SOUTHERN JEWELRY NEWS

















By Wanda Freeman
Like many before him, Avonlea Jewelers owner and first-time novelist William Baxley didn’t know he wanted to be a jeweler until he tried a new career direction. One day, he expressed frustration to a friend over the challenges of managing a chain of video game stores under corporate ownership. A month later, he began working for that empathetic friend, who was an established jeweler. It was 2011, and Baxley found the transition surprisingly easy.
Now as his career in the industry stretches to 14-plus years, the Lumberton, Texas jeweler can hardly imagine doing anything else. He makes jewelry and writes about it too - scripting his YouTube videos (@AvonleaJewelers) about making custom pieces, and recently publishing his first work of fiction, a young-adult dark fantasy novel titled The Jeweler’s Secret (available on Amazon).
“I left what I was doing and slipped right into the role. I became an apprentice. I had graduated from (Lamar) university with an art degree - which you can’t do anything with,” Baxley says with a touch of irony. “And then I discovered that all those classes I’d taken in sculpting, drafting, and drawing had really set me up to be a jeweler. … Every single step you take in your journey adds to what you become.”
Seven years later, his mentor died, and Baxley parted ways with the jeweler’s son to strike out on his own. He brought along his bench experience, an acumen for developing online sales, and a commitment to quality craftsmanship.
Again, it was a conversation with a sympathetic friend that led to the next big step.
“One of my friends said, ‘Have you ever thought about opening your own store? … Come to lunch with me and a few
Please see Avonlea page 4
By Deborah Yonick
Metal Marketplace International® (MMI®) is one of the largest gold and silver jewelry contract manufacturers in the United States, serving jewelry wholesalers, independent jewelers, chain stores, department stores, and electronic retailers nationwide.
“It’s no secret how the rising prices of gold and silver have affected the marketplace in the last 10 years. But jewelers who buy from MMI® can keep their gold and silver inventory lower and turn it over more often because we only supply the bestsellers,” says Founder and President Tony Acquaviva. “Who wants to go through thousands of pages in a catalog to decide what to stock? Does the average jeweler really know what sells in gold and silver? We’ve done the research the past 47 years, melting the slow sellers, and elevating the bestsellers.”
Please see MMI page 26
With over 47 years in business, MMI® has served over 20,000 customers and sold over $1 billion in gold and silver jewelry.
William Travis’s colorful scoop reveals all
By Mia Katrin
Seventh generation Chapel
Hill jeweler William Travis (williamtravisjewelry.com) designed and fabricated the fabulous crown featured in the dramatic finale of Outer Banks Season 4, “The Blue Crown,” streaming on Netflix. The first half of the season debuted with 15.5 million views, topping Netflix’s ranks. The central intrigue of the final plot’s treasure hunt revolves around the storied artifact.
Netflix Calls
Travis’s family has been in the jewelry business for 250 years. “I’ve known what I was going to do since I was 12 years old. I just assumed everybody loved what they did, the way I do.” He designs and fabricates exquisite original pieces, so far winning 18 Spectrum awards.
A chance meeting years ago with Orlando Bloom, who was filming nearby on the set of the movie “Main Street,” led to Travis working with Orlando, Colin Firth and Miley Cyrus. “One of the support crew, in props, came to my store and said, ‘Do you
Please see Crown page 34
Continued from page 3
of my friends. We like to invest in new businesses.’
“Within six months, we determined the name of the store and established why I wanted to do this: It was to bring a high-end luxury experience with jewelry to a rural area.”
As it happened, Beaumont, Texas, where Baxley and wife Tracey lived at the time, experienced Hurricane Harvey in 2017, leaving the couple’s house under
six feet of water - and pointing them to the rural area Baxley had envisioned for his store.
“Anyone who could afford to move was moving to Lumberton,” he says. Since then, the community just northwest of Beaumont has grown from barely 8,000 people to around 17,000, and the surrounding area has over 180,000 people.
Baxley opened Avonlea Jewelers in 2018 with support from those investor friends, all com-
fortable with his tech-savvy sales approach and dedication to quality. His background as an avid reader kicked in and inspired the name Avonlea, which won out over several options he proposed in an online poll.
“I always wanted a literary reference hidden within the name,” Baxley says, adding that Avonlea is the fictional setting in Lucy Maud Montgomery’s novel Anne of Green Gables. Within its first five years of
Established 1988
Editor, Bill Newnam
bill@southernjewelrynews.com
Publisher, Chris Smith
chris@southernjewelrynews.com
Administration and classified advertising
Martha Osswald
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Staff Writers
Wanda Freeman
Paul Holewa
Diana Jarrett
Deborah Yonick
Vice President Sales
Elesa B. Dillon
elesa@southernjewelrynews.com
William Baxley (owner, jeweler), Yasmina Grigsby (Assistant Manager), Tara Hollyfield (Jewelry Consultant), Alyssa Brooks (Jewelry Consultant), Tracey Baxley (Graphic Design, Pearls Specialist)
operation, Avonlea could attribute 30 percent of its revenue to online sales. In the past year Baxley upgraded his store website to maximize SEO, search-engine optimization, by painstakingly adding alt-text describing every image - thousands of images on the site.
From the outset, the Baxleys maximized their education and affiliations effectively.
Tracey - whom William met in a design class at Lamar - earned Pearl Specialist credentials from the Cultured Pearl Association of America, studied CAD jewelry creation through Stuller, and works in the store as a pearl and bead stringer. She also teaches art at a junior high school, and she copy-edited The Jeweler’s Secret William worked diligently and quickly to earn his credentials as a Certified Professional Jeweler from GIA, a Master Stone Setter from Stuller International, and a Registered Jeweler with the American Gem Society.
Contributing Writers
Kristen Baird
Bryce Bytheway
Diana Jarrett
Larry Johnson
Chuck Koehler
Ivan Levi
Southern Jewelry News
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Co., Simon G., Allison Kaufman, and other designers.
Whereas 80 percent of his business consisted of his own designs at first, Baxley now emphasizes designer branded jewelry. His own work involves a great deal of repurposing inherited pieces.
Elongated finger ring, forged 14K white gold, William made for his wife - alexandrite for her birthstone and diamond for his.
“The American Gem Society is one of the most rigorous organizations in the world. You must prove that you truly know what you’re doing, and I eventually earned my place. They hold continuing education in very high regard, as do I. … If you stop learning, you stop living.”
Additionally, Baxley hastened to connect with the industry to help build his business.
“When you first start out, no one wants to put their jewelry in your store,” he recalls. “They want to know your JBT rating and the designer brands you currently have.” Baxley quickly turned to JCK and connected with designer Alwand Vahan, where a gracious woman he spoke with mentioned that he reminded her of her grandson. From there flowed Gabriel &
Avonlea occupies 2,700 square feet, with about 1,500 square feet of showroom, and is furnished in a flowing horseshoe arrangement that enables shoppers to move easily along the showcases. He remodeled in 2021, replacing second-hand showcases with a more elegant, high-end look. He did so on the advice of consultants who told him his original billing as a gallery - because he decorated the space with artworks he and Tracey had created - confused shoppers about what he was selling.
“I would love to expand the store. We’re in a strip center, and at the 10-year mark I want a freestanding store. And I’d love to open another store in my favorite state, Colorado.”
Baxley says The Jeweler’s Secret was inspired by an author whose elaborately descriptive work he admires - Robert Jordan, author of the lengthy Wheel of Time series - as well as by personal experiences evoking themes of creativity, mentorship, and legacy. The title character is the one he aspires to be, he says.
He loves telling people his secret to success: “It’s never being afraid to ask for something. Ask for help. I did that when I was creating my store. What’s the worst thing someone can say? No. That’s it. And what’s the best thing they can say? Yes.”
By Diana Jarrett
Gemologists, and actually most jewelry professionals, are a curious bunch. Staying inquisitive is the drive that keeps us looking for answers, no matter how long it takes.
And one can take the position that anything you think of actually exists somewhere - somehow.
So it is no wonder that the possibility of a star opal could cross our minds. Opals are forever fascinating owing to their original look. Every single opal is distinct in some sense. The way in which these natural gemstones crystalize is the reason for their individuality.
With most other gemstones, the crystal structure is organized in a certain orderly way. Many of our most popular transparent gem-minerals are constructed in a cubic (also called isometric) crystal system. Diamonds are in this category of course - but also are spinel, tsavorite, other garnets, and on and on. Within these crystal systems, the unit cells take the shape of a cube.
But, when it comes to opal, it’s a whole different story. This natural silica-rich gemstone re-
sulted from hot mineral-rich silica oozing into rock cavitiesover millions of years ago. Tiny spheres of silica bond together and eventually create opal. To give you a visual perspective, the
internal structure of opal appears like the countless miniature soap bubbles stacked on top of each other in a lavish bubble bath.
