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PUB LICATI ON

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NI LORN

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1/ 2019


COVER PHOTO Photo Olof Händén

Nilorn Worldwide is an international company, established in 1977, focused on adding value to brands by using

Styling Andrea Albertyn

branding and design in the form of labels, packaging and accessories. Customers principally represent the fashion

Hair/ Make up Richard Wilkinson

and ready-to-wear industry. Nilorn Worldwide offers complete, creative and tailored concepts in branding,

Models Daniela Molatudi - Ice Models

design, product development and logistic solutions. Satisfied customers are our principal asset, and it is therefore

Noah Curko - Ice Models

important to establish, maintain and enhance customer relations through first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is one of the leading European players, with turnover of ca 60 M EUR0. The group operates through its own

PAPER

companies in Sweden, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Portugal, Hong Kong, India, China,

Cover Tom & Otto silk 300g

Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy. In addition, there are partner companies in Switzerland, Tunisia and USA.

Body Tom & Otto silk 150g

Uncoated Amber Graphic 150g

N VA

ENMÄRK

Trycksak 3041 0234

E T

S

Print Stema Specialtryck AB, Borås, Sweden

www.nilorn.com


2 9 T H - 3 1 ST JA N UA RY 2 0 19

I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA B R I C T R A D E FA I R M U N I C H FA B R I C STA R T

SPRING SUMMER 2020 W W W. M U N I C H FA B R I C STA R T . C O M


SHOP ZEB.BE

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odd band of scientists, artists, designers and adventurers, we’re pushing the boundaries of how outdoor clothing is made. Together with our customers, we’re recycling, renting, repairing and reusing our way to a new, sustainable outdoor industry.

TOGETHER WITH AN

Explore our universe at houdinisportswear.com


table of

CONTENTS

84 62

80

13

WELCOME Dear Reader

16

BCI Better Cotton Initiative

24

PERFORMANCE DAYS Functional Fabric Fair

26

PANTONE Colour of the Year - Living Coral Coated / Uncoated

31

NILORN WORLDWIDE Denmark


106

16

118

56

104

84

19:1 DESIGN COLLECTIONS Product development and fashion shoot

118

GERMAN DESIGN AWARD Patch in recycled material

122

RECAP Button collection by Nilorn

40

VANBRUUN Diamonds are forever

124

PANTONE Coated / Uncoated

48

PLASTICS The way forward

104

RECAP Button collection by Nilorn

55

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT Around the world

128

INTERVIEW Meet Peter Collins

80

WINTER WONDERLAND Products to keep you warm

134

FUTURE FASHION A technological equation

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HEADQUARTERS NILÖRNGRUPPEN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel. +46 33 700 88 88 Fax +46 33 700 88 19 info@nilorn.com www.nilorn.com

SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS NILÖRN AB Wieslanders väg 3 Box 499 501 13 Borås SWEDEN Tel: +46 33 700 88 00 Fax:+46 33 700 88 48 info@nilorn.com BALLY LABELS AG Schachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 Schönenwerd SWITZERLAND Tel: +41 62 855 27 50 Fax: +41 62 855 27 59 info@bally.nilorn.com NILORN BANGLADESH LTD. Plot 1361, 5th and 6th fl. Avenue 10 Mirpur DOHS Dhaka -1216 BANGLADESH Tel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913 info@bd.nilorn.com NILORN BELGIUM NV Brusselsesteenweg 525 9090 Melle BELGIUM Tel: +32 9 210 40 90 info@be.nilorn.com NILORN DENMARK A/S Kongensgade 31B 5000 Odense C DENMARK Tel: +45 70 23 16 23 info@dk.nilorn.com NILORN EAST ASIA LTD Unit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square 48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong Kowloon HONG KONG Tel: +852 2 371 2218 Fax: +852 2 371 2629 info@hk.nilorn.com

NILORN GERMANY GMBH Itterpark 7 40724 Hilden GERMANY Tel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0 Fax: +49 2103 908 16 - 99 info@de.nilorn.com NILORN INDIA PVT. LTD Plot no. 9c, Sector – 3 Parwanoo – 173220 (HP) INDIA Tel. +91 1792 235232 Fax +91 1792 233176 info@in.nilorn.com NILORN ITALY Via del Bramante 34 41012 Carpi (MO) ITALY Tel: +39 3381611351 info@it.nilorn.com NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD 2nd Floor, Yasir Chambers Gulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13A Main University Road P.O. Box 75300 Karachi PAKISTAN Tel: +92 21 349 92151 Fax:+92 21 349 92153 info@pk.nilorn.com NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDA Rua Central de Barrosas, 304 4585 - 902 Recarei – Paredes PORTUGAL Tel: +351 22 411 95 80 Fax: +351 22 411 95 99 info@pt.nilorn.com NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITED Rm 701, 288, Chengjiaqiao Road. Minhang District, Shanghai, CHINA Poastal Code 201103 Tel: +86-21 345 512 90 info@sh.nilorn.com

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NILORN TURKEY Baģlar Manhallesi 49 Sokak No: 50 K:3 Baģcilar/Istanbul TURKEY Tel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 10 info@tr.nilorn.com NILORN UK LTD 1A Acre Park Dalton Lane Keighley West Yorkshire BD21 4JH UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44 1535 673 500 info@uk.nilorn.com NILORN USA LLC 3499 Meier Street Los Angeles, CA 90066 UNITED STATES Tel: +1 888-315 1875 info@us.nilorn.com


Dear Reader It is with great pleasure that I welcome you to the 1st Nilorn branding magazine of 2019. I am glad to present our latest product developments, ideas and inspiration within the world of branding. We have focused on a number of interesting areas and I would like to highlight just a few – such as the article about “Fashion for the future”. Our way of life is not particularly good for the environment and we need to change when it comes to production and how we consume goods/ materials – we need to change in order to save our planet. We also have an article about the “Better Cotton initiative BCI” which explains the aim and ideas behind it. In fact, as much as 50% of all textiles around the world are made of cotton – it is a natural resource that is vulnerable and needs a lot of resources. We present interviews - one of them with “VANBRUUN” a company that is offering Sweden´s largest supply of certified diamonds. You can read more about the interesting founder Victor Halvarsson and the story of his brand and company. We have the pleasure of also presenting our Danish operation in Odense and the local team behind it. As always we present our latest product developments and new concept collections that we hope will inspire you. Nilorn has more than half a century of experience in creating and supporting brands, helping them to be more visible and successful – we can do the same for you. You are most welcome to contact any of our sales offices around the world for support and guidance - we hope to be your first choice in branding. Please enjoy.

All the best,

Claes af Wetterstedt CE O

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BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE Cotton is the most widespread profitable non-food crop in the world. Its production provides income for more than 250 million people worldwide and employs almost 7% of all labour in developing countries. Approximately half of all textiles are made of cotton. Cotton is a renewable natural resource, but the future of cotton production is vulnerable to environmental degradation, poor working conditions and unstable markets. In 2005, a group of visionary organisations came together to develop a practical solution that would secure the sustainable future of the industry. The result was Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), today the largest cotton sustainability programme in the world.

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BY 2020, THE GOAL IS TO TRAIN 5 MILLION FARMERS WORLDWIDE ON MORE SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURAL PRACTICES AND THAT BETTER COTTON WILL ACCOUNT FOR 30% OF GLOBAL COTTON PRODUCTION.

AIM The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) aims to transform cotton production worldwide by developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity.

MISSION BCI exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future.

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ARTICLE

The Better Cotton Standard System is a holistic approach to sustainable cotton production which covers all three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social and economic. The system is designed to ensure the exchange of good practices, and to encourage the scaling up of collective action to establish Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity. Since it began, BCI has made significant progress. In the 2016-17 cotton season, Better Cotton was grown in 21 countries by 1.3 million licensed BCI Farmers and accounted for 14% of global cotton production. By 2020, the goal is to train 5 million farmers worldwide on more sustainable agricultural practices and that Better Cotton will account for 30% of global cotton production.

