Success and intrigue abound in our island paradise of Hawaiâi, where kamaâÄina and malihini (newcomers) find inspiration in the land, the ocean, the people, the creatures, the flora and fauna, the culture, and more.
We are honored to welcome you to the fourth edition of PALM, a publication created exclusively for residents of Park Lane, ONE Ala Moana, Capitol Place, and Hokuaâall developments of The MacNaughton Group and Kobayashi Group, two local companies who came together more than one decade ago to create innovative new projects.
In this edition, we celebrate âohana, and the frequent homecomings that occur during this season. We invite you to explore the lives of filmmakers, novelists, entrepreneurs, lei makers, a renowned island chef, and a discerning interior designerâall of whom remain inspired by these islands and have succeeded in creating a better Hawaiâi for all to enjoy. This issue rounds out with stories on Hawaiian humpback whalesâanimals that return home to Hawaiâi to spawn new youngâ and travel stories on Rapa Nui, known as Easter Island, and Oâahuâs North Shore, places both foreign and familiar.
To the residents of our condominiums, we wish you continued enjoyment in your pursuit of adventure and everlasting intrigue.
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12 LETTER From the Developer
CEO & PUBLISHER
Jason Cutinella
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER & EDITOR
Lisa Yamada-Son lisa@nellamediagroup.com
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Ara Feducia
MANAGING EDITOR
Matthew Dekneef
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Anna Harmon
PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR
John Hook
TRANSLATIONS Japanese Yuzuwords Korean AT Marketing
COPY EDITOR
Andy Beth Miller
ADVERTISING
Mike Wiley Group Publisher mike@nellamediagroup.com
Chelsea Tsuchida Marketing & Advertising Executive
Ethan West Marketing & Advertising Executive
CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER
Joe V. Bock
VP ACCOUNTING
Gary Payne
OPERATIONS ADMINISTRATOR Courtney Miyashiro
PUBLISHED BY:
Nella Media Group
36 N. Hotel St. Ste. A Honolulu, HI 96817
PALM is published exclusively for: The MacNaughton Group & Kobayashi Group © 2017 by Nella Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without the written consent of the publisher. Opinions are solely those of the contributors and are not necessarily endorsed by Nella Media Group.
14
The cover image by photographer Mark Kushimi features models Valerie Ferguson and Travis Smith on a private yachting adventure aboard the Beneteau sailing vessel Vanessa . To explore this nautical side of Hawaiâi, book a tour at pacyacht.com.
16 TABLE OF CONTENTS ARTS 22 An Ode to Her Islands by Kiana Davenport 36 Products of Their Environment: The Kandell Brothers BUSINESS 48 The Best of Times: Honolulu Families Find Balance CULTURE 66 The Language of Lei 82 Routes of Passage of Marine Mammals DINE 94 Be Our Guest: Chef Alan Wong ESCAPES 110 Reflections of Rapa Nui 118 North Shore, Your Way FASHION 132
Vanessa 48 132 ON
Bon Voyage, Aboard the
THE COVER
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PALM A 21
An Ode to Her Islands
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22 A ARTS Kiana Davenport PALM
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In Hawaiâi, native daughter and bestselling author Kiana Davenport finds continual sustenance and inspiration for her fiction.
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In the Odyssey, a poet once wrote, âNothing is as beautiful as a manâs own world, even if it can be held in the palm of his hand.â I feel that way about my islands of Hawaiâi nei. On a world map, they appear miniscule, like morsels stored in a great wet cheek. Yet these islands are my genesis, the place that formed and nourished me and my Polynesian ancestors going back almost 2,000 years.
I am hapa haole, half white. My mother, Emma Kealoha Awaâawa Kanoho Houghtailing, was a fullblooded Hawaiian; my father, Braxton Bragg Davenport, was a U.S. Navy sailor from Alabama.
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24 A ARTS Kiana
Davenport
PALM
âI am hapa haole, half white,â says Kiana Davenport, whose work draws from her Polynesian heritage, the land, and its legends. âMy mother, Emma Kealoha Awaâawa Kanoho Houghtailing, was a full-blooded Hawaiian; my father, Braxton Bragg Davenport, was a U.S. Navy sailor from Alabama.â
They met by accident, fell in love, and against my maternal grandfatherâs wishes, ran off and got married. My father had promised to show my mother the great cities of America, but all she saw were military bases, while he manned guns on battleships during World War II and then the Korean War. Mother died very young. I suspect the long separation from her islands broke her heart. Still a child, I was sent home to Hawaiâi, where I was blessed to be raised by my family in Kalihi. Though I have traveled extensively, Hawaiâi is the only place I have ever called home.
Each time I begin a novel about Hawaiâi, like all keiki o ka âÄina, children of the land, I am blessed with the incredible wealth of our Polynesian heritageâlegends, mysteries, loreâto draw upon. I wrote the first chapter of my first novel about Hawaiâi, Shark Dialogues, at the Manago Hotel in Captain Cook on Hawaiâi Island. Since then, I have begun each of my novels at the Manago. It has become an almost sacred ritual for me. Built in 1917, the hotel is still run by the founderâs grandson Dwight Manago, a gracious man who takes great pride in maintaining this unique landmark of âold Hawaiâi.â
Late at night, I gaze out at the sea and contemplate the 100 years of history that this hotel has been part of, all that has transpired. As I begin each novel, I feel the breath of the past whispering, âWrite with good conscience. Be true. Haâina mai ana ka puana! Let the story be told!â
It has been more than 20 years since Shark Dialogues was published. After publishing seven more novels and three volumes of Pacific stories, I have come back to Shark Dialogues. Through the years, I received hundreds of letters from readers, asking me what happened to the four cousins in the novel. Would I ever write a sequel? I reply that life doesnât give us all the answers. Neither should books.
Still, with our entry into the new millennium, I began to see how global issues were drastically affecting Hawaiâi, and I understand that it is time to bring my characters into the 21st century.
There are moments of great pride among Hawaiians. Recently, we celebrated the homecoming of
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28 A ARTS Kiana Davenport
PALM
Though
she has traveled extensively, Davenport calls Hawaiâi home and spent much of her youth in Kalihi.
