Branding & Design 2021 02 by Nilorn Worldwide

CONTENTS NO. 2 2021

WELCOME

Dear Reader

6 TRENDSPOTTING Conscious mind

SUPPORTING CLIENTS TO MAKE MORE SUSTAINABLE CHOICES

Sneak peek into the work of our sales department

CAMP 2 CAMP

FROM TRASH TO TREASURE

CONTENTS

12 SET THE TABLE FOR THE FUTURE Great focus on sustainabillity

Remaking fashion for the circular economy

31 21:2 DESIGN COLLECTIONS Product development

NILORN WORLDWIDE

Nilorn Japan - Kazuko Imaguchi

Festival camping reimagined with heart and circularity at its core

WE ARE SPINDYE

Supreme Colors - Low Impact - Radical transparency

52 WORKING FROM HOME The future of the workplace

56 PADEL FEVER The rise and rise of Racqet

26 COVER PHOTO Photo/Model Anna Lidström Illustration Damien Lynch

PAPER Cover Scandia 2000 White 300 gr Body Amber Graphic 120g

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Our Branding & design magazine is produced with the greatest possible environmental consideration. It’s printed on Amber Graphic 120 g/m2 from Arctic paper. All standard Arctic Paper Munkedals products are FSC-certified.

www.nilorn.com @nilornworldwide @nilornworldwide @nilorn worldwide @nilorn worldwide

Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands by using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisﬁed customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through ﬁrst-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of ca 60 M EUR0. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Spain, Hong Kong, India, China, Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, Holland, Tunisia and USA.

HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel: +46 33 700 88 00 Fax:+46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel: +41 62 855 27 50 Fax: +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Plot 1361, 5th and 6th fl. Avenue 10 Mirpur DOHS Dhaka -1216 BANGLADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Kongensgade 31B 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel: +45 70 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +852 2 371 2218 Fax: +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com

NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax: +49 2103 908 16 - 99 info@de.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD 71/1 First Floor, Industrial Area Najafgarh Road Shivaji Marg New Delhi, India Zip Code 110015 INDIA Tel. +91 11 47093583/47091003 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN ITALY Via Enrico Fermi 40 41012 – Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com NILORN JAPAN 9th floor GranDuo IKEJIRI Bldg. 2-32-9 KIEJIRI, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 154-0001 JAPAN Tel: +81 3 64455 5290 kazuko.imaguchi@jp.nilorn.com NILORN THE NETHERLANDS Werfstraat 2 NL-9712 VN GRONINGEN THE NETHERLANDS Tel: +31 592 310 030 Mob: +31 6 50501020 jan-henk.hommes@nl.nilorn.com NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax:+92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com

NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 605, No.258, Chengjiaqiao Road Minhang District, Shanghai, CHINA Poastal Code 201103 Tel: +86-21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com NILORN TURKEY Baģlar Manhallesi 49 Sokak No: 50 K:3 Baģcilar/Istanbul TURKEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD Station Works Greens Mill Court Cononley N Yorks BD20 8FE UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44 1535 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN USA (EAST COAST) Box 365 Macungie, PA 18062 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 201 874 5515 keith.unger@us.nilorn.com NILORN USA LLC (WEST COAST) 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 888-315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com

WELCOME

DEAR READER

In this edition we interview Anna Lidström (PHD student at the School of Textiles and founder of “Another Studio” and Jennifer Larsson, (research assistant and designer at Science Park Borås and the School of Textiles) who explain how they want to re-make fashion for the circular economy.

The Covid-19 pandemic is still ongoing and has impacted many of us around the world - but we continue to support our employees and clients alike during the ongoing situation. Although some countries are still affected more than others, we do THE CONTENTS REFLECT THE see positive progress as more and more people TRENDS WE SEE DEVELOPING, are now being vaccinated WITH A CONTINUING STRONG and many countries are starting to relax restrictions. FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY AND

WELCOME

am delighted to present the second edition of our Branding & Design magazine for 2021. The contents reflect the trends we see developing, with a continuing strong focus on sustainability and circularity. This makes me both proud and excited for our future progression, and I hope you feel the same.

transparent. In one of our articles, we speak to Ginny and Alexander, both Sales Executives within Nilorn, to understand how they support and guide our clients to make more sustainable choices, and the way forward.

CIRCULARITY. THIS MAKES ME

The future may be uncertain, but it is very BOTH PROUD AND EXCITED FOR exciting too – and I feel it is OUR FUTURE PROGRESSION, AND the strongest, sustainable brands that will thrive in As always, we present our I HOPE YOU FEEL THE SAME. the future. Nilorn is ready latest Nilorn design collections to highlight your brand’s - including ‘Comeback’, a strengths through innovative customised solutions. concept bringing circularity to the garment trims, and we share knowledge about ‘Cradle to Cradle’. We look forward to continuing our progress within sustainability and hope that the Covid-19 situation My goal for Nilorn is that we will continue continues to improve throughout the remainder of 2021. contributing towards sustainable development through supporting our clients – providing them with information to make the right decisions and by being

Krister Magnusson CEO

REDUCE. RE-USE. REFILL. REPEAT. FORGO is the first and only powder to liquid hand wash delivered plastic-free. The packaging is both recyclable and compostable. It ships waterless, with the powder refills arriving in a thin paper envelope. 99% natural ingredients. Just add water. This is a sustainable subscription-based personal care service that uses less materials to revolutionise the personal care category. And it’s all in the name - FORGO meaning ‘to do without’, and this is what underpins the brand. This method of subtraction started with the ingredients, and then the 80-90% water that exists in most products in the toiletries industry.

