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Chef's harvest table Utilize Local Produce MeMphis barbeque: Smokin' hot success
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Cover Story: The Harvest Table – Page 20 Page 6 – Memphis Barbecue a smokin’ success Page 10 – Gridiron glory returns for 1980 champs Page 16 – 40th year and GPAG still evolving Page 17-18 – Niagara Artists part of Art of 40 Page 26 – Fall fishing on Lake Ontario
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One thing about food: everyone needs it. Whether you are a bonafide meat maniac or a hardcore vegan, not a person on earth does not have a favourite dish, a favourite way of preparing something, and that meal which almost certainly reminds them of childhood, comfort and warmth. It is harvest time here in Niagara and it is a great time of year for anyone who invests their time and energy into making their own food. Some do it from scratch, others may use an accessory here or there to save a little time. For those folks, and for those who rarely see the kitchen, with what the residents of this area have at their collective doorsteps we thought we could offer some ideas to give it a try. Chef Jan-Willem Stulp has taken some extra time to create some recipes for a unique, not-overly-complicated Thanksgiving-style meal, but bits and pieces of it can be simplified to be just a very nice dinner for company, a family gathering or a romantic dinner for two. He always puts a great deal of thought and effort into what he presents in the pages of ClubWest and you will see that attention to detail is evident in our Fall edition to be sure. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, and getting your base cooking materials at the grocery store is not enough for you – you want your food to be even fresher – you may want to take the advice of Brent Bochek, who offers some fishing tips and locales to catch your own dinner. Brent is an avid fisherman whose passion for the hobby is clear. His knowledge of the local fishing scene is also second to none. He too offers an idea on how to prepare what you catch...his version of stream-to-table as opposed to the popular gate-to-table theme. Speaking about passion....what more can be said about Steve and Lori Popp at Memphis Fire Barbecue Co. Their combined passion for treating people right and putting out great fromscratch food has been a recipe for success. They provide some secrets and tips for smoking meats at home. Without a doubt, this time of year is our opportunity to appreciate all we have right here in Niagara West. Fruit and produce to be sure, but also locally raised chicken, meat and fish. Whether you cure meats or can tomatoes, you can use local freshness to prepare foods for those nasty, cold winter days. With this edition also spanning Thanksgiving, one can reflect on the whole year. It is easy to see something in every season why there are great reasons to give thanks we live where we do. Publisher, ClubWest Magazine Mike Williscraft
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PASSIONS Food
Lori and Steve Popp, owners of Memphis Fire Barbecue Company. Williscraft - Photo
You’re not in Kansas anymore... this barbecue is from Winona By Mike Williscraft In business, just as in life, sometimes the best deal you make is the one which does not come to fruition. Such was the case for Lori and Steve Popp, owners of the highly successful Memphis Fire Barbecue Company in Winona. It was in 2008 when the duo had decided, after years in different capacities in the restaurant industry, to try their hand at operating a food truck/catering
6 clubwest.ca | September/October 2015
business. “We had a BBQ catering trailer build set up with a U.S. company that fell through. We searched for a Canadian company to do the same thing but the closest we could come on price was three times the original cost. We just could not afford that,” said Steve. “We had been driving by this spot for 18 months so we thought, ‘why not give this place a try?’.” Their theory, recalls Lori, “We would
rather open the door for one person, rather than wait for a phone call to serve 100.” While that circumstance led them to their Hwy. 8 location just west of Lewis Road, their venture into the world of southern barbecue started about a decade earlier. The first turn of fate came while Steve was working at Mon Bijou, a fine dining restaurant in Burlington.
PASSIONS Food Continued from Page 6
“I just happened to pick up a copy of Saveur Magazine and there was an article about Kansas City style barbecue. I was this dopey Canadian kid. I thought grilling was barbecue. It was so captivating. I still have it,” noted Steve. That was the planting of the seed. That seed took another step in its development opted to alter his career path and get into teaching in 2000. In 2002, he sought to supplement his income and he developed Jet Set Spice Company, which included his famed Memphis Fire dry rub. Along the way, he met Lori. They worked in the same building for years and were good friends, eventually beginning to date after friends told them countless times, “You guys would be perfect for each other”. Teamed up and a direction chosen, the pair moved into their Memphis business location in December 2009. After three month of renovation, the opened with a pretty simple business philosophy. “We won’t compromise the quality of our food. If it is not perfect, we won’t serve it,” said Lori. Now, that all sounds fine and dandy and, in hindsight, it served them very well, but it was not an easy path to take for a new business. “There simply is no way to prepare yourself for not having any customers,” recalled Steve of the early days. “There were days we served four tables. It was scary. Now, when we say it is slow, we see it as an opportunity to catch up
Chef Steve applies the nectar of the gods, aka barbecue sauce, to ribs in the Memphis smoker. Williscraft - Photo on things. Back then, slow was just plain agonizing.” Lori agreed.
