Lakeside Sunday
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Tank House BBQ and Bar 1925 J Street, (916) 431-7199, http://tankhousesacramento.com I’ve lived a privileged life when it comes to barbeque and grilling. My dad’s side of the family has deep by roots in Kansas City, Mo., where relations Garrett McCord barbequed briskets low and slow. My husband is the son of a grill- and chili-competition champ and has inherited the skills passed down to him. Suffice it to say, I hold high standards. Tank House BBQ and Bar recently opened in the former Hads Steak & Seafood location in Midtown across from the MARRS building. For husband-and-wife team Tyler and Melissa Williams, the move to launch a barbeque joint rating: that was open late and stocked with a fine selecHHH tion of beer and whiskey was a clever one. dinner for one: Along with talented chef and pit master $10 - $20 Brian “Chachi” Maydahl (a stalwart chef with stripes earned via The Kitchen, Tuli Bistro and Shady Lady Saloon), they’re aiming to fill a void that so far only Sandra Dee’s BBQ & Seafood and Texas West BBQ have dared step into. The décor here is “suspenders and suede oxfords”—both homey and eclectic with old wood, new wood and wallpaper that is to die for. A large patio is welcoming and allows diners to bathe in the haze from the drum H smoker. You’ll leave perfumed in white oak flawed and almond-wood smoke; a good thing if your HH date digs the smell of meat and wood, bad if haS momentS you have a meeting after lunch. HHH The coleslaw here is served as a mix of appealing finely shredded cabbage and carrots that still HHHH have plenty of crunch, but while the body is authoritative strong, the soul is absent. A simple addition of HHHHH celery seed, caraway, cider vinegar or lemon epic would enliven it. Greens are packed with vinegar, bacon and yesiwantsecondsplease. The hot links are from Silva Sausage Company in the Bay Area and are the only item not made in-house. If you haven’t had this brand of hot link before, well, it’s hot as sex in July on a tin roof. They’re cut in half lengthwise before cooking and charred quickly, which tends to dry them out, but a slathering of the sauces fixes that fine enough. Still hungry? The ribs are astounding in texture: The meat Search Sn&r’s falls off the bone with confidence that your “dining directory” mouth will catch it. A lack of salt or spice on to find local the ribs, however, robs them of the chance of restaurants by name or by type of food. being truly astonishing. (An easy fix.) Sushi, mexican, indian, The brisket—that’s the crux of any barbeque italian—discover it joint. If a barbeque joint’s brisket is bad, it all in the “dining” should close down to save face. You barbeque section at diehards out there know it’s the truth. So, how www.news review.com. is it at Tank House? It’s fantastic—as tender as the first time you held hands with a high-school crush, with a sweet, smoky flavor that’s just as memorable. Loaded onto the sandwich and served with white American cheese, it makes for an epic meal. Sadly, the sauces, however, need help. The sweet sauce seems like a saccharine riff of a Kansas City-style sauce, i.e., it’s BEFORE
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tomato-based. It’s also a bit polarizing: Some of my dining companions thought it was delightful, others thought it tasted like ketchup and sugar. However, we all agreed that some layering of spice—garlic, onion, Worcestershire sauce, something—was needed. The vinegar-based sauce (think a less sour Carolinian-style sauce) is tangy, as it’s billed to be. I prefer tangy barbecue sauces to be sour enough to slap you in the mouth, and spicy enough to make you gasp for air. Then again, as a chef I worked for once told me, “Sauce is subjective.”
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Sliced Fresh Fruit Pesto Pasta Salad ratatouille Vinaigrette Peel and Eat Shrimp Freshly Prepared Omelets honey cured bacon and Sausage roasted chicken Veronique with creamy Pasta Alfredo Fruit and cheese blintzes Potatoes O’brien Desserts and Pastries
500 Leisure Lane | Sacramento, cA 916.922.2020 | ReseRvations Recommended
BUY 1 GET 1 1/2 OFF EXP 10/23/13
Buy any dinner entree at regular price, get the second for 1/2 OFF! Must present coupon, cannot combine with other discounts. OnE PEr tablE - Valid MOn-thurs Only
The brisket is fantastic—as tender as the first time you held hands with a high-school crush.
Happy Hour Monday – Friday 3–6pm
JuSt Stew’in
waiting for you! So maNy hoT, dEliciouS iTEmS To Warm you uP!
ff f $5 o rder o
any o re* $20 or m4/o 13
Zombie gnomes For those looking for a treat this Halloween, the four-course mystery dinner on Tuesday, October 29, at Capitol Garage could do the trick. But the dinner is not the mystery: The all-vegan menu (with wine) can be previewed at www.meetup.com/ sacvegansociety-org/events/143411272. Diners will be emailed character assignments and “suggested costume” to take part in a delicious plot. Maybe the mystery storyline will be about a society of decaying zombie gnomes, one of whom has gone rogue, wreaking havoc on the others? One can only hope. RSVP at eat@capitolgarage.com to find out. The event begins at 6:30 p.m. at 1500 K Street, and it costs $30-$35 to take part in the food and fun.
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5644 J Street
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Sun-Wed 10:30am - 9:30pm Thurs - Sat 10:30am -10:00pm *Tax not included. Please present coupon. Not valid with any other offers. Not valid with variety platter. Exp. 10/10/13.
www.EatatOpa.cOm
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1315 21st Street, Sacramento 916.441.7100
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The mac and cheese also needs improvement. The Mornay sauce is expertly made, both soft and smooth. Unfortunately, Tank House once again underseasons—the mac lacks an intrigue that a pinch of salt or mustard could muster. As it stands, it’s very bland. Tank House is still young, but the passion and potential are there. In addition, finely cooked brisket and ribs, a stocked bar, swank interior, and late hours will ensure its endearment with the Midtown crowd (and this eater, as well). Seasoning is an issue, though, and mars what could be groundbreaking food. I’m giving three stars, with the hope that on the next visit, a good pinch of salt will bring it to four. Ω
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