Spring/ Summer 2016 Travel Newport

WHAT’S INSIDE 7 COOL POOLS

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#TRAVELNEWPORT We live so much of our lives online, don’t we? It’s so gratifying to get to share our vacations -- and the rest of our lives -- with friends and family around the globe, in real time as our adventures unfold. Here at Travel Newport, we’d like to encourage you to share your good times in Newport with friends via Instagram, Facebook, and other social media.

We’ve included sample Instagram shots from around Newport in this issue, but of course, you’ll outdo us with your own. Make sure to use the hashtag #TravelNewport or tag us with @TravelNewport to share your Newport shots. Find us on Instagram to see pictures from this issue of Travel Newport magazine and the photos tagged by other central coast travelers and locals alike. Let’s see your panoramic beach photos, your food shots, your family having fun at the coast. We look forward to sharing your adventures.

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HIGH TIME FOR HIGH TEA

INDEPENDENCE DAY SPECIAL

YAQUINA BAY BRIDGE TURNS 80

FUN WITH FIDO IN NEWPORT

OREGON COAST AQUARIUM

ROUTE 20 CONSTRUCTION

NEWPORT PROMOTIONAL VIDEO

SUMMER SOLAR ECLIPSE

YOU GOTTA HAVE ART

ELIZABETH STREET INN

AL FRESCO DINING

BUYING FISH ON THE DOCKS

SURFING IN NEWPORT

HIKE MIKE MILLER PARK

MAGNIFICENT MEALS

HATFIELD MARINE SCIENCE CENTER

AGATE BEACH GOLF COURSE

MARINE DISCOVERY TOURS

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Publisher James Rand

FROM THE EDITOR Dear Reader, In preparation for this issue, I thought a lot about Discover Newport’s slogan, “They’re your vacation days. Try something new.”

Why wait until vacation to try something new? What could I try that was new to me, in my own town? The challenge was on: find a new thing or two to try, be a tourist in my own town, see things through the eyes of a visitor.

There’s always something new to try, of course. I started with a stay at the luxurious but cozy Elizabeth Street Inn (p. 48), across town from my house but worlds away. As I drifted off to sleep to the sound of the ocean just yards away from my private balcony, I made a mental note to try new things in my own town more often. I signed up for a seal/ sea lion kiss at the Oregon Coast Aquarium, and received the most bristly, fishy smooch of my life from Max, a 500-pound male sea lion (p. 30). Finally, I found myself wearing a fancy hat at a seating of oh-so-civilized High Tea at the beautiful Grand Victorian B&B (p.

10).

Of course, some of the new things I hope you’ll try in Newport are old hat to us locals: Buy fish directly from the fisherman who caught it (p. 52). Eat at one of our outstanding restaurants (p. 64), or truly “eat out” by finding the perfect picnic spot (p. 50). Walk over the magnificent Yaquina Bay Bridge (p.

16) or play a few holes at the Agate Beach Golf Course (p. 68). Whatever you do, savor your time in our friendly, charming city by the sea. Adventures new and old await. Enjoy!

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Advertising Contacts Barbara Moore, Teresa Barnes, John Anderson, Kathy Wyatt, Sandee Beare Editor Nancy Steinberg Contributors Nancy Steinberg, Rick Beasley, Oregon Coast Aquarium, Fran Mathews, OCCA Cover Photo & Design Nathan Howard & Matt Koyak Photography Nathan Howard, Jo-Hanna Wienert, Luke Whittaker, Oregon Coast Aquarium, Uncage the Soul, OCCA

A Publication of the

Travel Newport is published twice a year by the News-Times. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The News-Times made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.

Contact Us 831 NE Avery St. Newport, OR 97365 541-265-8571 newportnewstimes.com

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Before moving to Oregon from the East Coast, I had a totally warped mental picture of Oregon’s beaches. The Pacific Northwest’s tide pools are so famous that I thought the entire coastline must be rocky, cratered with tide pools everywhere you looked. It wasn’t until I visited, and then moved here, that I realized that most of the beaches are sandy, and tide pools are special gems indeed.