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PASSIONS Food Continued from Page 7
“Now the doubts and concerns are not gone, we just think of them less often. We don’t take anything for granted.” Their food preparation process is one of the keys to their success. With their Pork Shoulders for Pulled Pork, they keep the skin on “because it gives us another layer to apply the Memphis Fire dry rub. Slice under the layer of skin and apply the rub over all the surface and on top of the skin, as well,” said Lori. “Then, make it snow. I mean season liberally with lots of salt. Then it would be at least 24 hours in the smoker. It could be up to 36 hours depending on the size.” And that cut is kept whole until minutes before it is prepared to arrive at the customers’ table. “That is important. We don’t pre-pull at all. That only allows the meat to dry out. We will pull about 1.5-3 lbs at a time depending on how busy we are,” noted Steve. Another important point to note when choosing your cut of beef is go for a flavourful cut, which means larger fattier cuts from aged beef. “We generate tenderness by our process so we don’t need the AAA Angus beef so we can go for a mature cut that has more surface fat,” said Steve. “We’ll rub that with our dry rub, then add black pepper and coriander as the coriander has that bit of a lemony flare to it.” Their attention to detail with the
rant: they can maintain a high-quality standard and do what needs to be done for customers even though it may cost a little more. “We are not a fast food place. When convenience food became really popular in the 80s that was when most people forgot how to cook,” said Steve, who noted he always wanted his place to be the antithesis of the big box restaurants. But to have success in an independent restaurant model, that means long hours food they prepare certainly has paid off. and hard work. With success comes different pressures, “Not a day goes by when we’re not however. thinking about the place. Whether it is “There is a tradition with barbecue in the middle of the night, driving the places in the deep south that when they kids to school or when we’re on vacaare sold out, they are sold out. That’s it. tion,” said Lori, adding that it is a family They go home.” said Steve. business. “We’re in Ontario and that just won’t “When you can put everything into work here. People expect you will have your vision, your passion is what comes what you offer when they show up. We are not here to disappoint people and we out. We’ve been lucky. Having a business can ruin some families. With us, it has have to have top quality, too.” brought us closer together because we all And even when everything is ready, enjoy it.” there is still a tinkering with how their SMOKING SECRETS processes work, all with an eye to providWhile sleep deprivation has contining the best quality as quickly as possible ued to drive the business owners to new without compromising standards. heights so, too, has an artists’ touch “We tried a six-week experiment with when it comes to smoking meats pushed an electric slicer for the brisket. It just Memphis itself. didn’t work out. From Day 1 we have “Bigger&isDANCE better whenBOUTIQUE it comes to always had hand-sliced brisket and thatSKATING is Everything for the Skater smokers. It’s like those five-gallon fish what our customers expect,” said Steve. tanks. If you get one of them you notice “The slicer just could not do it, it everything. You have to clean it all the would just crumble. We could not let 4282 Mountainview Rd. S., Beamsville time. If there is one little issue it affects that experiment continue.” 905-563-8585 the whole tank,” noted Steve. And it is those kinds of choices why www.mountainviewcycle.ca the pair love owning their own restau-
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PASSIONS Food Continued from Page 8 “Get the 120-gallon tank. There is less maintenance. You don’t have to clean it every day and water will be more consistent. Same with smokers. You get more consistency out of the bigger units.” No matter what the size of smoker you opt for, the key ingredients you need to pay attention to are time and patience, he added, noting another factor is temperatures are harder to main consistently in smaller units. “Temperature is massive. We keep ours at 170 degrees. The smaller units are usually around 215-225. The lower the temp the better,” he said. Aside from the temperature, maintaining good smoke is important, too. “If smoke is white, it’s alright,” said Steve, referring to having just the right amount of wood stoking the smoker. Too much wood turns the smoke black,which coats the meats and does give you the flavour for which you are looking. With their work ethic, attention to detail and quality control, there is nothing left to doubt as to why the Popps have been successful. And what does that success translate into in terms of how much they serve in a given week? How about 1,100 lbs of potatoes in a week, with 600 lbs going out the door on a Saturday. “We use 100 L of milk per week to make our mac and cheese’s bechamel sauce,” Lori pointed out, noting she did not want to think about how much cheese they use. “It’s a lot.” While their goal initially was to do what they love and have a business that survives, that goal has been adjusted slightly in recent years. “We haven’t changed. We strive to keep up with the demands of the business every day, keep quality high, and ensure things don’t change,” said Steve. “We want to keep the customers as happy as when they first came in the door and that is not easy when business
Lori and Steve Popp show a couple of beef briskets ready to head into the smoker. Williscraft - Photo has increased by 800 per cent.” “We want out customers to feel like this is their home: that comfortable,” added Lori.
“Serve the best food possible, treat staff like family and be the opposite of fast food.” September/October 2015 | clubwest.ca
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THEIR STORY 1980 Gridiron Champs
1980 All-Ontario Midget Football Champions ~ Grimsby Grizzlies Back Row, from left; Coach John Irwin, Mike Woods, Greg Smith, Brian Hutchings, Pete Ververgaert, Henry Stienstra, Coach Ed Wright, Al Corbett. Second From Back: John Simpson, Scott Campbell, Dave Jones, Terry O’Brien, Todd Eagles, Russ Hutchings, Ron Egger. Third Row From Back: Mark Whetton, Jim McPherson, Rick Murray, Gary Green, Mike Harvey, Rich Barich, Huey Boekestyn, the late Don Smith. Fourth Row From Back: Coach Jim O’Brien, Bill Turner, Brian King, Dan Murray, Mike Todd, Steve Wright, Scott Bernhart, Scott Berry. Front Row: Coach Mary Lapointe, Lane Clark, Lori Rustenburg, Robin Mulder, Lisa Skradski, Barb Lymburner, Terri Diotte, George Mulder. Missing from the photo were Chris Nunziato and trainer Dave Torrence, Cheerleaders Chris VanBuuren and Jane Powell as well as statistician Brian Toner and Chris Omiecinski. Toughness, discipline, work ethic and The championship squad will renew relishing the role of an underdog: acquaintances for a 35th reunion being held Sept. 12 at Teddy’s Food, those were just a few of the life lessons learned by members of the Fun & Spirits starting at 7 p.m. 1980 Grimsby Grizzlies All-Ontario What turned it all around for the Football Championship team. small but talented group? “Coach Ed Wright. He was a great “It was kind of amazing when you coach. He reinvented our office and look back at it,” said Brian Hutchings, who played offensive and defen- defence halfway through the season,” sive tackle on the squad. said Rich Barich, who played fullback and guard. “We were pretty lucky. Our group of guys always had a pretty good “Coach Wright changed the defence totally and put in an H formation on team. We lost the championship at the old CNE Stadium the year before offence, After that, we could not be 3-2, a weird score, I know. But in stopped.” Winning had come easy to those on 1980, we had our worst regular seaBy Mike Williscraft son. We lost three games.”
