Branding & Design Magazine 2023 1

VANBRUUN

DISCOVER THE EXCLUSIVE ASSORTMENT OF ENGAGEMENT RINGS, WEDDING RINGS, FINE JEWELRY, AND CERTIFIED DIAMONDS ON VANBRUUN.COM

WELCOME Dear Reader

CONSCIOUS MIND Re-imagining material possibilities

THE NEXT STEP IN BIOBASED LABELLING Nilorn’s product range using Tencel™ lyocell

WATER AID

Protecting water, one step at a time

NILORN WORLDWIDE Bally Labels becomes part of Nilorn group

NILORN:CONNECT

Adding information to your brand

INTERVIEW

Beatrice Kristoffersen - Group CSR Manager at Nilorn

23:1 DESIGN COLLECTIONS

Product development Biobased - Recycled - Vegan

WE MEET AGAIN

Three fairs that brought us together last year EOG Nilorn joining The European Outdoor Group

VISION IN PROGRESS

The Nilorn roadmap to preferred materials

Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands by using branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of ca 90 M EUR0. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, Portugal, Spain, Hong Kong, India, China, Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan, USA and Italy. In addition, there are partner companies in Holland, Tunisia and USA.

WELCOME DEAR READER

Welcome to this latest edition of our Branding & Design Magazine. We are happy to share our highlights about collaborations, knowledge sharing, and how we guide our clients towards the best digital solutions, materials and products.

Many things had to change during the pandemic and some things will never go back to how they were before. One of those things was becoming more digital, and Nilorn has taken a leap in digitalisation over the last 2.5 years. For example, now we prioritise digital meetings over travelling around the world. This has created an opportunity to share more and “be closer” throughout the 18 countries where we are located, while reducing our footprint from flying.

In this edition, you can also read about Nilorn: Connect, our digital platform for customers. A digital twin of each physical product allows brands to collect and share extended and unique information about materials, producers, end of life and more. At a time when companies have no choice but to

genuinely work with sustainability if they are to be attractive and competitive in the long run, this kind of transparency and traceability is a must.

LAST 2.5 YEARS.”

Our Materials Team has been working on a simplified way for our customers to choose the best materials, and the result is our Preferred Materials Index (PMI). Read more about the index, which uses circularity as a basis and materials are categorised into different easy-to-understand levels.

We have a challenging year in front of us, but that always creates an environment for opportunities! I hope you will enjoy some minutes with our team.

Krister Magnusson CEO

“NILORN HAS TAKEN A LEAP IN DIGITALISATION OVER THE

HEADQUARTERS

NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB

Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 7 00 88 88 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com

SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS

NILÖRN AB

Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel: +46 33 7 00 88 00 info@nilorn.com

BALLY LABELS AG

Schachenstrasse 24 5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel: +4 1 62 855 27 50 info@bally.nilorn.com

NILORN BANGLADESH LTD Plot 1361, 5th and 6th fl. Avenue 10 Mirpur DOHS Dhaka -1216 BANGLADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 info@bd.nilorn.com

NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com

NILORN DENMARK A/S Kongensgade 31B 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel: +45 7 0 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com

NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +85 2 2 371 2218 info@hk.nilorn.com

NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 info@de.nilorn.com

NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD 71/1 First Floor, Industrial Area Najafgarh Road Shivaji Marg New Delhi - 110015 INDIA Tel. +91 11 47093583/47091003 info@in.nilorn.com

NILORN ITALY

Via Enrico Fermi 40 41012 – Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com

NILORN JAPAN 9th floor GranDuo IKEJIRI Bldg. 2-32-9 IKEJIRI, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 154-0001 JAPAN Tel: +81 3 64455 5290 info@jp.nilorn.com

NILORN THE NETHERLANDS Werfstraat 2 9712 VN Groningen THE NETHERLANDS Tel: +31 592 310 030 info@nl.nilorn.com

NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +9 2 21 349 92151 info@pk.nilorn.com

NILORN PORTUGAL –INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +3 51 22 411 95 80 info@pt.nilorn.com

NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 605, No.258, Chengjiaqiao Road Minhang District, Shanghai 201103 CHINA Tel: +86 21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com

NILORN SPAIN Plaça Catalunya No. 1, oficina 442 08002 Barcelona SPAIN Tel: +34 93 545 1188 info@es.nilorn.com

NILORN TURKEY Baģlar Manhallesi 49 Sokak No: 50 K:3 Baģcilar/Istanbul TURKEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 info@tr.nilorn.com

NILORN UK LTD Station Works Greens Mill Court Cononley N Yorks BD20 8FE UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44 15 35 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com

NILORN USA (EAST COAST) Box 365 Macungie, PA 18062 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 201 874 5515 info@us.nilorn.com

