TTNQ DUE NORTH

JOURNEY FROM RAINFOREST TO REEF DISCOVER NATURAL TREASURES TASTE THE BOUNTY OF THE TROPICS

DUE NORTH YOUR GUIDE TO TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

WELCOME

TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND is where the rainforest meets the reef. The only place on earth where two natural World Heritage sites come together in a spectacular environmental double act.

Visit once and you will fall in love – with the exotic tropical produce and heavenly scenery; the pristine beaches and secluded inland waterfalls; the local characters and the range of activities, delivering entertainment, adventure, or simply a chance to relax and recharge.

In these pages, we have gathered some of the best stories this region has to share: The global significance of the precious Wet Tropics rainforests; the epic road trip to iconic Cape York; the flavour trails that will tempt foodies and those who just love to eat. Read, be inspired and come visit. We can’t wait to meet you. exploretnq.org.au

BAMAGA

10

WEIPA

20

INSIDE

4 16

12

MADELINE COWE: MY CAIRNS

3

JEWEL OF THE TROPICS

4

Miss World Australia’s guide to the city Discover the Wet Tropics, a natural treasure LIZARD ISLAND

COOKTOWN

SNAP HAPPY

7

FLAVOUR ON THE MENU

8

Tropical North Queensland on Instagram

LAURA

Taste sensations of the tropical north

14

CAPE TRIBULATION DAINTREE

8

PALM COVE

FITZROY ISLAND

CAIRNS

MAREEBA

7

ATHERTON

RAINFOREST TO REEF

12

PALM COVE: A FAMILY AFFAIR

14

ONE DAY WONDERS

16

MARKET DAY

19

SLEEP TIGHT IN PARADISE

20

MAKE A DATE

22

Making memories by the sea

Six road trips you can do in a day INNISFAIL

MISSION BEACH CARDWELL

EDITOR: Jane Scott DESIGNER: Barbara la Grange PHOTOS: Tourism Tropical North Queensland, Tourism and Events Queensland, Greg Henderson and Andrew Tallon. DUE NORTH has been produced by News Corp Studios Queensland for Tourism Tropical North Queensland, June 2017.

2 DUE NORTH

10

On the road to Cape York Explore two national treasures in one day

PORT DOUGLAS

CHILLAGOE

ESCAPE TO THE CAPE

Celebrity chef Nick Holloway hits the markets Five fabulous ways to fall asleep Events you won’t want to miss

MADELINE COWE

MYCAIRNS

LIFE IN THE INTERNATIONAL SPOTLIGHT HASN’T DENTED MISS WORLD AUSTRALIA’S MADELINE COWE’S LOVE FOR HER REGION. HERE, THE CAIRNS LOCAL – WHO HOLDS THE CROWN UNTIL JULY, 2017 – REVEALS A FEW OF HER FAVOURITE LOCAL PLACES

Q:WHAT MAKES TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND SO SPECIAL? A: Ooh, good question! I think it’s the

Q&A

rainforest literally meeting the reef – there are not too many other places in the world quite like it. To be able to swim in amazing freshwater waterfalls and then go out to the ocean and look over the Great Barrier Reef … that’s pretty special.

Q: FAVOURITE SECRET SPOT?

A: So many! My advice is you need to get a car if you come up here, and you really need to be here for a week. Go hiking and go swimming and really explore because there are so many little places you would never see if you’re just here for a weekend.

Q: WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE LOCAL DAY TRIP? A: Obviously there’s the Great Barrier Reef,

which is incredible to go snorkelling over, and then there are so many waterfalls and hiking tracks. One great track is Glacier Rock lookout on the outskirts of Cairns – it’s a bit of a hike but it’s worth it. Another really nice place to swim is Behana Gorge, about half an hour’s drive south of Cairns. Again, it’s a bit of a walk up to the swimming holes, but it’s amazing.

Q: HOW DO THE LOCALS COOL OFF ON A HOT DAY?

A: Impossible! No, it’s definitely by escaping to one of the many waterfalls around Cairns.

Because they’re surrounded by rainforest you have plenty of shade and you also have the cooling fresh water.

Q: GREAT BRUNCH SPOT?

A: I really like the suburb of Edge Hill in Cairns. There are a few lovely cafes; there’s one called Noa and another one called

Ozmosis Cafe Kitchen and they’re both right next to the Cairns Botanic Gardens. There’s a great walking track in there, so it’s a nice little place to spend a morning.

Q: ROMANTIC NIGHT OUT?

A: I love Palm Cove – it’s so pretty and it’s the perfect place for a date night. Also Port Douglas – my partner and I sometimes go up and have something to eat at one of the restaurants and then go to the outdoor Moonlight Cinema. You can bring your own pillows and they have bean bags. It’s really nice.

Q: FAVOURITE MARKETS?

A: The night markets in Cairns are amazing.

I go there every now and then just to get a massage – it’s really affordable and there are a lot of great things to buy, plus an assortment of food. We also have Rusty’s Markets on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, and that’s great for local, fresh produce. Oh, and if you go on a Sunday, you get a pretty great deal on a lot of the produce.

Q: BEST SPOT TO SHOP?

A: I like going to Cairns Central Shopping Centre. They run a model search every year and I’ve been able to host that for the past couple of years as well, which I really love.

Q: BEST PLACE FOR FRESH SEAFOOD?

A: The ocean! My partner has a boat and so does my dad, so a lot of the seafood we eat we catch ourselves. My partner is pretty good at spear fishing as well, and my dad has crab pots. We’re pretty lucky. Z madelinecowe facebook.com/madelinecowe1

Book your full day Great Barrier Reef trip departing from Cairns Reef Fleet Terminal.

• Check out new multi level pontoon and jumbo waterslide.

• Experience exhilarating scenic flights with Nautilus Aviation - the Ferrari’s of the sky!

www.sunlover.com.au | www.nautilusaviation.com.au exploretnq.org.au

DUE NORTH 3

JEWEL OF THE TROPICS

NORTH QUEENSLAND’S WET TROPICS WORLD HERITAGE AREA IS A LANDSCAPE OF ASTONISHING BEAUTY AND BIODIVERSITY. CRAIG TANSLEY IMMERSED HIMSELF IN THIS NATIONAL TREASURE, THE OLDEST TROPICAL RAINFOREST ON EARTH AND ONE THAT VISITORS CAN EASILY ACCESS

A

Southern Cassowary can grow up to two metres tall and can weigh as much as 80kg. It’s also equipped with razor-sharp claws and if threatened, has no hesitation using them.

That hasn’t stopped this unique bird from becoming endangered – only an estimated 4500 Southern Cassowaries remain in the wild and these are threatened by habitat fragmentation and climate change.

Which is why I’m more than a little startled to come face to face with one as I round a corner of a rainforest track just outside the Tropical North Queensland town of Mission Beach. It’s barely 5m away from me and its face looks like every colour of a Tahitian lagoon. Fortunately, the world’s second-heaviest bird isn’t in the mood for a scrape, and I get to observe its maximum running speed of 50km/h.

But then you never quite know what you’ll encounter in the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. For this is one of the largest tropical rainforest areas left on Earth – covering almost 900,000ha, stretching 450km from Townsville in the south to Cooktown in the north.

It’s an area of spectacular natural beauty – home to hundreds of waterfalls, sunken gorges, fast-flowing rivers and mountain ranges. And it holds an almost entirely complete record of the major stages in the evolution of life on earth across the past 140 million years.

It’s the oldest – 80 million years older than the Amazon – and most biologically diverse tropical rainforest on this planet and acclaimed naturalist David Attenborough simply calls it “the most extraordinary place on Earth”.

4 DUE NORTH

“It’s the oldest – 80 million years older than the Amazon – and most biologically diverse tropical rainforest on this planet and acclaimed naturalist David Attenborough simply calls it ‘the most extraordinary place on Earth’”

NATURE’S WAY (clockwise from above): Mountain peaks overlook the Coral Sea; Mossman Gorge; Myall Creek at Cape Tribulation; soaring above the Barron Gorge in a Skyrail gondola.

