TURKANA
What happened to the big, fearsome desert? Did we use the wrong route? Were we not scared enough?
fishermen, enjoy perfect sundowners with the stunning landscapes dominated by Mount Nyiru and Kulal. This all serves to create a sensory overload that calms the mind and soul. Our time here comes to an end much too quickly. Why Brian packed not one but two pairs of black jeans for a desert trip remains unanswered. We bid farewell to Loiyangalani with a final stop at an El Molo village. Village visits have never been my thing, but the guides are cool guys and make it slightly less uncomfortable. What really hits home is seeing how Ethiopia’s Gibe series of dams has affected the lake levels. It’s a horrifying glimpse into the future. HEADING TOWARDS THE DESERT We drive away from the lake with the car now hissing and spitting in protest - ignoring the sounds is the only option at this point. After a quick soda at North Horr, we continue on to Kalacha for the night. At an oasis we have an altercation with some herders over the photos we’ve taken but after lengthy negotiation, all is resolved, a good reminder to always ask for permission before taking a photo. On arrival in Kalacha, we waste a good two hours or so looking for a place to sleep only to end up at the first place we had seen, the African Inland Church Mission. There are rumbles of discontent as to the quality of accommodation, but I love it; a bed, water, what else do you need? A cat steals our last pack of sausages and Samir throws down another smashing curry. All is well with the world. The next morning, we visit Kalacha’s Catholic church with its ornate Orthodox
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