Tide pools form along rocky shores when the tide recedes and leaves seawater in depressions in the rocks. Many animals and plants have evolved to survive and even thrive in the harsh environment of the tide pools, where they can be exposed to intense waves, sun, and wind, and variable temperatures and salinity on a daily basis.

Rocky shorelines are striped – animals and plants colonize them in vertical zones defined by how long and how often they remain submerged. Animals and plants that are most resistant to being left high and dry colonize the highest places in the intertidal zone, and less hardy critters stay at the lower elevations where they are submerged most of the time.

The animals and plants that live in the intertidal are diverse and sometimes bizarre.

While most people are familiar with sea stars and barnacles, fewer have come nose to nose with a nudibranch or a sculpin. Here are a few of the tide pool residents you might meet in Oregon:

Poke around local tide pools and discover some of Newport’s hidden critters

By Nancy Steinberg

Sea stars:

Because they’re not fish, these invertebrates are not referred to as “starfish” any more, but they are still the stars of the intertidal. In Oregon multiple colorful species of sea star are found in tide pools, including the common sea star (also called the purple or ochre sea star, it comes in a range of colors from purple to orange), sunflower star, and Pacific blood star.

Sea urchins:

These spiny orbs are actually closely related to sea stars. We’ve got purple, green, and red species in regional tide pools.

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Sea anemones:

Sea anemones of multiple species are abundant in Oregon tide pools. When underwater, they look like flowers with tentacle-like petals; the tentacles are lined with “nematocysts,” stinging cells that immobilize small fish and other prey (don’t worry – they can’t hurt a person).

When the water recedes and the anemones are exposed, or if they are threatened, they pull their tentacles in and resemble rocks with a dent in the middle. Look for giant green anemones, aggregating anemones, and the delicate pink strawberry anemones.

Nudibranchs:

You have to be patient to see these less-common tide pool denizens.

Nudibranchs, also called sea slugs, are basically snails without shells, but much more beautiful than you’d expect from such a description. While there are nearly 200 species in Northwest tide pools, the most common is the opalescent nudibranch, which has a translucent white body with an orange stripe running down its center.

Hermit crabs:

These delightful tide pool residents can be seen meandering from rock to rock in most tide pools, hunkering down into their shell if disturbed.

Without a shell of

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their own, hermit crabs scavenge shells from dead snails, moving into bigger and bigger homes as they grow. Go ahead and pick them up – they won’t hurt you – but make sure to put them back quickly where you found them.

exposed. Be aware that all low tides are not created equal: the height of high and low tides varies over the lunar

Sculpins:

If you sit quietly by the edge of a single tide pool, you’ll almost certainly catch a tiny, darting shape out of the corner of your eye, and you’ll almost think you imagined it. Yes, there are fish in many tide pools, and tide pool sculpins are among the most common.

This bottom-dwelling fish grows to be only about three inches long, and can change color to blend into its background.

Before we discuss where to go to

see tide pools, the more important question is when to go. The best time for tide pooling is about one to two hours before low tide to give yourself the maximum amount of time with the pools

cycle. Tide pooling is best conducted on a minus tide (lower than the average low tide); many tide tables will indicate “how low” the low tide is. Tides for Newport can be found at www.tides. net/oregon/1794/. Look for negative numbers, which indicate minus tides.

Where should you go? In and near Newport there are a few good spots to explore tide pools. Wonderful tide pools can be found at the Marine Garden at Devil’s Punchbowl State Natural Area in Otter Rock north of Newport – take the beach access to the north of the punchbowl itself. Just north of town there are fantastic tide pools at Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area. Seal Rock State Park, ten miles south of Newport, has some of the best tide pools around, especially at minus tides. If you head even further south, you’ll find lots of tide pools at the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area near Yachats.

Tide pool etiquette is important to understand

before you go. Be aware that the barnacles, mussels, and anemones underfoot are living creatures – try not to step on them. It’s also important to watch your step because algaecovered rocks can be very slippery.

Do not pry animals off of rocks. Leave animals in their tide pools; if you pick up a hermit crab or sculpin, be sure to put it back just where you found it. If you’re lucky, you may see seals hauled out on rocks or shore birds poking along the tide pool edges – keep a distance from these sensitive animals.

When you go, make sure to wear sturdy shoes that you don’t mind dunking in seawater (accidents happen!), and be prepared for our famous changeable coastal weather.