ABOVE: Captions vnxvxcvnvxnbvmbcxbvm cbzxmbcbzxmvcbnzvcvzbnxbncvzxnvc cbnzxvcnvcbnvzxnvcxn

DON’T MISS

WINGING IT

The Ulysses is Tropical North Queensland’s most distinctive butterfly.

Easily spotted by predators, it flits quickly between trees, so have your camera ready while exploring the Wet Tropics.

“The Wet Tropics has an amazing backstory,” Wet Tropics Management Authority project officer Terry Carmichael says.

“It’s a true survivor of natural climate change and global natural disasters over the last 200 million years.”

And yet, how often is it talked about?

Overshadowed by perennial international favourite, the Great Barrier Reef, The Wet Tropics World Heritage region is rarely in the headlines. As a result, it’s possible to visit parts of the region without encountering another traveller.

The star of the Wet Tropics zone is probably the Daintree Rainforest, but it is just one small part of what’s on offer. In all, there are nine Wet Tropics sub-regions, each with its own distinct character. Some areas are renowned for their striking geology, while others, such as the Mission Beach area, have rainforest growing right down onto some of the country’s best beaches. It’s one of the only places on Earth where two World Heritagelisted sites meet – with the Great Barrier Reef visible from the rainforest.

“What strikes me about the Wet Tropics is you only have to travel a short distance and you’re in a completely different landscape,” Terry says. ”I’ve been all over Australia and nowhere else do you get so much variety in such a small area.”

There are many ways for the traveller to access the Wet Tropics, from taking 4WD tours to staying in luxury accommodation nestled within the forest.

You can also see the forest and some of the most spectacular waterfalls of the Wet Tropics region on the iconic Kuranda Scenic Railway, whose departure station is right in the heart of Cairns.

And you’ll see the rainforest from above on the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway which takes you across the rainforest in Barron Gorge National Park, starting 15 minutes drive from the city at Smithfield. Nothing beats dangling high above the dense canopy in a Skyrail gondola, with views across the coastal plain and out to the Coral Sea beyond. The journey spans 7.5km and includes two stations, Red Peak and Barron Falls, which give visitors an up-close experience of the rainforest.

A short walk from Barron Falls station exploretnq.org.au

brings you to a viewing platform overlooking deep, densely forested Barron Gorge and the spectacular falls that thunder into it, especially during the wet season (December to March).

Not far from Tully is the Wet Tropics Great Walk – a two day hike through palm-filled gullies, rainforest and open forests inside the Girringun National Park. Rafting the Tully River offers another perspective on the

rainforest – when you’re not plunging down rapids you can soak up the serenity of the ancient landscape and look out for wildlife.

The Wet Tropics is home to more than 2800 plant species, many of which you’ll see on the walk. There are 380 plant species and 102 animal species considered rare or threatened within the Wet Tropics region.

You’ll also find a third of Australia’s 315 mammals here (13 of which you’ll find >>

DUE NORTH 5

<< nowhere else on earth), along with 40 per cent of Australia’s bird species, 58 per cent of Australia’s butterfly species and 30 per cent of Australia’s marsupial species, including the most primitive surviving kangaroo species left on Earth, the musky rat kangaroo.

It’s also worth noting there’s 113 reptile species in the forests here, so mind where you place your feet.

It may cover a large area, but you don’t have to venture far afield to experience the

“Overshadowed by perennial international favourite, the Great Barrier Reef, The Wet Tropics World Heritage region is rarely in the headlines. As a result, it’s possible to visit parts of the region without seeing another traveller”

Wet Tropics. Some tracts of it begin just outside Cairns, and it’s easy to access through attractions such as Rainforestation Nature Park, a 30-minute drive from Cairns, where amphibious WWII Army Ducks take you through rainforest and rivers.

Further north, just like at Mission Beach, Cape Tribulation is where two World Heritagelisted sites collide. Wet Tropics region rainforest grows right down to long sandy beaches right beside the Great Barrier Reef.

The best way to get up close to the rainforest here is by surfing through the forest canopy – taking a flying fox zipline across treetops and with views over the reef.

Just an hour’s drive north of Cairns, Mossman Gorge provides visitors with an opportunity to walk within Wet Tropics rainforest, while stopping to cool off in swimming holes between huge granite boulders along the Mossman River. You

D I N E . D R I F T . S T AY . P L AY.

T: (07) 4068 7444 reservations@castaways.com.au www.castaways.com.au 6 DUE NORTH

can also take a guided Dreamtime Walk through the rainforest with a local Indigenous guide who will show you exactly how their ancestors survived in these forests.

Though I find the most tranquil water holes amongst the most spectacular waterfalls in Australia further south, near Innisfail. There’s a waterfall circuit 60km west of the town which incorporates three of Queensland’s most stunning waterfalls – Millaa Millaa, Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls, all set within 10km of each other in an easyto-navigate driving circuit.

For an opportunity to sleep right in amongst the Wet Tropics World Heritage region, nothing comes closer to nature than Silky Oaks Lodge, 20 minutes drive from Port Douglas and 70 minutes from Cairns Airport.

This iconic lodge is built right inside the Daintree rainforest, meals come served in the Treehouse Restaurant, built within the canopy of the surrounding trees. The Healing Waters Spa also offers a tranquil retreat.

NEED TO KNOW For more information on the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area (including the Great Walk and the waterfall circuit) see wettropics.gov.au See the following websites for more details: rainforest.com.au (Rainforestation Nature Park), ksr.com.au (Kuranda Scenic Railway), skyrail.com.au (Skyrail Rainforest Cableway), junglesurfing.com.au (Jungle Surfing Canopy Tours) and silkyoakslodge.com.au (Silky Oaks Lodge). Z

OUTER GREAT BARRIER REEF DIVE & SNORKEL ‘The Reef in its Natural State’

T: (07) 4068 8240 info@missionbeachdive.com www.missionbeachdive.com

SNAP HAPPY TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND IS AN INSTAGRAMMERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DREAM. HERE ARE JUST A FEW OF OUR FAVOURITE POSTS

remumma

Mission Beach @adventu

llburns_

mitche Fitzroy Island @

Ellis Beach @therawphoto

Green Island @julianinparadise

Stoneys Cre

ek @wheresy oyo

BRINGING THE REEF & RAINFOREST TO YOU WWW.CAIRNSAQUARIUM.COM.AU

exploretnq.org.au

DUE NORTH 7

FLAVOUR ON THE MENU

FROM EXOTIC FRUITS TO CRAFT BEERS, HOMEGROWN CHOCOLATE TO SPECTACULAR SEAFOOD, TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND IS A FOOD LOVER’S PARADISE. KERRY HEANEY TAKES A CULINARY TOUR

W

ith its enveloping warmth and consistent rainfall, Tropical North Queensland grows exotic fruits, herbs and spices that have the rest of Australia, and the world, drooling.

This is a land where you can bite into a sweet mangosteen or crunchy star apple, eat soft black sapote by the spoonful or try deep-fried “chips” of breadfruit. Head inland, and you’ll find the perfect cup of coffee brewed from local beans, and contented cows producing milk for award-winning cheeses.

On the coast, locals say if you can’t catch it in North Queensland, it’s probably not worth worrying about. They are talking about big barramundi, colourful coral trout and black marlin, the sort of fish that has anglers rushing for their tackle bag.

But you don’t have to be a hunter-gatherer type to get a taste of the north. There’s plenty of exciting flavours and taste trails to be found without getting your hands dirty.

From Great Barrier Reef packages to World Heritage rainforest wonders, GBR Helicopters really does have something for everyone.

Our full day reef experiences, half day tours and amazing scenic flights have all been created with one thing in mind - the complete satisfaction of every customer who flies with us. Call us today.

