A
PUB LICATI ON
FROM
NI LORN
WO R LDWI DE
LATEST COLLECTIONS INSIDE
CIRCULAR FASHION BRANDING DESIGN FOR CIRCULARITY
N o.
2/ 2019
COVER ILLUSTRATION
Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands by using branding
Illustrator Elin Sandström
and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion and ready-
Söderberg Agentur
to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding, design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore important to establish,
PAPER
maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European
Cover Scandia 2000 White 300g
players, with turnover of ca 60 M EUR0. The group operates through its own companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United
Body Tom & Otto silk 150g
Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India, China, Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy. In addition, there
Uncoated Amber Graphic 150g
are partner companies in Switzerland, Tunisia and USA.
Print Stema Specialtryck AB, Borås, Sweden
N VA
ENMÄRK
Trycksak 3041 0234
E T
S
www.nilorn.com
“I’m so happy with DEUX! Every single outfit is stylish and strong and soft and sensual at the same time, with a sexy intriguing touch. As a woman, you want to show your soft side as well as your sexy side. You are ‘les DEUX.” Xx Eline
ZEB.BE
EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT ZEB
©M.SANDINHA
w w w.armorlux.com
CONTENTS
CONTENTS
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WELCOME Dear Reader
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FSC™ It all starts with a tree
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HÖÖKS A history that stretches three generations and two centuries
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NILORN WORLDWIDE Nilorn´s head office expands
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WHAT YOUTH FOR CLIMATE CAN TEACH US Gen Z is leading the fight against the status quo
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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT Around the world
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PREMIERE VISION Nilorn Belgium
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PANTONE Coated / Uncoated
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MUNICH FABRIC START The Venue
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19:2 DESIGN COLLECTIONS Product development and fashion shoot
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COMEBACK Nilorn designing for circularity
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CIRCULAR FASHION Interview with Ina Budde, founder of circular.fashion
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INSPIRATION TRIP Sustainable mindset
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LASCANA It´s a womans world
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TRENDSPOTTING Push the limits
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TRAMAROSSA Interview with Sales Director, Jean Michel Wohlmann
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DEEP INTO Recycling Plastic
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KARL WHO? Mr Lagerfeld
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PANTONE Coated / Uncoated
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RECAP Zipper puller collection by Nilorn
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HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel: +46 33 700 88 00 Fax:+46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com
NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax: +49 2103 908 16 - 99 info@de.nilorn.com
BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel: +41 62 855 27 50 Fax: +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com
NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com
NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Plot 1361, 5th and 6th fl. Avenue 10 Mirpur DOHS Dhaka -1216 BANGLADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com
NILORN ITALY Via del Bramante 34 41012 Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com
NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Kongensgade 31B 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel: +45 70 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +852 2 371 2218 Fax: +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com
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NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax:+92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 701, 288, Chengjiaqiao Road. Minhang District, Shanghai, CHINA Poastal Code 201103 Tel: +86-21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com
NILORN TURKEY Baģlar Manhallesi 49 Sokak No: 50 K:3 Baģcilar/Istanbul TURKEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD Station Works Greens Mill Court Cononley N Yorks BD20 8FE UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44 1535 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN USA LLC 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 888-315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com
– 2019 –
Dear Reader In your hand, or reading on a screen for that matter, you have the 2nd edition of our Branding & Design magazine for 2019. Time really flies and we concentrate on the past and present while keeping an eye on the future. In this edition we highlight various aspects of our company and the world around us. Often areas that affect the few also affect the many. We have an article that touches on this subject with a piece on Anuna De Wever, who is known as the Belgian equivalent of Greta Thunberg. On the same theme we also have an interview with Ina Budde about circular fashion. We present a piece on Karl Lagerfeld, the designer genius, who sadly left us in February this year. The outspoken and sometimes controversial man left an undeniable legacy working with many brands - the crowning jewel being Head Designer for Chanel since 1983. You can enjoy the article on the inspirational journey by train of our design teams that visited the vibrant, cosmopolitan cities of London, Paris and Berlin and a piece on the highly successful company Hööks. Nilorn’s latest product developments are also showacsed, with our new design concepts and a presentation of a colleague in a new position of responsibility. As always Nilorn stands ready to help you utilise your brand’s strengths in combination with our long-standing experience in the world of branding and design.
All the best,
Claes af Wetterstedt CEO
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RICCOVERO CONCEPT STORE WOMAN & MAN
|
WWW.RICCOVERO.NO
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ARTICLE
IT ALL STARTS WITH A TREE We sell many products made out of paper and most paper originates from trees. The world’s paper use is steadily increasing, year on year, and exceeds 400 million tonnes each year. More than half of this consumption occurs in China, the USA and Japan - with a further quarter in Europe. One important part of the sustainability agenda is to find and use paper from sustainable sources.
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“HAVING OUR FSC™ CHAIN OF CUSTODY CERTIFICATE HELPS US TO PROVIDE RESPONSIBLY SOURCED PAPER PRODUCTS TO OUR CLIENTS”
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THE FOREST STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL™ The Forest Stewardship Council™ (FSC™) is a global, not-for-profit organisation dedicated to the promotion of responsible forest management worldwide. It was established in 1993, as a response to concerns regarding global deforestation. FSC defines standards based on agreed principles for responsible forest stewardship that are supported by environmental, social, and economic stakeholders. FSC respects traditional rights, works for fair working conditions, works with environmentally sound methods and with procedures that provide transparency and opportunity to influence. Illegally harvested forest raw materials must not be present in FSC-labelled products. Currently, over 190 million hectares of forest are FSC™ certified, in over 80 countries worldwide. FSC-certified forestry has helped to improve a number of environmental indicators in the forest such as dead wood, the protection of key biotopes and phasing out of chemicals in forestry. FSC™ provides Chain of Custody standards for manufacturers and processors of forest products. The Chain of Custody standards allow credible tracking of
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certified wood and wood products from certified forests through trade and manufacturing to committed retailers and consumers. Nilorn East Asia has been the FSC certificate holder since 2013 (FSC™ C116844). The FSC™ logo and label is used by our clients to denote that the product is sourced from supplier who is the FSC™ certificate holder and can be tracked throughout the production process. THE FSC™ LABELS The products that bear an FSC label has to go through a “chain of custody” from the forest to the manufacturer, the merchant and finally, to the printer, when applicable. Independent, third-party auditors conduct chain-ofcustody assessments of companies that would like to achieve FSC certification. A properly labelled product shall both carry the FSC™ trademark and the license number.
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THERE ARE THREE TYPES OF FSC™ ON-PRODUCT LABELS:
Only material/fibres from FSC™-certified forests have been used for this product.
The forest-based material in this product is recycled.
FSC™-certified product.
This product is made of material from well-managed FSC™-certified forests, recycled materials, and other controlled sources.
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CHOOSING FSC™ SUPPORTS RESPONSIBLE FOREST MANAGEMENT The FSC™ label is well recognised across the world, it is a symbol of a respected forest certification scheme. We see an increased interest from clients in using FSC certified paper. With our FSC certificate for Nilorn East Asia and Nilorn Shanghai we report the delivered quantities to the FSC Secretariat. There was a 30% increase in the amount of FSC labelled products sold in 2018 and FSC certified paper’s share of the paper product groups was 13%. We see the same trend in the production of FSC labelled products produced at external production units, but this statistic we are not able to follow with our current business system. The proportion of FSC-certified forests and the number of FSC-labelled products is rapidly increasing worldwide. The total number of FSC Chain of Custody certificates issued worldwide is over 37 000.
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FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT FSC™ https://ic.fsc.org/en
A HISTORY THAT STRETCHES THREE GENERATIONS AND TWO CENTURIES
“OUR EXPERTISE LIES IN A COMBINATION OF COMMERCIAL ABILITY, A HIGH LEVEL OF COMPETENCE AND A PASSION FOR EQUESTRIAN”
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The history of Hööks began in 1931 when a small saddlery was founded in the town of Eksjö in Småland. Oscar Wearn, the stepfather of Bengt Höök, would not have predicted that what he had started would develop into Scandinavia’s largest and leading company in the equestrian industry. Although the road to get there was not straight forward. In the 1950s, the prerequisites for the saddlery changed drastically when Sweden became more and more motorised. The horse played a lesser part in society and it would take many years before the tide changed. But at the start of the 1970s, something happened that dramatically changed the small company - riding and equestrian sport changed from a rare phenomenon to become a popular sport. Bengt Höök who was a travelling salesman of horse equipment during the 1970s, bought the company from his stepfather, Oscar Wearn. The year was 1976. The foundation for Hööks equestrian sport was laid and the journey to becoming Scandinavia’s leading company in equestrian sport started. Today the company is led by the third generation, Joachim Höök, grandson of Oscar Wearn. Roughly 80 years after the company started it now resides in Borås, with over 360 dedicated co-workers and a turnover of 500 million Swedish crowns. The future looks more exciting than ever.
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INTERVIEW
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ARE THERE ANY TRENDS THAT YOU SEE ON THE MARKET? For a long time, Hööks has worked with getting the rider to think about how he or she dresses. Riding is a sport and we need to have functional clothes. Recently we have seen that more and more take to the functional products. We can also see that more and more brands follow our lead.
WHICH IS YOUR BESTSELLING PRODUCT?
WHAT HAS MADE HÖÖKS TO WHAT IT IS TODAY?
We have large product knowledge and competence among our staff when it comes to our field of expertise. A fun fact is that our co-workers own 487 horses and 306 dogs in total.
HOW MUCH OF YOUR SALES ARE MADE IN SHOPS VERSUS ONLINE? About 85% in shops and 15% online. Sales in shops are stable but online sales has a higher level of growth.
HOW MANY SHOPS DO YOU HAVE AND IN WHICH COUNTRIES? 53 shops in total. 35 in Sweden, 8 in Norway, 7 in Finland and 3 in Denmark.
