By Northern Express contributors Janice Binkert, Eric Cox, and Ross Boissoneau Please be seated for these abbreviated versions of the restaurant profiles we’ve featured since our last Restaurant Issue. Before you do, one warning: We’d like nothing better than for our readers to support local restaurants like these featured here, but before popping in anywhere, we recommend calling ahead to stay abreast of the latest regarding each eatery’s indoor and outdoor seating availability, reservation requirements, open hours, and menu changes. Hexenbelle Traverse City One of Traverse City’s newest and most innovative restaurant/ cafes, Hexenbelle, launched in November 2020, is the concept of Christian Geoghegan (head chef), Hanna Lane (head baker), and Heather Webber (head of the coffee/espresso program). The passions behind Hexenbelle’s existence are simple: carefully curated, delicious, and conscientiously prepared vegetarian fare, freshly baked pastries, and locally roasted coffee (from Chuck Korson at BLK/ MRKT Roastery, Lane and Webber’s former employer). But its creators are also committed to having the venue be more than just a place to eat and drink. The trio wants Hexenbelle to be dedicated to expanding people’s horizons (culinary and otherwise), tempering prejudices, bringing people together, and supporting worthy causes. It’s a tall order, but one that these three smart, highly principled, compassionate individuals strive to fill every day. And judging from the positive and enthusiastic public response to Hexenbelle ever since it opened, this region has an appetite for both its food and its ethos. On the Menu: Hexenbelle’s menu is all about comfort food from different global perspectives, and Hummus is the single most important item on the menu. Geoghegan’s hummus is served with flatbread, drizzled with Hexenbelle’s very special olive oil — fair trade, organic, Jenin Palestinian Olive Oil — and dusted with house-made za’atar spice mix. Another classic Palestinian comfort food you’ll find: maftoul, a soulwarming dish of couscous with tomatostewed chickpeas, labneh, and cucumber. Breakfast and lunch offerings are relatively static, but for the dinner menu, Geoghegan tries to do a new dish every week. For example, Mapo Tofu, an umamirich Sichuan dish with doubanjiang (a spicy
fermented broad bean sauce) served over rice (inspired by James Beard award-winning chef Danny Bowien, of Mission Chinese in San Francisco, one of Geoghegan’s favorite chefs). Also a Persian dish called Chelo ba Tahdig (Persian saffron and ghee rice), which was served with a Great Northern Bean khoresh (stew) and a side of yogurt and pomegranate seeds. While Geoghegan cooks, baker Lane keeps the bakery case stocked with a rotating array of sweet and savory breads, pastries, cookies, and cakes. Her Guava Bun — babka dough filled with cream cheese, guava jam, and lime zest — is incredible; so, too, was a Peanut Butter Tahini Cookie. “And then we have Heather, who is a barista extraordinaire. Her Witches in Paris coffee creation — with powdered sugar, butter caramel sauce, and cinnamon — is insanely good,” said Geoghegan. “Together we can do this unique thing that’s somehow connected because we’re all on the same page. It’s not three individual people, it’s a unit. We view it like music — three major tones in a chord. All different notes, but they’re combining to produce something harmonious.” Find Hexenbelle at 144 Hall St., Suite 107, in Traverse City’s Warehouse MRKT. For the latest hours and days of service, daily menu offerings, and to order online, visit hexenbelle. square.site. (231) 486-6128 Hoppie’s Landing Pellston Tiny Pellston, situated on U.S. 31 between Mackinaw City and Petoskey, is billed as the “icebox” of Michigan, consistently logging the coldest average temps in the state — yes, Upper Peninsula included. Perhaps that’s why Hoppie’s Landing — a sister to Hoppie’s Tavern, on the northeast side of Burt Lake — feels so warm and cozy inside. The airport itself is lodgestyle, a study in soothing knotty pine. In the terminal’s main lobby, a menagerie of taxidermied local fauna greet those who arrive and depart daily to Detroit Metropolitan Airport via Delta Airlines, as well as private aircraft. Deer, bear, fish, beavers, and more oversee the human traffic hauling luggage to and fro. Ascending a massive white cedar staircase (an elevator is also available), one arrives on the airport’s second floor, where pinewood and comfortable furniture meet massive windows on the terminal’s observation deck, which overlook the runways and the woods beyond. Hoppie’s Landing is also up there,