Cairns and Port Douglas flights - gbr.com.au 8 DUE NORTH

Start in Cairns with an antipasto tasting platter of salmon green ant gravlax, smoked kangaroo with wild spice and Kakadu plum, an emu wonton dipped in Davidson plum chilli sauce and smoked crocodile accompanied by riberry mayo. You’ll find all this and more at Ochre, where chef-owner Craig Squire has been pushing the boundaries of native cuisine for more than 20 years.

At nearby Salt House, you’ll struggle to take your eyes off stunning mountain, ocean and Trinity Inlet views while enjoying excellent steaks off the custom-built wood-fired grill.

Seafood lovers should opt for the Australian seafood hot pot with Spencer Gulf black mussels, Gulf prawns and wild barramundi.

TOP TABLE: Beachfront dining at beautiful Palm Cove (above); the beer at Hemingway’s Brewery is produced on-site with water from the Mossman Gorge.

For a more casual taste of Cairns, Caffeind on Grafton St has a menu designed around locally available seasonal produce and their own brand of memorable coffee to match.

Barrier Reef Brewing Co will put a cold amber twist on the region with beers like a Double Shot Coffee Amber, Two Turtles Pale Ale or Arling Amber open. Pop in there for late afternoon tastings on Thursday and Fridays.

Close to Cairns, but a world away in terms of seaside ambience, Palm Cove is home to the celebrated restaurant Nu Nu. Framed by beachfront views of the Coral Sea, a meal at Nu Nu is a memorable dining experience whether it be breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Wander down Williams Esplanade towards the Palm Cove Jetty for a wide selection of other dining options, or head over to The Bluewater at nearby Trinity Park, where you can dine overlooking the marina.

Heading north to Port Douglas reveals yet more sophisticated dining with chef Spencer Patrick championing local flavours at Bistro H. Patrick calls the local Mossman Markets his pantry and is a regular shopper for local fruits such as miracle fruit, which after one bite makes everything taste sweet, plus bush citrus, rambutan and mangosteen.

There’s craft beer here too. Named after local characters such as Pitchfork Betty, who used to rule her drinking establishment with a pitchfork and Mrs Watson who perished along with her infant daughter in the 1800s, Hemingway’s Brewery puts both history and pure Mossman Gorge water into every pint.

Another local character to meet while dining in Port Douglas is George, the 250kg groper who arrives for a feed most nights for a 5pm booking at On the Inlet. Overlooking Dickson Inlet, this restaurant is a mecca for fresh local seafood and its tropical cocktail list.

Nearby is chic al fresco bar Barbados – time your visit for sunset and watch night fall across the inlet with a signature cocktail in hand.

Over at Betty’s Bohemian Beach Cafe, you can start the day with fruit-laden smoothie bowls and fluffy vegan pancakes.

The Port Douglas Sunday Markets is where locals shop weekly for the freshest tropical produce. Browse the stalls for samples and breakfast but for lunch don’t miss the chance to try a crocodile, kangaroo or barramundi pie at Mocka’s Pies in nearby Grant Street.

“Named after local characters such as Pitchfork Betty who used to rule her drinking establishment with a pitchfork … Hemingway’s Brewery puts both history and pure Mossman Gorge water into every pint”

FEAST (from top): Wood-fired grill steak at Salt House; cocktails on the deck at Barbados; a smoked platter at Hemingway’s Brewery; dairy goodness at Mungalli Creek.

The road narrows as you head north, but the flavour options widen in rainforest country as the trail leads across the Daintree River and on to Cape Tribulation. An ice cream stop at Daintree Ice Cream Company will see you spooning into black sapote ice cream or roasted wattleseed ice cream. All made with fruit straight from the orchard to you.

At off-the-grid Whet Café, Bar and Restaurant at Cape Tribulation, you can dine on pan-fried local Spanish mackerel and wild caught barramundi.

Take the scenic Gillies Highway from Gordonvale, just south of Cairns, for the cooler, green-clad vistas of the Atherton Tableland which bring another feast to the table.

This is dairy country, so taste the awardwinning yoghurt at Mungalli Creek Bio-Dynamic Dairy at Millaa Millaa and don’t walk away without a slice of their cheesecake to enjoy.

Tarzali Lakes Smokehouse Café captures native flavours such as kangaroo and boar in bush sausages, with bonus platypus sightings.

Just west of Mareeba, the family-owned Skybury Tropical Plantation grows coffee and papaya. Stop for lunch and enjoy a cup of barista-made Australian Arabica coffee.

Gallo Dairyland is a fully functional dairy farm with a range of dairy products including several award-winning cheeses. View the afternoon milking between 3pm and 4pm daily.

At Mount Uncle Distillery at Walkamin, you’ll find liqueurs and spirits that incorporate local and Australian ingredients. Look out for their Platinum Cane Spirit made from sugar cane spirit distilled through volcanic rock from the Cairns Tableland.

Travel through Tropical North Queensland with an empty stomach and an open mind to enjoy the taste sensations of the region. Z

GREAT LOCATION IN DOWNTOWN CAIRNS A short walk to the Great Barrier Reef cruise boats, restaurants, markets and casino.

Website: pacifichotelcairns.com Reservations: 07 4044 1700 Email: reservations@pacifichotelcairns.com

BOOK NOW exploretnq.org.au

DUE NORTH 9

ESCAPE TO THE CAPE

Cape York

THE DRIVE TO CAPE YORK IS AN ICONIC AUSTRALIAN ADVENTURE. CRAIG TANSLEY TICKS THIS EPIC JOURNEY OFF HIS BUCKET LIST

I

’d never figured myself for a 4WD enthusiast, nor had I thought much of road trips as a bona fide form of vacation. I figured they were a fine way to bring an ache Weipa on in your lower back, and to develop a sugar dependency courtesy of the lollies petrol Lockhart River stations display to profit from the monotony of your journey.

But a road trip to Cape York belongs in another category altogether. It’s like a relic from another, more adventurous era; a journey to the tip of Australia will always be the most revered road trip in this country.

And so I find myself in the front seat of a Toyota LandCruiser for the 1000km trek north Musgrave from Cairns.

There are three main ways you can tick Cooktown this journey off your bucket list. Some will go it alone in their own 4WD (or a hire car).

Laura You might also take your own vehicle on a tour as a tag-along, with a guide coaching you through crossings requiring specific CAIRNS local knowledge.

Others, meanwhile, opt for the confidence and surety of a more accomplished driver on a tour. I chose the latter, securing a spot with Martin Josselyn from Adventure Australia ROAD TRIP: Get behind the Treks & Tours. wheel for a 1000km drive What you also mightn’t know is that there from Cairns to Cape York (top). are different roads you can take on your 10 DUE NORTH

journey north; how tough you want to make your mission is often entirely up to you.

Drivers can follow the graded (and even paved for some of the way) Peninsula Development Road as far north as Weipa.

Josselyn is a Cape York four wheeldriving icon – he’s been running up and down this track for more than three decades; he prefers the challenges of dirt tracks and flooded river crossings to anything with bitumen on it. Though these days, he reckons, there’s people making it to the Tip in vehicles that wouldn’t have got them halfway there even just a few years ago.

I’m expecting endless days of dry, dusty landscapes, but the reality’s quite different.

Oh sure, there’s more red dust than you’ve seen in a lifetime, it’ll fill your nostrils so you’re sneezing it out for weeks.

The parched landscapes can be harsher than the lyrics of a Midnight Oil song (“Out where the river broke, The bloodwood and the desert oak, Holden wrecks and boiling diesels, Steam in 45 degrees”).

But only a few hundred kilometres north of Cooktown, we head east to the coast for a change of scenery, passing by rainforest

“A road trip to Cape York belongs in another category altogether. It’s like a relic from another, more adventurous era; a journey to the tip of Australia will always be the most revered road trip in this country”

as thick as the Daintree and jagged mountain ranges close to the coast.

