A
PUB LICATI ON
FROM
NI LORN
WO R LDWI DE
N o.
2/ 2017
COVER
COVER PHOTO
Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands by using
Photo Olof Händén
branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion
Styling Gorjan Lauseger
and ready-to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding,
Hair/ Make up Sanne Anndriani
design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore
Model Astrid Eika Le Management
important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of ca 60 M EUR0. The group operates through its own
PAPER
companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India, China,
Cover Tom Otto silk 300g
Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, Tunisia and USA.
Body Tom Otto 150g
Uncoated Edixion offset 150g Print Responstryck AB, Borås, Sweden
www.nilorn.com
SWEDEN
commerciale@calatura.it
table of
CONTENTS
11
WELCOME Dear Reader
12
NEW HEAD OF SUSTAINABILITY Interview - Anna Karin WÃ¥rfors
18
3D PRINTED JEWELLERY Breaking Boundaries
22
RETAIL INFORMATION SERVICE The perfect solution for variable data
27
CARE LABELS TODAY Directions and recommendations
31
NILORN WORLDWIDE Bangladesh
42
MALLALIEUS British made fabric since 1863
50
PANTONE Coated / Uncoated
86
84
63
56
68
18
53
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT Around the world
56
PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO Boom Pitti Blooms!
68
MADE IN BERLIN Products that we love
72
WHAT IF YOU HAD 24 hours in Berlin
80
BEHIND THE COLLECTIONS Inspiration trips
84
17:2 DESIGN COLLECTIONS Product development and fashion shoot
112
COLOUR, CREATIVITY & COLLECTIONS Design collections event in Antwerp
116
PANTONE Coated / Uncoated
122
TERRE BLEUE All about the know-why
130
RECAP OF PRODUCTS Pins, rivets and key holders
54
HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com
SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel: +46 33 700 88 00 Fax:+46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel: +41 62 855 27 50 Fax: +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Millennium Castle, 12th fl. House 47, Road 27 Block A, Banani Dhaka -1213 BANGLADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Vestergade 48 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel: +45 70 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +852 2 371 2218 Fax: +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com
NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax: +49 2103 908 16 - 99 info@de.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN ITALY Ribelle srl Via Oceano Altantico 21/A 41012 Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax:+92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 701, 288, Chengjiaqiao Road. Minhang District, Shanghai, CHINA Poastal Code 201103 Tel: +86-21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com
BRANDING
& DESIGN
10
NILORN TURKEY Mimar Sinan Cad. Ünverdi Sok. No:50. Kat:3. 34540 Günesli Istanbul TURKEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD 1A Acre Park Dalton Lane Keighley West Yorkshire BD21 4JH UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44 1535 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN USA LLC 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 888-315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com
Dear Reader It is with great pleasure that we hereby release the 2nd edition of our 2017 Branding and Design Magazine. The creative team within Nilorn have developed this issue during the last 3-4 months in order to inspire and spread valuable information within the world of branding.
The fashion industry is more competitive than ever and, in order to be successful, brands must ensure they are more creative and smarter to win customers attention. They must make themselves more visible and put greater effort into their profile and identification to ensure they stand out as unique.
To create something different and special you need to start with the history of the brand, what you want to communicate and how to confirm that in a trustworthy way so the consumer has the correct perception of your brand. It’s necessary to think in the long term and integrate important areas such as sustainability, quality
and style. Everything that can make consumers feel safe should be used. Political correctness is required at all times. Above all, thought processes and approach must be positive and long term in order to build the
right values around your brand. Nilorn has more than half a century of experience in creating and supporting brands, ensuring that they are now more visible and successful. We can do the same for you. We see branding as a partnership and we aim to be your preferred choice within labels and branding.
In this edition have we gone deeper into what Nilorn can offer in sustainability, Retail Information Service
– the perfect solution for all types of variable data in labelling. We are also proud to present our new factory in Bangladesh which recently started production. We have the option to fully control our products and the vision that it shall be a state-of-the-art factory, from a production, workplace and sustainability point of view.
We will, of course, also present the latest collections showcasing creative and interesting ideas and demonstrating qualities, techniques and trends within branding.
I hope you find the magazine inspiring – please enjoy.
Claes af Wetterstedt
CE O
BRANDING
& DESIGN
11
Nilorn’s New Force for Sustainability ANNA-KARIN WÅRFORS, NEW HEAD OF SUSTAINABILITY.
Family, background; Anna-Karin is married to
Morgan who is a wood craft teacher, and they have three children. The family lives on a farm outside of Aplared which is Anna-Karin’s mother’s family home. On the farm they have horses, sheep, chickens and a cat. Anna-Karin has a Master’s Degree in Business from Linköping University.
Why sustainability? During my time as Purchasing manager at Corporate Express (now Staples) I came in contact with sustainability issues for the first time. There were among other things major procurements for example counties and municipalities. When Gina Tricot was to take their next step in their sustainability work in 2009 I got the opportunity to be a part of it and build up the project with CSR, most importantly the implementation of Code of Conduct and audit program in the supply chain. This was an exciting time with varied work and many trips to different production units mostly in Asia and Turkey. Experience of Nilorn’s business? I have so far visited Nilorn in Bangladesh, Hong Kong, China, Portugal and Turkey. Nilorn is an exciting company, very international and with many employees with a long experience of the business. It was naturally very interesting to visit Nilorn’s brand new factory in Dhaka. I have previously visited many factories in Bangladesh that produce garments and to now work with a company that has its own production is something I look forward to.
You have just recently prepared the first Corporate Sustainability-Report. What are your thoughts about that work? It was a good preparation for us
prior to next year when sustainability reporting will become mandatory by law. We need to find methods and systems for collecting data. We need clear goals and to start measuring our impact and, in turn, enable improvements. I am impressed by our design department which, during a very short period of time, developed a nice layout and they also created a connection between the Corporate Sustainability Report and other corporate communication that I like. It is important that the Corporate Sustainability Report is something that our stakeholders recognise and want to read about.
INTERVIEW
BRANDING
& DESIGN
13
INTERVIEW
”TODAY WE SPEAK A LOT OF CIRCULAR ECONOMY - WE NEED TO BE A PART OF THAT AND SEE HOW WE AT NILORN CAN CONTRIBUTE BETTER.”
What do you want to accomplish with Nilorn?
What are the future challenges for Nilorn?
From my experience with garment manufacturing companies I predict that it will be more common with increased demands in quick deliveries, as well as a control of supply chain and a conversion to more sustainable material in the products.
There is a great interest for different sustainability issues within Nilorn which is very inspiring. I hope to be able to create a structure for the work so that we all together work towards the same goal and that the work with sustainability becomes a natural part of all the organisation’s aspects. Today we speak a lot of circular economy - we need to be a part of that and see how we at Nilorn can contribute better.
What do you think the demands on the business will look like in the near future? Young people
today have a strong commitment to sustainability. It is an important topic for them both as consumers and when they apply for a job. It is important that we, as a company, are at the forefront and tell others how we work. The demand on companies to take responsibility for production, no matter in which country the production is executed, along with a more circular economy, are both things that we in the business need to take into our operation.
Who inspires you? Several of the large fashion companies have heads of sustainability who, over several years, have worked hard for greater company responsibility and a change towards a more sustainable industry, from material and production to recycling. I see them as good inspirers and I believe that cooperation is necessary for change. What are your hobbies? We have three children, animals and we live on a farm so there is never a shortage of things to do. I like to be in the stable and often drive horse and daughter to training and competitions. I am also a Judge in horse jumping and one of our sons plays soccer and floorball. Now, the lambs are coming and it is a nice time of the year.