HÅkÅ«leâa, our flagship voyaging canoe that had sailed around the entire globe with its crew using only the stars and wave currents to guide them, like our ancient Polynesian ancestors who, almost 2,000 years ago, crossed the Pacific and discovered new islands. It took HÅkÅ«leâa three years to circle the globe, crossing 42,000 nautical miles, stopping in more than 150 different ports, and meeting 23 different nations in their MÄlama Honua Worldwide Voyage, bringing the world aloha from Hawaiâi and promoting a global movement toward a more sustainable world. MÄlama Honua: a journey to save the Earth.
Thus, in my pihana, my conclusion, to Shark Dialogues, I am hoping to portray how, in spite of our tragic past, our century of still unsolved issues, and the threat of the Thirty Meter Telescope on Mauna Kea, there is still great pride in the spirit of Hawaiians, as evidenced by our MÄlama Honua voyage. Like our ancestors, with nothing but faithâmanaâo!âand fire in their hearts, Hawaiians achieved the unthinkable. This is why I write about my islands. My people compel me. Haâina mai ana ka puana! Let their story be told.
Kiana Davenport is the author of the internationally bestselling novels Shark Dialogues, Song of the Exile, House of Many Gods, The Spy Lover, and most recently, The Soul Ajar. She is also the author of the short story
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PALM 30 A ARTS Kiana Davenport
collections House of Skin Prize-Winning Stories; Cannibal Nights, Pacific Stories Volume II; and Opium Dreams, Pacific Stories Volume III. (All three are available as an e-book.) She is currently working on a new novel, Mauna Kea. For more information, visit kianadavenport.com.
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34 A ARTS Kiana Davenport
PALM
Experience the benefits of a California Closets system custom-designed specifically for you and the way you live. Call or visit us online to arrange a complimentary in-home design consultation.
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Products of Their Environment
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Portrait images by AJ Feducia
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Images courtesy of Keith, Aaron, and Jordan Kandell
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36 A ARTS Kandell Brothers PALM
From their island home to Hollywood, the Kandell brothers reflect on the outsized role Hawaiâi has played in their lives and careers.
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In 2016, Keith Kandell made a short film called Homecoming. Produced by H&M, the Swedish fashion retailer, the film follows the rock band The Atomics, made up of 19-year-old model Lucky Blue Smith and his three older sisters (also models), as they return to their hometown of Spanish Fork, Utah. Seductive and unvarnished, the film is about the people and places that shape us, even if we donât appreciate them at the time.
The concept is one Keith has thought about a lot. Swap Spanish Fork for Honolulu, and sisters for his younger twin brothers, Aaron and Jordan, and Homecoming parallels Keithâs own story. All three Kandells left Hawaiâi after high school, Keith for New York University film school, and his younger brothers for Los Angeles to become screenwriters. Keith eventually made a name for himself as a DJ and a film director for companies like Gucci, Prada, and Dior, while
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38 A ARTS Kandell Brothers
PALM
Aaron and Jordan landed a life-changing gig helping write Disneyâs Moana
Then, a few years ago, all three Kandell brothers returned to Hawaiâi, moving back home within 12 months of one another. âAs much as I enjoy being a part of other worlds and other communities, itâs so nice to know in the back of my mind that when that job is done, Iâm returning here,â Keith says. He is dressed casually, in a T-shirt, shorts, and Birkenstocks, all a different shade of navy blue.
Itâs a Friday morning and all three brothers are crammed onto a low-slung modern sofa in the family room of Jordanâs home in MÄnoa. Now in their 30s, with children of their own, the Kandells are the rare siblings who live in the same city, work in roughly the same field, and still get along. In the case of Aaron and Jordan, who, unlike some twins, maintain a similar lookâdark hair pushed back, five oâclock shadowâthey are a screenwriting team, working together on every project, including the forthcoming film Adrift, starring Shailene Woodley, which tells the true story of a womanâs struggle to survive after a hurricane maroons her in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
While Keith is not directly involved in his younger brothersâ projectsâthough theyâve talked about collaboratingâhis brothers keep him in the loop, and occasionally ask him for advice. âI do the same sometimes, too,â Keith says.
âAnd then you ignore our advice,â Aaron quips. Like puppies nipping at an older dog, Aaron and Jordan tease their brother frequently, looking for chinks in his effortless cool. The eldest Kandell takes it in stride, something he learned to do growing up in Hawaiâi. âI canât be an uptight, stressy guy,â he says. âAny of those moments I might have had were systematically beat out of me by surfing, by guys I surfed with.â
The brothersâ banter is also interspersed with popculture referencesâfrom Scarlett Johansson and Afrobeat legend Fela Kuti to Road Rules and Raiders of the Lost Ark all of it a second language they learned from their parents. The brothers grew up in what they call a âWest Coast, Jewish, bohemianâ household. Although their parents left Southern California in the 1970s, they were still products of Los Angelesâ entertainment industry, Keith says, and treated movies and television almost like a religion. âI remember we turned 12 or 13 and for whatever reason that was the demarcation of, âOK great, now we can show them A Clockwork Orange,ââ Aaron says. âThey were so excited that they went out and rented 2001: A Space Odyssey. It was a Kubrick marathon.â
But the brothersâ success, Jordan says, is a direct result of âtrying to move through our industries from a place that represents the values of Hawaiâi and where we
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42 A ARTS Kandell Brothers
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In screenwriting and making motion pictures, Hawaiâiâs values and sense of place keep the brothersâ creative kinship balanced and grounded.
Filmmaker Keith Kandell on set.
Twins Aaron and Jordan Kandell on the set of Adrift
came from, which is being kind, being humble, haâahaâa, being pono.â He says those values led directly to Moana and to subsequent films like Adrift. Humility, Jordan adds, âleads to greater success because itâs an inclusive success. Itâs not just about you.â
âWell, itâs following the compass of your heart,â Aaron says. His brothers groan.
âAaron used to write for Hallmark,â Keith jokes.
There is something slightly mysterious about the brothersâ relationship with the islands, too: âAll of the years that we lived in Los Angeles, we didnât sell anything, we didnât make any money,â Jordan says. It was while they were teaching a summer SAT prep class at Punahou School that the twins sold their first script. In fact, they realized that each time they sold a script they were living in Hawaiâiâeven with Moana, they were back on Oâahu when they got the gig. Keithâs career fell under the same spell. âI remember being in Los Angeles and nothing would be happening,â he says. âI would start to get super antsy, and try to drum something up, to no avail, and it would be like, âAlright, letâs just go home.â And then as soon as Iâd get here, there would be a call.â
Hawaiâi also supplies them with a clarity of purpose.