BRANDING

In the 2016-17 season, cotton was produced to the Better Cotton Standard in Australia, Brazil, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, China, Cote d’Ivoire, Ghana, India, Israel, Kazakhstan, Madagascar, Mozambique, Pakistan, South Africa, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Turkey, Uganda, USA, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Capacity building is central, the approach is to support and train BCI Farmers to increase productivity and improve their profits, in a way that is better for people and for the environment. Training is carried out by experienced and efficient implementing partners.

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Better Cotton Initiative 2017 • 1,582,459 Farmers participating • 1,299,243 BCI Farmers • 3,309,000 Better Cotton Hectares • 3,262,000 MT of Better Cotton Lint produced • 14% of world cotton production • 21 countries across 5 continents

BCI receives funding from three sources: earned income for services delivered such as membership fees; grants and donations from private and public funders; and volume-based fees and funding from brands. BCI Retailer and Brand Members pay a fee based on the amount of Better Cotton they source. The fees are channelled to the Better Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund (BCI’s farm support programme) and matched by public and private donations. These funds directly support training and skill development for farmers around the world. BCI have 1,394 members spanning the cotton supply chain – 98 retailers and brands, 1,214 suppliers and manufacturers, 28 producer organisations, 40 civil society members and 14 associate members.

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SOURCE

www.worldwildlife.org bettercotton.org 2017.bciannualreport.org/#aim-mission-story

Find out more about BCI here: bettercotton.org


©M.SANDINHA

w w w.armorlux.com


ARTICLE

Performance Days FUNCTIONAL FABRIC FAIR In a rather small and familiar venue, is the place to be twice a year for the sourcing of high performance functional fabrics and accessories. For Nilorn Germany 2018 was the first time they took part – and it was a great success. WORDS: CHRISTINA WALTER

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With 297 exhibitors from 29 nations, PERFORMANCE DAYS exhibits the latest trends in fabric development for the functional textile industry. The fair offers visitors everything from textiles to yarns, finishes and accessories. The core of the exhibition is the PERFORMANCE FORUM with a selection of novelties creating an inspiring platform.

THE PERFECT VENUE TO MEET OUR OUTDOOR CLIENTS

With its complete selection of high quality materials and accessories, the functional fabric fair attracts major international manufacturers, nearly all of the wellknown sportswear and active clothing brands and the sportive fashion collection industry. „Performance days is a great venue for us to meet our sportswear and outdoor clients but also to make new promising contacts“, says Simon Leppich, Managing Director at Nilorn Germany. „Thanks for all those who came along and for the many inspiring discussions. We are looking forward to meeting again – we will be back at the next fair 8th – 9th of May 2019.“

„WATER - OUR RESPONSIBILITY“

Every PERFORMANCE DAYS fair has featured a dedicated theme, the so-called “Focus Topic” that deals with a developing core trend in functional clothing. Experts, researchers and speakers share valuable information during a program presented over the two days of the fair. This season, the focus topic was „water - our responsibility“ – an issue of special priority, when you realise that some 1.1 billion people worldwide lack access to water and plastic waste in the ocean‘s dramatically damages marine life and our planet.

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PANTONE 2029 C 16-1546 TPG CMYK 0, 62, 41, 0 BRANDING

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PANTONE 2029 U 16-1529 TPG CMYK 0, 60, 38, 0 BRANDING

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NEW SPRING-SUMMER 2019 COLLECTION This brand new collection comes with an overdose of happiness and the tool’s to enjoy life to the fullest. Knitwear, sweatshirts, t-shirts, all injected with the brand’s colourful DNA and the immediacy of ’here, together, right now’, represented this season by the Polaroid capsule. A limited edition collection in-line with our fleeting LEGO and NASA items from the Autumn-Winter 2018 collection. At Jules, our vision of men’s fashion is quite different, focusing on facility and simplicity: ’zero stress, zero bad style’, whilst limiting waste as much as possible. Preserving nature thanks to a new eco-responsible collection made in France, in style ’à la française’ and saving time with mantras such as ’smile. simple. basic.’ and services 100% designed to make life easier. In a nutshell, these are more than just clothes, they are a way of life!


NILORN WORLDWIDE

C O L L E C T I O N P/ E 1 9 BRANDING

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www.masai.dk


NILORN WORLDWIDE

Denmark

N I L O R N W O R L DW I D E all lights on

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NILORN WORLDWIDE

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NILORN WORLDWIDE

NILORN DENMARK THE VISIT Nilorn Denmark is situated on the island of Fyn in Odense, the third largest city in Denmark. The picturesque city is, among other things, the birthplace of famous children’s storyteller Hans Christian Anderson. “Nilorn Denmark is situated perfectly in Odense, geographically speaking, because it is positioned in the middle of the three largest regions that make up Denmark. This makes travelling to clients which are spread over all three regions, easy and fast for the Danish Sales people to have face-to-face client meetings. Establishing and maintaining rapport with our clients is an important part of our day-to-day life at Nilorn Denmark” says Managing Director Michael Seedorff.

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NILORN WORLDWIDE

“IT´S A JOY TO COME TO WORK IN THE MORNINGS”

Another interesting reason for having the Danish office situated on the island of Fyn is that the city of Odense is in the process of transforming itself into a large modern city with a lively town centre, modernised harbour, light railway and various active environments. It has already invested a number of years and large amounts of resources into realising this. This has attracted high-tech companies such as Facebook who are building a data centre that is run on 100% renewable energy, and a large number of robotics companies have sprung up around the city’s university area. This all makes Odense a modern yet charming Danish city. THE INTERIOR DESIGN IS A FEAST FOR THE EYES

The Danish office is located in the heart of the city on Kongensgade surrounded by cosy café’s and shops. The office space is very special as it’s a shared concept office space with its interior designed by the Danish company Mark & Waldorf. Over 500 square metres, the interior design is a feast for the eyes, both colourful and stylish.

A large conference room which is full of light is the perfect place to show Nilorn client concepts and also where face-to-face or video conferences can be held with the large TV screen. If the large room is busy, it’s no problem as there is a second smaller room which is also perfect for meetings. The large open plan kitchen has all modern conveniences and the individual cafe tables and chairs make it the perfect place for the Nilorn team to share with other cross-media creatives, making the area a melting pot for new ideas and networking. “It’s a joy to come to work in the mornings, take a few minutes to grab a coffee and get motivated by the posters on the wall with sayings such as ‘YOU’RE A CATCH’ or ‘YOU’RE THE BEST’ - and there’s always some kind of knick-knack I find that inspires me on a daily basis. Now that’s a way to start the day” says Art Director Damien Lynch.

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NILORN WORLDWIDE

The core team employed at our Danish office are Key Account Manager (and avid handball player) Peter Skovgaard, Managing Director (and bicycle fanatic) Michael Seedorff, our Shipment Supervisor (aka Miss Google, Gymnast and Employee of the year 2018) Mia Lykten Sonne and Sales Assistant (and mobile trimming encyclopaedia) Jette Mathiasen. In 2017, Nilorn Group acquired HC Label Company and with it, two of its best employees: working in back office support, Annie Elkrog (who, by the way, is a superb golf player with a handicap of 28 and a half!) and Hanne Preshardt who is already one of the super-user’s of our new IT system NAV. Then there is Graphic Art Director (and clothes collector) Damien Lynch, who originally comes from Dublin, Ireland, but has fallen for the Danish way of life and Danish Hygge! “The word hygge translated to English means cosy. But you really have to be together with the Danes to experience what REAL Hygge is” adds Damien. Nilorn Denmark is a modern and global company. Bookkeeping is taken care of in both our HQ in Sweden and in our sister company in Hong Kong and stock-keeping is spread out around the world in India, Bangladesh, China, Portugal and Turkey. Our design and sales space is shared with other creative cross-media businesses allowing us to utilise all the synergy of a space that is filled with design, energy and ideas that our customers can only benefit from. IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP OUR FINGER ON THE PULSE

Last year Michael Seedorff celebrated 25 years working at Nilorn Denmark. In those 25 years the Danish fashion industry has changed drastically like so many other

countries. In today’s digital age of fast fashion, online shopping and product communication possibilities, it is important to keep our finger on the pulse and to be aware of new, innovative and sustainable ways of business – not only for Nilorn Denmark but for our clients too. “For a number of years now Nilorn Group has been actively involved in creating sustainable trimmings for our clients. The words Bluesign, FSC and Oeko-Tex have been a part of our vocabulary here in the Danish office for years”, says Peter Skovgaard, Key Account Manager. “More and more customers want, and are asking for, sustainable products and we believe this is the way of the future.” In today’s global jungle of laws and regulations, there is no such thing as ‘one-size-fits-all’ and often your brand’s products needs to fulfil certain criteria to be sold in a designated country. Here at Nilorn Denmark we find ourselves being asked to inform and guide our clients in the right direction because of Nilorn’s previous experience and with help from some of our partners such as Dansk Mode & Textile. We have always been able to find the right solution that is the right fit for our client and has helped add value to their product!