WHAT IS THE TYPICAL HÖÖKS CONSUMER LIKE? Hööks has a wide target group. We have clients on all levels. Everyone from beginners to the elite. Riders who do dressage, jumping or western - and riders of all kinds of horses. We can see that the largest group is the one that call themselves competition riders – both on a local and regional level.
IN WHICH COUNTRIES DO YOU PRODUCE THE LARGEST AMOUNTS OF GOODS? In China and India.
INTERVIEW
We have a legacy of knowledge, product development and code of service that stretches back around 80 years. We were the first to build a retail chain within equestrian sport. When it comes to web sales we were also pioneers and the first company offering the market fashionable products with the highest value and the best price. Our expertise lies in a combination of commercial ability, a high level of competence and a passion for equestrian and dog sport.
The one we sell the most of every year is spikes. Another big seller is horse riding trousers.
WHAT DOES SUSTAINABILITY MEAN TO YOU? For us the term has a wide meaning. There are so many aspects in a business that is intertwined with sustainability, everything from what electrical power we use to how our products are being shipped. If we concentrate on the actual products we design, manufacture and sell, the starting point is that they are going to be long lasting. According to life cycle analysis that has been carried out by RISE in Gothenburg, you have to look at the whole chain - the entire lifespan of the product. It is not only about creating a product from recycled polyester or ecologically grown cotton, which we often see on the market. Which materials you use are of course important, but it is even more important to have control over the entire production process. The production of a fabric for instance consists of a lot of steps where a lot of chemicals, water and energy are used. This part of the life cycle is the part which has the single most impact on the environment together with how long we use the product and washing etc. Besides trying to manufacture products that are long lasting Hööks focuses mainly on which chemicals are used in the production process of the different materials. It is through these two key areas that we think that we can make the best impact for the environment and sustainability.
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“SUSTAINABILITY IS NOT ONLY TO CREATE A PRODUCT IN ECO COTTON OR RECYCLED POLYESTER, YOU NEED TO HAVE CONTROL OF THE ENTIRE PRODUCTION PROCESS, YOU HAVE TO LOOK AT THE ENTIRE LIFESPAN OF THE PRODUCT”
BRANDING, WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO WORK WITH NILORN?
INTERVIEW
Branding is also a wide term. Everything from the design of our webpage to the smaller details like how our buttons, labels and packages look. Many times, you have the resources to look at the big picture but lose sight of the smaller details. Our branding project which was launched a few years ago entailed taking a look at our logotypes, colours, labels, buttons and so on. Something that is very important in making the product into the best it can be. Nilorn has a good reputation when it comes to these things and has an excellent track record. It was a relatively easy decision to use Nilorn as a partner in this project.
DO YOU HAVE ANY GOOD EXAMPLES OF A SUCCESSFUL VENTURE WITH NILORN? We are now in the process of looking over all of our brands. The JH Collection is one of them. JH targets a rider who wants better quality. A couple of years ago we felt that we were stuck in a particular design pattern, colour scheme and choice of materials. We felt that we could do so much more. We invested time in analysing what kind of products that were in demand. More modern colours and a different level of quality but more functional materials. Together with Nilorn we created a new logotype and a new expression on all accessories. In Fall 2018 we launched the whole concept and we were very pleased with the new design and the sales. Already the first season we increased the sales of JH Collection by over 26%.
WHAT DOES THE FUTURE LOOK LIKE, WHICH AREAS ARE YOUR PRIORITY AND WHY? The future looks bright. We have many projects in the pipeline and sales for Spring 2019 look better than we had anticipated. We have recently been bought by Jula and an increased growth is an area of priority. We are also looking to open more shops and to enter new markets.
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NILORN WORLDWIDE
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NILORN WORLDWIDE
SWEDEN
NILORN WORLDWIDE all lights on
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NILORN’S HEAD OFFICE EXPANDS NILORN WORLDWIDE
- MAKING A LARGER MARK BY PATRICK HJÉRTEN
In 2015 Nilorn moved its head office to a new location, the stunning site where it
resides today. We wrote about the move and the new office in this magazine
in 2016 - let us do a little recap. The Katrineberg Mansion’s history dates back to 1772 when it was built by the order of mayor Georg Tollstorp. When the mayor died in 1803 the property was bought by Chief Judge Storkirch who added two wings to the property. The main building was sadly destroyed in a fire in the late 1820s but was rebuilt in 1856 by merchant A. Lindgren.
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The mansion is a beautiful setting which lends creative energy to the Nilorn staff as they cater to the needs of clients around the globe. During recent years Nilorn has gone from strength to strength when it comes to increasing revenues and expansion into new markets. Great Britain and Germany are two countries outside of Scandinavia that are big markets for Nilorn and ever growing. The Netherlands, Spain and Italy are also areas where Nilorn is growing their presence and taking market shares due to their design solutions and logistical efficiency. With success and progress comes change and Nilorn needed to expand and make more room for a thriving business. Since Katrineberg has historical value there are rules and regulations that need to be adhered to. Therefore, Nilorn had to erect a building that was aligned with the existing environment. It has been done beautifully in a mix of the old and new - you could imagine that it has been stood there for years instead of being a new addition. Today, when you look straight up at the main building you now see a red structure next to the right wing.
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NILORN WORLDWIDE
The Autumn view from our garden back in 2018 when construction started on the new building
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Showroom
This is the new home of Nilorn’s economic and financial department, moving from the left wing which has now been transformed into a showroom.
NILORN HEADQUARTERS
The total number of employees within the group is ca 500 persons, but only 44 are employed in Sweden, including the Head Office. This shows that Nilorn, despite its relatively
Here our clients and other interested parties of Nilorn will get the opportunity to explore the creative branding work that Nilorn provides to customers from an array of different businesses.
small size, is a very international group with a tight overhead organisation.
Nilörngruppen AB is a support and service organisation to the rest of the group with functions such as Management, IT, RIS (Retail Information Services), Design and Finance. The functions at Nilörn AB are Sales, Back Office, Procurement, Design/ original and Finance. The Swedish office has a balanced split of male and female staff with 19 men and 17 women.
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FREDRIK CLASON - THE NEWLY APPOINTED GROUP SALES MANAGER AT NILORN Fredrik Clason had worked for Nilorn for many years as a sales person and project manager. He has recently taken on a new challenge and a new role within the organisation as Group Sales Manager. As a long-time member of the Nilorn team, he has extensive knowledge of the different aspects of the company which will lend itself well to his new position.
WHY DID YOU WANT TO WORK AT NILORN?
INTERVIEW
It so happens that our former CFO is a good friend of mine and through her I found out that Nilorn was looking for a sales person/project manager. That was back in 2006 and I had recently moved to BorĂĽs. Before that, I lived in Stockholm where I combined economic studies (majoring in marketing), with working as a steward at Scandinavian Airlines. At the first meeting I already felt that the job at Nilorn would be something that I would really enjoy. Sales and project management focusing on clients in the fashion industry was a good combination when taking into account my earlier work experience, education and interests. I thrive on collaboration with clients where we create products together that will strengthen their image and brand.
NILORN NOW HAS A PRESENCE IN 15 COUNTRIES. WHERE DO YOU SEE THE BIGGEST POTENTIAL? If we look outside of Scandinavia, we have had great development in recent years and we see continued big potential for growth. Besides Sweden, Great Britain and Germany have grown to be our most important markets. Here we see potential to grow further and we also have great hopes for Spain where there is exciting development.
HOW DO YOU VIEW OUR MARKET POSITION – POSSIBILITIES AND CHALLENGES? From my view point I think that we have a very good platform towards mid-size and large companies and there I see good potential to attract more clients. We live in a time of change where a lot of brands are struggling, and it is hard to predict what the future will look like.
THERE ARE LOT OF THINGS HAPPENING IN RETAIL AROUND THE WORLD. HOW DO YOU THINK THAT AFFECTS NILORN AND WHAT SHOULD WE DO TO ENSURE PROSPEROUS FUTURE DEVELOPMENT? It is a difficult and challenging question and we also see our clients have the same struggles about figuring out what the future holds. For us it is naturally important to be responsive and flexible to our clients needs. Our mission is to be a strong partner to our clients that simplifies their entire business. Therefore, it is important that we further our knowledge about the services we supply. The clients should always feel secure in being able to put trust in us when it comes to complicated questions like RFID, variable data information and sustainability.
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“I BELIEVE IN HONESTY AND CLARITY”
WHY SHOULD COMPANIES AND RETAILERS CHOOSE NILORN AS THEIR BRANDING SUPPLIER? I think and hope that customers choose us because we are reliable, that we have a very good web and logistic solution and very good knowledge and credibility when it comes to sustainability issues. We also have a very experienced staff with a great knowledge of our products and services.
HOW DO YOU VIEW NILORN’S SUSTAINABILITY WORK?
INTERVIEW
Sustainability has been an important issue for many years and even more important now, if the world is to have a future. The fashion business, which is one of the businesses that contribute most to global warming, is also therefore the one that is in the forefront in working with sustainability and CSR. Around two years ago we recruited Anna-Karin Wårfors. The previous nine years she was the Sustainability Manager at Gina Tricot. Her extensive knowledge and perspectives are very important to our present and future situation. Together with Cheryl Hall in Hong Kong Anna-Karin is the strong foundation for our sustainability procedures.
HOW CAN WE HELP AND INFLUENCE OUR CUSTOMERS TO BECOME BETTER WITH SUSTAINABILITY CONCERNING LABELS AND BRANDING? By contributing great knowledge about choices of material and complete solutions. In doing so our clients can feel safe that they are choosing the best solutions for their unique situation. Our goal is to guide our customers to the best solutions, taking into account their production and logistics.
WHAT CHARACTERISTICS SHOULD A SUCCESSFUL SALES PERSON HAVE? I believe in honesty and clarity. The customer needs to feel trust and trust is gained by demonstrating great knowledge in products and solutions along with knowledge in the business as a whole. Curiosity and being a people person are also good characteristics.
