THE FASHION & DECORATING WORLD’S BEST-KEPT SECRET! CHOOSING RFID
Radio-frequency identification
CONSCIOUS MIND 2.0 Working from home
NILORN SHANGHAI INTERVIEW
Antje von Dewitz CEO, VAUDE
READY FOR HIKING
Apple powder comes from recycling of apple juice industrial wastes.
Apple skin �fake� leather contains 25% apple powder, 25% PU and 50% fabric (fabric: 80% cotton + 20% polyester).
Corozo is a material used made from Tagua palm nut, also known as vegetable ivory.
The nut is dried and then sliced and processed into Corozo material, used for buttons.
Corozo is naturally white with a fine marbled grain structure. It can be dyed; dying often brings out the grain. It is a natural, renewable and durable material.
Woven label with warp in OEKO-TEXÂŽ certified polyester and weft in linen.
ADDING VALUE TO YOUR BRAND Nilorn offer complete, creative and tailor-made concepts in the areas of branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Attention to sustainability aspects is part of our standards and policies, and applies to our products, our production and supply chain and in our interaction with each other. We strengthen your image and your products via sustainable solutions in labels, packaging and accessories. Read more at www.nilorn.com
CONTENTS NO. 1 2021
54
26 CONTENTS
7
WELCOME
THE FASHION & DECORATING WORLD’S BEST-KEPT SECRET!
10
NILORN SHANGHAI
CHOOSING RFID
Radio-frequency identification
INTERVIEW
Antje von Dewitz CEO, VAUDE
CONSCIOUS MIND 2.0
15
DENMARK´S NEWEST MEMBER
Interview with Bo Østergaard Jeppessen
33 21:1 DESIGN COLLECTIONS
NILORN WORLDWIDE
49
Nilorn Shanghai - The journey has just begun. COVER PHOTO
20
Photo Olof Händén
Illustration Damien Lynch
22
Cover Conqueror stonemarque
Body Amber Graphic 120g Print Stema Specialtryck AB, Borås, Sweden
CHOOSING RFID
Radio-frequency identification
53 THRIVE CONSCIOUS FASHION
54 TRENDSPOTTING Ready for Hiking
WORLD’S BEST KEPT SECRET London Design Library
E T
S
Product development
58 THE FASHION & DECORATING
diamond white 300 gr
Trycksak 3041 0234
PANTONE
Illuminating/Ultimate gray Color of the Year 2021
PAPER
ENMÄRK
CONSCIOUS MIND 2.0
Great focus on sustainabillity
Model Amanda Leemis
N VA
THE PIONEER
Dr Antje von Dewitz, CEO of outdoor outfitter VAUDE
READY FOR HIKING
Working from home
CERTIFIERAD ISO 9001 ISO 14001 Ledningssystem för kvalitet och miljö
Nr XXX
Our Branding & design magazine is produced with the greatest possible environmental consideration. It’s printed on Amber Graphic 120 g/m2 from Arctic paper. All standard Arctic Paper Munkedals products are FSC-certified.
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26
Dear Reader
FOLLOW US ON
www.nilorn.com @nilornworldwide @nilornworldwide @nilorn worldwide @nilorn worldwide
DIGITAL VERSION
Foto: Vegard Breie
Breathe in. Zoom out.
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HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel: +46 33 700 88 00 Fax:+46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel: +41 62 855 27 50 Fax: +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Plot 1361, 5th and 6th fl. Avenue 10 Mirpur DOHS Dhaka -1216 BANGLADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Kongensgade 31B 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel: +45 70 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +852 2 371 2218 Fax: +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com
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NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax: +49 2103 908 16 - 99 info@de.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN ITALY Via del Bramante 34 41012 Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com NILORN THE NETHERLANDS Fenka/SLuyter Logistics bv Blokmakerstraat 8 NL-9403 VD ASSEN THE NETHERLANDS Tel: +31 592 310 030 Mob: +31 6 50501020 jan-henk.hommes@nl.nilorn.com NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax:+92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com
NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 605, No.258, Chengjiaqiao Road Minhang District, Shanghai, CHINA Poastal Code 201103 Tel: +86-21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com NILORN TURKEY Baģlar Manhallesi 49 Sokak No: 50 K:3 Baģcilar/Istanbul TURKEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD Station Works Greens Mill Court Cononley N Yorks BD20 8FE UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44 1535 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN USA (EAST COAST) Box 365 Macungie, PA 18062 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 201 874 5515 keith.unger@us.nilorn.com NILORN USA LLC (WEST COAST) 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 888-315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com
DEAR READER
W
elcome to the first edition of Nilorn’s Branding
In this edition, we aim to inspire and inform you with a
& Design magazine for 2021. Due to high
range of articles about individuals and companies in our
demand, the printed version has made a return
industry. There’s an interview with the CEO of the outdoor
- but in a new format – fewer pages and a condensed size.
brand ‘Vaude’, Dr Antje von Dewitz, who explains the
A digital version is also available - enjoy!
fantastic journey their brand has taken and passionately discusses her interest in sustainability. Over the past year,
2020 was a unique year to say the least. A new virus,
many people have discovered the beauty of hiking and
COVID-19, quickly spread across the world, with countries
enjoying an outdoor life - we collate some key products in
and businesses handling the situation differently. We
our trendspotting feature ‘Ready for hiking’.