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NILORN WORLDWIDE

“FOR A NUMBER OF YEARS NOW NILORN GROUP HAS BEEN ACTIVELY INVOLVED IN CREATING SUSTAINABLE TRIMMINGS FOR OUR CLIENTS”

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NILORN WORLDWIDE

THOUGHTS ABOUT THE DIGITAL FUTURE Managing Director Michael Seedorff continually attends fairs and seminars in search of future trends and to keep up-to-date. We asked Michael about what future possibilities and trends that Nilorn could potentially benefit from.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE DIGITAL FUTURE HOLDS FOR US? MS: The digital future is not in a few years – it’s happening right now, in fact we are already in it. We need be open-minded and jump on the digital train, otherwise we will have missed the chance of catching the train and will not be a part of the digital future. For instance, in the digital world we can be in different locations and yet still be in the same room. Imagine wearing Virtual Reality glasses and within a second be in the same room as your customer presenting new and inspiring trim collections in a digital inspiring environment. In reality, all involved are physically in their own headquarters. Another possibility with VR is virtual meetings discussing Pantone colours, material quality, dimensions and artwork - making the workflow of approvals go faster and easier. Then sending samples via drone right to the customers door step. WHAT OTHER WAYS OF COMMUNICATION DO YOU THINK THERE WILL BE? MS: Another future prognosis is that, in the next four to five years, we will no longer use mobile phones. In the future a client may call you, but it will not be to a mobile phone. You will be using your watch, or another small device integrated in such things as jewellery. Voice activated and controlled, one command will project your phone call to a virtual screen and you can talk to your client face to face. We’re already seeing the first generation of these devices i.e. Apple Watch, Google glasses, Alexa etc.

WHAT POSSIBLE FUTURE SOLUTIONS WILL NILORN PROVIDE? MS: Another hi-tech possibility which we have already been using now for a number of years successfully, is our RIS (Retail Information System) program. Our clients and their suppliers can log on to the Nilorn webpage, activate the RIS software, then add the text they want on their care labels. The Nilorn RIS program will translate the text into the desired languages the customer requires and washing symbols can be added to the care labels. Press a button and all of the information you have entered is transformed in to artwork. This artwork is then sent to a Nilorn print station in an area of the world close to the customers production and is ready to be collected and sewn on to the garment. This saves a lot of administrative time and artwork approvals and creates a care label with correctly spelled information and a look that you the customer has chosen.

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WW WW W .. S SC CA AP PA AW W WO OR R LL D D .. C CO OM M


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DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER WORDS: PATRICK HJERTÉN

A wedding day is most likely one of the most important days in your life. One of the most significant and most visible details of that day, and that union, is the ring on your finger. Since it is a statement that will be enduring and worn day in and day out – until death us do part – it should definitely be a ring that is easy on the eye.

In the heart of Västergötland, in Sweden’s capital for textiles, Borås, you will find the new way of acquiring that precious stone. With VANBRUUN you can take a digital approach in the hunt for the ring that symbolises everything that you want to tell to your spouse and project to the world.

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“BRANDING TO ME IS THAT EXTRA SPECIAL SOMETHING YOU GET THAT YOU CANNOT SEE WITH THE NAKED EYE.”

SWEDEN’S LARGEST SUPPLIER OF DIAMONDS

VANBRUUN is a Swedish company that was established in 2013 and the company’s concept is to offer the market wedding-related jewellery with prices far below competing companies. They promise that they have Sweden’s largest supply of certified diamonds, with around 100 000 diamonds to choose from which can easily be browsed thanks to VANBRUUN’s unique search function. The stones themselves are combined by the consumer with jewellery in the most precious metals that are handcrafted in England and Sweden. VICTOR IS VICTORIOUS

The man behind the VANBRUUN brand is twentynine year old Victor Halvarsson, who, over the last few years, has made a career and life transformation. He has gone from banker to diamond merchant through the combination of a desire to start his own business and his own search for a diamond ring, together with his future wife. She pointed to a ring that she would like to have and then Victor Halvarsson went home to search the Internet for a similar ring for his bride-to-be. What he found was a number of webpages that sold quality diamonds at affordable prices. These companies were mostly based in the US but there were none in Sweden.

Victor Halvarsson decided to fill that gap and the the next step was to gather research. He went to a diamond fair in London where he met industry people and quickly realised that it was not easy to get into the closely-knit diamond community. The diamond merchants demanded references from Victor Halvarsson, but since he was completely new to the field he had none. Tenaciousness and strong will were the tools that Victor Halvarsson used to open the doors into the industry. A NAME WITH DUTCH FLAIR

Victor Halvarsson left his bank job in 2013 and founded his company. He chose the name VANBRUUN because it has a Dutch ring to it and it was an internationally viable choice. The Dutch feel is a nod to the fact that Holland is a successful and prominent country when it comes to the trade of diamonds. In 2014 the website was launched and now, four years later, the company has a staff of five people and a turnover of 36 million Swedish Krona.

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AFFORDABLE LUXURY AT STUNNING PRICES. THE ONLINE BOUTIQUE FOR ENGAGEMENT RINGS AND DIAMONDS. A MODERN WAY TO PURCHASE CLASSIC LUXURY.

VANBRUUN.COM


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VICTOR HALVARSSON GRACIOUSLY ANSWERED A FEW QUESTIONS WE HAD ABOUT HIS FLOURISHING BUSINESS.

WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE A CAREER IN THE JEWELLERY BUSINESS? It was actually a coincidence. I started to look for a ring for my wife to be and could not find what I was looking for. HOW HAS THE JOURNEY BEEN? Like most businesses, the first two years were really tough. It was hard to get consumers since no one had heard about us and we did not have any money to buy any commercial spots to get someone to know about us. WHAT IS THE NEXT EVOLUTION OF VANBRUUN? We are trying to build a complete jewellery house. Today we mainly offer engagement and wedding related jewellery but in the future, we would like to offer more everyday jewellery as well.

and what they should pay. They are seeking the best quality possible for every dollar they invest in the jewellery. WHAT IS BRANDING TO YOU? Branding to me is that extra special something you get that you cannot see with the naked eye. WHAT INSPIRES YOU? Other brands and quite often hotels are my big passions. Hotels are all about branding and service and I try to incorporate as many details as possible from great hotels into the VANBRUUN experience. WHAT DO YOU THINK WILL BE VANBRUUN’S BIGGEST FUTURE CHALLENGE?

WHAT DOES THE VANBRUUN CONSUMER LOOK LIKE FROM YOUR PERSPECTIVE? The VANBRUUN consumer is a knowledge-hungry person who does not want to buy something overpriced. They generally know what they want

Our biggest challenge is to get consumers to go from offline to online. In the past the challenge was to win trust but now that we are past that part, it is to change the whole consumer behaviour.

QUALITY IS KEY VANBRUUN is a company that does not just focus on price, but also puts emphasis on quality. Where the wearer can be assured that the piece of jewellery will not lose shape or colour – and, most importantly, that the diamond stays put in its setting. The rings that VANBRUUN sell are mostly made in England, in Birmingham’s renowned jewellery district where there is a collective knowledge and expertise in the making of high quality goods. The cooperation with Birmingham also gives the consumers of VANBRUUN the opportunity to design their unique rings for that special and memorable day.

The goal for Victor Halvarsson and VANBRUUN is to grow internationally. The next step in their expansion is to enter the Norwegian market and since VANBRUUN’s website also has an English version, they can reach consumers all around the world. The future looks bright for Sweden’s largest diamond supplier. It is truly a company that sparkles - and its boss definitely has a twinkle in his eye.

