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Korman Fine Jewelry: Raising the standard with new retail location

By Wanda Freeman

It started in 1973 with a trunk full of African beads, a second-hand quilt, and a table on The Drag - the nickname for that funky section of Guadalupe Street bordering the University of Texas in Austin. Now, fifty years after founder Russell “Rusty” Korman slept in his car to claim his prime spot across from campus, the jewelry store that bears his name is making history with a new home, just a few blocks from where his story began.

There will be no camping out this time: Korman has decidedly magnificent plans for the historic corner of 29th and Lamar, where owners Larry and Kat Stokes will transform a long-vacant, graffiticovered property on the outskirts of the university campus into a vibrant space of celebration.

Kat Stokes, store co-owner since 2018 along with her husband, looks forward to restoring life to this spot, which is now under construction and set to open in October. The new space will offer the Korman team nearly

double the space to celebrate with clients, from 6,000 square feet to just under 11,000 square feet.

“We fell in love with this iconic corner right across from

IGI’s latest interactive educational formats offer effective sales training for jewelers

By Deborah Yonick

Education is foundational at the International Gemological Institute (IGI).

While independent jewelers in North America may know IGI for its gemological laboratory - the world’s first to hold ISO accreditation in both natural and lab-grown diamonds - many may not know of its pioneering history as an educator in the diamond and jewelry industry.

Founded in 1975 in Antwerp, world capital of diamonds, IGI has proactively supported diamond and jewelry professionals in all sectors of the trade, including prestigious luxury brands, national chains, and independent jewelers with effective education and training opportunities.

IGI’s global footprint consists of 29 laboratories and 18 Schools of Gemology spanning 10 countries.

Under the leadership of John Pollard, who joined IGI as Senior

Director of Education in 2022, the organization recently launched in North America hands-on grading workshops, seminars, webinars, and a series of groundbreaking eLearning short courses.

The aim of these initiatives, Pollard explains, is to build a foundation in gemology for average retail jewelers, as well as career diamond graders, where professionals can gain knowledge applicable with consumers in real-world scenarios in a market that may not have looked to IGI before as a resource for educational services.

the Shoal Creek greenspace,” says Stokes. “It’s going to be a place our clients will want to come to and stay for a while.”

To bring their longtime vi-

sion to life, the couple partnered with Michael Hsu Office of Architecture, an AIA renowned architect known for hospitality

Please

The Wrong Time

By Diana Jarrett

Luxury timepieces are big business. They represent a massive revenue stream for the luxury goods sector. But so do fake timepieces. And that’s the never ending dilemma to resolve, say retailers.

Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Richard Mille top the list of most ‘faked’ watches. Runners up include Omega, and Cartier. But all status-con timepieces have their counterfeit for sale somewhere.

If you’re in Hong Kong, you may find street vendors discretely hawking fake watches in open-air markets. Some vendors post a lookout man waiting for tourists to walk by - and usher them into an alley behind normal storefronts.

But you don’t have to leave the country. Canal Street in New York City is the epicenter of designer knock-offs. There are even guide pamphlets indicating where the best vendors are, selling faux designer handbags, sunglasses and yes, watches. This sub-culture is a cash only business, of course.

With somewhere over 23 million fake watches in circulation currently throughout the US, counterfeit goods are definitely on the uptick.

They’re Everywhere

Most metropolitan areas are hubs for fake watches - mainly because the residents are more social

Rendering of the planned Bridal Suite. Image Michael Hsu Office of Architecture.

Rolex Deep Sea Real v Fake. Image Bob’s Watches

KorMAn

Continued from page 1

and transforming existing structures into vibrant and functional spaces.

“Jewelry is more than a transaction, it’s an experience,” Stokes explains. “There will be multiple lounges, two bars, and a variety of different ‘moments’ throughout the space. Rather than walking around, you can relax, and we will bring the jewelry to you, offering a more curated, personal experience.”

Renderings for the property show a spacious yet inviting interior and an exterior positioned in a villa-like setting featuring a wall enclosure, brick-paved park-

ing, and natural landscaping amid views of Shoal Creek.

“Our clients are well traveled, and this space will be on a par with their travels,” Stokes says. “We want them to know that they don’t have to travel to New York or Dubai for this experience.”

Stokes is no stranger to transforming spaces. When she and her husband purchased the business in 2018, they transformed the

space and its inventory - offering the vast selection of diamonds, Swiss timepieces, and designer fine jewelry that are found at Korman today. While they made many changes, they maintained the Korman name as a tribute to the roots of their business.

Along with Rusty’s namesake and his pillars of integrity, the Stokeses also inherited the Korman team, including client specialist Brooke Winfrey, who

SJN MAJN

Established 1988

Editor, Bill Newnam bill@southernjewelrynews.com

Publisher, Chris Smith chris@southernjewelrynews.com

Administration and classified advertising

Martha Osswald martha@southernjewelrynews.com

Staff Writers

Wanda Freeman

Paul Holewa

Dianna Jarrett

Deborah Yonick

Vice President Sales

Elesa B. Dillon elesa@southernjewelrynews.com

Contributing Writers

Dana Ho Henning

Diana Jarrett

Larry Johnson

Chuck Koehler

Joel McFadden

George Prout

Southern Jewelry News

2006 New Garden Road - Suite 208 Greensboro, NC 27410

Phone: 336-389-1950

Fax: 336-389-1952

www.southernjewelrynews.com

email: info@southernjewelrynews.com

Any views or opinions presented in this publication are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Southern Jewelry News.

started working for Rusty Korman in 1985.

Says Winfrey: “I thought when Rusty retired, that would be my cue to retire. But when I met Larry, I thought, ‘Wow, I’m getting on this bus because it’s going somewhere fun.’”

Today the store has a team of twenty-seven people, tailor-fit for

environment that sets Korman apart. Both Stokes and her husband experienced the death of a parent early in life, so the expression is a reminder to appreciate every moment as it comes.

The Stokeses plan to continue Korman’s emphasis on high-end luxury experiences and unique offerings in the new space. The store boasts numerous exclusive accounts along with names such as Single Stone, Viltier, Messika, Jade Trau, FOPE, Artemer, and Oscar Heyman, and is an authorized dealer for Swiss timepieces including Rolex, Tudor, Omega, and Oris.

While a full list of new designers to expect in the new space has not been disclosed, Korman

their positions - including three jewelers, two watchmakers, an appraiser, an inventory manager, a repairs liaison, a Rolex liaison, a marketing team, a styling team, watch enthusiasts, and an accountant.

Korman continues to honor traditions of philanthropy, humility, and integrity, and to hone its own vision for taking care of employees and customers.

The store’s mantra, “Celebrate Every Day,” contributes largely to the fun and welcoming

recently announced their newest partnership with high-end piercing specialist and jewelry designer Maria Tash.

“Being able to build this store has been our longtime dream,” Stokes says. “This was our vision, a space that matched both the experience and the jewelry. It will be so wonderful to share with the community. It’s going to be beautiful and something we know people in Austin will be proud of.”

Learn more about Korman at kormanfinejewelry.com.

Store founder Rusty Korman (r) with current owners Larry and Kat Stokes.

Rendering of the interior of the nearly 11,000 sq. ft. store.

Exterior rendering. Image Michael Hsu Office of Architecture.

Larry and Kat are transforming a long-vacant, graffiti-covered property.

ASHI announces winner of 2024 Valentine Sales Associates Instagram Giveaway

ASHI is excited to announce the winner of their 2024 Valentine Sales Associates Instagram Giveaway. Sally Winterman from Powell Jewelry in Wichita, KS, was randomly chosen from the pool of entries as the winner of ASHI’s very first Instagram Giveaway. Sally won a beautiful 1 ct diamond station necklace as a gesture of ASHI’s appreciation.

ASHI introduced this Instagram Sales Associates Giveaway as a token of gratitude for the passion and commitment that sales associates bring to the realm of fine jewelry.

The giveaway ran from January 15, to February 14, 2024. The winner was announced after Valentine’s Day. It offered a unique opportunity for one lucky sales

associate to win a dazzling 1 ct station necklace, valued at $2,499 retail. “This exquisite piece of jewelry is more than just a prize, it stands as a symbol of ASHI’s sincere appreciation,” said Mr. Pandya, partner at ASHI.