learned many new words and phrases such as ‘furlough’ and ‘social distancing’. There was slight relief during the summer but a few months later we all faced a scary situation once again as numbers of cases increased through autumn and winter. However, with new challenges
“WE MUST ALL ADAPT TO NEW CHANGES AND COVID-19 HAS FORCED THE WHOLE INDUSTRY
we learned to have more compassion and found new ways
TO TAKE A BIG JUMP IN THE TREND TOWARDS
to communicate. With travel restricted, carbon emissions
GOING BOTH DIGITAL AND SUSTAINABLE.”
hope that with a vaccine on the horizon we will be able to Nilorn’s latest design collections are also showcased,
resume normality – a new normal.
demonstrating the latest materials and techniques in At the start of March 2020, I took over as CEO
fashion branding that we offer.
of Nilörngruppen at short notice, but as I’d been
Østergaard Jeppessen, a new sales representative who
We get to know Bo
CFO
joined our team in Nilorn Denmark. He gives his view on
for 12 years, I already
the Danish market and digitalisation and how this helps
knew the organisation
service our clients. Nilorn Shanghai is also highlighted and
well. It has been an
we discuss the journey it has made together with General
intensive period since
Manager Vivian Liao.
Nilörngruppen’s
then,
and
it
is
by
no means over. We
The future is uncertain but very exciting too! I believe it is
must all adapt to new
both the strong and sustainability focused brands who will
changes and COVID-19
come out on top. Nilorn is ready to support your brand
has forced the whole
and highlight its strengths through supplying value-added
industry
products and customised solutions.
to
WELCOME
reduced worldwide. Looking towards the future, we now
take
a
big jump in the trend towards
going
both
I look forward to a different 2021.
digital and sustainable. This is definitely the case for Nilorn, from focusing on RFID and sequential QR codes to working hard on a sustainable structure.
Krister Magnusson CEO
Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands by using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of ca 60 M EUR0. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Spain, Hong Kong, India, China, Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, Holland, Tunisia and USA.
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ARTICLE
10
MEET DENMARK’S NEWEST MEMBER ARTICLE & PHOTOS BY DAMIEN LYNCH
where we treat both new and old colleagues
ARTICLE
At Nilorn, there is a long-standing tradition
like family members. We’re always happy to see one another, to assist and help each other, and to exchange knowledge where and whenever needed.
So, in the search for a new team member the process can be both long and daunting. One of the many reasons why Nilorn, and in this case Nilorn Denmark, were delighted when paths crossed with Bo Østergaard Jeppessen, who has worked for our Danish office as Sales Manager since February 2020.
Branding&Design met up with Bo to find out just who this Danish Salesman is and what makes him tick.
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“PARTNERSHIP IS THE KEYWORD WHEN IT Bo lives just outside Herning, in the middle of Jutland Denmark. An avid hunter and fisher who thoroughly enjoys spending his time in nature soaking up its energy. If Bo can’t be found outside enjoying nature, there is a very good chance you will find him at the local gym, where he keeps in shape, a few times each week.
ARTICLE
Bo has been working in the textile industry for most of his career, starting out in the early 1990s as the very first sales representative, at the then newly started label company called A-Tex, where he remained as sales manager for several years. After this time, Bo wanted to spread his wings and experience new challenges in other areas of the fashion industry. It so happens, geographically speaking, that Bo had grown up and still lives in the region which is one of the best-known areas of Denmark for its fashion and textile industry. He quickly landed a job locally with a prestigious fabric producer, where his focus was mainly on developing export sales in Benelux and the United Kingdom. After a number of years at the company, Bo’s next move, while still in the fashion industry, was in the private label sector - working together with a large Danish garment manufacturer, supplying nationally and internationally renowned Brands with garments made of jersey. Finally, he returned to A-Tex as a partner and managing director of an A-Tex sister company. Working in diverse areas of the fashion industry has given Bo a unique and in-depth knowledge of the textile industry’s supply chain, including all of its possibilities, and the challenges that go along with it. Bo’s knowledge and many years of experience made him the perfect candidate for a sales manager position at Nilorn.
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COMES TO DEVELOPING BOTH NEW AND EXISTING ACCOUNTS”
4 QUESTIONS WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES YOU SEE IN THE DANISH MARKET? Denmark is a small country with a high number of large to medium-sized fashion brand companies. This, of course, opens a lot of business opportunities for Nilorn Denmark. But the Danish market is also saturated by a large number of smaller competitors. This causes a highly price sensitive market, which makes it even more important for us to be visible, innovative, and progressive - both maintaining our existing customers, and helping win new customer accounts.
For me, partnership is the keyword when it comes to developing both new and existing accounts with clients - with or without a global pandemic among us. Nilorn has all the right tools, be it for a real face-toface client meeting (of course with social distancing guidelines being taking into account). Or a video meeting is also easy-peasy, thanks to the Nilorn designers who developed product sample envelopes with concept stories and mood boards, and best of all, the item specifications. These can be sent to the client in advance, allowing the client to feel the qualities of the items, during the virtual meeting. We can easily be a strong partner for any Brand owners that are looking for a professional, innovative and dedicated, high performance trimmings partner.