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KATARINA ELNER-HAGLUND M. OF SCI. IN CHEMICAL ENGINEERING, WITH SPECIALIZATION POLYMERS. LECTURER AT LUND UNIVERSITY Working with industrial communication focused on R & D in plastics/elastomers/rubber and polymer composites. Aim to support the industry in the process to create plastic products – from product idea to mass production. Member of the board in Polymercentrum, a competence centre offering the industry an extensive educational program in plastics.

Plastics Every day we get information about plastic pollution of oceans and microplastic problems. It provokes many emotions and there is also a concern, in some cases, of a sense of hopelessness. This is an ongoing discussion, both in Sweden and internationally.

We had the opportunity to talk to Katarina Elner-Haglund regarding plastics and she starts the conversation with »for the first time, the question about plastic materials is being driven by the consumer”. This means that contemporary issues will arise and the industry faces new challenges while at the same time, there is a lot of research and development in the plastic field, according to Katarina. Plastics are not a single material. They are a whole group of different materials, with varying properties and applications. In the case of packaging, plastic used has a relatively low price, unlike other uses.

When a material has a value, there are natural incentives for recycling according to Katarina. If we see what is ending up in the wrong place or is thrown into nature, it is often packaging that lacks a secondary value and single-use plastic items are today a major source of plastic leakage into the environment. So, are bioplastics the solution? We tried to get a better understanding of the subject, but it is complicated. As an example, for compostable plastic, “there is a risk that users throw them into nature, one thinks »it breaks down« but depending on conditions it can take a very long time and behaviour contributes to increased littering, says Katarina”.


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BIOPLASTICS

Bioplastics are not just one single substance, they comprise of a whole family of materials with differing properties and applications. According to European Bioplastics, a plastic material is defined as a bioplastic if it is either biobased, biodegradable, or features both properties. Biobased - means that the material or product is (complete or partly) derived from a renewable source i.e biomass (plants) or carbon dioxide. Biomass used for bioplastics stems from e.g. corn, sugarcane or cellulose. One strives to increase the proportion of biomass. Biodegradable: Biodegradation is a chemical process during which micro-organisms that are available in the environment convert materials

into natural substances such as water, carbon dioxide and compost (artificial additives are not needed). The process of biodegradation depends on the surrounding environmental conditions (e.g. humidity and temperature), on the material and on the application. The property of biodegradation does not depend on the resource basis of a material but is rather linked to its chemical structure. In other words, 100 percent biobased plastics may be non-biodegradable, and 100 percent fossil-based plastics can biodegrade

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The graph ‘material coordinate system of bioplastics’ below depicts common types of bioplastics and how they are classified according to their biodegradability and biobased content.

BIOPLASTICS ARE BIO-BASED, BIODEGRADABLE OR BOTH. (GRAPH: MATERIAL COORDINATE SYSTEM OF BIOPLASTICS (SOURCE: WWW.EUROPEAN-BIOPLASTICS.ORG)

BIO-BASED Are bio-based

Are biodegradable and bio based

Bioplastics

Bioplastics

e.g. Bio-based PE PET, PTT

e.g. PLA, PHA, PBS, Starch blends

NOT BIODEGRADABLE

BIODEGRADABLE

Conventional plastics

Bioplastics

e.g. PBAT, PCL

nearly all conventional plastics e.g. PE, PP, PET Are biodegradable

FOSSIL-BASED

TO EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENT PRODUCT PROPERTIES, STANDARDS ARE IMPORTANT, SAYS KATARINA. AT EUROPEAN BIOPLASTICS SOME OPTIONS ARE PRESENTED:

One methodology to measure the biobased carbon content in materials or products is the 14C-method (EU standard: EN 16640 corresponding US-standard: ASTM 6866).

Certification schemes and derived product labels are available – for example by German certifier DIN CERTCO or TÜV Austria.

If a material or product is advertised to be biodegradable, further information about the timeframe, the level of biodegradation and the required surrounding conditions should be provided too.

European Bioplastics recommends focussing on the more specific claim of compostability and to back it up with corresponding standard references (ISO 17088, EN 13432 / 14995 or ASTM 6400 or 6868), a certification and an according label (seedling or OK compost label via TÜV Austria or DIN CERTCO)

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END-OF-LIFE OPTIONS FOR BIOPLASTICS

Material recycling plays a major role in a sustainable society. Plastic can often be recycled 6-7 times, before the molecule chains become too short - hence poorer material properties. When the plastic cannot be recycled anymore, it should go to energy recovery. Today, more than 40% of all plastic packaging in Sweden is recycled . In the EU it is less than 30 percent of the plastic waste generated that is collected for recycling. The goal for 2030 it that all plastic packaging in the EU is to be recycled. Material recycling of plastic is complicated as plastic waste is a mix of a variety of plastic types and the products also often consist of several materials. At end-of-life it is important to separate the different plastics, as the plastic recycling industry wishes to purge material streams to enable a better plastic product in the next step. Another challenge for recycling of plastic is the difference in the waste management infrastructure that is available in the different regions and countries where the product is being used.

END-OF-LIFE OPTIONS FOR BIOPLASTICS INCLUDE:

RECYCLING Bio-based, but non-biodegradable, plastic is in its structure and then in properties identical to their conventional counterparts, therefore to be recycled in the existing recycling streams.

If

biodegradable

material

enters

the

conventional

plastics stream and degrades in the recycling process it may change the characteristics and specification of the conventional material it is mixed with, which is not desired

COMPOST/BIODEGRATION A compostable product must meet specific criteria in terms of: time,

environmental conditions and quality

of compost produced. Many bioplastic products are designed to be compostable. However, in many cases, this compostability will only occur in the tightly controlled conditions of industrial composting facilities.

Biodegradable generally degrade under specific conditions which may not always be easy to find in the natural environment.


SOURCE: Fact sheet European Bioplastics, www.european-bioplastics.org www.sopor.nu www.bioplastics.guide The Danish Environmental Protection Agency - LCA of grocery carrier bags (2018) The Swedish Society for Nature Conservation

ANAEROBIC DIGESTION The method of using the waste from biodegradable plastics in bio-gasifiers and to convert it into useful methane is practiced at a very small scale at present. The anaerobic digestion of bioplastics has a great scope if it is combined with compostability leading to more efficient waste management.

In a circular economy, the value of

plastic

must

be

retained,

and new plastic products made from recycled plastic. It requires knowledge of which substances are part of the plastic, a knowledge that must accompany the plastic at all stages from manufacturer to seller, further to consumer and

CHEMICAL RECYCLING/FEEDSTOCK RECOVERY During recycling, the bioplastic can not only be melted and made into granules again for a new application, but in some cases, it can be broken back down into its starting chemical building block. For example, Lactic acid can be recovered from PLA and can be again used to make PLA resin. This is also called chemical recycling.

finally to recyclers. It also requires recycled

plastic

demanded

by

INCINERATION (ENERGY RECOVERY)

the manufacturers and by our

Energy recovery from plastics is a practice followed

consumers.

globally due to the high amount of heat generated from it. However, energy recovery should be the least preferred end-of-life option as it has every potential for other options such as recycling, compost and anaerobic digestion.

»REDUCE REUSE AND RECYCLE. WE SHALL NOT USE MORE THAN WE NEED« Katarina points out that there is a need for education and that it is important to look at the entire life cycle of the product. As an example she mentions the report “Life Cycle Assessment of grocery carrier bags” , this report provides a lifecycle assessment of production, use and disposal of shopping bags available in Danish supermarkets in autumn 2017. The main finding of the analysis is that with regards to production and disposal, LDPE lightweight carrier bags provide the overall lowest environmental impacts for most environmental indicators when not considering reuse, while the bag made of cotton had the highest environmental impact. Katarina finishes by pointing out that for plastic, as with any other material, applies Reduce Reuse and Recycle. We shall not use more than we need. Ultimately there has to be political decisions, public education and behavioural changes to increase the recycling of plastics.


T H E N AT U R A L S P I R I T OF S W E DE N S C A N D I N AV I A N

www.shepherdo f sweden.se

·

GENUINE

·

HANDCRAF TED


PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT Our ‘places you must visit’ pages offer an insight into just a few of the interesting sites, venues and shops we visit around the world that inspire us here at Nilorn.