Our CEO has the ambition that Nilorn should become the best at sustainability within the area of trims and branding – how do we reach that?
For me as head of sustainability it is naturally a very motivating and clear goal and at the same time a big challenge. For us to achieve this it is important that everyone in the organisation sees that their decisions and actions are part of the sustainability work. We cannot see sustainability as simply one department. The work must reach everyone and become a natural part of every decision. We operate in many countries and it is also important to think about how we view work environment and environmental issues. It is good to have a clear management system that includes sustainability issues to refer to. We are also going to work with our external suppliers and take responsibility for a sustainable production, as well as having product development with sustainability in focus.
Any simple tips on how all of us can be more moderate? We can simply start by looking around
us and what kind of changes can I make to decrease the environmental load. You can begin with something small to get started, like choosing locally made or ecofriendly products or leaving clothes to recycle instead of throwing them away. The important thing is to start with something - if we try to do too much the risk is that nothing gets done. Another tip is to talk to young people and ask for suggestions. They often have many good thoughts and ideas about sustainability.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
14
DISCOVER OUR ONLINE STORE WWW.HAMPTONBAYS.BE
ARTICLE
3D
Printed Jewellery BREAKING BOUNDARIES Advancements in technology have made leaps and bounds over the last decades, and that has pushed the limits of what we can achieve in many fields. 3D printing has had a substantial impact on production of goods and design. One of the most well-known and spectacular examples is Iris van Herpen’s clothes. It might sound like something out of Star Trek but now even jewellery can be 3D printed. WORDS: PATRICK HJERTÈN
BRANDING
& DESIGN
18
ARTICLE
Photo: Patricia Haas, Model: Dadi Poulain - RADIAN
BRANDING
& DESIGN
19
ARTICLE
3D necklace from RADIAN Photo: Patricia Haas, Model: Dadi Poulain
They look and feel like other cast pieces of jewellery - and sometimes they are a mix of both. The materials are mostly ones we know and love such as gold, silver and bronze, but before you start thinking of printing jewellery with a small 3D printer at home, pause for a moment - you are most likely to need a larger printer. 3D printed jewellery in metal is created with Lost-Wax Printing and Casting. You simply 3D print the mould and then the metal is cast in that mould. A 3D file is required, which you can make at home with the right software. A plastic prototype can be made to see if design and quality are according to your specifications, and luckily it is easy to make changes in the 3D modelling software. Even with technological advancements we still need the human aspect in the creating process. Talent, a sense for good design and
the knowledge of turning idea into reality cannot be replaced. During and after the production process we still need humans for manual labour.
TO A CERTAIN EXTENT IT SEEMS LIKE THE SKY IS THE ONLY LIMIT.�
What 3D printing brings to the table concerning the creation of jewellery is that it allows more people to create unique and personalised items. It also pushes and breaks the boundaries of what is possible to make which is nothing short of fantastic. There is even an app you can download, design a piece and then have the 3D file sent for production. If you have the desire to become a jewellery designer the opportunities have grown substantially larger thanks to technology. To a certain extent it seems like the sky is the only limit.
3D necklace from RADIAN
BRANDING
& DESIGN
20
3D necklace from MOSTLIKELY SILVER
RADIAN
MOSTLIKELY
Radian is a Berlin based label for contemporary jewellery that merges different aspects of design. Influenced by architecture and taking a graphic approach, the designers behind the brand choose to work with geometric and abstract shapes. All collections are built on a strong concept and every idea is translated into something meaningful. Working with 3D printing as a production method opens up a new world of shapes and aesthetics. It allows RADIAN to use innovative materials and create unique, artistic statement pieces.
Mostlikely combines architecture, computer graphics, design and sound. Their outstanding projects vary from buildings to art-installations and from videos to music productions, where boundaries between disciplines are most likely free flowing. The Viennese agency is run by the five partners Wolfgang List, Kurt MĂźhlbauer, Maik Perfahl, Mark Neuner and Robert Schwarz.
For further information contact: www.radian-jewelry.com
MOSTLIKELY SILVER
In Autumn 2014, Mostlikely design presented their first jewellery series Mostlikely silver. The silver pendants
are miniatures of their iconic lamp shade designs. The small wireframe models are produced in Belgium by using a wax 3D-printing and lost wax casting method. The molten silver is poured into the casting and once the silver has cooled and solidified, the plaster mould is broken and the silver models are removed by hand. Finally, the pendant gets a gloss finish and the chain is made out of silver in Austria. The customers are invited to thread the chain through the wireframe model however they like – Do-ItYourself style. For further information contact: www.mostlikely.at
ARTICLE
RETAIL INFORMATION SERVICE THE PERFECT SOLUTION FOR VARIABLE DATA WORDS: MARTIN ARVIDSSON
For many years, Nilorn had already supplied customers with price-tags/stickers, care labels and other variable data labels when we launched the initial version of our web order solution in 2002 - which opened many new possibilities. Since then, our web order solution has continuously been improved and extended in close collaboration with our customers and users which has led to a wide range of highly appreciated overall features and efficient, easy-to-use options for variable data items. We soon realised that, in a highly competitive market, flexibility, simplicity, efficiency and secure data management would be important components in our offering to successfully attract new customers to enjoy the benefits of our RIS-solutions. Looking at how our RIS business has grown over the years, it’s obvious that our decision has been correct and all our efforts have taken us to where we are today. Even if we today an impressive toolbox of solutions we don’t sit back as we are aware that times are always
BRANDING
& DESIGN
22
ARTICLE
”IN MANY CASES, USING OURSOLUTIONS AND SERVICES WILL SAVE BOTH THE BRAND OWNER AND THEIR FACTORIES DAILY TIME”
changing and we continue our work and development to make sure we also have cutting edge solutions going forward.
with the barcodes and care labels to help relieve that headache and allow you to focus on the things you do and know best.
In many cases, using our solutions and services will save both the brand owners and their factories time, not to mention getting the consistency in layout and quality of the labels, regardless of which factory it’s from and in which part of the world the factory is located. As an example, our care label solutions automatically translate the information to the languages required, thereby reducing time spent verifying this on artworks.
This is the area of expertise for the RIS-team at Nilorn who have a wealth of experience in successfully providing appreciated solutions to our customers, with all the benefits it gives. Don’t see the labels with barcodes, prices and care instructions as scary or a big challenge – see it as an opportunity.
I’ve met customers who, when just mentioning the word barcode or care label, give a big sigh and you can sense their headache growing. Even though there are companies who take this seriously, with dedicated skilled staff working within these areas, it’s a fact that this sometimes isn’t very high on the agenda. Instead, customers are focusing on their product development, creating new ranges and working on their branding and design. Why not let us deal
BRANDING
& DESIGN
23
commerciale@calatura.it
ARTICLE
BRANDING
& DESIGN
26
ARTICLE
CARE LABELS TODAY The world has become smaller, but no less complicated. As companies increase exports of clothing to a growing number of
countries and
continents, it’s now easier for them to get their clothing into worldwide markets, BUT there are still various challenges that go hand in hand with export sales.
