Futures and Innovation - Gymshark

NISHTHA YADAGIRI 18024464 UNIT 1 FUTURES AND INNOVATIONS YEAR 3 LOUISE STUART TRAINOR

HEALTH AND WELLNESS

CON TE NTS

PART ONE: MACRO TREND RESEARCH Executive Summary

4

Macro Trend Introduction

6

Consumer Trend Canvas

8 - 10

Trend Drivers

11,12

Trend Timeline

13,14

Consumer Analysis

15,16

Opportunities in the Industry

17,18

Cultural Triangulation Model

19,20

Trend Atlas

21

CON TE NTS

PART TWO: BRAND CHOICE AND JUSTIFICATION Brand Choice and Justification

23

Primary Research

24,25

Application Target Consumer

26,27

Innovation Research

Innovation Audit + Risk Audit

28,29

Innovation Sweet Spot

30

Campaign

32 - 34

Mock ups

35

Reference List

36 - 41

Bibliography

42

Appendix

43 - 51

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The health and wellness trend for centuries has been adopted by the consumers of many industries, not just fashion. However, in the recent time fashion refuses to stay defined in the lines of just being stylish but, are now, branching out into providing wellbeing for the consumer.

Driven by various trend drivers in culture, society and the real space, health and wellness is the driving force behind many deeper micro trends in the market.

The part one of this report examines and explores the internal and external factors in the fashion industry that pushed this trend into business. Using multiple academic models effectively to analyse and validate the health and wellness trend whilst gaining insight into the consumer market and needs.

Part two identifies an appropriate brand to target the trend and carries out a detailed audit giving insight into both the brand and the innovation. Gymshark as an iconic brand in the active wear market, have the potential to influence their profit margin by catering to the current needs of the millennial and health conscious consumers in an innovative manner.

While active wear has divulged into the aspect of mental and physical wellbeing, the report aims to connect sustainability, fitness and hygiene constructively into an innovation for the brand through the examining of the outcomes and risks of the application.

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PART ONE PART ONE PART ONE PART ONE PART ONE PART ONE PART ONE

MACRO TREND INTRODUCTION. Health and wellness have been seperate and conjoined ongoing macro trends that have been alive for years with periods of vast influence over the population. Especially with the fitness market expanding exponentially on a £5.5 billion market rapidly before lockdown (Johnston, 2020). However, with the recent impact of Covid-19 on the masses, affecting them physically and psychologically, there has been an increasing demand in the health and fitness sectors in relation to wellness.

In June 2020 it was recorded that British adults experiencing anxiety and depression had risen 9.7% than last year, found by the ONS; evident internationally, there was an increase of suicide rates by 15.3% in Japan and three times more US adults stating their struggling battles with depression post Covid (Shin, 2020).

Another advancement of this macro trend is the blended sector of health and wellness where consumers are searching for a way of healthy living that provides reassurance to the mind along with the body.

Wellness is a £2.8 trillion market that is waiting to be utilised in collaboration with other industries and now people have the chance of looking at wellness as a community instead of an ‘individualistic mindset’, thinking out how outer elements impacts aspects aside from themselves (McGregor and Smith, 2020).

(Pinterest, 2020)

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CONSUMER CANVAS TREND TREND ANVAS

CANVAS CONSUMER UMER TREND CAN

Figure 1. Consumer Trend Canvas

BASIC NEEDS

The focus shift on health and wellness will require athleisure brands to devise creative and advanced aspects to meet the needs of the current millennial consumers that are interested in maintaining wellbeing through their fitness. During this inter covid period, health and safety are leading consumer fashion choices (LSN Global, 2020).

EMERGING CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS In an environment of lockdown and anxiety, consumers will aspire to

find enjoyment and wellness from their brands, whilst turning away ‘from a life of relentless productivity’ and enhancement (Friend and Smith, 2020).

As a result brand values and products that align with the promise of health and wellbeing and an insight into maintaining good health and immune systems (Global Wellness Institute, 2020) provide a sense of comfort to the consumer.

DRIVERS OF CHANGE

SHIFTS: Consumers are being more careful with where their financial purchases are going, thus putting more emphasis on the ‘why’ when buying from brands; leaving brands with the opportunity to consider providing resources that allow the consumer to ‘start a new journey’ (Mintel, 2020).The constant pressure set by the current environment and self motivation needed by remote working has resulted in a ‘burnout’ effect on consumers (Trendwatching, 2019). During this year consumers will be inclined to focus on winding down in healthier ways.

TRIGGERS: Maxwell and Stott (2018) mention in a LSN global article the current consumer trigger towards sustainable material innovation due to mental wellness and acceptance of the global impact of fashion, through material excess, on the environment.

The effect of the pandemic on the consumer mind and financial aspect triggered a shift into increasingly creative gym venues, using rising digital technologies and collaborations, with more people willing to ‘work out from home’ as per a nervousness to rejoin physical venues (FT, 2020).

INSPIRATION NIKE AND HEADSPACE - Encourages mindfulness by the targeting of mental and physical health through one collaborative space MIRROR - high-tech digital device revolutionising the at-home fitness concept, allowing live and offline participation of fitness classes, creating an incredible immersive experience.

TALA - promoting a vision of affordable, lower impact and high performance sportswear. The brand, whilst striving for inclusivity, by listening to the demographic needs of the activewear consumers into more sustainable behaviour from brands, TALA has targeted the younger generation effectively.

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YOUR INNOVATION Figure 1. Consumer Trend Canvas

(See PART 2 of report)

INNOVATION POTENTIAL

WHO

Anxiety over health and safety of gyms when re-opening, there is a potential for two routes of innovation to explore.

Millennials interested in sustainable living realising their impact on the environment.

The rising market of millennials and gen z that focus on their mental and physical wellbeing through the vice of fitness, along with the consumers engaged in extended living that are being more aware of healthier habits.

-CBD technology and usage is on the rise, especially with the younger consumers being more open-minded.