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Spiral hat, silk, Balenciaga for Eisa, Spain, 1962 Š Victoria and Albert Museum, London


PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

Balenciaga EXHIBITION IN BORÃ…S CREATIVE GENIUS

The exhibition of Balenciaga gives you an understanding of the creative genius behind it. The garments on display tell the story of a man who knew exactly where to make a cut or position a neckline.

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

1

The opening of Balenciaga – Master of Couture at Borås Textile Museum on the 15th December marked a historical event. The exhibition about Balenciaga was curated by the Victoria & Albert museum in London commemorating the 100-year anniversary since Balenciaga opened his first atelier. The focus is on garments from the glory days of the 1950s and 60s and the exhibition also holds pieces made by other designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Yohij Yamamoto and Iris van Herpen - who have all been inspired by Balenciaga’s work. Over 200 000 people saw the exhibition at the V&A and in February 2018 it went on tour to four other places with Borås being the only other place in Europe where it is shown. It is also the first time an exhibition from the V&A has travelled to Sweden. Cristóbal Balenciaga founded his fashion house in Spain in 1917, dressing royalty and aristocracy. He had grown up in a

2

village with his widowed mother who got by working as a seamstress. Balenciaga had no formal training in design or tailoring but had an innate talent that was nurtured at the lap of his mother. Balenciaga’s rags to riches story started with the help of Marquesa de Casa Torres, who recognised his talent and made sure that he became an apprentice to a tailor in San Sebastián. Cristóbal Balenciaga was ambidextrous which meant that he could drape lines just as skilfully with both hands. The Spanish civil war in 1936-1939 made him close-up shop and move to Paris. Balenciaga opened his house on Avenue George V in 1937 and in two years-time he had built up a reputation as a brilliant couturier. It is said that customers risked travelling to France during the second World War to see his creations. The story goes that Balenciaga did not like the journalists, the photographers and the public so when a collection was being

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presented he sneaked into the work room to start draping the next collection. After the second World War, Balenciaga was one of the great houses alongside Dior and Givenchy. It was during this time that Balenciaga’s creativity came to full show - when the war was over a creative surge bloomed. After having shortages of everything from thread to fabric the highend designers exploded with ideas of new shapes and many times garments were created using masses of material. Another point of difference from Balenciaga’s work before the war was that his lines became more linear in the style of Dior’s New Look and Balenciaga worked a lot with silhouettes and, in doing so, he managed to play with the shape of a woman’s body. In 1951 for instance, he transformed the silhouette by broadening shoulders and removing the waist.


PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

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4

1. Evening dress, wild silk with embroidery by Lesage, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1960-1962 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

2. Cocktail dress, Crépe de chine, satin and lace, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1958 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

3. Couture garments by designers that remain in the spirit of Balenciaga, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, Yohij Yamamoto, Hussein Chalayan, Rei Kawakubo, Iris Van Herpen and others. Photo: Jan Berg

4 ‘La Tulipe’ pink gazar evening dress, EISA, autumn / winter 1965 Made for Ava Gardner © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

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Silk taffeta evening dress, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1955 Š Victoria and Albert Museum, London


PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

Elise Daniels with street performers, suit by Balenciaga, Le Marais, Paris, 1948. Photograph by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation

Noted clients of Balenciaga were Queen Fabiola of Belgium, the daughter of Marquessa de Casa Torres who paved Cristóbal Balenciaga’s way to become a tailor and couturier. Another famous client was Jackie Kennedy, to the dismay of her husband president John F Kennedy who was afraid of the public’s reaction to her purchases of expensive, European fashion. Jackie Kennedy’s Balenciaga clothes were therefore paid for by her father-in-law. Cristóbal Balenciaga did not like rules and guidelines of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne and was never a member, which technically means that his couture was never Haute Couture. Regardless, the work of Balenciaga was still talked of in the same sentences as architecture and sculpture, due to the precision of his clothes Balenciaga died in 1972 and the fashion house lay dormant until 1986 when the rights were bought by Jaques Bogart S.A. It was not until the 1990s that the brand was seen again as a purveyor for the elite.

Today Balenciaga is owned by Kering and is a sought-after luxury brand, in league with Dior and Chanel, among others. The exhibition which is on display in Borås until the 22nd April 2019 showcases garments which seem to defy gravity, shape and form. It is amazing to see what a few perfectly lined seams can do to transform the silhouette of the human body. Balenciaga knew all the tricks in the book making him an excellent tailor. He knew the limits and the possibilities of the fabrics he used and had vast knowledge of a body’s composition. A good designer and tailor knows how to conceal certain flaws and accentuate the strengths. The work of Balenciaga is a testament of just what can be achieved with fabric and impeccable tailoring. Especially when it was transformed by a man who had an eye that saw beyond the limits and therefore created something fantastic. Visit the exhibition and be dazzled.

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MESA THE WORLD ON A PLATE

MESA is a restaurant where it’s all about sharing flavours from around the globe. Serving dishes inspired by the ‘Tastes of the World’ cuisine at Tomorrowland: authentic recipes from the four corners of the earth, brought together for a unique culinary experience. Michiel De Bruyn compiled the menu, together with the creators of Tomorrowland, Manu & Michiel Beers. Thomas Snijders, Laurens Sijssens and Peter Kawaki are in charge of the kitchen crew, with the cocktail menu developed by Paul Morel and Senna Meloni providing a warm welcome as hostess. The interior of MESA was designed by Dieter Vander Velpen and the Tomorrowland creative team. You can reserve a table at MESA via the website mesa.world - but a reservation is not required to enjoy cocktails at the bar.


PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

In the lively Sint-Andries district in Antwerp, just steps from the Nationalestraat, the waterfront and the ‘Grote Markt’, you’ll find MESA. A restaurant where you can taste the whole world in an exceptional setting created by the team behind Tomorrowland. MESA is the product of a passion for travel, good food and togetherness - and that’s exactly what you’ll feel and taste at MESA. Architect Dieter Vander Velpen, who also designed the adjacent Tomorrowland offices in the former State Police headquarters, wanted to create a natural, inviting look & feel for MESA, where everyone can feel at home. The ground floor was opened up in order to give it more height, creating a wonderfully airy space. The finishing was done with sustainable materials for a stylish, timeless appeal. The absolute eyecatcher that strikes you as soon as you walk in is the extra tall bar shelving that extends up to the rafters. The

bar is made of vintage oak, repurposed from old train cars - a unique piece – and on the wall is a large world map, cut from blue steel. From the rear of the restaurant, there is a view onto the patio with a green sculpture by landscape designer Jan Bleys. It functions as a buffer between the restaurant MESA and the offices of Tomorrowland. On the first floor, you can pull up a chair at the ‘Chef’s Table’, with a view of the open kitchen made from wrought iron. Many of the design elements at MESA come straight from the Tomorrowland creative team. For example, the Tomorrowland x Staub cocottes are used for serving and the dishware was designed in collaboration with Studio Mattes from Herk-de-Stad.

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

In the kitchen, you’ll find the flavours, aromas and colours of the world. Chef’s Thomas Snijders, Laurens Sijssens, Peter Kawaki and creative chef Michiel De Bruyn have put together sensational recipes from the four corners of the earth, inspired by the ‘Tastes of the World’ cuisine at Tomorrowland. The MESA menu features dishes from a dozen different countries, prepared with ingredients from passionately dedicated growers, farmers and producers - sourced according to market availability and made with respect for traditional preparation methods. For the Ceviche, the chefs travelled to Peru to learn the authentic preparation technique locally. The dishes are designed for sharing on the table, so you can order a sharing menu for groups of four or more. You can choose to share 4 dishes at €55 per person, or 3 dishes at €45 per person. Highlights of the menu include the Taco de Pastor (Mexico), Mjadra – a dish made with seabass (Lebanon), stuffed aubergine (France), smoked eel from the Oosterschelde (the Netherlands), spicy squid with padron peppers from Spain and gambas worthy of

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

India’s finest. For dessert: Chocolate Sao Tomé (Brazil) and Amalfi Lemon (Italy). To go with your meal, you can sample a matching cocktail. Mixologist Paul Morel developed cocktails to go with the dishes that have a perfectly paired flavour palette. For example, the Secret Garden, a Peruvian Ceviche, would be paired with a Pisco Sour What’s more, the bar opens at 9pm for guests who want to come and taste the MESA cocktails – no reservations required. Reservations at MESA for lunch are available for parties of 2 or more (all sharing dishes are intended to be shared by 2 people or more) and diner starting from groups of 4 persons or a special barmenu in the evening for 2 persons. In the dining room, Senna Meloni will be on hand to help you enhance every dish with an expert selection of international wines, cocktails and mocktails and a warm, relaxed vibe.


PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

"MIXOLOGIST PAUL MOREL DEVELOPED COCKTAILS TO GO WITH THE DISHES THAT HAVE A PERFECTLY PAIRED FLAVOUR PALETTE"

MESA KLOOSTERSTRAAT 99 2000 ANTWERPEN www.mesa.world

SOCIAL facebook.com/MesaAntwerp instagram/mesaantwerp soundcloud.com/mesa_world

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

Vertical forest Vertical Forest is a model for a sustainable residential building, a project for metropolitan reforestation contributing to the regeneration of the environment and urban biodiversity.

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

The first example of the Vertical Forest consisting of two residential towers of 110 and 76 m height, was realised in the centre of Milan, on the edge of the Isola neighbourhood. It hosts 800 trees (each measuring 3, 6 or 9 metres), 4,500 shrubs and 15,000 plants from a wide range of shrubs and floral plants distributed according to the sun exposure of the facade. On flat land, each Vertical Forest equals, in amount of trees, an area of 20,000 square metres of forest. The vegetal system of the Vertical Forest contributes to the construction of a microclimate, produces humidity, absorbs CO2 and dust particles and produces oxygen.

of the interiors, materials and resources used, the project and the choice of the site. Besides the trees absorbing 20,000 kg of CO2 per year and equivalent to 20,000 sqm of real forest, the towers use geothermal energy. The four underground pumps heat the apartments of the Vertical Forest and the other surrounding buildings. Another advantage of the green facade is its capability to reduce, in the summer, the temperature inside the apartments by 2-3 °C, with a direct environmental impact on the air conditioning system of the buildings. Nanjing towers, covered with 1,100 trees from 23 local species and 2,500 cascading plants, are expected to produce 60 kg of oxygen per day and to absorb 25 tons of CO2 each year. This data makes us understand that it is not a matter of cost efficiency, but instead a responsibility.

Vertical Forest increases biodiversity. It helps to set up an urban ecosystem where a different kind of vegetation creates a vertical environment which can also be colonized by birds and insects. Vertical Forest is a landmark in the city which is able to depict new kinds of variable landscapes changing their look over seasons, depending on the types of plants involved. The Vertical Forests will offer a changing view of the metropolitan city below.

The species chosen for these towers are seasonal, so in summer the foliage protects the apartments from sunlight and heat, reducing the temperature inside up to 3°C. In winter, when daylight hours are fewer, the trees lose their leaves opening the view and letting the sunlight come in.

Irrigation is one of the “smart” technological skills that makes the Vertical Forest an innovative building. The method of sub-irrigation is implemented in order to minimise energy waste. The management is independent for the small groups of tanks, in order to adequate consumption to real needs, diversified according to exposure and height. There is also a system of probes detecting possible malfunctions remotely. The building is conceived thinking of the life of plants, therefore the structural features basically consider all elements, both mineral and vegetal, morphological, biological, thermal and atmopspheric aspects.

The immediate effects of Vertical Forests, once built, are CO2 absorption and oxygen production: this way the Forest city definitely contributes to the reduction of smog and other negative environmental effects. There are more or less 40 species of birds and species of “useful” insects, like bumblebees, heremit wild bees, syrphidae and lepidoptera. Moreover, the towers host populations of pollinator insects, which are in extinction in cities, an effect of the disappearance of brownfields. For this reason we tried to create a microhabitat with spontaneous flowers and plants, with a much wider variety than any public garden.

The two residential towers of the Vertical Forest have Gold LEED Certificate, which recognises the sustainable performance of the buildings in the key features, such as energy and water saving, reduction of CO2 emissions, improvement of the ecological quality

For more info about the vertical forest:

www.stefanoboeriarchitetti.net/en/project/vertical-forest/

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

NEW YORK SHOWROOM 16 Howard Street. New York, NY 10013

OPENING HOURS MONDAY-FRI: 11am - 7pm SATURDAY - SUNDAY: 12pm - 6pm

Ph: 212.625.1797

mcrowcompany.com

ECCENTRIC CRAFT IT LOOKS RATHER UNDERSTATED FROM OUTSIDE BUT WHEN YOU ENTER THIS CONCEPT DESIGN STORE, A UNIQUE WORLD CAPTURES YOU.

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PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

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Founder and multihyphenate designer Tyler Hays is the brains behind the M. Crow operation, a labour-of-love homeware store located on Howard St, SoHo. As a child, Hays dreamed of making everything he would ever use or need in his life from scratch and, as an adult, the Oregon-born, Philadelphia-based designer is living out this fantasy and sharing the results with his large loyal following. From clothing (jeans, button downs, handpainted sweatshirts) and accessories (bolo ties, leather carriers) to kitchen utensils

(ceramic

pitchers,

steak

knives), furniture (plywood tables, speakers),

objects

for

the

home

and more. M. Crow has your every need covered - and the high-quality promises a lifetime of use. M. Crow pieces are a rare variety that get better and better with age.


PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

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Your body is as unique as you are. That is why Ergosleep® offers a personalised bed solution in line with your personal SLEEP DNA ®. So that your slatted base or box spring is perfectly attuned to your sleeping proole, for a healthy night’s rest. Already over 450.000 people know their SLEEP DNA ®. What are you waiting for to discover your SLEEP DNA ®? www.ergosleep.com


TRENDSPOTTING

winter wonderland A frosty winter can be fantastic - if you have the right products at your side. Here is a small selection of things we think are perfect to keep you warm during the long winter months.

2.

1.

3.

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4.


TRENDSPOTTING

Houdini. 1. Leeward Jacket is a waterproof and breathable shell jacket sturdy enough for skiing in the winter. www.houdinisportswear.com Georg Jensen Damask 2. Exclusive TRIPP plaid made from the softest lambwool. www.georgjensen-damask.com Shepherd 3. Annie – a pair of soft and comfortable ladies sheepskin slippers. shop.shepherdofsweden.se Lundhags 4. Gero 35 WP is a waterproof backpack with welded seams and a roll-top opening. A great choice for Nordic Skating. www.lundhags.se Snowlife 5. Heat GTX Mitten – gloves with in-built rechargeable battery to produce heat keeping your hands warm. www.snowlife.ch/en Glacial 6. Glacial bottle, keeps your beverage hot for 12 hours or cold for 24 hours. www.glacialbottle.com

5.

Lundhags 7. T-Skate NNN BC – All-round skate with innovative pivot hinged fastening of the blade. Recyclable and made from recycled materials. www.lundhags.se Tomorrowland Winter 8. Magic in the French Alps. 9-16 March 2019, Alpe d’Huez – France. www.tomorrowland.com

6.

7.

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

19:1 DESIGN COLLECTION

CREATIVE LABELS AND BRANDING On the following pages, we present our latest design collections. Our aim is to provide our customers with inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labels and branding to a new level. We are always on the lookout for new materials and production techniques, whilst continuing to finetune the interaction between design, production and logistics. In this issue we asked photographer Olof Händén together with the stylist Andrea Albertyn, to interpret one of our latest collections, ’WHIM’.