When companies label their clothing, there can be huge differences based on whether the clothing is to be exported to the EU, the USA, Japan or other countries. As a rule, clothing must be labelled on the basis of five categories: fibre composition, size, country of origin, washing instructions and commercial origin, but there are differences to these five main rules, depending on the country.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
27
ARTICLE
For example, in the EU there is a statutory requirement to state from which fibres an item of clothing is made and while washing instructions are compulsory in Austria, in France they are only a recommendation. In the United Kingdom, certain types of nightwear must have special labelling regarding flammability. Most countries also have rules stating that labelling must be in the language of the country in question. The most extreme consequence of not having the regions appropriate information is the risk that the clothing would have to be withdrawn from the market, or that the clothing is stopped at customs and completely prevented from entering the country in which the company wants to sell it. Normally, companies are given a tickingoff and are asked to label their clothing correctly next time.
Dansk Fashion & Textile is working towards the joint creation of a worldwide labelling scheme, such as the Ginetex care-labelling system, which is language-neutral and primarily communicated using symbols. However, not all labels are easy to standardise. For example, a previous attempt to establish a European standard for sizing turned out to be technically complex to implement.
Dansk Fashion & Textile (the Danish Trade Association for Fashion and Textiles) is particularly familiar with this challenge, in its capacity as an industry organisation. For some time, the organisation has endeavoured to gather information and advise its members about clothing and other textile products. Michael Hillmose is Dansk Fashion & Textile’s international director. He provides members with advice on a daily basis and, according to him, smaller companies are finding this to be particularly challenging.
Michael Hillmose recommends that clothing brands engage a professional labelling supplier who understands the relevant regulations, or that companies should compile their own labelling manual, which complies with regulations for the markets in which the company’s clothing is sold. “No matter how the company chooses to tackle the issue and if you wanted to be absolutely certain that your labelling is correct, you’d have to sew a 10-page booklet into several locations of the clothing, containing all information in all languages for markets where the clothing may be sold” he says.
“Normally, larger companies have someone on their staff with responsibility for this area, as well as a well-functioning labelling manual. Smaller companies must often make do with the knowledge they can find on the Internet, however.”, he told us.
When in doubt about the correct labeling information needed on the garment or textile you wish to export to other territories, your regional Nilorn office can competently advise and guide you in the right direction.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
28
NILORN WORLDWIDE
Bangladesh
N I L O R N W O R L DW I D E all lights on
BRANDING
& DESIGN
31
NILORN WORLDWIDE
BRANDING
& DESIGN
32
NILORN WORLDWIDE
NILORN´S NEW FACTORY IN BANGLADESH WORDS: PATRICK HJÉRTEN
The garment and textile industry in Bangladesh has for a long time been of high importance for the supply of goods all around the world. Due to this it is natural that Nilorn now has an office and factory in this area. Nilorn has a multitude of clients in all corners of the world and a presence in this important part of the textile industry is vital to the continued development of Nilorn’s role as a deliverer of high quality merchandise. It is a natural development for Nilorn to have their own factory in an ever-growing market of textile and garment production. Since Nilorn is part of the industry producing hangtags, packaging and other essentials for garments, Bangladesh is where they need to be. Many of Nilorn’s clients produce their goods in Bangladesh and it is much easier for all parties concerned if the production of hangtags and such are just a hop and a skip away from the garment making - instead of on the other side of the world. When Nilorn’s own production is established in Bangladesh, time will be saved and we will have a smoother and more efficient operation, which will benefit the end consumer in more ways than one.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
33
NILORN WORLDWIDE
It is a sound investment for Nilorn to have a factory in Bangladesh when you consider the predictions of a growing market in this country. Having a presence in this market, Nilorn can more easily influence the work and the development of production in this region. Nilorn’s factory is a state-of-the-art facility when it comes to machinery and conditions for the workers - something that will have a positive effect for all of Nilorn’s stakeholders. A CONTINUED GROWTH
Since Bangladesh has a strong presence in the apparel market, Nilorn sees the opportunities of to grow in the coming years. This should be more than achievable when you consider that the textile and garment industry in Bangladesh calculates to grow its market share in the years to come. The latest figures show that the industry generated USD 28.09 billion in export during the fiscal year 2015-2016 which was an approximate growth of 10% in comparison to the previous year. ADVANTAGES OF THE BANGLADESH MARKET
The Bangladesh market has competitive prices and economies of scale. This, in combination with 30 years of experience in garment manufacturing, makes for a winning recipe. The population has a resilient entrepreneurial spirit and the goods that are made in Bangladesh hold an
BRANDING
& DESIGN
35
international standard quality. Bangladesh is moving with the times and the new demands of the market, therefore adapting their production facilities with greener and more environmentally-friendly concepts. There are many factories producing different types of products, along with rapidly developing backward linkage such as washing/drying/finishing/embroidery and an increasing trend of direct sourcing through local liaison offices. POTENTIAL WFOR EXPLORING NEW MARKETS
China has 37.35% of global clothing exports, whereas Bangladesh has about 6%. Bangladesh has great potential to grow in the global market. The destinations for Bangladesh’s export of textile goods have been the European Union and North America, but the diversification is ongoing and new markets are being considered - for example Russia, South Africa and Brazil. Developments in the arena of international trade policy make for higher expectations when it comes to further opportunities for market growth in Bangladesh. The simplification of GSP rules of origin is a positive sign and the opportunities in growth look very promising. GREEN REVOLUTION IN BANGLADESH
Factories in Bangladesh are working hard to make their facilities greener and better for the environment. Some of the top environmentally friendly factories in the world are now in Bangladesh, all due to the markets’ growing demand for sustainability. The position for Bangladesh as a stronger and larger contender on the international market has, through the green revolution, grown to a substantially more profitable one.
NILORN WORLDWIDE
”NILORN WILL IMPLEMENT THEIR VISION, AND THE VISIONS OF THEIR CLIENTS, OF GREEN AND HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCTS
NILORN’S CONTINUED WORK WITH THE ENVIRONMENT
Nilorn will look over energy consumption and ensure we create minimum wastage in the manufacturing of products. The saving on energy will affect the volume of greenhouse gas emissions in a favorable way. In line with this, Nilorn will also work towards reducing water consumption and have put in machinery to reuse water within the factory. The plan for Nilorn is to plant more trees and create better handling systems for hazardous waste. Daylight will be used to the greatest extent (otherwise LED lights) all to save on energy. Nilorn’s new factory in Bangladesh will use OekoTex standard raw materials to avoid harmful substances in textiles. All these strategies are a work in progress that will be an ongoing process to better the situation for both employees and products. NILORN MOVES ON ALONGSIDE BANGLADESH
Having their own factory in Bangladesh enables Nilorn to have a better control of production and quality. The same goes for sample development and delivery leadtime. Nilorn will also change the conditions
MADE IN BANGLADESH.”
for the employees of the factory by improving insurances and healthcare and installing a separate dining room, prayer room and other essentials. Nilorn sees it as very opportune to have a position in a market that is significant for the textile and garment industry, especially since it has considerable growth potential in the near future. Through having a presence in Bangladesh, Nilorn can more easily influence what is happening on that particular market. Nilorn will implement their vision, and the visions of their clients, of green and highquality products made in Bangladesh. Products that will travel across the globe.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
36
NILORN WORLDWIDE
project
NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. location Mouza : Ford Nagar Post: Dholla Bazar,Thana: Shingair, Dist: Manikgonj, Bangladesh.
client
NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. notes
PLEASE DON'T SCALE FROM THE DRAWING. THE CONTRACTOR AND HIS SUB CONTRACTOR ARE TO VERIFY ALL DIMENSIONS AT SITE. THE CONTRACTOR IS TO NOTIFY THE CONSULTANT ABOUT ANY DIFFERENCES CONTAINED IN THIS DRAWING BEFORE WORK STARTS.
architectural consultant
MATREEK
HOUSE-420 (A5), ROAD-06, MIRPUR DOHS, DHAKA.
principal architect
SAIDA AKTER
B.ARCH (KU), CMAIB: CA-287
signature
associate architect
ANIRBAN JOARDER TONMOY B.ARCH (KU), CMIAB: CT-072
MD. SHAKIL MORSHED
verified by signature
approval of client
NILORN BANGLADESH LTD.
signature
illustrator SYED REZA issue for CLIENT rev.no. ref.