Potentially infusing CBD into the athleisure and active wear garments for a collection that assists consumers in avoiding stress levels to be able to focus on fitness training.

-Another potential innovation would be the use anti-viral textile technologies into a post pandemic collection partnered with the brand. With scientific innovational material companies traversing into anti-microbial properties protective against the spread of Covid-19, a collaborative innovation as such would be the ideal modernisation in this new hygiene first world. and advanced aspects to meet the needs of the current millennial consumers that are interested in maintaining wellbeing through their fitness. During this inter covid period, health and safety are leading consumer fashion choices (LSN Global, 2020).

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TREND DRIVERS. CULTURE Fitness: With a 34% predicted increase in the interest of consumers to be exercising at home (Ryan, 2020), there will be more of a boost into athleisure fashion culture and a focus on products promoting heath and self care will persevere in the long run.

Taking back control culture: Taking a rise within this era of helplessness felt by the effects of the current world happenings, consumers are looking to disregarding the negative distractions on social media and the news, essentially to “regain a sense of control and harmony” (Lutz, 2018).

Environmentally Conscious Wellness: A rising attention to sustainability and circular fashion has also increasingly become a societal concern on an international scale, becoming a pivotal driver in the purchasing decisions of consumers (Gazzola, Pavione, Pezzetti and Grechi, 2020). With the society wanting to experience a better standard of living with a guilt free conscience, circular fashion is promoting brands to create more renewable and longlasting materials that can have a positive impact and contribution to the fashion ecosystem (Mason, et al, 2015).

11 (Pinterest, 2020)

SOCIETY Health Concerns: As a society, health concerns is a rising driver and people are seeking a minimised risk experience for mental and physical wellbeing; with a rise into the research of ‘biochemical smart materials’ within the sportswear apparel industry (LSN Global article, 2019) the industry is noticing a shift into brands looking at immune supporting products for the society.

JOMO: While last year the FOMO (fear of missing out) culture was on the rise, for 2020, the JOMO (joy of missing out) attitude is being embraced and has seen about a rise of wellness in correlation with maintaining a clean and organised household (Mintel Blog, 2020).

RETAIL SPACE Promoting Healthcare: With the impact of covid and the consumer awareness of cleanliness and germs, many retail stores have been closing down psychical stores and investing in a more developed and technological online retail experience for consumers after seeing a development in digital commerce (LSN Global, 2020). The retail spaces that are thriving in the current situations are ones focusing on food and healthcare with retail pharmacies and retail clinics still existing strongly

in the market. Changing dynamics in the retail market are pushing brands to consider a more convergent experience for consumers and their current demand for care; while also realising the benefits of technological advances the quality of service and the tailored service (Deloitte, 2020).

(WGSN, 2020)

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TREND TIMELINE. Figure 2. Trend Timeline (See Appendix 2)

1900s Rise of healthy diets and healthy body

1860s Hydrotherapy

1970-1975 National Wellness Institute established

1913 Largest Training centre for physical Navy training

2007 Fitbit released

1980-2000 Creation of the Berkeley Wellness Letter 13

Figure 2. Trend Timeline

2012 Release of the Nike+ FuelBand

2017 The Wellness Moonshot: A World Free of Preventable Disease

2015 Apple Watch

2018 Puma x MIT Design Lab - bio feedback insoles

2018 Nike x Headspace collaboration

2020 Lululemon x Mirror collaboration

2018/19 Halo Technology - protective apparel

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CONSUMER ANALYSIS.

Demographics Amidst the pandemic the ideal consumer for the health and wellness trend has evolved, the ‘self-care aficionado’ consisting of about 5% of the global population (Nutraingredients, 2020). While the older consumer may focus more on managing stress, millennials are more involved in keeping fit and healthy and maintaining outward appearances (IRi, 2018). With the current differences between older and younger millennials being that the older generation might have already had the chance to sustain a career and future; the younger millennials will receive the biggest hit due to the pandemic and thus be more likely to be striving for stability and a higher priority to wellbeing.

Behavioural The start of lockdown initiated a sweep of anxiety over consumers and in the beginning lead to an increase into the sales of cigarettes and alcohol booming.

However, with this shift towards resilience and fear of health care a WGSN (2020) article states that studies show a potential increase in consumers wanting make better life decisions to lead healthier lives.

(Instagram, 2020)

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CONSUMER INSIGHTS consumer insights

CONSUMER ANALYSIS.

“35% of consumers browse for fashion inspiration in online shops at least one per week” (McKinsey & Company, 2020)

Psychographic In an age of uncertainty, it is essential for brands to cater their digital channels towards producing genuine, informative and goal-oriented communications regarding ‘health safety, business continuity, and community building’ as there is a predicted increase by 20 to 40% in online shares of the fashion and apparel industry during the next year (McKinsey & Company, 2020).

“45% of Americans say that the pandemic has affected their mental health” (WGSN, 2020)

“65% of people across the four countries are now more likely to consider their health in day-to-day decision-making” (GSK, 2020)

A GSK report (2020) states that almost 75% of people aged 16-24, mostly women, were concerned about their own health and that of people they were close to.

Analysis The focus shift on health and wellness will require athleisure brands to devise creative and advanced aspects to meet the needs of the current millennial consumers that are interested in maintaining wellbeing through their fitness. During this inter covid period, health and safety are leading consumer fashion choices (LSN Global, 2020)

“10% of consumers think brands should not promote their own interests at this time of crisis” (McKinsey & Company, 2020)

“66% of American Generation Z say a company’s reaction to BLM will permanently affect whether they buy from them in the future” (LSN Global, 2020)

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OPPORTUNITIES in the fashion industry.

TARGET - During the beginning of 2020, Target launched their

own activewear line in the US known as ‘All in Motion’ which featured a more sustainable, size inclusive and affordable range with ‘moisture wicking and ventilating fabrics’ (WGSN, 2020); with some of the premium fabrics having UPF50+ protection (Tyko, 2020). Developing these lower impact fabrics with the inclusivity element provided a larger demographic of consumers to buy from the brand in these times of monitored spending.