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Cap Cotton On Jacket Afraid Of Mice Top & pants Country Road Socks Woolworths Shoes Edgars


Daniela Glasses The Fix Jacket Second Time Around Costume Afraid of Mice Socks Factorie Shoes Zara

Noah Jacket Edgars Shorts Edgars


Hat Lacoste Sweater Second Time Around Dungarees Afraid Of Mice Socks Factorie Shoes Converse


Daniela Jacket Adidas Costume Afraid Of Mice Shorts Afraid of Mice Socks Factorie

Noah Hat Lacoste Sweater Second Time Around Dungarees Afraid Of Mice Socks Factorie Shoes Converse


Jacket Levi´s T-shirt Woolworths Shorts Factorie Socks Factorie Shoes Converse


Daniela Jacket Second Time Around T-shirt Zara Shorts The Fix

Noah Jacket Levi´s T-shirt Woolworths Shorts Factorie Socks Factorie Shoes Converse


Jacket Levi´s T-shirt Woolworths Shorts Factorie Socks Factorie Shoes Converse


Daniela Glasses YDE T-shirt The Fix

Noah Glasses YDE T-shirt Edgars


DESIGN COLLECTIONS

WHIM - When life is smiling at you. The streets of New York are truly the place for an urban philosophy. Opportunities are around every corner and bravery rules. Here on the concrete streets and in the bustle of the subway, people come and go. Some journeys are more long-lasting than others but all with a certain impact with those who made them.

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Jacket Edgars Shorts Edgars Photo Olof HändÊn Styling Andrea Albertyn Hair/ Make up Richard Wilkinson Model Daniela Molatudi Noah Curko - Ice Models


DESIGN COLLECTIONS

Denim, the staple in every wardrobe. From sturdy workwear to high-end fashion. Both denim fabric and more specifically jeans have truly made a journey worthy to write about. The association with humble or urban roots will always be there, even if now denim has evolved and extended it’s reach to a luxury market. Urban Blue – the stuff of legend.

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

The word BREKKU derives from the Faroese Á Brekku: The Hill.The brand’s clothes are inspired by, and for strong, feminine, elegant women. Women on top of the Hill in life, women who know how hard it is to get to the top of the Hill, while still staying true to themselves and femininity!

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

New Foundry. An industrial feel woven like a thread through every aspect. Every detail on the clothes has a purpose and a function. It is a conscious design where the wearer can handle the world around them. It all transcends to a finished product that feels modern and forward thinking but still has a nod to the past and the brand’s rich history.

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

Respekt is a highlight of our work to develop products with lower e ­ nvironmental impact. It shows the ongoing process to a more s­ ustainable offer, from design to delivery. The RESPEKT concept features, ­environmental finishings and various materials such as bamboo, vegetable tanned leather and FSC paper as well as recycled materials. All articles comply with REACH regulations or meet higher ecological standards.

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

YUKON – when skiing is your philosophy. When you throw yourself down the slopes, with adrenaline pumping, the mastery is in the details. Gloves, boots, jackets, even down to the cords and the buttons, are the items that determine if your ride will be ordinary or one that is set apart from the rest. YUKON – technological details down the slopes.

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

Eighty Twenty - contemporary homeware. Standard range - Design, form and function combine to create pieces that both catch the eye and captivate the mind. Clean lines and modern twists rule this concept. The premium edition has a more composed feel to the standard collection. Black, dark green and hints of gold are more present in this range giving a look that is bold yet stylish.

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

Velocity is a classic sportswear brand driven by technical details and a drive to succeed. This is a high performance range for high performance athletes. Carefully selected materials and functional features ensure you stay on track, push the limits and reach your goals. Velocity - raise the bar

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

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DESIGN COLLECTIONS

It’s more than just an event – it’s a movement: The PIECE festival celebrates street culture, music and art all around the world. The issue of global plastic pollution is drastically evident in front of the Polynesian coast and the PIECE movement has always been a voice for environmental protection. Therefore, the branding concept features eco-friendly materials like Tencel®, Pineapple Leaf Leather, Bamboo and recycled Papers.

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JH COLLECTION ROXBURY FUNKTIONSTRÖJA

499,-

HOOKS.SE


D E S I G N AWAR D

AT THE END OF 2018, NILORN GERMANY WON THE GERMAN DESIGN AWARD FOR A JEANS PATCH IN RECYCLED PET MATERIAL CONGRATS FROM BRANDING&DESIGN!

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D E S I G N AWAR D

It may only be a small jeans patch, but it has just been honored with a great award. The product from Nilorn’s sustainable denim concept ‘Genes’ has been awarded with the German Design Award Special Mention 2019 by the German Design Council. The patch is mainly made of recycled PET felt - combined with a small part in grained Jacron – a rather unusual material choice for branding a pair of Jeans. »Special Mention« awards are given to works with designs that feature particularly successful partial aspects or solutions – these prizes acknowledge the commitment of companies and designers. The Jury stated: ‘Not only does the felt and imitation leather both look like the real thing – they also feel astonishingly authentic to the touch.’ This prize is a big honor for Nilorn as it recognises the high design quality of Nilorn’s concept collections. EXCELLENT REPUTATION FAR BEYOND SPECIALIST CIRCLES

PRESENTED BY THE AUTHORITATIVE GERMAN BODY FOR BRANDING

The German Design Awards are presented by the German Design Council, the authoritative German body for branding and design. Its prestigious commission: to represent the world of German design. Established as a foundation in 1953 on the initiative of the German Bundestag, the German Design Council supports the international industry in consistently achieving brand value via design, making it one of the world’s leading centre’s of expertise in communication and knowledge transfer in the area of design. In addition to industry associations and institutions, the exclusive network of the foundation members includes, in particular, the owners and brand managers of numerous renowned companies. Links: https://www.german-design-award.com/ https://www.german-design-council.de

The German Design Awards, launched in 2012, are among the most prestigious design competitions worldwide and have an excellent reputation far beyond specialist circles. The competition sets the highest standards for selecting the prize winners: thanks to the unique nomination process, only those products and communication design projects that demonstrably exemplify outstanding design quality are eligible to participate. ALL WINNERS ARE SELECTED DURING A TWO-DAY JURY MEETING.

The jury for the German Design Awards 2019 is composed of design experts from industry, academia, science and design. All jury members are recognised experts in their fields.

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RECAP

BILL CASSADY

BILL CASSADY

VIZZINI

NORKA

BC 111

BC 110

VIZ 113

NOR 117

AI-IRO AI 106

RESPEKT RE 114

PURE LUXE PL 114

THE DENIM COLLECTIVE TDC 104

BEDROCK MILLS

BEDROCK MILLS

HARRY FITZROY

GABEIRA

BRM 001

BRM 002

HFI 109

GAB 116

TYSTNAD TY 110

AWARE AW 107

NOMAD NOM 110

LUCA GHINI DENIM LUG 213

ROYAL DENIM RD 4010

BIJOU BJ 108

BEACON BCN 114

CLEAR AS MUD CAM 111

BUTTON COLLECTION BY NILORN

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PANTONE 337 C 14-5714 TPG CMYK 48, 0, 34, 0


PANTONE 337 U 14-5714 TPG CMYK 53, 0, 36, 0


honest made apparel For some, we are outdoor lifestyle, for others functional fashion. We, however, prefer to live by our values: reliability, consciousness, curiosity and openness - honest apparel for real moments.

APRES SKI

waterproof winter coat for women

AUTUMN / WINTER 19 | 20

ELKLINE GmbH sales@elkline.de Phone +49(0)40 570 19 98-40 www.explore-elkline.com


SYSTEM PARTNER


INTERVIEW

MEET PETER COLLINS HE JOINED THE NILORN TEAM IN 2018 AS OUR GROUP PACKAGING MANAGER AND HIS EXPERIENCE AND KNOWLEDGE IN THE PACKAGING SECTOR MAKE HIM A GREAT ASSET TO SUPPORT OUR SALES PEOPLE AROUND THE WORLD.