Reliving gridiron glory 10 clubwest.ca | September/October 2015
THEIR STORY 1980 Gridiron Champs Continued from Page 10 the team. “We never lost, so when that third loss came, we were in shock,” added Hutchings, who is now vice-president, finance and administration at Brock University and enjoyed a five-year Canadian Football League career. “In sports, as in life, you adjust and just keep going,” And the coach staff instilled this thinking and ethic in the players over years in the Grimsby football system, which included houseleague up to Pee Wee and travel teams up to Midget. “The coaches were old school. It was military style,” said Mike Woods, now a Staff Sergeant with Niagara Regional Police and a cornerback on the 1980 team. So what brought the team together and gave them the ability to adapt and improve in adverse conditions? Pain. “The drills were legendary. The cage, everyone will remember the cage,” said Hutchings. “It was a drill designed to ‘encourage’ you to stay low. Two guys would be in the cage and go right at each other. Whoever was higher, their head would pop up and get whacked by a metal bar. You could never do that kind of thing today, but it sure worked for us.” And if that was not encouragement enough to follow the coach’s direction to a T, “the hill” awaited those who dared to fall short of expectations. ‘“We practised at both GSS (Grimsby Secondary School) and Nelles (Public School) fields. They both had a hill. For conditioning, or if we got in trouble, we had to run the hill.” “And,” noted Hutchings. “if that wasn’t enough, they would say, ‘Now put someone on your back and do it again’. Oh ya, it was tough!” Today, the trio and their teammates all see things with the benefit of 20/20 hindsight and realize what Coach Wright and his team were doing.
“They were incredible coaches. Their dedication was second to none,” said Barich. “We practised from 6-8 p.m. every night and if we had a game in Ottawa we would be gone for the whole weekend. Our coaches gave up all their time for us and they wanted to see the same commitment from us.” And the reason for that, said Barich, was because the staff knew what each player
had to offer and they saw it as their job to extract that effort and talent. “They knew we had more in us than we thought. They knew it was there. They just had to show us. It was about repetition and getting us to do things on the field automatically, without thinking,” said Barich, who is now a senior business manager with an electrical control panel company. “I still use the lessons learned every
Rich Barich, left, and reunion chairman Henry Stienstra. September/October 2015 | clubwest.ca
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THEIR STORY 1980 Gridiron Champs
(L to R) Mike Woods, Rich Barich and Brian Hutchings hold a Grimsby collector’s item, a rare football helmet from back in the day when Grizzlies were the football team. Today, Grimsby Basketball Association uses that handle. Williscraft - Photo
Continued from Page 11 day,” said Barich. And like the Oakland Raiders of the same era, the Grizzlies have more than their share of charactoers. “To this day, I would say Greg Smith is the roughest guy I ever met,” said Hutchings. “You could fee his passion for the game in every huddle: he wanted to win so badly.” And if you were wondering what happened in the championship game played at Ivor Wynne Stadium: “It was pretty intimidating. We were playing the East York Steelers and they were decked out in these Pittsburgh Steelers replica uniforms and all. They had a big team. They had already beaten us,” recalled Hutchings. But that was the old Grizzlies: the pre-
12 clubwest.ca | September/October 2015
revamp Grizzlies, and the Steelers had not gotten a look at what was under the hood of this new bunch. “Going in, it was like the movie The Longest Yard. We didn’t even have the right shoes for the turf at Ivor Wynne. The Ti-Cats sent us a box of their old shoes. That meant a lot because we had nothing,” said Hutchings. “That really pumped up the guys, too, because we were treated like country hicks. The only way we got respect was by winning and playing hard,” said Barich. In the end, “We dominated,” said Hutchings. “It was 18-3 at the half and a 24-9 final. They didn’t get a touchdown till there was 35 seconds left in the game,: “It was a life-changing moment ... and the party after at the Wright’s house, it was a gong show,” he added with a grin.
Next week, no doubt, these stories which were printable will be mixed with a host of others that are not, add in a cold pop or two and the backs will be faster, the linemen will be more powerful and the coaches will be smarter. And that is what reliving the glory days is all about. “It was a great time. Being on the travel football teams was the equivalent of making the Peach Kings. You saw our guys wearing their green jackets around town and it meant something...and the chicks seemed to dig it, too,” smiled Hutchings. The festivities at Teddy’s get underway at 7 p.m. and there is a rumour about some golf getting the ball rolling in the afternoon. Everyone is welcome to attend including coaches, players, parents and cheerleaders from the Grizzlies organization.