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IN WHICH COUNTRIES DO YOU SEE THE BIGGEST POTENTIAL OF GROWTH IN THE NEAR FUTURE? I mentioned Great Britain, Germany and Spain before, but I would also like to add the Netherlands where we now have more resources. Italy is another example.
E-COMMERCE HAS DEVELOPED STRONGLY THE LAST FEW YEARS. HOW DO YOU THINK THAT WILL AFFECT NILORN? The products sold over the Internet need labels as well and in a competitive world where it is more and more important to strengthen one’s image through branding the need for labels and packaging are increasing rather than decreasing.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE TRAVEL DESTINATION? Anywhere where I can ski.
WHAT ARE YOUR HOBBIES? Exercise and training, everything from running in the woods to golf and skiing.
WHAT DO YOU THINK WILL BE THE MOST IMPORTANT AREAS FOR NILORN TO INCREASE ITS REVENUE AND TO HAVE CONTINUED SUCCESS? Through sustainability strategies and technical solutions such as RIS (Retail Information Services) and RFID.
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WHAT YOUTH FOR CLIMATE CAN TEACH US GOES BEYOND ENVIRONMENTAL POLICY GEN Z IS LEADING THE FIGHT AGAINST THE STATUS QUO
BY STEPHANIE DUVAL
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Forget Leonardo DiCaprio, forget Al
Gore.
The
environment
is
reason top
why
priority
the on
the political agenda today, is a bunch of kids who might not even know who these ‘old people’ are. The Youth for Climate movement are skipping school until they start seeing the change they demand - and they’re ARTICLE
not letting cynics discourage them.
Swedish school-girl Greta Thunberg started the movement in 2018 when, instead of going back to school after the summer holidays, she spent every school day until the Swedish parliamentary election in front of the parliament building demanding more action to be taken to fight climate change. She set the example that led to the ‘school strike for climate’ movement that took shape in November last year, which surged globally after the United Nations Climate Change Conference in December. The movement’s protests are heard around the world and are influencing public opinion more than any stylish documentary produced by previous generations of climate activists was ever able to. Furthermore, it has roused thousands of scientists and academics to openly declare their support for the strikes, stating they have the factual evidence to back up the claims of the movement. THE BELGIUM FACE OF THE MOVEMENT In Belgium, Anuna De Wever was one of the first student activists to bring the protests into the country and she became the Belgian face of the movement. The reactions to her outspokenness have been two-fold – she’s been put on a pedestal and she’s been vilified as a hypocrite. Either way she’s being considered as an example of her generation and that’s a heavy burden for a 17-year-old. She’s trying to handle the situation with grace – undoubtedly an effect of her adoration for the most graceful of role models, Michelle Obama: “When I watch her speeches, I think to myself – this is how world leaders should conduct themselves. We live in a world that is increasingly defined by boundaries, but Michelle Obama attempts to connect people with each other in the world.”
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HER POLITICAL INFLUENCE
“IT IS ONE OF MY BETTER QUALITIES THAT I CAN’T STAND INJUSTICE” ANUNA DE WEVER
De Wever also lists Martin Luther King and Sophie Scholl as her heroes: examples of people who rebelled against the norms of society. “Before I first spoke out, I didn’t expect to play such a prominent role in the movement, and I didn’t mean for that to happen”, she explains. “Most negative reactions are very personal, about my gender or sexual orientation. I don’t really care about that. I do care about constructive criticism. It’s normal for me to make a thousand mistakes each day – I am only 17. But I want to learn from them, and I think that’s the most important thing.”
You could say Anuna De Wever was raised to care about the world outside her own bubble. Her mother, Katrien Van der Heyden, is a consultant to businesses and organisations on the topic of gender, diversity and equal opportunities. So, when De Wever says: “it is one of my better qualities that I can’t stand injustice”, it’s not hard to see who she takes after. “I originally wanted to be a diplomat in human rights,” she adds. “But now that this climate movement has come onto my path, I feel like this is going to be my generation’s greatest challenge, and I would love to go study social sciences so I can go on to influence or create new climate policy.” Her political aspirations come from a personal place, as De Wever feels more attracted to political activism than to scientific research. But there’s another reason why she chooses to focus her attention on policy: “It’s not a lack of knowledge that is creating the current deadlock we’re experiencing, it’s a lack of political courage to face the known facts and to act accordingly.”
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“PEOPLE AREN’T MOVED TO DO ANYTHING IF THEY DON’T KNOW SOMETHING’S WRONG” ANUNA DE WEVER
THE CRITICISM Anuna De Wever has faced – and continues to face – a lot of criticism, but very little of it seems to focus attention on the content of the climate debate. The very fact that Youth for Climate chose to organise school strikes as the way to get attention generated outrage from those who believe youngsters are better off sitting behind school desks and listening to the wisdom of older generations, than to speak up about things they don’t fully understand. If the argument is essentially that these students have no business protesting because they are not able to produce a solution for the problems they address, De Wever is not having any of it: “It’s not actually our job to solve these problems”, she points out. “It’s not even our job to go out, speak up and protest like we’ve been doing. We shouldn’t have to be doing any of it – we’re kids. But as long as politicians aren’t doing anything, we have to do something.”
As for why instead of going to school she’d rather spend her time organising the community and convincing heads of state to listen to scientists, De Wever says: “Education is actually a big part of the problem. For many, climate change is something that feels very remote from their day-to-day lives, while it is actually impacting each and every one of us. Today’s school programme is not doing anything to change that. They’re not talking about how serious the situation is and they’re not teaching us how to take care of our planet.” “WE ARE NOT DEFEATED, WE ARE HOPEFUL” Even during a five-minute conversation with De Wever, she’s able to instil a sense of urgency in the listener. Perhaps she resorts to hyperbole a little too often – more than once she refers to the Youth for Climate movement as the biggest student rebellion in history, and climate change as the biggest challenge human kind has ever had to face – but that’s easily forgiven when you take into account she is only 17 years old. If that’s not the age for opinionated passion, then what is? More importantly, it’s working. Even though De Wever’s interviews and quotations incite as much criticism as they do praise, you can’t fault her for getting the conversation to a more intense place than it has been in the last few decades. And according to De Wever,
that’s half a battle won. “If more people knew that this is actually an existential crisis, then more people would take action. People aren’t moved to do anything if they don’t know something’s wrong.” Yet Youth for Climate’s message is anything but pessimistic: “We are not defeated, we are hopeful. 97% of scientists claim it’s not too late to act. But we have to act now, because if we wait ten more years, we’ll have reached enough tipping points so that the earth will start warming up by itself, and then there’s nothing we can do.” COLLABORATION IS THE KEY
REBELS OF THE YOUNG GENERATION Over the past few decades neuroscience has led to incredible new insights into how our brain develops and functions. A very interesting fact is that our brains have been wired to start questioning the generations that came before us - and the status quo they created, by the time we hit puberty. This is actually why we have survived so long as a species. Every generation has rebelled against the generations that came before, so they could be free to explore more of the world and improve on what had been created by their ancestors. Gen Z is actually doing exactly what they should be doing. They’re rebelling in order
for our species to adapt and survive. They’re just doing it a little more organised than the generations that came before them, helped by the previously unseen possibilities to connect all over the world. But more importantly, they’re not above asking the help of more experienced and older experts to reach what they recognise should be our common goal, not just theirs. It’s up to Gen Y, Gen X and the baby boomers to accept their status quo being challenged, to reach out their hands and work with these youngsters to improve everything that needs to be improved. And perhaps it’s not such a bad idea to take a look at how education is trying to knock the rebellion out of these adolescents, even though the survival of humankind depends on it.
ARTICLE
So, what can we do? What should climate policy look like? De Wever has her own opinion on the matter, but you’d be forgiven to demand a more professional or scientific point of view. Firm believers that the start of positive change would be more collaboration between politicians, scientists and entrepreneurs or business executives, the movement has established a panel of experts who are working on a detailed plan
of action, to be used as a point of reference by the next Belgian legislation. They also used their online platform to ask citizens for recommendations and ideas, all of which were analysed and synthesized into the report. It’s not the final solution, but it’s a pretty powerful starting point.
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LABEL CONCEPT DEVELOPED BY NILORN
INTERVIEW
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THE HISTORY BEHIND THE COMPANY
INTERVIEW
The Tramarossa brand was born in 1967, in an Italian region called Veneto - thanks to an innovative idea of its founder Urbano Chemello. After his sartorial studies, as a big lover of denim cloth, he created a new product. A pair of sartorial jeans that didn’t obtain big success in the beginning. It was in 2003 that Urbano’s sons Roberto, Paolo and Luigi started to take care and develop this project. Already owners of other brands, they decided to record the brand Sartoria Tramarossa that initially became a niche
product. Some years later, the family decided to focus on it and from that moment it became an important example of Italian quality - recording a peak in sales that pushed to the brand to now be distributed in 65 countries with more than 1000 shops around the world. Europe is still the majority of the product’s sale, with high levels in Benelux, France and Scandinavia. A spread of the product in Japan, Korea and former USSR constitute an important part in its market, new partnerships in India and in the Middle East are forming and USA will be the next big goal in its expansion.
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SUCCESS, CHALLENGES AND WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS In conversation with Jean Michel Wohlmann, Sales Director at Tramarossa.
WHAT HAS MADE TRAMAROSSA WHAT THEY ARE TODAY?
INTERVIEW
The company has always been focused on products ‘made in Italy’ and to be more precise ‘made in Veneto’ – that’s it’s strong added value. This is in fact the most important district of denim, where its history and its culture had developed. The entire process, starting from the idea of the product and the cloth’s spinning to the laundry process and its delivery, is based here. The manic attention to details consists of a deep research to find the perfect yarn, the choice of the rivets and buttons or a jacquard fabric. Evoking a period in which the uniqueness of the product gave value to it.