NILORN USA LLC (WEST COAST) 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 888 315 18 75 info@us.nilorn.com

RECYCLED EGGSHELLS MAKE CRACKING SUSTAINABLE WALL TILES

The tiles are handmade at Nature Squared’s production facilities in the Philippines, where skilled craftspeople select and clean the best organic white eggshells from local bakeries and kitchens, as well as ‘waste from waste’ eggshell from Nature Squared’s own factory’s eggshell inlay atelier where fragments are meticulously applied to surfaces. The eggshells designed for CArrelé are crushed into different sizes, from sand to 3-mm fragments. Natural dyes are added to achieve appealing natural tones before the composite is toasted.

CArrelé comes in lightweight square, rectangular and triangular shapes, and in four styles that highlight Nature Squared’s technical expertise. Toasted ‘s earthy tones range from cream to dark toast brown, while the colours of Natural Dye are achieved with indigo, chlorophyllin and madder. Hybrid‘s hues come from a combination of natural dying and toasting, and there is also a 3D hand-moulded tile. The tiles are recyclable. www.naturesquared.com

HAVSGLAS (SEA GLASS)

Sea glass are sharp shards of glass that have been ground until they are silky smooth by waves, sand and time. How the shards ended up in the sea or what they once were, we will never know. Fascinated by nature’s ability to turn trash into treasure, Maria Meissner started Berg Havsglas Sweden in 2012. The glass is collected along Scania’s beaches and is completely untreated, the sea provides the design.

Ten percent of the jewelry’s price is donated to projects that work for a cleaner Baltic Sea. www.havsglas.se

DISCOVER THE UNTOLD STORIES OF COTTON AT FASHION FOR GOOD MUSEUM IN AMSTERDAM

Cotton is perhaps the world’s most wellknown fabric, with a tangled, global history of more than 400 years. Many stories behind cotton are less known. These untold, sometimes unexpected perspectives have been collected and brought together in Knowing Cotton Otherwise, the new exhibition by the Fashion for Good Museum.

Centred on collectivity and community, local artists have been invited to present work that connects and intersects with different themes relating to the story of cotton. By mixing styles and stories, Knowing Cotton Otherwise creates a multifaceted experience, inviting you to reflect, question, play and wonder.

www.fashionforgood.com

Photo credit: Lorenzo de Wit

THE NEXT STEP IN BIOBASED LABELLING

NILORN’S PRODUCT RANGE USING TENCEL™ LYOCELL

BY CHRISTINA HEINES

Nilorn has been busy developing a range of fully wood-based products, which we were proud to launch in 2022. By using TENCEL™ Lyocell fibres, we ensure a traceable and responsible process from raw material to finished product.

The new range includes brand labels, care labels, tapes and strings. They are developed using TENCEL™ Lyocell wood-based cellulose fibres produced by Lenzing. It is a plastic-free alternative to fossil-based polyester and a more versatile option than products made from cotton. Today there are several wood-based fibres on the market, so why did we choose TENCEL™ Lyocell? Let’s look at raw materials: Lyocell is made from wood, and by using TENCEL™ branded fibres, we can guarantee that they come

from sustainably managed, certified forests where more trees are planted for every tree cut down.

In the production process, the manufacturer measures and monitors inputs and outputs to ensure a minimal environmental footprint. For example, water, solvents, and other inputs are carefully selected and then treated to mitigate harm at the output stage. They use a closed-loop system in production, where up to 99% of the solvents and processed water are recovered and

reused. Water use is minimised, and compared to cotton fibre production, lyocell may require 10-20 times less water.

In the use phase of TENCEL™ Lyocell, there are several benefits, not least in the tactility of the material, which is soft and smooth to the touch. Because the yarn produced is much finer than cotton, the woven ribbon has a smoother and more even surface, making it more versatile for different labelling applications.

At the end of life, products made from TENCEL™ Lyocell and blends of TENCEL™ Lyocell & cotton can be recycled back to new cellulose fibres in a chemical recycling process. This technology is not widely available today but will become more common in the future.

Our fully wood-based labelling range represents a milestone in our product offering and provides a solution for pioneering biobased brands, as well as those who want to move in that direction. Nilorn products using TENCEL™ Lyocell are available in Europe and Asia and produced in China and Portugal.

• • • • • • •

CHRISTINA HEINES Material and Innovation Specialist

TENCEL™ LYOCELL SUSTAINABILITY CERTIFICATIONS

Biodegradable/compostable (certified by TÜV AUSTRIA as biodegradable and compostable under industrial, home, soil and marine conditions)

EU Ecolabel

FSC and PEFC certified

NILORNS PRODUCT OFFER MADE OF TENCEL™ LYOCELL

50/50 - TENCEL™ Lyocell/cotton blend: Cotton warp and TENCEL™ Lyocell weft, needle loom - fully woven label.