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PASSIONS
From donated paint to climate-controlled comfort, Grimsby Public Art Gallery has come a long way, baby! By Mike Williscraft An empty space slated for use as a storage reached it 40th anniversary in 2015. Grimsby Public Art Gallery, which started out with cement floors and cinder block walls in the basement of the Carnegie Building in 1975, has seen great change in the span of its life. “It was very much a community place when it started out,” said Lyndsay Dobson, whose father Bill Poole was the driving force behind the development of the gallery. “There was always something going. The youth were very much involved. There were art classes, activities, pumpkin carving in the fall, you name it.” And that grassroots type of feel was West Lincoln Fire Department systemic of its origins. Capt. Gary Ricker, right, One could not let the Mr.helped Rogers aprecruit current Fire Chief Dennis pearance, sweater vest and all, fool you, Fisher, from Bill Pooleleft. wasRicker a manretired on a mission. the department after 41 years “He thought everyone should of have service. Williscraft Photo art and access to it. That is why he liked prints so much. They could be reproduced with access for all,” said Lyndsay of her dad, who was also involved in Wayzgoose and was an initial organizer of Grimsby’s Festival of Art in 1968. “In 1975, he saw his opportunity and he did everything to make it happen. It was not just him though, Gordon Hadler was another who helped a lot and there were others. They managed to get everything donated.” Gordon and Bill were both members
16 clubwest.ca | September/October 2015
Ted Fullerton (left), Bill Poole and Murray Bowman (right) at opening of Gallery 25, an exhibition celebrating the gallery’s 25th anniversary in Spring 2000
of the library board which oversaw the gallery’s affairs at the start. In 1999, the gallery became a separate entity under the Town of Grimsby administration and was part of the massive rebuild of the gallery and library in 2004. Lyndsay recalls the floors were painted “ox blood red” and walls a cream colour. Leon Betzner, who operated Home Hardware at the time, donated curtain tracking and chain link. “This was how the art was hung at the start, so they could be moved around easily,” noted Lyndsay. So while Bill, who died in 2001, helped get the infrastructure of the gallery itself underway, a major donation by his mother Ethel gave the facility’s permanent collection a boost. “My grandmother, when she passed away, had quite a large collection of art. She donated all of it to the gallery,” noted Lyndsay, adding her grandmother was among those who frequented Grimsby
Beach via ferry rides from Toronto, eventually settling in a home on the escarpment. “There were a lot of early 1900s landscapes.” From an empty basement to a state-ofthe-art facility, the gallery has changed a great deal in its first 40 years. “It was so grassroots at the start. Artists used to bring in goats and calves and the kids would draw them as part of the classes. The floors were cement so you could do that because you didn’t have to worry about carpeting,” Lyndsay laughed. “It was run more the way the old co-op galleries were run at that time: with a real community feel, much less institutional. But, to get the travelling exhibits and things like that, they had to improve the design and format. Dad was better at starting things, then handing them off to others to run.” Grimsby is a better place because he helped start Grimsby Public Art Gallery.
Arts PASSIONS
Jan Yates with the 40 anniversary logo over her shoulder. Her contribution will be an interactive piece symbolizing 40 “aha” moments at GPAG.
Aha! GPAG turns 40 Grimsby artist Jan Yates will create her installation saluting Grimsby Public Art Gallery’s 40th anniversary around 40 “aha” moments of creativity at the facility. Yates was one of two Niagara-based artists to create original works as part of The Art of 40, an exhibit at GPAG which will have its grand opening Friday, Sept. 27 from 7-9 p.m., but has been open to the public as of Sept. 1. It remains open until Oct. 31. A key focus to Yates’ artwork over the years is her connection to nature. To enhance that, she takes the opportunity to work on site. “The process of creating on site is integral to Yates, cultivating an intimate dialogue with the earth’s growth, decay and renewal,” said Yates.
“These outdoor encounters are the catalysts for in-studio exploration, evolving into a cyclical body of work mapping a quest for preservation, while contemplating the consequence of change.” In her career, Yates has done it all: taught, won awards, earned grants, been awarded residencies and been elected as a member of the Society of Canadian Artists. “Art is my form of expression, my language. I have no choice, it is the way I was born,” said Yates, who took a break from research combing through the gallery’s permanent collection for tidbits to use in her 40th anniversary installation. Her work will have an interactive component to allow gallery visitors to create a collage with prints of archived material from the past 40 years of gallery
exhibitions. The anniversary installation is a bit of a break from Yates’ regular efforts. Typically, one could find her working amongst the trees of the escarpment. “Above all else, the land informs the development of my work. For over a decade I’ve made paintings and constructions directly on rural land near my home on the Niagara Escarpment,” said Yates. For those taking the time to attend the Art of 40 exhibit, it will be accompanied by a commemorative catalogue and DVD which reflects on the history of the Gallery, its relationship with regional artists, and all of the creative energy that it engenders for residents of the Niagara Region. September/October 2015 | clubwest.ca
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Arts PASSIONS
GPAG alum comes home for Art of 40 Alisa Cunnington’s ability to create through touch and sight will allow her to go home again, home to Grimsby Public Art Gallery. Cunnington, who worked at GPAG for five years, was one of two Niagarabased artists to create original works as part of The Art of 40, an exhibit at GPAG which will have its grand opening Friday, Sept. 27 from 7-9 p.m., but has been open to the public as of Sept. 1. It remains open until Oct. 31. “This particular project was important to me because I worked at the Grimsby Public Art Gallery for five years and I feel quite connected to the space and art community,” said Cunnington. “I wanted to use my current focus on map making as a way to connect to the stories of the art and artists that I remembered working with so fondly. It seemed like an appropriate way to celebrate the Alisa continues her work on the amazing work and creativity that the gal40th annniversary installaion, an lery supports and engages.” outdoor map made of recycled Her installation for The Art of 40 materials. exhibition will physically map and chart, as well as digitally connect, the stories ways for me to say what I can’t seem to of GPAG and give them roots to places For Cunnington, who took a hiatus do through language,” said Cunnington. both real and virtual. from art production to pursue an MA in “I work best when I am bringing toHer work will be an outdoor map pop culture, her skills have evolved from gether a variety of things – obmade of recycled materials. being a collector, of sorts, to someone jects, materials. The interaction who develops “projects that create deThat type of exhibit is in of materials and construction keeping with what draws fined moments or spaces or objects.” – solving creative problems – her to artistic expression in “I still make books, quilts, slate drawgives me great satisfaction. I find ings or collages and those have become the first place. myself wanting to express in a “I am a maker of things, more technical, but I am more interested in way that can make connections I understand the world making art that does not necessarily have an for people that they would have existence beyond a project’s parameters. I through touch and sight never seen otherwise. Perhaps and rely most heavily on guess I am still making objects, but I am also it is a way of sharing the broad those senses as both input interested in creating spaces and projects and unusal connections that I ALISA and output conduits. that don’t necessarily exist past their imCUNNINGTON make in my head.” Making and creating are mediate presentation.”