A magnifying lens and a field guide would be helpful for observing and identifying the animals and plants you find. But most of all, bring your sense of curiosity and wonder, and you’ll never be disappointed at the tide pool’s edge.

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Jonesing for scones? Try the delectable and oh-socivilized tea at this Nye Beach inn

By Nancy Steinberg

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Are you feeling a sad emptiness in your life accompanied by an obsessive urge to turn on PBS “just in case?” Have you taken to wearing ascots or elbow-length gloves when you sit down to dinner? Do you find yourself with an inexplicable need to be insulted by Dame Maggie Smith?

Don’t worry, this malady is common: you are suffering from what’s known as DAWS, or Downton Abbey Withdrawal Syndrome.

While the only actual cure involves lots and lots of Netflix, we can ease your symptoms in Newport with High Tea at the Grand Victorian B&B in Nye Beach.

The sea-green, three-story Grand Victorian is a gorgeous, warm, intimate place to stay just steps from the beach and the shops and restaurants of Nye Beach. You don’t have to be a guest of the inn to arrange for High

Tea: tea is laid out by prior arrangement for groups of four or more, generally in the midafternoon. Grand Victorian co-owner Eileen Obteshka makes all of the tea goodies herself, and serves them to guests in the inn’s dining room, appropriately decorated with teacups, floral prints, and lace.

I attended tea recently with a Portland friend in town for a Newport Symphony Orchestra concert, and two friends of hers hailing from Salem and Seattle. It was a delightful afternoon filled with absolutely delicious food, hot tea, and warm conversation.

The first rule of High Tea is, of course, that you need the proper hat. I tried on what I had at home: Cape Cod baseball cap, fleece ski hat, Greek captain’s cap bought on a whim at a local gift shop. Nope – all

Tables of Content

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Eileen offered us a choice of about a halfdozen teas, ranging from Rooibos to Peach Melba to Earl Grey (my choice), each brewed in an individual, unique porcelain teapot.

Our first course was strawberries and Eileen’s homemade clotted cream. When asked for the recipe for the addictive sweet cream, Eileen demurred. “That’s my secret recipe,” she winked.

As we blithely discussed travels, music, and the affairs of the day, Eileen brought out tiered plate stands filled with small sandwiches and treats. The menu included hearty turkey and cranberry, traditional cucumber and dill spread, a delicious deviled egg with a hint of mustard in the yolk filling, and a crisp toast spread with an artichoke

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topping. Sweets included a crumbly scone which could be spread with multiple flavors of jam or more clotted cream (yes, please), and a plate of Eileen’s homemade desserts which rotates depending on her whim. I was particularly fond of her invention, the chocolate velvet cupcake, a rich, extrachocolatey version of red velvet (who needs “red” when you can have more chocolate?).

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The sweet plate was rounded out by a tiny and delicious lemon tartlet and a most excellent oatmeal cookie.

For one of our party who is glutenintolerant, Eileen had prepared gluten-free versions of everything (by prior arrangement), none of which played second fiddle to the regular versions; all received rave reviews. I was particularly impressed with the cucumber sandwich alternative: a section of cucumber stuffed with the creamy dill spread and topped with walnut halves.

We sipped, gabbed, and enjoyed the peaceful ambiance and Eileen’s attentive offers of more hot water for tea. We didn’t feel it necessary to stick

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out our pinky fingers while sipping, but we did feel we’d escaped the ordinary for a couple of hours.

A brief tour of the beautiful Grand Victorian followed. The magnificent lobby staircase brought us up to the guest rooms, all tastefully decorated with vintage items, including claw-foot tubs, wonderful antique furnishings,

and even Eileen’s mother’s 1930s-era ivory wedding dress. The third-floor Victoria Suite is particularly lovely, with an expansive view of the ocean, cozy sitting area, and jetted spa tub with ocean view with room for two. A

separate two-bedroom cottage on the property is also a great lodging option.

It includes an ocean-view sun porch, living room with a cozy gas fireplace, a full kitchen, and a laundry room with washer and dryer.

All Grand Victorian stays include appetizers at check-in, dessert in the evening, and a hearty, home-cooked candlelight breakfast. The inn happily accommodates small weddings, which can be held in the inn or on the beach.