WHAT ARE YOUR SUCCESS FACTORS? The uniqueness of the product it’s his main success factor. We are talking about the only sartorial/ customisable jeans in existence. Among its peculiarities are that it can be signed with your initials, 2 metal letters can be inserted on the right pocket to personalise your jeans. There is also the possibility to customise the back label with a large choice of precious materials and applications. This is the mission of the brand: to create a personal and extremely unique product.
HOW MUCH OF YOUR SALES ARE IN STORE AND E-COMMERCE? Just in the last period we started to sell on-line so that the client can buy some products that aren’t available in the stores e.g some lettering, buttons or back labels.
WHAT DOES THE TRAMAROSSA CUSTOMER LOOK LIKE FROM YOUR PERSPECTIVE? Our customer is placed on the highest shelf of fashion sales, where a tailoring dress or a good quality cashmere sweater represent the perfect match with a pair of Tramarossa jeans. Our client is looking for a product which can be found in shops oriented to a specific kind of fashion.
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PRODUCT IT’S HIS MAIN
INTERVIEW
“THE UNIQUENESS OF THE
SUCCESS FACTOR. WE ARE TALKING ABOUT THE ONLY SARTORIAL/CUSTOMISABLE JEANS IN EXISTENCE” JEAN MICHEL WOHLMANN SALES DIRECTOR
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WHAT DOES THE MOST EXPENSIVE PAIR OF JEANS COST YOU OVER THE COUNTER?
WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES FACING TRAMAROSSA IN THE FUTURE?
Prices range from 300€ to 1000€ for a pair of the most expensive customised/tailored jeans.
The biggest challenge would be to obtain the perfect blend between quality and innovation, to attract new generations, whose taste is smoother and more high-tech.
WHAT DOES SUSTAINABILITY MEAN TO YOU? We embrace the concept of sustainability working only with laundries that pass eco- environmental tests. We also add to our collections totally recycled fabrics.
HOW DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE OF THE INTERACTION WITH THE CUSTOMERS?
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO WORK WITH NILORN?
The future depends on our ambassadors, in which we believe firmly. Stores are our direct contact with customers, so the success of the product can be of high importance to a single shop.
We consider Nilorn a good partner in terms of quality and reliability, everything with respect for our history and tradition. We trust the creativity and ideas of the company to develop our brand.
INTERVIEW
This is a collaboration that has been going on for years and always lives up to expectations.
WHAT DOES THE FUTURE LOOK LIKE? WHICH ARE THE PRIORITIES AREAS AND WHY? In the future we hope to strengthen the product through the setting up of new contest shop to shop and new single-brand stores. One major point is the broadening of our business toward China and USA.
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Our expectations for the future are to interact with a younger and up-to-date audience using social media.
INTERVIEW
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PHOTO: NAKSHE-GHALAT
odd band of scientists, artists, designers and adventurers, we’re pushing the boundaries of how outdoor clothing is made. Together with our customers, we’re recycling, renting, repairing and reusing our way to a new, sustainable outdoor industry.
TOGETHER WITH AN
Explore our universe at houdinisportswear.com
BOTTLE
SORTING
DEEP INTO
WA S H I N G
FLAKING
RECYCLED PET
EXTRUDING
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CARE LABEL
RECYCLING
PLASTIC
FOR THE FASHION WORLD
WHAT IS POLYESTER?
MOST COMMON USED PLASTICS FOR NILORN? LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene) typically used in garment bags and PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) primarily used in textile labels and some rigid packaging. Both LDPE and PET are available in recycled and virgin options.
WHAT WASTE MATERIAL IS COLLECTED? • Pre-consumer Material which has been diverted from the waste stream of production and/or material used in delivery which does not reach the end consumer. • Post-consumer Material which has completed it’s intended life cycle and has been diverted from landfill.
HOW IS POLYESTER RECYCLED? Materials are sorted to separate the different polyesters and transferred to recycling facilities. Materials are then cleaned, chipped and recycled to produce a new raw material. Raw material can take different forms such as yarn or pellets.
The finished product can have some difference in appearance, for example, a transparent garment bag will appear more clouded compared with virgin material. A textile label (which is typically dyed) however will show very little or no aesthetical difference. Recycled material quality is comparable to virgin material in production.
DEEP INTO
Polyester is the generic term used to describe plastic materials. Plastics are used in a wide variety of products and can take many forms from foam-based material to rigid packaging to textile yarn.
HOW DOES RECYCLED AND VIRGIN MATERIAL DIFFER?
WHY IS RECYCLED POLYESTER MORE EXPENSIVE? Recycled material in general carries a higher price point than virgin material. Some factors which impact on this include • Virgin material is still produced in very large volume • Demand for recycled material is lower • Recycling the material involves more processors As demand grows and the supply chain of recycling becomes more efficient and widely available, it is expected that price will decrease over time.
CAN YOU CERTIFY THE MATERIAL? Yes. GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) are both internationally recognised standards which support a chain of custody system providing traceability.
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PANTONE 719 C 13-1013 TPG CMYK 0, 14, 26, 1
PANTONE Warm Red C 17-1656 TPG CMYK 0, 83, 80, 0
PANTONE 719 U 13-1013 TPG CMYK 2, 20, 34, 0
PANTONE Warm Red U 17-1656 TPG CMYK 0, 58, 57, 0
STORES
DESIGNING, WEAVING & TAILORING
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Our ‘places you must visit’ pages offer an insight into
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT just a few of the interesting sites, venues and shops we visit around the world that inspire us here at Nilorn.
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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 27 Old Bond Street London W1S 4QE +44 (0) 207 355 0088 Opening Hours: Monday - Saturday: 10am - 6:30pm Thursday: 10am - 7pm Sunday: 12pm - 6pm
Old Bond Street Alexander McQueen is a British luxury fashion house. The flagship London store on Old Bond Street is a feast for the eyes with its carefully curated and designed space to showcase its latest lines. From the street the brightly lit store is inviting and draws you in to explore all it has to offer. Spread over 3 floors, the first 2 are dedicated to the latest collections and the top floor is a definite must see. The brand has a new space where it will host a programme of exhibitions, talks and events aimed specifically at inspiring students, although all are welcome. The first of these – Unlocking Stories – gives open access behind-the-scenes to the work in process, stories, teamwork and materials which go into the Spring/ Summer 2019 collection – including some historic archive pieces used to inspire modern day designs.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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BOTTLETOP 84 Regent St. BOTTLETOP is a British luxury sustainable fashion brand based in London. The brand was launched with the mission to empower people and the planet through sustainable design and creative culture. Starting with handbags made from upcycled bottle tops in Kenya with leather offcuts, the brand developed their signature chain mail fabric made using upcycled metal ring pulls. BOTTLETOP has its own atelier and training programs in Brazil and Nepal and continue to support grass roots health, education and skills training projects through the BOTTLETOP FOUNDATION.
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The #TOGETHERBAND campaign was launched in April 2019, together with UBS, aiming to engage hundreds of thousands of people across the world in partnership with the United Nations Foundation, World Wildlife Fund, Project Everyone, Eco Age and Global Citizen. Each band represents one of the 17 UN Global Goals and 100% of the proceeds from each sale is used to spread the word about the Global Goals and fund life-changing projects to a build a better future for us all.
BOTTLETOP 84 Regent St Soho London W1B 5RS
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
YELLOW KORNER 92 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine
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The YellowKorner gallery is a contemporary space that exhibits and sells photography from a huge variety of photographers - from up-and-coming artists to great names such as Man Ray, Slim Aarons, Jean Dieuzaide and many more. The concept behind the store is to sell high quality prints for a reasonable price so that they adhere to the needs of the many, whilst presenting the best on the scene. The photographs presented here ooze talent, and you leave feeling inspired.
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
YELLOW KORNER 92 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine 75012 Paris France
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THE LITTLE RED DOOR 60 Rue Charlot Located in the heart of Le Marais lies cocktail bar, Little Red Door. A perfect mix of chic and simplicity, it is a unique setting where you feel instantly at home; a vibe that very few bars can create. The doorman: Laurent Comte, strikes up conversation whilst you’re in line to ease the wait, even advising you on other nearby bars and a plan B if the queue is a little too busy. The cocktails here are brimming with passion and flavour - each one is completely unique, using ingredients from across the globe. A perfect mix for a memorable night.
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THE LITTLE RED DOOR 60 Rue Charlot 75003 Paris France
NORMA 75 Rue de Turbigo 75003 Paris France
NORMA 75 Rue de Turbigo
PLACES YOU MUST VISIT
If Italian cuisine with Parisian flair sounds good to you, then Norma is the place to eat. Although a relatively new restaurant, it has already made a name for itself in Paris due to its outstanding food and relaxed setting. Located in Le Marais, Norma is in a beautiful old building down a small one-way street. The mix of this aesthetic with the modern, contemporary interior makes for an amazing dining experience.
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M U I G L E B N NILOR N O I S I V E R E I AT PREM 0 19 F E B R UA RY 2
WORDS: BART VAN TRIMPONT
For the fourth time in a row Nilorn Belgium participated at Premiére Vision in Paris during the latest
NILORN WORLDWIDE
PHOTO: PREMIÉR VISION PARIS
show in early 2019 - and will continue to do so in September, thanks to the successful results shown last February.
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With a clearly open and inviting stand, people are drawn in to discover the World of Branding and Design at Nilorn, which is presented at the Nilorn booth. No shouting or overwhelming presentations and images, instead full branding and design collections are discretely shown in various segments of the booth with a large variety of products, ranging from the classic woven label to high tech accessories and packaging. These immediately draw the attention of the curious designer and buyer. Nilorn Belgium enhanced the feeling of a clean and open stand by offering totally paperless and only digitally operated note taking on mobile phones. No computers or notebooks disturbed the visitors’ view of the collections.
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NILORN WORLDWIDE
DURING THE SHOW WE NOTICED: In an ever changing world, fashion is facing radical shake ups of its values and needs to adapt to the new demands.
Imitations are no longer seen as cheap alternatives but can really shine as totally new products in their own right. Material such as fi bio-sourced plastics, vegan materials and even synthetic stones, are now described as cultured gems.