DIESEL - The Diesel Upfreshing collection consists of everyday

garments that have been coated with a ‘Protector Shield’ and according to the Diesel website, this is a ‘combination of certificated antibacterial and antimicrobial product and droplet barrier’ (Diesel Upfreshing | The Innovative Antimicrobial Limited Collection, 2020). Whilst the concept of antibacterial fabrics is not a blue ocean strategy and has already entered the active wear industry, this collection promotes less waste and a longer life for the garments, creating a ‘further environmental benefit’ (LSN Global, 2020).

MARTA SCARAMPI -

(Pinterest, 2020)

The Deco Travel Collection released by Marta Scarampi introduced a waterproof and breathable fabric onto their jumpsuit, masks and travel bags that was not only useful for weather protection but also protection against contamination during travel (Trendhunter, 2020).

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REEBOK - The PureMove sports bra created by Reebok was in partnership with the University

of Delaware researching the protective material aspect of fitness. By identifying a gap in the market where women felt uncomfortable exercising because of the lack of a perfect sports bra, this collaboration allowed them to create a product that adapts to the shape of the body and movement to create a more comfortable wear (Reebok, 2020), encouraging more women to invest in fitness.

ODLO - This active wear company Odlo created a ‘Futureskin’ base layer that was then collaborated

with Zaha Hadid Design to create a collection which resulted in garments that brought ’warmth and breathability’ to the body by using an organic body mapping technique inspired by the designers (LSN Global, 2019).

OPPORTUNITIES: A Business of Fashion article (2020) states a statement by he

chief executive of the sustainable denim labels DL1961 and Warp+Warp, Sarah Ahmed, where she mentions the affect of Covid on the consumer mind and how aware the pandemic has made the public to the ‘germs’ that may surround them. As clothing is relevant in all scenarios where the carrying of germs outside is associated, addressing these fears of health that affect the wellness of the consumer can be extremely beneficial for the fashion, and specifically athleisure or active wear industry.

(Pinterest, 2020)

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CULTURAL MODEL TRIANGLUATION ULTURAL MODE TRIANGLUATION MODEL CULTURA RIANGLUATION

Figure 3. Cultural Triangulation Model

INTUITION

With links to the health and wellness movement and functionality at the forefront of millenial minds, the athleisure market is currently booming.

The focus of millennial consumers are making moves towards wellbeing of their health, in regards to fitness and safety, bringing about a shift of brand values throughout their business model.

CULTURAL TRIANGULATION MODEL OBSERVATION

Observing how gym and fitness can assist in dealing with stress levels, The Gym Group released a marketing campaign offering 16-18 year olds a free of charge gym membership for six weeks in 2019 (Mintel, 2020).

Athleisure markets are booming within the industry of health and wellness with dominant brands such as Nike & Lululemon recoding an increase in shares by 34% and 54% respectively since the beginning of the year (CNBC, 2020).

Millennial concerns around hygiene have made 60% of consumers uncomfortable about physically attending gyms due to changing priorities, however, with a peaking interest of health and self care, Mintel (2020) has recorded growth in the purchase of sportswear by millennials and adults between the months of June and September this year.

INTERROGATION

With a rise in anxiety and stress induced by covid, 53% of adults are seeking for a sense of community (Mintel, 2020).

“Today as we’ve evolved, health and luxury is what is something that you experience but also what you, as an individual, putting in your body, in food or in homeware.”

(Volkinburg, 2020) (See appendix for full interview”. This view suggest the possibility that health as a luxury has direct correlation to your wellness as it involves complimenting your bodys’ needs.

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Universal Awareness

SCIENTIFIC

SOCIAL

E M OT I O N A L

SPIRITUAL

TREND ATLAS.

Figure 2. Trend Atlas

Active Awareness

Active Leisure

Lifestyle Choices & Consumption

Balanced Lifestyle

Inclusivity

Communication

Sharing Economy

Transparency

Technology

AntiViral Smart Interactive Textiles Wearable VR

Health Aware

The Big Society

Wellbeing

Healthcare Tech

Quality of Life

Authenticity

Health & Safety

Community

Economics

Rising New Business Economies Models

Wellness Empowerment

Ethical Collaboration Consumption

Organisations

No Age Society

Politics & Legislation

Protest Culture

Trust

A Better World

Social Structures

Activism Culture

Self Care

Post Covid Government

CSR / Brand Engagement

Work from Home

Environment

Environmental Excess Waste Materials Challenges

PART TWO PART TWO PART TWO PART TWO PART TWO PART TWO PART TWO

(Instagram, 2020) (IFTNA, 2020)

As an activewear brand, Gymshark is an advocate for leading healthier lifestyles through fitness, while also addressing wellness issues through their digital media channels. Gymshark’s USP is their large investment into customer engagement and brand ambassadors that showcases the positive influence the brand has on their consumers (Gymshark, 2020). A survey Statista (2020) conducted during May 2020 revealed a large percentage of consumers in the UK, US and Germany largely investing into health and hygiene products, with a 30% increase spending on household cleaning products and a considerable 36% increase on hand sanitisers and wipes.

A gym wear collection targeting this consumer need would deliver a significant return on investment for Gymshark, specifically during this pandemic period and continuing, as the trend of health and wellness is unlikely to diminish. The collection would contain a antimicrobial, antibacterial, and antiviral textile agent, increasing the durability and hygiene levels of the garments, providing a more responsible purchase option for consumers.

The innovational collaboration would involve partnering with IFTNA (Intelligent Fabric Technologies North America) who specialise in developing products aimed at improving health safety and wellbeing needs of the consumer and the brand while working in the markets of ‘health care, sports and athletic wear, fashion, house, home and hospitality and corporate apparel in many other sectors’ (What We Do - Iftna, 2020).

brand and innovation concept

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PRIMARY RESEARCH. Whilst investing into the health trend Gymshark has further been contributing as an advocate for mental wellbeing.