âIt almost returns me to this sort of innocence,â Keith says. âI can think about what I want to do and what I want to make, which has made my work better, I think.â
Living in Hawaiâi, Jordan adds, âmakes us feel more creative, more grounded, more clear about who we are and what we want to put into the world as storytellers and filmmakers.â âWhen youâre away,â Aaron says, âitâs harder to follow the compass of your heart.â The three brothers erupt in laughter.
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Three Honolulu families find ways to make the most of work and life.
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âHow we spend our days is, of course, how we spend our lives,â mused writer Annie Dillard.
For many people who reside in Hawaiâi, life spent in paradise come with a price: Ranked as one of the nationâs most expensive places to live, where fulltime-employed adults report working 47 hours a week, living has become nearly synonymous with labor.
Enter the idea of work-life balanceâdifficult to describe, subjective in nature, and ever elusive to attainâ championed by well-intentioned research studies and life coaches. A balanced life is a happy life, we sense, yet we remain unable to nail down a foolproof strategy to
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Strong relationships and prioritizing quality time are the foundation to managing the work-life balance, no matter what type of family structure.
attain this. For working families, achieving such balance is especially mystifying. When the pressure to optimize productivity at work is met by the pressure to be wholly present with the family at home, maintaining parity is a delicate dance. Every decision requires an on-spot evaluation: Stay late on the job, or leave early? Keep the client appointment, or go to grandmaâs dinner? How might this choice affect my work short term? How might that choice affect my family in the long term?
Below, three Hawaiâi families offer personal takes on finding such balance. Though different in their approaches, they agree on one thing: There is no clear, one-size-fits-all formula. What they do knowâlearned through trial and error or by intrinsically understanding their motivationsâillustrates that the ideal work-life balance may indeed be a myth. Life is simply life, and in most cases, it figures itself out.
Carol Lockwood
âI feel like I am more efficient when I am busy,â Carol Lockwood says with a laugh. A full-time attorney who specializes in commercial real estate, adoption, and assisted reproductive technology law, Carol is a single mom to her sons Nicholas, 11, and Ethan, 9. She also volunteers as a mediator with the Mediation Center of the Pacific, shuttles her boys to an array of extra-curricular activitiesâtennis and Cub Scouts for Ethan, tap dance and theater for Nicholasâand serves in a variety of positions at Punahou School, including alumni class correspondent and class parent. (Sheâs especially looking forward to helping with Ethanâs class lÅ«âau.) The family has a packed schedule, and if responsibilities from either work or home remain incomplete at the dayâs end, Carol burns the midnight oil.
Her full-throttle lifestyle is complemented by a perennially pragmatic outlook. âI became a mother by choice,â she says. A successful career woman at 37,
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The Hakemolosâ day starts at 6 a.m. and ends 12 hours later, when Sandy finds herself in the kitchen cooking dinner for the family. One of her favorite dishes is shakshuka, a savory Israeli meal featuring sautéed tomatoes and poached eggs. âItâs kind of our cheat meal because we can also eat it for breakfast,â she says.
Soon after waking at 5:45 a.m. Carol Lockwood is on the road to drop her sons off to Punahou. En route, the boys dig into the breakfast bag Carol has packedâmilk, granola, and fruitâand the trio settles into some quality, if not unconventional family time in the car. âWeâd rather get to school early and hang out in the car and talk for a little bit before school starts,â she says.
After Matty Hazelgrove picks up his son, Makana, from school at 4:30 p.m., he places his phone on silent to prevent the distraction of texts, emails, and voicemails from streaming in. ââWhen Iâm at work, I try to really focus hard on work,â he says. âBut when Iâm with my family, I want to be present, not just physically but mentally.â
Carol came to the realization that she didnât have the luxury of waiting for Mr. Right: If she wanted to have children, she would need to do it herself. So she turned to donor insemination. âI always wanted kids,â she says. She remembers bringing Nicholas at 6 weeks old to meet her 94-year-old grandfather. Nervous of how he might receive Nicholas given her unmarried status and unconventional path to motherhood, her heart swelled at his unexpected, heartfelt approval. âYou were always baby crazy,â he had remarked. âI guess it makes more sense for you to have a child without a husband than a husband without a child.â Though she admits that having a partner would make her days easier, Carol sees her sons as sweet antidotes to lifeâs challenges.
Sandy and Moshe Hakemolo
The adage âProper planning prevents poor performanceâ is a principle that is agreeable and applicable to Sandy and Moshe Hakemolo. Sandy, who honed her business acumen growing up as a âshop babyâ at her parentsâ jewelry store in Chinatown, now helms the family business. Her husband, Moshe, who is originally from Israel, entered the diamond trade in his 20s. Since then, he founded Diamond Guy Hawaii and Hawaii Estate and Jewelry Buyers, thriving businesses that specialize in custom-designed pieces and estate-jewelry acquisition. Together, Sandy and Moshe are a force to behold in the jewelry industry, forging paths to success through strong work ethics, consistent goal-setting and, in Sandyâs case, enviable organizational skills.
Once their daughter, Zoar, was born in 2016, however, the duo found managing both professional and family responsibilities to be daunting, if not impossible. Developing schedules became key. âSandy is a planner,â says Moshe, who takes pride in how efficiently his wife stays ahead of the game. On Sandyâs phone is a compendium of frequently updated to-do lists: work lists, grocery lists, Zoarâs birthday party list, a travel list for an upcoming family trip to Israel. Knowing how to prepare for what is on the horizonâwhether it is a business goal or the babyâs doctorâs appointmentâhelps Moshe and Sandy keep lifeâs stresses at bay.
Matty and Kayce Kazelgrove
As co-founder of BAMP, a concert and event-promotions company, Matty Hazelgroveâs work hours routinely extend beyond the conventional 9-to-5 shift. Matty and his team have featured a wide spectrum of musical talent,
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ranging from legacy artists such as Tony Bennett and Smokey Robinson to indie group Toro y Moi and multiinstrumentalist Andrew Bird. The shows are often held at The Republik, a concert venue which Matty acquired in 2012. With nearly 100 shows slated per year, finding ways to balance career and family life is a challenge, he confesses. When at home with his wife, Kayce, and 3-year-old son, Makana, Matty makes a conscientious effort to place his phone on silent to avoid the distracting stream of texts, emails, and voicemails.