Eileen’s husband, Terry, can even officiate!

Make sure to reserve tea ahead of time by calling the Grand Victorian at 800-784-9936 or emailing the Obteshkas at GrandVictorian@charter. net. More information can be found at grandvictorianor.com. Don’t worry about packing your fancy hat – Eileen’s got you covered!

A Whiz-Bang Independence Day Newport’s got what you need for the best July 4 ever

By Nancy Steinberg

Fireworks? Check. Sousa marches?

Check. Awesome beer? We got it. Sand and surf? None better. There is no more perfect place to celebrate Independence Day than Newport. Here’s a perfect July 4, all planned out for you. Let the celebration begin!

8:30 am: Kick the day off right with a 5K, 10K, or half marathon trail race. Ardor Adventures will present the third annual 4th of July Celebration Run, which will include the three race options this year.

The race begins and ends near Big Creek Park in Newport, with routes that will offer panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, the Yaquina Bay Bridge, and Big Creek reservoir.

The races will be followed with a barbeque and beer for the grownups. For registration and more information about this and other running events throughout the year, see Ardor Adventures’ web site at www. ardoradventures.com.

11 am: Stock up on provisions for your picnic or barbecue at Rogue Ales’ garage sale, held every holiday weekend at the brewery in South Beach. Great bargains are to be had on Rogue’s best brews and gear like t-shirts and pint glasses. You could also stop in the brewery itself for lunch, if you’re not stuffed from the post-race barbeque, overlooking scenic South Beach Marina.

2122 SE Marine Science Drive.

1 pm: You can’t skip a little beach time on July 4. Now is a good time to build a sand castle, fly a kite, surf some waves, or just hang at the beach.

4 pm: It’s time for some patriotic music to really get you in the spirit of the 4th. The Newport Symphony Orchestra offers a free pops concert to the community every 4th of July, courtesy of some generous business sponsors, including Mo’s Restaurants, Oregon Coast Bank, and Bigfoot Beverages.

This popular event, at Newport Middle School (825 NE 7th St.), attracts hundreds of attendees every year who tap and clap along with Sousa marches, Broadway favorites, and the orchestra’s annual salute to our armed forces. This year, Katie Harman, Oregon’s own Miss America (2002), brings her incredible vocal talent to the concert. Music Director Adam Flatt conducts. Admission is free, and doors open at 3 pm. See www. newportsymphony.org for more information.

Dusk: Newport’s fireworks display never fails to amaze and delight. Fireworks are set off from a barge in Yaquina Bay at dusk (around 9 pm). Good viewing areas include anywhere along the Bayfront and from the Yaquina Bay Bridge (on foot!). One super option that will get you up close to the action is to go out with Marine Discovery Tours, which offers special fireworks cruises on

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theAfter the fireworks, it’s another Saturday summer night in Newport, and the regular haunts will all be open: Café Mundo, the Sand Bar, and Nana’s in Nye Beach, the Barge Inn and Rogue Ales Public House on the Bayfront, and many more. Enjoy your holiday!

Celebrations to the North and South

Unique and fun Independence Day celebrations can be found to the north and south of Newport, as well. Here is some other regional July 4 fun:

Yachats: La-De-Da Parade Yachats, 25 miles south of Newport, always marches to the beat of a different drummer, so why should July 4 be any different? This may be the weirdest July 4 parade in the state. Anyone can enter, and wackiness is heartily encouraged.

Parade organizers particularly encourage entries that incorporate forest, ocean, wind, rain, and nautical themes. For more information, see www.yachats.org.

Waldport: Early Fireworks One night of fireworks is never enough in early July, so Waldport traditionally holds their town’s display on the night of July 3. Fireworks are set off over the bay, so any of the bayshore beaches or even the Alsea Bay Bridge are good spots for watching. The booms begin at dusk.

Gleneden Beach: More Quirkiness Abounds This July 4 parade in this small town between Newport and Lincoln City might give Yachats a run for its money in terms of quirkiness and grassrootsy fun. Like the La-De-Da Parade, this parade takes all comers, even on the day of the parade.