TRENDSPOTTING

The mission. To future-proof personal care. Creating products that are better for the earth and the body. Sustainability and simplicity - but without compromise. FORGO. Challenging formulas as we know it today. www.forgo.se

TURN YOUR PITS INTO AN ECO ALLY

NFC ZIPPER-PULLER Digital product identifiers can come in different shapes, such as labels, patches or accessories, and with different technologies depending on their purpose. Zipper-puller with an NFC-inlay can store product information for both sorters/recyclers and end consumers: Material and chemical substances are permanently stored to enable a reverse supply chain of sorting and recycling, while end consumers get access to information related to s ustainability or brand services.

We believe that Wellow is the deodorant Mother Nature would use! Our secret? We use plants as our primary ingredient, including in our biodegradable packaging. Each stick contains no plastic, comes with clean ingredients and carbon neutral shipping, and fights odor to keep you smelling fresh. Help replace the billions of pounds of plastic wasted annually. www.bewellow.com

OCEAN LOUNGE CHAIR Originally designed in 1955 by Jørgen & Nanna Ditzel, the Ocean Collection is a reimagined table-andchair collection created using ocean waste plastic. It combines innovative solutions and timeless design to prevent pollution of the world’s oceans.

TIGER OF SWEDEN Barbette Tote Bag Tote bag in We aRe SpinDye® recycled polyester with leather trim. www.tigerofsweden.com Read more about SpinDye® on page 48

Made using recycled fishing nets and recycled hard plastic – each Ocean Lounge chair saves 1.2kg of plastic waste from the planet! The collection is also designed for disassembly, meaning that each component can be easily separated for recycling and then re-used in new products. The collection honours the UN Sustainable Development Goals of protecting “Life Below Water” (SDGs 14), “Responsible Consumption and Production” (SDGs 12) and “Partnership for the Goals” (SDGs 17).

TRENDSPOTTING

LANIUS - FAIR & ORGANIC FASHION It all began in 1999 with an idea: Fashion making under fair conditions, creating beauty with a good feeling. LANIUS follows this vision to this day and combines sustainable materials with sophisticated design. In Cologne and Zurich, the fair fashion brand LANIUS is available in four own multi-brand stores. You can discover and purchase the LANIUS collection in selected stores throughout Europe. Simply use the LANIUS Storefinder to search for the store near you. www.lanius.com

SNEAK PEEK INTO THE WORK OF OUR SALES DEPARTMENT

INTERVIEW

SUPPORTING CLIENTS TO MAKE MORE SUSTAINABLE CHOICES We see sales as the key crossroads between our work and our customers’ needs. This is why sustainability is a key element of our sales strategy and of our colleague’s work supporting the sales department. Ginny has been part of the Nilorn family for the past ten years and she is now Business Development Manager in the UK. Alexander has worked with us for nine years and supports our work as Sales Executive at the Borås headquarters.

“WE’RE NOT PREACHING TO YOU SOMETHING THAT WE’RE NOT DOING OURSELVES”

OFFERING SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS TO CUSTOMERS

A key role of the sales team is to provide consultation and guidance to clients regarding what product options they have, including which sustainable alternatives exist. “Our goal is to create value for our clients by finding together the best alternatives and solutions that are available. When products are presented to customers, it is important to communicate which alternatives exist, what the best solutions available are for the client and why these are the best ones. Being able to provide clients with fact-based solutions so that they can make informed decisions is key”, affirms Alexander. More and more accreditations and certifications are required as laws

and standards are being evaluated. Our clients need to feel confident that we can support their own sustainable journeys and the changes and growth that they, in turn, are promising to their customers. The last year has seen a huge growth in interest in sustainability as the Covid pandemic has focused peoples’ minds on the planet as a whole and how we need to change our thinking. It is both exciting and reassuring that the health of the planet is at the forefront of our industry’s priorities.

INTERVIEW

Both Alexander and Ginny concur: Sustainability issues are an increasing part of the daily work of our sales team. Being in charge of building relationships with clients and developing a close collaboration with them, Alexander knows our client base very well. He points out that “sustainability is now sometimes even a must, the rule more than the exception, given that more and more clients request more sustainable products.” Ginny sees the same trends on the other side of the North Sea too - as all of her customers pay attention to the sustainability of the products that they buy from Nilorn. Our holistic approach to sustainability is now so important, not just for our own conscience, but so we, as a group and as individuals, are able to openly explore options with our clients. Being as sustainable as one can be, with current information and opinions, is not just a case of the right way and the wrong way anymore. It is our responsibility to be open and visible. We need to ensure that we are realistic with our offers and discussions and do not fall into the ‘pipe dream’ trap that we all see so readily advertised, but work within the parameters of our industry.