Engaging in the giveaway was easy - sales associates were required to follow ASHI on social media, like the giveaway Instagram post, and tag three friends and their retail store in the comments.

ASHI’s commitment to recognizing and rewarding the dedication of sales associates is evident in initiatives like the Instagram Giveaway. By creating opportunities for engagement and appreciation, ASHI aims to foster a sense of community and celebration among their valued retail partners.

ASHI’s latest Giveaway was at the IJO Conference in Dallas, Texas from March 9 - 12, 2024. During this event, ASHI offered one lucky retailer the chance to win a beautiful personalized

script name necklace in 14KT. This giveaway is part of ASHI’s ongoing commitment to engage with and reward their valued retail partners.

For more information on ASHI call 800-622-ASHI (2744), contact your regional ASHI sales representative, or visit www. ashidiamonds.com.

John Kennedy announces retirement as President of Jewelers’ Security Alliance

(NEW YORK) - John Kennedy, who has served as Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA) President for 32 years, has announced his retirement effective at the end of 2024. Kennedy, an attorney, joined JSA in 1992 after serving as Assistant Commissioner of the New York City Department of Investigation, and following other positions in government, academia, and a non-profit organization.

Kennedy stated: “JSA has never been stronger. It has a superb board and crime team, excellent relations with law enforcement, and a wide and effective reach to its large membership and the entire industry. JSA’s finances are solid, and its supporters are loyal and generous. This is a perfect time for me to step aside from what has been a very satisfying career.”

JSA’s board and its search committee are engaged in the process of selecting a new President. There have only been four JSA Presidents since 1897, with average terms of over 30 years each.

John Kennedy

Alan Zimmer, Chairperson of JSA, said: “JSA will miss John’s steady leadership of the organization for the last 32 years. He will also be missed for his many contributions to the jewelry industry. On a personal level, I would like to thank John for his stewardship of JSA and will greatly miss John for his professionalism and friendship. We wish John all the best in his future retirement.”

Mr. Kennedy has been recognized for his many contributions to the jewelry industry and was awarded JCK’s Person of the Year in 2002; the AGS Award for Lifetime Achievement in 2008; the Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement from Jewelers of America in 2021; and the Stanley Schechter Award from Jewelers Vigilance Committee, also in 2021.

“I am grateful for the unfailing industry support that I have always felt, and I look forward to staying in touch with friends and colleagues by continuing my service as Secretary of the 24 Karat Club of New York, as I have done for the past 22 years,” he said.

Learn more about JSA at jewelerssecurity.org.

Winner Sally Winterman, Powell Jewelry, Wichita Kansas

When to update your jewelry website or build a new one

By Guy Pineda

We’ve all been there - staring at our website and wondering if it’s time for a makeover. It’s essential to differentiate between a genuine need for change and the desire for something new.

Having worked with many clients, I can tell you that when it comes to making this decision it depends on the client’s time, budget, existing website complexity, purpose, security needs and other factors.

In this article, I’ll help you decide whether it’s time to upgrade your website or build a new one. Regardless of the choice, both options basically have the same result: a new website for

your jewelry business.

Evaluating the Current Website

When clients approach us seeking advice on this decision our initial step is to conduct a thorough website audit to determine the best course of action. The evaluation examines their current website’s performance, design, and functionality, which will then help us determine what aspects of their website are working well and which areas could benefit from improvement.

Here are the three things we consider, among many others:

1. Performance AnalysisUnderstanding user engagement metrics such as bounce rate, average session duration, and con-

version rates helps pinpoint areas for improvement. For that we use website performance test tools like Google PageSpeed Insights or Google Search Console. Understanding these metrics can help us identify strengths and weaknesses in a current website’s performance. If users aren’t engaging, it could be a branding or product issue. If they’re having trouble navigating the website it might be a user experience (UX) problem. If they’re not converting at all (e.g., making purchases or requesting information), it could be an issue with your offer or callto-action.

and design with some enhancements. Simply add features like mobile responsiveness, personalized content recommendations, and e-commerce tools to keep your website relevant and easy to use. Changing the layout or design of the website too drastically might confuse or frustrate returning visitors who are accustomed to the old layout.

Guy Pineda

2. Design and User Experience (UX) - For design evaluation, our team pays attention to the website’s visual appeal, user interface (UI) design, and overall user experience (UX). We assess the design elements that make a website feel outdated and disconnected from its brand image: color schemes, fonts, imagery and overall layout. If anything feels old-fashioned or doesn’t match your brand anymore, it needs to be updated.

3. Content Relevance and SEO - If a website is starting from scratch, content relevance ensures that the website effectively communicates the brand message to its target audience right from the beginning. For an existing website, assessing content relevance allows us to identify areas where your messaging may need refining or updating to better resonate with your audience. In both cases, SEO optimization helps a website stay strong, relevant, and competitive.

When to Update Existing Website

2. Lack of SEO Optimization - There are times when clients express the immediate need for a new website, but upon thorough evaluation of their existing sites we often discover that a simple refresh might be the more fitting solution. It’s not uncommon for clients to underestimate the potential of their current website, especially when specific elements like design or functionality seem outdated.

But as we always tell them, it’s easier (and cheaper) to work with what they’ve already got. Updating a current website can save you both time and money, especially if there’s already a solid foundation.

If you have an SEO specialist on your team, you can assign them to help optimize existing pages. When you refresh your website with new content, improved structure and enhanced features you avoid sinking in search engine rankings.

as outdated technology may limit the website’s ability to implement new features or adapt to changes in online shopping trends. The best solution for this is to build a new one.

2. Changing Business Goals and Brand Identity - If your business has gone through big changes in its objectives, target audience or brand identity, go ahead and build a new website. Let’s say you’re rebranding to target a different demographic or shifting your focus toward sustainable jewelry. Then your website should align with these changes, too. It will be easier to update your messaging, imagery and user experience when you launch a new website.

Final Words

If you’re just getting started, begin with a basic website. You can gradually expand it as you get feedback from your customers. This way you can start small and make adjustments based on realworld interactions.

1. Outdated Design - While it may be tempting to revamp the website with an eye-catching new design, most visitors are primarily interested in finding specific information or completing specific tasks, such as finding your contact information or making a purchase. Keeping the design simple and functional can make it easier for them to accomplish their goals. Unfortunately, many jewelry websites have struggled with outdated features and poor mobile optimization which impacts their online visibility because Google won’t give them traffic.

Outdated features or compatibility issues with modern web browsers may also harm user experience and damage your brand’s reputation. Instead of completely rebuilding the website, I suggest retaining the existing structure

3. Failure to Adapt to Industry Trends - Your website should be able to change and adapt over time. If your website fails to adapt, you need to update it. Everyone should see their websites as a fluid concept rather than something rigid. If industry trends change, expect that customer preferences and expectations will also change. This is why you need to consistently research the latest developments in the industry and assess their relevance to your brand and audience. Update your website’s design, features and content to reflect these trends so it remains fresh, engaging and competitive.

When to Create a New Website

1. Poor Performance and Technical Limitations - Over time, as technology advances, older websites may struggle to keep up with the demands for speed, functionality and security. Poor performance when customers shop for jewelry, such as slow loading times or frequent crashes, can frustrate and drive them away from the site. So if you decide to improve your website’s performance by merely updating it instead of launching a new one, you might face new challenges

Honestly, all you really need is consistent engagement and maintenance to keep your website relevant and effective in achieving its goals. If you do that right, you get to update your content, perform technical maintenance, optimize user experience, enhance SEO performance and adapt to market trends.

If you are confused with your web presence and want to get a professional opinion, let us know. We would be happy to review your website and layout your options to either change or update your website.

Guy Pineda, CEO of Jewelry Store Marketers, has owned an award winning digital agency for the past 15 years and has been working in the jewelry industry for close to 30 years. Jewelry Store Marketers is niche agency that helps jewelry stores get more appointments and increase sales through Local SEO, Digital Marketing, Website Development, Social Media, Videos and more. Learn more at jewelrystoremarketers.com.