HOW DO YOU VIEW NILORN’S SUSTAINABILITY WORK? The sustainable universe of Nilorn is ‘state of the art’. Nilorn is among the market leaders - our in-house competences, product development and control certifications are one of the finest when it comes to sustainability, in my opinion. I have no doubt that the increasing environmental demands which the world faces, will be among the biggest challenges the fashion industry faces in the years to come. I feel that Nilorn is well prepared to assist and meet this challenge, together with our customers.
INTERVIEW
HOW DO YOU SEE CO-OPERATIONS WITH CLIENTS DURING THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC ?
and who is delivering a ‘no problem’ solution. For me personally, the most important task is to create more knowledge and spread the word to my network and the wider Danish textile industry, about all the excellent opportunities you get by being a customer of Nilorn. Another very important task is to put pressure on the Danish market, by always being present, progressive, and of course, trustworthy with our customers.
IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT TASK FACING YOU AND NILORN? Well, above all, I think the most important task Nilorn is faced with is our commitment and determination to become the best trimmings and Branding company worldwide. This we can do by always giving our customers 110% and then some more, when it comes to customer solutions, communication and service tasks. At the end of the day, all that the customer wants is a supplier that they can trust and rely on,
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Shanghai NILORN WORLDWIDE
NILORN WORLDWIDE all lights on
15
NILORN SHANGHAI THE JOURNEY HAS JUST BEGUN BY VIVIAN LIAO
Shanghai, as one of the world’s metropolises, is well known for the integration of Chinese and Western culture, and for the great views along The Bund. 52 buildings line the narrow shoreline of the Huangpu River offering a living exhibition of Gothic, Baroque, Roman, Classic Revival and Renaissance architecture, as well as combinations of Chinese and Western styles. Many famous scenic spots, such as Nanjing Road, are visited by tourists from all over the world. Located on the Yangtze River Delta, Shanghai is an important port with convenient transportation, adjoining Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces, where many garment manufacturers are based and cater for European markets, which makes Nilorn Shanghai (NSH) ideally situated. NSH was established in 2010, as a small regional office with only 4 employees. From those early days, it has now become a company comprising 25 members of staff, consisting of 14 in the office and 11 in the warehouse. We have 9 full-time Customer Service empolyees working with internal offices, external suppliers, and customers. The warehouse is just a 30 minute drive away from office, with a total area of 2000m2, supplying trims for hundreds of customers under 90 different brands, and delivering up to 500 orders every day. Our Shanghai office moved to a new address at the end of 2019, with more space and new visions. It was decided that it still needed to be located close to the previous office, for its convenient transport links. It’s only 20 minutes away from a high-speed railway station and Hongqiao airport, which enables quick responses for customer’s requests, and makes it easy to meet with nearby customers too. Credit: Schumacher - Shanghai Peacock Wallpaper
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QUICK FACTS 1. Total Sq meter size – office 400m2 + warehouse 2200m2 2. No of Employees – 25 (from 13 different provinces) 3. Employee welfare at the centre of every decision made 4. Amazing location – just 20 mins from HQ airport and railway station, and 10mins from the metro station
We value our customers highly and improvement of our staff’s skills and team spirits are an important part in our goal to provide the best service level. Company trips to other local cities are arranged on a yearly basis. It helps our team to relax and take a break from their daily work, inspires great passion for working proactively, and also proves to be a good way of team building. However, due to the Covid-19 situation, the trips have been paused during 2020. Staff training, such as service improvement and communication skills are also held in order to enhance our ability to better serve various customers, and work smoothly with different parties within Nilorn Group and external partners. 2020 – UNEXPECTED CHALLENGES NSH is quite new but has been fully trusted and supported by the management team and other Nilorn offices, which offered help to boost business in NSH during last years. From 2010 to 2019, we saw tremendous growth, with RMB 70 million turnover in 2019. However, the path for growth is not always smooth. Like many other Chinese people, we were shocked and panicked during 2020’s Chinese New Year when learning the news of Wuhan’s lockdown due to an outbreak of COVID-19. Spring 2020 seemed like the longest season, due to such unknown, unexpected and serious disease.
The Chinese government took a rapid response and launched a resolute battle to prevent and control its spread, which provided the possibility of getting back to normal life for Chinese people and enabled NSH to return to work after a short time. However, the pandemic outbreak later spread across the world and became a global health threat that imposed a great challenge to both NSH and other companies. It is definitely not over, but we believe and hope that a vaccine will help to see an end to the COVID-19 disease in 2021, and we already hope to see the positive effects during the spring. THE FUTURE Our journey has just begun and our growth will continue. There are a lot of positive developments happening within the group, including an advanced web platform, first-class service, a professional product development team, a high focus on sustainability with the goal to be ‘the best in class’, a very skilled design team and a strong sales team throughout the world. We are convinced that China will continue to be an important country for the textile industry and NSH will continue to contribute towards Nilorn’s positive development.
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DĂŠcouvrez nos collections sur cyrillus.fr et en boutique.
CONSCIOUS MIND 2.0 There is great focus on sustainability and protecting the environment, and at Nilorn we not only offer sustainable products to our customers, but we aim to promote it through our actions too. With the Covid-19 pandemic forcing huge numbers of people across the world to work from home in 2020 - here we’ve collated some other great companies offering sustainable products and services that help support the working from home lifestyle we’ve adapted to.