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From Harvest to Thanksgiving: A natural progression
By Executive Chef JW Stulp ‘Thanksgiving’ in Canada has different meanings, largely due to our diverse cultural make-up, as well as the wildly fluctuating landscape. When looking at a ‘Temperature-Zone’ Map, it becomes readily apparent that there are also significant differences in climate. Some of these climate differences, (think of tinder-dry forests, as well as catastrophic flooding, to mention some extremes) are liabilities, but others (rain
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forests and balmy summers) are greatly treasured. In Southern Ontario, and specifically the Golden Horseshoe, regional features in Geology and the proximity of the Great Lakes have created numerous ‘Micro Climates’. These small, often temperate zones can foster rather exotic crops, such as cactus pears and persimmons, and (thankfully!) on a much larger scale, the fruit Niagara is known for peaches, apricots, and
cherries. And, recently, Vinifera vines have been prolifically grown, causing an exponential increase in wineries, with their distinct wines and spirits. The idyllic scene is not just all pleasure, though. A quick look at local orchards and vineyards, as well as berry patches and asparagus beds, will bring the sobering truth that crop failure is very real. Many of our suppliers have been shortcropped due to various weather ‘events’
Chef In Residence CUISINE Continued From Page 20 as they are known; anything from late frost, hail, drought or this past winter’s harsh, perpetuated cold, wreaks havoc on the crops grown in Niagara, crops we quickly take for granted. And yet, regardless of the weather, every season brings an abundance of wondrous proportion to our communities. Of course, this profusion of deliciousness, from the first running of the Maple Syrup to the last picking of icewine leaves us in a most enviable position: it is not called the Golden Horseshoe for nothing! Our ancestors, some of whose descendants still run and manage the farms they planted, learned to ‘put up’ the harvest, to allow them to live off it through the winter. (I don’t go back that far, but I have it on good authority that winters were, in fact, harder ‘back then’.) What they could do with their limited resources is something we cannot fathom: jams and jellies, pickling of every kind,
“What they could do with their limited resources is something we cannot fathom,” Chef JW Stulp dried and cured meats, dried and dehydrated fruits and vegetables, mustards, preserves, the beautiful rumpot, cured nuts of many varieties, and apple butter. When you come and visit us at the Grand Oak, you’ll see that many of these delicacies are still being made, artisan-style, and sold in our store. What we owe our ancestors is a consistent debt of gratitude; through courage, hard work and pluck, they pioneered
many techniques that are now unthinkable to live without; yet they are luxuries for us, but were necessities for them. Through the blessings of modern refrigeration, we have access to much of what, for them, was only available locally and in-season; fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy, meats and seafood. However, in the process of processing the foods they needed to preserve, they have created classic meals and beautiful traditions with the simple and honest recipes that endure today. This autumn, as you enjoy warm cider, toasted chestnuts and pumpkin tarts, reflect a minute on the gifts we have received from those before us: the delicious wealth of produce, the traditional meal celebrations, and the richness of this land. It makes Thanksgiving an apt and much more meaningful word. (Chef Stulp co-owns, along with his wife Jane, Grand Oak Culinary Market inVineland.)
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Chef In Residence CUISINE
Chicken Confit Salad Traditionally done with fatty poultry, such as duck or goose, Chicken Confit is equally delicious, and a lot simpler to procure. INGREDIENTS • 4 Chicken legs, bone-in (plus extra chicken fat, ask your butcher) • 1 Cup dark sugar (turbinado is especially nice) • ¾ Cup coarse salt • Oil (unflavoured, ie canola, vegetable, sunflower) • Fresh thyme • Fresh ground pepper • Lemon Zest DIRECTIONS Mix the dry ingredients together in a bowl, then pack the chicken legs in a small container, layering the cure all around it. Let sit overnight, in the fridge (8-10 hrs). In the morning, rinse, and pat dry. In a deep, small sauce pan, put all the chicken fat, and enough oil to have about
2-3 cups in total. Slowly heat this, and render all the chicken fat down. Remove any meaty bits once they start to fry. Carefully place the legs in this simmering fat, and lower the temperature to maintain a gentle simmer. (Alternatively you could do this in the oven, but it takes longer, and is more tedious to check.)
Your chicken legs will slowly tenderize in the fat. Periodically check, they should be completely tender throughout. Depending on the size of the legs, it will take between 45 minutes to 1.5 hours. Once they are done, they will be golden brown, and absolutely delicious, served boneless, hot or cold, over a fall salad.