Light Treatment
Their unique structure allows them to radiate a rainbow of hues in an otherworldly random pat-
opal, could a star phenomenon ever occur as well?
To uncover that answer, we have to understand how star stones happen. With most transparent to translucent gemstones, when natural silk like inclusions are present in the crystal, a sharp-
tern across the face of the opal. The opal stone is breaking up light into its complete spectral hues. To best exploit this spectacular display, opals are cut en cabochon with smooth rounded top surfaces and flat undersides. The colorful, shimmery patterns resulting from this type of polishing thrill gemstone fans.
Once Upon a Star
But could there be such a thing as a star opal? Since there’s so much randomness inside the
eyed stone polisher will cut the stone into a cabochon with a high dome rather than faceting it. By doing so, the silk-like inclusions will begin to display on the surface of the stone as separate long rays - ideally going all the way down the sides of the stone.
In general, cutters aim for 6-rayed stars - the straighter the rays the better and the longer they are, the more desirable. Some stones will produce just 4 rayed stars. It’s less common, but on occasion, some 12 rayed star cabochons have popped up. These occur in black sapphire usually.
Opal’s Different In Many Ways
With opal however, because the crystal structure is amorphous instead of the orderly cubic struc-
ture, something else is going on below the surface.
According to GIA labs, which saw one such natural star opal, there’s a clear explanation found when you examine this anomaly under high powered magnification.
According to GIA’s research lab, “Microscopic examination revealed large parallel planes with play-of-color intersecting to form a hexagonal pattern. This is responsible for producing the six-rayed star. This unusual stone serves as a reminder that, unlike asterism in other gem materials, the star in opal is caused by diffraction of light from faults or imperfections in the packing arrangement of silica spheres.”
As Odd As We Are
While there may not be an abundance of these odd stones, they serve as a fascinating reminder that we haven’t seen it all yet - and that gemstones found in nature can be as individual as our human population on earth too.
Award winning trade journalist and gemologist Diana Jarrett is a Registered Master Valuer Appraiser and a member of the Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers (AIJV). She’s a popular speaker at conferences and trade shows. Jarrett writes for trade and consumer publications, online outlets, her blog: Color-n-Ice, and www.jewelrywebsitedesigners.com. Contact her at diana@dianajarrett.com, visit her website at www.dianajarrett.com, and follow her on Facebook and Twitter (Loupey).
(LAFAYETTE, La.)Stuller’s highly anticipated Bench Jeweler Workshop is back and will take place at the company’s global headquarters in Lafayette, Louisiana, on March 28-29, 2025.
“This workshop offers an opportunity for bench jewelers to stay ahead of the latest industry advancements,” says Tiffany Adams, executive director of merchandising. “With sessions tailored to meet diverse skill levels, attendees can customize their experience by selecting from a variety of classes and demonstrations.”
The two-day event will feature hands-on classes and informative demos presented by both Stuller experts and renowned industry leaders. Sessions will cover topics including:
• Bench Demonstrations
• Applying Special Finishes
• Basic Diamond Grading
• Soldering Assembly
• Manufacturing With 3D Printing
• Hands-On With Modern CAD
Registration is also open for Battle of the Benches®, a series of mini challenges that test the
skills of exceptional bench jewelers. It will take place on the demonstration floor and will feature three different mini challenges over the two-day event.
The challenges include:
• CAD Mini Challenge
• Parts & Pieces Challenge
• Ring Repair Mini Challenge
“We look forward to welcoming Stuller customers to our Lafayette headquarters, where they’ll have the opportunity to gain valuable knowledge to drive business growth,” says Lauren Francez, director of events.
For more information on Bench Jeweler Workshop visit Stuller.com/BenchJewelerWorkshop and to register for the Battle of the Benches visit Stuller.com/ BattleOfTheBenches.
(ATLANTA) - Jewelry makers, artisans, and creators are gearing up for Bench Fusion 2025, a one-of-a-kind event running alongside the Atlanta Jewelry Show on March 15-16, 2025, at the Cobb Galleria Centre. This exciting gathering promises to inspire and empower attendees with cutting-edge techniques, business strategies, and networking opportunities to elevate their craft and careers.
Initially tailored to professional jewelers, Bench Fusion has expanded to welcome CAD designers, goldsmiths, silversmiths, stone setters, metalsmiths, horologists, and makers of all levels - from students to master artisans. Attendees will enjoy a packed schedule of expert-led workshops, live demonstrations, and insightful discussions on topics ranging from advanced stone setting and mokume gane techniques to leveraging social media for business growth.
Highlights include:
• Workshops on engraving, CAD design (Rhinoceros 3D), and alloy hardening led by industry icons like Gary Dawson, Joel McFadden, Tira & Rob Mitchell, Chris Ploof, and Jordan Mantzke (YouTube sensation with over 30M views).
• Networking town halls are designed to foster collaboration and innovation within the jewelry-making community.
• Sessions tailored for beginners and seasoned pros to explore the latest design tools, techniques, and trends.
Registration and Entry Fee
For $129, attendees gain access to all seminars, workshops, and exhibitions. Space is limited to individuals with credentials
verifying their maker status, including professional jewelers, students, and aspiring artisans.
Mission Statement:
BenchFusion aims to create a thriving community where makers are equipped with the knowledge, tools, and inspiration to excel in a competitive market.
Registration:
For more information or to register, visit www.atlantajewelryshow.com/benchfusion.
(MONTCLAIR, N.J.)Registration is now open for the 2025 INSTORE Jewelry Show, back for year three this September 28 - 29. Presented by INSTORE magazine, The INSTORE Jewelry Show once again comes to the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, IL. Eligible attendees can now register for a free show badge by visiting theinstoreshow.com.
After back-to-back successful years, this exclusive Midwest trade show has become a mustparticipate buying event for fine jewelry professionals as well as the industry’s leading vendors
and service providers.
“The INSTORE Show is a must-attend event for aspiring jewelry store entrepreneurs and existing store owners,” said Daniela Balzano of Water Street Jewelers in Guilford and Madison, CT. “It offers great networking opportunities, and informative discussions and panels by industry leaders. It is a place to find inspiration, motivation and direction. At the show, I not only attended as many panels as possible, I did some great buying, too!”
The INSTORE Jewelry Show is a gateway for retail store
owners, managers, and buyers to connect with top-tier suppliers, discover the latest industry trends, and immerse themselves in a conference program designed to help strengthen their businesses. New for this year, INSTORE’s Saturday Pre-Show Conference Program is now free. Retailers are encouraged to bring their teams in early for an extra day of complimentary education starting on September 27.
Beyond buying from renowned exhibitors, the show is also known for its interactive networking opportunities, including the Saturday Welcome Reception
and a new Sunday Show Floor Happy Hour that allows all participants a chance to unwind and mingle with industry peers.
“We’re excited to launch registration for the 2025 event and get the industry back together again,” said Matthijs Braakman, Publisher of INSTORE Magazine and the INSTORE Show.
“Our host city, Rosemont, IL offers convenience and fun for all participants, with the venue just steps away from many dining and entertainment options, including downtown Chicago. With our new September show dates, buyers have an excellent opportunity
to stock up on inventory before the holiday retail season and source new vendor partners for the upcoming year.”
For more information about The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025, visit theinstoreshow.com or direct questions to info@theinstoreshow.com. To learn more about 2025 exhibiting and sponsorship opportunities, visit the website or direct questions to exhibit@theinstoreshow.com.
Select Jewelry Shows has announced the addition of a Nashville, Tennessee show to their fall show line up. The Select Nashville Show will be held October 26-27, 2025 at the JW Marriott Hotel.
Better retail jewelers and their suppliers regularly sing the praises of the Select Jewelry Shows for their focus on security, comfort and bringing the right mix of exhibitors to leading markets. Select Jewelry Shows provide a convenient Sunday/Monday two-day schedule, secure, easily accessible and elegant venues and complimentary breakfast, lunch, and a cocktail party for all attendees.
Select Jewelry Shows, started in 2010 by Joe Carullo, are more personal events, featuring 55-65 popular lines and prestigious brands.
“Nashville, Tennessee was chosen as the location for our fourth annual show because it is an excellent market with strong household income levels,” said Jordan Brockhaus-Spears, manager of Select. “Additionally, many of the nation’s top jewelers are conveniently located within driving distance of Nashville and the JW Marriott.”
The Select Nashville Show’s October 26-27 dates is an ideal time for pre-Christmas fill in and to discover new holiday must haves. Select’s other shows are at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in Dallas, the Mohegan Sun Casino & Resort in Connecticut, and the RitzCarlton hotel in Washington DC. Pre-register to attend at www.SelectJewelryShow.com, email info@SelectJewelryShow. com or call 844-285-1103.
What I really like is that Dick Abbott has a store background, so he knows the ins and the outs of a day-to-day retail operation and what their needs are. He knew how to write the program to make it happen. It’s been such a blessing to have it.