There are stretches of beaches here around Lockhart River that go on for 10km without a soul on them. Even if you stay on the direct inland road you’ll pass through vast floodplains and inland lakes where thousands of rare birds gather to feed.

We stop nearby for lunches in national parks, paddling in freshwater swimming holes and under waterfalls to cool down.

After full days spent on the road, we stop most nights at roadhouses built beside the track north.

They’re casual affairs – forget your fancy clothes at these places: steaks come straight off the grill, and should you desire red wine, be warned, in these parts it comes with ice cubes. But there’s no more social setting anywhere in Australia.

Travellers mix at communal tables comparing river crossings – there’s a sense of community in these places that you won’t find at any swanky hotel.

Mind you, the locals take great pleasure in putting the wind up those passing through.

Every roadhouse on the way north to Cape York has a freshwater creek to cool off in – that’s why they built them where they did – and from the stories told, it seems that every freshwater creek has its very own salt-water crocodile.

I can’t say for certain if these warnings are just to put carloads of travellers on edge, but I do know that Cape York takes you through some of the wildest territory left on the face of this earth; and only a fool would ignore any warnings.

Some river crossings near Cape York go all the way up to our bonnet. And there are tracks that’ll rattle every bone in your body, though easier roads can often be found for those who prefer less adrenalin in their travels.

At some crossings we find 4WDs stuck in the water, where we pitch in to tow them out; it’s what they do up here.

exploretnq.org.au

BIG SPLASH: Cooling off in Fruit Bat Falls (above); Cape York river crossings can go all the way up to the bonnet (below).

When we finally make the Tip, heading there just past dawn from our camping spot beside Torres Strait at Punsand Bay, I’m not sure how I feel.

For a week now, this has been our mission: make the Tip at all costs. But bashing your way through some of the wildest landscape left on earth makes me understand the quintessential Aussie knock-about sense of adventure is far from dead. And there’s a big part of me that wants this adventure to carry on for much, much longer.

NEED TO KNOW

Adventure Australia Treks & Tours offer a 10-night/11-day premium tour, including meals, accommodation and attractions for $6950pp (or $2500 as tag-along). See aatt.com.au Z

NOTES FOR SELF-DRIVERS 1. Plan your trip for some time between

June and October in the dry season.

During the wet season, rivers become unpassable and dangerous.

2. Carry two spare tyres.

3. Add on to a standard 4WD with the extras

you’ll need – make sure you have a bull bar, two recovery points and a snorkel if you plan to get off the beaten track.

4. Be croc-wise – don’t linger near river

edges, salt-water crocs will venture into freshwater rivers and creeks too, so don’t assume you’re safe.

5. Take at least two jerry cans of extra fuel

– the service stations are spread out and you’ll use a lot more fuel on corrugated roads and during river crossings.

6. Don’t rely on your mobile phone, they

won’t work in most of Cape York. Use either a UHF or HF radio.

DUE NORTH 11

RAINFOREST TO REEF

VISITORS TO TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND CAN EXPERIENCE TWO NATURAL TREASURES IN ONE AMAZING DAY – THE DAINTREE RAINFOREST AND THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. JANE SCOTT REPORTS ON A NATURE LOVER’S DREAM

T

hey say it’s not a ride, but when you’re hanging upside down from a zipline and racing through ancient rainforest, with a breeze in your face and arms spread wide, you may beg to differ.

Cape Tribulation’s Jungle Surfing Canopy Tour is at heart an eco-experience; a rare chance to get up close and personal with Tropical North Queensland’s precious Wet Tropics forest and to learn more about the state’s lesser-known World Heritage site (let’s be honest, the reef does hog the limelight).

However, nature lovers with an adventurous streak will be glad to hear there are definitely thrills to be had on this eco-tour, one of many you can sign up for at Cape Trib, as the locals call this tiny village deep in the Daintree.

For such a small place (population 330), Cape Trib has a major claim to fame: it’s one of two places in North Queensland to sit at the juncture of two World Heritage sites.

On one side you’ll find the Wet Tropics, which includes the Daintree but also

encompasses other national parks as far south as Townsville, and on the other, the Great Barrier Reef, which sits a mere 19km offshore.

And the two sites are connected by more than happy proximity – the reef itself is built on the ancient rainforests of the past and is fed by underground creeks that run from the land out to sea, surfacing at the reef. The interconnection is profound.

As a visitor, the opportunity to explore both of these sites, in a single day if you so choose, is impossible to resist.

Our Jungle Surfing adventure begins early in the morning, with the sun just beginning to penetrate the thick canopy. Fitted snugly into harnesses and helmets, our group follows a short track through the bush to the so-called Human Hamster Wheel, an ingenious device which uses people power (ie, us) to lift surfers up to the first of six platforms.

Severe vertigo sufferers may struggle, but to be honest it’s hard to feel anxious when you’re busy taking in the majesty of what’s around you – an untouched, unspoilt ancient rainforest rated in the prestigious journal Science as the world’s second most irreplaceable natural World Heritage site, after the Canaima National Park in Venezuela.

That ranking was based on the Wet Tropics’ status as a haven for species – the Daintree is part of the world’s oldest intact tropical rainforest and has the greatest diversity of plants and animals in Australia.

NATURAL HIGH: Jungle Surfing places visitors high in the rainforest canopy (above); at Cape Tribulation, the rainforest meets the Coral Sea at Myall Beach (left).

12 DUE NORTH

DON’T MISS

KANGAROO ON HIGH

Jungle Surfing guides report regular sightings of the rare Bennett’s tree kangaroo. Found only between Cooktown and the Daintree River, it is one of Australia’s two tree kangaroo species.

On your journey through the canopy, look out for the wompoo fruit dove, rainforest dragons, green tree frogs, the giant amethystine python, cassowaries and if you’re fortunate, a rare Bennetts tree kangaroo.

There are 920 tree species, including the Idiot Fruit, which dates back 110 million years, the giant King Fern, and the spectacular, slowgrowing fan palms, endemic to the area.

The Jungle Surfing zipline loops 350m through the forest and takes two hours to complete, including a full hour in the canopy.

The highest point is platform three, at 19.5m tall, offering striking views – the eerily named Mt Sorrow towers behind, while in front are views across the canopy to the sparkling Coral Sea. Travel between the platforms is exhilarating but gentler than you might expect – a top rope belay system means that the guides control your speed and progress, and generally keep things steady enough that you can appreciate your surroundings rather than rushing through them in a blur.

All the way, our guides Guy, James and Noel deliver a litany of facts and figures about the forest – many of the guides have been trained by the Wet Tropics Authority to deliver the latest and most accurate information to visitors. These guys are true nature lovers whose love of their jungle office is infectious.

Exhilarated by the tranquillity of the forest, the freshness of the incredibly pure air, and the thrill of the zip-lining itself, we’re all game for the final challenge – the upside-down run home to the sixth and final platform.

Following the guides’ instructions to the letter, I step off the platform, lean back, swing my legs up and cross them over in front of the harness connection.

Fighting every instinct I possess I then let go and swing my arms wide and I’m off, speeding through a wall of green to the safety of the platform. Consider those bragging rights officially nailed.

After a quick lunch at the Turtle Rock Cafe, we’re ready to swap harnesses for stinger exploretnq.org.au

suits (between the months of November and May only) and step aboard a rigid inflatable boat powered by 700hp engines for our Ocean Safari snorkelling experince.

This half-day tour exploits Cape Trib’s proximity to the reef, with guests ready to sink beneath the surface at beautiful Mackay Reef just 25 minutes after departing Myall Beach. It’s full steam ahead as the powerful boat surges across the waves, but it’s impossible to take our eyes off the land we’re leaving behind.

Within minutes of our departure, all signs of human habitation at Cape Tribulation have been swallowed up by the canopy and all we can see are the towering, forest clad peaks of the Alexandra Range, fringed at the water’s edge by pristine white sand and a lacy trail of surf.