WORK FROM HOME DESK
CONSCIOUS MIND
The WFH Desk is designed to simplify working from home, inspired by our own designers needs in these new times.
1. LOZI
Its simple peg system gives you plenty of flexibility, allowing you to adjust the height between 5 different settings - from seating to standing. As it is on wheels, it can be easily moved around the house, giving you even more use of your space. For more informaton visit www.lozidesigns.com
PELA CLOSES THE LOOP ON PLASTIC WASTE WITH NEW RESPONSIBILITY ECONOMY™
2. PELA CASE
Pela’s concept is simple. They make everyday products without everyday waste. The company began by creating a more sustainable way to produce phone cases by making them biobased and compostable. Through their development, they took it one step further, taking back their used products to be upcycled into new Pela products with Pela 360. To learn more about Pela’s sustainable products visit www.pela.earth
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3. LEADING FAIR, VEGAN AND SUSTAINABLE FASHION STORE
THRIVE STORE
Call it eco fashion, slow fashion, ethical fashion, or fair fashion. At THRIVE it’s just common sense; living wages for workers, innovative, toxic-free, sustainable, and vegan materials, and quality over quantity. Read more about Thrive Store on page 53
BIN IT? NO WAY! At a Repair Café almost everything is repaired that can be easily transported, such as lamps, electrical and electronic devices (coffee makers, vacuum cleaners, video and audio equipment), clothing and small furniture.
4. REPAIR CAFE
CONSCIOUS MIND
But at this type of repair location, it is not just about repairing itself. It is also about contact between people transferring technical skills and working together to get the job done. So don’t be surprised if the repairman hands you a screwdriver and tells you what to do! Find your closest REPAIR CAFÉ or maybe start a repair café, read more at www.repaircafe.org
SIMPLY PACK, WASH AND REUSE. Food Wraps, a reusable and natural alternative to plastic packaging. Simply pack, wash and reuse. Made with organic cotton, beeswax and jojoba oil. 100% recyclable and degradable. Plastic-free, of course!
THE CLASSIC GAME 4 IN A ROW! This is a strategic game that involves getting four in a row horizontally, vertically or diagonally. FSC-certified. Designtorget presents a new series of products with Scandinavian and sustainable design.
5. DESIGNTORGET
Find more sustainable products at www.designtorget.se
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Color of the Year 2021 Illuminating PANTONE 13-0647 TPG Ultimate Gray PANTONE 17-5104 TPG
ara HighSoft
www.ara-shoes.de
© VAUDE photo by Nicole Maskus-Trippel
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the pioneer INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINA WALTER
INTERVIEW
Dr Antje von Dewitz, CEO of outdoor outfitter VAUDE, pursues an uncompromising sustainability-oriented business strategy, proving that you can be both a successful business enterprise and promote harmony between people and nature. The family-run company has set global standards and precedents with its sustainable business practices, environmentallyfriendly products and commitment to fair working conditions. It has also received a number of awards for its efforts, such as the European Business Award (EBA) in the category of Environmental & Corporate Sustainability in May 2017, which endorses VAUDE as one of the 11 most environmentally-friendly and sustainable companies in Europe. After graduating from University with a degree in Economics and Cultural Studies, Antje von Dewitz started out in product management at VAUDE, developing the ‘Packs ‘n’ Bags’ product segment, before moving into corporate communications. Between 2002 and 2005 she completed a PhD programme and worked at the University of Hohenheim’s Endowed Chair of Entrepreneurship. In 2009 she took over from her father, Albrecht von Dewitz, as VAUDE’s CEO - the man who laid the foundations for the company’s commitment to ecological and social responsibility.
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ANTJE, YOUR VISION IS TO HAVE A BUSINESS THAT ISN’T JUST SUCCESSFUL, BUT ALSO OPERATES FAIRLY AND IS ECOLOGICALLY FRIENDLY. WHY IS THAT?
INTERVIEW
Because I love nature. I’m a real outdoors person - and I hate how we’re polluting our environment. My four children are another reason why I became involved in environmental causes. I really want to make a difference and protect our natural environment so that my children can grow up in a beautiful world that stays intact. It’s always in the back of my mind that, one day, they’re going to ask me and my generation what we did to prevent climate change and stop the exploitation of our planet’s natural resources. Their generation is already doing just that in the ‘Fridays for Future’ demonstrations. It’s motivated me to think hard about what else I can do to make a difference. I’ve stopped eating meat, for example.
We believe that entrepreneurship is associated with an obligation to contribute to the common good. So we always take on responsibility for our employees and partners, as well as responsibility for the environment and future generations. As a sustainability-focused company we set ourselves long-term, sustainable, ecological, social and business objectives. I hate it when people treat sustainability like a special kind of business activity. Something they do because everybody else is doing it. I think every business owner has the duty to uphold sustainable practices, and not to shift the responsibility to the countries of origin in the global supply chain. There’s something wrong with our economic system if it allows any single company to evade that responsibility.