Harnessing the power of the Halo Effect

By George Prout

The year is 1976, and Japanese automobile manufacturer Toyo Kogyo is contemplating bankruptcy. Known as Mazda in the US, the company was the first successful adopter of rotary engine technology, but the oil crisis of 1973 has reoriented American buyers to cars with better fuel efficiency, causing relatively thirsty rotary-powered models to fall out of favor. Mazda’s little econobox cars simply aren’t selling, especially after Honda’s successful 1975 launch of a superior competitive product, the CVCC, pre-

cursor to the Civic. Toyo Kogyo needs a miracle. Fortunately, they are about to get one, in the form of a dazzling yet affordable sports car called the RX-7, providing an elegant and important example of the impact of a cognitive bias called the Halo Effect.

The term “Halo Effect” was originally coined by Columbia University comparative psychologist Edward Thorndike. Thorndike reported the existence of the effect in 1920 in a landmark paper entitled “A Constant Error in Psychological Ratings” (Journal of Applied Psychology) after conducting a series of experiments in

which commanding officers were asked to rate their subordinates on intelligence, physique, leadership, and character, without ever having actually spoken to them.

Thorndike noted a correlation between service members who were found to be taller and more attractive, and the extent to which their commanding officers rated them as more intelligent and as better soldiers. Thorndike determined from these experiments that people generalize from one outstanding trait to form a favorable view of an individual’s whole personality.

The psychological implications of this discovery are actually stunning, and subsequent studies confirm its application over a wide range of scenarios. Attractive people are generally considered to be more intelligent, more successful, and more popular. More attractive political candidates are perceived to be more knowledgeable, regardless of their actual knowledge level. And one study even found that test subjects were more lenient in sentencing attractive individuals than unattractive ones, even though precisely the same crime had been committed.

George Prout

By the 1960s, marketers began to discover that this effect translated not just with people, but also with products. And as brands increasingly began to be studied in terms of their “personalities”, based on consumer perceptions, the impact of the Halo Effect in consumer product marketing applications became a key consideration in the formulation of successful business strategies.

The Halo Effect increases brand loyalty, strengthens brand image and reputation, and translates into high brand equity. Successful companies use the Halo Effect to establish themselves as leaders in their industries, since when one product positively imprints in the minds of consumers, the success of that product infectiously affects other products. Ultimately, businesses can gain market share and increase profits thanks to the Halo Effect and can even protect their customer base from predation by competitors if they have an all-star product.

In the Mazda example, the launch of the RX-7 brought hordes of shoppers to dealer showrooms, but interestingly enough, not to buy it. The RX-7 was generally beyond the price range of these consumers, plus it lacked practicality. But the presence of the sports car in the overall Mazda product lineup suddenly conveyed cachet to its lower priced, less attractive siblings. By encouraging the purchase of the cheap econoboxes, the Mazda RX-7 not only kept Toyo Kogyo alive, it positioned the Mazda brand for the subsequent launch years later of the Mazda Miata, which with sales of more than a million units represents the most successful two-seater in automotive history.

With this knowledge in mind, how can you take advantage of the Halo Effect to propel your company’s sales to higher revenues and market share? What product line or other characteristic can you highlight for local consumers to drive up your brand cachet? What single characteristic can you focus on that will cause everything else that you sell to increase in perceived value?

I am currently working with

Please see Prout page 30

One Thermonuclear Unique Selling Proposition

Two Powerful Initiatives

Until now, Lab Grown Diamonds have been selling because a higher color, higher clarity, larger carat weight diamond could be bought at a more affordable price. But now, we’re changing the game, by taking advantage of aspects that only Lab Grown Diamonds can possess, and that only a Grower can provide.

Why just sell Lab, when you can Dominate it! Come grow with us.

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The Magic Box

By Joel McFadden

The magic box of technology has fascinated us since the first computerized systems rolled off the production line. This wonderful notion that this latest device, program, or gizmo is here to make our lives better and easier has led to a wave of invention that is still rolling in. Creative minds are always trying to come up with new ways to mechanize everything we do. Sometimes that leads to wonderful creations and other times… well, not so great.

When I was young, I worked

at a jewelry store in Alabama. The owner had a particular interest in acquiring all the latest technology. He had gone to a show and purchased some of the newest “magic boxes”. One of these latest and greatest was a water torch. It sounded good on paper, but in the shop, it was a horrible nightmare that spit water everywhere and burned the metals. Thankfully, that didn’t stay in the shop long.

Another magic box he was quite proud to have acquired was the $1,000 dollar box that detected loose gemstones. He dem-

onstrated how in just minutes he can hang a ring on the clip, place it on the box, flip the switch (after shuffling things around to get it plugged in) and moments later the light came on indicating the ring had loose gemstones! What a wonder of technology! Then I showed him how I can hold the ring to my ear and a little tap tap tap with my finger renders the familiar tick tick tick of loose stones. He returned the $1,000 dollar box the next day.

Some of the latest and greatest technology has been truly amazing and made a huge impact

on the jewelry industry. Laser technology has opened incredible opportunities and improvements in our craft. A skilled craftsman can use this tool to do intricate repairs and delicate detailed work that would be impossible or extremely time-consuming before this great invention. Even the less skilled craftsmen can use one to accomplish some tasks. However, like all great tools we have at our fingertips to use, the work it creates is only as good as the craftsman wielding the tool. An untrained or unskilled person can wreak havoc and create a lot

Joel McFadden

more damage and destruction to the jewelry they are supposedly working on than actually fixing anything.

The CAD system is another one of these great technology advancements. The ability to create amazing pictures to show the consumers the wonderful creations the artistic minds can conjure is a remarkable tool. It has quickly become such an intricate part of so many jewelry business that it is difficult to remember it is just a tool, and that render image is just a picture. A sketch artist may draw you a breathtakingly beautiful picture of the dream home you describe, but that doesn’t mean that artist knows the first thing about building that house. If you want that dream home image to become a reality, you need to find an architect who can make sure you have lights, plumbing and walls that won’t collapse.

An untrained or unskilled person wreaking havoc on jewelry pieces with a laser can ultimately cost the store owners a lot more money than the training or hiring a skilled person would have cost. The same could be said for CAD operators. Those “CAD Experts” who can create any design for just $35 may give you nothing more than the pretty picture you’re paying for. Their pictures may be genuinely amazing and beautiful, but is it just a picture? Can it actually be built?

A bench jeweler friend told me about their experience with one of these “$35 CAD Experts”. The store owner was delighted to have this inexpensive source for their CAD needs. They were going to save $100 on every project by cutting the CAD costs.

The first project done with this new CAD source arrives. The bench jeweler spends hours adding prongs to all the settings and metal to the paper thin shank. The store owner didn’t save anything on that project. It actually cost more than if the CAD had been done correctly to start with. Perhaps it was just an off day for the CAD expert?

The second project cost extra for the caster to correct the issues with the CAD because the model

Please see Joel page 32

Why Do We Use The Edge?

We have the comfort of knowing we have the best and most advanced point of sale system.

Just getting the data we need to make sure our inventory levels are where they need to be, doing our rapid re-orders of the things that are selling quickly. With a lot of skus in store it can be hard to identify those things, and The Edge does that for us. So we can make sure that a piece is in stock, or look at what price points are selling or what we have too many of.

We love the Pulse with The Edge Retail Academy. Being able to look at our key performance indicators and see where our store is. It’s nice to be able to benchmark ourselves against our peers in real  time.

-Scott and Audrey Stambaugh, Stambaugh Jewelers, Defiance, OH

Modern jewelry welders in today’s small studio

By Christopher Anderson

Jewelry welding technologies have been used in the industry for many years. Many of the first commercial welders were used to weld posts on the backs of earrings and other simple time saving operations.

Fast forward to today, more capable and advanced versions are now very affordable and accessible to small jewelry studios. Undoubtably, the boom in permanent jewelry has helped push this valuable tool into the spotlight.

There are a few types of jewelry welders currently on the market. However, for the sake of this article, we will focus on the pulse arc welder.

Pulse arc welders use a fusion method involving electrical energy to produce welds. Using a tungsten electrode, an arc is generated when the grounded workpiece touches the electrode. The generated arc creates a hightemperature pulse of plasma that can melt metal creating a fusion of metals. During this process, a filler wire can also be used to add material to a weld.