Meanwhile purely functional items are also gaining in importance when we look at straps, cords, elastics, reflective strips and safely buckles – all have the pared-back beauty of useful items.
In today’s world where people are constantly dazzled by screens and black mirrors, textures (relief, picots, rubbery feels), and multiple changing, moving, iridescent or luminescent effects – can be the key to surprise and intrigue!
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Though slightly lower than at previous editions of the fair (due to holiday periods and train strikes) Nilorn had quite a good number of visitors in three days amounting to 150 unique attendants with differing backgrounds - ranging from students and designers to buyers and CEO’s. Both retailers and brand owners were present and showed great interest not only in Nilorn’s creative products and business proposal but also in Nilorn’s advanced stance on sustainability. The latest report (More fit for the future) from Nilorn on sustainabilty and Nilorn’s commitment to the UN Global Compact on Sustainable Principles, added greatly to the feeling of contemporary creativity and professionlism on a human scale. NILORN WORLDWIDE
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Nilorn Belgium chose to continue being present at Paris Premiére Vision and will do everything to keep people surprised at the wonderful world of Branding and Design. Let us meet again in September 17th -19th.
PANTONE 386 C 13-0645 TPG CMYK 9, 0, 66, 0
PANTONE 7614 C 17-1510 TPG CMYK 35, 50, 49, 0
PANTONE 386 U 13-0645 TPG CMYK 9, 0, 55, 0
PANTONE 7614 U 17-1510 TPG CMYK 31, 44, 44, 0
NILORN WORLDWIDE
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the venue FAMILIAR BUT ALWAYS NEW: THE MUNICH FABRIC START TRADE FAIR HAS BEEN A ‘JOUR FIXE’ IN THE
FOR MORE THAN 10 YEARS NOW. The Munich Fabric Start is a highly inspiring meeting point for fashion people from around the world. For our sales team, it’s the perfect platform to meet clients and prospective customers. From the design perspective, it’s the sample areas and lectures about trends and new materials which make this fair an event you don’t want to miss.
NILORN WORLDWIDE
SCHEDULE OF NILORN GERMANY
SUSTAINABILITY - THE BIG ISSUE How can we use resources more wisely and intelligently, in order to protect our planet? In our booth, sustainability has been a big focus point for a number of seasons. What does sustainability mean for branding and especially for single-use items in packaging? We’re constantly working to find commercially viable alternatives that are good for the planet. We want to understand our clients’ needs and what’s going on in fashion. Trade fairs like the Munich Fabric Start are the perfect venue for inspiration and exchange.
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ANTWRP
19: 2 DESIGN COLLECTION
DESIGN COLLECTION
CREATIVE LABELS AND BRANDING
On the following pages, we present our latest design collections. Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level. We are always on the lookout for new materials and production techniques, whilst continuing to fine-tune the interaction between design, production and logistics. In this issue we asked photographer Olof Händén, to interpret one
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of
ourlatest
collections,
’ADMIX’.
Photo Olof Händén Hair/ Make up Elinore Runesson Models Mimmi Grahn och Gustav Tellenmark Thanks to CrossFit IBEX / Borås
DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION Life is full of challenges. Life can be hard. With ADMIX you are equipped to train and exercise to the fullest. Bite the bullet and push your limits a bit further, challenge by challenge. Materials and gear engineered to enable your body to move in sync with every action and reaction.
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The models is wearing clothes from a variety of brands:
NIKE H&M CASALL ADIDAS CRAFT SOC SKINS ETC.
DESIGN COLLECTION
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DESIGN COLLECTION
A simplistic elegance which showcases the modern but still has a nod to the past. It’s clean and neat – with inspiration from raw materials – a stripped back feel with a touch of sophistication. Mindora offers a style that gives women the opportunity to head straight from work to a glass of wine with her friends.
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DESIGN COLLECTION
Ollie & Co is a formalwear brand with personality. Striking black and white patterns are interjected with splashes of bright fun colours. The contrast creates a contemporary, playful feel for the modern man. The message is clear – this is clothing that shows you still mean business but with charisma.
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DESIGN COLLECTION For the man who wants his clothes to be an extension of his unique personality. He wants everything to be high-end, down to the most minute details, no matter if he is conducting business or relaxing in his own time. BLAKE creates classic tailoring with a modern edge. When only the best will do.
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DESIGN COLLECTION
There is a big world out there to discover and explore to your heart’s content. Sylvander honours the heritage style that came before and transforms it into something new. Classic garments with a hint of outdoor style.
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DESIGN COLLECTION Kids clothing with old school attitude! A retro message that has one meaning for the adults and an entirely different one for the kids. A streetwear inspired brand for a new generation of cool kids. MAX & LOLA - Retro at its best.
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DESIGN COLLECTION For the woman who is prepared to embrace life fully and look flawless while doing so. She knows that femininity and independence can go hand-in-hand. Retro with a modern twist creates the best statement when she makes her entrance, luxurious from head to toe. THE FLORENCE PROJECT
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DESIGN COLLECTION
WOKE - To understand truth, you need to open your eyes. Being a youth is to be a rebel. To go against the grain of society´s well laid plans – that’s their job. Generation Z is on the scene to shake things up. They see past colour or gender and can see the individual beneath.
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DESIGN COLLECTION ‘Comeback’ is made to rethink fashion and features garment trims with the lowest possible environmental impact, such as an easily detachable screw button in stainless steel, a fully woven biodegradable label in Cradle-to-Cradle® certified quality with a QR-Code on there to provide relevant material information or a hangtag designed for reselling the garment in a second hand store.
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DESIGN COLLECTION
BRANDING DESIGN FOR CIRCULAR GARMENTS AND TEXTILES. WORDS: CHRISTINA WALTER
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The garment industry is on the verge of change - it’s time for a new, circular way of producing and consuming textiles. It’s time to create products that last longer and are designed with end-of-life in mind instead. Nilorn has just
any loss in quality, staying in a continuous cycle. Biological materials are materials that come from renewable sources. They are natural materials that when manufactured for the ideal circular economy can safely decompose into the natural environment (soil, water, etc.) without affecting it in a negative way, providing food for bacteria and microbiological life.
launched ‘Comeback’ – a branding concept helping to bring circularity to the small parts of a garment – the garment trims.
DESIGN COLLECTION
Consumers are increasingly aware and concerned about social and environmental responsibility in the fashion industry. Not-for-profit global movement Fashion Revolution – known for campaigns like the ‘fashion revolution week’ or ‘who made my clothes’ - commissioned a survey of 5,000 people aged 1675 in the five largest European markets (Germany, United Kingdom, France, Italy and Spain). The aim was to find out how supply chain transparency and sustainability impacts EU consumers’ purchasing decisions when shopping for clothing, accessories and shoes. More than one in three people consider social and environmental impacts when buying clothes and 85% of people think it is important for fashion brands to reduce their long-term impacts on the world by addressing climate change. More than 90 leading brands, representing 12% of the global fashion market have signed the 2020 Circular Fashion Commitment, setting their own individual targets for 2020 within at least one or more of the four action points: 1.) Designing for circularity, 2.) increasing the volume of used garments collected, 3.) increasing the volume of used garments resold, and finally, 4.) increasing the share of garments made from recycled post-consumer textile fibres.
DESIGNING FOR CIRCULARITY Elimiation of toxic substances, choosing and combining the right materials for the right purpose is key, when designing for an ideal circular economy. Through the lens of circularity, materials are broken down into two categories – technical and biological materials: Technical materials are materials originating from non-renewable resources. They are inorganic or synthetic materials manufactured by humans – such as nylon, polyester, plastics and metals – when optimally recycled they can be used many times over without
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Labels, trims and packaging are only small parts of a garment but nevertheless have high relevance: Providing the right trims on a product is key to ensuring its cyclability. Labels encourage durability by providing instructions on how to wash, dry and repair to minimise damage. Furthermore, clear instructions that remain visible on a label until a garment’s end of use help ensure recyclability. Nilorn’s ‘Comeback’ concept is the first step on the long journey to circularity. It respects the two material cycles and is inspired by Cradle-to-Cradle® design principles: 1.) keep products and materials in use by choosing recycled and/or recyclable materials and finishes 2.) design out waste and pollution by keeping control of hazardous chemicals 3.) regenerate natural systems by choosing natural, decomposable materials derived from renewable resources.
RETHINK FASHION ‘Comeback’ is made to rethink fashion and features garment trims with the lowest possible environmental impact by now such as an easily detachable screw button in stainless steel, a fully woven biodegradable label in Cradle-to-Cradle® certified quality with a QRCode on there to provide relevant material information or a hangtag designed for reselling the garment in a second hand store. Single-use items like hangtags are made from grass or sugar cane paper and printed with Cradle-to-Cradle certified ink, whilst plastic packaging is designed in recycled material with the option for a second use. A repair kit adds an extra value and reflects the spirit of Comeback: Recycle, Re-use and love your clothes!
* Cradle to Cradle® is a design concept that was developed in the 1990s by Prof. Dr. Michael Braungart, William McDonough and the scientists of EPEA in Hamburg. It stands for innovation, quality as well as good design and describes the safe and potentially infinite use of materials in cycles. (source: epea-hamburg,com)
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CIRCULAR FASHION
CLOSING THE ENABLING PRODUCTS OF TODAY TO BECOME THE RESOURCES OF TOMORROW INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINA WALTER
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Future-thinking fashion designer Ina Budde is the founder of circular.fashion - a sustainable change agency creating CIRCULAR FASHION
product and system innovation for a circular economy in fashion and textiles. At the core of the company is a digital platform for material suppliers, fashion brands and recyclers where tools and resources can be accessed to ensure circularity in every step. The circular design software, consisting of a material library, design guidelines and a product development tool supports fashion brands to design circular and sustainable products. A digital tag, a circularity. ID, to be integrated into a garment sets the standard for transparency and traceability enabling reverse supply chain intelligence for customers, sorters and recyclers to ensure that each piece is recycled into new fibre again.