00 OFFICE
drawing title
MASTER PLAN LAYOUT revision
final
N scale NTS date 14.01.2016 sheet size
sheet no
BRANDING
& DESIGN
37
as-per
We offer quality, comfort and casual style at brilliantly affordable prices, all in a rainbow of seasonal shades and a huge range of sizes – because we believe that the better something fits, the better it looks and feels. What’s more, with our dedication to detail and commitment to quality, you can enjoy that same comfort and style season after season.
A wide range of sizes from 8-26 and XS to 5XL
Comfort and style in footwear sizes ranging from 3 up to 14
New Cotton Edits collection for the modern woman
Look out for new Cotton Home launching this July
you are w
Have you cottoned on?
welcome to visit us today: cottontraders.com
Great TEAM!
We at JAKO-O see the world through the eyes of children. From the little moments of happiness to the big adventures. We offer you everything your children need for these. They already have the most important things: trust, love – and their parents.
www.jako-o.com
ARTICLE
ABOUT MALLALIEUS OF DELPH
Mallalieus of Delph Ltd is a woollen textile manufacturing company based in the North West of England. Spanning 5 generations it has remained as a textile manufacturer since 1840 when it was founded by two brothers. It has made numerous changes to its outlook and diversification particularly over the last 15 to 20 years.
philosophy is to design and create cloths which are of the highest standard and maintain pace with market and fashion changes. This belief is based on the customer base that has been built with both designer and nonhousehold names, with whom they continue to work closely with, both domestically and throughout Europe, America and the Far East
The family have seen the evolution of textile production from a cottage industry in the early 1900s to a highly mechanised operation in the 21st Century. They manufacture to some of the most recognised and respected brands in the world.
For over 150 years, the manufacture of finished cloth from raw material has been continued and has maintained pace with technological changes in the textile industry. The evolution from the handloom to the rapier loom, spinning wheel to the mule or ring frame and pen and paper to computerisation has not been ignored.
The aim of the Company is to uphold the fine traditions of woollen manufacturing which have been carried on by one family since the middle of the 19th Century. Their
BRANDING
& DESIGN
42
ARTICLE
Today, Valley Mills has a high production capability supported by up-to-date plant and equipment, expertise in cloth design and development, teamwork and dedication. The constant investment in the plant has given the company the ability to have immediate access to all aspects of manufacture. Raw material is dyed on site and a facility is also available to blend, card and spin yarn in a variety of colours, counts and compositions to accommodate the array of cloths they have created. Constant changes in colour demand are readily met by flexibility in raw material dyeing (using computer aided techniques). The capacity for spinning is constantly being reviewed according to demand and dependent upon the requirements of the customer; both small and high volumes are catered for.
 The variables in yarn composition at the high end of the fine woollen sector dictate a need for sound organisation where the spread of colours is wide but the volume small. The spinning operation and the stock service available on some ranges gives the company an ability to respond to and meet lead times required by its customers, irrespective of the size of order. Design capabilities and cloth diversity have become an integral part of the expansion of the company. From patterns through to bulk production, the warping capacity is backed up by short length and high speed warping machine. Multi-coloured warping from high end creels combines a facility for simple or complex design blocks. Cloth production is carried out in a unit comprising of 24 high-speed rapier looms which also weaves patterns and short lengths to initiate the marketing process. Bulk production is performed by a team
which is geared to providing high standards. To achieve this requires sound planning to respond to high demand for patterns prior to obtaining volume business. The nature of the organisation, the personnel and their awareness of the changes required enables the company to meet the delivery demands exacted upon it. Not only is the company capable of cloth manufacture, scarves have been a part of the sales strategy for many years. Investment was made to enable the fringing of scarves to take place after the weaving process and once a finish had been applied, slitting machinery could be utilised in house to render the scarf down to an individual unit. This machinery is also used for the production of shawls, throws and wraps. Their finishing department has both the machinery and depth of technical expertise to bring cloths to a level necessary for high class apparel. Bringing cloths to these standards of appearance, handle and durability is due in no small part to knowledgeable staff and the type of equipment installed. From flat to sophisticated surface appearances, from soft woollen coatings to fine cashmeres the capability to respond to customer requirements for these first class finishes lies within this area. Hard work, dedication and enthusiasm have allowed the company access to a well known customer base and they feel privileged to be associated with both designer and nondesigner names. At Mallalieus they feel that they offer all of their customers the same high standard of service and look forward to maintaining that reputation.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
44
ARTICLE
BRANDING
& DESIGN
46
ARTICLE
THE FUTURE‌
Their future relies on new and existing customers and only by them utilising their ability and having the desire to keep pace with technological change can illustrate that they are a company that is adequately placed to deal with requirements in the 21st century. Changes of demand in the market and the emergence of other countries countering the effects of streamlining its machinery, output and productivity have forced the company into niche markets which have proved to be a key to survival. The continued growth in information technology has enabled systems to be developed that enable the company to successfully deal in a worldwide market and exploit the speciality cloths with which it has become synonymous. Continued development of customer requests are always part of the framework the company works from. Close contact with existing customers and the desire to form relationships with new ones is worked on with deliberate intent by trying to
BRANDING
& DESIGN
47
understand and satisfy any type of enquiry. Where the company cannot sometimes emulate, it tries hard to accommodate. In the last 7 years the company has moved into a more inviting environment to make movement of production much easier with a weaving and finishing area on separate ground floor levels. Within that environment and being only 800 metres from its original site, an ability to retain experienced personnel and maintain a much needed skilled and flexible workforce has been possible. This has been a vital part of continuing to supply cloths to a high standard season after season and building up customer confidence in both product and service.
Marie Méro ●●●
www.mariemero.eu
AZZURRA&COMPANY
via lama di quartiolo,40 41012 Carpi (Mo) T. +39 059-692571
PANTONE 9121 C 11-0710 TPG CMYK 7, 1,41, 0
PANTONE 9121 U 11-0710 TPG CMYK 3, 0, 38, 0
MISSBISH IS THE MODERN WOMAN’S ALLY IN HER PURSUIT OF PROGRESS.
MISSBISH exists to provide the ultimate fashion, fitness, and lifestyle community to modern women in pursuit of progress through inspiration, community, and motivation.