COMPETITION IS TOUGH IN THE OUTDOOR MARKET. IS SUSTAINABILITY A WAY TO STRENGTHEN THE VAUDE BRAND AND SET YOU APART FROM OTHER MARKET PLAYERS?
When I took over as VAUDE’s CEO around ten years ago, it dawned on me that if we’re going to be sustainable, we have to either do it properly or not at all. We have to fully embrace fair and ecological practices, “I THINK EVERY BUSINESS OWNER HAS THE DUTY and communicate this to the outside world through our brand. And we TO UPHOLD SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES, AND NOT TO have to be absolutely committed SHIFT THE RESPONSIBILITY TO THE COUNTRIES OF to the consistent application of our sustainability principles. We use all ORIGIN IN THE GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAIN.” the marketing tools in our repertoire for the transparent communication of sustainability-related issues across WHAT ARE THE KEY ASPECTS OF YOUR all our channels. Not only does this approach tell CORPORATE CULTURE? WHAT ARE YOUR consumers just how serious we are, it also raises CORE VALUES? public awareness for sustainability. As a result we have been able to establish a very credible and Our intrinsic aspiration as a company is to operate in responsible brand image. a way that doesn’t ruin the planet. We’re part of the textiles industry, and this industry is responsible for some of our biggest global challenges. We share that responsibility. But we don’t want to be part of the problem - we want to be part of the solution.
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“WE BUILT A SUCCESSFUL MARKET POSITION ON THE BASIS OF OUR CREDIBILITY AND AUTHENTICITY”
HOW DOES VAUDE COMBINE A SUCCESSFUL MARKET POSITION WITH A BUSINESS PHILOSOPHY FOUNDED ON FAIRNESS AND ECO-FRIENDLINESS?
INTERVIEW
We built a successful market position on the basis of our credibility and authenticity. Today, I’d say that ecological practices and fair trade are part of the sustainability strategy, which makes them a professional management discipline. The expertise we’ve built over the years in the areas of chemicals, energy and supply chain management, and also in synthetic fibres and natural materials, isn’t the only thing that counts. Our methodological approach and the way we handle conflicting interests and complex issues are also important. Another key factor is our strong corporate culture, which is based on values such as trust and partnership. It helps us to engage with many different people and overcome even major challenges, despite only being a medium-sized enterprise.
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE? Sustainability is associated with many dilemmas and conflicting interests. One of our biggest challenges is to reconcile our real costs with the prices that can be realised in the market. We’re pulling out all the stops on that one. Based on a decade of experience we know that we can’t pass on all the costs of sustainability – i.e. higher prices for eco-friendly materials – to consumers because the majority of people aren’t willing to pay them. So we accept that our margins are going to be lower. Sustainability tends to be one of the additional factors in a purchase decision. If the product is good, trendy, the price is right and it’s sustainable, people will buy it. We could manufacture our products at lower cost, achieve better margins and reduce retail prices if we dispensed with sustainability. In other words, things would be a bit easier for us. But sustainability is what makes us different.
© VAUDE photo by Nicole Maskus-Trippel
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“CONSUMERS HAVE ENORMOUS POWER TO PERSUADE COMPANIES TO MANUFACTURE THEIR PRODUCTS IN A MORE SUSTAINABLE WAY – THROUGH THEIR CRITICAL REVIEWS, CONSCIOUS CHOICES AND SUSTAINABLE BUYING DECISIONS”
INTERVIEW
DO YOU THINK THIS IS A CONCEPT THAT OTHER BUSINESSES WILL ADOPT? We love showing people that not only does sustainability work, it’s also a key success driver. We’ve seen just how much innovation potential is released by sustainability. In fact, it has helped us to make significant progress in many areas. We like to share our pioneering ideas and our experience. We’ve had many enquiries from other enterprises, but also from universities, schools, consumers, organisations and authorities that are keen to find out more about our company, our philosophy and our sustainability strategy, and to engage with us. This is the reason why we decided to set up the VAUDE Sustainability Academy, and we’ll soon be using it as a way to pass on our competence and experience.
WHAT ROLE DO CONSUMERS PLAY IN ALL THIS? Consumers have enormous power to persuade companies to manufacture their products in a more sustainable way – through their critical reviews, conscious choices and sustainable buying decisions. According to retail surveys and feedback, demand for sustainable products is increasing all the time. More and more people are shopping in a more socially conscious and ecological way because it
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makes them feel better about themselves. But this ecological awareness isn’t always reflected in their buying decisions. Consumers also have a big influence on a product’s real ecological footprint because some 30 per cent of that footprint is accounted for in the productuse phase. We encourage our customers to use a product for as long as possible and provide them with comprehensive information on how to do that: from advice on how to wash our products in an ecofriendly way to an in-house repair workshop and our iRentit outdoor equipment rental service.
WHAT KIND OF A WORLD WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE IN 2040? If I could choose, I’d like to live in a world where all products are ecologically produced under fair conditions, where companies assume end-to-end responsibility for their supply chains and where consumers have developed an awareness for the real costs of manufacturing products and make conscious choices rather than opting for the lowest prices. www.vaude.com
www.mayerline.com
21: 1 DESIGN COLLECTION
On the following pages, we present our
DESIGN COLLECTION
CREATIVE LABELS AND BRANDING
latest design collections. Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level. We are always on the lookout for new materials and production techniques, whilst
continuing
to
fine-tune
the
interaction between design, production and logistics.