Photo: Ina Budde Š Launch Nordic
Branding&design caught up with Ina for an interview about her vision of fashion’s future. Circular.fashion is based in Berlin and was founded in 2015. Ina has won several sustainability awards such as the I:CO Award 2015, German Federal Award Ecodesign 2017, Next Economy Award 2017 and the Global Change Award 2019 she won together with her team. Link: https://circular.fashion
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HAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT FASHION?
CIRCULAR FASHION
Fashion is such a strong way to express our personalities and our mindset. It is a subtle yet always visible communicative element that does not only speak about our political perspectives and our emotions but can also visualise our core values. I find this fascinating and look forward to the day where all fashion will be made responsibly – both socially and environmentally - and will reflect the values of humanity as global and intergenerational fairness.
YOU STUDIED FASHION DESIGN IN HAMBURG MORE THAN 10 YEARS AGO - WHEN DID YOU START THINKING ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY? Sustainability was always a core mindset and although it was not a topic introduced by the studies, I loved to explore different sustainable materials and approached them with each and every collection. Afterwards I wanted to add a more scientific perspective and completed a Master in Sustainability in fashion. I saw the need to spread these exciting concepts and insights with designers and fashion brands and therefore started to work as lecturer for Sustainable Design at international universities in Hamburg, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Melbourne and AMD Berlin. At the same time I consulted fashion brands on designing more sustainable and circular collections. Seeing the need to not only change the product but also shape the larger systems around it was the reason to kick start circular.fashion which is a platform for circular design and closed loop recycling - creating the interconnection between all actors of a circular value chain.
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WHAT SHOULD FASHION BE LIKE IN THE FUTURE?
CIRCULAR FASHION
H
We truly believe in a circular economy for fashion and textiles where every product is designed from the outset to be long-lasting and recyclable to the same quality again. Thereby we can redefine the concept of waste and reduce the pressure on scarce resources. We are convinced that designing for circularity and longevity is no limitation but a huge driver of innovation and creativity. It is about creating garments to last - in style, quality and function - that are adaptable according to evolving aesthetic desires and allow endless regeneration to new fibres after end of use. In our Circular Design Software we offer Circular Design Briefings that are exciting inspirations and hands on advice to give day by day decision making support on how to construct a garment in the most sustainable way. The Circular Material Library gives access to hundreds of healthy materials that fulfill the needs of our recycling partners to bring the design concepts quickly to reality. In a perfect future the fashion of today will become the resource of tomorrow.
OW CLOSE OR HOW FAR AWAY ARE WE FROM CIRCULARITY IN FASHION TODAY? Today most discarded clothing (87%) is either incinerated or placed in landfill. 12% is down-cycled to insulation material or wiping cloth. In the past decade closed loop recycling technologies have been developed that allow fibres to be regenerated into the same quality again - but today still less than 1% of all textiles are regenerated this way to fibres usable again for fashion.* So we see that technically a circular economy is possible, but it is not happening yet at scale. As a reason for this we identified a lack of transparency and information for fashion brands and recyclers. Therefore we have developed a Circular Design Software that enables day by day decision making to design circular products and guide them to the right recycler. *Ellen MacArthur Foundation - A new Textiles Economy
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WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES FOR BRANDS AND RECYCLERS?
CIRCULAR FASHION
To realize a circular economy in fashion and textiles, clever decisions must be made throughout the whole product life. Designers and recyclers have a crucial role, responsibility and exciting opportunities to influence the fashion system to become more sustainable. We have identified three core challenges for them that are currently holding the industry back to transition from a linear system towards a circular system: First, products need to be designed for circularity, this means designers need to know how to choose and combine healthy materials in the very beginning to create products that fulfill the requirements of fibre-to-fibre recyclers. Secondly, consumers need to be informed on where to return old clothes into the right channels. And finally sorting companies need to be able to identify the material compositions to direct products to the right recycler. If one step fails the whole mission fails. Therefore we have developed a coherent platform that can solve all three core challenges in one place.
HOW HAS THE AVAILABILITY OF CIRCULAR MATERIALS CHANGED OVER THE YEARS - DO YOU SEE NEW MATERIALS, BETTER QUALITIES TO WORK WITH? Absolutely, we are delighted to work with the leading sustainable textile producers that are as keen as we are to push for innovation and enrich the market for more sustainable sourcing opportunities. Some of the highlights in our Circular Material Library are materials from biodegradable elastane and polymers, to dissolvable yarns to enable product design for disassembly. There is also lyocell qualities that were created based on post-consumer recycled cotton with a fibre-to-fibre recycling process that allows regeneration of yarn to the same quality again usable for fashion without adding any virgin fibres.
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L
OOKING AT FASHION CONSUMPTION - HOW DO YOU SEE THE ROLE OF THE CONSUMER?
More than 90 leading brands have already signed the circular fashion system commitment, aiming to integrate circular design training and to increase the use of post-consumer recycled fibres in fashion products**. We are convinced that companies not exploring the huge potential and necessity of a circular economy today, will be quickly left behind tomorrow. ** Global Fashion Agenda 2019
and we are working with large fashion brands and material suppliers to find their individual strategy for circularity. For this purpose we offer them our Circular Design Software and have developed comprehensive formats for consultancy, training and workshops on how to embrace circularity in every aspect of their business - from material selection, design strategies, retail strategies to take-back systems and recycling.
WHAT WAS THE HARDEST PART OF FOUNDING AND SETTING UP CIRCULAR.FASHION?
WHO OR WHAT INSPIRES YOU AND DRIVES YOU TO DO WHAT YOU DO?
Clearly creating awareness in the industry. In the very beginning, fashion companies were not yet foreseeing how quickly the importance of sustainability and circularity will gain relevance. So only fashion brands who were already on their journey towards more sustainable practices, companies like HUGO BOSS, Zalando and Filippa K reached out to us to support them on their journey of defining circularity according to their brand DNA. Luckily it became more and more obvious that there is no other long term solution to work within the planetary boundaries than creating products that can become the resources of tomorrow - otherwise companies will soon be out of business. Luckily the awareness has changed
I think I have just fallen in love with the problem solving of making circular economy a true reality. And to achieve mindset and system changes, collaboration is key since innovations created in silos will not have the desired impact. Thus, collaboration amongst all stakeholders involved in the fashion supply chain is crucial to make it happen and is also the element that gives great energy and motivation back. It inspires me to see great like minded initiatives that are striving with us together towards a joint vision. What drives me also is to see the power of design and the great responsibility and opportunities we have to bring sustainable concepts to life - through desirable products.
CIRCULAR FASHION
Consumers have the great opportunity to make a conscious buying decision and thereby support their sustainable fashion heroes. To help consumers make the right choices we have developed a unique ID in clothing that is a scannable label providing, transparently, all information about the sustainable production of the garment but also the opportunities of how to prolong its future life: It informs the users on how to reuse, update, re-dye or repair this item as well as where is the closest shop or container where they can return it for recycling.
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www.mayerline.be
www.amĂŠline.be
SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND
SUSTAINABLE MINDSET ILLUSTRATIONS BY RIKARD HĂ„LL
Each year our designers from across the Nilorn Group embark on inspiration trips
concept collections, seek out new ideas and to ensure we stay up-to-date with the latest trends. Here at Nilorn, we have been working to reduce the impact we have on the environment - not only through our offering in sustainable products and
INSPIRATION TRIP
- travelling to different locations across the globe to get inspired for the Nilorn
materials, but also in all aspects of what we do.
This year, our designers have made a conscious decision to only visit places that they can travel to by train. Rail transport is the most environmentally-friendly way to travel, aside from walking or cycling, as the greenhouse effect of gas emissions per kilometre are 80% less than travelling by car. In some countries, less than 3% of all transport gas emissions come from trains.
LONDON PARIS COPENHAGEN BERLIN
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LONDON – PARIS
One of this year’s trips takes some of our UK designers to Paris – as you can see from the below comparison, the CO2 emissions are 91% less when travelling by train, compared directly to travelling by air.
CO2 EMISSIONS PER PASSENGER Journey:
Out & back by plane
Out & back by train
%
London to Paris by Eurostar
3.5 hours, 244 Kg/CO2
2.75 hours, 22 Kg/CO2
91% less
INSPIRATION TRIP
TO STAY AND FOR BREAKFAST
Qbic Hotel The Qbic London hotel is located in the East End, just a stone’s throw from nearby Spitalfields and a short walk from the creative hub that is Shoreditch. The hotel prides itself on being the ‘greenest hotel in town’ - ripping up the rulebook to create a genuinely eco-friendly place to stay – with a great vibe too. There are lots of ways Qbic does this through using solar energy, offering electric car charging points and saving water through the clever shower system in each room. Guests are also gently encouraged to save water with organic toiletries from ‘Stop-The-Water-While-Using-Me’. Green thinking is rewarded too – guests who choose not to have their room serviced are rewarded with a free drink in the bar – what’s not to love.
LOCATION 42 Adler Street London E1 1EE +44 (0) 203 021 1440
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LONDON
SHOPS
Liberty London A trip to London should definitely include a visit to Liberty – a department store dating back to 1875 with its distinctive Tudor frontage and beautiful carved wood interior. The store sells an array of high-end and couture fashion brands and collates products from across the globe – from clothing, beauty and homeware, to carpets, ornaments and art prints. The store is particularly well-known for its fabrics and houses an extensive haberdashery department.
LOCATION Regent Street, London, W1B 5AH +44 (0)20 7734 1234
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LONDON
LUNCH
The Bike Shed Motorcycle Club After a stroll around the bustling creative hub of Shoreditch, The Bike Shed Motorcycle Club is the perfect spot to grab lunch. Started in November 2011 as a motorcycle blog, the community soon grew, hosting pop-up motorcycle events and shows where visitors could enjoy custom bikes, art, photography, curated retailers along with great food and hospitality. Skip forward to November 2015 and the club opened its doors in Shoreditch, set inside 4 renovated railway arches. It comprises a 100-seater cafÊ and restaurant, bike parking, retail space, galleries, barbershop and event space – all surrounding the bike theme and philosophy. A great space to enjoy a bite to eat, surrounded by real bikers.