50/50 - TENCEL™ Lyocell/cotton blend: Cotton warp and TENCEL™ Lyocell weft, needle loom - printed label (screen print)

100 - Printed label using 100% TENCEL™ Lyocell (screen print or rotary print).

String or ribbon for hang tag using 100% TENCEL™ Lyocell

“BIOBASED LABELS ARE A GREAT FIT FOR GARMENTS THAT ARE ALREADY MADE FROM BIOBASED FABRIC.”

PROTECTING WATER, ONE STEP AT A TIME

ON THE MARCH FOR WATER WITH WATERAID

Reducing water use in our processes and improving water access and quality is part of Nilorn’s sustainability ambition. That’s why we partner with WaterAid and their March for Water campaign across our company.

Textile production requires resources on a large scale that are not always visible in the final product. This includes not only raw materials, but the energy, chemicals and water used in production. Nilorn has an ambition to drive improvements in water use. We know how crucial water is, not only in the production of textiles but also in safeguarding health, sanitation and hygiene in countries with significant textiles production.

We collaborate with the non-profit organisation WaterAid to drive large-scale water improvements and to run smaller local projects using the charity’s network and knowledge in textile-producing countries.

We support WaterAid by being a “Vänföretag” (Friend Company), as well as participating in their March for Water (MFW) campaign.

MARCH FOR WATER

Clean water is a basic human right. It should be a normal part of daily life for everyone, everywhere – but it isn’t. 771 million people live without clean water, and 1-in-10 people globally have to walk for hours to collect water – often long distances. This burden usually falls on women and children, who can’t start the day before walking to a water source, leaving less time for education, work or taking care of the family. The water they collect is often dirty, causing sickness, and a lack of water significantly impacts infant mortality worldwide.

Millions of women and children walk for water, but they aren’t getting anywhere. WaterAid’s March for Water Campaign aims to change that. This global movement of people walking in solidarity with the world’s poorest communities aims to increase awareness of the issue and ensure that everyone gets access to clean water. Corporations, individuals and other organisations can contribute through donations, raising awareness, fundraising and/ or participating in a step-counter activity.

We were inspired by participating in March for Water last year and are now preparing for this year’s March. WaterAid provides an app to log our steps and physical activities so we can challenge ourselves and compete internally between departments and countries. Through the app, we also compete with other companies supporting WaterAid. All part of showing solidarity for people who don’t have easy access to clean water.

It’s a great way to increase awareness within and outside the company and has the added value of getting people to move more.

Ivy Michelo, 34, standing beside a pump installed by WaterAid, which supports the community and irrigates crops in Milimo Village, Zambia.

Left side picture: Ivy Michelo, 34, (left in picture) with her fellow community members Florence Michelo, 39, Timo Simwami, 25, Ivy Chizela, 41, and Mary Hachitaba, 45, proudly displaying the various crops they have harvested in Milimo village, Zambia. The crops are irrigated with the help of the pump WaterAid has installed in the village.

ABOUT THE GOOD CASHMERE STANDARD® BY ABTF

The Good Cashmere Standard® is an independent standard for sustainably certified cashmere, developed by the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), that aims to improve the welfare of cashmere goats, the lives of the farmers, and the environment in which they live. Find out more on: www.thegoodcashmerestandard.org

SWITZERLAND

NILORN WORLDWIDE all lights on

Nilorn of becomes part BallyLabels Group

Founded in Switzerland in 1851, Bally is one of the world’s longest standing luxury brands. After eight generations and 200 years of family business, Martin Bally is retiring and passing on ownership of Bally Labels AG to the Nilorn Group.

BY LIANA ZANIN

BACKGROUND OF BALLY LABELS

What began as a family-run ribbon factory, started by Carl Franz Bally in Schönenwerd, quickly became a pioneering global brand by the turn of the century. Bally industrialised its processes (1854), built infrastructure and services to support its employees, and expanded stores from Montevideo, Uruguay (1870) to Paris, France (1879).

But it all began with ribbons. As early as 1810, two brothers, Urs Peter and Niklaus Bally, took over their father’s business, which they quickly expanded. After just five years, they made the step from merchandiser to manufacturer. They acquired ribbon looms from a business liquidation and started to produce ribbons themselves. This laid the foundation for constant growth and ultimately for the entire Schönenwerder industry. In 1851 the business was split between the brothers and Bally shoes was born.