FEEL GOOD. DO GOOD. LOOK GOOD.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT Our ‘places you must visit’ pages offer an insight into just a few of the interesting sites, venues and shops we visit around the world that inspire us here at Nilorn.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
53
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
Konk exclusively supports Berlin-based designers who are producing locally and fairly – including both fashion and jewellery. The designers follow their own style, creative direction and avant-garde vision. Konk is an essential location to spot upcoming trends before everyone else.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
54
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
KONK Kleine Hamburger street 15 10117 Berlin www.konk-berlin.de
OPENING HOURS: Monday - Friday 12am - 7pm Saturday 12am - 6pm
BRANDING
& DESIGN
55
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING
& DESIGN
56
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
BOOM PITTI BLOOMS! ITALY - FLORENCE WORDS: PATRICK HJERTÉN
The theme for the summer fair of the Pitti Immagine Uomo was flowers in all their states of bloom. There was a series of kaleidoscopic installations at the Fortezza and as well as a special corner at La Rinascente in Milan.
of a bud grows something tantalising in shape and colour - just as an idea is transformed into delectable creations of style and fashion. The theme was created to exude joy and everyone who has ever been presented with a flower knows that is the true meaning of everything that blooms. At Pitti Immagine Uomo - with this year’s theme, BOOM PITTI BLOOMS, created by life-styler Sergio Colantouni - you could see flying bouquets, gigantic sculptures and huge, inflatable plastic flowers.
This fair of men’s fashion is one of the most notable and influential in the world and one of the most favoured by buyers, both national and international. Here connections are made between significant players in the market and important business is negotiated. Pitti Immagine Uomo really is the place to see and be seen.
Agostino Poletto, deputy general manager of Pitti Immagine, states that this fair presents the marvels of a fanciful world. He says; “Lively spirited textures will blossom on huge sails to invade the Fortezza brightening new lounge areas and new observation points with color.
The dynamic atmosphere of Pitti Immagine Uomo continued this summer of 2017 with the energy and beauty of flowers. Out of a seed, out
BRANDING
& DESIGN
57
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
Patterns in motion will reverberate on special giveaways, objects, clothes created for this edition. The theme is also a metaphor for our fairs, of what fertile ground they are for new and often unusual creative expressions.”
NEXT EDITION: Pitti Uomo 93 | 9-12 Jan 2018
CONTEMPORARY GLOBAL LIFESTYLE This is the world’s most important platform for men’s clothing and accessory collections and
It was Sergio Colantuoni’s idea to arrange a collaboration between Pitti Immagine and La Rinascente Milan which was voted ‘the best department store in the world, 2016’. In June, the department store had a special pop-up store where limited editions of items with the BOOM PITTI BLOOMS graphics were sold. BOOM PITTI BLOOMS was also launched via a new digital art project which is a hint to new media communications.
for launching new projects in men’s fashion.
EXHIBITION TIMES 9 am – 6 pm last day: 9 am – 4 pm
REGISTRATION TIMES 8.30 am – 6pm last day: 8.30 am – 2 pm
PRE-REGISTRATION
This was a fair of happiness, colour, joy and hope of a bright future. If you are not sure how to say something to someone, why not say it with a flower?
8 Jan 2018 visitors: from 10 am to 8 pm exhibitors: from 8 am to 10 pm
BRANDING
& DESIGN
58
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING
& DESIGN
59
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
SHOP LINIE CLARA KAESDORF THE YOUNG-DESIGNER CONCEPT STORE “LINIE CLARA KAESDORF” IS LOCATED IN THE VERY CENTRE OF BERLIN
Shop owner and fashion designer Clara Kaesdorf opened the store in summer 2014 after many previous successful Pop-Up Stores. Alongside her own fashion pieces she exhibits jewellery, accessories and furniture by selected upcoming designers. The aim is to support small or less well-known brands to showcase their designers’ works and get to know their target group. As it is quite difficult for young designers to sell their pieces in centrally located stores -
and as most of them cannot afford their own store in the areas where the right people cross - Linie Clara Kaesdorf aims to fill that gap for both designers and their clients. For customers the store is a welcome alternative to the mainstream that most boutiques offer. They can be sure that their much-loved products will not be found all over the city. As the shop also includes Clara Kaesdorf’s studio, all clothes can be adjusted to the customers’ taste. Screen-prints are
BRANDING
& DESIGN
60
made in the showroom and cutting and sewing are processed in the presence of the customer. Most of the exhibiting designers are producing in such small quantities that customisations are more than welcome. For further information contact: www.clara-kaesdorf.com
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
CLARA KAESDORF SHOP Linien street 114 10115 Berlin-Mitte www.clara-kaesdorf.com
OPENING HOURS: MON-THU 11am - 7pm WEDNESDAY 11am - 5.30pm TUR-FRI 11am - 7pm SATURDAY 11am - 5pm
BRANDING
& DESIGN
61
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
Clara Kaesdorf runway show
BRANDING
& DESIGN
62
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
BARABAO
BARABAO HORNSGATAN 66 118 21 STOCKHOLM SWEDEN +46.8.643.7776 www.barobao.com
OPENING HOURS: MON-FRI
11.30am - 14pm | 17-22pm
SATURDAY 13 -16pm | 18 - 22pm SUNDAY 12 - 19pm
BRANDING
& DESIGN
63
At barobao we mainly prepare Taiwanese Gua Bao, steamed bread with various fillings. Our menu is based on what we can get in season and we constantly try to challenge ourselves to reach new tastes and new heights. We always have some other comfort dishes on the menu and strive to make things better and better with each menu change. We work with different techniques in the kitchen, but we look very much to the Japanese for inspiration and new ways to take us forward. It is difficult to describe barobao in words, but because we have our restaurant in the Nordic region, we obviously make use of these ingredients
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING
& DESIGN
65
TRENDSPOTTING
1 2
NILORN LOVES BERLIN A city full of creative designers and interesting products. We always love our inspiration trips to Berlin. Here is a selection from our latest visit.