Welders of all types typically use an argon shielding gas to protect the welds from oxidation. Argon is an inert gas that is

heavier than oxygen. A little puff of argon pushes the oxygen out of the weld area and makes for a cleaner weld and helps eliminate porosity. Argon is to welding as flux is to soldering.

Why Not Solder?

Having used a welder around four years now, I’ve become familiar with its operation. I currently own an Orion 200i and use it for a wide range of jewelry and jewelry tool manufacturing operations.

Generally, when deciding on which joining process to use, I say, why not use both? Each process has its advantages depending on the job and both often shine when used together.

Welding offers the jeweler a unique technology that accentuates the processes we already use.

When looking into buying a welder, there are a few questions a business should ask themselves:

1) How will a welder fit into my workflow?

Using welding in conjunction with soldering

A welder can be used to tack (lightly attach) a complicated soldering operation into position, saving set up time and increasing the success of that operation. Combining solder and welding can yield very successful and

timely results. A welder can also be used to create complex jewelry forms that may otherwise be out of reach using just a solder join. (explained further down) Operations without solder where the welder can be the primary joining tool.

• Re-tipping prongs by adding a filler material of the same purity

• Chain making and repair

• General jewelry repairs

• Permanent jewelry

• Pinning hinges or kinetic jewelry

• Ring sizing

• Making head pins

• Joining operations near heat sensitive stones

• Adding material and filling holes

• And everyone’s favorite, closing jump rings

(2) How can I pay for it quickly?

Quality welders can cost anywhere from $1k to over $8k depending on the model, size, and power output. That can be quite an investment of money for a small business or hobby goldsmith.

In my own shop/studio I look at things from the perspective of versatility and cost effectiveness. I firmly believe that when you

purchase specialty tools you should be charging your customers specialty fees associated with using those tools.

Generally, I charge a $50 base welder fee on all repairs that utilize the welder. This includes turning on the welder and 10-15 ish welds. After 15 welds there is a reasonable sliding scale of price increase. The sliding scale considers the consumables that are continuing to be used as the welder is utilized. (There are always exceptions to this general rule).

Using a specialized fee structure let’s look at how you can pay off your welder.

Welder Cost: $2500

Shop Fee: $50

2500 divided by 50 = 50 Jobs

Job 51 now pays for consumables and results in profit for your business.

I don’t currently offer permanent jewelry, but it seems like getting 50 jobs during a few pop-up shows should be easy with the right marketing and venue selection, if you chose that route.

Complex Constructions Simplified

Order of operations are always an important consideration when constructing anything. Let’s simplify a complex looking necklace and break down how a welder can assist in enhancing your designs.

The general construction of this necklace isn’t very complex. The complexity occurs when it comes to the stone setting. In this case the bezel setting is inside the hollow form and suspended.

This piece was constructed from a sterling silver hemisphere (white) and a domed washer (red) of the same diameter.

The stone is a relatively durable Ellensburg blue agate, but I have used this technique with opals as well. *Side note, the fine silver foxtail chain was constructed using a welder as well.

The stone sits in a standard bezel and backplate (yellow) configuration (constructed by soldering). Once the stone setting was completed, a post was attached to the back of the backplate using solder. The stone is now set using a ball vice to hold the post.

Notice the bottom hemisphere (white) has a hole the same size as the post. This will eventually accept stone setting.

Once both domed components are constructed a welder is used to tack the hemisphere and the washer in four places. This is so when solder was flowed into the joint the two pieces wouldn’t misalign.

Now soldered, the stone setting post is inserted into the bottom hole. The welder is then utilized to tack the post to the bottom of the

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Wrong

Continued from page 1

and care about appearances - often seeking out status conscious brands to flaunt. So while they are ‘everywhere’, the top three destinations of late to find fake luxury watches are,

1. New York (20.22%)

2. Los Angeles (14.75%)

3. Chicago (11.48%)

Fake By the Numbers

Nearly a quarter of Ameri-

been conned into buying a fake watch. Rolex, the most frequently counterfeited watch, reports the pre-owned luxury watch purveyor Watchfinder & Co.

Where do fakes Originate?

Those keeping tabs, like Swiss Customs agents for example, cite that 40% of counterfeit watches originate in mainland China. But counterfeits are produced elsewhere like Turkey and even in the US. The Swiss Customs Service is obliged to confis-

cans (24%) have fallen victim to unknowingly purchasing counterfeit items. Specifically, 19% of all counterfeit goods are fake watches.

Here’s an eye opener: Almost one in ten Americans in total have

cate such goods and destroy them to prevent their re-sale. The same goes for the US when they uncover these bogus luxuries.

These goods arrive in the US via different entry points, specifically thought to have less

observant patrolling. But these locations are now savvy to such contraband. In July of 2023, US Customs and Border Patrol in Kentucky intercepted what they said was millions of dollars’ worth of counterfeit designer watches. The confiscations in-

ally sold for equally low prices. The core customer for that is the willing buyer who knows what they are getting on the cheap.

But there’s another sector to this nefarious business. Well made fake luxury watches look like the real deal - they have the

cluded Rolex, Cartier, and Omega labels.

The Numbers Grow

“If the 130 watches contained in nine shipments from Hong Kong were real,” CNN revealed, “they would have a suggested retail price of over $4.24 million,” according to the customs agency.

It was not an isolated incident either. In 2022, the CBP seized $8 million worth of illegal goods. CNN also reports, “During the previous fiscal year, the agency said it captured 153,810 counterfeit watches that would have had an estimated value of over $596 million if they were genuine.” The figures are staggering, and these stories are repeated in other cities across the country - like Los Angeles, and even Indianapolis.

Dividing up Counterfeits

According to Watchfinder, “Per every Swiss watch made, the fake watch industry is putting out two, totaling 40m fake watches made every year - double the Swiss production. That’s enough to pull in a whopping $1b in profit.”

One might see this fake watch market as being two-tiered. The lower quality timepieces are usu-

the expected brand paraphernalia, he points out. “They make fake boxes and booklets. Of course they can’t duplicate things exactly, but scary-close,” he confirms.

But he also thinks public awareness is on the rise thanks in part to social media.

“Some of these companies have machines that make fake warranty cards with serial numbers on them and fake hang tags. These items are 99% perfect but there are little teeny tiny differences that you can tell what’s a clone, fake or counterfeit.”

“When it comes to which is the worst fake watch - it really depends,” Green confides. “You mean fake like OMG that is so fake, so easy to tell, or do you mean one an expert would be duped [into believing] it’s real after holding it in their hands and looking at it with a loupe?”

heft of a true luxury timepiece. Their mechanisms are close duplicates to those in the authentic versions. And they cost a lot. The customer is more frequently an unsuspecting buyer in this scenario.

“The most accurate fakes are still far from cheap,” Watchfinder insists, “costing many hundreds and sometimes even thousands of dollars.” But there’s an important difference between those and the real McCoy. All the production money is spent on the outside of the watch. “The most complex part requiring the greatest skilled labor to make, the movement, is still a long way off [from} the originals.”

Dallas based Time Delay provides pre-owned Rolex watches at wholesale to members of the trade. Their unique vantage point provides an up-close observation of trends within the counterfeit business. Robert Loving, VP sales for pre-owned explains, “Many jewelers send us watches for repair or purchase and they or their clients have no idea they are not original.” Some of the counterfeits were pretty convincing. “The first good fake was back in 2016 when a regular client showed me the watch at the Atlanta Show. He said his ‘Rolex’ guy checked it out and I made an offer.” It seemed straightforward but proved to be a fake. “He sent the watch to us in a couple of weeks and I sent a check promptly. From that day, we have had our staff of watchmakers open each watch before I ever see them for purchase.”

Matthew Green, president of Boca Raton based Matthew Green Jewelers believes there are more fake watches now than ever. It’s very scary when these counterfeit watch makers also create

The whole gamut is out there, Green says. “Datejust 2 in steel, Milgauss, GMT ceramic bezel models and Daytona Panda and Submariners are cloned the most,” according to this expert.

Luxury pre-owned watch wholesaler, Thomas Mastrippolito, owner of Beloved Watch, sees more aftermarket components than “completely fake watches” in his business, he tells us. “For instance, it may be an original case and movement with an aftermarket bracelet,” he finds. Many times sellers do not know an original bracelet from an aftermarket, Mastrippolito says. “A lot of what I do is help stores authenticate before purchasing over-the-counter trades.” He believes, “if you have a passionate watch dealer and collector on your team, it shouldn’t be a problem.”