This is an opportunity to collaborate both with clients and suppliers alike. According to Alexander, it goes beyond making sustainable materials available. “It is about long-term collaboration and developing effective production processes together, as well as having a common vision and storytelling.” As clients become more interested in how Nilorn works sustainably internally, we have to keep communicating our sustainability strategy and internal efforts so that clients understand that we share their sustainability vision. Ginny sees the sales team having a key role in this by explaining to customers that the company is walking the talk: “We’re not preaching to you something that we’re not doing ourselves”, she says.

HOW WE OVERCOME THE CHALLENGES OF THIS JOURNEY As any company following a more sustainable path, we encounter some challenges along the way. While price differences between traditional and sustainable products are no longer as high, this may still be an issue for some clients. Additionally, there

“PROVIDING THIS KNOWLEDGE IS KEY IN SUPPORTING CUSTOMERS TO CHANGE THEIR BEHAVIOUR TOWARDS A MORE SUSTAINABLE ONE”

is still a scarcity of suppliers of bio-based and recycled materials, pushing us to select a certain range of sustainable products that are available. In such cases, the sales team must explain to clients how sustainability can create value to them and their brand, while ensuring availability of sustainable alternatives across borders, when possible.

INTERVIEW

Furthermore, some clients are concerned about the quality and the look of recycled products, which may vary from traditional ones. “The sales team then has to guide the client through the alternatives available to meet the client’s needs as well as possible, while explaining why Nilorn has chosen a certain range of sustainable alternatives over others. Creating this tolerance and providing this knowledge is key in supporting customers to change their behaviour towards a more sustainable one”, affirms Alexander. Sustainable products don’t have to look ‘rough and ready’ and ‘hand-made’ anymore. The available materials and techniques have enabled us to work with our clients to achieve the looks they want to promote their brands. Recycled leather, OEKO-TEX® from our collection REG SMYTH®

THE WAY FORWARD Looking forward, we will keep our eyes open, to continue testing and innovating for more sustainable alternatives. We also need to deepen the relationships with our business partners to find common goals and to ensure that we are all doing things right. Collaborating with suppliers and clients is fundamental to succeed in our mission and make sure that all the actors in the value chain act responsibly and transparently. Our sales team, including Ginny and Alexander, are excited about the work to come. “We should be building on today’s

momentum. Sustainable business is not only critical to the planet, it will also remain a key building block of the global agenda. We have to become creative and listen attentively to what customers are saying, what they’re needing and what they want. This then has to be fed back to ensure that our business keeps growing in the right direction”. As sustainability becomes an increasingly important factor for our sales, we look forward to continuing to train our co-workers within the sales team, to equip them with the sustainability tools that are necessary to allow our clients to make more sustainable decisions.

INTERVIEW

TENCEL™ TENCEL™ is the trademarked name for lyocell from fibre producer, Lenzing. It’s is the most common lyocell fibre today and is made from cellulose originating primarily from rapidly growing eucalyptus wood and beechwood.

INTERVIEW

SET THE TABLE FOR THE FUTURE

TENCEL™ is produced using a closed loop system, meaning substances are reused in the production process. The trees used as feedstock are harvested from sustainably managed farms and are certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) or the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC). Careful monitoring of inputs and outputs as well as water and chemical use in production ensures minimal impact on the environment. All this makes TENCEL™ a viable and more sustainable alternative to cotton, viscose and other synthetics. Woven ribbon in Tencel™ from our collection RESPEKT 4

It’s important for us to use the most sustainable materials on the market, and to keep up to date with constantly emerging innovations. Below you can find descriptions of some of the materials currently found in our portfolio and discover their environmental properties.

GLASSINE Glassine is a smooth, semi-translucent paper, similar to tracing paper but more soft. It is produced from wood fibers and only available in virgin and not in recycled quality. The paper is a preferred material in seed, food, medical, and collector applications. The smooth glossy appearance is the result of a purely mechanical process called supercalendering where the paper is highly polished by pressing it between metal cylinders or rollers. Envelope - Welcome to the world of Nilorn - in Glassine paper

GREEN PE I’m greenTM Bio-PE is a bio-based plastic derived from sugarcane grown on the east coast of Brazil. It’s a PE based on the renewable resource sugar cane instead of fossil oil, and the molecular structure of bio-based PE is similar to that of fossil-based PE.

PE = polyethylene

Read more about Bonsucro: www.bonsucro.com

INTERVIEW

Bonsucro certifies the chain of custody and is an international non-profit organization that establishes exclusive social and environmental principles and criteria for the production of sugarcane and its byproducts. Green PE is fully recyclable together with conventional PE and can be marked with the “I’m green” seal.