But lately, Matty has discovered that separating work and family is not nearly as gratifying as merging them. He relishes golden opportunities when the two dovetail. Not long ago, he brought Makana along on a run to the music store for drum supplies. âI thought, âMakana loves the music store, and then Iâll just take him back to the Republik, where he can bang on the drum set for awhile,ââ Matty recalls. âHe loved it.â As the son of two music fans (Matty and Kayce bonded over a shared love of Jimmy Eat World when they first met seven years ago), Makana is, unsurprisingly, becoming an avid music fan. Recently, when rock band Mae was in town, Matty, Kayce, and Makana attended the pre-concert meet and greet together, making it a family affair.
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âO ka makua ke koâo o ka hale.
The parent is the support that holds the household together.
âOlelo Noâeau: Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings by Mary Kawena Pukui
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place that
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65
The Language of Lei
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Lei by Cindyâs Lei Shoppe
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Niâihau shell lei provided by Hawaii Estate and Jewelry Buyers
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66 C CULTURE Lei PALM
Ever-present and unmistakably vibrant, the lei of Hawaiâi nei represent the fabric of local life in the islands.
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In traditional Hawaiian society, lei were offered to powerful akua, or gods, and used to show respect to aliâi, the chiefs. They were also, in a practice that continues to survive today, gifted to honor loved ones and to mark special celebrations. Alongside native plants, a bounty of introduced species have been adopted by lei makers and incorporated into the traditional practice of stringing or weaving flowers into adornments. Beyond the sometimes simple, oftentimes intricate designs of leaves and petals, the underlying beauty of lei is how theyâre entwined into nearly every stage of contemporary living: first birthday lÅ«âau, college graduations, weddings, promotions, retirements, funerals, arrivals in and departures from Hawaiâi. Continue forward on your path, and lei will surely follow, expressing and enhancing emotions we canât always say in words. Let the lei speak then.
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68 C CULTURE Lei PALM
Carnation Merry and bold, this symbol of exultant adoration canât be missed when the occasionâs honoree is bedecked in it.
Joyous events like university graduations call for the very full double carnation lei. A fashionable favorite found on prominent Hawaiian musicians and local politicians, this vintage classic, which takes about 100 blossoms to finish, seems to make a comeback every few decades.
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Maile
One of the oldest and most prized lei used by early Hawaiians in the islands, the leathery foliage of this endemic plant, often seen as a twining vine, is traditionally preferred by men. Although legends recount women adorned in maile, in precontact Hawaiâi, men wore maile almost daily. Sacred to Laka, the goddess of hula, the maile lei has also been noted to be a peace offering on the battlefield. Today, weddings customarily call for grooms to be gifted with the fragrant, open-ended strands.
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Hala
A lowland native tree with numerous uses in Hawaiian culture, hala bears spherical fruit with colored segments that are valued material for lei. The plantâs name means âfault, error, to pass by or away,â which makes hala an appropriate funeral lei. However, it also represents good luck when worn during the makahiki season or the Hawaiian new year. This tradition of offering good fortune continues at business and sporting events, as when, for instance, the coach of an outrigger canoe crew or a colleague celebrating the anniversary of a new venture is adorned with a hala lei.
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Lokelani and Pīkake
A fragile and exquisite lei, strands of lokelani and pÄ«kake are a lovely choice for a female guest of honor. PÄ«kake, an Arabian jasmine from India believed to have been introduced to Hawaiâi by the Chinese, serves as an accent to the roses displayed here, but is elegant all on its own. The pÄ«kake was favored by Princess Kaâiulani, who nicknamed the blooms after one of her most prized possessions: peacocks that wandered her personal gardens.
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Pua KÄ«kÄ
This handsome affair is a popular choice today for Fatherâs Day, a birthday, or any event that celebrates a male figure. Since the tiny flowers are only about threefourths of an inch, nearly 2,000 are needed to construct a hefty strand. Ultimately, the multi-colored and skillful assemblage resembles a lit cigar, hence its colloquial name, âcigar lei.â (The Hawaiian word for cigar, kÄ«kÄ, is a borrowed version of the English word.) But donât let the name fool you: This lei is odorless.
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PÅ«pÅ« o Niâihau
The only lei that can be insured like diamonds, these shell lei are the most luxurious garlands in the Hawaiian Islands and can sell for anywhere from $15,000 to $30,000. Sourced from Niâihauâs unspoiled shores, the shells are highly sought after for their illustrious shine and precise grade. Within the exclusive community of artisans who craft these pieces, a unifying set of terms exists to distinguish what types of shells are used: kahelelani, momi, laiki, and kÄmoa, followed by qualifying descriptors like color or pattern. The most rare is the kahelelani shell in hot pink or black; outfitted together, they make a lei with a dazzling contrast of color unlike anything in the world.
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Routes of Passage
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82 C CULTURE Marine Animals PALM
Humans arenât the only animals drawn to Hawaiian shores. Numerous marine animals migrate here yearly to create new lives.
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On June 29, WaikÄ«kÄ« hosted the first Hawaiian monk seal birth recorded in the stateâs top tourist district since scientists began monitoring the critically endangered species in the 1970s. In the 43 days that followed, thousands of people shared one of Hawaiâiâs most congested beaches with a whiskered, round-eyed pup named Kaimana and her mother, Rocky.
By way of a live video stream, thousands more joined online. The broadcast captivated animal lovers worldwide with all the melodrama of a Netflix series. When, in Kaimanaâs very first days of life, a wayward beach ball rolled a little too close to Kaimana for Rockyâs liking, the mother barked defensively and deflated it with her teeth.
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84 C CULTURE Marine Animals
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As adults, whales, humpbacks, and turtles will return to the places they were birthed to rear and nurse their young.
On day nine, the camera caught Kaimana basking in the shade of an umbrella while tossing around a beachgoerâs pink slipper. The seal was learning how to play, and it was an adorable sight. Finally, by day 43, Kaimana had quadrupled in size, and had been weaned off her motherâs milk. Rocky took leave of her pup, and returned to her solitary life at sea. Using a large net, scientists scooped up a young Kaimana and transported her to a remote Oâahu beach where, far from the crowds of WaikÄ«kÄ«, she faces comparatively little risk of interference from surfboards, swimmers, catamarans, and canoes as she begins the next stage of her life.