The problem is complex, merchants agree. So, is there anything that can be done to reduce the proliferation of these interlopers into the legitimate luxury timepiece sector?

Time Delay’s Loving says “I’m not sure there is a fix to this problem. The fakes are getting better and better.” There are clues to recognizing a well done counterfeit timepiece, Loving offers. “The tell-tale sign of spotting a fake often lies down deep in the movement where only a highly trained technician can spot them.”

Just Don’t Buy

What about curbing the importation of fakes before they reach the US? “The industry is at a bit of a loss as to what to do,” claims Watchfinder. “It can’t stop the production, it can’t stop the purchase or the shipment, it can try to stop the import - although many fake watches arrive in the country disguised within other products - but ultimately it’s a bit stuck.”

Oyster Perpetual. Image Watchfinders & Co.

Canal Street, New York City. Image Ipining

Hong Kong counterfeit designer. Image South China Morning Post

For every love story

By Mia Katrin

Your clients seek jewelry that reflects their unique personality, passions and relationships. Customized pieces are “must-haves” for gifts or self-purchasers.

Throughout the ages jewelry has been used to convey love, status and personal expression. People want to make their jewelry their own - to celebrate their individuality. Personalization adds power. Today, customized pieces, including fresh new trends, inspire clients to create one-of-akind treasures.

Ancient civilizations engraved symbols, names and mo-

Let’s Get Personal!

The power of personalization

tifs onto their prized possessions. Egyptian pharaohs included amulets such as cartouches personalized with their name in hieroglyphs in their funerary rites, so these precious ornaments would travel with them in the hereafter. Talismans - charms, heirlooms and tokens of affection - preserved stories for generations.

Hot Trends in Personalized Jewelry:

• Memory Capsules: A modern version of the locket, memory capsules are a fresh take. Contemporary innovative designs allow wearers to insert small items, such as photos, notes, or even a lock of hair, into their jewelry,

immortalizing and celebrating their treasured heirlooms.

• Sports and Championship Jewelry: Sports fans - sports jewelry is on trend! From pendants

with team logos to rings with player numbers, sports enthusiasts can proudly display their loyalty and passion. High-end

Commemorative sports rings are hot - think Super Bowl jewelry.

commemorative championship pieces are ultimate status symbols. (Think Super Bowl rings)

• Fingerprint Jewelry: What’s more personal than your fingerprint? Fingerprint jewelry, capturing your fingerprint and transforming it into a wearable pendant or charm, creates an inti-

mate connection with loved ones - or expression of yourself, providing a unique keepsake.

• “Sun Sign” Jewelry: For many, astrology captures the imagination. From the universally treasured birthstone or mother’s rings to contemporary necklaces featuring zodiac constellation patterns or Indian “jyotish” jewelry, astrological jewelry appeals to our spiritual core.

• Repurposed treasures: Does your customer have inherited estate pieces with valuable gold, diamonds or gems? What can be more personal than repurposing these cherished elements into a captivating new design? And recycling is environmentally conscious as well!

• Names and Initials: Names and initials add power. Look for multistrand delicate layered neck-

What’s more personal than your initials? Jane Basch diamond pendant.

laces, single chains with initials of children, and bold diamond initial pendants.

Please see Mia page 26

Mia Katrin

Dallas Prince’s Memory Capsulea fresh take on the classic locket.

Fingerprint jewelry is hot.

back on the fast track!

You spoke and we listened. We’ve been working hard to improve our delivery. We are focused on the items you need the most so we don’t have to compromise our industry leading quality and customer service.

We identified our core jewelry products and built stock of our most popular sizes and metals. We also prioritized our standard mill alloys to ensure they remain on the fast track.

QUICK ship GET IT FAST

Look for the GET IT FAST icon to determine a stock versus a made to order item.

We continue to offer thousands of made to order products and 38 specialty mill alloys with longer but reliable lead times. If you don’t see something you need, we will work with you on a solution.

FASTER LEAD TIMES FOR MILL PRODUCTS

Grain, solder and wire foot pieces in standard metals ship same or next day. Other mill products in standard metals (14KW, 14KY, 18KY, 18K Royal and STR) ship in 4 business days.

JEWELRY ITEMS ARE IN STOCK

Settings and shanks in standard metals and sizes are in stock and ready to ship! Earrings and solitaires can be assembled in 5 days from stock components.

MADE TO ORDER MILL AND JEWELRY ITEMS will ship in less than 15 business days.

Let us earn back your business with our improved delivery times.

By Chuck Koehler

The Retailer’s Perspective That Jewelers Mutual Email…

If you’re a policyholder with Jewelers Mutual, you were recently informed about a major change to your policy regarding changes in their shipping coverage.

This is going to be a difficult column to write because the situation is very complicated. But I will try my hardest to let everyone know what happened to bring about this change, and what the future might hold for all of us.

It all started with this email:

Hi Chuck,

Due to recent trends in the shipping landscape and unfavorable loss trends for insurance business, USPS® shipping coverages (Registered Mail and Priority Mail® Express) will be removed from all Jewelers Block and Jewelers Standard policies due for renewal starting April 15, 2024.

If your policy contains FedEx® or UPS® coverage, your limits remain the same but will be subject to the use of JM® Shipping Solution (or another approved provider*).

We appreciate that this

change impacts your business and understand that quality and reliable shipping coverage is critical.

The best option is to transition to JM Shipping Solution. Doing so provides comprehensive benefits to your business and safeguards your existing policy from potential loss-related premium increases.

As someone who does trade work, and ships almost exclusively via the post office, this email certainly got my attention. I picked up the phone and called my Jewelers Mutual agent. I was surprised when he told me he’d only had a few phone calls about the situation. Then he clarified and said everyone else had emailed him since that was how they had received the news.

My first question was, “What other insurance companies are out there that offer shipping insurance?” Since my policy renews in May, I was told that changes would not take place on policies until they were up for renewal. But, since May is right around the corner, if I’m forced

to make a major change in my business insurance, I need to start planning now. A few days later, this email showed up.

Hi Chuck,

We understand you may have questions regarding the upcoming shipping coverage changes for Jewelers Mutual® Jewelers Block/Standard policies. We are reaching out to bring additional clarification to help understand and navigate this change.

We are making changes to USPS® Registered Mail and Priority Mail® Express shipping coverages that impact Jewelers Mutual’s Jewelers Block and Jewelers Standard policies that renew on or after April 15, 2024. There is no need to worry about immediate coverage gaps or changes.

If you prefer to keep USPS shipping coverage on your Jewelers Block/Standard policy at renewal, please contact your agent. You will be asked to use JM® Shipping Solution.

In order to try and bring some clarity to this issue, I had lengthy conversations with two of the top executives at Jewelers Mutual; Mike Alexander, the Chief Operating Officer, and Carrie Volp, the Vice President, of Commercial Lines Operations.

In a nutshell, they wanted everyone to know that Jewelers Mutual is not exiting shipping. They’ve got options and solutions to offer to you, and that the driver of this policy change is unprecedented losses.

“You can’t control bad guys, so you’ve got to set up different options that you can control.”

Mike told me, “We can’t afford to not know anymore what is being shipped, and where it is being shipped, and to not be able to track it because the losses are unprecedented.”

If your policy is up for renewal soon, contact your insur-

ance agent and start the conversation during your normal renewal process. In 2018, Jewelers Mutual set up a shipping platform called JM Shipping Solution. In order for them to be able to get a handle on the problem, you’re going to need to ship all of your packages through that platform, or other approved shipping platforms. JM Shipping Solution allows Jewelers Mutual to closely monitor all shipments for on-time arrival or exceptions.

If you’re using a 3rd party shipper, such as Parcel Pro, you might be able to continue what you’re doing, but get with your agent and discuss it, as this policy change will mostly affect people that are not using the JM Shipping Solution.

You can still use USPS through the platform, but certain zip codes and destinations may be restricted in terms of value per shipment or the packaging type used. This is in an effort to protect shipments from loss and guide shippers in the direction of a safer option for those destinations. When I asked what those places were, I was told; “It’s bad everywhere, but most metro urban areas are a problem and hot spots keep popping up.”