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sunshine pouring through its gaping glass portals, illuminating this large restaurant, capable of seating nearly 200 when unrestricted. Aside from the wide-angle views, Hoppie’s feels like a super clean sports bar/restaurant with its multiple high-def TVs, old-school shuffleboard game, and Pellston High School sports memorabilia on display. On the Menu: One might expect a limited menu at an eatery inside a small local airport. But Hoppie’s Landing surprises with an array of offerings, including burgers and pizza, grinders, seafood, pasta, planked whitefish and salmon, ribeye steaks, a solid roster of appetizers, and more. Hoppie’s Chips and Salsa ($4.99; $6.49 with nacho cheese ) was our first selection — a satisfyingly salty and crisp basket of red and white corn chips served with a bowl of thick, savory salsa — excellent with a cold beer. For lunch, we opted for the Daily Cod Special ($9.99) paired with an Alaskan Amber Ale, and the Smokehouse Burger ($10.75) with Sweet Potato Fries and a Cheboygan Brewing Co. Blood Orange Honey. The cod came in three large, tennis ballsize chunks that were perfectly deep-fried and accompanied by a small portion of Hoppie’s tartar sauce and a lemon wedge. Cracking one crispy nugget open, a small cloud of steam arose from the flaky white meat within. Golden brown and crunchy on the outside, these hunks of meat were tender and tasty throughout, each one disappearing quicker than the first. Hoppie’s Landing also features mapleplanked whitefish and salmon as well as perch and shrimp offerings. In terms of hamburgers, Hoppie’s Smokehouse Burger did not disappoint. The 1/3-pound patty was cooked precisely how it was ordered, and it fit perfectly on its caramelized bun. Topped with Plath’s bacon, pepper jack cheese, and tangy barbecue sauce, the Smokehouse makes a great lunch or dinner. Hoppie’s Landing has a plethora of refreshments, too, including a modest wine list and some tasty signature cocktails. A must-try: The Ice Box Martini, which plays on Pellston’s reputation as Michigan’s coldest town. Vodka and blue Curacao turn this concoction a cool shade while lemon juice and Sprite add sparks and hint at the coming spring. Another of Hoppie’s interesting cocktails is the Ginger Pomegranate Margarita, which features a belly-warming combination of Tequila, Triple Sec, pomegranate juice, ginger syrup, and lime, served on ice. Find Hoppies Landing inside the Pellston Airport at 1395 North U.S. 31. www. hoppieslanding.com, www.pellstonairport.org.
Mim’s Mediterranean Grill Petoskey Mim’s main location — 1823 U.S. 31-N — is a bit of an oasis for some. Its Greekinspired cuisine and diminutive and colorful house-turnedrestaurant serve as a welcome respite from the region’s delicious but ubiquitous pub fare. Now with an additional food truck location at downtown Petoskey’s popular Back Lot, Mim’s is hitting its stride, offering a diverse menu of solid Mediterraneanstyle offerings, including a roster of tasty gyros, chicken kabobs, a slew of excellent sides, a few seafood items, and a string of salads with eye-popping ingredients. On the Menu: The Mediterranean Plate ($12.25) is a gorgeous small plate of Greek favorites, including falafel, tabbouleh, ricestuffed grape leaves, hummus (garlic or red pepper), and pita bread. Aside from the savory falafel (served with a dollop of sour cream and diced tomatoes), the tabbouleh is extraordinary with its fresh, emerald parsley and white bits of bulgur wheat. The Original Gyro ($7) includes everything that makes this Greek sandwich great: tender, rotisserie-cut gyro meat, creamy tzatziki sauce, strong white onions, and ripe tomatoes. For those meat lover’s tired of the bar-burger routine, this is a solid and filling option — especially when paired with Mim’s Fiery Feta Sauce ($2/4 oz.), in which we dipped our crispy French fries. The Neptune Gyro, with its planks of crispy, deep-fried cod tenders, also buoyed our spirits. The Guinness-battered fish planks nestled tastily between thin slices of American cheese, lettuce, tartar sauces, tomatoes, and onions. Mim’s has both vegetarian and vegan options, including salads, tabbouleh, and more. Additionally, the menu includes a Chicken Kebab Plate ($13), Curry Chicken Shawarma Plate ($12.50) and offerings for kids, like the Chicken Tender Basket ($7.25) and the Grilled Cheese Pita Basket ($6.75). There’s currently no interior dining at Mim’s Mediterranean Grill restaurant. Carryout orders are available at both the U.S. 31 (restaurant) and Back Lot (food truck) location, though diners can sit outdoors and eat at the latter. Carry-out orders may also be made in person at the front door of the U.S. 31 restaurant. www.mimsmediterraneangrill. com, (231) 348-9994