Small bag in Green PE from our collection RESPEKT 4

PIÑATEX® Piñatex® is an innovative new material made from waste pineapple leaf fibre which reaches the requirements for use within the fashion & upholstery industries. It consists of 80% Pineapple leaf fibres, 20% PLA fibres. From initial sampling to developing a viable supply chain, the Piñatex® journey is inspired by the principles of a Circular Economy and Cradle-to-Cradle values. The use of pineapple leaf fibre, an agricultural waste product, provides the opportunity to build a scalable commercial industry for developing farming communities, with minimal environmental impact. After processing the leaves to separate the long fibres, the farmers also end up with biomass that can be used as fertilizer back in the pineapple fields. Patch in Piñatex® from our collection RISE

DURASENSE® DuraSense® is a blend of wood fibres and plastic material, offering a light and flexible solution with the mouldability of plastic, yet the sustainable benefits of wood.

CORK WITH TENCEL™

The wood is fully traceable and sourced from sustainable sources.

Cork with Tencel backing is a step towards using bio-based materials without compromise.

DuraSense® consists of a wood-fiber reinforced polymer matrix. It contains a high amount of renewable fibrous material, giving it several notable advantages, such as: – Reduced carbon emissions (compared to conventional polymers). – Excellent tensile and flexural properties – Frequently reduced cycle time in injection moulding applications. – Unique tactile feeling and natural appearance.

Even though cork fabrics are usually promoted as sustainable, typically they only consist of 10% cork, while roughly 90% is a polyester backing with a layer of plastic, a chemical glue and often a harmful finish on top. The cork Tencel™ fabric is different – the highest quality cork is handapplied under fair conditions by Portuguese experts to a natural backing of OEKO-TEX® certified 100% Tencel™ fabric. Only waterbased glue and a water-based finishing is used to guarantee long-lasting quality and durability as well as a fully sustainable approach. It is washable and dirt repellent.

Seal in Durasense® from our collection Erie

Zipper puller and patch from our collection Erie

PAPTIC® TRINGA FSC™ Forging a category of its own, Paptic® is a sustainable alternative to plastic materials in packaging. It combines the best features of existing materials, such as high print quality like paper, durability like non-wovens and the versatility of textiles. Paptic® Tringa is made using wood fibres from controlled and sustainably managed forests such as FSC™. Products made of Paptic® Tringa are light and durable, enhancing shipping, storing and handling efficiency. It can be recycled with regular cardboard or paper, depending on local region. Envelope in Paptic® Tringa FSC™ from our collection DAAM

Possibilities with RFID

• Intelligent mirrors • Smart fitting rooms • Self-checkout

NILORN WORLDWIDE

In addition to the barcode the RFID label have a unique identity.

• Less overproduction and overstock • Traceability across entire supply chain • Efficient inbound & outbound processes • Increase stock accuracy

As a sustainable option, we offer labels with PET-free RFID-tags

• Efficient stocktaking • Increase stock accuracy • Reduce out-of-stock

• EAS – Anti-theft • Reduce shrinkage

ADDING VALUE TO YOUR BRAND Nilorn offer complete, creative and tailor-made concepts in the areas of branding,

design, product development and logistic solutions. Attention to sustainability aspects is part of our standards and policies, and applies to our products, our production and supply chain and in our interaction with each other. We strengthen your image and your products via sustainable solutions in labels, packaging and accessories. Read more at www.nilorn.com

Setagaya-ku

NILORN WORLDWIDE all lights on

NILORN JAPAN Japan is one of the fashion leaders of the world, with many well-known Japanese fashion designers

making their mark on the global fashion industry. Their works can be found in many fashion shows all

over the world, and their unique, innovative design is the index for many designers in other countries. BY APPLE CHAN & KAZUKO IMAGUCHI

In 2017, Nilorn began targeting this promising market and started to participate in exhibitions to increase brand exposure in the market. Incredibly positive feedback was received after these exhibitions – particularly on our Scandinavian design - and this was great encouragement for us to continue our plan in this market. However, the issue we started to face was barriers in communication, even though our products and designs raised the interests of many potential clients, we were unable to communicate further in the same language. In this situation we were recommended to meet with JETRO (Japan External Trade Organization) and applied the service for Human Resource consultation. After a few meetings, we were perfectly matched

with Ms. Kazuko Imaguchi and started our business journey in April 2019, establishing Nilorn sales representative office, Japan Ms. Kazuko Imaguchi was born in Osaka, and worked in a very famous, large scale Fashion Company (which is ranking number 4 trading conglomerate) from being a freshman out of University working her way up to General Manager, with a total experience of 35 years. She matched factories in Asia and Europe with Japanese apparel companies and therefore has trust and wide-ranging contacts with major Japanese apparel and fashion related companies. After leaving the Fashion Company, she started her own business and established the Japan

representative office of a Chinese apparel factory, building sales from 0 to 20 million US in just 3 years. All of this is good experience which will enhance developing our business path in the fashion industry of Japan - a great opportunity for us both.

our design concepts. Everything was running very efficiently and smoothly, with impressive responses. After a month, our first business with a prospect client was confirmed and soon more enquiries and developments were received.