Before my discussion with Mike and his team, they had already looked up my account in their system. Because I use their JM Shipping Solution, they could see several years’ worth of my shipping records. For me, my solution was quick and painless. They told me that I was a specific case, but they also let me know that so are all of their policy holders, and all cases will be handled on a one-off basis.

When I started doing my research into this, I looked hard at the shipping options on their platform between the big three carriers, USPS, Fed Ex, and UPS.

Professional Bench Jeweler to the Trade

When your company is in need of a reliable

And to be honest, it was the first time since I’ve had their coverage that I really paid much attention to my shipping coverage. The post office averaged about $28 per shipment, while the other two were between $70 and $80. It was here that I noticed that I had zero block coverage on the latter two carriers and all of the insurance I was buying was outside of my policy. Huh? It was also here that I learned about Specified vs. Unspecified policy endorsements from Carrie Volp.

Because the insurance industry is highly regulated, the only carrier that Jewelers Mutual has filed and approved from an insurance standpoint is USPS. Specified carriers, other than USPS, need to be individually endorsed on your policy. The other carriers are not automatically on your block policy, but can be added for a fee. Which is why you need to get with your agent now to figure out if you need to add that endorsement or not.

Mike and Carrie wanted me to emphasize to the industry this one important point: “We are dedicated to finding shipping solutions to serve our customers as well as providing underwriting flexibility to best meet their needs. We are a 110 year old company and we’re doing everything in our power to make sure that our products are viable for the next 110 years.”

Jewelers Mutual is taking this situation seriously and trying to get out ahead of it. Yes, that initial email was a little scary, but I’m feeling better now that I know more about the problem, and my personal situation has been resolved to my satisfaction. If your policy is nearing renewal, call your agent and start the process to get your situation solved to your satisfaction as well.

Chuck is the owner of Anthony Jewelers in Nashville, TN. Chuck also owns CMK Co., a wholesale trade shop that specializes in custom jewelry and repair services to the jewelry industry nationwide. If you would like to contact Chuck or need a speaker or instructor for your next conference/event he can be reached at 615-354-6361, www.CMKcompany.com or send e-mail to info@ southernjewelrynews.com.

Chuck Koehler

IgI

Continued from page 1

Interactive Online Courses

IGI offers eLearning courses for diamonds and colored stones that teach gemological fundamentals while emphasizing modern information jewelry buyers are most interested in. Pollard mentions that these are the first of many more courses, with an unlimited series of topics yet to explore.

“Courses are accessible, take less than 45 minutes to complete, and emphasize talking points useful for discussing diamonds and gemstones with clients at the sales counter today,” tells Pollard.

“The format is interactive and keeps learners engaged by letting them make choices. Learners answer questions throughout the course, ensuring they understand the material before advancing.

After passing a final quiz, they receive a Certificate of Completion

The current diamond series covers important facts about natural and lab-grown diamonds, including a comprehensive understanding of the 4Cs of diamonds; insights into the origin and journey of natural diamonds; and the creation and characteristics of lab-grown diamonds.

The colored stone program looks at gemstone essentials; The Big Three (ruby, sapphire, emerald); information on other popular gemstones and pearls; and sales training specific to the category.

and a practical course summary.”

Tapping IGI Expertise

To maximize a sales team’s time on task, Pollard says jewelry retailers and brands can host IGI experts for a hands-on gemological workshop after their sales team has completed an online course.

tion, an interactive colored stones tutorial.

Broad Range of Services

proof security sealed reports for diamonds and colored stones.

The exciting thing about IGI, Pollard finds, is the organization’s ability to customize important information, and translate it for gem and jewelry professionals and enthusiasts to understand and apply in real time. “IGI has been a pioneer in developing products adapted to manufacturers, retailers and consumers’ expectations.”

This allows sales associates to apply the knowledge freshly gained, while IGI instructors can “up-skill” their techniques at the counter, says Pollard, from traditional tweezing and louping to expert 4Cs assessment. “Inperson seminars, taught by IGI experts, offer maximum impact and lasting effects, encouraging sales staff to use these techniques at point of sale.”

IGI boasts many firsts: first gemstone grading laboratory to issue Jewelry Identification Reports; first institute to provide rough diamond courses for professionals; first to analyze and issue grading reports for gem-quality lab grown diamonds; first to issue co-branded grading reports with leading jewelry brands; first to offer a cut grading system for fancy shaped diamonds; and first gem lab to commit to carbon neutrality.

Moreover, jewelers can schedule informative, interactive, and customizable webinars with IGI expert gemologists or instructors on any topic. These services are not only available to educate jewelry sales staff, but also for more immersive VIP events for top jewelry clients.

Pollard, a board certified educator with more than 20 years of teaching experience, has designed and delivered sales training on a range of gemological topics for industry professionals on three continents. He finds demand up since COVID from luxury brands and jewelers to find more effective ways of educating their sales staff.

IGI plans to offer its eLearning courses in multiple languages. The Institute also offers consumer education on its website, including a variety of articles and videos about diamonds and how to assess them, and its latest addi-

While acting globally, IGI thinks locally, providing customized, world-class solutions in all of the many locations it serves. Pollard cites courses developed in Italy at IGI Schools of Gemology, for example, to cover extremely complex topics like working with coral, amber, and other organic gemstones used in niche and high jewelry collections.

Extremely active in all sectors of the diamond and jewelry industry worldwide since its inception, IGI designs all of its expert services to facilitate transparency, protection and added value for buyers and sellers alike. “We’ve got a lot of different tools on our Swiss Army knife,” Pollard describes of the diversity and usefulness of IGI offerings for jewelers.

Acquired last year by Blackstone, the world’s largest alterna-

Instructor Ilan Taché in class at School of Gemology in Antwerp. tive asset manager, IGI “is committed to building confidence and trust in our industry by getting even closer to the end-consumer and providing comprehensive education to professionals and consumers alike,” says CEO Tehmasp Printer.

Pollard, who joined the company in his current role two years ago, has worked with IGI as a consultant over the years since 2006. He recalls first visiting IGI North America in NYC, describing it as mind expanding.

“It’s a much larger operation than many understand it to be,” says Pollard. “Jewelers are surprised to learn that IGI instructs a wider variety of courses, provides a wider variety of services, and grades a wider variety of gemstones and jewelry in more locations around the world than any other gemological organization.”

Just to highlight some of its accomplishments in the last half a century, IGI developed breakthrough photoluminescence spectrometer technology capable of identifying HPHT processed diamonds; innovative systems for the screening and grading of small diamonds; and tamper

Mukesh Mehta, senior managing director for Blackstone stated in a press release last May that the funds’ manager is bringing to bear its winning track record in operations and technological capabilities “to help IGI expand its global footprint.” Haide Hong, senior managing director of Blackstone finds IGI “well-positioned to benefit from the increasing popularity of gemology.”

Keep an eye on this space, as Pollard mentions plans for IGI to open a School of Gemology in New York City in 2025.

For more information on the organization and its many services, visit IGI at the upcoming JCK Las Vegas Show, May 31 to June 3, Booth #13058, or online at www.igi.org.

Busy IGI Lab in New York City.

Hands-on training in an IGI workshop.

Example of eLearning page on tablet.

MIA

Continued from page 20

Furry Friends: The love for pets knows no bounds. Pet owners can now adorn themselves - and their pets - with

pendants, charms, and tags that showcase their pet’s name, paw print, breed, or even gemstones to enhance qualities such as protection, healing or harmony.

For retailers, offering personalized pieces is a game-chang-

er. By allowing customers to express their individuality, retailers can forge deeper connections, enhancing customer loyalty. Personalized jewelry also presents a lucrative avenue for upselling and cross-selling, as customers invest in matching sets or additional personalized accessories.

Capturing hearts, expressing

our unique essence, and preserving cherished memories - customized jewelry has withstood the test of time. From memory capsules to sports jewelry, fingerprint designs to pet jewelry, the latest trends offer universal appeal. “Get Personal!” Capture the power of personalization today!

Mia Katrin is an award-winning jewelry designer featured in over 100 stores nationally. To become a Jewel Couture LLC retailer, contact www.jeweljewel. com, 828-406-1105 or mia@jeweljewel.com. A recognized industry spokesperson, Mia also writes for several jewelry magazines and often is invited to speak at major national trade events. She recently launched a new marketing agency to help you sell online, TheJewelersMarketer.com.