It’s really helpful with repairs. We have a shop on-site. When clients come in throughout the day—and they come in often—we take a picture, describe it, drill down with the price book. It’s very automated, consistent, and professional. We love it.
-Brenda Newman, The Jewelry Source, El Segundo, CA For a FREE demo, contact us at 1-855-TRY-EDGE or sales@ajsllc.com. – In March, see us at:
By Ivan Levi
One of my favorite moments in life is walking into a business and making a genuine connection with a friendly cashier at the grocery store, or a waiter who actually cares about the answer when they ask about my day.
Interactions like these do more than ads, loyalty programs, and reward points ever could. People want to return to businesses where they feel welcomed, appreciated and valued, especially for important purchases.
A positive sales staff makes your business one of the places customers love. A positive sales staff sounds like common sense, but actually having it can be a challenge. Infusing positivity into the sales routine is a surefire way to boost sales - as long as it’s done right!
The Power of Positivity
When someone goes into a brick-and-mortar store rather than shopping online, it’s because they are seeking human connection. Perhaps they have questions for an expert to answer. Maybe
they’re excited about a purchase and want to share the feeling. Whatever the reason, positivity is what powers the sense of connection they want.
It’s tough for a customer to approach a surly salesperson who clearly does not want to be there. When a salesperson is open, excited, and welcoming, they create the kind of atmosphere that’s magnetic for customers.
A Personal Connection
Back in my early days selling jewelry, I had the great fortune to walk into an Indianapolis store
and meet Pat. She was warm, and so welcoming. Plus, she had an amazing smile that projected her authentic joy.
Not everyone is happy to see a traveling salesperson, but Pat made me - then a green road warrior - feel special, and even important. I noticed that she was wearing a pendant with the word “attitude” on it, so I made a joke: “I’m calling you Patitude from now on!” And I did - for years! Patitude made me feel welcome in Indianapolis, and I always looked forward seeing her.
Making it Genuine
Part of what made Patitude so memorable and appreciated was that she meant every kind word she said. She truly was excited to meet and talk with people!
Patitude is a direct contrast to the salesperson who fakes positivity. Those who fake it think they can hide it, but the customer always knows. False positivity irritates customers. This is especially true when someone has chosen to come to your store because they crave connection.
Positivity On Hard Days
There are so many circumstances that make genuine positivity a challenge for salespeople. A few examples are: lack of sleep, a tough personal situation, professional burnout, and/or coming down with an illness. Within those challenges, a person’s attitude is the only thing they can control.
When a salesperson finds a way to be genuinely positive, even just for a moment, it will make a hard day at work easier, even in the face of challenges. There are many ways to set troubles aside and focus on customer interaction. Know yourself and take time to find what works best.
Gratitude is what always works for me! Even on terrible days, I can find something to be thankful for about my job, even if it’s just how it provides for my family. By focusing on even a small reason to be grateful, I’m then able to generate true positivity, and it makes my job easier. What if Your Commission Were Attitude-Based?
I asked this question in a recent sales training, and it raised some eyebrows! But in many ways, anyone working on commission already has attitudebased pay. Positive, engaged, and excited salespeople tend to make more sales. Even in stores that don’t offer employees commissions, a salesperson’s ability to get a raise is based on the store’s ability to make a greater profit.
My challenge is this: What can you do to infuse more genuine positivity into your workday?
By Chuck Koehler
If you’re not aware, carbon dating is a process where scientists can determine the age of an object, or an event, as old as 60,000 years. Carbon dating was developed by a team of scientists led by Professor Willard Libby at the University of Chicago in the late 1940s. Willard would eventually win the Nobel Peace Prize for his work in this arena.
In a nutshell, scientists can measure something, and compare it against something else, and then stand behind a podium and say - in an authoritative voice“This piece of woolly mammoth poop is 41,000-years-old based upon carbon dating.” I mean, who am I to tell them that I think its 42,000-years-old.
But, how many of you can ‘Strontium Titanate Date’ something? I know I can, because I’ve done it. Where’s my Nobel Prize? The story goes something like this.
It’s around 1985, and I’m working at Rottler-Ulrich Jewelers, in the Valley Square Shop-
ping Center in Lewisville, TX, a suburb of Dallas. It was at Rottler-Ulrich that I started my trade shop, CMK Company, that I still own to this day. The store had just opened, and I had just gotten out of jewelry school at the Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology in Paris, Texas. Back then it was called The Jewelry School at PJC.
The store opened about the same time as the cut-off to be included in the next year’s edition of the phone book and the Yellow Pages. Talk about a tough first year. Imagine calling the operator and asking for the phone number for a store that you couldn’t pronounce, in a shopping center that was brand new and not in the system yet either.
Somehow though, customers would find us. Customers like Martin, the guy I wrote about recently that got a phone whacked up against his head. Another customer that found us was a very sweet lady named Ms. Johnson. Ms. Johnson was a widow whose husband had died about 20 years
earlier. She worked for the city and was approaching retirement age. Whenever she’d come in, I would ask her, “Did you bring me that million dollar broach to look at today?” She would tell me she didn’t, but she was starting to really think about selling it. Although I’d never seen it, she told me all about it.
She and her husband were in the oil business in West Texas back in the day. She told me that whenever a ‘well came in’, the owner of the well had to buy something extravagant to show everyone who was ‘the Big Kahuna’ in the Permian Basin at that moment. My friend Perry Graham, of Graham Brothers Jewelers in Amarillo told me how it works.
When a well hits, you hope that ‘the big flashy prize’ is jewelry. You could be competing against a new Rolls Royce, a luxury cruise, a 2nd vacation home in Tahoe, or it could be your $250,000 diamond necklace. If you’re in the jewelry
business, you know which of the prizes you’re rooting for. Perry told me about a woman whose well had come in, and he sold her the aforementioned $250K necklace. She came in to pick it up wearing faded jeans and an REO Speedwagon T-shirt. She paid for the necklace, put it on, and then drove to the next town over to play bingo at the VFW.
On the day that Ms. Johnson and her husband’s well hit, he chose jewelry too. And boy did he chose well. Mr. Johnson took his wife to Europe to find just what they were looking for. I can’t remember if it was a genuine Fabergé, a Fabrikant, or a Cartier, but it was one of the important ones. And, back in the early 1950s, they paid around $100,000 for this magnificent bauble. She wore it to all of the balls that were held in West Texas at the time. Just kidding, she wore it to the VFW to play bingo because that was the only thing out there to do at the time.
After her husband died, their company closed, and she moved to Lewisville and worked for the city. The only thing she had left to show for that time in her life was the broach, which she had always kept in a bank lock box. Her entire retirement was in that broach, and finally one day, she called me and told me she was ready to sell it and she was going to bring it by for me to see. There was no way I could buy it, but I knew the right people that would get into a bidding war over it, and was excited to finally see it for the first time. She walked in, and opened up an old velvet box from a fancy French jewelry store, and inside was the Holy Grail. She handed it to me, and I went blank, and
Please see Chuck page 36
ASHI is proud to announce its $50,000 donation to the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society (LLS), the world’s largest organization dedicated to curing leukemia, lymphoma, and other blood cancer diseases while improving the quality of life for patients and their families. This significant contribution supports LLS’s lifesaving mission, with a special focus on advancing treatments for childhood leukemia.
The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society has been a pioneer in the
fight against blood cancers, funding groundbreaking research and offering essential patient support. Over the years, LLS has made remarkable progress in developing therapies for children diagnosed with leukemia, one of the most common cancers among children and teens. Thanks to LLS’s relentless efforts, survival rates for childhood leukemia have significantly improved, bringing hope to families worldwide.
“We are deeply honored to support the Leukemia & Lym-
phoma Society and their mission to cure blood cancers and enhance patient outcomes,” said Mr. Pan-
dya, Partner at ASHI Diamonds.
“This donation is a testament to ASHI’s commitment to mak-
ing a positive impact in the fight against childhood leukemia. Together, we can help advance lifesaving research and bring hope to countless families affected by blood cancers.”
ASHI has a long-standing tradition of giving back to communities. Beyond their partnership with the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society, they have partnered with organizations such as the American Cancer Society, in their mission to save lives and lead the fight for a world without cancer; Americares, the largest provider of medical aid to the U.S. healthcare safety net during the pandemic; and Akshaya Patra, providing free school meals to underprivileged children in India, supporting causes ranging from medical aid to education. Their contributions reflect ASHI’s dedication to creating a better world.
In 2024, ASHI was proud to celebrate its 40th year in business as a family-run business, further showcasing their enduring commitment to quality, innovation, and community values.
To join ASHI and LLS in the fight against childhood leukemia, please visit pages.lls.org/ltn/nyc/ Manhattn24/ashidiamonds.
Your tax-deductible donations will help fund innovative treatments and improve the lives of patients and their families.
Visit ASHI online at ashidiamonds.com.
