CONTENTS
50 56
FEATURES 30. RUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE Charlotte Beauvoisin shares some of her Mountain gorilla trekking experiences and key tips for planning a trip to meet these gentle giants. 34. A JOURNEY IN MAASAILAND Tamara Britten takes to the little-known trails through the Loita Hills and finds unexpected comforts along the way. 36. MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON With the weather closing in and visibility nearing zero just a short climb from the highest peak in the Rwenzori Range, Hollie M’gog wonders if she might be out of her depth. 40. TRAILS A SHORT HOP FROM NAIROBI If you haven’t gone as far as planning a weekend away but still want to get out of town for a few hours of hiking, some beautiful trails await, from Ololosokuan Nature Trail to Mt Lesatima. 50. WEEKEND AWAY IN LAKE OLOIDEN Only two hours away from Nairobi, we select our favourite lodges and activities around Lake Naivasha’s smaller sister, Lake Oloiden 64. BIRTHPLACE OF THE BITTER BREW Peter Martell hunts for the home of coffee in South Sudan 66. THE TRUTH ABOUT SNAKES Stephen Spawls talks about why he continues to travel around East Africa in search of snakes, despite having lost an index finger to a puff adder many moons ago. 46. NEW HOTEL Discover Lake Nakuru National Park’s newest boutique luxury lodge, The Cliff.
54
REGULARS 24. POLITICAL REALITIES When Morris Kiruga set off in pursuit of politicians on the campaign trail, he imagined a glamorous few days on the road. The reality couldn’t have been more different. 27. RAIN, GLORIOUS RAIN After the desperation of the dry season, Samantha du Toit marvels at the changes a touch of rain can bring. 54. GREAT HOTELS: ONE FORTY EIGHT Amanda Sperber drops in on this boutique gem tucked in Karen and where the art and decor will make you want to treat the place like your own. 56. BUDGET PICK Think you’ve explored everything Limuru has to offer? We try a modern cottage nestled among Tigoni’s rolling tea farms. 60. RETROSPECTIVE Mo Amin, the late photographer, captures a young Samburu warrior leading his herd along a track near Laisamis. 57. THE LAST WORD A young couple heads off to the Mara on honeymoon but Betty has packed all her flamboyant dresses for the getaway, never mind that this is not quite the setting for it.
NOMAD MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
11
