardtongue and Wild Petunia
• For Butterflies: Pale Purple Coneflower, Wild Lupine, Button Blazingstar, Meadow Blazingstar, Prairie Blazingstar and Orange Coneflower
• For Hummingbirds: Beebalm ‘Panorama Red,’ Cardinal Flower, Blue Lobelia, Heuchera ‘Firefly,’ Giant Purple Hyssop and Wild Columbine
2705 Lincoln Drive Roseville, MN 55113 651-643-3601
Visit www.northerngardener.org/pollinator-plant-packs for plant pack details and plant sale dates.
Apply or donate to the program: northerngardener.org/garden-in-a-box
• Over 4,200 children were served through this program in 2018.
• Almost 6,000 individuals in Minnesota grew food through the program.
• It costs just $15 per child to provide an entire season of gardening education and fresh healthy food for one season.
Thanks to these donors: Cargill Foundation • HealthPartners PowerUp St. Paul Garden Club • Ramsey County SHIP City of Minneapolis Health Department
Gannett Foundation • WEM Foundation
Additional Garden Clubs and Individuals Thanks to these sponsors: Wagners Greenhouses and Garden Center Garden Circles • BFG Supply • CreekSide Soil Sustane Natural Fertilizer • Seed Savers Exchange