Continued from page 14
It might be a feeling of gratitude for a happy memory, a decision to smile more, or writing a thankyou note to a customer you always look forward to seeing. Find a way to really enjoy your job and share the joy with customers. You will be grateful for the connections you make!
Ivan Levi is a gemologist, third generation jeweler, and the owner of Grateful to Great™, a workshop series that applies the transformative power of gratitude in business. He has been published in multiple trade publications. He currently represents Levycreations, based in Chicago. You can find him online at ivanthegreatful.com, or on Facebook and Instagram as Ivan the Grateful.
By Larry Johnson
For years now, I have loved magic. Not so much the elephant disappearing routines, but the close-up magic where some old object goes away and then magically comes back all shiny and new.
There is a “free but mysterious” magician on YouTube that shows you some great disappearing tricks and then, a few seconds later, shows you how it works. His revelation of the secret is both very good and also, a bit disappointing. After watching this, I now know how its done, and
therefore it has lost some of the “magic”.
When I am doing a visual merchandising consulting trip (perhaps, in the store down the street from yours) and I am walking around getting my first store impressions, I usually go first to the stores bridal showcases. For most of my clients, Bridal Diamonds is their top category and any improvements I make in those cases will generate for them the most dollar returns, the fastest.
Frequently, I “blow up” (rearrange) those cases and make the existing arrangement of those
cases “totally disappear.” All too often, the existing arrangement of their bridal case is haphazard and hard to shop. I listen to a sample sales presentation given by the stores #1 salesperson and it is sometimes a bit wandering and does not flow smoothly.
It is not their fault They just need more magic.
As I have written before in these pages, bridal cases always generate more sales when they are organized to align with the sequence of the sales presentation of the salespersons. Add some good merchandising principles and, voila! - you get sales growth.
It’s not magic but it takes some effort on your part.
Here is my effort to help you! You see, it’s time for me to do a trick and you get to be my audience. No tickets needed, it’s free. Just give me 5 minutes of your time.
Go to your bridal case and take a few overhead photos of all your bridal cases. Write down what kind of merchandise is in each case (halos, sols, bands, etc.) and send the images to me at Larry@LarryJohnsonConsulting. com. Include in your email, a time and date we can talk for about 15 minutes and discuss your layouts.
Larry Johnson
It would be great if you had your EDGE “Inventory Performance by Category” report for the last 365 days (or equivalent), but we can live without it.
On the telephone, we’ll talk, I’ll ask questions, you’ll answer and in 10 minutes or so, I’ll give you FREE suggestions on how you might rearrange that case to sell more of the pieces you want most to sell - as if by magic! No sales pitch from me. No comments about your old displays being potential collectors items. We’ll use the displays you already have to implement any changes and if the trick doesn’t work and your sales do not grow (it happens sometimes), you can always put it back the way you had it. That mysterious magician creates amazing results with sleight of hand, some props and visual distractions. I want to help you create more sales by focusing your customers’ eyes on the pieces you want most to sell and then motivating that customer to decide a ring from your showcase is the one that belongs on her hand.
Bonus! The 7th store that sends me images of their bridal cases for free analysis will get a free, signed copy of my book “The Complete Guide to Effective Jewelry Display”. (A used signed copy is currently on eBay for $197.59)
The book will magically appear in the store right before your eyes, with the help of a FedEx delivery person chosen totally by random!
I’ll also give a free, live, 30 minute Zoom visual merchandising training session for one of your morning team meetings!
Disclaimer: I’d make Jake, my elephant magically appear in your store instead, but he’s currently out on the road doing a series of trunk shows. (Sorry!)
Larry is the founder of Larry Johnson Consulting Group, a world-wide jewelry merchandising and marketing advisory firm
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based in Colleyville, Texas. He is the author of “The Complete Guide to Effective Jewelry Display” and a frequent speaker at jewelry events. His firm has worked with hundreds of inde-
pendent retailers to improve their sales through better display merchandising. He is the holder of 6 US patents for his display products. He can be reached at Larry@LarryJohnsonConsulting. com or 817-980-2135. His website is www.LarryJohnsonConsulting.com.
(NEWTON, Iowa) - The Retail Jewelers Organization (RJO) is thrilled to announce the 2024 dividend for its retail members: an impressive 5.38%. This dividend emphasizes RJO’s unwavering commitment to supporting its members and driving their success in the jewelry industry.
“We are proud to share this significant dividend with our retail members,” said Sarah Streb, CEO of RJO. “At RJO, we believe in creating value for our entire membership, both retailers
and vendors and fostering growth through collaboration, innovation, and shared success. This dividend reflects the strength of our collective purchasing power and the loyalty of our membership.”
The annual dividend is a hallmark benefit of RJO membership, providing retailers with a tangible return on their participation in the organization. It is calculated based on member purchases from RJO-approved vendors, ensuring members are rewarded for their
New original faith influenced jewelry designs.
continued patronage with the organization’s trusted network.
In addition to the dividend, RJO offers its members a suite of benefits, including:
• Access to exclusive buying opportunities at RJO trade shows like the Buying Show that just ended in Phoenix, Arizona.
• Educational seminars and resources to enhance business strategies.
• Networking with industry leaders and peers.
• Tools and technology to streamline operations and boost profitability.
• Centralized billing, allowing retailers to write one check for all vendor transactions.
The 2024 dividend highlights the resilience and growth of the RJO community, even amidst industry challenges. As members continue to leverage RJO’s resources and partnerships, the organization remains steadfast in its mission to empower independent jewelers.
“This dividend is a testament to the strength of our community and the dedication of our members. They are going ‘all in’ with RJO - and it shows!” said Erin Sharp, Membership Coordinator at RJO. “We are here to support our retailers every step of the way, ensuring they have the tools and resources needed to succeed.”
Retailers interested in learning more about RJO membership and its benefits are encouraged to visit www.rjomembers.com or contact Erin Sharp at erin@ rjomembers.com or 800-2471774.
Eighty percent of what jewelers are selling all the time is MMI®’s 100 percent, shares Vice President Gina Bogda, second generation in the Philadelphiabased jewelry contract manufacturer. “We’ll be using this very strong message in new advertising in 2025.”
MMI® maintains deep product inventory of core essential jewelry for immediate delivery. In 10K, 14K and 18K gold chain, its top sellers include box chain, cable chain, wheat chain, true Miami Cuban (solid and semisolid), diamond-cut rope chain, figaro and curb link, and adjustable chains.
With thousands of chains in stock in its Philadelphia show-
room, MMI® can customize the length of most chains and links to the customer’s specifications at no extra cost.
“Tried and true bestsellers expand beyond these chain and link styles, which MMI® carries as well,” cites Acquaviva. “Styles like round box chain, palm chain, paperclip, flat and alternating marine link, and ‘anchoro’ chain, which joined our stock inventory collection a few years ago, continue to grow in popularity as the new classics. Oldies but goodies like herringbone chains, ‘cubetto’ necklaces, Byzantine and military ball chains still show demand as well.”
MMI® is also well-known for its extensive selection of hoop earrings, including polished, diamond-cut textured, and twisted in a new, stronger alloy that makes them more durable.
“Metal Marketplace leads with service, whether you are a small jeweler wanting no minimum purchase or a chain store desiring a jewelry program, our seasoned team can deliver,” underscores Vice President of Sales Joe Evich. “Our customers know us, and we know them. We take great pride in this connection.”
The company takes quality very seriously when looking at the products it brings to market, and evaluating what products remain in its collection. “We test all our jewelry,” explains Vice President of Sales Barry Hochman. “How does the chain lay? Does it get a kink? Is the style durable enough for the end use? This is why Metal Marketplace has the confidence to offer a Lifetime Warranty on all our gold jewelry, which is sold by gram weight. We stand behind what we sell and offer this warranty at no extra cost and no hidden fees.”
Another of MMI®’s valueadded programs is its Triple Play that offers special 90-120-day terms to credit worthy customers, three times a year - order in January, May and August, pay in May, August and December respectively, explains Sales Executive Alex Grosman.
“MMI® ships most products in one day from our stock catalog. Items from our CustomMade Link catalog are delivered in four to six weeks,” says Grosman. “This special-order catalog features 3,000 styles and 33,000 selections in 12 different metals and colors, including 10K, 14K, 18K, and 22K (white, yellow, rose, two-tone, and tricolor) gold, silver, platinum, and palladium with no inventory required.”
The 47-year-old contract manufacturer has been successful, as it remains true to its roots while always innovating. Bogda sees it as a blending and honoring of the company’s successful traditions, with new systems to
continue its growth, success and legacy.
“Customers can pick up the phone and work one-on-one with our sales associates, who pride themselves in their individualized customer care,” says Bogda, noting that the executive sales staff has over 100 years of experience selling jewelry in the trade, with expertise in developing programs for jewelers. “Providing exceptional service and making customers happy is our top priority.”