SEPTEMBER • Last chance for nosh on the Veranda at Featherstone Winery, 3678 Victoria Avenue, Vineland. Friday to Monday, Sept. 4-7. As harvest approaches and cooler weather is in the offing, we box up the cutlery, put away the tables and chairs and turn our thoughts from sunny repasts on the veranda to the ripening grapes, booking harvest crews, and making wine. The hours all weekend are 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The veranda then closes out the 2015 season at 4 p.m., at the end of the Labour Day weekend. (905) 562-1949 • Tipsy Cupcakes at DiProfio Winery Sept. 13. The worlds of baking and wine have collided. Reserve your tickets for an evening with tipsy cupcakes! Register in advance for a two-hour class where you will learn how to decorate beautiful cupcakes, where the hidden gem, of course, is the wine ganoche in the center.Tickets for
this event are $35 and are limited! Your ticket includes: a glass of wine, a variety of tapas, six beautifully decorated cupcakes (wine infused and decorated by you) & boxes for you to take them home in, as well, and the recipe for the ganache. • The Harvest Feast at Creekside - Sept. 13th (6:30 p.m. Start) We salute the Harvest gods, with a bounty of amazing local produce, wine, and of course, beast. Full menu coming soon. Tickets are $60 pp and includes a sparkling cocktail. Additional paired wine flights or wine by the glass or bottle will be available. To book through the winery contact us at bbazylewski@creeksidewine.com by calling 905.562.0035 Ext 230. 2170 Fourth Ave Jordan. • Grimsby Festival of Art 2015 Sept. 12-13, 2015 at Blessed Trinity Catholic Secondary School - CANCELLED • Grimsby Authors Series at Casablanca
Winery inn at 4 Windward Drive in Grimsby. Mon., Sept. 14th at 7 p.m. in Grand Ballroom (Second Floor) http:// www.grimsby.ca/Author-Series/authorsand-events.html • Good Girth Supper Club presents Wine World Fare Sept. 19th at 5:308:30 p.m. Winemaker’s Dinner at 4556 Lincoln Avenue, Beamsville. This Good Girth dinner will be inspired by the specialties of regional wine countries around the world. There is an abundance of deliciousness in this global $45 Good Girth menu. Cheers! 905-563-6333 • Annual Fallstock at Calamus Winery Sept. 19 at 3100 Glen Rd, Jordan Station. Featuring live music (GinTonic & Prince Brothers), food (prepared by Danielle Murray) and of course wine (by Calamus!). There is no entry fee for the event, however drink and food tickets are
For Fall Fun, Go West
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Chef In Residence CUISINE
Mustard Quick Pickles An important way of preserving onions and cucumbers in the absence of refrigeration…..And delicious to boot! INGREDIENTS • 3 English cukes • 2 White onions • 2 Tbsp coarse salt • 1 Cup white vinegar • 1-1/2 Cup sugar • 1 Tsp Grainy dijon mustard • 1/2 Tsp powdered ginger • Pinch turmeric DIRECTIONS Coarsely Chop, and Salt the Cucumbers and Onions, and leave to drain for 4-6 hours. Rinse. Combine the remaining ingredients in a thick-bottomed pot, and bring to a simmer.
Add the rinsed cucumbers and onions, and return to a boil.
Can into sterile jars, or store in the fridge.
For Fall Fun, Go West Continued From Page 22 available for purchase. The event runs from noon to 5 p.m. and everyone is welcome, there is no age minimum. (905) 562-9303 • English Afternoon Tea - Sept. 20 at Aure Winery. Tea is at 2:30 p.m. sharp with finger sandwiches, sweets, scones and cream, with Teas imported from England all fit for the Queen! $20.00 plus HST. Please phone for reservations 905-563-7256. • Angels Gate Boil on the Bench! Saturday, Sept. 19 at 6:30 p.m. Welcome with sparkling wine and Dinner 7 p.m. It’s a New England Seafood Boil, done Beamsville style! $50 + HST per person. Includes glass of sparkling upon arrival and two glasses with dinner. 4260 Mountainview Road. Reservations: 905-563-3942 • Calamus Winery 10th Annual Fallstock Sept 19 noon-5 p.m. Harvest Party! Reserve Saturday Sept. 19th noon to 5
p.m. Free live music. No entry charge. 3100 Glen Road, Jordan, ON L0R 1S0, Phone: 905-562-9303 • Stargazing Night at Calamus Winery 3100 Glen Rd, Jordan Station, ON L0R 1S0. Sept. 27th, shortly after 9p.m. The winery houses a 16-inch-deep space telescope which has been used to look at the moon, Venus, Jupiter and its moons, and Saturn and its rings. Guests are welcome to bring a picnic to enjoy on our upper deck, which showcases a beautiful sunset, before the viewing. There is no cost for this event, but we do encourage guests to bring a donation for the food bank. (weather permitting) (905) 562-9303 • Pick Stomp and Taste at Flatrock Winery Sept 19-10-26-27 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Join Ed and the Flatrock crew and stomp your way through our 2015 vintage. Hand pick grapes from our 80 acres vineyard and then jump into a bar-
rel and stomp around. Feel the juice of premium grapes beginning the magical transformation into some of the world’s finest wine between your toes. Space is limited and reservations are required. 2727 Seventh Avenue Jordan, ON L0R 1S0 905.562.8994 OCTOBER Pioneer Day Oct 3 held on the grounds of The Jordan Museum, 3800 Main Street Jordan Village, will include heritage arts, craft demonstrations, foods, children’s activities, and much more! 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. $15/family, $5/Adults, $4/Seniors & Children until 10 years. • Balls Falls Annual Thanksgiving Festival Oct. 9 -12. A long-standing favorite tradition, this Balls Falls annual festival is a must visit! In addition to the arts and crafts, you can enjoy the beauty of this 19th Century hamlet, set amid the majestic Niagara Escarpment and Twenty Valley September/October 2015 | clubwest.ca
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Chef In Residence CUISINE
Pumpkin Apple-Butter Tartlet (makes 6) INGREDIENTS • ¼ Cup pumpkin puree • ¼ Cup sugar • ¼ Cup milk • 1 Egg • 1Tsp pumpkin spice (clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger) • 2 Tbsp apple butter • 6 Tartshells • 1 Apple, peeled, cored and sliced. DIRECTIONS Pre-bake the tartshells, and gently roast the apple slices (same oven, and time). Combine all ingredients (except, of course, the tartshells and the roasted apple) and blend until smooth and airy. Divide over tart shells, and bake at 375F. 15-20 minutes. Artfully arrange the apple slices to form roses on top of the filling.