Hawaiian monk seal births are rarely ever seen, not to mention captured on video and broadcast online. The summerâs very public pupping event in Oâahuâs congested tourism center was an anomaly. But it is something researchers say is likely to occur more frequently as scientists find success with their recovery plan to save the imperiled species.
Hunted to near-extinction for their oil and meat by the late 1800s, Hawaiian monk seals number about 1,400 in the wild today. Although the seal was rarely seen on the main Hawaiian Islands through the mid-1980s, there are now about 300 found here today. Scientists say life for a monk seal is a lot harder in the remote Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, where predators like sharks are more prevalent, the risk of entanglement in marine debris is higher, and climate change threatens to submerge the coral reef atolls where the animals breed. As such, the animalâs population distribution is shifting.
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86 C CULTURE Marine Animals PALM
from her perspective as a member of the Pacific Island Fisheries Science Centerâs Hawaiian Monk Seal Research Program. âWhat we did not know was that this little seal would have an impact on the entire world and become an ambassador for her species.â
Hawaiian monk seals arenât the only notable sea creature of which there has been a resurgence in nearshore waters. Although 90 percent of Hawaiâiâs green sea turtles breed in the French Frigate Shoals, scientists have observed a growing number of these honu nesting on beaches in Hawaiâiâs main islands.
These seals and honu have another trait in common: They imprint on the beach where they were born. Although they may roam thousands of miles, these fragile species always know how to find their ways back home.
Geography is important to many of Hawaiâiâs best-known ocean creatures. More than 10,000 humpback whales visit Hawaiian waters each year from November to May. Journeying from as far as Alaska, they come to the islands to mate and raise calves that stay within a bodyâs length of their mothers until the nursing period is over and itâs time to begin the 3,000-mile swim back to colder waters.
Humpback whales migrate with mysterious, arrow-straight accuracy. Scientists are baffled by how the giants of the sea are able to navigate so expertly. But there is a leading theory: Like the Polynesian voyagers who traveled great distances to discover and populate Hawaiâi, humpback whales track the positioning of the sun, moon, and stars to find their way across the sea.
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90 C CULTURE Marine Animals PALM
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94 D DINE Chef Alan Wong PALM
Whether cooking for an intimate group at Park Lane or helming his acclaimed namesake restaurant, chef Alan Wong uses a recipe for success that is surprisingly simple.
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If you were to invite chef Alan Wong to a party, he would probably bring chicken soup. âOr hamburger gravy,â he says with a chuckle. âMy momâs go-to was hamburger. If she had milk, she would put milk. If she never had milk, she put water and cornstarch, serve with rice, and that was breakfast. When I go to a potluck, I want to bring something decent, but I want to be low key.â
It might be surprising that Wong might offer up something so simple. After all, he is one of Hawaiâiâs most eminent chefs and a pioneer of Hawaiâi Regional Cuisine, the movement that began putting the islandâs bounty on fine-dining plates. But for Wong, whose palate was shaped by his motherâs home-cooked meals, simplicity is what he knows best.
Shortly after he was born in Japan, Wong and his family moved to Hawaiâi, where, when he was 7 years old, his parents split. To support him and his sister, Wongâs mom found work cooking in Japanese restaurants, where, as he puts it, she received her training.
âOh, my favorite foods growing up would be stuff like chawanmushi, miso soup, gyoza, kinpira gobo, okaraâsimple stuff, like delicatessen food,â Wong says. âBetween my momâs Japanese cooking and my grandfatherâs Chinese cooking, thatâs where I developed the degree of salt and seasoning I put into my
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DINE Chef Alan Wong 96 D
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Even for an acclaimed chef, simplicity proves to fare best for entertaining at home.
Chef Wong says that adding unexpected ingredients to an event menu can help the common cook elevate dishes.
food. I think everybodyâs the same. Whatever you were raised on, you cook at the same salt level.â
While he has fond food memories, Wong got into the industry as more of a business proposition. At 15, the precocious youngster realized he could make $1.60 an hour working in the plantation fields, or $2 an hour washing dishes in a hotel. He chose the latter, and worked his way from dishwasher to busboy to host to waiter to, at only 19 years old, restaurant manager. As a way to become a better manager and learn more about what happens in the kitchen, he enrolled in the culinary program at Kapiâolani Community College.
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98 D DINE Chef Alan Wong PALM
Alan Wong, chef and restaurateur. Heâs one of the founders of Hawaiâi Regional Cuisine, a style of Hawaiian fusion cooking developed in the mid-â90s.
âIn my first class, I was baking bread and making salad dressing from scratch,â Wong recalls. âThis was a big awakening for me. I actually thought bread came out of a package and salad dressing came out of a bottle.â After graduating, Wong apprenticed at The Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia, and worked at LutÚce in New York City, where the seeds were planted for Wong to open his own restaurant back in Hawaiâi.
Today, the chef is still hungry for knowledge. In his office, beneath his namesake restaurant on King Street, he has binders filled with research for future recipe development. In one, labeled âhealthy research,â Wong has an alphabetized catalogue of the healing properties of all sorts of ingredients. Thereâs amaranth, which aids in digestion and reduces inflammation; Filipino kalamungay leaves, called moringa when ground into a powder, touted by researchers as the next superfood; and bitter melon, which Wong eats raw for breakfast with shoyu and oatmeal. According to traditional Chinese medicine, Wong says, this type of meal is considered
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100 D DINE Chef Alan Wong PALM
Yum!
yin, and the body needs a balance of foods both yin and yang to maintain optimum health.