LOCATION 384 Old Street Shoreditch London EC1V 9LT +44 (0) 207 729 811
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INSPIRATION TRIP
AREA
Covent Garden Covent Garden is situated in the heart of London’s West End theatre district. The area is packed with places to dine, shop and relax – with a mix of boutique stores and well-known high street brands. The cobbled piazza leads into The Market Building, with wonderful arches spanning the ceiling and a rich history embedded in its architecture. Covent Garden is the place to go for some of the best shopping and dining destinations in central London.
LOCATION The Market Bldg, 41, London WC2E 8RF
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PARIS
INSPIRATION TRIP
AREA
Le Marais The Parisian neighbourhood of Marais is perfect for travellers. Located on the Right Bank, this former French aristocratic area is now a coming-together of Jewish, Chinese and LGBT cultures. Bakeries, hip stores and noodle bars line its typically Parisian narrow streets. There is an array of high-end fashion boutiques, concept stores and creative art collections. For such a small neighbourhood, Le Marais has plenty of museums, including the Musée Carnavalet, Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature and the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme. Merci has become one of Paris’ most desirable shopping locations, selling everything from vintage clothing and accessories to homeware and stationery. It’s Used Book Café, featuring a 10,000-book library, is a must see for serious fashion lovers. Tom Greyhound and Broken Arm are also fantastic high-end designer stores with a multicultural approach to fashion.
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LUNCH
Miznon Located in the heart of Le Marais, Paris lies Miznon, a street food restaurant that focuses on a fusion of Israeli and French cuisine. Created by Chef Eyal Shani, Miznon takes a modern twist on traditional Israeli food, fusing Tel Aviv favourites with a Parisian touch. Beef bourguignon, ratatouille with hummus, steak & eggs these are just a few of the delicious pittas Miznon has to offer. The restaurant is unpretentious, with the menu written on a chalk board and bar seating, creating the feeling that you have stepped into your own kitchen at home. You can also see the chef’s at work with the open-kitchen layout, truly an unforgettable experience.
LOCATION 22 rue des Ecouffes 75004 Paris +33 1 42 74 83 58
HOTEL
Mama Shelter Just around the corner from the grave of Jim Morrison - evoking the spirit of Rock and roll - lies Mama Shelter. This contemporary hotel exudes style and elegance, but with a cool edge. The restaurant, designed by Phillipe Starck, the celebrated French interior designer, produces fantastic homemade cuisine and exclusive dishes created by Chef Guy Savoy. These are great to share between friends around the comfortably large tables. There is also an island bar, a delicious pizzeria and an outdoor terrace. The hotel rooms are quirky, have a creative energy and are all equipped with stateof-the-art iMac’s to create a unique experience.
LOCATION 109 Rue de Bagnolet 75020 Paris +33 1 43 48 48 48
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INSPIRATION TRIP
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PARIS
STORE
Le Bon Marche The classic French department store in Paris provides a complete shopping experience. Le Bon Marché, which translates to “The Good Market” definitely lives up to its name. Based on the left bank’s Rue de Sèvres, spanning over several blocks, the epic store offers shoppers a cultural experience with a sense of history. Founded in 1852 by Aristide Boucicaut, the store has seen many renovations but has maintained its art deco feeling. It is a go-to place for Parisians and visitors alike.
Step into La Grande Épicerie, Le Bon Marché‘s stunning gourmet market, showcasing food from around the world. Or get lost in the 2nd floor book shop - to name just a few essential areas. Walking through the spacious interior, the centre of the store is criss-crossed by the Andrée Putman white-tiled escalators. The feel of the building matching the beauty of its contents. From household brand names to smaller collections exclusive to Le Bon Marché - there is even a modest J. Crew section which is geared towards a Parisian lifestyle.
The art of shopping is a cornerstone of French style and the chic apparel departments do not disappoint. Truly a must-see for anyone visiting Paris.
LOCATION 24 Rue de Sèvres 75007 Paris
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COPENHAGEN – BERLIN
The second inspirational trip was a trip to Berlin with a pitsop in Copenhagen where some of the Swedish designers met our designer in Denmark. And as you can see from the below comparison, the CO2 emissions are 79% less when travelling by train.
CO2 EMISSIONS PER PASSENGER Journey:
Out & back by plane
Copenhagen to Berlin
2.5 hours, 126,7 Kg/CO2 7.1 hours, 26.7 Kg/CO2
GULDSMEDEN HOTELS:
Out & back by train
% 79% less
Axel - Copenhagen
Six hotels in Denmark (five in Copenhagen and one in Aarhus) one hotel in Oslo (Norway) Eyja in Reykjavík (Iceland) Lulu in Berlin (Germany) Villa Libellule in Menton (France) and Chapung Sebali in Bali (Indonesia).
Lulu - Berlin
Lulu - Berlin
GULDSMEDEN HOTELS
Axel & Lulu Sandra and Marc Weinert opened the first Hotel Guldsmeden at Guldsmedgade in Århus, Denmark, in 1999. Today Guldsmeden Hotels encompasses seven properties around the world. Guldsmeden Hotels is based on love for good hosting and the hotels are all run by dedicated - but untraditional and unorthodox - guidelines in sustainability and ecology. All hotels are Green Globe* and Gold-Ø-certified**. Innate curiosity, a wish for continuous growth and improvement and a sense of fun at facing new challenges is what drives the hotel chain every day. Guldsmeden Hotels also won the award for Best Hotel Chain at the Danish Travel Awards in 2017.
* GREEN GLOBE: The Guldsmeden Hotels are Green Globe certified, which is one of the most exacting certifications available to the hospitality sector. Green Globe´s 360-degree sustainability management system ensures our very best efforts in every aspect of the daily operations of our hotels. Green Globe audits its members once a year, and demand a 5% improvement on a given area. This ensures our continued commitment to keeping it green.
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** THE GOLDEN Ø: The Ø-label is regulated by the Danish Ministry of Food & Agriculture, and the golden Ø is only given to restaurants with a percentage above 90 in regards to organic produce. We are audited by a representative from the ministry 3 times per year, and our most recent score was 98,6% organic!
Axel - Copenhagen
COPENHAGEN
INSPIRATION TRIP
AXEL GULDSMEDEN Opened in 2007, in a beautiful turn-of-the-century building. Axel was the first of the Guldsmeden Hotels to achieve the golden (Ø), the green key and a Green Globe certification.
LOCATION AXEL GULDSMEDEN – COLBJØRNSENSGADE 14 1652 KØBENHAVN V – COPENHAGEN CONTACT +45 33 31 32 66
LULU GULDSMEDEN Germany’s first ‘Hygge’ hotel opened in Berlin late summer 2017. Lulu is located in a beautifully renovated 1850’s building in the vibrant neighbourhood of Potsdamer Straße in Tiergarten/Mitte. All their suites plus 24 of their rooms feature a stylish loft with additional snoozing options. To enjoy the hotel’s 4 plus meter ceilings and so Lulu have added an element of surprise to their lofts to make space a little bit more lively – enjoy lazing in a hammock, a strength testing workout or swing like no one is watching.
LOCATION LULU GULDSMEDEN – POTSDAMER STRASSE 67 10785 BERLIN – GERMANY CONTACT LULU@GULDSMEDENHOTELS.COM
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BERLIN
BREAKFAST AT
Father Carpenter LOCATION BLUE YARD MÜNZSTR. 21 - 1. HOF, 10178, BERLIN. GERMANY CONTACT hello@fathercarpenter.com
OPEN HOURS Mon - Fri
09:00 - 18:00
Sat
10:00 - 18:00
Sun
CLOSED
Holidays
10:00 - 16:00
BOUTIQUE
14 oz. CONFIDENT, STRONG, ELEGANT WITH A DOWN-TO-EARTH ATTITUDE. Iconic pieces that will stay with you for a long time.
LOCATION MÜNSTRAßE 21, BERLIN CONTACT +49 30 28 04 05 14
OPEN HOURS Mon - Sat
11:00 - 20:00
Sun
CLOSED
MUSEUM
Bauhaus 1919-2019 To celebrate the centenary of the founding of the Bauhaus in 2019, the Bauhaus-Archiv/Museum fĂźr Gestaltung, designed by Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius, is being renovated in accordance with historic monument requirements during the next few years, with a new museum building being added.
KLINGELHĂ–FERSTRASSE 14 10785 BERLIN, MITTE
INSPIRATION TRIP
In 1919, the beginning of a new era was the view of architecture and art. The two art schools in Weimar were merged and Staatliches Bauhaus was formed with Walter Gropius as principal. Bauhaus has had a great influence on modern art and architecture and can be seen as a precursor to functionalism.
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BERLIN
BOUTIQUE
Odeeh With their label ODEEH Otto Drögsler and Jörg Ehrlich stand for a now rare atelier tradition since 2008. ODEEH is the result of the designer duo’s pursuit of perfection and passion for their collection.
LOCATION
INSPIRATION TRIP
POTSDAMER STRASSE 81A 10785 BERLIN CONTACT +49 (0)30 263 976 23 shop@odeeh.com
OPEN HOURS
Mon - Sat
11:00 - 19:00
LOCATION
Potsdamer Strasse 81A The location is particularly special; the Anton-von-Werner-House, which forms part of a group of villas, is the only surviving private art house from Berlin’s Wilhelmine period. It was named after the painter Anton von Werner, who moved to Berlin during the imperial period in 1871, and was designed by architect Ernst Klingenberg two years later in 1873. After several renovations in 1938 and 1939, only the ground floor remained intact. And it was here that a valuable discovery was made in 1988: removing the layers of paint on the walls and ceilings revealed some of Werner’s paintings, which depicted artistic representations of the early years of rapid industrial growth in Germany. The colour schemes and decor speak for his creativity; he was director of the University of Fine Arts and chairman of the Association of Berlin Artists (Verein Berliner Künstler).