As seen in the figures in appendix 4 of their Instagram research, the brand features conversations and tips about mental health, along with general fitness and nutrition advice; showcasing their ability to provide useful wellbeing information to their consumer demographic effectively.

This agenda is shown throughout their social media channels on Twitter and Facebook alike (see appendix 4), promotion of health and wellbeing and constant sense of community by reaching out to consumers and offering a space for conversation.

“I want gymshark to be the future of the way that fitness works with brands.

I want it to be aspirational to everyone, I want it to be a place where anyone can g o, w h e t h e r y o u ’ r e a p o w e r l i ft e r o r a b o d y b u i l d e r o n a r u n n e r, w h e t h e r y o u ’ r e on the journey or at the end of the j o u r n e y…

I w a n t t o s o m e h o w w o r ko u t h o w w e c a n be inspirational to all those people” B e n Fr a n c i s Gy m s h a r k O w n e r, 2 0 2 0 24

An observation noticed was the lack of male inclusivity throughout their digital channels. Although Gymshark do not target their consumers on the basis of gender, their marketing is generally stronger for the female demographic - emphasised through the separate official Instagram page targeted for women (@Gymsharkwomen).

When the male demographic is targeted, a similar aesthetic is used that by some consumers is not considered as ‘maintainable’ or ‘achievable’ (Gymshark Instagram, 2020), with a small amount of content that can be seen as ‘realistic’.

As discussed with an expert interview, the goal of brands is to “build trust with their consumer base” (see Appendix 3), thus by using more male ambassadors with ‘real’ bodies could insight an increase in customer loyalty and influence.

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Application Application Application Application Application Application Application Application Application Application Application

Target Target Target Target Target Target Target Target Target Target Target

(Instagram, 2020)

Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer Consumer

Despite the younger generation being negatively financial affected by the pandemic, with more conscious spending on their mind, they are still ‘willing to spend money on compelling brands’ (Wellness Creatives, 2020) - specifically with brands that share the current trend values of millennials.

The target consumer for the collection will be focused according to the age demographic as there is potential for all genders to invest in the innovation.

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VIEW INNOVATION RESEARCH SCROLL DOWN NOW

adoption model Analysing and putting together the information from Part 1, it is evident that the health and wellness macro trend in fashion currently sits at the ‘Early Majority’ stage as athleisure wear has already has an impact in the industry; and with Gymshark consumers relying heavily on brand ambassador opinions, the ‘Early Majority’ stage is entirely appropriate.

However, when taking into consideration the anti-viral properties, the innovation is taking a new turn and fulfilling the need in the market for more health and safety values by athleisure wear brands.

(Adapted from Rogers, 1995) (researchgate.net, 2003)

impact matrix The innovation impact will be high as the technologies being introduced and the company that produces these agents are open about the technologies that they are developing and are known internationally.

The innovation itself is extremely on trend, with the health and hygiene aspect combined with the leisure and active wear aspect, creating a significant impact with the consumers.

The degree of uncertainty lies at a medium due to the anti-viral technologies being fairly new to the industry of fashion and athleisure.

(researchgate.net, 2020)

risk appetite

Gymshark have a moderate to low appetite for risk, showing this through their rarity in sales and discounts while competing with other athleisure brands that operate at an even more affordable price range. The brand itself has more of an appetite for being innovative at marketing and engagement.

This puts them around the Risk Appetite level, presented in the graph. Although, the involvement of anti-viral textiles could push them into the risk capacity level due to a potential lack of trust of the IFTNA involvement for consumers.

(CU insights, 2016)

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innovation sweet spot

Desirability

Viability

Mintel (2020) describes the current consumer, to lead a healthier lifestyle, will struggle with divorcing themselves from damaging habits, they want brands to help with this change.

The sustainability element targets the consumer need of the current activism and environmental wellness culture, allowing them to take part through the brand.

Along with the shift of interest into millennials exercising or wanting to, being 81% and even 61% of the older generation (Wellness Creatives, 2020) brands that have invested in the fitness, health and wellness market are bound to have a rising profit margin, through and, after the pandemic.

sweet spot The ‘anti-viral collection’ for Gymshark connect all four aspects of the innovation analysis, providing wellness through wear, safety and durability of the garments.

Although athleisure brands and the trend of health and wellbeing may not have the most environmental impact, the antiviral collection encourages consumers to think about their impact on the industry.

Integrity

A LSN Global report (2020) that interviewed IFTNA describes how getting consumers to regard anti-viral fabrics with importance, before covid, was difficult; however now there are brands willing to collaborate anti-microbial textiles into even yoga pants.

Feasibility 30

A N T I

B A C T E

E R I A L

A N T I

B A C T E R I A L A N T I

B A C T E

CAMPAIGN CAMPAI (Instagram, 2020)

CAMPAIGN

differentiate reinforce

INNOVATION APPLICATION.

Gymshark differentiated in the athleisure market by creating a new product, through collaboration with a healthcare company, an innovative solution to the specific hygiene issues surround viral contamination in the fitness industry.

To reinforce the brand message, Gymshark further collaborated with IFTNA, to proposition a more sustainable aspect.

By offering an anti microbial laundry detergent (with the same properties that the garment consist of, though only for a certain amount of washes) through their online digital channels, has created service for their consumers that may not want to invest in new garments because of excess consumption issues but are still concerned about hygiene.

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inform

- There will be more focus on creating an omni-channel experience through making all the relevant information about the technologies, behind the ‘anti-viral collection’, accessible throughout all digital channels of the brand.

- Facebook will partner with Gymshark again to create an informative video, with this being one of the most effective ways of the brands marketing tactics, that will be released a whole month before the launch.

- The Gymshark website will link the IFTNA web page to the launch site of the collection for further education tools before the launch.This gives plenty of time for the brand to engage with user feedback and gain the trust of consumers regarding the innovation.

persuade

- A highlights story will be put up on the @Gymshark instagram page where consumers can watch an interview between a gymshark ambassador and a person from the IFTNA team answer relevant questions into the benefits (see social media campaign mockups below), the impact that the collection has and the ways to use the sustainable element.