NEW CHAPTER

Becoming part of Nilorn is a natural step since the two companies have had a close relationship since 1992, when Nilorn initially bought Bally Labels including their production. However, the production side closed in 2001 and in 2006, Nilorn offered Martin Bally the opportunity to buy the company back.

From January 1st, 2023, Liana Zanin and Ayse Peter will lead the company. They have both been with Bally Labels AG for some years and will continue working closely with their existing and new customers. They will lead the small, tight team in Schönenwerd that consists of Jeannette Etterli, Nicole Pieren, Bianca Carlino, and René Meyer (missing in the picture)

The Bally Labels AG name will remain for now. The entire Swiss team is excited and fully motivated for the changes that lie ahead.

Introducing Liana & Ayse

Ayse Peter

Of Turkish descent, Ayse was born and raised in Switzerland. She joined Bally Labels AG in June 2018 and was ‘all in’ from the first day. She loves to be out there with the customers, find ways to accommodate their needs and leave her business cards everywhere she goes. She is a fast thinker, a tough negotiator and a reliable and loyal personality. If she’s not at work, she’s sure to travel Europe with her husband in their camper-van. Oh, and since September 4th, she’s also mother to little Ada.

Liana Zanin

With Italian blood on her father’s side and Swiss one on her mother’s, Liana has always felt very comfortable in different cultures and has travelled all over the world. She has been known to disappear in the Egyptian desert for a couple of weeks, one of her most favorite places to be. She joined Bally Labels AG in February of 2017 at 60%, thinking it will be just a part-time job until she found something else. She quickly realized that this is ‘the one’ and went full-time soon after. She is the systemic thinker, strategist and loves to lead and move forward. Change is constant – so let’s embrace it! She is mother to two grown-ups.

NILORN: CONNECT

ADDING INFORMATION TO YOUR BRAND

BY MARTIN ARVIDSSON

A digital twin of each physical product allows brands to collect and share

extended and unique information about individual products. Our platform of digital services helps brands achieve this.

It is no longer an option for brands to avoid genuinely working with their sustainability goals and actions if they want to remain attractive and competitive in the long run. Companies that prepare will have a significant advantage when requirements for transparency and traceability increase. Meanwhile, others will fall behind and face a more significant challenge when requirements, such as the Digital Product Passport, become effective.

Consumers are becoming more aware and make purchasing decisions with sustainability and the environment in mind. Therefore, the ability of brands to manage and share such information is key for consumers. This means brands need to have control and traceability of their products like material composition, factories involved, working conditions, etc. It is time for brands lagging in these areas to prepare and take action to improve.

DIGITAL PRODUCT PASSPORT

In March 2022, the European Commission presented the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) as part of the New Circular Economy Action Plan and Circular Economy Package. The proposed introduction of a Digital Product Passport (DPP) is expected to be a key enabler in promoting a circular economy.

The Digital Product Passport is intended to facilitate collecting and sharing relevant data connected to a product with all actors during its lifecycle. For example, consumers will have access to verified information about a product’s environmental impact, enabling them to compare products and make wiser

purchasing decisions. The Digital Product Passport shall also contribute to the extension of the product user phase and improve the management of products in terms of sorting or recycling once re-use and repair are no longer an option.

Textile products are one of the prioritised product groups. They are expected to be one of the first to have to put the upcoming obligations into practice, with a preliminary start date in 2024. (At the time of publishing, no final decisions were made on the final content or framework of the DPP or on the time plan for its implementation.)

DATA CARRIERS/LABELS

Unique QR codes are the most common way to label individual products, which consumers can scan via a mobile phone. NFC is another option but currently has a much higher price point and is, therefore, mainly used for exclusive and high-value products. QR codes can also be combined with RFID to support stock management and consumer interactions with a single label.

For unique QR codes, the recommendation is to use the GS1 Digital Link-standard with a sub-domain of the brand’s domain to avoid a solution vendor lock.

NILORN:CONNECT

This is our platform of digital services to help brands fulfil the increasing demands of transparency and traceability within the textile and fashion industry.

A digital twin of each physical product allows sharing of extended and unique information about the product.

QR CODE

QR codes commonly represent a URL/ web address where the content is shown when the barcode is scanned, usually with a smartphone.

Unique GS1 Digital Link QR codes can be used to identify individual products.

NFC

Like QR codes, an NFC tag commonly represents a URL/web address that is opened when the tag is tapped with a smartphone.

They can be embedded in labels and trims like badges, zip-pullers etc.

More advanced NFC tags can have a larger memory and provide extra features like product authentication.

RFID – RADIO FREQUENCY IDENTIFICATION

RFID is mainly used for logistics and stock management in retail and apparel.

Each RFID tag has a unique identity, usually encoded according to the global standard SGTIN-96.