Jewelers also have 24/7 access to product on MMI®’s B2B website (metalmarketplace.com). Relaunched two years ago, the ecommerce platform provides easier navigation, faster load times, fully searchable database with better filters, clearer calls to action, smoother checkout process, customer price quotes for stock, and real-time inventory.
The first year since the relaunch, the new website saw over 100 percent growth in sales dollars and units, the past year they were up by double digits. “We’re committed to investing in the website and will be doing so again this year to make it even faster to give price quotes and place orders as we continue to look for ways to better serve our customers digitally,” says Bogda.
While the e-commerce business has grown, MMI®’s print catalogs remain an important resource. “Every day in thousands of jewelry stores, the catalog is put out on the counter by the independent jeweler,” describes Acquaviva, whose family pet, the
lovable black toy poodle Berger Bee Einstein, has graced every cover since 2017.
Bogda notes that jewelers can easily refer to the print copy at the sales counter to show the options available. The book does not have MMI®’s name on the outside, so that retailers can use it as their own, and know that when they order from it, the products are in stock and shipped right away from MMI®’s Philadelphia showroom.
MMI®’s stock catalog of gold, silver and platinum includes over 1,000 SKUs in chain and jewelry, more than $10 million of stock ready for immediate delivery. At press time, Bogda was working on the company’s 2025 catalog that will debut at JCK in June.
MMI® will continue to expand and fill in the gaps to meet its customers’ needs, whether adding new gauges of bestsellers, bringing in new partner factories to deliver lower costs, or broadening the selection with new chain styles and women’s fancy sets with gemstones.
For more information contact Joe Evich (jevich@metalmarketplace.com), Barry Hochman (barry@metalmarketplace.com) or Alex Grosman (alex@metalmarketplace.com) to develop a program for your company or call 800-523-9191 to get MMI®’s catalogs, which are available as digital copies, PDF versions or physical books mailed to your store.
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The Southern Jewelers Travelers Association (SJTA), producers of The Atlanta Jewelry Show (AJS), has announced its newly elected Board of Directors for 2025. Founded in 1950, SJTA seeks to advance the interests of its members and foster stronger connections among all professions within the jewelry industry.
Celebrating its 75th anniversary, SJTA proudly elected its second female President, Elesa Dillon, who has served as Vice President of Sales for twenty-two years at Southern and Mid-America Jewelry News. With dedication and commitment, Dillon has served in various board roles and risen to the position of President. “I’m truly honored to serve the wonderful SJTA community,” said Dillon. “As a proud secondgeneration member, I warmly invite all retailers and vendors to enjoy the show, where you can soak up the southern hospitality, explore the exciting Bench Fusion, and discover an incredible variety of vendors for your spring shopping”.
Executive Vice President Ross Wesdorp of Jewel-Craft and Vice President Allison Peck of Brevani/Color Merchants have been elected to the Executive
Board. Joseph Tsui of Empire Corporation returns as Secretary/ Treasurer. SJTA’s elected directors include Raj Lalwani of Roma Designs, Allan Cagle of Brilliant Elements, and Michael Pavlakos of Simplex Diam. Returning to the Advisory Board are Suresh “Sam” Mulani of REKO Settings, Jaime Schaller from Citizen-Bulova, and Lou Mazza of Raymond Mazza.
The next Atlanta Jewelry Show, SOHO Experience by AJS, will be held March 15 and 16 at the Cobb Galleria. “Join us to reconnect with your favorite suppliers, explore exciting new vendors, and participate in Bench Fusiona dynamic program that provides hands-on techniques, innovative tools, and strategies to make your business more profitable,” said Dillon. “This safe and welcoming environment offers invaluable insights and solutions tailored to help businesses like yours thrive and confidently take the next steps toward success. Don’t miss this incredible opportunity - an experience you and your team won’t want to miss!”
For more information, visit atlantajewelryshow.com or email info@atlantajewelryshow.com.
(BUFFALO) - Rembrandt Charms is proud to announce its partnership with Tricia Mangan, Team USA Alpine Ski Racer and two-time Olympian. This collaboration marks an exciting step in strengthening Rembrandt Charms’ presence in the sports, lifestyle, and fashion industries.
Tricia Mangan, a six-year USA Ski Team member, has built an impressive career, highlighted by her participation in the 2018 Pyeongchang and 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics. Her achievements include an 11th place finish in the 2022 Beijing Olympic Alpine Combined event, 9th place in the 2018 Pyeongchang Olympics Team Parallel event, and multiple national and international victories, including back-to-back World Pro Ski Tour Championship Giant Slalom titles. Her dedication, resilience, and pursuit of excellence align perfectly with the values that Rembrandt Charms represents.
A Perfect Partnership
“At Rembrandt Charms, we believe that every charm tells a story. Partnering with Tricia Mangan allows us to support a rising star from our region while showcasing our timeless charm jewelry in real-life moments through competition, training, travel, and everyday life of a top caliber athlete,” said Eric Lux, President of Rembrandt Charms. “We look forward to supporting Tricia and celebrating her personal stories, achievements, and milestones through our timeless charm jewelry.” This partnership will create organic and engaging content that connects with Tricia’s followers through authentic storytelling.
“As a massive jewelry fan, I’ve always believed that jewelry is one of the few ways we can express our personality and style, even during the intensity of competition and training,” Tricia said “Having highquality pieces that carry meaning is especially important to me as I travel the world for skiing. It’s incredibly special to partner with Rembrandt Charms, a company from my hometown of Buffalo, to share this journey. I’m beyond excited to showcase their timeless pieces in all aspects of my life, both on and off the slopes!” Contact Rembrandt Charms at 800-828-7840 or Rembrandtcharms.com.
an 18.23 ct. fantasy-cut Sunstone accented by mixed teal Tourmaline (1.15 ctw.) and Diamonds (0.76 ctw.)
For over five decades, Gems One has built a reputation for knowing what’s next - anticipating trends, elevating independent retailers, and delivering exceptional craftsmanship. Two years ago, Gems One set out to redefine luxury with the launch of Perfect Love, their high-end white-label brand spanning fashion, bridal, custom design and basics. Today, that vision has been validated with the Centurion Excellence in Design Award. In just two short years, Perfect Love has achieved what many take decades to accomplish - earning top recognition for design excellence. “This is just the beginning. When we set our minds to something, we don’t just step into the space - we make a commitment to it,” said Anuj Jain, Gems One CEO. “The decision to bring on a sight holder partner with incredible jewelry manufacturing capabilities was a difficult one for our 100% family-owned business,” he added. “However, we made this move with our customers in mind - to enhance our jewelry offerings and deliver exceptional quality. This award is proof that it was the right decision.”
For more information about Gems One and the Perfect Love collection visit gemsone.com, email Slav at slav@gemsone.com or call 212-869-7084.
(TUCSON, Ariz.) - Recipients of the 2024 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Buyer’s Choice Awards were announced on Saturday night, Feb. 8, 2025, at the Spectrum Awards Gala held at the Tucson Convention Center.
Jewelry industry personality, trend watcher, and television personality Michael O’Connor served as the emcee for the Gala. Over the week of the fair, AGTA GemFair Tucson attendees voted for their favorite pieces from all the award winners, with one selected from the Spectrum division and another from Cutting Edge. Winners are as follows: Spectrum Buyer’s Choice Award Winner
Matthew Tuggle, Tuggle Designs, contributors: Lauren Tuggle (co-designer & hand engraver), Ryan Anderson (lapidary artist), Kyle Forgey (supporting jeweler) - 18K rose and yellow gold and platinum “Whisper of the Ancestors” lapel pin featuring
This design also took the Spectrum Best of Single Entries Award and Men’s Wear 2nd Place.
Cutting Edge Buyer’s Choice Award Winner
Ben Kho, Kho International12.88 ct. cushion Portuguese-cut Rhodochrosite from Colorado.
This gem also took 2nd Place in the North American Mined Gemstones division of Cutting Edge.
AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. expressed gratitude for buyers momentarily pausing shopping trips to make their selections.
“AGTA buyers routinely make great decisions, so their choice of these two fine pieces was a delight to see,” said Ford after the Gala. “We know it was tough because there were so many great entries in this year’s competition. The next edition of Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards opens for entries at the end of June 2025.”
Learn more about the American Gem Trade Organization (AGTA) at agta.org.
Start learning from anywhere with self-paced online courses created by the leader in gemological research. Designed for working professionals, GIA® courses on diamonds, colored stones, pearls, and jewelry deliver knowledge you need to advance your career.
ASHI proudly announces the launch of its 2025 Bridal Marketing Program, centered around the theme “Timeless Vows”, which beautifully reflects the romance and commitment shared by couples on their journey to forever.