- Since using influencer and brand ambassador testimonies has generating high engagement with the brand previously, there will be products from the collection sent to a few of their most followed brand ambassadors for online reviews.

This should create some tactical UGC that will inform and persuade consumers.

- Social media will set up the hashtags saying #StaySafeBuyBetter (see mock ups) as a collaboration of the ‘Stay safe, Stay home’ and the ‘Buy less, Buy better’ sayings, effectively promoting the appropriate health and wellness aspects that the collection is targeting.

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MOCK for UPS the campaign

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LSN Global, 2020. Inter Covid Fashion. [online] LSN Global. Available at: <https://www-lsnglobal-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/micro-trends/article/25804/inter-covid-fashion> [Accessed 17 November 2020].

LSN Global (2020) Moral Commerce. [online] LSN Global. Available at: <https://www-lsnglobal-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/micro-trends/article/25809/moral-commerce> [Accessed 17 November 2020].

Lutz, L., (2018) These Five Drivers Are Fuelling The Wellness Trend. [online] Dalziel & Pow. Available at: <https://www.dalziel-pow.com/news/five-drivers-fuelling-wellnesstrend> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

Mason, H., Mattin, D., Luthy, M. and Dumitrescu, D (2015) Trend Driven Innovation. New Jersey: Wiley, pp.25, 26.

McKinsey & Company (2020) Fashion’S Digital Transformation: Now Or Never. [online] McKinsey & Company. Available at: <https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/McKinsey/Industries/Retail/Our%20Insights/Fashions%20digital%20transformation%20Now%20or%20never/Fashions-digital-transformation-now-or-never-VF.pdf> [Accessed 21 November 2020].

37

Mintel Blog (2020) The Evolution Of Self-Care. [online] Mintel. Available at: <https://www.mintel.com/blog/personal-care-market-news/the-evolution-of-self-care> [Accessed 22 November 2020].

Mintel, 2020. Wellbeing 2020: Health Undefined. [online] Mintel. Available at: <https://clients-mintel-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/trend/wellbeing-2021-health-undefined?fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3DDecision%2520Making%2520Process> [Accessed 31 November 2020].

Nike News, 2012. Nike+ FuelBand makes life a sport. [online] Available at: <https://news.nike.com/news/nike-fuelband-makes-life-a-sport> [Accessed 21 November 2020].

Nutraingredients (2020) 2020 Consumer Types. [online] nutraingredients. Available at: <https://www.nutraingredients.com/Article/2020/08/21/2020-Consumer-Types-Therise-of-the-self-care-aficionado> [Accessed 21 November 2020].

Statista, 2020. Products And Services People Spend More Than Usual On Due To The COVID-19. [online] Statista. Available at: <https://www.statista.com/statistics/1108088/ products-and-services-people-spend-more-on-due-to-the-covid-19-pandemic/> [Accessed 1 December 2020].

Ryan, L., (2020) Second National Lockdown Will Solidify The Home Fitness Trend. [online] Mintel Reports. Available at: <https://reports-mintel-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/display/1049347/?fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3Dhealth%2520management%2520trends%2520for%25202020> [Accessed 24 November 2020].

Trendhunter, 2020. Marta Scarampi Is Reimagining Travel Apparel For The New Normal. [online] Trendhunter. Available at: <https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/travel-apparel> [Accessed 21 November 2020].

Tyko, K. (2020) Target’s new ‘All in Motion’ activewear brand now available online. USA TODAY, [online] Available at: <https://eu.usatoday.com/story/money/2020/01/09/ target-activewear-sporting-goods-brand-launching-january/2833876001/> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

UK.Diesel. 2020. Diesel Upfreshing | The Innovative Antimicrobial Limited Collection. [online] Available at: <https://uk.diesel.com/en/upfreshing-collection/> [Accessed 15 November 2020].

Verovšek, P., 2020. Contemporary Geopolitical Trends And COVID-19| SPERI. [online] SPERI. Available at: <http://speri.dept.shef.ac.uk/2020/06/23/contemporary-geopolitical-trends-and-covid-19-the-return-of-the-political/> [Accessed 28 November 2020].

Wareable, 2020. The Story Of Fitbit: How A Wooden Box Was Bought By Google For $2.1Bn. [online] Wareable. Available at: <https://www.wareable.com/fitbit/story-of-fitbit-7936> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

WGSN Insights, 2019. Digital Wellness: Shifts And Strategies. [online] WGSN. Available at: <https://www-wgsn-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/insight/article/82701> [Accessed 29 November 2020].

WGSN, 2020. Future Drivers 2021. [online] WGSN. Available at: <https://www-wgsn-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/insight/article/81654#page_10> [Accessed 1 December 2020].

WGSN (2020) The Value Shift. [online] WGSN. Available at: <https://createtomorrowwgsn.com/2110643-wp-the-value-shift/?_fsi=cwBf2UlH> [Accessed 20 November 2020].

WGSN (2020) Combatting corona blues. [online] WGSN. Available at: <https://www-wgsn-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/insight/article/88757> [Accessed 20 November 2020].

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trend timeline

Art of manliness, 2014. An Excerpt From One Of Herbert’s Books. [image] Available at: <https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/the-history-of-physical-fitness/> [Accessed 28 November 2020].

Berkeley Wellness, n.d. Wellness Letter Banner. [image] Available at: <https://www.berkeleywellness.com/healthy-community/health-care-policy/article/celebrating35-years-older-and-we-hope-wiser> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

Calvin Medical, n.d. Naturopathic Medicine. [image] Available at: <https://calvinmedical.com/blog/naturopathic-medicine/> [Accessed 29 November 2020].

Global Wellness Institute, n.d. The Wellness Moonshot Banner. [image] Available at: <https://globalwellnessinstitute.org/wellness-moonshot/> [Accessed 29 November 2020].

Gymshark Instagram, 2020. Gymshark Representatives. [image] Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/gymshark/> [Accessed 28 November 2020].