You could finish this with more apple butter….Awesome! To contact Chef Jan, email:
chefjan@goculinary.ca Find us online at www.goculinary.ca, or call 289-567-0487
For Fall Fun, Go West Continued From Page 23 eco-system. Visit www.ballsfalls.ca for more information. • Apple-Lee Fun Weekends Sept. 12th, 19th, 26th, Oct. 3 Live Music, Train Rides, WineTastings, Pick~Your~Own Apples, Campfire & Marshmallow Roast, Freshly Baked Desserts & Pies, Fall Crafts & more! At Puddicombe Farms, 1468 #8 Highway, Winona, 905-643-1015 • Halloween Ho-Down Oct. 10th, 17th, 24th, Pass Includes: Live Entertainment, Wine Tastings, Halloween Train Rides, Doug’s Wagon Ride, Campfire & Marshmallow Roast, Kids FunTent, Fall Tasty Treat, Trick or Treat around the farm, Halloween Crafts and more! At Puddicombe Farms, 1468 #8 Highway, Winona. 905-643-1015 • Grimsby Authors Series at Casablanca Winery Inn 4 Windward Drive in Grimsby, Monday, Oct. 19 at 7 p.m. in
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Grand Ballroom (Second Floor) http:// www.grimsby.ca/Author-Series/authorsand-events.html 905.309.7171 • Stars on Stage Presents: Tributes to Elvis and other performers at Casablanca Winery Inn 4 Windward Dr. in Grimsby. Friday, Oct. 23 Dinner & Show in the Grand Ballroom 5:45-11 p.m. for $59.95/ person call to reserve. 905.309.7171 • 4th Annual Sisterhood of Soul in support of Big Brothers Big Sisters at Casablanca Winery Inn 4 Windward Drive in Grimsby. Sunday, Oct. 25th Food, Wine, Fashion Show, Shopping & Prizes! Celebrate in style, with great women and good friends. This fundraiser includes a gourmet lunch, wine tasting, fashion show, shopping, prizes and more! Proceeds towards the “Go Girls! Healthy Bodies Healthy Minds” program. 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. in the Grand Ballroom. Tickets are $75 each or $560 for a Table
of 8. A tax receipt will be issued for $25 per ticket. Call to reserve 905.309.7171 • The Pinot Affair- at Flat Rock Cellars 2727 Seventh Avenue Jordan Oct.17th & 18th: $40+hst Come taste with our owner – Ed Madronich, and talk through the decisions made around the use of oak as an enhancer and the options in the cellar that affect the final style of the wine. These tastings require reservations for 11a.m., 1p.m or 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. • 3rd Trivia Night with Ted Yates at Calamus Winery 3100 Glen Rd, Jordan Station, Oct. 22nd. Teams will be quizzed on their knowledge of music from the 60’s 70’s and 80’s. No team, we will pair you. Cost $20, which includes 2 samples, snacks and 5 rounds of trivia. Winners will win a wine-related prize pack. Doors open at 6:30 p.m., Trivia starts at 7p.m. and will last until approximately 9:30 p.m. (905) 562-9303.
Chef In Residence CUISINE
Apple Butter Pork Chops Apple butter is not a dairy product, despite the name. Essentially reduced apples and cider, it was called butter because of its use and consistency, thickly spread over crusty bread. True apple butter is so high in natural pectins and sugar, it will not freeze! In this recipe, it is used to marinate pork chops, which can then be pan-seared, grilled, or even finished in a slow cooker, if you prefer. INGREDIENTS • 4 Pork Chops • ½ Cup apple butter (available at Grand Oak) • ½ Cup cider (only if using the slow-cook method) • Salt • Pepper DIRECTIONS Season the chops with salt and pepper, then generously coat the chops with apple butter. Refrigerate for up to 2 hours – this will help the tenderizing.
Simply grill and serve, or, if using the slow cooker, use the low setting, and cook for 6 hours, or until tender.
Serve over potatoes or rice with the extra sauce! This is great with Ratatouille….
• Salt & Pepper DIRECTIONS I usually start the recipe out on high heat, allowing the vegetables to caramelize, before turning it low, to meld the flavours. Beginning with a small amount of vegetable oil, saute the onions, then add the
garlic, then the zucchini, the eggplant, and lastly, the tomato. Stir to allow it to brown slightly, then cover and reduce the heat. Season with salt and pepper, and herbs, and cook until tender. Allow to sit for 10-15 minutes before serving.