The 2025 Bridal Collection includes over 325 styles in bridal rings, wedding bands, fashion jewelry, and more, offering a blend of bold new designs, reimagined classics, and best-sellers. Central to the collection is the 52-page Bridal Book, which highlights ASHI’s finest creations, featuring contemporary, vintage, and classic styles. Additionally, the book provides educational content on the 4Cs of Diamonds - Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat Weight - to help couples make informed decisions in selecting their perfect pieces.
Highlights of the 2025 Bridal Collection
• Unforgettable Showcase:
The Bridal Book features over 325 designs, including more than 100 refreshed creations, each symbolizing devotion and romance with meticulous craftsmanship.
• Bold Gold Designs: The collection introduces radiant gold designs, redefined with unique patterns and exceptional craftsmanship, perfect for modern couples seeking timeless elegance.
Retailer Benefits
ASHI’s 2025 Bridal Program offers retailers a range of tools to enhance their bridal jewelry offerings and customer engagement.
• Customizable Bridal Books: Retailers can personalize up to four pages of the Bridal Book with their own branding, customer engagement images, and more, providing a unique marketing tool.
• Complimentary Copies: Retailers who sign up for the program will receive 100 complimentary Bridal Books, ideal for
• Personalized Experience: Couples can create the “Perfect Ring” with a range of customizable options, including various center shapes, sizes, metals, and diamond qualities, ensuring a personalized selection that reflects their unique love story.
denhancing in-store displays and online marketing.
• Marketing Support: ASHI offers a variety of resources, including advertising subsidies, digital assets, Bridal Giveaways, and in-store visual support to help retailers effectively engage and inspire their customers.
For more information please call ASHI at 800-622-ASHI (2744), contact your Regional ASHI sales representative, or visit www.ashidiamonds.com.
(NEW YORK) - Royal Chain has announced the launch of its new Spring 2025 Collection, marking the company’s largest seasonal release to date.
The release comes several weeks after the Vicenzaoro January 2025 show in Italy, where many of the new pieces were developed exclusively with leading Italian designers and manufacturers. Royal Chain has continued to meet industry demands for a diverse selection of jewelry, offering contemporary pieces and the latest trends in fine fashion. Today, with over 400 new SKUs and a 100-page catalog, the company is optimistic about the start of 2025.
ulous Tubogas series.
“We are excited about 2025 for Royal Chain and the industry as a whole,” said Phillip Gabriel Maroof, VP of Marketing & Design. “This new collection represents our commitment to innovation, offering retailers a diverse range of products that give them a competitive advantage.”
Retailers can browse the complete Spring 2025 Catalog online or request a printed copy at royalchain. com/catalogs. All styles from the Spring 2025 Collection will be available to order directly through the website. New arrivals include 14K gold styles with gemstones.
Retailers will have an extensive selection of brand-new pieces with which to begin the year.
Highlights of the stunning new collections include the next generation of charm jewelry: a series where customers create their own necklaces and bracelets with gold charms and complementary links, empowering the consumer to take ownership of their personal style.
Other looks include gemstone accented pieces with vibrant spring colors, and a retro-fab-
(BREA, Calif.) - Box Brokers Group, a leader in premium jewelry display and packaging solutions, is proud to unveil its latest innovation - premium gem jar displays designed to elevate the presentation of fine gemstones and loose diamonds.
Crafted with superior materials and a sleek, modern design, these new gem jar displays offer exceptional elegance and functionality. Each display is engineered to provide maximum visibility ensuring that every gemstone is showcased in its best light.
“Our new luxury gem jar displays were created with the needs of jewelers and collectors in mind,” said Jim Porterfield, owner at Box Brokers Group. “We understand the importance of presentation in the jewelry industry, and these displays reflect our commitment to quality, sophistication and innovation.”
Ideal for retail showcases, tradeshows, and travelling sales presentations, Box Brokers
Jeweler Bill Piorkowski has announced the creation of a new jewelry line - Endless & Forever.
A 25 year veteran in the industry, Piorkowski is also the owner of two jewelry stores in Ohio, EJR and Willow Jewelers.
He built his successful retail stores by focusing on honesty, excellent craftmanship, traits which have created a loyal customer base. His motto - provide the best quality products and services at the most affordable prices - inspired him to make Endless & Forever.
Gloria Janosik has worked for Piorkowski since 2021. Hired as an office manager at EJR, she grew into her current Executive Administrator role. She excels at forming relationships and customer service.
Group’s gem jar displays have a magnetic closure and a black and white reversible pad insert to best show off the gem inside. Magnetic trays that hold the jars are stocked in five color variations and are available in 1, 2, 3, 4 and 8 jar configurations.
For more information or to explore the collection, visit BoxBrokersGroup.com or contact sales@boxbrokersgroup.com.
Infinite Soldier, a brand known for its innovative designs and inspirational message, proudly introduces its Giant 10-Level Bracelet & Bangles Display, a game-changing solution for retail jewelry storage and retail presentation. Designed out of necessity while vending at festivals, this unique display was created to address the challenges of limited counter space, making vertical display an ideal solution when every inch matters.
“When I couldn’t find a display that met my needs, I decided to design my own - making it taller, wider, and more functional than anything on the market,” said Ike Thaler, founder of Infinite Soldier. “With 10 removable bars ranging from 10” to 18” wide and a built-in storage drawer, this display is perfect for jewelry stores, trade shows, boutiques, and personal collections looking for a space-saving, high-capacity solution.”
Key Features of the Giant 10-Level Bracelet Display:
• Maximized Storage - 43.5” tall, holds 180+ inches of jewelry.
• Adjustable Bars - 10 re-
movable bars (10”-18” wide) for flexible display.
• Durable CraftsmanshipMade from high-quality wood in 4 finishes: Light Wood, Dark Wood, Black, and White.
• Built-In Drawer - Extra storage for jewelry and accessories.
This launch aligns with Infinite Soldier’s mission to spread awareness about the impact of language and positive thinking through its innovative, inspirational art and unique products. The brand’s slogan, “Everything
is Possible ∞ ”reflects its dedication to creativity and purposedriven design.
Additionally, custom orders are available for bulk purchases over 50 pieces, catering to wholesale clients, jewelry retailers, and event vendors looking for tailored solutions.
For more information, highresolution images, or to place an order, visit www.infinitesoldier. com, contact Ike Thaler at 833780-4131 or email info@infinitesoldier.com.
Last year both Bill and Gloria noticed an increased demand for religious jewelry at the stores. Unsatisfied with the “limited and basic” options from their suppliers, they worked to build a new, unique faith influenced jewelry line.
All the faith influenced pieces in Endless & Forever have a special meaning behind them. Meanings for each piece are on their website, endlessandforever.com.
The positive messages behind Endless & Forever offer comfort, guidance, protection, and happiness through unique memorial and faith based jewelry.
All designs are made with lab grown diamonds and set in sterling silver with a white rhodium or 14 karat yellow gold coating. Featuring adjustable necklaces, bracelets, and a variety of ring sizes, Endless and Forever is versatile, appropriate for any age.
Retail prices range from $165 for their Commemorative Crosses and Key to the Heart series, to $300 for the popular Macro Guardian Angle Necklace. Other pieces include the Memorial Collection of ash holder pieces to honor the memory of loved ones, Mother & Child Cross, a uniquely designed Birthstone Collection, and a large Faith Collection.
Endless & Forever will debut at the Atlanta Jewelry Show, March 15-16. Learn more about the new line at endlessandforever.com, endlessandforeverjewelry@gmail.com or 330-990-6214.
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change watch batteries?’ ‘I do it all.’ He walked around my store, and said, ‘I really love your jewelry. When this movie’s over I’m going to Savannah to work on another movie with Miley Cyrus. And we need a line of jewelry for it. Would you be interested?’”
Travis for years has worked with top production companies including Disney and Netflix, supplied specialty products for Game of Thrones, done repair and restoration of swords and armor for the Smithsonian. He’s well known and trusted in the industry. “It’s wonderful and a great honor. When I think of all the metalsmiths that Netflix could call in the world, they repeatedly call me. There are so few true metalsmiths left.”
“We’ve designed complex pieces for film and TV before, and Netflix knew they could rely on us to create something worthy of the series.” An earlier attempt by Netflix to create the crown fell short, pushing production into overdrive. When the call came, Netflix told Travis he had to deliver in 4-5 weeks. Travis confirmed they could, but it would be a rush. And it would be expensive - the amount of unique specialty custom work required would require Netflix to buy all his time.
The Crown’s Magical Lore
The crown was inspired by a recently uncovered artifact from the Cambodian Khmer Empire, the Angkor Blue Crown, from between the 9th and 14th centuries, when the Khmer empire was a dominant force in southeast Asia.