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INSPIRATION TRIP
RESTAURANT & BAR
Panama LOCATION
POTSDAMER STRASSE 91 10785 BERLIN CONTACT +49 (0)30 983 208 435 hello@oh-panama.com
OPEN HOURS
Mon - Sat Open from 6 PM
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www.caroline-biss.com
LASCANA ‘IT’S A WOMAN’S WORLD’ ARTICLE
‘LASCANA – It’s a woman’s world’ is a multi-brand concept established in 2006, present on the German underwear and swimwear market with 27 own-brand stores, 9 company-owned international online shops, 1,100 shop-in-shop and wholesale shopping areas alongside market place business. LASCANA stands for high quality and an excellent fit at attractive prices. Well-known licensed brands such as Bench, s.Oliver, Jette, Buffalo, Sunseeker or Venice Beach next to the own brand LASCANA add an exclusive aspect, complementing the product range.
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OTTO’S SUCCESSFUL SUBSIDIARY Hamburg-based lingerie and swimwear retailer LASCANA, an Otto Group subsidiary, continues to accelerate its expansion. In the financial year 2018/19, LASCANA has increased sales by 35% in comparison to the previous year, reaching 276 million Euros. Figures cover global LASCANA sales turnover as well as sales for the own brand, LASCANA within the Otto Group. LASCANA thus achieved a double-digit increase in revenue for the fifth consecutive year.
ARTICLE
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LASCANA INCREASES REVENUE BY MORE THAN 70 MILLION EUROS Worldwide annual turnover increased by 35% totalling 276 million Euros Substantial US market expansion through cooperation with Victoria’s Secret
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World news with details in every aspect New Smart Simple Storage
FÖLJ OSS!
FINNS HOS UTVALDA ÅTERFÖRSÄLJARE.
1.
Push the limits Innovative details and technical materials are essential when it comes to the great outdoors. The right sportswear and accessories ensure you reach your goals in the best way possible. These are just a handful of the products we’re loving!
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3.
6.
1. Bioracer Triathlon suit “Aquaracer� is developed for the Olympic games and absorbs 40% less water which results in faster swimming times. bioracer.com 2. Waterproof multifunctional backpack Proof 28. Made in Germany. vaude.com 3. Army Leather Patrol Gauntlet. Warm and durable glove, suitable for those who often ski powder and need a reliable glove on the mountain. hestragloves.com
5. From the technologic capsule collection, a stretch fabric coverall featuring a waist belt, ski pass pocket and waterproof zips. colmar.it
5.
TRENDSPOTTING
4. Conscious Connected Tigths. Made from recycled fabric that offers maximum breathability and 360 movement. casall.com
6. Yoga mat made with a cork surface and a TPE base. sandqvist.com
7.
7. Maloja ScuolaM. - Lightweight down jacket. Insulation is made from recycled down (700 cuin) with 90% down and 10% feathers. maloja.de 8. 7SPHERE HYDRO_BOT ski jacket with its revolutionary electronic, user-controlled HYDRO_BOT membrane, actively pumps sweat out from inside the jacket to the outside. kjus.com
HYDRO_BOT membrane
8.
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DISCOVER MORE AT NORTHSAILS.COM
ARTICLE TEXT & ILLUSTRATIONS DAMIEN LYNCH ALL PHOTOS COURTESY BY FASHIONSTOCK.COM
Of course, we mean Mr Lagerfeld. On the 19th of february 2019 Karl Lagerfeld passed away aged 85. For more than half a century he was known as one of the worlds most creative and prolific couturiers.
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ARTICLE
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ARTICLE
As a child growing up in Dublin in the 80s, on the ‘bad’ side of town, fashion and creativity were not often used in the vocabulary of people I knew. However, we had heard of a strange little German man who had become the new Designer at a company called Chanel, whatever that meant? That’s just how prolific Karl Lagerfeld was, even in a time before internet and social media he was already a household name, whether you were interested in fashion or not. Lagerfeld was born in Hamburg in 1933. As a child he spent a lot of his school time drawing and sketching and apparently only continued school so he could learn the French language. In 1953 he moved to Paris and two years later he entered a competition to design a coat, which he won and soon started making a name for himself. He became friends with the young Yves Saint Laurent and not long after, Lagerfeld landed his first job as assistant to Pierre Balmain and then later became his apprentice. Lagerfeld then went on to become creative director for Jean Patou designing couture collections for the brand over the next 5 years. In 1964 he moved to Italy to study art history and worked as a freelancer for a multitude of design houses such as Charles Jourdan, Chloe, Krizia and Valentino. In 1967 he was hired by Fendi to modernise the brand. His designs proved ground-breaking for the brand - he even designed the famous Fendi logo, which, to this day, is one of the worlds most counterfeited logos. Lagerfeld remained with Fendi until his death. While Lagerfeld is synonymous with Chanel & Fendi it should not be over looked that he also worked as creative director for Chloe twice, initially between 1963 and 1983 and then again between 1992 and 1997.
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By the 1980s Karl Lagerfeld had become a major star in the fashion world and was a favourite among the paparazzi who loved to chronical his changing tastes. He also kept company with the so-called jet set and would often be photographed at nightclubs such as Studio 51 with other socialites and friends like Andy Warhol. In the early 80s Lagerfeld was hired by Chanel which at the time was considered a » Near dead brand«. As we all know, he managed to revamp the brand and make Chanel what it is today a multi-billion-dollar empire. We’re all aware of the brands iconic interlocked CC monograph of Coco Chanel that he managed to incorporate in nearly all of his collections for the house over the years. The couturier seemed to love a good scandal - regularly courting controversy - and the press loved him for it. Over the years he was accused of being fat-phobic, Islamophobic,
151 Chanel show - Fall/Winter 2018/2019 - Paris By FashionStock.com
ARTICLE
Chanel show - Spring/Summer 2019 - Paris By FashionStock.com
opposing the #MeToo movement and being racist, among a list of other things. Anna Wintour famously walked out of his 1993 Fendi show as the Italian porn star Moana Pozzi was modelling his swimsuit collection for the brand. He once stated that German “It girl” Heidi Klum was insignificant in the world of high fashion and neither he nor Claudia Schiffer knew Klum as she had never worked in Paris. In 2012 he also called the British singer Adele »a little too fat«. Call him what you like but Karl Lagerfeld new how to stay relevant and was his own best PR agent. As far as creativity goes Lagerfeld has done it all. From designing clothes, being a world-renowned photographer, lending his voice as the fictional radio host on the computer game Grand theft auto IV, creating a teddy bear for the German manufacturer Steiff, realising one of his childhood ambitions
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by becoming a professional caricaturist and having his drawings published in the German newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung. He also worked across films and advertisements and designed a line of glassware for the Swedish company Orrefors - the list goes on. As much as Karl Lagerfeld loved the limelight in life, he didn’t much care for sentiment and nostalgia and in his death requested no formal funeral and that his ashes be spread on secret locations alongside his mother and his late partner Jacques de Bascher. Whether you are somehow working in the fashion industry or that young boy growing up on the wrong side of town anywhere in the world. You will have felt the shockwaves Karl Lagerfeld sent around the world in his lifetime and also with his death earlier this year.
By Creative Lab
Chanel show - Spring/Summer 2019 - Paris By FashionStock.com
ARTICLE
Chanel show - Spring/Summer 2019 - Paris By FashionStock.com
THAT “SWEATPANTS” QUOTE AND MORE KARL LARGERFELD WAS NOT ONLY FAMOUS FOR HIS CLOTHING DESIGNS, PERFUMES, AND PHOTOGRAPHY. BUT ALSO FOR HIS SARTORIAL SERVICE AND WITTICISMS AND HIS ICONIC ABILITY TO THROW SHADE, WHICH WERE OFTEN CONTROVERSIAL, BUT NONE-THE-LESS CONTRIBUTED TO HIS INFLUENCE AS A CULTURAL LEADER. HERE ARE SOME OF HIS MOST FAMOUS QUOTES.
Never use the word “cheap”. Today everybody can look chic in inexpensive clothes (the rich buy them too). There is good clothing design on every level today. You can be the chicest thing in the world in a T-shirt and jeans — it’s up to you.
There is nothing worse than bringing up the ’good old days.’ To me, that’s the ultimate acknowledgment of failure.
Dieting is the only game where you win when you lose!
I’m a working-class person, working with class.
I’m very much down to earth, just not this earth.
I have a sort of Alzheimer’s for my own work, which I think is a very good thing. Today too many people remember what they did – just forget it all and start again.
When people talk about the good old days, I say to people, ’It’s not the days that are old, it’s you that’s old.’ I hate the good old days. What is important is that today is good. « »Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life, so you bought some sweatpants. When I was younger, I wanted to be a caricaturist. In the end, I’ve become a caricature.
Trendy is the last stage before tacky.
I’ve been lucky. I didn’t finish school. I learned nothing. It is all improvisation. And yet I am not doing badly. I hate intellectual conversation with intellectuals because I only care about my opinion.
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ZIPPER PULLER COLLECTION BY NILORN
YUKON
BREKKU
COSMOPOLITS
RESPEKT
YUK 105
BRE 110
CTE 109
RE 115
RECAP
156
RESPEKT 2
NORDBERG
VELOCITY
YUKON
NORDBERG
RE 214
NRB 112
VEL 110
YUK 104
NRB 113
NEW FOUNDRY
RESPEKT 2
NUCHONI STUDIOS
CLEAR AS MUD
YUKON
NF 117
RE 215
NS 316
CAM 115
YUK 106
VANGILS.EU
SYSTEM PARTNER
BEYOND AWARE 3- 5 S E P T 1 9 I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T. C O M | # M U N I C H FA B R I C S TA R T