LSN global, 2020. Biodesign by Puma and MIT Design Lab. [image] Available at: <https://www-lsnglobal-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/beauty/article/22683/material-far-futures> [Accessed 24 November 2020].

LSN global, 2019. HALO By Aexos. [video] Available at: <https://lsn-staging.s3.amazonaws.com/filestorage/videos/6116/halo-by-aexos-kickstarter.mp4/720p_ libx264.mp4> [Accessed 28 November 2020].

Lululemon, 2020. MIRROR From Lululemon. [image] Available at: <https://shop.lululemon.com/story/mirror-home-gym> [Accessed 30 December 2020].

National Wellness Institute, 2020. NWI Logo. [image] Available at: <https://nationalwellness.org/> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

Nike News, 2012. Nike Fuelband Single Original. [image] Available at: <https://news.nike.com/news/nike-fuelband-makes-life-a-sport> [Accessed 27 November 2020].

Science Source, n.d. Hydrotherapy, Full Bath And Air Bath, 1860S. [image] Available at: <https://www.sciencesource.com/CS.aspx?VP3=SearchResult&ITEMID=SS2793391&POPUPPN=1&POPUPIID=2OPEBMAN21GL&RW=703&RH=727> [Accessed 28 December 2020].

Twitter, 2018. Headspace On Twitter. [image] Available at: <https://twitter.com/headspace/status/997809091765415936> [Accessed 28 November 2020].

Verizon, n.d. Apple Watch. [image] Available at: <https://www.verizon.com/articles/brief-history-of-apple-watch/#:~:text=Apple%20Watch%20was%20presented%20by,to%20the%20fitness%2Doriented%20features.> [Accessed 29 November 2020].

Wareable.com, 2020. Woman Wearing Fitbit. [image] Available at: <https://www.wareable.com/fitbit/story-of-fitbit-7936> [Accessed 29 November 2020].

images reference list.

39

trend atlas

Smart Wearable - Wareable.com, 2020. Woman Wearing Fitbit. [image] Available at: <https://www.wareable.com/fitbit/story-of-fitbit-7936> [Accessed 29 November 2020].

Interactive VR - VR Fitness Insider, 2018. VR gaming. [image] Available at: <https://www.vrfitnessinsider.com/top-15-best-vr-fitness-games-total-bodyworkout/> [Accessed 29 November 2020].

AntiViral Textiles - LSN global, 2020. Purifying by Studio Brasch for The Future Laboratory. [image] Available at: <https://www-lsnglobal-com.arts.idm. oclc.org/beauty/article/22683/material-far-futures> [Accessed 24 November 2020].

Uncertain Economies - UNSW newsroom, 2020. Weak GDP growth predicted for the start of 2020. [image] Available at: <https://newsroom.unsw.edu. au/news/business-law/bleak-2020-forecast-australian-economy> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

New Business models - Santachiara ODPF, n.d. Business Services. [image] Available at: <https://www.santachiaraodpf.it/en/business-services/> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Protest Culture - McCoy, M. A., 2017. Fuck this shit. [image] Available at: <https://www.huckmag.com/art-and-culture/photography-2/six-tips-aspiringprotest-photographers/> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

Post Covid Government - SSIR, 2020. A ‘Stay Home’ sign in Cape Town during the coronavirus lockdown. [image] Available at: <https://ssir.org/articles/ entry/the_cultural_and_social_challenges_to_slowing_the_pandemic_in_africa [Accessed at 29 November 2020].

Environmental challenges - Common Objective, n.d. Birds eye view over the depletion of water spaces over time. [image] Available at: <https://www. commonobjective.co/article/fashion-s-key-environmental-issues> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Excess Waste Materials - Forbes, 2019. Ahead of G7 meeting, 32 major fashion players from Burberry to Chanel have signed a pact promising to reduce the industry’s negative environmental impact. [image] Available at: <https://www.forbes.com/sites/andriacheng/2019/08/23/major-fashion-companies-signpact-vowing-to-reduce-industrys-environmental-impact/?sh=7e6930304db1> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Resource Depletion - Smart Water Magazine, 2020. Toxic Clothing. [image] Available at: <https://smartwatermagazine.com/blogs/gulsah-mersin/fastfashion-toxic-clothing> [Accessed at 29 November 2020].

Sharing economy - IED, n.d. Sharing economies and social inclusion illustration. [image] Available at: <https://ied.eu/project-updates/collaborativeeconomy-and-its-impact/> [Accessed at 29 November 2020].

Transparency - Freedom Online Coalition, n.d. Introducing a People-Centered Standard for Online Transparency. [image] Available at: <https:// freedomonlinecoalition.com/working-groups/working-group-3/wg3-privacy-and-transparency-online-blog-series-2/> [Accessed at 29 November 2020].

Activism culture - The Pitt News, 2019. Online call-out culture cancels real activism. [image] Available at: <https://pittnews.com/article/139724/ opinions/columns/social-media-2/> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Community - Workday, n.d. Community illustration. [image] Available at: <https://www.workday.com/en-za/customer-experience/community.html> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Wellness Empowerment - Williams. V., n.d. 5 Wellness Empowerment Tools. [image] Available at: <https://vanessacwilliams.com/5-wellnessempowerment-tools-for-a-fresh-start/> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

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no age society - Global Influences, 2011. The No-Age Society. [image] Available at: <https://global-influences.com/no-age-society/> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

CSR / brand engagement - Persona Design, 2016. Hands with one hand holding soil with a budding plant and another holding money. [image] Available at: < https://www.personadesign.ie/brand-csr-the-business-case-for-successful-branding-and-social-good/> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Work from home - Forbes, 2020. Is working from home the future of work?. [image] Available at: <https://www.forbes.com/sites/nextavenue/2020/04/10/isworking-from-home-the-future-of-work/?sh=3a626f9546b1> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Health care technology - Health Europa, 2019. Image of a tablet with data and a stethoscope on a table. [image] Available at: <https://www.healtheuropa.eu/ technology-and-healthcare-working-together/94898/> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