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DESIGN COLLECTION With colours taken from the sea and its surroundings, Adrien Foray sets the mood of its style and aesthetic. Dreaming of a life wandering along a pier on the Scandinavian coast, has inspired Adrien Foray‘s well-dressed and ‚slightly preppy‘ design.
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Photo credits: Max Hermansson, Unsplash
DESIGN COLLECTION
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Photo credits: dlkr life, Unsplash
DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
Whether riding your bike through cities, forests or landscapes, you always need the right kit. The kit that will make your journey as smooth as possible. With a sustainable approach this apparel is kind to you as well as the environment. Be bold. Be conscious. With Cracoe.
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Photo credits: Antoine Peltier, Unsplash
DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
Sustainable streetwear. The legacy of Mirai bears the mark of three pioneers. Three designers that fused their passion for streetwear with sustainability, inspired by Japanese street culture. It is a technical brand to provide the performance you need and is bold in its style to allow you the opportunity to tell the world who you are.
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DESIGN COLLECTION The future is bright. A style with futuristic tones for the contemporary woman who has set out to make her mark on the world. Metallics and grey tones make for an armour for the ones on a quest to seize life, evolve as an individual and leave a legacy. Liquid silver and bronze with touches of shiny black makes for a stylish and elegant silhouette for the ones who like to be seen, noticed and remembered. Make your own path through time, in style.
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Photo credits: Peter Olexa, Unsplash
DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION Supernatural Clothing - Eco Fashion. The styles are inspired by outdoor life, presenting a rustic elegance with relaxed fits. The branding concept features a wide range of eco-friendly materials: Patches are made from vegetable tanned leather, Piñatex® or washable cork whilst trims are recycled metal and corozo. All paper packaging is FSC™ quality or recycled cotton waste printed with eco-friendly ink.
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Photo credits: Asoggetti, Unsplash
DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION The Nuchoni Studios brand stands for a modern aesthetic - with innovative thinking, brilliant quality and excellent craftsmanship. These are high-end luxury clothes for women and men with a sporty twist. Exciting details breathe new life into a traditional look, inspiring us for the season ahead. Heavy-duty materials, a tactile feeling, innovative combinations of textures and layered details.
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Photo credits: Dlkr life, Unsplash
DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
ASH Denim Raw - A creation for the bold. A creation for all genders that still lets the wearer portray their own unique individuality and personality. Equal parts of rebel, futurism and a raw edge have been combined to create something that sets it apart from the rest.
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CHOOSING RFID RADIO FREQUENCY IDENTIFICATION
RFID is short for Radio Frequency Identification. Radio waves are used to identify and count RFID-tags attached to products/garments, either with RFID-handhelds or fixed RFID-readers. Each RFID-tag has a unique identity ‘EPC’ (Electronic Product Code) which, for retail and apparel, is encoded according to the global standard SGTIN-96.
We offer RFID labels in the form of adhesive labels, hangtags and textile labels. These require a solution of software and hardware, which we deliver in collaboration with partners specialised in each area. Nilorn ensures that it is just as easy to order RFID labels as it is to order barcode labels.
DEEP INTO
As the name implies, the GTIN (Global Trade Item Number) – think EAN/UPC-barcode – is part of this unique code so the RFID-tags can be used both by the brand itself in stores, warehouses etc. but also by any partnership businesses that may also be using RFID in their logistics chain.
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SOME FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Q - IS COLOUR, SIZE ETC. STORED IN THE CHIP? A - No, only a unique EPC (Electronic Product Code), including the GS1 EAN/UPC and a serial number, is encoded in the small memory of the chip. All product information is stored in systems, just like for EAN/ UPC-barcodes.
Q - CAN I READ THE RFID-LABEL WITH MY MOBILE PHONE? A - RFID-labels for logistics purposes work within UHF (Ultra High Frequency) and cannot be read by a mobile phone, a separate UHF-reader is needed. Modern mobile phones support NFC (Near Field Communication) within HF (High F requency) with a reading range up to a few cm. Nilorn can supply NFC-labels as well, but it’s not used for the same purpose as UHF RFID-labels.
DEEP INTO
Q - WE PLAN TO REPLACE OUR EXISTING B ARCODE LABEL WITH AN RFID-LABEL. WHAT MORE INFORMATION DO WE NEED TO P ROVIDE? A - No more information is needed. We take care of the serialization of the GTIN (GS1 EAN/UPC) according to an agreed serialization plan where a unique EPC (Electronic Product Code) is e ncoded in each label following the global standard SGTIN-96.
Q - I HEARD THE FREQUENCIES FOR RFID IS NOT THE SAME IN ALL COUNTRIES, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? A - These regulations are for the RFID-readers and other hardware and can d iffer by region and country. However, the RFID-labels operate in the full global range, 860 to 960MHz, so can be used worldwide.
Martin Arvidsson - Business Area Manager at Nilorn
in 860MHz-960MHz. Some gates and solutions can be upgraded, but some must be fully replaced.
Q - IS THERE A BATTERY IN THE RFID-LABELS AND IF SO, HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? A - There is no battery, its passive RFID-technology. The antenna in the label picks up e nergy from the RFID-reader, which the chip in the label uses to send back its data.