To position ourselves well for visiting our potential fashion clients, we selected IKEJIRI OSHASHI, Setagaya-ku to be the location of the Nilorn Japan representative office, which is just the next metro stop to Shibuya – one of Tokyo’s busiest and most crowded fashion areas. Many famous fashion brands and their offices can be found close to this area. This is advantageous for us to easily meet with our customers and likewise, very convenient for customers to visit our office and showroom anytime. Though KIEJIRI OSHASHI is only one station away from Shibuya, the area has a reserved appearance, quiet and comfortable, and should not be underestimated. Many cultural destinations can be found here such as a library, art museum, coffee shop with pop-up gallery and many parks, making for a nice environment.

In fact, there is very keen competition among local competitors - during the early stages we found this was due to loyal relationships and trust with local Japanese production. Therefore, we started to work with our strength - Scandinavian Design - to attract the type of client who are more design-oriented. We initially targeted small but potentially unique brands, as they normally rely on a supplier with design capabilities, and e-commence brands where products with innovative design are in high demand. We had a very interesting and challenging project in which we worked with a fashion agency who mainly manage clothing and accessories products with various Japanese celebrities. This meant high expectation on design, quality and material usage on the products we supplied, with time limitations from development to delivery. On completion of this project, the customer was satisfied with our service and gave positive comments on the products - and the great news that they promised to continue working with us

With good preparation, and the availability of office space with suitable facilities ready, we immediately started the operation by arranging meetings with our potential clients and presenting

Ms. Kazuko Imaguchi

in the coming season. It is very important to give credit to our Nilorn team, our sales representative in Japan – Ms. Kazuko Imaguchi, our product development executive in Hong Kong – Ms. Toby Yuen and our design team in Europe. It’s thanks to their contributions that we’ve seen this success. Since 2020, the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic on people around the world is immeasurable and has brought about unprecedented challenges. The pandemic has resulted in significant global and economic disruption. The apparel industry was also hit by a tremor in Japan, as were other countries, and it is said some national brands that have been around since the 1980s overlooked changes in the market and were forced to struggle. Perhaps a way of survival for them is a smallscale, high-priced apparel company. These types of brands are beginning to dominate all over Japan, with an overwhelming sense of value that overturns the price and quality of existing clothing. Alongside this, Japanese people’s awareness of the environment has changed significantly, the rate of dependence on plastic bags at supermarkets has decreased significantly, and confidence that they can do it has caused further

environmentally friendly behaviour, even in apparel. The conversion to eco-friendly materials has finally begun. From now on, the change to truly sustainable materials is imminent. At the exhibition of Fashion World Tokyo in March, we could see increased footfall on the exhibition stands promoting sustainable concepts. The transition to sustainable materials has finally arrived, both as a trend and in practice. We have been proposing materials centered on sustainability, and so this is a great opportunity for us. On the other hand, as a business practice, strong ties with conventional domestic affiliated suppliers have become the norm, especially in major apparel and SPA, it still takes time for each supplier to commercialise sustainable materials in Japan, so this is the good timing for NILORN to expand the business in this area. In the long run, with more concrete business experience with Japanese clients, we are looking for opportunities to work with large scale SPA and brand retailers, as well as new brands coming from overseas. We hope to one day expand our Japan Sales office with a full team, to provide better and higher quality service which is our ultimate goal.

FOR THE MOST ‘DÉLICIE UX’ UPPER BODY. — AND MUCH MORE — 20

2021 TO FIGHT - TO DRINK - TO PUNCH - TO GET A PUNCH IN THE FACE - TO BOX TO EAT FRIES - TO LOVE - TO HATE - TO MOVE - TO SWING HARD - TO DANCE TO WIN - TO LOOSE - TO JUMP THE ROPE - TO SLEEP TO BE FASTER - TO KNOCK OUT - TO GET KNOCKED OUT - TO PEE - TO SWEAT - TO BE A CHAMPION TO BE - OR NOT TO BE - TO DO WHATEVER, WHENEVER, WHEREVER.

ARTICLE

FESTIVAL CAMPING REIMAGINED WITH HEART & CIRCULARITY AT ITS CORE

WORDS BY SASKIA GOETEYN

ARTICLE

BY LOVE TOMORROW & ECOSO

Summer is near… Imagine - you’re enjoying camping at a festival with your friends, hassle free whilst caring for Mother Nature.

Camp2Camp has got you covered! This game-changing collaboration between Love Tomorrow, the sustainability platform born out of Tomorrowland, and Ecoso, a social enterprise, brings festival camping to a whole new level. Camp2Camp was initially created to bring a solution to the ever-increasing amount of camping gear being left behind at festival campsites.