3
4
6 5
FUNDAMENTAL.BERLIN - 1 MOIRE PENDANT LIGHT, NEST BOWL 5 HERAKLES TABLE 6 PUSH SOLO - www.fundamental.berlin CLARA KAESDORF - 3 LEATHER BELT 4 LEATHER-SHOPPER - www.clara-kaesdorf.com RADIAN - 2 3D RING - CALYX RING NO. 2, BRASS – GOLD PLATED - www.radian-jewelry.com
BRANDING
& DESIGN
68
SCAPA HOME
CONCEPT STORES KNOKKE Zeedijk 787
Arenbergstraat 12-14
ANTWERPEN
NIEUWPOORT
050 61 23 65
03 234 87 52
058 23 07 23
www.scapaworld.com
Albert I laan 237
WORDS: EVELYNN VERCAEMST
08.30 AM - BREAKFAST
First off, where will you be staying? Looking for somewhere central, calm and comfortable? The Michelberger Hotel has got you covered. Located between the Berlin Ostbahnhof station and the river Spree, this former factory building offers you a hipster chic sleeping spot, while also serving an exceptionally good breakfast buffet. Fuel up and hit the city. Warschauer Straße 39-40, www.michelbergerhotel.com
10.00 AM - HISTORY
If there is one thing that is present in Berlin no matter where you look, it is its defining past. Every inch of the city breathes history, with countless physical reminders leaving a subtle but strong mark on the presentday Berlin. The most iconic landmark is probably the once 155-kilometre-long Berlin Wall, which physically and ideologically cut off West Berlin from the rest of Germany for over 28 years. What remains today are 3 segments, with the 1.3-kilometrelong East Side Gallery in FriedrichshainKreuzberg being the most well known. This international memorial for freedom consists of 105 paintings from artists all over the world, communicating messages of hope, happiness and dreams for a better future. Located just around the corner from the Michelberger hotel, you can take a walk alongside the wall before heading into Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg, or opt for the Wall Museum should the weather let you down. Mühlenstraße 78-80, www.thewallmuseum.com
11.30 AM - ART
While on the go, make sure to look around and not miss the amazing street art Berlin has to offer. You could spend a whole day following tours around the most interesting murals, but if you keep your eyes peeled you can spot some real gems whilst walking from one place to another. 01.00 PM - LUNCH
Somewhat hidden between the high trees by the Landwehrkanal in Kreuzberg, restaurant Spindler offers a wide choice of delicious seasonal and regional dishes. The stunning historical building dates back to the GrĂźnderzeit in the mid-19th century, while the interior features a mix of antique and modern elements. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42-43, www.spindler-berlin.com
02.30 PM - DESSERT
Although the chocolate fondant at Spindler is heavenly, you would not want to miss Brammibal’s Vegan Donuts, located opposite Spindler on the other side of the Landwehrkanal. With flavours such as maple smoked coconut and brown butter rosemary, it is clear that Brammibal takes donuts to a whole new level. Maybachufer 8, www.brammibalsdonuts.com
03.00 PM - SHOP
Take a taxi and go explore the downtown fashion area, Berlin’s beating heart Mitte. With cool shops everywhere you look, it is a good place to wander around and squeeze some shopping into your trip. For dainty jewellery and exclusive garments by Berlinbased designers, Konk is the place to go. Further down the Auguststraße you will find April First, a contemporary concept store with carefully selected clothing, beauty and interior pieces. If you wish to spend some more time browsing Berlin’s boutiques, head to the Tiergarten area and visit Bikini Berlin, a quirky shopping center located almost inside the Berlin Zoo. It is in fact so close, you can drink your coffee while watching the monkeys leap from tree to tree. Bikini Berlin reinvented the traditional dull shopping centre and describes itself as a concept mall. Next to more traditional clothing stores, you will find dozens of art exhibitions and cool pop-up shops such as LNFA and STUDIO183. Kleine Hamburger Straße 15, www.konk-berlin.de Auguststraße 77, www.aprilfirst.de Budapester Straße 38-50, www.bikiniberlin.de
05.00 PM - ARCHITECTURE
When walking from Mitte to Tiergarten, you can take a lovely stroll through the western part of the Mitte district, which houses monumental buildings such as the Brandenburg Gate, the Holocaust Memorial and the Reichstag. Although more touristy attractions, they are Berlin’s most prominent historical landmarks, while also being truly impressive on the architectural front. The 26-metre-high gate, the 2,711 concrete slabs and the 3,000 square metre large glass dome make for an unmissable trio of monumental architecture, nestled at the edge of the Tiergarten park. Platz der Republik 1; Pariser Platz; Cora-Berliner-Straße 1
ARTICLE
07.00 PM - DINNER
Berlin delights its visitors with a broad culinary diversity. Two great dinner places within walking distance from the Michelberger hotel are Seoulkitchen, which serves you delicious Korean barbecue and sushi in an atmospheric setting, and Long March Canteen, offering an exquisite South Chinese cuisine, surrounded by humid steam and pink neon lamps. Warschauer Straße 46, www.seoulkitchen.de Wrangelstraße 20, www.longmarchcanteen.com
So, what else do you need to know about Berlin? It has around 1,700 bridges - easily beating even Venice - and with 44 percent of the city being parks, woods or rivers, it is by far the greenest city in Germany. But there is so much more to Berlin. Go see for yourself and enjoy the amazing atmosphere. Tschüss!
BRANDING
& DESIGN
77
Discover the new Mayerline Fall-Winter 2017 collection ! Now available in stores and on www.mayerline.be
Strøget, København | Rødovre Centrum | Københavns Lufthavn, Kastrup | City 2, Tåstrup | Lyngby Storcenter | Frederiksberg Centret | Strøget, Aarhus | A.K. Kaufmann, Kastrup | Kolding Storcenter | Field’s | Kongensgade 49, Esbjerg | Rosengårdcentret, Odense | Aalborg Storcenter | Storcenter Nord, Aarhus | Slotsarkaderne, Hillerød | Bryggen, Vejle | herningCentret | Waves
www.kaufmann.dk
ARTICLE
BEHIND THE COLLECTIONS Twice a year, the Nilorn design team brings out ten new creative collections. What is the process behind those finished concepts of labels, buttons and hangtags? How do the designers work and what inspires them? WORDS: EVELYNN VERCAEMST
Inspiration can be found everywhere. From interesting colour combinations in the street to an unusual branding approach that triggers new ideas. To aid this creative flow and stimulate the diversity of influences, the designers from the UK, Sweden, Belgium, Germany and Denmark head off on inspiration trips several times a year. The minimalist style of Stockholm, the edgy vibe of Berlin or the cool mix of cultures in New York - every city is a new inspirational playground for the designers.
seize the moment. With no pictures available of any of the rooms or art installations, THE HAUS made for a unique and unrecorded experience leaving only memories for those who managed to visit. With all of this inspiration soaked up during their trips, the designers start working on the new collections. Sometimes they get clear ideas straight away, at other times it is a certain feeling or vision that might not get translated into a collection for a few seasons to come. They also get ideas and suggestions from the sales team, who might want to present a certain technique or material to their customers.
The design team gets exploring with an extensive list of interesting art galleries, intriguing architecture and quirky restaurants. They also pop into local stores and boutiques to have a look at branding ideas from different clothing brands.
At the beginning of the design process, the designers meet up at Nilorn headquarters in BorĂĽs, Sweden. They help each other out with tips and feedback and make sure no similar items are being included in the collections. In February and August, the design team finally gets to share the finished collections with everyone at Nilorn, along with customers and prospects. This usually leads to new insights and new requests, providing the designers with plenty of inspiration for the next collections.
Besides that, they try to keep an eye out for special events or temporary galleries. During the Berlin trip, an old bank office was turned into the art project THE HAUS a few months before it was going to be demolished. 165 artists each got a room and the freedom to go beyond their imagination to turn the room into an extraordinary experience that would astonish those visiting the final result. Focusing on the transience of the concept, visitors had to leave their phone in a sealed bag and truly
You will find our latest collections on page 84-111
BRANDING
& DESIGN
80
ARTICLE
Mouche Gallery at Rodeo Drive, LA I Design team in New York I Gallery in Chelsea, New York I Design meeting at our Head office in Sweden I Art project THE HOUSE in Berlin I Opening Ceremony, New York
BRANDING
& DESIGN
82
ANTWERPEN BRUGGE BRUSSEL GENT HASSELT KNOKKE KORTRIJK NAMEN WATERLOO
DISCOVER OUR ONLINE STORE WWW.XANDRES.COM
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
Eccentricity is our identity. Sometimes you just want to walk your own way, create your own path instead of choosing the one travelled so many times before. Create your own style that clearly states to the world who you really are - someone unique instead of a copy. Make a complete mash-up of the quirky and the chic and conjure up your own fashion identity - but at the same time stay true to your roots. Layers and kitsch style are elements to be worn with pride. Precious Oddity – our first, middle and last name.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
84
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
17:2 DESIGN COLLECTION
CREATIVE LABELS AND BRANDING On the following pages, we present our latest design collections. Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level. We are always on the lookout for new materials and production techniques, whilst continuing to finetune the interaction between design, production and logistics. In this issue we asked photographer Olof Händén together with the stylist Gorjan Lauseger, to interpret one of our latest collections, ’Luca Ghini’.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
85
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
86
PHOTO: OLOF HÄNDÉN STYLING: GORJAN LAUSEGER
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
89
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
91
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
92
Photo Olof Händén Styling Gorjan Lauseger Hair/ Make up Sanne Anndriani Model Astrid Eika Le Management
The model is wearing clothes from a variety of brands:
GUCCI TIGER OF SWEDEN ELLOS PART TWO HUNKYDORY H&M GINA TRICOT LINDEX LEVIS DAGMAR SCOTCH & SODA OTHER STORIES PRIMARK ETC.