BARCODE TAGS
RFID TAGS
Q - WHAT WASHING TEMPERATURE CAN SEW-IN RFID-LABELS WITHSTAND? A - The RFID-chip in our standard sew-in RFID-labels for logistics purposes cannot withstand any washes. The label will, in most cases, be removed by the consumer before wearing due to its stiffness.
Q - WILL OUR EXISTING SECURITY GATES WORK WITH RFID-LABELS? A - No, the security gates and EAS-system are based on AM (58KHz) or RF (8.2MHz) where UHF RFID operates
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Same code
Unique code
Optical scanner
Radio signals
Barcode must be visible
Labels don’t need to be visible
Reading range – 30-50cm
Reading range – several metres
Read one at a time
Reads many at once
Create value with RFID
SUPPLY CHAIN
INVENTORY
• Efficient inbound & outbound processes
• Efficient stocktaking
• Increase stock accuracy
• Increase stock accuracy • Reduce out-of-stock
SECURITY
SUSTAINABILITY & TRACEABILITY
IN-STORE EXPERIENCE
• EAS – Anti-theft
• Less overproduction and overstock
• Intelligent mirrors
• Reduce shrinkage
• Traceability across entire supply chain
• Smart fitting rooms • Self-checkout
DEEP INTO
GLOSSARY Simplified, for retail and apparel RFID-usage and applications GTIN – Global Trade Item Number
UHF – Ultra High Frequency
ECO RFID
level of informat-ion used on regular
be read from several meters. Not to be
As a sustainable choice, we
Think EAN/UPC-barcodes, the lowest barcode labels.
Global range 860-960 MHz. Tags can
mixed up with NFC which can be read
offer labels using PET-free ECO
by modern mobile phones.
RFID-tags from Stora Enso.
The lowest level used for RFID- labels
EAS – Electronic Article Surveillance
• Traditional RFID structure has
the EAN/UPC and a serial number.
• AM: 58 KHz
SGTIN – Serialized GTIN
where each has a unique ID based on
EPC – Electronic Product Code
The unique code stored in the EPC
Security gates etc for anti-theft.
6 layers + release liner.
• RF: 8.2 MHz
• ECO RFID structure uses only
• RFID: 860-960 MHz
3 layers + release liner.
memory of the RFID-label, according to global standard SGTIN-96. GS1 – Global Standard 1
A non-profit global organisation.
They issue and control the EAN/UPCbarcode series to ensure they are unique worldwide.
NFC – Near Field Communication 13.56 MHz. Only reads up to a
Clean & green manufacturing
Low carbon footprint
No plastic substrate/ 100% paper-based
Recyclable
few cm. Used for access control,
contactless payments etc. Not for logistical purposes.
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Scandinavian essentials and equipment for all your outdoor adventures – so you can focus on getting out there.
Shop at www.outnorth.se
in Gothenburg, Sweden, and it has an online store too.
CONSCIOUS FASHION
THRIVE - CONSCIOUS FASHION
THRIVE is Scandinavia’s leading fair, vegan and sustainable fashion store, located
THRIVE not only believes in the power of fashion as a way to express oneself, but also recognize it as a powerful tool for influence. They want to use this influence to change the fashion industry into something better, far from its current state. As a small business, COVID-19 has definitely provided THRIVE with new challenges. They’ve seen a drastic drop in visitors in their physical store, which normally is their biggest revenue. Therefore, they’ve been directing their efforts into improving their e-commerce platform, thrivestore.se, which is an omnichannel experience. This means that everything you find in the webshop, you can also find in-store. This provides a seamless customer experience whether you are shopping via your phone, laptop, or in the physical store, THRIVE explains. As a small business, THRIVE notes that they cannot compete with the bigger sites that offer free shipping and free returns on everything. Therefore, they are working hard to find new creative ways to communicate their message, with limited means. THRIVE hopes, as everyone navigates towards this new normal COVID-19 is forcing upon us, that this experience will spark a stronger sense of community in us all. Hopefully, it will inspire consumers to be more mindful about their shopping habits and what businesses they want to support. The brands that THRIVE work with all aim towards changing the fashion industry on a structural level for the better, THRIVE explains. These brands lead by example and show that there’s a way to make fashion that does good to our planet, the people, and the animals. THRIVE strongly believes that what we buy impacts the world. By choosing eco-friendly and ethically made fashion, they believe we can change the industry and make sustainable fashion the new normal!
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READY FOR HIKING
Photo credits: © Vaude
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TRENDSPOTTING
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1. ORTOVOX - TRAVERSE 30 2. URBERG - TIPI TENT 3. DEVOLD - TINDEN SPACER SKIRT 4. DEVOLD - SVALBARD SWEATER 5. SCHÖFFEL JACKET GAIOLE 6. JACK WOLFSKIN - FORCE STRIKER TEXAPORE 7. URBERG - NORDDAL HIKING PANTS 8. VAUDE - HKG CORE MID STX 9. URBERG - CLASSIC MULTI PLIER 10. JACK WOLFSKIN - OVERLAND II PANTS 11. FAYETTECHILL - LIVINGSTON 12. URBERG - ROGEN POWER STOVE 13. DEVOLD - EXPEDITION MAN 3/4 LONG JOHNS 14. MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT - TORRIDON NEUTRON CASPIAN - HILLWALKING JACKET
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THE FASHION & DESIGN WORLD’S BEST-KEPT SECRET The Design Library´s 15,000-square-foot loft is home to seven million fabrics and textiles from around the world.