Active leisure (athleisure) - GH, 2020. New Balance garments folded. [image] Available at: <https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/clothing/g31989983/bestathleisure-wear-brands/> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

Balanced lifestyle - Global Wellness Summit, 2020. Focus Shifts from Sleep to True Circadian Health. [image] Available at: <https://www.globalwellnesssummit. com/2020-global-wellness-trends/> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

Inclusivity - A Magazine, 2020. Illustrated art of an inclusive range of women. [image] Available at: <https://theamag.com/4925-2/> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

Authenticity - standforyourbeliefs, 2019. Brand Authenticity person. [image] Available at: <https://www.standforyourbeliefs.com/brand-authenticity-powered-bythe-science-of-purpose/> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

Health and Safety - Personnel Today, 2020. Person wearing mask applying hand sanitiser. [image] Available at:<https://www.personneltoday.com/hr/covid-19staff-fear-health-and-safety-being-taken-to-the-extreme/> [Accessed at 24 November 2020]

Ethical consumption - Ethical Consumer, 2018. Ethical consumption photoshopped image. [image] Available at: <https://www.ethicalconsumer.org/retailers/top5-ethical-companies-brands> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Collaboration - Muzli, 2019. Illustration of hands together in the centre. [image] Available at: <https://medium.muz.li/the-secrets-of-collaboration75e3782d627f> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Health aware - Wise Living, 2020. How to boost your mood with exercise. [image] Available at: <https://wiselivingmagazine.co.uk/health/wellbeing/boost-yourmood-with-exercise/> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

Self care - Atlas, 2020. Yoga, Meditation And Aqua Training At Atmantan’s Spa Package. [image] Available at: <https://atlas.etihad.com/what-wellness-looks-likein-2020/> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

Trust - EHS Today, 2020. Silhouette of people assisting and trusting one another. [image] Available at: <https://www.ehstoday.com/safety-leadership/ article/21120116/a-matter-of-trust-how-to-evolve-and-manage-worker-health-safety> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

Active awareness - Aesthetics Journal, 2019. Image of a hand holding an illustrated lit up brain. [image] Available at: <https://aestheticsjournal.com/news/

mental-health-workshop-to-take-place-for-aesthetic-practitioners> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

the big society - SIPRI, n.d. Pedestrians at Shibuya crossing in Tokyo, Japan. [image] Available at: <https://sipri.org/research/peace-and-development/governance41 and-society> [Accessed at 26 November 2020]

Chaffey, D., Ellis-Chadwick, F., Johnston, K. & Mayer, R. (2012) Digital Marketing: Strategy, Implementation and Practice. Harlow: Prentice Hall.

Chevalier, M. & Gutsatz, M. (2012) Luxury Retail Management: How the World’s Top Brands Provide Quality Product and Service Support. Chichester, John Wiley & Sons Divita, L. (2019) Fashion Forecasting, New York: Bloomsbury Geczy, A. & Karaminas, V. (2019) The End of Fashion, London: Bloomsbury Holland, G. (2017) Fashion Trend Forecasting, London: Laurence King Kjaer, AL. (2014) The trend management toolkit: a practical guide to the future, Hampshire: Palgrave Macmillan Mason, H. et al (2015) Beat accelerating customer expectations with trend-driven innovation, Hoboken, New Jersey: Wiley Quinn, B, (2012), Fashion Futures, Merrell Publishing 12 Raymond, M. (2010) The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook, London: Laurence King Ryan, D. & Jones, C. (2012) Understanding digital marketing: marketing strategies for engaging the digital generation. London, Philadelphia: Kogan Page.

Varley, R. Roncha, A. Radclyffe-Thomas, N. And Gee, L. (2018) Fashion Management: A Strategic Approach. London: Palgrave

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APPEND PENDIX appendix.

43

appendix 1.

PESTLE analysis for Part 1

44

appendix 2.

1860 - The cure of hydrotherapy rose about as far back as the 1800s, promoted by Sebastian Kneipp which provides health wellbeing through a combination of exercise, nutrition and herbalism (Global Wellness Institute, 2019) 1900s - A holistic approach of ‘learning to stay well’ through a combination of exercise, a healthy diet and naturopathy, the first steps into self care are taken (Global Wellness Institute, 2019) 1913 - Push forward of physical culture through training for the navy and self defence brought about the introduction of the most modern and largest training centre by Georges Hebert in Reims, 1913 (AOM, 2014) 1970 - 1975 - The first ever wellness centre was created by John Travis, Don Ardell, Bill Hettler and their associates which then went on to establish the National Wellness Institute, they were known as the “fathers of the wellness movement” (Global Wellness Institute, 2019)

Full trend timeline information

1980 - 2000 - A slight shift from simply focusing fitness to wellness takes place. The ‘Berkeley Wellness Letter (1984) was created taking a more wellness approach to health (Global Wellness Institute, 2019).

2007 - Founded by Eric Friedman and James Park the Fitbit was introduced during early 2007, taking 2000 pre-orders in one day in 2008 when pitching at a Tech conference (Wareable, 2020) 2012 - Launch of the Nike plus FuelBand that seemed to be inspired by the Fitbit technology.

Providing smart technology that allowed tracking and measuring of movement, inspiring activeness and light motivation (Nike News, 2012)

45

2015 - Apple Watch was introduced with a very advanced and refined insight into activity monitoring and sensors that not only tracked movement but also the heart rate, acting as the perfect health and fitness companion for consumers (Apple Insider, 2020) 2017 - Research into uniting the health and wellness industries produced the ‘The Wellness Moonshot: A World Free of Preventable Disease’; an action created by GWI in partnership with Dr. Richard H. Carmona with insight into avoiding and eliminating disease for better health (Global Wellness Institute, 2019) 2018 - The perfect collaboration of the mindfulness and wellness world with the health and fitness industry produced the partnership between Nike and Headspace. Combining meditation content seamlessly blended in with personal on-app training with athletes connects both the body and mind of the consumer (Headspace and Nike, 2020) 2018 - Influence of smart textile technology appears into the active wear industry. Puma created a bio-feedback conducting insole, in collaboration with MIT Design Lab, that used bacteria to gather chemical data collection to assist in indicating the fatigue levels of the user (LSN Global, 2018)

Full trend timeline information

2018/19 - Aexos, a Canadian start-up brand, created protective apparel for athletes to promote a safe and healthy lifestyle. The Halo technology contains a smart material that stiffens during impact, protecting the wearer from the likelihood of whiplash or concussions (LSN Global, 2019).