The Outer Banks Netflix series plot - a treasure hunt for a long lost
treasure rumored to have magical properties - is loosely based on a true story. Netflix sent Travis a picture of the original crowngold with blue sapphires - which recently surfaced in a British collector’s private collection in London. The Angkor crown jewels was in 2023 returned to Cambodia by the family of British antiquities dealer Douglas Latchford, who died in 2020 while awaiting trial for art trafficking. The trove of 77 precious metal objects including crowns, necklaces, bracelets, belts and amulets from the Angkorian and pre-Angkorian period, many never seen by the public, was assumed to have been stolen, according to the Cambodian Ministry of Culture. Previously the crown was last spotted on Blackbeard the pirate’s ship in the 1700s, off the coast of North Carolina.
Travis also created for the Netflix series an epic citrine pendant of 462 carats, central to the plot’s unfolding - the treasure map for locating the crown is viewed through the lens of the citrine pendant.
Travis received the Netflix call while in Tucson at the colored gem show. He immediately rallied. “If I weren’t in Tucson, it couldn’t have been done.” With just four weeks to complete the crown, William Travis used his industry connections closely available in Tucson to source rare materials, including a four-foot sheet of 16 gauge silver and a 24 karat 40 micron gold coating. “Normally, these materials would have taken weeks to acquire, but I was able to get what we needed thanks to friends I’ve known for years.”
Handcrafting the entire piece, Travis enlisted help from metalsmiths worldwide. The gold
plating was ultimately done in Istanbul. “We were working 12 hours a day, 7 days a week. We had a lot of help.” The crown features synthetic sapphires and custom-cut gemstones, including the centerpiece - a deep blue gem made from cobalt glass, due to time constraints.
“The challenge wasn’t just the materials, but the craftsmanship required. Each bezel was handmade. There was no time to ship the finished piece,” Travis recalls. “So, Netflix flew me half way around the world to deliver it in person.”
Hand Delivering The Crown On Set in Morocco
In a final twist of fate, on the Monday before he was set to fly to Morocco to deliver the crown on set on Saturday, Travis fell while retrieving a big limb from massive live oak trees
at the beach and cracked seven ribs. Undeterred, he boarded the plane on schedule and delivered the crown. “They were losing money every day on the set the crown was not available. There was heightened security at the airport - with bodyguards. Customs was a bit tricky, as it looked like we might be bringing in rare antiquities.” Travis spent two weeks on set, meeting all the cast. “The Atlas mountain range in southern Crown
Morocco where the mountains meet the desert is a central hub for the entire film industry in Africa. Game of Thrones was shot here. Several different film crews were at our central hotel, including celebrities such as Anthony Hopkins, who was filming at the time. The Outer Banks cast were spectacular!”
The Promise of the Future Back home in North Carolina, Travis had the opportunity to take his 14 year old daughter Veda to meet some of the film crew in Charlottesville, a memorable experience. “Veda works at our retail store. During the past holiday season, she sold more than anyone else!” Travis’s 19 year old son Liam (short for “William”) is already active in the business, learning the trade, working with his father. With the 8th William Travis generation already rising,
the future looks bright. Travis recently opened a brand new retail store.
“My philosophy of always saying yes has been a huge positive factor in my career. People and companies love to deal with happy, positive people who can deliver on time.” Based on the amazing success of the Netflix crown saga, we can’t wait to see the next step unfold - maybe enhanced with touch of magic?
By Kristen Baird
Yesterday my Silentaire compressor went completely flat in the middle of a project. I stopped the project to check the tank and found that it was filling up perfectly, but somewhere there was a bleed in the line between my two GraverMax machines. After following the tubing through the attic of my space, I found a place where it had cracked, letting all the pressure go.
While my steady unpaid studio assistant (aka my husband) was crawling around the attic on his belly trying to run new tubing, I discovered there was a nick in my foot pedal as well, which explained why I lost every bit of pressure on both machines. The next thing I knew, I was online searching for Superthane Esterbased tubing to replace it.
When did I become my own in-house machinist?
A Day in the Life of a Business Owner
I got into jewelry design because I love the hands-on aspects of making beautiful pieces that people will wear and treasure forever. What I didn’t anticipate was all of the other stuff that goes with it. A typical “day in the life”
includes many different things, including working on marketing, social media, accounting, invoices, and meeting with clients. Oh, and I occasionally write magazine articles as well.
There is a significant learning curve between being just a jewelry designer and being an entrepreneur. Suddenly, you have to be the logistics manager, marketing manager, tech support, quality control, accountant and so much more. But don’t worry, it is possible to stay on top of everything without losing sight of what matters most: your clients.
Organize and Prioritize
No matter what, the top priority as a small business owner is your clients. That means prioritizing time in the studio so you can meet your deadlines and scheduling time for face-to-face meetings or phone calls. However, it can be tempting to devote all your time to studio and customer service, leaving nothing for anything else. When tax season comes around, you might find yourself in a bind. Been there, done that, learned the lessons.
That’s why it’s important to schedule dedicated time for nonstudio and non-client work. Having a few hours a week blocked
out on the calendar for bookkeeping, marketing, and emails makes a huge difference. Be firm about these working blocks. Other things will pop up, but at least you will have your basics covered. Use Tools and Delegate
Using digital tools like Meta Business Suite and Canva is also beneficial. If you want to, you can knock out a full month’s worth of content in a single day, schedule everything to post automatically, and then move on. In the early days, when you are your sole employee, this is a lifesaver. For email marketing, I highly recommend Flodesk for its beautiful and easy-to-use layouts and no limits on how far ahead you can schedule.
Over time, however, you will want to grow your team with experts who can run these areas of your business with more creativity and flexibility. These days, I have an incredible team that helps with social media, content, and photography. I even hired an accountant! (Although I still do much of my daily bookkeeping myself.) This frees up more time for clients and the studio. But, somewhat ironically, it also pushes me to try on even more non-jewelry-making hats. There
are always ways to improve your business.
Learn New Things
While I was working on a commission piece in the studio today, I popped on some YouTube tutorials about making video content on your phone. Did you know that those point-of-view videos are created with a phone mount connected to a mouthguard? This allows the creator to hold the phone in their mouth and have both hands free for the video. My mind was blown.
I’ve learned so many new things already this year, such as how to present a virtual jewelrymaking demo, how to create a TikTok video, and how not to run a pop-up sale. On the jewelrymaking side, I’ve improved my skills with CAD and mastered the laser welder.
Being a small business owner can be tough, but it’s also a gift. The opportunities to learn and discover are never ending. The trick is to find the right balance between a perfectly organized Google calendar and an unex-
pected journey where anything can happen!
Kristen Baird® Jewelry is an award-winning, fine jewelry brand, nestled in historic Savannah, Georgia. In a time where mass manufacturing is predominant, Kristen and her team utilize and preserve traditional metalsmithing skills as they delicately and precisely craft each piece by hand in Kristen’s studio. Using sterling silver, recycled 18K gold, and ethically sourced gemstones, Kristen’s jewelry is full of color and texture with juxtaposing forms both geometric and fluid. Learn more at www.kristenbaird. com.
By Bryce Bytheway
Soldering has been, and still is, an integral part of successful jewelry manufacturing and repair. This technique has been employed for thousands of years by jewelers all around the globe. We can even find evidence of ancient Mesopotamians using early soldering methods to create intricate gold pieces - just substitute the modern-day torch with bellows.
Today’s jewelers have adapted these traditional methods with great effect, working with a wide range of materials and creating everything from tiny, intricate jewelry to large sculptures, adding a beautiful hands-on artistic value that we all appreciate. Jewelers can create fluid, organic shapes, seamless joints, artistic detailing of granulation, filigree, and repoussé.
A high level of heat control enables smooth metal blending to enhance a particular workpiece’s beauty, infusing character, warmth, artisanal touch, and showcasing the unique signature of each individual jeweler’s hand. However, just because these techniques have been around for thousands of years, doesn’t mean that today’s jewelers should not employ other techniques and methods to create beauty.
Consider the pulse arc welder. Its origins can be traced back to the 1880s when electric arc welding was first discovered and patented. Yet, over the past almost 150 years it has been refined
to incredible levels of precision and flexibility. Jewelers in search of modern solutions for modern problems first started utilizing pulse arc welders in jewelry production and repair around 20 years ago to remarkable effect. While some contemporary artists have replaced traditional soldering entirely, most have found that combining both techniques creates the most versatile, efficient workflow.
Pulse arc welding offers many benefits that would be difficult, or flat out impossible, to achieve with soldering alone. On first glance at pulse arc welding, you’ll find that the heat applied during the welding process is so fine, controlled, and pinpointed, that it is possible to weld near precious stones, heat sensitive materials, and on tiny, detailed work, without fear of causing damage to the piece.
On further inspection, you might notice how simple these machines are to use. A jeweler without any formal training can start welding with a pulse arc welder in only minutes with nothing but some scrap material and their can-do attitude! Pulse arc welders are finding their way into schools where teenagers around the country are now creating beautiful jewelry pieces in school classes - discovering the joy of artisanal work and finding they can make-and-create.