INTERVIEW WITH PETER KOEPKE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK MAHANEY
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INSPIRATION TRIP
BEFORE WORKING AS A DESIGN CONSULTANT, AND SUBSEQUENTLY BECOMING THE OWNER OF THE DESIGN LIBRARY IN 2002, YOU TRADED IN SOUTH AMERICAN ART AND ARTIFACTS. FROM MY RESEARCH YOU SEEMED TO BE A LITTLE LIKE INDIANA JONES, TRAVELLING TO REMOTE VILLAGES AND VISITING OBSCURE TRIBES... Yes, but not exactly Indiana Jones. I was deeply involved with the pottery and textiles of the Upper Amazon of Peru. All the material was 20th century, mostly made by women for their own family and village use. I personally knew most of the artists.
WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO TAKE ON YOUR ROLE AT THE LIBRARY? I really wanted to get married and have a family and I knew it wouldn’t work to be in a canoe, south of the equator half the year. I was introduced to Susan Meller, the founder of the Design Library. Susan needed help with the company. I saw a cool business with great potential that works with studio artists and designers. The shift from museum and collector business to the more commercial textile design business was fairly easy for me. Textile designers have an ongoing need for artwork to produce their products.
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“SINCE THE PANDEMIC WE HAVE BEEN OFFERING SPECIAL ACCESS WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF THE DESIGN LIBRARY - HOW DOES IT WORK, AND CAN ANYONE ACCESS ITS CATALOGUE OF PATTERNS?
PRIVILEGES TO KOSMOS™.”
The Design Library, New York and London, is not open to the public. We exist as a resource for professional creatives and meet our clients by appointment. The Design Library is the ‘first idea’ source for hundreds of fashion and home textile brands. The Library provides access to curated collections of surface patterns. Companies use these ideas for their future product development. Often the designers use the pattern as a starting point and change it to make it their own. But many use the patterns exactly as they are. In this world of fast development, it is much easier to choose a successful pattern from history than create a new one out of the air. No need to reinvent the wheel.
HOW MANY DESIGNS DOES THE LIBRARY HAVE IN TOTAL, AND WHERE IN THE WORLD DO THEY ORIGINATE FROM? The Design Library has about 7 million unique designs. These come from every continent and many different countries from East to West, North to South.
HOW FAR BACK IN HISTORY DOES THE LIBRARY EXPAND? The oldest large collection we have is Oberkampf, the first commercial printer in France. These date from approx. 1760 to 1780.
ARE THE PATTERNS FROM ANONYMOUS DESIGNERS, OR ARE THERE ANY FAMOUS DESIGNER NAMES TO BE FOUND AT THE LIBRARY? 99% are from anonymous studio artists. We often know the name of the studio or the company they created for, but seldom know the name of the individual artist. Some of the most important studio collections we have are Bianchini-Ferier, Ducharne, Staron, Claude Vergely, Abraham, Spadacini and Taroni.
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WITH YOUR LIBRARIES BOTH IN NEW YORK AND LONDON, LIVING IN THE AGE OF AN EPIDEMIC SUCH AS WE ARE IN 2020, ARE THERE VIRTUAL OR OTHER ALTERNATIVES TO ACCESSING THE LIBRARY? Yes. We are giving virtual presentations every day via Facetime, Skype, Zoom, etc. For several years we have offered Kosmos™, our online collection of 20,000 designs as a subscription for our clients. They get 24/7 access to this database and immediate downloads of high-res files when they check out designs. The designs then disappear from the Kosmos™ database for the length of the license. Since the pandemic we have been offering special access privileges to Kosmos™. Interested designers should apply on https://design-library.com/kosmossatellite and they will be contacted with details. And, as of now, our offices in London and New York are open with social distancing protocols in place.
YOU ALSO WROTE A BOOK CALLED ‘PATTERNS: INSIDE THE DESIGN LIBRARY’ (WHICH WE LOVE). CAN YOU EXPLAIN OR GIVE ANY PRACTICAL TIPS ON HOW BEST TO NAVIGATE THROUGH THE MILLIONS OF DESIGNS YOU HAVE ARCHIVED? Everyone has their own approach. Most clients give us some images of the looks they want. We are very good at pulling together an array of designs to choose from. Other designers come with a completely open mind and just look, almost randomly, until they find some designs to start their creative process
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE ERA OF PATTERN DESIGN? That is a tough question. I like the Fauvist designs, beginning of modernism in the early decade of the 20th century. Just pre-art deco really. And I like Oberkampf from the late 1700s. They are very old, but look chic and modern too.
LASTLY, IN YOUR OPINION WHAT ARE THE UPCOMING PATTERN TRENDS FOR FASHION AND INTERIOR? One thing about the Design Library is we don’t get involved with trend. This is really another business. We feel we have every possibility any designer may wish for. Also, we receive privileged information from many important brands that we never would share, even as a trend prediction.
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