There is usually a drill team marching in nothing resembling a formation at all, carrying power drills. Dogs are offered prime spots in the parade. A community breakfast is offered before the parade, along with vendors, clowns, and more at Eden Hall on the Gleneden loop. All the info is at www.glenedenbeach.org.

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Newport’s Historic Bayfront Shop, Play, Dine & Stay...

© Forinash Gallery

H Family Attractions H Waterfront Lodging H Fresh Seafood, dining or off the docks H Fishing Fleet H Coast Guard Station H Commercial & Recreational Gear & Marine Supplies H Crabbing Piers H Taffy H Sea Lion Colony & Birding H Wine Tasting H Gift & Art Galleries H Sport Fishing H Whale Watching H Group Cruises H Kayaking H Sailboats H Fishermen’s Memorial Walk H Microbrews H Chowder H Pubs H Night Life H

The BAYFRONT ANCHOR PIER LODGE 541-265-STAY AnchorPierLodge.com

LOCAL OCEAN 541-574-7959 LocalOcean.net

ASIATICO WATERFRONT FUSION SUSHI 541-265-8387 AsiaticoFusion.net

M & P AUTHENTIC THAI CUISINE 541-264-8388 NewportThaiFood.com

BAYSCAPES GALLERY & COFFEEHOUSE 541-265-4017 EMBARCADERO RESORT HOTEL & MARINA 541-265-8521 800-547-4779 EmbarcaderoResort.com ENGLUND MARINE & INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY 541-265-9275 EnglundMarine.com FORINASH GALLERY 541-265-8483 ForinashGallery.com

MARINE DISCOVERY TOURS 541-265-6200 MarineDiscoveryTours.com MO’S & MO’S ANNEX 541-265-7512 MosChowder.com NEWPORT BAY CANDLE CO. 541-574-0034 NewportBayCandle.com NEWPORT TRADEWINDS 541-265-2101 1-800-676-7819 NewportTradewinds.com

RIPLEY’S BELIEVE IT OR NOT! UNDERSEA GARDENS & THE WAXWORKS 541-265-2206 MarinerSquare.com SAFFRON SALMON 541- 265-8921 SaffronSalmon.com SURF TOWN COFFEE & TILLAMOOK ICE CREAM 541-265-2208 SurfTownCoffee.com

THE LANDING AT NEWPORT 541-574-6777 TheLandingAtNewport.com WIND DRIFT GALLERY & CHILDISH TENDENCIES 541-265-7454 541-265-4491 Find us both on Facebook

OCEANIC ARTS & BREACH THE MOON GALLERIES 541-265-5963 541-265-9698

A Neighborhood of Fun for Locals & Visitors 15

Newport’s iconic Yaquina Bay Bridge turns 80

By Nancy Steinberg

Perhaps Newport’s most iconic landmark is the gorgeous Yaquina Bay Bridge. More than just a way to cross the bay, the bridge is an ambassador for the city and a magnificent piece of art-deco architecture. This year the bridge is 80 years old, and as photogenic as ever – may we all look that good at 80! To celebrate our octogenarian bridge, here’s a little history.

As the U.S. struggled in the grasp of the Great Depression, President Roosevelt authorized the Works Progress Administration (WPA) to fund infrastructure and public works projects across the nation 16 and employ those out of work. The Oregon

State Highway Commission used WPA funds to undertake the construction of five bridges along the Oregon coast (the spans that cross Yaquina Bay, Alsea Bay in Waldport, the Siuslaw River in Florence, the Umpqua River in Reedsport, and Coos Bay), under the leadership of Conde B. McCullough, head of the Bridge Division of the Oregon Department of Transportation. McCullough himself designed all of the bridges, and in fact designed nine others along Highway 101 in Oregon (and hundreds of others throughout Oregon and beyond). His bridges are known for their architectural beauty, and many, including the Yaquina Bay Bridge, are on the

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National Register of Historic Places.

Construction on the cement and steel structure got underway in August of 1934, signaling the impending end of the era of having to take a ferry to cross the bay. The general contractors, Gilpin Construction Company of Portland and the General Construction Company of Seattle, employed more than 200 men on the project. Total payroll amounted to about $5,000 per week (hourly rates started at about fortyfive cents per hour). Additional employment came about as the Consolidated Highway Company constructed the road spurs leading to the north and south approaches to the bridge. Local restaurants and merchants reaped the benefits of having these new faces, and paychecks, in town.