In Cape Trib, nature remains very much in charge.

First stop at Mackay Reef is Turtles, a pretty mooring that promises – and delivers – sightings of green turtles.

Perfect for beginners, but equally satisfying for more experienced snorkelers, Turtles offers sheltered viewing of shallow reef, with “granny’s garden” providing easy access to colourful corals, from bright yellow and indigo blue to more muted pinks and greens.

Multitudes of fish large and small swim all around us as we wave our hands over giant clams and dive down for a closer look at an eagle ray sheltering under a coral outcrop.

Black tip and white tip reef sharks are often spotted while a group a few days before ours encountered a dugong.

Before long, there’s a shout and it’s turtle time – a group of four green turtles swimming and diving through the clear water, apparently untroubled by their human audience. As the adorable creatures glide from sea floor to surface and back again, we follow them up and down, exhausting ourselves in an effort to prolong this special moment.

Depending on conditions and tides, most Ocean Safari tours take in a second reef, Undine, before reluctantly turning for home.

Once on dry land, visitors have the option of heading south across the Daintree River to civilisation or staying put for another night in wild, wonderful Cape Trib. It’s a no brainer. In my book, Mother Nature wins, every time. Z

“It’s hard to be anxious when you’re taking in what’s around you – an untouched, unspoilt, ancient rainforest rated as the world’s second most irreplaceable natural World Heritage site”

ADVENTURE: Ziplining through the Daintree (top); turtle encounter with Ocean Safari (above); moored at beautiful Mackay Reef (below).

DUE NORTH 13

PALM COVE: A FAMILY AFFAIR MAKE BEAUTIFUL MEMORIES WITH A STAY AT THIS CHIC, LAIDBACK VILLAGE JUST NORTH OF CAIRNS. ANGELA SAURINE REVEALS 10 REASONS WHY KIDS AND GROWN-UPS LOVE PALM COVE

1

PALM COVE JETTY

Built as a departure platform for Great Barrier Reef cruises in 1986, Palm Cove Jetty became a popular fishing spot after strong swells made the site unsuitable. Bordered by rocky headlands, the jetty juts out around 40m into the sea between Ellis Beach and Clifton Beach. It is a great place to catch Spanish and school mackerel, or even a barramundi if you’re lucky. The kids, meanwhile, will love hooking whiting, stripeys, grunter and flathead. Pop into Bransford’s Tackle Shop and Fishing Museum at Clifton Beach for tips before you throw in a line.

2

COLOURFUL SHOPS

Soak up the holiday vibe as you wander the colourfully-painted boutiques, art galleries and swimwear shops at Palm Cove Village.

Pick up gifts for loved ones at Tropical Palm Cove T-Shirt and Souvenirs, check out the latest releases from surfwear brands at Buccaneer Beach and Surf and peruse the dresses at Paradise Resort Shop before indulging in a treatment at Vie spa at Pullman Sea Temple. Stroll down to Pandanus Gallery at The Beach Club to see some of the finest indigenous art in the region, from artefacts to dot paintings.

3

HARTLEY’S CROCODILE ADVENTURES

See crocodiles up to 5m long shoot high out of the water to eat chickens being dangled in front of them during a lagoon cruise at Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures. Then stroll the timber boardwalks and pathways to see lizards, cassowaries, snakes and koalas, and learn more about them during presentations and feeding times. The attraction, a 15-minute drive north of Palm Cove at Wangetti, is fun and educational, with the regular wildlife presentations including cassowary feeding, a snake show, and the Crocodile Attack Show, during which a keeper gets into the water with a crocodile.

Lilies Restaurant, which overlooks the lagoon (and its croc inhabitants), is a lovely spot for lunch and you can buy souvenirs at Paperbark Gift Shop and learn about the evolution of Australia’s wildlife at Gondwana Gateway.

4 BEACH FUN

Spend a day hanging out at Palm Cove beach enjoying simple pleasures such as building sandcastles, swimming in the warm tropical water and playing beach cricket.

Patrolled by lifeguards, the beach has small waves and is safe for swimming – just stick to the net enclosures, particularly during stinger season (November to May). Williams Esplanade, parallel to the beach, provides ample parking and there are plenty of palm trees to provide shade and grassy areas to enjoy a picnic lunch. You can also fish off the beach at high tide.

PADDLE POWER: Look out for turtles, lagoon rays and dolphins while kayaking off the beach at Palm Cove.

14 DUE NORTH

5

JACK AND SHANAN’S

With a cute fitout and friendly staff, Jack and Shanan’s is a firm favourite with local families. Satisfy your craving for a green smoothie at the Jooce Bar, or take your pick from the tempting flavours of artisan gelato, produced on-site from local, bio-dynamically farmed milk. For brekky, start fresh with a superfood smoothie bowl or the ranch style pancakes (pancake stacked with scotch fillet, bacon, housemade beans, local Yamagashi Happy Eggs and more). Lunch favourites include the Coral Reef fish tacos and open gourmet burger, while there are plenty of gluten-free options and a range of gourmet crepes to order for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

6

FUN FACTOR: Kids love Palm Cove’s swings by the sea (above); shopping strips don’t get prettier than Palm Cove’s beachfront esplanade (below).

WATER SPORTS

Holidays are the perfect time to try new things – and Palm Cove provides great conditions for kids to learn to kayak, snorkel or have a go at stand-up paddle boarding. Palm Cove Watersports, conveniently located in Williams Esplanade, offers a variety of tours.

Early risers will love the sunrise tour, while the half-day snorkelling and kayaking adventure to Double Island provides a great opportunity to look for blue spotted lagoon rays, turtles and dolphins and peek at the exclusive Double Island Resort, where Hollywood stars including Jennifer Aniston and Keanu Reeves have stayed in the past.

7

“No matter how many natural activities there are on offer, children still love a good playground, and the one at Palm Cove will not disappoint”

CHILL CAFE

For a laidback family meal, look no further than Chill Cafe in Williams Esplanade. As the name suggests, the relaxed eatery is loved

exploretnq.org.au

for its friendly staff and live music, which may include a guitarist and a didgeridoo player. It serves an all-day breakfast ranging from freshly baked banana bread and traditional bacon and eggs to a waffle with honey nut crumble, strawberries, frozen mango yoghurt and maple syrup raspberry coulis. At lunch, wash down oysters, fish tacos and pulled lamb and rosemary burgers with tropical fruit smoothies, old-school milkshakes and cocktails. There’s also a dedicated kid’s menu that includes fish and chips, a cheeseburger and fries and a ham and cheese toastie.

8

PALM COVE PLAYGROUND

9

THE BEACH SHACK

No matter how many natural activities there are on offer, children still love a good playground, and the one at Palm Cove will not disappoint. The beachfront playground has swings, slides and climbing equipment. There are picnic tables and chairs nearby for mum and dad to keep an eye on their charges in comfort, as well as water fountains and public toilets.

There’s no better place to watch night fall as you munch on a wood fired pizza with the sand between your toes than The Beach Shack at Kewarra Beach Resort. Eight minutes’ drive

south of Palm Cove, the casual restaurant has live music from 6pm on Friday nights and on Sunday afternoons. Popular with locals and tourists alike, it gets pretty busy on Fridays, so it’s best to book a table in advance and get there early.

DON’T MISS HARTLEY’S BIG CROC EXPERIENCE Families with older

children (16 years and over) can get up close with crocs on this 45-minute experience, which includes the chance to hold a juvenile estuarine crocodile and pole feed a croc.

See crocodileadventures.com for details.