Tucked in among these more exotic ingredients are foods that are commonplace, though no less surprising. Wong displays a Ziploc bag full of discarded onion skin, which most people would toss in the trash. âOnion skin has more antioxidants than the onion itself, so itâs good for [preventing] colon cancer, obesity, type-2 diabetes, gastrointestinal problems, cardiovascular disease, and itâs so simple,â he says. In his restaurant, Wong eliminates the need for cream in a brown steak sauce by using a reduction of onion skin-steeped water as a base. âIâm constantly battling to improve my health,â he says. âIâm a professional eater. I have to do that. Otherwise Iâd be goners.â
Utilizing ingredients like these can help the common cook elevate dishes. âLocal people, especially all the aunties, they always try to find out whatâs in the dish, to find the best recipe,â Wong says. âSo when you do unusual things, you can make an event a little bit more interesting. Then again, thereâs nothing wrong with plain-old, simple, local-style poke either.â
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104 D DINE Chef Alan Wong PALM
Wong offers this tip for hosting a great gathering:
âIf youâre going to entertain, you want to maximize your fun as the host, because your guests come to see you.â
He recommends choosing a menu that you can prepare 50 to 75 percent of ahead of time. That way, when guests arrive, âYeah you have to do your thing, but then you also have time to enjoy it.â
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Travel
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109
Reflections on Rapa Nui
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Text and images by Austin Kino
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Portrait image courtesy of Polynesian Voyaging Society
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110 E ESCAPES Rapa Nui PALM
Moai, monolithic humans carved by the native people more than 500 years ago, attract visitors to Rapa Nui from around the world.
At the southeastern-most point of the Polynesian Triangle, a traveler encounters incredible monuments and a shared Oceanic heritage.
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Based on a journal entry from March 4, 2017
As I sit in my starboard bunk and glance across the deck of HÅkÅ«leâa, I come eye to eye with two new faces of our crew. Their names are Hinariru and Mahorangi, and they are miniature moai, monolithic human statues made of rock, which were recently carved as gifts for the Hawaiian Islands.
They found their way aboard our waâa, our voyaging canoe, before we departed from Rapa Nui toward the island of Pitcairn, en route to Hawaiâiâthe culimation of a three-year journey circumnavigating the globe using only traditional Polynesian wayfinding techniques, a system that relies on celestial cues to sail the open sea. A couple days prior, I had flown with other crewmembers into Rapa Nui (also known as Easter Island) to relieve the MÄlama Honua Worldwide Voyage crew that had sailed HÅkÅ«leâa from the Galápagos Islands. To remain
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112 E ESCAPES Rapa Nui
PALM
true to the Polynesian Voyaging Societyâs mission of training the next generation of captains and navigators, the organization assigned a team of apprentice navigators, including me, to help complete the voyageâs final leg, from Rapa Nui to Hawaiâi. Combining years of tutelage and ocean experiences, this team of next-generation wayfinders was tasked with working together to navigate HÅkÅ«leâa to our home archipelago, the most remote inhabited islands in the Pacific.
It is said that most of Rapa Nuiâs moaiâmagnificent minimalist figures that average 13 feet tall and 5 feet wide at their basesâoriginated from the Rano Raraku quarry. After our arrival, we were taken here by a tour guide, Hangarau Ote Ariki, who shared with the crew that even he still wonders how his kÅ«puna, his ancestors, had managed to transport such masterpieces from the quarry to every corner of the island. Above us on the volcanic mountainside stood even larger creations: 30-feettall moai carved into the hillside. Looking up at such enigmatic figures, deified ancestors of the Rapa Nui people, I could only stare in wonder.
Archaeologists believe that between the 15th and 17th centuries, the nine tribes of Rapa Nui commissioned a total of 723 moai. Hangarau explained that it was the occupation of one tribe to construct the moai in exchange for food and supplies. At some point, one story goes, the island exhausted its resources in an effort to pay for all of the moai construction. On average, it took 30 laborers one and a half years to carve a single moai; more than six months were dedicated to the face alone.
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114 E ESCAPES Rapa Nui
PALM
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Aboard the HÅkÅ«lea , the moai is a treasured gift to Hawaiâi.
On our final night in Rapa Nui, we were invited to witness a local dance performance known as kari kari, which I noticed had traits similar to neighboring Polynesian styles. Soon, a few crewmembers were selected to come onstage for the always entertaining rendition of the tamure, a dance in which the men bend their knees low and move them together and apart, keeping up with the driving beat of the fast Tahitian-like drums, while trying to mirror the hand motions of the female dancer.
After the final number was done, our crew was asked to come onstage to be given a carvedstone moai to take back to Hawaiâi. We were told it was to be a reminder that the people of Rapa Nui are always wishing protection over their cousins in the Hawaiian Islands.
As ocean people, we understand that we are not separated by oceans, but instead are connected by them. This was evident in the final moments before HÅkÅ«leâaâs departure, when a handful of our hosting friends stayed onboard to help prepare food and ready HÅkÅ«leâa for her voyage. When I look at the carvings outside my bunk, I see the moai as reminders of the timelessness of our commitments to preserve our cultural treasures, and the truth of the words spoken to us by the people of Rapa Nui: We are all the living faces of our ancestors.
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116 E ESCAPES Rapa Nui
PALM
North Shore, Your Way
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118 E ESCAPES North Shore PALM
The possibilities are endless along this paradisiacal stretch of Oâahu, where the waves inspire and the sunsets are always epic.
More than 30 miles from the busy streets of Honolulu is the stunning, raw coastline of Oâahuâs North Shore. While this coastal area is set to a perpetual soundtrack of thunderous surf in the wintertime, thereâs plenty to do, see, eat, and partake in here that doesnât require a surfboard. From horseback riding to skydiving, shark diving to strolls on vacant shoresâthe North Shore has an adventure for everyone. Itâs up to you which one to choose.
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Waialua to Kaâena Point Fleetwood Mac said it best: You can go your own way. And you can on the North Shore, but hopefully youâve headed there early. Not long after Schofield Barracks, where Kamehameha Highway forks, there is a sign pointing you toward âNorth Shore.â You can follow that signâ or you can go your own way along Kaukonahua Road, better known as âSnake Road,â toward Waialua, where youâll want to stop at Paâalaâa Kai Bakery for the signature snow puffy pastries.
Next, hit the beach. Though Waialua is a quiet, red dirt-streaked plantation town, a little west of its high school is the splendor of MokulÄâia, a beachfront community hugging Crozier Drive. Find a public access path (marked by a blue sign), walk down the sandy shore parallel to Crozier, and let the cool Pacific Ocean lick at your toes.