RFID tags can be read from several meters using UHF RFID readers but cannot be read with smartphones like QR codes or NFC tags.

”WE RECOMMEND TO BEGIN WITH OUR BASIC SOLUTION AND GROW WITH ADDITIONAL FUNCTIONALITY AND EXPERIENCES FROM THERE.”

•

•

•

POSSIBILITIES

Brand

• Tell the story of each individual product

• Monitor inventory and supply chains

• Improve logistics and key processes like returns and product recalls

• Improve consumer engagement with individualised style tips, easier product reviews etc.

Consumer

• Choose products based on performance and environmental impact

• Extend the lifetime of products by having access to key information during their life cycles

• Shop safer by avoiding counterfeits and stolen goods

KRISTOFFERSEN BEATRICE

GROUP CSR MANAGER

at Nilorn at Nilorn Nilorn

WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES AND HIGHLIGHTS OF THE LAST YEAR?

This year’s biggest challenges have been the effects on our supply chain from climate change, covid and the war in Ukraine. We have had to think outside the box to solve problems. But despite the challenges, this year has also been filled with some inspiring highlights. In July, I attended the AAFA Traceability & Sustainability conference in Pittsburgh. The US is a relatively new market for Nilorn, so this was the perfect opportunity to get to know the market and clients better. I also travelled to our new sourcing regions in the US, Mexico, Guatemala and Vietnam, as well as visiting large parts of our supply chain, which is essential to developing and driving positive changes.

WHERE DO YOU SEE NILORN’S MAIN STRENGTHS?

We integrate sustainability throughout all parts of the company, which is a great strength. We have new group functions making the central management stronger to support our offices and productions better globally. We are also incorporating more certifications, social audits, HIGG modules, etc., to make our supply chain more robust and drive positive improvements in all areas.

WHAT ARE YOU EXCITED ABOUT FOR THE FUTURE AT NILORN?

I am excited about Nilorn’s continued growth, building up our production and entering new markets. I am excited about all the positive developments Nilorn is driving to make the industry a leading example for sustainable development. In addition, virtual meetings with suppliers have increased which have resulted in savings and reductions on travel.

1. At the Nilorn Pakistan office in Karachi: Abdul Rasheed, Younus Sheri, Jabbar Aswani, Mahmood Javid 2. Vietnamn

Nilorn Bangladesh Factory in Dhaka 4. AAFA - Traceability & sustainability conference in Pittsburgh

Supplier visits in Guatemala and Mexico which are new sourcing regions for Nilorn

DESIGN

CREATIVE LABELS AND BRANDING

On the following pages we present our latest design collections, developed for different fashion and sportswear segments. Design, materials and innovation is at the heart of what we do and we strive to offer not just a wide and varied choice but also an informed and responsible one. Nilorn’s goal is to continuously increase the recycled content of our products and introduce bio-based options over fossil-based where possible. Part of this is also ensuring that our raw materials are traceable and responsibly sourced.

23:1 COLLECTIONS

Photo credits: Good Faces, Unsplash

Wida is for the woman who loves life, thrives on self-expression, and takes a stand on the issues that matter most. Vivid colour blocks with an urban edge is the signature look of this street-casual collection.

Iceland’s rugged landscape forms the inspirational backdrop for this menswear collection. Jörd integrates biobased materials into classic garments that simultaneously recollect and respect nature.

WHY CHOOSE BIOBASED MATERIALS?

• • •

Biobased fibres and fabrics reduce dependence on finite fossil fuels

Reduced emissions when sustainably sourced: plants capture CO2 from the atmosphere and store it. Therefore, greenhouse gas emissions can be reduced compared to virgin fossil-based fibres

Depending on fibres and application, some biobased products are biodegradable which can help to prevent from microplastic

Hanna is for a slower, more contemplative approach to life, where self-care, rest and reflection are a priority. Cocoon in the comfort of soft knits, brushed jersey, velvet and linen expressed in muted colours. Let Hanna boost well-being this season.

Reduces the amount of waste sent to landfill and incineration

Preserves valuable resources instead of extracting new raw materials

Conserves natural resources such as timber and water

Reduces energy consumption

Helps reduce greenhouse gas emissions by reducing waste, energy consumption and preserving valuable resources instead of extracting new raw materials

Increases economic security by tapping a domestic source of materials

Helps create jobs in the recycling industries

The future of sportswear is here. We optimise every RECYC garment for performance, digital integration and circular thinking. Our recycled fabrics are tested to guarantee supreme function and durability, and our digital solution Nilorn:Connect ensures transparency and traceability.

VEGAN LABEL CONCEPT

BY NILORN

Veganism has entered the fashion world – from luxury to high street, active to casual – brands from across the sector are offering capsule collections with vegan approved products. Nilorn supports the movement – we have therefore designed and tested a development process for vegan approved labels and trims. The result of this work is AOKI – Nilorn’s first vegan branding concept.