Much of the work was done by hand, according to “The Bayfront Book” by Steve Wyatt. “Use of machinery was kept to a minimum to create as many jobs as possible.

Workers were placed on a six-day, thirtyhour work week, enabling two shifts a day,” Wyatt wrote. The bridge was constructed starting at the two ends, with the central arch meeting in the middle (some reports indicate that a measurement error nearly resulted in a mismatch, but all was well when the two sides joined in the middle of the bay!).

Although many men worked in precarious positions high above the water, often during

hazardous weather conditions, bridge construction only took one life, that of 36-year-old Ted McDaniel, who fell 110 feet to his death.

Completed on September 6 and opened to traffic, more than 5,190 cars drove over the bridge in its first 10 hours of service. The bridge is 3,260 feet long, and the main arch is 246 feet above sea level at its highest point.

It was constructed at a cost of $1,301,016 (about $22,190,000 in today's dollars), and used 30,000 cubic yards of concrete and more than 3,000 tons of steel.

There are many spots from which you can get a great view of the bridge, but it’s even more fun to get a view from the bridge by walking across its half-mile span.

A pedestrian/bike walkway is built into both sides of the road on the bridge, pedestrian access staircases are located at both ends, and the view is stupendous. On the north side, park along the road near Yaquina Bay State Park, or in the park’s parking lot for a bit of a longer walk to the bridge access. On the south side, park near the Rogue Brewery and access the stairs there on either the east or west sides of the bridge.

It’s also pretty cool to walk or ride a bike under the bridge. A bike and pedestrian path extends from SW 26th St. (the road leading to the South Jetty), under the bridge and by the Rogue, and all the way to the end of Marine

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Science Drive where the NOAA ships facility is. If you hook this trail up to the paved biking trail at South Beach State Park, which is easily accessed from SW 26th St., you have a wonderful, family-friendly outing (bonus: lunch or dinner at the brewery!).

Wherever you go to enjoy the Yaquina Bay Bridge, make sure to say a quiet thankyou to Conde McCullough, whose vision and talent created such beauty in Newport. And tell the bridge she looks great for an eightyyear-old!

For More Information For more information about the bridge or Conde McCullough, check these excellent books: Bridges of the Oregon Coast by Ray Bottenberg, Arcadia Publishing (2006) Love and the Green Lady: Meditations on the Yaquina Bay Bridge: Oregon's Crown Jewel of Socialism by Matt Love, Nestucca Spit Press (2011) Elegant Arches, Soaring Spans: C.B. McCullough, Oregon's Master Bridge Builder by Robert W. Hadlow, Oregon State University Press (2001) The Bayfront Book by Steve Wyatt, Lincoln County Historical Society (1999)

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FUN WITH FIDO IN NEWPORT Tips for keeping those tails wagging while visiting dog nirvana at the coast

By Nancy Steinberg

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Don’t you hate that look your dog gives you when you pack to go on vacation? You know the one. When the suitcases come out, so do the puppy dog eyes. “Can I come?” they plead.

If you’re heading to Newport, the answer should be a resounding “Yes! Go pack your collar and tennis ball!” Dogs are welcome in Newport, from hotels to beaches to (some) restaurants. Here’s how to keep your furry friend happy while you’re here.

Newport Belle: This unique bed and breakfast, a historic riverboat moored at the South Beach Marina, has one pet-friendly room for an extra fee of $25 per night.