If youâre looking for something a little more adventurous, hop
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žì€ìŒìŽê° ìë€. ì¹ë§ë¶í° ì€ì¹ŽìŽë€ìŽë¹, ììŽ ë€ìŽë¹, íê°í ë°ë·ê°ìì ì°ì±
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žì€ìŒìŽìë 몚ë ì¬ëë€ìŽ ìŠêžž ì ìë ë€ìí 몚íìŽ ê°ëí ê³³ìŽë€. 120 E ESCAPES North Shore
on a horse with the Hawaii Polo Club or Happy Trails and ride along routes that snake through the gorgeous Waiâanae Mountain Range. Or keep driving west to where Farrington Highway ends, park, and walk the few miles to Kaâena Point. Raw and serene, this tip of the island is where the west and the north shores kiss. It is also a leina a ka âuhane, or a leaping place, where, according to Hawaiian lore, souls of the dead jumped into the afterlife. Around the point, be on the lookout for brilliant wildlife such as the Pterodactyl-like Laysan albatross and nesting Hawaiian monk seal pups (and keep a respectable distance, of course).
Haleâiwa
If Waialua is a little too remote for you, head to the town of Haleâiwa. Start with a cup of joe at Coffee Gallery, get breakfast at Café Haleiwa or Waialua Bakery, or order an açai bowl at Crispy Grindz Pastelaria, a Brazilian-owned food truck whose açai is a deep, unadulterated purple. While youâre near Aliâi Beach Park, you may want to try something new and book a shark tourâsans cage!âwith One Ocean Diving at Haleâiwa Harbor. For this truly unforgettable experience, Juan Oliphant or Ocean Ramsey (Google her TED talk) takes you two miles offshore, educates you about these apex predators, and then hops in the water with you to swim with Galapagos and reef sharks, along with the occasional hammerhead. Back in town, stop at Number 808, a design-forward yet casual boutique carefully curated by North Shore local Cappy Esguerra, who mixes local surf lifestyle brands like Quality Peoples and Mikoh with harder to find mainland brands like Saturdays and Uzi NYC. Afterward, take a quick look at the line at Matsumoto Shave Ice. If itâs snaking out the door, Aloha General Store is your less-crowded shave ice backup plan.
At mealtime, head to Red Barn Farmstand for healthier fare, or make your way to Kua âAina for a burger that sticks to the ribs. Back on Haleâiwaâs main strip is Opal Thai, where the owner sizes you up and tells you what to order. If you donât mind being at his mercy, then youâll be deliciously stunned.
Waimea Bay to Kahuku
If you are determined to head to North Shore proper, or what local surfers refer to as âUpsideâ (north of Waimea Bay), then drive nearly as far north as you can on Kamehameha Highway, toward Sunset Beach, and
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124 E ESCAPES North Shore PALM
Although OâÄhuâs North Shore is known for its world-class surfing, the charming towns of Haleâiwa and Waialua offer an array of local delights.
decide between two equally appealing options. Grab an energy-boosting bulletproof coffee, the craze that blends hot coffee with butter and Brain Octane Oil and sends the body into ketosis, at the cozy roadside Sunrise Shack. Or get breakfast sandwiches at Tedâs Bakery, a true North Shore institution. Thereâs no wrong answer.
For a beach with nary a soul in sight, check out the vast and golden Ke Iki Beach, located directly across from Sunset Beach Christian School, but be wary of the shorebreak, as it can be giant and treacherous with a large winter swell. Hear a voice booming over a loudspeaker? Look to your right. If you timed it just so, in December, you can walk up the shoreline to âEhukai Beach Park to catch the last and most prestigious jewel in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the Billabong Pipe Masters. Here, youâll have a ringside seat to the greatest surfing show on Earth. No other wave in the world breaks so perfectly, so big, and so close to the beach as those at Pipeline do.
Continuing north on Kamehameha Highway, stop in at Royâs Beach House at Turtle Bay for a mai tai at its outdoor beach bar. Then, head back to Sunset Beach to watch the ocean reflect the final rays of the sun as it dips behind MokulÄâia, while surfers catch their last waves, and the North Shore quietly dims.
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128 E ESCAPES North Shore
PALM
Unveiling
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the world's
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infinite beauty.
PALM F 131 131
Bon Voyage
Photographed on board the Vanessa
Styled by Ara Feducia
Hair and makeup by Bailee Nakaahiki, Holly Tomita, Stephanie Forsyth, & Jonah Dela Cruz, HMB Studios
Modeled by Valerie Ferguson & Travis Smith
132 F FASHION The Vanessa PALM
Lacausa dress, Echo & Atlas; Oscar de la Renta earrings, Neiman Marcus;
Images by Mark Kushimi
On her: Rag & Bone hat, T by Alexander Wang crop top, and Derek Lam 10 Crosby pants, all from Neiman Marcus. On him: stylistâs own.
On her: Burberry trench dress, Neiman Marcus. On him: stylistâs own.
Explore the other side of Hawaiâi with a private yachting adventure aboard the Beneteau sailing vessel Vanessa . For more information, or to book a tour, visit pacyacht.com.
Tory Burch linen top and Frame jeans, both from Neiman Marcus.
On her: Eugenia Kim sun hat, Neiman Marcus; swimsuit, S. Tory Standards; Lacausa beach dress, Echo & Atlas. On him: stylistâs own.
On her: Tory Burch Vanessa long sleeve dress, Neiman Marcus.
On him: VAST shirt, In4mation.
Ala Moana Center 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. Echo & Atlas 1 N. Hotel St. @echoandatlas
Neiman Marcus
On him: VAST shirt and boardshorts, In4mation.
Welcome to Hale Moana
Grounded in a connection to Hawaii, it's a place for life, laughter and relaxation: a solace from the busy world, a place to entertain, and the best vantage point for taking in breathtaking ocean views.
Your journey starts and ends here.
A Revelation
âWe want the owner to step inside the home gradually and watch as the space unfolds. Push the button and watch the shades rise. The lights come up, and the view is revealed. Then, you exhale.â
David Oldroyd, Principal Designer
Now, That's Entertainment
The kitchen and main living area flow together, creating a sense of sophistication and tranquility.
Prime for entertaining guests or a quiet meal at home, this residence features a chefâs kitchen with Brazilian granite countertops and custom white oak wood cabinetry. And because the perfect dish deserves an equally perfect vintage, a wine room lies just beyond the kitchen.