BY CHRISTINA HEINES

SOURCING VEGAN ALTERNATIVES

When starting a vegan development you need to understand that classing a product as vegan not only rules out using fur, leather, wool and natural silk (which comes from the silkworm), but also many substances in glues, dyes, and chemicals derived from animals.

There is actually no legally binding definition for the requirements of vegan products. We have built the Nilorn Vegan Policy on learnings from the industry and how other brands approach their requirements.

We define a material or a product as vegan if it meets both of the following two conditions:

• The material or product does not contain any animal ingredients or by-products

• No animal ingredients or by-products are used during the product manufacturing

Vegan requirements typically apply to labels and trims. Metal and packaging, like hangtags, can be relevant depending on the project.

RAW MATERIAL PRODUCTION I.e. polyester synthesis, cotton farming

The scope of vegan requirements

MATERIAL MATERIAL PRODUCTION

FIBRE AND YARN Including dyes and other substances used

FABRIC/ MATERIAL MAKING i.e weaving, knitting etc.

PRODUCT MAKING i.e. dying, printing, startching, embroidery, cutting and other finishes

NILORN VEGAN

APPROVED PRODUCTS Mainly labels and trims.

IN SCOPE:

Material is vegan – yarn, fabric, substances used to make the material

Substances used during production and manufacturing are vegan - oils, finishes, dyes, glues, adhesives, ink, pigments etc.

OUT OF SCOPE:

Raw material production

Machine components and substances used for maintenance and cleaning

Transport packaging

ARE ALL VEGAN PRODUCTS SUSTAINABLE?

Veganism is a philosophy and way of living which seeks to exclude all forms of exploitation of, and cruelty to, animals for food, clothing or any other purpose.

Vegan fashion does not necessarily have an environmentally friendly production process. Vegan is fair for animals, but not automatically fair for people.

In an ideal world, veganism promotes the development and use of animal-free alternatives for the benefit of animals, humans and the environment. We aim to cover both areas – vegan requirements and responsible production.

DEVELOPING AOKI - A VEGAN DENIM CONCEPT

We have tested and applied our vegan workflow to a progressive unisex denim concept inspired by avant-garde Japanese street styles: AOKI.

We have included a range of different materials such as recycled polyester and re-jeans yarn made with recycled cotton fibre from jeans for textile labels, Corozo and metal for buttons or imitation leathers and recycled TPU for patches.

All items in AOKI have gone through a stringent assessment by our suppliers, product development and compliance team working together to check and ensure compliance with vegan requirements for AOKI products. For high-risk products or when there is any

The Cactus used to make Desserto® is grown in an organic farming system in the fertile and mineral-rich region of Zacatecas, Mexico.

AOKI Patch in Desserto® - an imitation leather using 33% and 67% PU Cactus fibre on the coating.

doubt, we use testing to verify the vegan claims. Different testing programs and methods are available depending on the product in question.

VEGAN DESIGN - TIPS

In vegan product development, every material and every substance used on the product is accurately reviewed and assessed. It’s therefore helpful to consider some things before product design:

1.) Choose low-risk materials or materials that are already certified vegan.

2.) Design products with few components/ materials.

3.) Avoid complex finishes and extra manufacturing steps where possible.

Known as “vegetable ivory” because of its hard, durable quality and white colour, Corozo is a natural material made from the core of Tagua tree seeds.

AOKI buttons in Corozo. The material can be carved and shaped, its porous surface makes it easy to dye.

”WE

JOE

DRYKORN FOR BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

WE MEET AGAIN

THREE FAIRS THAT BROUGHT US TOGETHER LAST YEAR

In 2022, we enjoyed meeting existing and prospective clients in person from across our industry at fashion/textiles fairs – Première Vision, Munich Fabric Start and Performance Days. Three venues where we could connect, build relationships and inspire each other.

PREMIÈRE VISION

In early July, we were at Première Vision in Paris Nord Villepinte. We welcomed visitors to our newly designed open and airy booth, which is a nod to our Scandinavian design heritage.

This biannual fair brings together key players in raw materials – such as fabrics, yarn, leather and alternatives – and services for the fashion industry. Discover the different exhibition-areas, explore the inspiration forums with the season’s key highlights or join conferences where you can meet experts. Première Vision has become an international benchmark for inspiration, creativity and business, as well as highlighting trends that will emerge on the markets and topics driving change across our sector.

MUNICH FABRIC START

We were in good company at Munich Fabric Start in August, with 900 other international manufacturers. We were there in our individual, spacious booth that’s designed to make our clients feel welcome and comfortable during their visit.