In the spirit of “value, not waste”, equipment left behind at the campsite is collected, cleaned and repaired. Then, through re-use, it’s proudly given a second life, and a third one, … throughout future festival seasons. But it’s not only party people who can enjoy the wonders of this circular camping gear. Youth movements, special youth care and other social organisations can rent this gear at

very low prices too. This way, people with limited financial resources are able to enjoy a camping holiday, and kids without equipment of their own are able to attend summer camp and create lasting memories! All of the Camp2Camp activities from collection to its rental service - happen in partnership with a social workplace for vulnerable youth. Learning and orientation trajectories are organised, so that the youngsters can discover what they are passionate about and what gives them energy.

CAMP2CAMP - A SWEET SPOT WHERE CAMPER CONVENIENCE MEETS SOCIAL AND ECOLOGICAL VALUE: ARTICLE

Campers can travel light and care-free Vulnerable youngsters find purpose again, through a rewarding social economy approach The environmental impact of festival camping is drastically reduced

Camp2Camp was grouped into a new not-for-profit organisation (The Value Factory) at the start of 2020 to strengthen and broaden its activities. The organisation is now looking into the development of its own sustainable camping materials. Since Covid-19 interrupted the event sector, Camp2Camp is exploring opportunities for pop-up campsites in rural areas. The first trials were held in the summer of 2021. When are YOU going Camp2Camp?

Joris Beckers, Founder Love Tomorrow: “We’ve been leveraging the Tomorrowland festival & Dreamville campsite as breeding ground to immerse visitors into fun sustainable experiences that help shift behaviour. We are keen to inspire circular initiatives through an open innovation approach. We gladly team up with partners & suppliers who share our Commitment to Love Tomorrow through sustainable innovation, just like Nilorn does.” www.lovetomorrow.com Koen De Bock, Managing Director Ecoso: “With Camp2Camp we make positive circles and blend the talents from our youngsters and camping gear into a perfect cocktail.” www.ecoso.be

Discover the Beauty of a Swiss Night

Book a free sleep consultation BICO Showroom Zürich Pelikanstrasse 11 8001 Zürich +41 44 501 01 09 www.zuerich.bico.ch

FROM TRASH TO

TREASURE REMAKING FASHION FOR THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY INTERVIEW

BY ROWAN DRURY INTERVIEW WITH ANNA LIDSTRÖM & JENNIFER LARSSON

Fashion and clothing have historically and culturally been a fundamental part of identity, expression and simultaneously of individualism and tribalism. Clothes not only allow us to express ourselves, but they are also a basic human necessity. However, according to the UN the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, partly due to overconsumption. It also contributes to resource use beyond the earth’s capacity as well as a mounting waste problem. So, how do we keep on dressing up while reducing our impact on the planet? We spoke to two designers, Anna Lidström and Jennifer Larsson, who are helping bring sustainable and circular fashion to the mainstream.

ARTICLE

“IT’S NOT ABOUT GRAND TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS, BUT ABOUT USING THE CREATIVE PROCESS TO SHIFT PEOPLE’S BEHAVIOUR AND SHOW THE POSSIBILITIES AND BEAUTY IN REUSE.”

INTERVIEW

Since she was a teenager, Anna Lidström has been fascinated by discarded garments and the challenge of making something out of nothing. She always loved vintage and secondhand clothes, but the magic of what she could create from the dustbin sparked her curiosity as a budding designer. She began to work with what she describes as a “remake” approach, repurposing existing apparel, such as surplus tarpaulins and fashion deadstock into new designs. This red thread continued throughout her design education. However, it wasn’t until she graduated and a sustainable design studio hired her that she made the connection between her process and the positive consequences for the planet. “When I came to that studio, I felt at home somehow because I could use the skills I’d developed in transforming materials, but I also saw them in an environmental context”, she explains.

Fast forward to the present, and that same intersection between design and sustainability remains at the heart of Another Studio, the creative company Anna now runs with the help of her friend and colleague, Jennifer Larsson. It is also the foundation of her research at the Swedish School of Textiles in Borås, Sweden. Jennifer has a more traditional background in fashion design, but after working on a one-off project with Anna, she was fascinated by her approach. The two connected, and as Jennifer describes it, it became one of those star-aligning moments where they both saw the benefit in working together. For this resourceful pair, design and sustainability go hand-inhand, with the former leading the way. Actively designing out unsustainable resource use in fashion is where their strength lies. “As a designer, you have the power to shift people’s mindsets”, muses Anna, “it’s not about grand

technical solutions, but about using the creative process to shift people’s behaviour and show the possibilities and beauty in reuse.”