JArrETT

Continued from page 10

upon its light performance. Focus on the depth of the stone which of course measures the diamond’s height in millimeters from its table to its culet. A few moments spent discussing this with your shopper broadens their understanding of light performance, excellent cuts and so much more.

Having that fresh conversation with your customer opens up a greater understanding of many elements to diamond shoppingand they’ll value it and you.

Award winning trade journalist and gemologist Diana Jarrett is a Registered Master Valuer Appraiser and a member of the Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers (AIJV). She’s a popular speaker at conferences and trade shows. Jarrett writes for trade and consumer publications, online outlets, her blog: Color-n-Ice, and www.jewelrywebsitedesigners.com. Contact her at diana@dianajarrett.com, visit her website at www.dianajarrett.com, and follow her on Facebook and Twitter (Loupey).

WELDErS

Continued from page 14

hemisphere. Once firmly welded, the excess was removed using a flush cutter. The remainder of the post was then blended into the hemisphere using the welder to make a seamless joint.

The finished technique should yield a result like this.

Now that advanced welding technology is more accessible to our industry, we should be open to how it can help our businesses profit and thrive.

As the owner of Lion Punch Forge, Chris turned his maker side hustles into a fast-growing jewelry tool and supply business after retiring from 21 years in public safety. As a goldsmith himself he strives to educate, invent, and manufacture tools that increase productivity and streamline the making processes.

•

Crystal Pet Love Pendant

Perfect add-on at checkout - pet jewelry.

Design

50+ Years Experience

Mentor Class Jeweler

Creator of the Tradeshows Bench Jewelers Challenge

Events

Registration opens for PJX 2024

Serving Our Wholesale Clients

Permanent jewelry educational/networking event

CAD, High-End Setting, Full Custom Services, Consultation Services & Mentor Programs

Registration is now open for the 2024 edition of PJX: The Permanent Jewelry Expo. The conference will take place June 4 - 6, 2024 at Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, in Las Vegas, NV.

JMDJewelry.com

(984) 212-2217

PJX is the only high-energy educational and networking event for permanent jewelry artists and business owners. The conference is home to must-have education, invaluable connections, and

goal-driven motivation. Plus, PJX boasts the largest marketplace for chain, jump rings, charms, findings, training, tools, welders, and business services, all focused on the permanent jewelry business.

MentorJeweler@gmail.com

1000 Novus Lane Unit 534 Chapel Hill NC 27514

PJX is the only conference that brings permanent jewelry artists together, providing education, networking, and vendor connections together in one location, all designed to help your business succeed.

Joel McFadden Design

Serving Our Wholesale Clients CAD, High-End Setting, Full Custom Services, Consultation Services & Mentor Programs

JMDJewelry.com

(984) 212-2217

PJX is overseen by an advisory committee of permanent jewelry business owners and managed and organized by Sunstone Welders.

instructors ready to share everything they know.

A Registration Fee Packed with Benefits

Education, training, networking, learning, cocktail reception, and lots of food. Registration includes the following:

• Access to all educational classes: Choose from as many as 25 different classes.

• Entry to the PJ Marketplace: Connect with key suppliers

Joel McFadden Design

Permanent Jewelry Classes: The Only Conference Dedicated to Permanent Jewelry Learning

• Official Certificate of Attendance: You’ll receive an official certificate you can display with pride

50+ Years Experience Mentor Class Jeweler

Creator of the Tradeshows Bench Jewelers Challenge

45 “How-to” classes that will grow your permanent jewelry business and 23 experienced

• Welcome cocktail reception for networking: Start PJX with cocktails, food, and fun - and more food

• Delicious lunch buffet on Wednesday and Thursday

Serving Our Wholesale Clients CAD, High-End Setting, Full Custom Services, Consultation Services & Mentor Programs

• PJX reserved pool cabana: Fun in the sun at the PJX cabana

JMDJewelry.com

(984) 212-2217

MentorJeweler@gmail.com

1000 Novus Lane Unit 534 Chapel Hill NC 27514

(for hotel guests only)

• Awesome swag: Take home and show off your official PJX gear

For a full list of instructors and courses and to register for PJX 2024 visit sunstone.regfox. com/pj-expo-2024.

4x5

2x2

2x4

Industry Events

Flo Rida to headline JCK Rocks 2024 at Tao Beach & Tao Nightclub

(NORWALK, Conn.) -

JCK, the highly anticipated Las Vegas tradeshow experience, operated by RX, is thrilled to announce that hip-hop artist, singer and songwriter, Flo Rida, is the 2024 headlining entertainment for the iconic JCK Rocks. This year JCK Rocks heads back to the beach, taking place at Tao Beach on Sunday night, June 2. Doors will open at 9:00 pm at Tao Beach and Tao Nightclub located within The Venetian Hotel.

Flo Rida, known for his chart-topping hits such as “Low [Apple Bottom Jeans]”, “My House”, and “Club Can’t Handle Me”, has been nominated for multiple GRAMMY awards and headlined sold-out shows globally. His electrifying energy is set to create an unforgettable experience for attendees.

“We are very excited to bring JCK Rocks back to the beach at Tao and with such an exciting headliner! This year’s JCK Rocks

will bring us all back to the JCK concert event we all know and love and will be talking about for years to come,” says Sarin Bachmann, Group Vice President for the RX jewelry portfolio and event leader for JCK. “JCK Rocks continues to be an anticipated, not-to-bemissed event where the industry comes together to celebrate the success, hard work and connections made during JCK. It’s going down for real!”

JCK Rocks will take place immediately following the annual Facets, An Evening Benefiting Jewelers for Children on Sunday, June 2, and those attending Facets will have an additional surprise experience guiding all from the Facets ballroom to Tao Beach.

All JCK badge holders are invited to attend JCK Rocks at Tao Beach until the venue reaches capacity. Sponsors of JCK Rocks will have VIP sections and a priority entrance. Contact a JCK Sales Representative to explore

cabana and upgrade options, providing your customers with the ultimate VIP experience at JCK Rocks. Additionally, Tao Nightclub will have expanded capacity, featuring a live stream of the beach performance and music on screens within the nightclub.

JCK: Friday, May 31 - Monday, June 3, 2024

Luxury: Wednesday, May 29 - Monday, June 3, By Invitation Only May 29 & May 30

Select Events and Features

Opening on Thursday, May 30: NEW for 2024: The Hong Kong Pavilion, Moving to the Level 1 Ballrooms

NEW for 2024: The Sustainability Summit at JCK, Level 3 GEMS Featuring AGTA, Level 2

JCK Talks, Level 1, Venetian Meeting Rooms 101 and 102 To register, book hotels or for more information, visit jckonline. com.

Jewelers of America announces 2024 GEM

Award winners

(NEW YORK) - Jewelers of America (JA) and the GEM Awards Committee announced the winners of the 22nd annual GEM Awards that took place Fri-

presented with a Special Recognition Award and Cynthia Erivo was the recipient of the GEM Award for Jewelry Style. The winners in the categories of Jewelry Design,

day, March 8, 2024 at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City. Susan M. Jacques, President and CEO of GIA, was the recipient of the GEM Award for Lifetime Achievement. Tiffany & Co. was

Media Excellence and Retail Excellence were revealed live during the event.

Marla Aaron won the GEM Award for Jewelry Design. The

Please see GEM page 32

Furry Friends on the Job! FF

Do you have a furry friend that helps out in your store? Tell us about it and send a picture to bill@southernjewelrynews.com.

Have you ever seen anything as cute as Daisy? Daisy is a Blonde Long Haired Miniature Dachshund. She goes to work every day at Conrad Jewelry Company in Palm Harbor, Florida with her human Sarah Conrad, head of sales and daughter of the owner of Conrad Jewelry. The perfect greeter, Daisy loves everyone she meets and everyone loves her stunning green eyes. When not charming the customers, Daisy spends her time playing with her toys, showing off her new tricks and napping.

Say hello to Fred! Fred, a just under 1-year-old Standard Poodle, is the top salesman at Molinelli’s Jewelers in Pocatello, Idaho. He was being trained to be a service dog for one of Molinelli’s customers. Sadly, the customer is dying of cancer and needed a home for him.