This twice-yearly textile fair is one of the leading European textile trade shows. Fabric and accessories manufacturers present their latest developments and innovations, and there’s an informative program of panel talks and presentations. We appreciate the diversity of topics and segments covered, which give us an overview of relevant trends and products

entering the market. The show includes an international Denim Trade show ‘Bluezone’ and ‘ReSOURCE’, the sourcing platform for sustainable and responsibly produced fabrics, apparel and trims.

PERFORMANCE DAYS

Performance Days Functional Fabric Fair in Munich was in March, and we were there to meet clients and present our range. The fair runs twice a year and is a great way to discover highperformance functional fabrics and accessories. It highlights all the latest fabric trends and includes an innovative program of talks and seminars.

Performance Days is always at the forefront of market trends, creating focus topics for each season. The fair has set an ambitious “Journey of Carbon Neutrality” theme for three events in 2022-23. The first focused on technology to reduce CO2 and measure a product’s carbon footprint. The Autumn edition highlighted the need for transparency and comparability by indicating CO2 production emissions. The final step, in April 2023, will show even more product CO2 information and introduce offsetting/reduction solutions for production.

Through events like Première Vision, Munich Fabric Start and Performance Days, we can inspire, exchange and importantly, meet in person. We hope to meet even more of you in 2023.

UPCOMING FAIRS

01

PERFORMANCE DAYS

15-16 March 2023

MOC, Lilienthalallee 40, 80939 Munich www.performancedays.com

02

PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS

7-9 February 2023

Parc des expositions Paris Nord Villepinte, 95975 Roissy-Charles de Gaulle www.premierevision.com

03

MUNICH FABRIC START

24-26 January 2023

MOC, Lilienthalallee 40, 80939 Munich www.munichfabricstart.com

Our German Team at MFS share interesting news and our collection portfolios.

NILORN JOINING THE EUROPEAN OUTDOOR GROUP

The EOG is built upon three essential priorities: conducting business in an ethical and sustainable manner, preserving the outdoors, and getting people active in nature. For this reason the European Outdoor Group has helped to found and continues to support the It’s Great Out There Coalition, and the European Outdoor Conservation Association. All of the work is aligned around these three ‘pillars’, and the strategies and plans are designed to support the members’ collective vision for the outdoor sector.

EOG undertake a wide range of activities, including market insights, corporate social responsibility and sustainability initiatives, outdoor retail collaboration, organising and supporting industry events and trade fairs, and representing the sector and its interests to the European Commission, other formal institutions, NGOs, and other stakeholders.

In October 2022, we took part of the EOG’s European Outdoor Summit in France. The annual summit brings together over 300 leaders from the outdoor industry for two days of seminars, panel discussions and networking. This year’s theme was ‘Finding Balance and Success within Disorder’ and centred around the many challenges and opportunities our industry faces in a world of climate change and ecosystem degradation. We watched keynotes from inspirational speakers, including economic anthropologist Dr Jason Hickel, who talked about the need to shift from domination and extraction of nature to reciprocity and regeneration. We heard about just-in-time,

“WE FEEL THAT THIS COOPERATION UNDERSCORES OUR STRONG SUSTAINABLE AMBITION AND FITS IN WITH OUR GROUP STRATEGY AND CORE VALUES.”

on-demand and made-to-order manufacturing to reduce overproduction; a discussion on human rights challenges; the future of single-use plastics; and an update on climate and sustainability policies that are relevant to our industry. We left the conference buzzing with new ideas, insights and inspiration.

The EOG has started a special project within single-use-plastic that we participate in together with some other members with the aim of seeing how to both reduce the use of plastic, increase the proportion that is recycled and contribute to more recycling.

When it comes to sustainability practices and the broader outdoor apparel industry, we know there is always more to learn. We are encouraged when we meet colleagues across the sector to discuss these vital topics, learn from each other and ultimately work together towards a better future.

HISTORY

The European Outdoor Group was founded in 2003 by 19 of the world’s largest outdoor companies to create a collaborative approach. It now represents retailers, national associations, and technology providers and has over 100 members. Activities include supporting market research, CSR and sustainability, events and shows, outdoor retail and engaging with politicians and legislators.

VISION IN PROGRESS

THE NILORN ROADMAP TO PREFERRED MATERIALS

Materials are part of Nilorn’s holistic sustainability strategy. But what is a sustainable material? What is better – cotton or polyester, real leather or imitation leather? The short answer is that we don’t recommend comparing materials from different categories because they have such diverse potential impacts and applications. Material offers benefits and challenges specific to its functionality and limitations. But for each material, we can evaluate and source responsibly produced alternatives. We consider these alternatives “preferred materials”. To provide guidance to alternative material sourcing, Nilorn’s Materials Team has developed an internal roadmap: the Nilorn Preferred Materials Index (PMI).