TAKING REMAKE TO THE HIGH STREET The fashion world has tended to regard the remake field as a cute hobby at best and an unscalable sideline at worst. But when Swedish high-street fashion brand (Gina Tricot) approached Anna and Jennifer, this was set to change. At the time, the brand was collaborating with secondhand apparel supplier, Beyond Retro, and had begun integrating

hand-picked vintage pieces into their collections. But they wanted to take this used/new fusion a stage further, so the Another Studio X Gina Tricot collaboration was born. Sourcing from Beyond Retro’s bounty of used clothes, Anna and Jennifer took men’s jackets and shirts as the raw material for their unique capsule collection. They selected similar shaped and sized garments to adapt into modern, easy-to-style womenswear pieces. The result is an unmistakably unified collection in form and construction, yet each item is a one-off, distinctive in its fabric, colour and motif. The production process wasn’t without its challenges though. To this end, Anna explains, “in a way we are reversing the traditional design process by starting with a finished garment, then disassembling it and reinventing it”. Jennifer elaborates on the issues they faced, “commercial fashion brands have a very streamlined

INTERVIEW

way of working, and their processes are all in place and understood by the employees in the production chain”. She continues, “…and then we show up with a completely different way of working and confuse everyone!” So, to make their method work at scale, the duo found they had to devise a whole new language to describe their techniques and to brief the production team. For Anna, developing a vocabulary to explain these new ways of working is essential for circular and sustainable fashion to grow and is part of her ongoing research. The approach Anna and Jennifer have fostered demonstrates the untapped potential of what is considered trash. Instead of relying on the production of new fabrics, with their intense chemical and water use and damaging emissions, their way of working challenges the system and exploits what already exists without further exploiting the planet.

WHAT IS THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY? The circular economy seeks to break the established linear consumption model where we take resources, make products and then disposed of them – takemake-waste. Instead, a circular approach aims to reduce resource use, design out waste and extend product life through repair and repurpose.

INTERVIEW

MAKING FASHION CIRCULAR Fast fashion, where clothes are cheap and have a short lifespan, has exacerbated the industry’s environmental impact. Clothing purchase continues to soar in higher-income countries and the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion found that consumers keep their clothes for half the time they did 15 years ago. The Ellen Macarthur Foundation, a think tank for the circular economy, has set out four principles for tackling the fashion industry’s impact and moving to a circular and sustainable approach. 1. Phase out substances of concern and microfibre release, 2. Transform the way clothes are designed, sold, and used to break free from their increasingly disposable nature, 3. Radically improve recycling by transforming clothing design, collection, and reprocessing, 4. Make effective use of resources and move to renewable inputs.

21:2 CREATIVE LABELS AND BRANDING

latest design collections. Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level. We are always on the lookout for new materials and production techniques, whilst

continuing

fine-tune

the

interaction between design, production and logistics.

DESIGN COLLECTION

On the following pages, we present our

COLLECTION

DESIGN

DESIGN COLLECTION With warm, earthy tones, Erie Munsee creates a sustainable wardrobe built on simplicity and functionality. Key garments that are designed to last. Contemporary clothes in neutral colours and with a comfortable feel - free from seasonal concepts or trends.

Photo credits: Ellie Elien, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

Respekt is a highlight of our work to develop products with lower environmental impact. It shows the ongoing process to a more sustainable offer, from design to delivery. The RESPEKT concept features, e nvironmental finishings and various materials such as corozo, rayon and FSC paper as well as recycled materials. All articles comply with REACH regulations or meet higher ecological standards.

DESIGN COLLECTION Atelier Genes - A sustainable denim brand for both men and women with a cool, hip vibe. Atelier Genes works with the philosophy of keeping its jeans and denim products in a loop – whether that be re-using the garment in its original form or recycling the components. Worn by creative and modern spirits.

Photo credits: Polina Tankilevitch, Pexels

DESIGN COLLECTION

Photo credits: Iam Os, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

D’Arco is defined by Italian craftsmanship, elegance and innovation. Genuinely luxurious garments made using the finest fabrics and attention to detail. Investing in a piece from d’Arco is an investment in timeless quality and the highest standards of excellence. We have made it our mission to represent the best of Italian style and craftsmanship through high quality, luxurious garments.

Photo credits: Rafael Barros, Pexels

DESIGN COLLECTION

REG SMYTH remains true to its core values of great quality, craft and workmanship. A heritage and lifestyle brand producing clothing that is designed for a full-lifestyle wardrobe. Designed with longevity and local production in mind. The styles are influenced by vintage workwear. Rough looks are combined with refined details and patterns.

DESIGN COLLECTION Athena is a fitness and wellness sportswear brand for women, with a strong focus on wellbeing. Whether you’re in the gym, training outdoors or relaxing at home, your physical and mental wellbeing is key. Athena helps promote a healthy lifestyle and engages with a social following, surrounding you with positive vibes and the mental attitude to drive you towards your goals.

Photo credits: Davis Spencer, Unsplash

DESIGN COLLECTION

Comeback Nilorn’s collection ‘Comeback’ is a series of concepts, bringing circularity to the small parts of a garment - the garment trims. This time, the concept focuses on outdoor garments, however, the concept is applicable for other segments as well. The labels and trims are designed with the garments whole life cycle in mind – apart from carefully chosen materials and finishings , functionality and technology is added to enable transparency and a reverse supply chain.

DESIGN COLLECTION

Circular outdoor concept

Comeback is inspired by cradle-to-cradle design principles: 1.) Keep products and materials in use by choosing recycled and/or recyclable materials and finishes. 2.) Design out waste and pollution by keeping control of hazardous chemicals. 3.) Regenerate natural systems by choosing natural, decomposable materials derived from renewable resources.