For the jeweler, adding a pulse arc welder to your toolkit perfectly complements tradi-
tional torch and solder methods, creating a dynamic combination that enhances both efficiency and craftsmanship. For example, when assembling a custom piece, a jeweler can use the pulse arc welder to tack components - like bezels, prongs, or decorative elements - securely in place with pinpoint precision. This prevents shifting during the soldering process, ensuring perfect alignment. Once the components are tacked, the jeweler can apply traditional soldering techniques to create strong, continuous bonds, flowing solder seamlessly through the joints.
In repair work, this combination truly shines. The unmatched precision of the pulse arc welder allows jewelers to work on delicate components like prongs, jump rings, and fine chains without the risk of heat damage to nearby stones or intricate details. Unlike soldering, which requires heating the entire piece, pulse arc welding focuses energy in a pinpoint area, reducing the chance of warping or discoloration - perfect for heat-sensitive gemstones like opals, emeralds, and pearls. For pieces without heat-sensitive components, or those requiring broader heat distribution (especially ones previously soldered), the torch remains the perfect tool.
Restoring antique jewelry is the perfect example of how torch soldering and pulse arc welding work hand in hand. Soldering often aligns with the original craftsmanship of vintage pieces, offer-
ing seamless repairs that honor the piece’s historical integrity. However, pulse arc welding adds a layer of precision and flexibility, allowing for safe repairs near fragile gemstones, on complex metal combinations, or for quick fixes like micro-cracks and worn prongs. By integrating both techniques, jewelers can preserve an antique’s charm while enhancing its structural integrity. It’s the best of both worlds - where modern technology meets timeless craftsmanship, creating pieces that are both historically authentic and built to last.
In the ever-evolving world of jewelry making, the key to mastering your craft isn’t about choosing between traditional methods and modern technology; rather, it’s about knowing how to blend them.
Soldering and pulse arc welding each bring unique strengths to the bench, and when used together, they provide endless possibilities for creativity, precision, and efficiency. Whether you’re restoring a treasured antique, crafting a custom masterpiece, or making
Continued from page 18
handed it right back to her as I tried to catch my breath. She’d been ripped off. The 10 carat, flawless, D-color center diamond was fake. After about 30 minutes of all of us in the room coming to grips with the situation, I asked her if it had ever been out of her possession. She said no. All of the paperwork confirmed that what they bought was genuine. The provenance was unquestionable, but what she had now had been tampered with. The center diamond had been switched
She’s devastated as you can imagine, and couldn’t understand how this could happen. She said the only time it was ever out of her possession was when they had used it as collateral on an oil deal with their bank. She and her husband took it out of their bank deposit box, and placed it in the bank’s safe deposit box a few rows away. About 4 or 5 months later, they paid off the loan, and she and her husband, and their banker, took it out of the bank’s deposit box and put it back in her own. I asked her when that happened. She said it was so long ago, she didn’t know, and didn’t have any of those records anymore. I asked her if it was possible that it happened between 1955 and 1962. After a minute of
quick, delicate repairs, the combination of these techniques allows you to tackle any project with confidence.
Embracing both honors the rich history of jewelry craftsmanship while pushing the boundaries of what’s possible. In the end, it’s not about the tools you use - it’s about how you use them to bring your artistic vision to life.
Bryce Bytheway is an expert micro welder having spent much of his life in the study of metals, metallurgy, metal welding, and metal machining. He resides in Utah and provides full-time consulting for Sunstone Engineering LLC as a business development manager. Bryce dabbles in jewelry, specifically mixing different metal types into a single workpiece using micro welding processes.
thinking about it, she said that she was positive it was in that time frame, and wanted to know how I knew that.
Like I said earlier, I don’t know anything about Carbon Dating, but by golly, I can Strontium Titanate Date with the best of them. Strontium Titanate was only popular as diamond substitute during those 7 years. Then we moved on to YAG, and then GGG. That damned banker took her broach and had the center diamond removed and replaced with a Strontium Titanate. Under the microscope, it was clear as day that it had been tampered with. Although the story is a sad one, the piece was still very important, and very valuable. I think she ended up selling it for around $100,000. It was in spectacular condition, except where the gouge marks were when they lifted back the prongs. The buyer I assume put a period correct 10 carat back in it and then sold it to its next caretaker.
Chuck is the owner of Anthony Jewelers in Nashville, TN. Chuck also owns CMK Co., a wholesale trade shop that specializes in custom jewelry and repair services to the jewelry industry nationwide. If you would like to contact Chuck or need a speaker or instructor for your next conference/event he can be reached at 615-354-6361, or send e-mail to info@southernjewelrynews.com.
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Call 770-396-1787 • FAX 770-395-6959, email to wfn2@mindspring.com or write at 5579B Chamblee Dunwoody Rd. #215, Dunwoody GA 30338 - Dept J4 We are members of SJTA. Serving the Jewelry Industry since 1974. Know of an estate or business for sale?
An intriguing phenomenon of some diamonds is that they appear to glow blue, and less often green, yellow, orange, or a combination of these colors when exposed to invisible ultraviolet rays. This glow is called fluorescence, and lasts only as long as the diamond is exposed to the ultraviolet rays.
The culprit - nitrogen
In most cases, fluorescence is caused by the presence of nitrogen as a trace element impurity in diamond. You may know that diamonds are composed of carbon atoms organized in a latticelike crystal structure. Sometimes some carbon atoms are missing in
the lattice. These single or multiple vacancies may each be filled by a nitrogen atom. For example, a single nitrogen atom trapped near a vacancy causes bright orange-yellow fluorescence. But most commonly, three nitrogen atoms in lattice positions adjacent to a vacancy cause blue fluorescence.
In addition to color, fluorescence also varies by strengthfrom none, faint, medium, strong, and very strong, as described on GIA grading reports. The fluorescence color and its intensity are additional characteristics that can help to identify a specific diamond.
A common feature of diamonds
Fluorescence is a common phenomenon in diamonds. Of all the diamonds submitted to GIA over the past decade, approximately 25% to 35% exhibit some degree of fluorescence. And of those, only 10% show strengths of fluorescence in the medium, strong, or very strong categories.
GIA studies have shown that the strength of fluorescence has no widely noticeable effect on a colorless or near-colorless diamond’s appearance. In fact, many prefer the appearance of diamonds that have medium to strong fluorescence. In very rare
cases (fewer than 0.2% of the fluorescent diamonds submitted to GIA), some diamonds with extremely strong blue fluorescence may appear hazy or oily. No impact on a diamond’s strength
The presence of nitrogen or other impurity atoms in the diamond crystal structure does not have any influence on the hardness or durability of a diamond. While some diamonds may exhibit fluorescence, customers do not find this as a deterrent when buying a diamond. In fact, many retailers have expressed a liking for it.
The most important criteria when receiving a diamond on memo is the hand selection process by their vendor. Having the right partner to personally view a diamond and describe the qualities and features of the diamond before it is shipped is imperative.
GN Diamond is the market leader for wholesale diamonds and diamond jewelry. GN partners with over 5,500 independent retailers across the country. Even though 10% of GN’s inventory has medium/strong fluorescence, this does not take away from the brilliancy of the diamond. In fact, GN provides a free light brilliancy grading on every GIA certified loose diamond. This score explains why one diamond is better and brighter than another and why it outshines those of your competitors. Every GN diamond that goes out on memo is hand selected. This everyday procedure clearly helps retailers understand what they are receiving and provides comfort when presenting the most beautiful diamonds at the right price points.
GN Diamond is open 7 days a week, 800-724-8810, sales@gndiamond.com, gndiamond.com.
Introducing Jewelie (L) and Stone! JoAnn Grundhauser, owner of Stillwater, Minnesota-based Diamonds on Main, rescued these darling Havanese sibling pups in October of 2022 from a mill breeder. Initially, Jewelie was afraid of everyone and Stone could not stop barking. However, they quickly took to the job of greeters at Diamonds On Main, learning to socialize with their many visitors. “It has been a heartwarming joy to see them grow into ‘real dogs’ with the loving kindness of all who visit,” says JoAnn. Having missed so much as puppies, they are now part of the jewelry experience, loving the attention as well as special treats brought by customer friends. Jewelie and Stone are also avid supporters of “Paws for Patriots” providing guide dogs for our beloved service men and women.
Say Hello to Ruby Rose! Ruby is a 3-year-old Cavapooa crossbreed of a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and a Poodle. She has been a member of the team at Kneucraft Fine Jewelry & Design in Murfreesboro, Tennessee since she was a puppy. Ruby works hard every day greeting customers with her “welcome” bark. When she is not on the sales oor visiting with customers and getting loved on, she can be found in the accounting o ce cozied up taking her afternoon nap.
Do you have a furry friend that helps out in your store? Tell us about it and send a picture to bill@southernjewelrynews.com.
From small adjustments to complete custom designs, Stuller’s manufacturing capabilities will make every dream piece a reality.