2020 - Lululemon purchased a high tech mirror by.a start-up home-fitness company that allows consumers to stream workout classes from home, with a shift onto the attitude of home fitness the active wear brand is already investing into new smart digital technologies (FT, 2020)

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appendix 3.

Health and Wellness are quite popular in the media right now, what do you think is the impact of this on the sustainability industry?

“Previously talking about health and wellbeing, especially mental health have been uncomfortable topics, but now that has changed” “Luxury is defined by having a good watch, a big house or pool etc. … wealth and luxury is now about what you experience” “Healthy is a now a luxury to many people” “There is more of an emphasis on a healthy lifestyle, eating better food and even buying less.

And if people do invest in fashion its more about buying stuff where they favour quality over quantity” “Its this world of ‘buy less, buy better’ attitude” “In addition fashion is not just about style anymore, its about complimenting your needs as well” “In relation to wellbeing, what people wear and what they own, wearing what you believe and invest in gives you joy - makes them proud to wear what aligns with their views” How much would consumers trust fashion brands with their input or innovations regarding healthcare and wellness? And what would be important for a brand to consider when doing so?

Primary Research Dr. Nina Van Volkinburg virtual interview transcript

“In this time health and safety is such an importance - a factor that is extremely relevant and that consumers are definitely interested in” “Being able to link healthcare and wellness to sustainable textiles and the hygiene factor suggest that brands need to deliver…a goal of brands is to build trust with the consumer base” “Consider if involving health and wellness into your brand products or marketing makes sense The brand that you have chosen fits the mark as a brand that puts health and safety first building that trust for consumers, therefore, if gymshark decided to launch a health and wellness inspired collection it would make sense” 47

“When it comes technology and textiles and certainly with that hygiene factor and the goal that brands have, why they’re doing this, is to build trust with their consumer base and they are able to build that trust when they’re delivering on products. Because health and safety is just such an important product, especially today, so if the brand can deliver that and prove that then, of course, that will be an important factor for the consumer. I believe they would be interested in using an anti bacterial textile from a certain brand. So yes, if they can provide evidence and information and really involve customers then absolutely.”

“Say if a brand has garments that are extremely cheap and it is all about trends and pushing products and for them to say we’re adding a line of hygienic wear and very effective anti bacterial textile, it doesn’t align with that brands offering. But if the brand has a higher price point and they’ve already had a history of excellent R&D and their products are really high quality, then maybe it would make sense that they have the resources to deliver on those products… without trust it would be very difficult and then you have to think who are the customers of the brand, say PLT, they’re reason for buying is not for health and safety, they’re buying for inexpensive trendy clothes and thats their motivation. Your brand gymshark do put health and safety first because they’re engaging in this active lifestyle being healthy so it would align, from a participants point of view and from your lecturers point of view, yes you have to consider if it not just makes sense to the brand but also from that customer perspective and if thats what they desire” Where would you reckon this health and wellness trend will be taken in the future, in the fashion industry as well? Also in terms of the healthcare side and the development of innovative textiles?

“Health and wellbeing trend is not going away, however on the wellbeing side its very positive that people are talking about uncomfortable topics and with health its becoming the new luxury, in the 80s luxury was defined by wealth and what you had. Today as we’ve evolved, health and luxury is what is something that you experience (luxury travel) but also what you, as an individual, putting in your body, in food or in homeware. Its really targeting around this lifestyle that puts you first and you making the most of life so when we translate that to fashion - you’re not just wearing fashion to show you’re sense of style but it is to compliment your needs and this certainly won’t go away. And this pandemic has completely shifted this health trend as we are so effected by it so there needs to be a lot more research regarding that.”

Primary Research Dr. Nina Van Volkinburg virtual interview transcript

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appendix 4.

Primary netnographic research of Instagram, Twitter and Facebook

50

appendix 5.

Desirability

Full Innovation Sweet Spot model

Viability

Mintel (2020) describes the current consumer, to lead a healthier lifestyle, will struggle with divorcing themselves from damaging habits, they want brands to help with this change.

Millennials now are expressing their shift and priority on caring about sustainability, since the pandemic, with 41% suggesting that brands must take responsibility towards their impact on the environment (Boesel, 2020). The sustainability element targets the consumer need of the current activism and environmental wellness culture, allowing them to take part through the brand.

Along with the shift of interest into millennials exercising or wanting to, being 81% and even 61% of the older generation (Wellness Creatives, 2020) brands that have invested in the fitness, health and wellness market are bound to have a rising profit margin, through and, after the pandemic.

With the D2C market looking to expand 11.5% by 2021 (WGSN, 2020), consumers are searching for convenience in most markets but the growth in the wellness and home care sectors remain major drivers.

Although athleisure brands and the trend of health and wellbeing may not have the most environmental impact, the antiviral collection encourages consumers to think about their impact on the industry.

The ethos of ‘buy less, buy better’ in todays trends emphasises the importance of producing a collection targeting sustainability.

The aspect becoming more sustainability conscious is shown by the innovations ability of extending the garments durability and improving the potential of impact by the brand on the environment.

The PROTX2AV antimicrobial technology integrated into the textiles of the new collection provides an asset into the healthcare needs of the consumer.

A LSN Global report (2020) that interviewed IFTNA describes how getting consumers to regard anti-viral fabrics with importance, before covid, was difficult; however now there are brands willing to collaborate anti-microbial textiles into even yoga pants.

Integrity

Feasibility

51