BY CHRISTINA HEINES

1THE NILORN MATERIALS STRATEGY – OUR VISION FOR CHOOSING PREFERRED FIBRES AND MATERIALS

2When it comes to raw materials our focus is on climate change mitigation and waste reduction. Our aim is to reduce our environmental impact by preferencing materials sourced for example from more regenerative and circular production systems. Practically, this means our goal is to continuously increase the recycled content of our products and introduce biobased options instead of fossil materials wherever possible. We support material recycling and encourage the use of agricultural waste and food production residues as feedstock for biobased materials. We also support the use of renewable energy and see the huge benefit in tracing raw materials to their origin.

1. Woven label - 100% recycled polyester sourced from mechanically recycled PET bottles, GRS certified.

2. Patch - 100% plant-based leather substitute.

NILORN PREFERRED

MATERIALS

INDEX - A TOOL BASED ON CIRCULAR PRINCIPLES

The PMI reflects our vision for the fibres and materials we preference. It is guided by our Raw Materials Policy and supports our internal Materials Strategy. The index is based on circular principles and covers social, environmental and animal welfare:

Material health and safety: Raw materials are safe for people and the environment at all use phases

Renewable resources and energy: Fibres are derived from biobased and/or recycled sources, renewable energy is used for processing

Material reutilisation: Products and fibres can potentially be reused and/or recycled after end of life

Traceability and Transparency: Trace raw materials through the supply chain and back to its origin

Water stewardship: Water is used in a way that is socially equitable, environmentally sustainable and economically beneficial

Positive impact on people, animals and planet: Responsible use of land and soil, ensure human rights and animal welfare

To build the framework we reviewed several industry sources: The Preferred Material Benchmark by Textile Exchange, the classification of the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI), the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute standards, Canopy Style’s annual Hot Button Ranking and findings from Sustainable Packaging Coalition resources for packaging materials.

The Nilorn Preferred Materials Index identifies levels of improvement: From conventional to improved, advanced and ultimately products we consider fit for the future.

Level D: Conventional

Conventional, virgin fibres and materials.

Level C: Improved Materials that include a minimum of 30% certified recycled or biobased/organic fibres.

Level B: Advanced Materials that use high percentages of certified recycled fibres or biobased/organic fibres. Can potentially be reused and/or recycled after end-of-life.

Level A: Fit for the future

Materials made from closed-loop recycled fibres, regenerative organic fibres, industrial by-products or waste. Can potentially be reused and/or recycled after end-of-life.

Our vision is for a gradual scale from conventional to improved to advanced and ultimately to products we consider fit for the future.

Responsible chemical management and manufacturing, use of renewable energy

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF MATERIAL CHOICES FOR NILORN PRODUCTS

Textile Exchange

GUIDANCE FOR NEW MATERIAL SOURCING

The Preferred Materials Index helps us rate and compare materials within the same category i.e. comparing conventional products with their more responsibly produced sibling. Each new material that we consider adding to our range goes through an initial funneling process where we examine aspects such as functional properties, price level and availability together with it’s sustainability performance and end-of-life options. For example, compared to generic cellulose fibres, TENCELTM branded lyocell fibres can be considered preferred since they are made from certified wood and produced in a closed-loop system where 99% of the solvents and processed water are recovered and reused.

The PMI helps our sourcing and product development teams communicate our Material Strategy to our suppliers and source improved materials. Nilorn’s Material Team uses the tool to identify and evaluate high potential next generation materials for innovation developments. Shared with clients it can support more informed choices during material selection.

A LIVING SYSTEM

Working with materials is an ongoing process that requires a progressive approach. Our index is a living system that is regularly reviewed and adjusted by the Materials Team. We will continue to evaluate available data, review and incorporate further potential data sources for future updates.

“A PREFERRED FIBRE OR MATERIAL IS ONE WHICH IS ENVIRONMENTALLY AND/OR SOCIALLY PROGRESSIVE, THE USE OF WHICH RESULTS IN POSITIVE BENEFITS IN COMPARISON TO CONVENTIONAL PRODUCTION.”

Celebrating everyday life

Labels and trims using TENCELTM Lyocell fibres.

TENCELTM Lyocell fibres are made from certified wood.

TENCELTM Lyocell fibres are produced in a closedloop process.

Labels are smooth with soft woven edges.

Products are recommended for use in biobased garments.

TENCELTM Lyocell fibres are compostable and biodegradable.

Products can be recycled back to new cellulose fibres.

TENCEL™ is a trademark of Lenzing AG