10

ALAMANDA PALM COVE BY LANCEMORE SPA

After a day at the beach, head to Alamanda Palm Cove by Lancemore for a massage, facial or body wrap. The spa offers plenty of treatments to help rejuvenate sun-scorched skin for guests aged 16 and over. Body wraps include the purifying marine body wrap and the avocado smoothie, in which a creamy mask is placed on the skin to replenish essential moisture and nutrients. Or choose a body polish and have your skin buffed with raw sugar cane granules and infused with virgin coconut oil. Z DUE NORTH 15

DISCOVER LOCAL SPECIALTIES AND HIDDEN GEMS ON A MINI ROAD TRIP THROUGH TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND. LEE MYLNE HAS SIX ITINERARIES TO GET YOU OUT AND ABOUT

ONE DAY WONDERS DOUGLAS TO 1PORT CAPE TRIBULATION

On the road out of Port Douglas, the coastal landscape gives way to lush rainforest. This is where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef and time seems to stand still.

Start the day on the water with the Daintree River Cruise Centre. Spot crocs, lizards, snakes and butterflies in one of the world’s most densely populated mangrove estuaries.

After a lunch stop at the Daintree Village Hotel – choose the crocodile salad (pictured) or a classic chicken parm – take the car ferry across the Daintree River and head further north to Cape Tribulation.

There you can zipline through the rainforest canopy – it’s called “jungle surfing” – with Jungle Adventures on Cape Tribulation, or snorkel with sea turtles on a Great Barrier Reef adventure with Ocean Safari.

Beautiful Cape Tribulation beach is protected by a headland, with a lookout that provides stunning views of the coastline, where Queensland’s two globally significant World Heritage sites come within touching distance.

TOTAL DRIVE TIME

3hrs 40mins

TOTAL DRIVE TIME

3CAIRNS TO MISSION BEACH

1hr 40mins

2 PORT DOUGLAS TO DAINTREE

Heading north from the beaches of Port Douglas, you’ll soon be exploring the World Heritage-listed Daintree National Park. On the way, drop by Mossman Gorge for a swim, a rainforest walk (pictured) and a guided Dreamtime Walk.

Carry on to laid-back Daintree Village, a pretty spot on the banks of the Daintree River, with plenty of opportunities to spot birds and crocs.

On the other side of the river, the Daintree Discovery Centre gives easy access to the rainforest wilderness via boardwalks, a 23m Canopy Tower, and an aerial walkway.

About 12km north of the river, take half an hour to explore the Jindalba Boardwalk, in Kuku Yalanji country. This 700m loop winds beneath a canopy of giant fan palms and ferns, and is also home to Bennett’s tree kangaroos.

Tackle a big Aussie burger – croc burger, anyone? – at Mason’s Cafe. There’s a secret, croc-free swimming hole behind the cafe (which doubles as an information centre), perfect for cooling off on a steamy tropical day.

Breakfast at the legendary Babinda Bakery in pretty Babinda awaits as you head south from Cairns on the Bruce Highway. The bakery opens at 8am so grab a coffee and a cream bun, and something extra for the road.

Carry on to Mission Beach, where you can see cocoa being grown and processed into chocolate at Charley’s Chocolate Factory. Tours run on Thursdays and Sundays, and include a tasting of Charley’s award-winning product.

There are multiple lunch options at beautiful Mission Beach. The pizzas are excellent at Millers Beach Bar & Grill or stop at Bluewater Cafe for share platters, burgers and tasty salads.

Retrace your steps to Babinda and the Babinda Boulders, scattered along the Babinda Creek (pictured), which has a beautiful swimming hole. There’s another at nearby Josephine Falls, where a 750m rainforest walk – with several lookouts along the way – leads to the bottom pool.

TOTAL DRIVE TIME 4hrs

Mission Beach

Heart of the Tropical Coast, birth place of the Great Barrier Reef.

www.tropicalcoasttourism.com.au 16 DUE NORTH

TOTAL DRIVE TIME

2hrs 20mins

4CAIRNS TO MAMU SKYWALK

Head south from Cairns on the Bruce Highway to discover the Mamu Skywalk, in Wooroonooran National Park. From the main road, it’s 27km west on the Palmerston Highway.

A short rainforest walk leads to the cantilever and elevated skywalk. Climb the stairs to the observation tower for uninterrupted views of the forest and the Johnstone River from 37m above ground level.

Not far up the road you’ll find the Henrietta Creek Campground. Follow the track to Nandroya Falls, stopping at one of the swimming holes along the way to cool off.

For lunch, grab a table on the balcony at the Queenslander-style Mena Creek Hotel, on the scenic Canecutter Way. In the afternoon, wander through nearby Paronella Park (pictured), a castle built in 1935 by Spanish immigrant Jose Paronella for his new bride.

Set on 5ha beside Mena Creek Falls, the romantic ruins are now surrounded by lush tropical gardens and rainforest.

TOTAL DRIVE TIME 3hrs

exploretnq.org.au

5CAIRNS TO YUNGABURRA

From Cairns, it’s an easy drive south-west to the Crater Lakes National Park, in the eastern part of the Atherton Tableland. Lake Eacham provides a wonderful spot to swim, kayak, or have a picnic. Walk the 3km circuit track around this clear blue lake through the rainforest.

Stop off at the giant Curtain Fig Tree (pictured) before heading to the lovely town of Yungaburra, with its historic old pub. Just out of town is the Avenue of Honour, the national war memorial dedicated to Australia’s veterans who served in Afghanistan. Other attractions worth a stop on your roadtrip through the Tablelands include Gallo Dairyland and Mt Uncle Distillery.

Halfway between Atherton and Malanda, Gallo Dairyland is a working dairy farm, which offers something for all the family: milking demonstrations, an animal nursery, gourmet cheese factory (with tastings), handmade chocolates and a cafe and restaurant.

Nestled at the foothills of Mt Uncle at Walkamin and set in landscaped gardens within a banana plantation, Mt Uncle Distillery produces whisky, gin, rum and vodka – all with a local flavour.

You’ll also get the chance to meet the resident alpacas, donkeys, goats and peacocks.

WATERFALL 6CAIRNS CIRCUIT

Pack your swimmers and walking shoes for a tour of what are literally the region’s coolest attractions.

Drive south from Cairns to Innisfail, then head inland up the Palmerston Highway. Here you’ll find three falls in quick succession – Tchupala, Wallicher and Nandroya. Stop for a swim and debate with your companions about which is the most beautiful.

Continue driving uphill until you reach the beautiful Atherton Tablelands, where you’ll find the fairytale drop of Millaa Millaa Falls, the region’s most photographed.

Nearby are Zillie and Ellinjaa (pictured), where you can climb behind the tumbling water for a cool rest.

Drive north through the lush Tablelands countryside to Malanda Falls, next to the Malanda Visitor Centre. This one is a short walk from the carpark, perfect for those travelling with tired little ones.

From Malanda, follow Lake Barrine Rd to picturesque Yungaburra, stopping at the Whistlestop Cafe for a bite to eat. Take the scenic and winding Gillies Range Rd back to Cairns, or continue via Atherton, dropping into the fascinating Crystal Caves on the way, where an unassuming shopfront hides an unexpected crystal-laden experience. Z

TOTAL DRIVE TIME 3hrs

DUE NORTH 17

reef, rainforests & remote islands SMALL SHIP EXPEDITIONS

Coral Expeditions knows the UNESCO World Heritage listed Great Barrier Reef better than most, having pioneered overnight cruises on the outer reef more than 30 years ago. The tailormade itineraries venturing to the pristine outer reef, coupled with access to private and exclusive mooring destinations, allow us to offer a unique and unmatched experience of the Reef.

Our purpose-built expedition vessel, Coral Expeditions II, takes a maximum of just 44 guests in relaxed comfort on voyages that are truly immersive, venturing far beyond the day-trips to the underwater wonderland that you’ve long imagined.

Resident Marine Biologists bring the species to life, with “touch and learn” displays on board and in the water.

Guests will have the rare opportunity to snorkel and dive at our private moorings at Ribbon Reefs No. 3 and 9, as well as Escape, Nathan and Coates Reef’s.