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
96
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
Life is a party and you are definitely invited. A modern-day dandy with a glorious nod to history - when having a good time was the ultimate philosophy and a cocktail the accessory above all. Style is something you are born with and class comes naturally to you. Bill Cassady provides you with the finishing touches to an already perfect package. Quality and luxury exist in everything - in every stitch, in every yarn, right down to the buttons. Be our guest.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
97
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
Let sophistication envelop you. Cactea exists with the mission of giving women beautiful pieces of clothing and accessories that speak to you. The classical style of Chanel is our beacon of inspiration when it comes to creating coveted goods that you want to wear. Elegance and fashion are part of our DNA - and we know that it is a language that you understand completely. Design – for life.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
98
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
99
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
100
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
The Northern Hemisphere is the stage where we lay our scene. Canadian ancestry mixed with the aesthetics of Norwegian outerwear is a winning combination to create clothing to the highest standards. Nature is an ever-present theme in everything that Norka does and is something that can never be compromised. Let the wind rush, let the water flow and the trees carry the voice of our brand - a song that is reflected in everything we create. Norka - when you want things to last.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
101
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
Straightforward Style. A capsule wardrobe with something quintessentially feminine - to be worn by you. To be adapted into your own style at the same time as you make your mark on the world. Trends may come and go but style is eternal. Always be straightforward and self-reliant in the uniform that you create. Nine Essentials work to the philosophy that the feeling above all should be one that resonates design and quality. The key to timeless essentials is sustainability. Personality, Power, Pride.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
102
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
103
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
104
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
Only the courageous are able to see the valley beyond the mountain. With a zest for life and an open mind, Harry Fitzroy conquered the world. His creative spirit is imprinted in the goods that bear this brand. Natural colours and high quality speak his language across the mountains, the valleys and across the seas. An unprecedented style that speaks volumes. A message from ’down under’ to have the guts to go out and grab life with both hands and demand it to pay attention to who you are and where you are going. Life is made to experience.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
105
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
106
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
When speed is part of the equation. Performing your athletic exercises in nature is a movement that is growing. We are seeking harmony with our surroundings - where body, mind and nature strive to become one. When you are testing your own limits as an athlete, your performance is dependent on the material of your gear. The technical solutions in material and manufacture can help take you to the next level - and get you one step closer to your goal. Cool colours and bold prints set you apart.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
107
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
108
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
Silence can speak volumes. Casual London style with a twist of Swedish heritage. A combination that creates a story of making unique clothes. The Swedish element contributes the organic and clean look to the equation - while London creates a cosmopolitan feel that never can be emulated. The UK capital has a distinguished blend of history and modern, youthful energy. Combine that with the minimalistic culture and philosophy of Sweden and Tystnad has created something that will give you a unique voice - without having to say a single word.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
109
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
BRANDING
& DESIGN
110
DESIGN COLLECTIONS
Denim, with the wings of history. Denim is more than just style and fabric - it is a way of life, a philosophy. With the long running history of Bedrock Mills you get something more than a piece of clothing. You get a piece of the legacy. Something that shows who you are, who you always aspire to be and what you inspire others to be. The feeling of denim against your skin is for more than just the purpose of shielding yourself against the effects of nature. Denim - life and beyond.
BRANDING
& DESIGN
111
ARTICLE
For the fourth year in a row, the team at Nilorn Belgium presented their new design collections, while offering clients and prospects so much more than just a standard presentation. Brewery De Koninck in Antwerp proved to be the perfect location for this unique experience. WORDS: EVELYNN VERCAEMST
BRANDING
& DESIGN
112
ARTICLE
17th February 2017, 11.15 am. The first guests arrive, glancing at the big copper brew kettles before following the Nilorn signs up to a light-flooded room on the first floor. Under the windows reaching up to the ceiling, nine music stands display the new collection books. Each one is accompanied by a side table on which all of the labels, buttons and hangtags are laid out for the guests to explore. From the colourful kids collection ‘Sprout’ to the high performance sports theme ‘Effort’, each collection
features a fully thought-out concept with dozens of items providing inspiration for upcoming branding projects. Along with displaying their own design collections, Nilorn Belgium invited Color Passport to the event. An interesting talk by CEO Bart Van Tigchelt and trend watcher Regine Dhaene underlined the importance of using the right colours for your brand and marketing strategy. Visitors were also welcome to have an individual colour
BRANDING
& DESIGN
113
analysis done and take their personal colour passport home with them. Italian leather supplier Okinawa provided a brand new collection book to show the highest quality in leather trimmings to the numerous guests from the fashion, denim, advertising and music industries. After a delicious lunch, guests were welcomed downstairs at the entrance of the brewery tour. An interactive and exciting journey through the history of De Koninck and the
ARTICLE
city of Antwerp unveiled the origin of the iconic Bolleke and surprised beer lovers with interesting facts on the brewing process. Lastly, a brewery tour would not be complete without a little tasting session of the beers De Koninck offers. A pint of Wild Jo, Triple d’Anvers or Bolleke? Cheers! With every event, the team at Nilorn Belgium sets the bar a little higher, aiming to surprise customers and prospects with their continuous drive, creativity and innovation. See you next year?
BRANDING
& DESIGN
114
PANTONE 9242 C 13-1405 TPG CMYK 8, 19, 17, 0
ARTICLE
PANTONE 9242 U 12-1206 TPG CMYK 6, 23, 20, 0 BRANDING
& DESIGN
117
j e c ke r s o n .c o m
DYSIGN 5-7 SEPT 2017 INTERNATIONAL FABRIC TRADE FAIR
FABRI CS | ADDITIONALS | BLUEZ O NE | KEYH O USE | D ESI GN ST UD I O S | A SI A SA LO N M U N I C H F A B RIC S TA RT.C O M | # M U N IC H FA B RIC S TA RT
ARTICLE
Happy Birthday Terre Bleue ALL ABOUT THE KNOW-WHY For a company that revolves around branding and design, there is no better client than one that consistently starts with the ‘why’ of everything they do. So it’s no wonder we have a serious soft spot for Terre Bleue…
WORDS: STEPHANIE DUVAL
Ever since the ‘Start With Why’ movement Simon Sinek started with his clever book and TED talk, ‘asking why’ has become the new thing managers like to throw around. But very few companies actually commit to it and even fewer companies have had it at the heart of their strategy for decades. Terre Bleue is a beloved Belgian fashion brand that has conquered many women’s hearts and wardrobes, but it is an even more inspiring example of how a company can thrive for more than three generations: not with explosive growth or megalomaniac ambition, but with thoughtful and considered management. Like we said – there is nothing Nilorn loves more than a company like that. If ‘asking why’ is at the very core of your brand’s mission,
then nothing the brand does is by chance. Deeply rooted and firm beliefs guide the way in everything from product design to the very last details of the packaging - and that’s how we like it. CEO Dirk Perquy and Marketing Manager Liesbeth De Keyser made time for a little chat about their upcoming birthday celebrations, a capsule collection that is centred around strong and inspiring women, and – of course – the why that started it all. CHEERS TO THE FUTURE
Terre Bleue is celebrating its 15th birthday this year, but instead of throwing a lavish party and garnering as many celebrityendorsed-selfies as possible, the brand is
BRANDING
& DESIGN
122
taking a much cooler and more introspective approach. “We thought this birthday was a good occasion to really hone in on that mission of putting our ‘know-why’ front and centre in everything we do”, explains Dirk Perquy. “But in reality we have been working on this diligently for the past couple of decades.” Perquy’s ‘why’ wasn’t inspired by today’s hipster management guru’s, it’s always been a part of his management style. “Our heritage as a company, that has been around for nearly four generations, is heavily focused on matching quality and creativity. But as a company, we have also always been focused on why clothing is such an important part of people’s lives. So as a brand, but also as a company, we have always had the mission to devote at least as
ARTICLE
»THE TRUTH IS, COMPANY LEADERSHIP HASN’T CHANGED MUCH OVER THE PAST 100 YEARS, BUT THE WORLD HAS CHANGED DRAMATICALLY.”