Fortunately for Fred, the good folks at Molinelli’s were thrilled to take him in and add him to the team. Great decision - everyone loves him! Fred is great with the customers and staff, loves flirting with the ladies and especially likes children.

ProUT

Continued from page 8

an elite group of independent jewelers on a project in which by turning them into diamond growers with their own designated growing chambers, we’re spotlighting a Unique Selling Proposition (USP) that we believe can produce a significant Halo Effect.

And by expanding growing benefits like Made to Order Diamonds and lab grown diamond tracking provenance initiatives, I’m hoping to create the same kind of outcome that Mazda dealers experienced as a result of having a gorgeous sports car in their local ads and on their showroom floor.

The lab grown diamond dis-

ruption is producing a unique moment in the history of the jewelry business. Deploy the Halo Effect properly, and you’re likely to ride it to uncharted levels of sales and profitability.

Class Dismissed!

George Prout is a 50-year veteran in the jewelry business, having sold his first engagement ring as a 17 year-old sales associate working at Kay Jewelers in 1974. Since then he has worked for companies that rose to top three status nationally in sales volume to Independent Jewelry stores. Currently he is President of JB Bhanderi, the world’s largest CVD grower and maker of the Surreal Diamond brand. He can be reached at george@surrealdiamond.com.

FALL

August

Dedicated to Helping our Community Thrive. Two unique Trade Shows. Meaningful Education. Year-round Resources. Unmatched Southern Hospitality. Fresh

atlantajewelryshow.com

SPRING

FALL

August 23-25,

#ATLjewelryshow

GN Diamond introduces Natural Diamond Pendant Program

The diamond layered look is hot!

As the market sees a large growth in stackable jewelry and classic, stackable tennis bracelets, GN Diamond has just launched a new line of stackable, natural diamond solitaire pendants.

The solitaire pendants are featured in a 14K white gold 18” chain with a jump ring at 16”. The centered diamond is available in 6 different sizes: .25 ct, .33 ct, .50 ct, .75 ct, 1.0 ct. The diamonds range from G-I color and SI3I1 clarity. Larger sizes, different qualities, and yellow gold chains are also available by request. The classic layered look is elegant and timeless.

Other popular and classic natural, diamond jewelry programs by GN include diamond studs from .25 ctw - 1.50 ctw, 5 stone wedding bands from .50 ctw - 2.50 ctw, and diamond tennis bracelets in 2 ctw, 3 ctw, and 5 ctw.

“GN Diamond tries to accommodate and listen to the needs of our valued, retail customers,” said

gEM

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award was presented by the 2023 GEM Award for Jewelry Design winner, Anita Ko. The other nominees in the category were Marie Lichtenberg and Jean Prounis.

The GEM Award for Media Excellence went to Tanya Dukes. The other nominees were Milena Lazazzera Martins Alexandre and Alexis Wolfe. The GEM Award was presented by the 2023 winner in the category, Michelle Graff.

Ben Bridge Jeweler won the GEM Award for Retail Excellence, and the award was accepted on stage by their President & CEO Lisa Bridge. The other nominees were Irene Neuwirth and Ylang23. The award was presented by 2023 GEM Award for

e Cargo Hold unveils a

14K Italian Gold Collection: Cargo Gold

Asaf Herskovitz, GN Diamond CEO. “We offer these programs in a variety of price points and qualities with overnight shipping and terms available.”

For more information, call the GN Diamond sales department at 800-724-8810, email sales@gndiamond.com or visit, 24/7, gndiamond.com.

Retail Excellence winners Jennifer Gandia and Christina Gandia Gambale of Greenwich St. Jewelers.

Tiffany & Co. was presented with a Special Recognition Award for their historic and newly transformed flagship on 57th Street and Fifth Avenue, now known as “The Landmark”, that reintroduces the world to a new Tiffany & Co. The award was accepted by Tiffany & Co President & CEOAmericas Christopher Kilaniotis. It was presented by Aimee Song.

Cynthia Erivo lit up the GEM Awards Stage in her iconic jewelry style as she was presented with the GEM Award for Jewelry Style. “I know that jewelry for a lot of people is simply a sparkly luxury, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Sometimes we want to be sparkly and luxurious, but

(CHARLESTON, S.C.) - The Cargo Hold, Inc., a leading wholesale jewelry source since 1972, has announced the launch of its latest collection - Cargo Gold. These new designs provide retailers with high-quality 14K Italian gold at an attractive price. You may know The Cargo Hold, Inc., as a superior sterling silver and exceptional customer service company, but they are pleased to now offer the same level of excellence in 14K gold.

“Our Italian gold designs showcase the creative ability of Italian goldsmiths and demonstrate their ability to marry beauty and value” said Bob Glenn, co-founder, The Cargo Hold.

Key features of Cargo Gold:

• High-quality 14K Italian gold at an affordable cost.

• Offering both bold and delicate styles in 14K gold to appeal to every customer.

• Gold products from a trusted and established wholesaler.

Benefits for B2B clients:

• The 14K Cargo Gold provides retailers with a higher selling point while being affordable for most of their customers.

The Cargo Gold collection premiered at the Atlanta Jewelry Show in March. For more information call 800-845-6964 or visit www.cargoholdinc.com.

what I get from every piece I own is a time capsule, a moment crystalized, a conversation waiting to be had, a connection yearning to be made, a memory begging never to be forgotten, a power source - and what has struck me in this bejeweled journey, is that I have also been able to connect with some of the most incredible women I have ever met, some who have become like sisters,” said Cynthia Erivo. The award was presented by her friend Ben Platt.

The evening concluded with the presentation of the GEM Award for Lifetime Achievement to Susan M. Jacques, president & CEO of GIA. Susan received a standing ovation and gave a heartwarming speech, saying, “I have been truly blessed to have had two dream jobs - at Borsheims and now at GIA - in an industry that I am passionate about, working with incredible teams of committed and dedicated colleagues - this is truly a dream come true.”

The award was presented by Anna Martin.

For more information on GEM Awards or to view photos from the 2024 GEM Awards visit www.jewelers.org/gemawards.

JoEL

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was not valid enough that it could even be grown. The CAD had to be completely rebuilt. Again it cost quite a bit more time and money for that $35 picture.

One more chance for such an inexpensive CAD expert? Project three arrives at the bench. Time to clean up the casting and set the stones! Oh, wait, first all the settings have to be altered because none of them actually fit the stones. Again, more time and money spent paying the bench jeweler to fix what should have been done correctly in the CAD.

The extra time spent correcting issues with the CADs caused some projects to run late. Customers are unhappy with the delays. The store owner is unhappy with the extra costs to correct issues. It seems the $35 CAD Expert is just selling $35 pictures.

Store owners seem to always be looking for the magic box that saves them from needing to hire a skilled craftsman. In the end, cutting corners cost the store a lot more money. Some store owners

think the magic CAD box does everything correctly and automatically for them. They don’t realize it is just another tool and how beneficial it is to your business is a product of the operator’s skill level and knowledge.

In the end it is the craftmanship, skill and knowledge that is what our trade is about. The greatest “Magic Box” that will truly prove to be the most profitable and successful asset to your business is great employees.

Custom guru Joel McFadden is the owner of Joel McFadden Designs in Chapel Hill, NC. He developed pricing for custom jewelry and repairs for the IJO Prototype Store, opened a business which became a million-dollar store focusing on custom, was named MJSA’s first Mentor Jeweler, was the first director of the Council of Custom Jewelers, and is the creator of the Bench Jewelers Challenge. He is an industry writer and speaks at events. Available for CAD work, stone setting, and complete custom pieces for the trade. Contact Joel at MentorJeweler@gmail.com, 984-212-2217, JMDJewelry.com, Facebook and YouTube.

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Subject Line: Florida Jewelry Store

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Subject Line: Arizona

Have you ever thought of relocating to South Florida? Or opening a second location?

We are an established Jewelry Store located in NW Broward County, at this location 12 years within a growing community of wealthy young professionals. 1600sq ft store in a well established 100% occupied shopping center. Over 4400 customers in our data base. For more information send inquiries to Scottcook33473@gmail.com

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