Beauty, Elevated
Text by Lisa Yamada-Son æ = ãªãµã»ã€ãã
Images courtesy of ODADA & Park Lane
= ãªããïŒããŒã¯ã¬ãŒã³
154 MK Pages David Oldroyd PALM
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David Oldroyd sees splendor in the natural world, and seamlessly blends it with indoor settings only steps away.
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David Oldroyd still often recalls his first trip to Hawaiâi nearly two decades ago. A principal of Orlando Diaz-Azcuy Design Associates, the interior design firm later charged with elevating the interior spaces of Park Lane Ala Moana, he had been invited to the private Kahala home of developer Duncan MacNaughton to discuss possible residential work there. âI was so nervous as I walked through this stone portico into his ancestral home,â says Oldroyd from his office in San Francisco, his voice still carrying a note of excitement. âThe world drops away in front of you, and you see beaches in the distance, thereâs a gentle breeze, and the birds, and the flowersâIâve never forgotten that moment.â
Despite the view from the MacNaughton home, what struck Oldroyd most was the lÄnai, where giant foldaway doors slid into themselves, opening the outdoor balcony onto the living room. âWe sat out there and had dinner, and thereâs this seamless indooroutdoor living experience with breezes blowing through the house that I had never really experienced.â
Sixteen years later, it was this feeling that Duncan MacNaughton asked Oldroyd to bring to Park Lane Ala Moana. Oldroyd had worked on interior architecture and design for many highend homes throughout Oâahu, but it was an unprecedented task to imbue a large commercial residence with the warmth of a single-family home. Oldroyd agreed to the challenge. âI had a long history with Duncan and his family, so I knew that anything they were involved in was going to be a quality product,â he says.
Oldroyd and his team were happy to be brought in on the project early. âWe believe the best result is when the interiors and architecture develop together, are in sync, and speak to one
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156 MK Pages David Oldroyd PALM
Orlando Diaz-Azcuy ëììž ëíìž
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ëŠ¬ìŽ ëììž íì¬ë ìëŒëªšìë íí¬ ë ìž ëŽë¶ë¥Œ íìžµ ë ëì ê³µê°ìŒë¡ ë§ëë €ê³ íë€. ìì°ìì ê°ëì ì»ê³ , ë°ë¡ ëª ê±žì ë¿ë ê³³ìŒë¡
ë€ìŽê°ë ê·ž ë¶ìêž°ê° ê·žëë¡ ìŽìŽì§ëë¡.
Interiors artfully combine comfort with style.
Spaces are enhanced by natural light throughout Park Laneâs residencies.
The high-rise vistas of Park Lane offer clear views to the Pacific.
another,â he says. âWe do as much interior architecture as we do decoration ⊠because architecture is so much about space. Space is all about volume and shape and light and progression, and Iâve learned that you canât design your way out of a bad box.â
In evaluating the design of Park Lane, Oldroyd and his team worked to ensure that the kinds of amenities provided in the residencesâthe sizes of the spaces, the relationship between themâaligned with their experience in high-end residential work in Hawaiâi, San Francisco, and Manhattan. The focal points of each residence, Oldroyd emphasized, should be the clear view of the balmy sky and rolling Pacific, the lÄnai, and the connection to the outside.
Fittingly, one of his most spectacular, yet subtle, treatments is the merging of the living space and the lÄnai, the latter of which features a slope for drainage hidden beneath floating stone pavers. This feature allows for the lÄnaiâs surface to be completely flat and flush with the sliding track door and wood floors inside, rather than interrupted by a door sill. âThe transition from inside to outside is so expensive that nobody ever focuses on them,â Oldroyd says. But he and his team spared no detail or cost for the Park Lane residences. Because of this, âYou donât even feel [the transition] as you walk by on your bare feet as you go from inside to outside.â
By design, the spaces at Park Lane celebrate Hawaiâiâs greatest aspect: the natural world. âOne of my greatest pleasures that I have in my current career is to be able to get to go to Hawaiâi once a month,â Oldroyd says. âI hope that people in Hawaiâi are aware of the richness of the natural environment that is everywhere in Hawaiâi. Every
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By living in spaces where indoor and outdoor areas merge, residents remain connected to the natural world.
158 MK Pages David Oldroyd PALM
sunrise, every sunset, every rainstorm, every cloud, every blue sky, the sand, the trees, the smellâwhat a joy it is to be there.â
Below, Oldroyd discusses how design can elevate the beauty of a space.
What is it about design that continues to captivate you?
I do believe that weâre kinder to each other, weâre better world citizens, if we care about our surroundings and have beautiful things around us. I grew up with meager means in a small town in Southern Utah, but my mother was always very resourceful, and she always cared about design and style. She would set the table even if she was preparing breakfast for just one of her kids. There was a mat and fabric napkin. There was never a bottle of jelly or milk jug on the tableâit was always in a pitcher that was one of her grandmothersâ or something. So she started us out thinking that no matter who you are and what you have, you can care about your environment. And it makes your life experience so much richer if you include beautiful things in it, things that have meaning to you, or new things that you find curious. I love being able to help people draw out of their own belongings beauty that they didnât even notice before.
How can people make their spaces beautiful? Itâs really important to believe that good design does not have to be expensive. It can be, but it doesnât have to be. You can find beauty and luxury in expensive and inexpensive objects, and I think itâs really important to
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train your eye to see both. I try to put quality in things that you sit in and touch. And if there are things that you only look at, find things that are beautiful in their line, color, or texture. Then find one or two moments, or objects, that can hold a room. And then let everything else be quiet.
What two objects hold your home together?
The only piece of furniture I owned when I bought my house was a piano. Iâve played since I was 5, and itâs one of my great gifts to myself to be able to play for my own enjoyment. I designed a room in my home around the location where I wanted to sit. Also, early on, before I had any furniture, I stumbled upon this piece of art by Andrew Kudless. Itâs like a typographical map thatâs all done in white plaster and covers an entire wall. It reminded me of the coastal hills of California, and also of the way your mind sees musicâit forms these sort of amorphic shapes, at least my crazy mind does. There was balmy weather [in San Francisco] last night, and staring in at the changing light outside as it reflected on those white undulating forms, after a decade, weâre still like, âWow, thatâs a beautiful thing.â
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160 MK Pages David Oldroyd PALM