Coral Expeditions is a leader in Reef conservation, a member of EcoTourism Australia, and an Accredited EcoTourism Operator. By choosing Coral Expeditions for your Great Barrier Reef experience, you are choosing to travel with a company that prioritises the long term conservation of the Reef and it’s ecosystem.

Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, the Great Barrier Reef is one of the wonders of the natural world, and can only be experienced to be understood.

Let this wonderland move you. And let Coral Expeditions, the experts in this unique ecosystem, show you why it’s worth conserving.

> GREAT BARRIER REEF CRUISES 3, 4 & 7-night cruises available Departs from Cairns year-round Maximum of 44 guests

> www.coralexpeditions.com > 1800 079 545 > cruise@coralexpeditions.com

MEET THE LOCALS

THE GREEN TURTLE

The Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas; also known as the Green Sea Turtle) is so named for the colour of its cartilage and fat – not its shell. With a large pair of paddle-like flippers, Green Turtles easily navigate the seagrass that they feed on, only biting off the blade, to keep the seagrass healthy and plentiful; a beautiful symbiotic relationship that enables them to live up to 80 years in the wild.

MARKET DAY CELEBRATED PALM COVE CHEF NICK HOLLOWAY ADORES ICONIC RUSTY’S MARKETS IN CAIRNS. KERRY HEANEY JOINED HIM FOR A TOUR OF THE STALLS

Make individual serves of this crunchy, soft, salty, sweet and sour salad, inspired by ingredients sourced from Rusty’s Markets.

INGREDIENTS (PER PERSON) 1 crunchy persimmon 1 Atherton Tablelands buffalo mozzarella (about 250g) 1 tbs walnuts 4 olives, dried 1 tsp sherry vinegar 1 tbs olive oil ¼ lemon, zested 4 sage leaves

C

ook what is right in front of you.

That’s what Nick Holloway’s mum taught him, and it’s these words that go with him early every Friday to Tropical North Queensland’s favourite markets, Rusty’s in Grafton St, Cairns.

If you want to put your finger on the pulse of the vibrant regional food scene, this is the place to start. Amid the bustle of market business, you’ll find chefs like Nick casting a seasoned eye over the produce, ready to stock up for his award-winning restaurant Nu Nu at Palm Cove.

Fringed by palm trees and perched right on the beachfront against the usually placid waters of the Coral Sea, Nu Nu is a sort of food heaven where line-caught reef fish mixes it up with cassava and taro crisps and rainforest honeycomb. Nick’s mantra is local, seasonal and organic where possible, and he shops carefully at Rusty’s seeking only the best for his kitchen.

This 30-year-old market boasts 180-plus stalls and offers everything from clothing, jewellery and bric-a-brac to fresh bread, but it’s the local fruit and vegetable sellers that make it exceptional.

NICK’S CRUNCHY PERSIMMON, BUFFALO MOZZARELLA, WALNUT AND SAGE SALAD

It’s certainly an early bird that catches the worm here. The markets open at 5am on Friday brimming with smaller producers from the Atherton Tablelands and the Cassowary Coast centres of Innisfail and South Johnstone.

“I have great relationships with stall holders and have built up trust over a long time,” says Nick. “It took me 10 years to get on a list of 15 people for durian, and now I share the top spot with one other person. I buy two a week at $100 a durian.

“Going to Rusty’s is an important ritual, and the kids love to come in the van as a rite of passage. First I have a stroll around and a coffee while I notice any changes.

“There are so many interesting tropical fruits and vegetables, but they often are available in smaller quantities and are easily overlooked. Last week I saw ice cream beans which I grabbed because they have a spongy, sweet texture in the middle.”

Nick says the sharing of knowledge is paramount. “How are you going to cook that?” is a frequent question.

“Rusty’s gives you an insight into how other cuisines prepare food. It’s all about real people doing real cooking in their own homes.” Z

1. Cut the persimmon into thick slices about the width of your little finger and arrange on a plate. Tear the buffalo mozzarella into large chunks and dot over the persimmons.

2. Dry the olives on baking paper in the oven at 100C for 25 minutes, so they are warm and have shrunk a little.

3. Toast the walnuts in the oven at 160C for 8 minutes then roughly crush them with a saucepan. (As an option, add some torn leftover bread to absorb the walnut oil).

4. Cook the sage in oil until crispy, and zest the lemon.

5. Place the dried olives, warm crumbled walnuts, lemon zest and sage over the persimmons and mozzarella. Dress the salad liberally with the olive oil and vinegar. It is important that the cheese is cold, the persimmons are chilled and toasted items still warm, so there is a contrast of temperatures.

NICK’S TIPS FOR RUSTY’S

FLAVOUR FAN: Nick Holloway of Nu Nu in Palm Cove finds inspiration at the markets; rambutan are among the tropical fruits on offer (above). »» Allow two hours for a visit, including stopping for a bite to eat, such as a Vietnamese banh mi and a coffee from Billy’s. »» Park nearby, so you don’t have to walk far to put your many purchases in the car. Make sure you have a cooler bag and Esky in the car. »» Take a two-tiered trolley, so nothing gets squashed. You are buying fruit

exploretnq.org.au

and vegetables at their most delicious and ripe so they are often delicate and fragile, not bred for longevity like those at the supermarket. »» Work in a zig-zag pattern, so you don’t miss anything. »» Always turn up hungry. »» Be open to what the market has for you.

The worst plan is to open a cookbook and say I want to make this and then try

to find the ingredients at the market. The best plan is go to the market to discover something awesome and then research a recipe using that ingredient.

GETTING THERE Rusty’s Markets are open Friday and Saturday, 5am-6pm, and Sundays, 5am3pm. Two hours free parking is available in Rusty’s carpark, above the centre.

See rustysmarkets.com.au DUE NORTH 19

SLEEP TIGHT IN PARADISE

REST YOUR HEAD SOMEWHERE UNFORGETTABLE ON A VISIT TO TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND. ANGELA SAURINE EXPLORES FIVE MEMORABLE ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS

1

ISLAND LIFE

Get away from it all at Fitzroy Island Resort, a 4km sq island which is just a 45-minute Fast Cat ride from Cairns. Stay in a bungalow, beach cabin, studio room or suite and spend your days snorkelling, kayaking and hiking in the surrounding national park. Walk to the summit, the lighthouse at the eastern end of the island, which was a military base during World War

II, or to the two main beaches, Welcome Bay and Nudey Beach. Recently named the second-best beach in the country by Tourism Australia’s global beach ambassador Brad Farmer, Nudey is a secluded stretch of pristine sand, backed with protected rainforest where, these days, nude sunbathers are rarely spotted. The resort has a beachfront bar Foxy’s, a restaurant called Zephyr and a pool with a swim-up bar.

Kids will love the arcade games room, movie theatre and play room. Butterfly bungalows are available from $150 per night, with Resort Studios from $260 per night.

See fitzroyisland.com

2

ON THE REEF

3

UNDER CANVAS

Listen to the sound of water lapping against the pontoon as you float above the Great Barrier Reef during the unique Sunlover

by Starlight experience. Sunlover Reef Cruises offers the ultimate sleep-out experience with an overnight stay for up to 18 people at Moore Reef Pontoon, 26 nautical miles off the coast of Cairns. Guests sleep in deluxe swags on the 45m long, 12m wide pontoon and have exclusive access to the reef after the day trippers leave at 3.30pm until 11am the next day when the vessel returns. Enjoy a cheese and fruit platter as the sun sets over the water, followed by a marine life presentation in the underwater observatory and a barbecue dinner. The next morning, experience a private guided snorkel safari and a glass bottom boat tour. The Sunlover by Starlight experience costs $499 per person per night, with a minimum age of 12.

See sunlover.com.au

Pitch a tent between the palm trees metres from the sand at Ellis Beach Oceanfront Bungalow & Leisure Park. On a

BEACH BLISS: Fitzroy Island is a short Fast Cat ride from Cairns (above); settle into your swag for a night on Moore Reef Pontoon with Sunlover by Starlight (left).