Materials are broken down into two categories technical and biological materials:

Biological materials Biological materials are materials that come from renewable sources. They are natural materials like cotten, tencel or viscose. They can either be recycled or safely decom-pose into the natural environment (soil, water, etc.) without affecting it in a negative way, providing food for bacteria and microbiological life.

Technical materials Technical materials are materials originating from non-renewable resources. They are inorganic or synthetic materials manufactured by humans – such as nylon, polyester, plastics and metals – when optimally recycled they can be used many times over without any loss in quality, staying in a continuous cycle.

Cradle to Cradle Cradle to Cradle® is a school of thought, developed by German chemist and visionary Michael Braungart and American architect Bill McDonough, refining and developing the circular economy concept. This design philosophy considers all material involved in industrial and commercial processes to be nutrients, of which there are two main categories: technical and biological. The Cradle to Cradle framework focuses on design for effectiveness in terms of products with positive impact and reducing the negative impacts of commerce through efficiency.

CONSTRUCT FABRIC

CONSTRUCT FABRIC DESIGN GARMENT

FABRICATE YARN

DESIGN GARMENT

FABRICATE YARN

ASSEMBLE GARMENT

SEED & PLANT

CELLULOSIC FIBRE PRODUCTION

SYNTHETIC FIBRE PRODUCTION SELL & DISTRIBUTE REUSE RE-WEAR REPAIR

BLENDING & CARDING

REUSE RE-WEAR REPAIR USE

BIOLOGICAL CYCLE

COMPOST REMOVE IMPURITIES

MELTING & EXTRUDING

TECHNICAL CYCLE

COLLECTING & SORTING

MECHANICAL RECYCLING

REMOVE IMPURITIES MECHANICAL RECYCLING

CHEMICAL RECYCLING

Two material cycles in fashion in an ideal circular economy. This is a future vision and is happening at a small scale today

DISMANTLING

DESIGN COLLECTION

DISMANTLING

Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard Multi attribute and multi level certification that guides designers and manufacturers through a continual improvement process and looks at a product through five quality categories: Material health, material reutilization, renewable energy and carbon management, water stewardship and social fairness. A product receives an achievement level in each category: Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold or Platinum with the lowest achievement level representing the product’s overall mark.

ARTICLE

SUPREME COLORS LOW IMPACT - RADICAL TRANSPARENCY We aRe SpinDye (WRSD) is turning the world of colour dyeing on its head. This innovative Swedish company has developed a modern, sustainable method for colouring polyester fibers, paving the way for an alternative to the harmful practice of water dyeing. BY ROWAN DRURY

The global textile industry is accountable for intense water pollution and c. 24%* of a garments’ climate impact comes from a single step in the production process - the dyeing. It is therefore vital that the industry evolves and addresses these issues. WRSD does just that by offering the most sustainable polyester option in the fashion and apparel industry. So how do they do it? Firstly, their colouring process uses a reverse method where colour is added to the fibres before they are spun into yarn or made into fabric. This is a totally different approach to traditional dyeing, which happens towards the end of the production of fabric and uses excessive amounts of water. Secondly, the brand

works exclusively with recycled polyester, using discarded water bottles or clothing, meaning their production method is truly circular. Their process keeps waste, chemicals and water usage to an absolute minimum**, so we can produce products that have sustainability at the forefront. The performance of the fabrics contains excellent colourfastness that withstands sunlight much better than water-dyed fabrics. The WRSD colouration process is certified and fully transparent. They use 100% GRS certified recycled polyester and all KPIs are validated by a third party, RiSE, following the ISO standard 14040.

ARTICLE Photo credits: Ricardo Gomez Angel, Unsplash

SOME OF THE BENEFITS OF USING WRSD INCLUDE: 75% LESS WATER CONSUMPTION 90% LESS CHEMICAL USE 30% REDUCTION IN CO2 EMISSIONS 30% ENERGY REDUCTION 100% TRACEABLE 100% TRANSPARENCY 5/5 COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT 100% RECYCLED 49

WEARE SPINDYE®-CIRCULAR PRODUCTION CIRCULAR PRODUCTION

The colored polyester mass is extruded to colored fibers (filaments) Recycled polyester pellets (rPET) is mixed and melted with the color pigments.

The colored fibers are spun and texturized to yarn.

Color pigments. Each color has its own unique receipe.

ARTICLE The colored yarn is weaved or knitted to a variety of desired fabrics.

START HERE

We use wasted garments as raw material for closed loop/circular productions, and it is GRS-certified*. (*GRS- Global Recycled Standard)

The fabrics are sent to finishing: lamination, brushing, scoring, coating etc ALL DONE

The fabrics are assembled to the final product. When the garment is worned out - send it back to recycling. The circle is closed!

* The Outlook Report, Mistra Future Fashion ** The Key Performance Indicators (KPI) are compared to industrial dyeing method standards (wet dyeing) and are measured during the entire fabric production process – from raw material to ready-made fabrics. The numbers stated in this document are average from production 2017.