much time and energy to our know-why as to our know-how”, says the CEO. Inspiring as that already sounds, we wouldn’t want to keep from you Perquy’s favourite anecdote that not only illustrates the why of his clothing company, but also the way he realised its purpose: “We were taking a hiking holiday in Peru years ago…” He tells the story in a way that betrays the routine – he’s told this story on many occasions – but still his enthusiasm as he relives the memory is palpable through the computer screen that facilitates our interview. “Hiking from one valley to the next, climbing and descending the peak that separates them, we realised the women who lived on the opposite sides dressed in a way that was distinctly different from the way women dressed in the other valley. There was a recognisability to either side: a way in which the women expressed their belonging to their community. On the other hand, none of these women within one valley were dressed exactly the same: they also used their clothing as a means to differentiate themselves and express their personality. Witnessing such a beautiful example within a society that is relatively pure compared to the rest of the world’s fashion industry and dynamics, I realised the true meaning and value of clothing as a medium through which to associate ourselves with our tribe, and differentiate ourselves from other members in that tribe.” Having found the meaning and the purpose to his company, didn’t mean Perquy sat back, thinking he had it figured out. “My job as a CEO is to build a vision day by day: always adding a little more detail or sculpting ideas a little more clearly. It might be a result of my Jesuit
education: I was trained to always question everything”, he says. In doing so, the CEO is not afraid to seek advice and inspiration from his peers: “I was greatly inspired by Etion, a Belgian organisation that brings together decision makers to create a space for them to think about the future and longterm strategies. Starting from an integrated view that focuses on three words: human company – society, Etion is convinced that value-based entrepreneurship is needed for sustainable success. The truth is, company leadership hasn’t changed much over the past 100 years, but the world has changed dramatically. We need to be thinking about and experimenting with new ways of managing companies.” Translated to Terre Bleue’s goals it means the brand is focusing on its relationship with its employees and its customers, through improving ‘customer intimacy.’ Says Perquy: “We are hiring new talent and are working less and less in a traditional hierarchy. Yet we also invest in our existing team, because it is not always easy for them to adapt and change their mind-set. We always offer them the chance to change and grow with us, and we help and coach them if needed. It’s a conscious decision to build and maintain our company in a very deliberate way.”
BRANDING
& DESIGN
124
ARTICLE
BRANDING
& DESIGN
125
ARTICLE
Peter Perquy, Maryse Poivre, Dirk Perquy, Maureen De Clercq
BRANDING
& DESIGN
126
ARTICLE
IDENTITY VERSUS DNA
Marketing Manager Liesbeth De Keyser is one of those fresh new faces at Terre Bleue, and to say she’s on board with the vision and philosophy articulated by Dirk Perquy, is an understatement. She speaks enthusiastically, but at the same time is down to earth – embodying perhaps a perfect example of the Terre Bleue woman. She explains how Terre Bleue will be launching a capsule collection for its 15th anniversary, but is quick to add “a capsule collection is nothing new; it’s been done before.” Yet again, Terre Bleue manages to differentiate from the herd, by using the capsule collection as a clever tool to colour a bit outside of the lines of the brand’s identity, without touching its DNA. “Our Head Designer Maryse Poivre has been with the company for over 25 years, which is rather unique in the fashion business. It has
BRANDING
guaranteed a certain continuity in quality, identity and style”, explains De Keyser. “This stability is definitely a very strong attribute to Terre Bleue, but at the same time we have to be creative enough to inspire our consumers every season again. It’s important to reinvent who we are from time to time, and a capsule collection seemed like the perfect way to keep the balance between the two opposite directions.” For the special collection, Terre Bleue invited Belgian fashion designer Maureen De Clercq to work alongside Maryse Poivre. De Keyser describes the collection as “a surprising Terre Bleue collection.” Meaning it is still unmistakably Terre Bleue, but just a little bit different. “We looked for a long time before we settled on a designer to work with”, adds the marketing pro. “We definitely didn’t want to go for a well-known or pretty
& DESIGN
127
ARTICLE
face who had no background in actual design: that would never work with our unwavering commitment to quality. Then we met Maureen De Clercq, who I consider as more than a designer: she is also an Art Director and a coach for many young fashion talents, so she has the expertise and a perfect understanding of how creativity and a commercial reality can come together. She might not be known outside of the fashion circle, but to us it was more important to collaborate with a credible, experienced designer.” “We also didn’t want to put these clothes on just any model – we wanted to look for a muse who could truly inspire us, and our audience in turn. We looked at a lot of local celebrities, but the match just never seemed to ring true – until we considered Lize Feryn”, says De Keyser. At 23, Feryn is not a household name just yet, but it’s no surprise Terre Bleue finds her so inspiring. “She’s already done so many things with her life. She’s an actress, an author and an entrepreneur – she launched a leather accessories brand with her sisters. Of course it helps that she is a devastatingly beautiful model too, but she really is the complete package.” She pauses, then adds: “She is on the brink of making it into the big leagues and we are convinced she has a very bright future ahead of her.” It’s hard to imagine a better ending to our interview and this article, because it’s easy to imagine a similar fate for Terre Bleue. Though well past the status of young ingénue, the brand’s star shines equally bright and promising as an example of meaningful entrepreneurship and thoughtful branding. For further information contact: www.terrebleue.com
BRANDING
& DESIGN
128
RECAP
CLIQUE CL 102
EDITH EDI 113
RUIM RU 1009
TRUE GENES TG 009
WOOSTER WO 109
URBAN SAINTS US 1013 URBAN SAINTS US 1008
VICTORY V 111
BENJAMINA BEN 102
BRANDING
& DESIGN
130
BROWN SUGAR BSCO 110
RECAP
EDITH EDI 114
LA BOHEME WARDROBE WJJ 104
VIZZINI VIZ 105
LB 105
GEORGES LEROUX GLX 111
I KID YOU NOT KYN 104
JAY/BE JB 111
CURTIS & SON
WAKEFIELD WAK 012
AMELIA AM 006
BRANDING
& DESIGN
131
CUR 11
A LITTLE WRINKLE IS A GOOD THING!
LOVELY MISTY DAWN BEDSET 100% LINEN WITH A SOFT AND MORE AIRY WEAVE LOVELY VELVET CHUSION GREY
KARDELEN.SE
WWW.MASAI.NET
SCAPA HOME
KNOKKE Zeedijk 787
ANTWERPEN
Arenbergstraat 12-14
NIEUWPOORT
050 61 23 65
03 234 87 52
058 23 07 23
www.scapaworld.com
Albert I laan 237