20 DUE NORTH

“Relax on the timber deck and take in the views over Oak Beach as wallabies, possums and sugar gliders go about their business in the trees around you” 6km-long beach halfway between Cairns and Port Douglas and just five minutes’ drive north of Palm Cove, the park has a range of beachfront campsites with views across the water to Double Island. There’s a camp kitchen with covered eating areas, coin-operated barbecues, a pool and wading pool, two toilet blocks with showers and laundry rooms with coin-operated washing machines and dryers. Stock up on bread and milk, hire fishing rods and buy bait from the general store and head across the road to Ellis Beach Bar and Grill for bistro-style meals and live music on some Sunday afternoons. Powered beachfront sites cost $43 per night for two during the low season (November to April) and $48 during the high season (May to October). If glamping is more your thing, Ellis Beach also has bungalows and budget cabins.

See ellisbeach.com.au

4

WITH THE BIRDS

Doze off among the treetops at Thala Beach Nature Reserve, a bush-covered 58ha property criss-crossed with paths taking you through native forest to secluded coves and swimming holes formed by waterfalls and natural boulders. The family-owned beachfront eco-retreat between Cairns and Port Douglas has 83 bungalows, including the treehouse-like Coral Sea Bungalows, which are built on stilts. Relax on your private timber deck and take in the views over Oak Beach as wallabies, possums and sugar gliders go about their business in the trees around you. Complimentary guided wildlife walks with on-site rangers are available, as well as bird watching tours, tree planting and stargazing. The retreat’s

Osprey’s Restaurant is perched high on a hill, offering modern Australian cuisine with panoramic views across the Coral Sea and north to Cape Tribulation as gentle breezes keep diners cool. Coral Sea Bungalows start from $739 per night twin share, with specials such as pay for four nights and stay for five available.

See thalabeach.com.au

5

IN THE LAP OF LUXURY

Splash out with a trip to the northernmost accommodation on the Great Barrier Reef, the luxurious Lizard Island Resort. A one-hour flight from Cairns, the property sleeps up to 82 guests in 40 suites and villas designed in harmony with nature.

The Villa is located on top of a cliff with a private plunge pool and two bedrooms.

Canapes are served by a food and beverage valet each night. Take a guided tour to the research station, hike to the top of Cook’s Look or indulge in a treatment at the Essential Day Spa. Order a picnic hamper and get dropped off by boat at one of the island’s 24 beaches for a private lunch. At night, soak up the 180-degree views from Salt Water Restaurant or liaise with the chef on a menu for a seven-course degustation dinner on a private beach pavilion at Anchor Bay. Prices for Gardenview Rooms start from $1800 per night twin share, with The Villa priced from $5800.

See lizardisland.com.au Z

HIGH LIFE: Slumber in the treetops at Thala Beach Nature Reserve (right); Lizard Island is one of Australia’s most luxurious resorts (below).

DON’T MISS SAVE THE TURTLES No stay at Fitzroy Island Resort is complete without a visit to the Cairns Turtle Rehabilitation Centre where volunteers lead tours for up to 15 people at a time, to meet turtles saved from oils spills, crocodiles and fishing nets.

exploretnq.org.au

DUE NORTH 21

MAKE A DATE WHY NOT PLAN YOUR VISIT TO TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND TO TAKE IN ONE OF THESE GREAT SPORTING, CULTURAL OR CULINARY EVENTS GREAT BARRIER REEF MASTERS GAMES

WHEN: Every second year, in May WHERE: Cairns Close to 2000 masters-aged men and women from Australia, Oceania and South East Asia converge on Cairns for this event.

Participants compete in a range of sports from archery and cricket to hockey and beach volleyball across four days of competition, while enjoying a nightly entertainment program. gbrmg.com.au

CAIRNS AIRPORT ADVENTURE FESTIVAL

WHEN: Every year, in June WHERE: Cairns The Cairns Airport Adventure Festival is a feast of events, including RRR Mountain Bike Challenge, Great Barrier Reef Ocean Challenge, Quicksilver Reef Swim – Green Island and McDonalds IRONKIDS Cairns.

22 DUE NORTH

AFL PREMIERSHIP

The pinnacle event is the gruelling Cairns Airport IRONMAN AsiaPacific Championship Cairns. ap.ironman.com

CAIRNS INDIGENOUS ART FAIR

WHEN: Every year, in July LOCATION: Cairns A celebration of the art of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples, the art fair is a three-day display of visual art, music and performance with a combination of free and ticketed events. ciaf.com.au

REEF FEAST PALM COVE

WHEN: Every year, in July LOCATION: Cairns The AFL comes to Cairns each year, giving local fans a chance to see big names in action at Cazaly’s Stadium. There’s nothing like getting caught up in the atmosphere amid a sea of supporters decked out in their team’s colours, and with a capacity of 13,500 Cazaly’s promises to turn it on for the twilight game. afl.com.au/tickets

TASTE PORT DOUGLAS

WHEN: Every year, in October WHERE: Palm Cove Reef Feast Palm Cove is one of the region’s premier foodie events, celebrating the region’s fine cuisine, produce, live music, culture and lifestyle. With events such as The Longest Lunch, Prawns by the Jetty, Sunset Soiree, TNQ Beer Awards and a seaside market day, Reef Feast combines family-friendly activities with events to tempt the most discerning of palates. reeffeast.com.au

TROPICAL JOURNEYS GREAT BARRIER REEF MARATHON

NRL PREMIERSHIP

WHEN: Every year, in July LOCATION: Cairns Every year, league enthusiasts get a taste of live NRL Premiership action. Thousands of fans soak up the unique atmosphere of a live game at Barlow Park. Tickets can be purchased through Ticketek. premier.ticketek.com.au

WHEN: Every year, in August LOCATION: Port Douglas Taste Port Douglas is an annual celebration of Tropical North Queensland food culture. The three-day foodie fest highlights the region’s produce, farmers, indigenous culture and restaurants, with the help of presenters and chefs from some of Australia’s most prestigious restaurants and food publications. The main event is the Taste Port Douglas Food and Wine Festival weekend, taking place over two days at Rex Smeal Park. tasteportdouglas.com

WHEN: Every year in October LOCATION: Port Douglas Dubbed “the world’s best adventure course” by Olympic marathon champion Steve Moneghetti, the landscape of Port Douglas offers a combination of beach, road and trail running for all distances, enabling runners to experience the region for themselves.

All distances start on the flat, compact sands of Four Mile Beach – some with the sun rising over the Coral Sea. Distances range from a 2.3km junior challenge to 42km. greatbarrierreefmarathon.com.au

HOTEL CASINO

Cairns

No.1 E N T E R TA I N M E N T COMPLEX

REEFCASINO.COM.AU

THE COMPLEX OVER 500 GAMING MACHINES TA B L E G A M E S 5 S TA R A C C O M M O D AT I O N L I V E E N T E R TA I N M E N T SPORTS ARENA CAFE, BARS & R E S TA U R A N T S CAIRNS ZOOM & WILDLIFE DOME CAIRNS D I N N E R T H E AT R E

35-41 WHARF STREET, CAIRNS CITY QLD 4870 - (07) 4030 8888 The Reef Hotel Casino supports responsible gambling. Need help? Call the gambling help line on 1800 858 858

Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Premier Regional Airline

Airnorth offers full-service flights with complimentary 20kg baggage allowance and free in-flight meals with comfortable leather seats, offering a pleasant flight experience.

Daily

2 2 3

services from Darwin - Gove - Cairns

connecting services per week from Melbourne - Toowoomba Direct fights per Cairns

week from Townsville - Cairns Darwin

Fights per week direct services per week from Melbourne - Cairns

3

Gove

Cairns

Toowoomba

from Toowoomba - Cairns Melbourne

Book Now! www.airnorth.com.au | 1800 627 474 | reservations@airnorth.com.au