Ratatouille Aside from being a great animated film, this word actually refers to a seasonal and local peasant dish, brought to fame by Master Chefs in France’s elite kitchens. Though traditions vary, the key ingredients of tomatoes, zucchini and onion, are complemented by other vegetables, fennel, shallots, and garlic, and a variety of herbs – most found in every kitchen garden. This recipe really depends on your own garden, or availability. If your aunt or neighbor has a garden, trade what you have, or accept what they offer. Play with this recipe, as there’s a lot of variation possible. INGREDIENTS • 1 Red Onion, sliced • 2 Small Zucchini, sliced • 1 Medium Eggplant, large diced • 1 Pint of grape tomatoes (or the equivalent in chopped garden tomatoes) • 2 Cloves of local garlic • Herbs, (rosemary, thyme, parsley)
September/October 2015 | clubwest.ca
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Fishing PASTIMES
The day’s catch: (L to R) Ryan Smart, Brandon Gatten and Zach O’Donnel show off the results of their efforts.
Catch of the day a cast away, but one must find them first
By Brent Bochek t was mid-September and the sun wouldn’t be up for at least an hour. The wind could be heard blowing strong as my alarm clock rang. Knowing my clients for the day were coming from Kitchener, it seemed a good idea to drive to the shore of Lake Ontario to assess the water conditions. The strong westerly winds had the lake in turmoil with breaking waves. A call was placed to my group who were about half-way to Grimsby to advise them of the lake conditions. It was agreed to re-
I
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evaluate the conditions once they arrived. As the boat trailer was hooked to my truck, I noticed something. The wind had stopped. This immediately put a smile on my face and a new game plan was needed The south shore of Lake Ontario from Grimsby to the Niagara River can be an amazing fishery in the fall supplying a bountiful harvest of salmon and trout. With this in mind, lines were set in different stages of the water column to try and target all species. While fishing from a boat in Lake Ontario, one is
allowed to use two lines per angler. First, a couple of planer boards, which get your lines out and away from the boat needed to be set. These will target rainbow trout in the top 25 ft. of the water column. A favorite bait for this is the LIVETARGET smelt, a shallow running bait with a life-like appearance and action. After setting the rest of the lines, including a couple of Walker downriggers which will enable precision depth trolling, the
Fishing PASTIMES anglers waited for the first fish to bite. For the first two hours, not a single rod moved. Nothing was happening and I needed to find some fish. After starting straight out from Grimsby’s Forty Mile Creek – in about 200 ft. of water where we had caught fish earlier in the week – it seemed like a good idea to head into some shallower water. As the
boat got into about 120 ft. of water, we finally had a rod go off. As a matter of fact, in the next 20 minutes, we had three fish on and we managed to lose each one of them… Sometimes, being a fishing guide is like being a duck – calm, cool and collected on the surface and paddling like heck underneath the surface! That duck syndrome seemed inevitable and then it all came together. The day’s action ended up fast and furious as most of the last three hours of our sixhour trip seemed to have someone fighting a fish most of the time. One of the major factors on Lake Ontario for finding fish in the fall is
concentrating on areas that have creeks or rivers flowing into the lake. Starting midto late-August, mature salmon (3-4 years old) seek out the creeks and rivers in which they were born in order to spawn. Before the salmon come shallow to stage, before entering these tributaries, they feed heavily to store up energy that is needed to complete their life cycle – salmon die after spawning and their decaying bodies help to feed their young the following spring. Having a good depth sounder and GPS is important. My boat is equipped with Raymarine electronics. The units have both GPS and depth sounds on them. The depth sounder not only allows one to see how deep the water is, but allows one to see at what depth the fish are. One can also see schools of baitfish on which the salmon and trout are feeding. The GPS allows you to know exactly where you are out on the lake and gives you the ability to mark, and come back to the exact spot you may have seen fish on your depth sounder, or caught fish. High-quality line counter level wind reels such as the Okuma Coldwater and Convector allow an angler to know how much line they have out and the ability to consistently duplicate it after catching a fish. They also have a reliable and smooth drag. This is important when fighting big salmon that can peel off line like a freight train. Salmon and trout can make excellent table fare and can be pan fried, baked or cooked on the BBQ. One of my favorite ways to prepare it is to take a whole salmon (entrails removed) and stuff the cavity with onions, peppers, mushrooms and some butter. Wrap in foil and BBQ on medium heat until cooked all the way through – when the meat is flaky – typically 15-20 minutes. (Brent Bochek operates FISH NV, MultiiSpecies Guiding in Grimsby, 905-961-3474) September/October 2015 | clubwest.ca
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28 clubwest.ca | September/October 2015
Offered, see our website
Now Featuring: Holistic Massage, Reiki, Reflexology, Moor Mud Baths & Aromatherapy Treatments
Exclusive Retailer of 4265 Twenty-First Street, Vineland • 905-562-8902 • www.athertonhousebbandspa.com
Miami-inspired Phase 2 Now Open
Elegant Condominium Living Starts at Waterview. A blend of urban chic and cottage-like comfort, Waterview strikes the perfect synergy between modern design and the small-town charm of Grimsby. The building is the first of its kind in the area and the only high-rise tower with resort amenities and picturesque lake views. ----------------------------------------24/7 Concierge | Fitness Center | Party Room | Lakeview Roof-Terrace | WiFi Lobby | Underground Parking | Storage ----------------------------------------Featuring One-Bedroom | Two-Bedroom and Penthouse Suites ------------------------------------------
Starting from the $190’s ------------------------------------------
Inspired Lifestyle by the Lake
www.waterviewcondos.ca Sales Center Hours
We are open 6 days a week
Mon-Thurs 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Fri. Closed; Sat-Sun 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
Location: 544 North Service Road, West of Casablanca Exit, just off QEW, Grimsby, Ontario