I was born and raised in Manchester, the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution. Married to Maria now for 34 years I have six children (all boys) - Joseph, Dominic, Brendan, Michael, Patrick & last but not least John-Paul. I am a designer and I believe that I have experience encompassing the complete end-to-end packaging & printing process. On completing a Design Degree at Salford University, I entered the world of packaging as a designer for a large Swedish Paper company, ASSI Domain (you may now know it as Billerud Korsnäs). Here I produced both graphic and structural design for ASSI’s large manufacturing unit in Cheshire, England. ASSI manufactured packaging for a wide range of customers, varying from food stuffs, such as Kellogg’s cereal, through to engineering products, such as vehicle engine packs for Ford Europe. I was very fortunate to work for such a forward-looking and well invested company, to design packaging produced on some of the most advanced machinery available globally. I moved onto a multi-material packaging manufacturing company called Macfarlanes & progressed to the position of Group Design Manager, overseeing the development and installation of CAD for the group at four manufacturing sites across the UK. Macfarlanes were involved in the manufacture of plastics, foams, corrugated and litho laminates for the drinks, cosmetics, building and engineering industries and specialist wooden packaging for the MOD (Ministry of Defence). After gaining this experience I moved into more customer focused roles at two large manufacturers within the UK - Bowater’s (now Mondi) and David S Smith where I was the Technical Representative for the manufacturing sites and their

machine divisions. The position involved designing packaging to resolve manufacturing issues at large automated production plants, mainly in the food & drinks sector. An opportunity soon arose to move to the other side of the table – from manufacturing to retail. This was to join the N Brown Group - a large online retailer - as their Packaging Manager. The N Brown Group has been trading since 1875 and are better known as JD Williams & Co Ltd. Originally they were a Mail-Order catalogue company, which prepared them well when the internet came along as their infrastructure, warehousing, automation and delivery processes were finely tuned to take advantage of this new sales avenue. The product range was predominantly clothing based but they had a vast portfolio of other products from homeware through to pet food - all of which presented their own unique packaging requirements. The position enabled me to acquire new skills, involving: • Selection and auditing of all packaging suppliers globally. • Development and implementation of new packaging infinitives • Compliance of the Environmental Act on packaging/labelling • Procurement of all packaging/labelling for the group with a budget of 3 Million GBP. More recently I have worked as a Packaging Consultant in as diverse industries as plastic manufacturing and fast fashion e-commerce businesses.

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INTERVIEW

”I HOPE TO BOTH GROW OUR EXISTING AND GAIN NEW CUSTOMERS BY PROVING THAT WE ARE THE ‘GO-TO’ SUPPLIER FOR NEW, INNOVATIVE AND SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING.”

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INTERVIEW

WHY NILORN

Whilst working for the N Brown group I was instrumental in appointing Nilorn as the nominated supplier. The experience was very positive as the company’s values came across very early in the relationship from the salesperson on the account, John Ford, through to the caring and diligent work from design and the internal sales staff. This is a company that I am proud to be a small part of and I hope to exemplify the values that I recognised during my time at N Brown. My aim is to help build on the growth of Nilorn’s packaging business by supporting the sales people across the group with my knowledge and experience. I hope to both grow our existing and gain new customers by proving that we are the ‘go-to’ supplier for new, innovative and sustainable packaging.

FAVOURITE BAND? Without doubt my favourite musical artist would be Van Morrison. I’ve followed him for many years and he continues to produce consistently high quality music with a great deal of Celtic soul. I’ve had the good fortune to see him on a few occasions and have not been disappointed.

freedom across the world. I visited his house in India as it is now open to the public as a museum. What an incredible human being. DESCRIBE YOURSELF IN 3 WORDS Honest, conscientious and confident

BEST PLACE YOU’VE TRAVELLED TO ACROSS THE GLOBE AND WHY?

FAVOURITE FOOD – YOUR LAST MEAL ON EARTH, WHAT IS IT?

My wife and I went to New York for one of my ‘big birthday’s’ which was a real treat . New York has a kind of buzz around it which you can only find in a few cities. Add to that the iconic views of every building you have ever seen in a movie since you were young including the Chrysler Building, Guggenheim, Broadway, Court House, Empire State and of course the Statue of Liberty.

I have simple tastes here I’m afraid as Irish Stew, mashed potatoes & green vegetables would be my favourite meal. FAVOURITE QUOTE “Only two things are infinite, the Universe & Human stupidity and I’m not sure about the former”. Albert Einstein

MOST INFLUENTIAL PERSON FAMOUS OR OTHERWISE?

FAVOURITE BOOK AND WHY?

Mahatma Gandhi was an Indian activist who was the leader of the Indian independence movement against British rule. Employing non-violent civil disobedience, Gandhi led India to independence and inspired movements for civil rights and

My favourite book would have to be ‘Old Puckoon’ by Spike Milligan. It is one of the funniest insights into his life as a young boy. It is written with great clarity to put you into the situations he describes.

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www.cyberjammies.co.uk


ARTICLE

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ARTICLE

Future Fashion

– A TECHNOLOGICAL EQUATION WORDS: PATRICK HJERTÉN

We live in a time where we are presented with news and headlines that our way of life is not particularly good for either us or the planet. The intel from experts is that we need to change our ways both when it comes to production as well as how we consume. Luckily some things are already in the works to take necessary steps for the future. The key, as many times before, is technology and ingenuity.

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COLLAB IS THE KEY

FashNerd and Munich Fabric Start started a collaboration that was launched in September 2018 called Wardrobe of the Future. The mission of the collaboration is to further strengthen the presence of technology within the fashion industry. But let us start by introducing the key players of this collaboration.

arm the readers with knowledge so that they, with an open mind, can easier comprehend the ever-evolving fashion tech space. TECH TO WEAR – ON YOU, WITH YOU, IN YOU

According to Juniper Research the spending on wearable technology is estimated to reach 53 million dollars worldwide by 2019. When we think of garments and accessories linked with technology we usually conjure up images of tech geeks and fitness fanatics. That cannot amount to the sum mentioned above, can it? So, where is the rest?

FashNerd is one of the fastest growing digital magazines that write about fashion technology and wearables. It was founded in January 2015 by Muchaneta Kapfunde and Mano ten Napel and together they created a publication that is unique in that it represents more than one perspective. They felt that there was a need to start an open conversation about the merger of fashion with technology. Today FashNerd has a global following with an audience that craves and searches for vital news about the fashion business. The ones who are addicted to fashion tech, Io T and wearable tech space have an informing and educational source in FashNerd. The founders of the magazine do not seek to shape opinions but instead

It is here, even if it is not known by the great masses. One example is a t-shirt that was launched by Ralph Lauren this Fall, intended for the sport market. The t-shirt captures biometric information and lets the wearer know data like heart rate, breathing rate, steps taken and more. This could be scary for some, but fantastic for others.

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A science and design firm, The Unseen, which is based in London is working on clothes that will be able to change colour. That change is supposed to be able to be done via an app. The thought is a bit mind blowing, that you can wear a blue t-shirt in the morning, get bored with it and then change it to red.

has done the same but she made a t-shirt. In the future, we might see clothes where the energy for the battery comes from our own body heat. While we are at it, let us go totally Star Trek and talk about clothes that change shape. In 2012 Lacoste released a video where you could see clothes change colour, get slimmer or change the length of a sleeve. The technology behind it is something that is a complicated fibre science. That means that the molecular structure of the textiles is changed.

Today we can communicate digitally pretty much everywhere, but we are apparently just a moment away from the next step. Together with Levi’s, Google is in the process of launching Project Jacquard which will mean that there will be a conductive yarn woven into the material and the wearer will have touch interactivity on the actual fabric. The idea is to allow us, for instance, to order something or change the volume without picking up a mobile phone. Seamless interaction is supposedly the way of the future.

FashNerd and Munich Fabric Start are tapping into a foreseeable future with their Wardrobe of the Future, where they make wearable tech accessible to the masses. Our imagination is the only limit that can be set on what we will see in the future, when it comes to the merger of technology, design and fashion. That imagination is also the key to the sustainability that the world needs.

Tommy Hilfiger launched a jacket last year with a small portable battery and with solar panels on the back of the jacket. Pauline van Dongen from Holland

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CYRILLUS SAS - 1 Chaussée de la Muette - 75018 PARIS - capital de 6 593 400 EUR - 421022997 R.C.S Paris - TVA FR 90 421022997

10h55

L’ embouteillage


Break free from the cold. Engineered knitwear for ultimate freedom of movement. kjus.com/freelite

Profile for NILORN UK

Branding & design (Fashion Magazine) 2019 01  

Branding & design magazine is a biyearly fashion magazine produced by Nilorn Group - containing a mix of articles, interviews and a closer l...

Branding & design (Fashion Magazine) 2019 01  

Branding & design magazine is a biyearly fashion magazine produced by Nilorn Group - containing a mix of articles, interviews and a closer l...

Profile for nilorn_uk
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