Reserve early! www. newportbelle. com

Where to Stay

Most Newport hotels allow dogs for an extra fee, while rental properties are more variable. Campgrounds most definitely allow dogs, but they must be leashed. Dogs generally can’t be left alone in hotel rooms, and must be leashed on hotel grounds. Here are the pet guidelines at a few of the many local accommodations that allow dogs:

Agate Beach Motel: Dogs under 70 lbs are welcome for a $20 fee per night. www.agatebeachmotel.com

Best Western Agate Beach Inn: Pets allowed in specific rooms for $20 per night up to a total of no more than $100. www.bestwesternoregon.com/hotels/bestwestern-agate-beach-inn

Elizabeth Street Inn: Five pet-friendly rooms available for a $25 fee (total for your entire stay). Weight (under 75 lbs) and breed restrictions apply. www.elizabethstreetinn.com

The Whaler Motel: Dogs allowed in petfriendly rooms for $10 per day. The Whaler also operates a few vacation rental homes, which all allow dogs. www.whalernewport.com

Fairhaven Vacation Rentals: Three lovely cottage homes in Nye Beach, reminiscent of San Francisco Victorian houses. All three take dogs for an extra $10 per night, by prior arrangement only. www.fairhavenvacationrentals.com

Where to Eat

Your four-footed family member doesn’t need to be left behind when you go out to eat in Newport. Try one of these places with dog-friendly outdoor seating.

Panini Bakery: Your dog may be up-and-at‘em without the need for caffeine, but you want a latte (and maybe a scone or muffin). Why not get the best latte in Newport, and take your dog along? Panini Bakery in Nye Beach has a few outdoor seats, and dogs are often tied up outside if owners want to be indoors instead.

You can get the dog a house-made dog biscuit while you’re there.

232 NW Coast St.

Nana’s Irish Pub: Nana’s has great food, great drinks, and a great atmosphere inside and out, right in the heart of Nye Beach. Patio seating allows dogs.

613 NW 3rd St.

Café Stephanie: Another Nye Beach favorite for breakfast and lunch, Café Stephanie has

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outdoor seating where well-behaved dogs are

welcome.

Museum. But dogs need fun too – here are some options.

411 NW Coast St.

Rogue Ales Public House: The Rogue loves dogs (see info about the Brewer’s Memorial Alefest, below). Rogue Ales Public House on the Bayfront has outdoor patio seating where dogs are more than welcome, and might even be offered a treat while they’re there.

748 SW Bay Blvd.

Where to Play

OK, so your dog is not welcome at the aquarium, or on a Marine Discovery Tours cruise, or inside the Ripley’s Believe it or Not

Beaches: The obvious place to take your dog for a romp in Newport is the beach.

Most beach access points in Newport are operated by Oregon State Parks, which has just instituted new (and more permissive!) rules for dogs on beaches. Chris Havel, of Oregon State Parks, summarizes the rules this way: “Carry a leash. Keep your dog in sight and under voice control. If you can’t control the animal, and it’s interfering with people, wildlife, or anything else, you’ll need to leash it.” In addition, dogs must be on a leash in a state park before you reach the sand (in the parking area, near restrooms, on trails leading to the beach, and so on). Don’t forget that tennis ball!

Trails: Away from the sand there are trails for dog walking as well. One option is Forest Park, a Newport city park which contains a one-mile wooded trail that runs between the Newport Municipal Pool (1212 NE Fogarty St.) and Big Creek Park

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(2510 NE Big Creek Rd.). Another citymaintained trail runs from near Big Creek Park through the woods to Agate Beach.

South Beach State Parks contains both paved and wooded walking trails.

Dog Parks: Newport has two off-leash dog parks where dogs can run and make friends. One is north of the center of town, the Agate Beach Dog Park on NW 60th St. The other is within the Wilder housing development in South Beach on SE College Way (near the Oregon Coast Community College campus). Both are fenced and have water available.

Other Doggy Delights

Grooming: If you get a spa treatment on vacation, why can’t your dog? Options include MoonDoggy Daycare & Spa (208

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NW 12th Street, (541) 265-4592); Pet Bath and Beyond (644 SW Coast Highway, Suite E., (541) 265-4453), and Four Paws Pet Grooming (549 NE 1st St., (541) 265-5443).

Pet Supplies: Does Fifi need a new collar? Have you, God forbid, run out of dog treats? You can fix these and other pet supply problems at many places in Newport, including: Fred Meyer (150 NE 20th St.) WalMart (160 NW 25th St.) Feed Corral (634 N Coast Highway 101) Mini Pet Mart (1740 N Coast Highway 101) Bowwow Meow (456 SW Bay Blvd.)

Brewer’s Memorial Ale Fest: A brewfest for dogs? You betcha. Rogue Brewery celebrates two of the best things in the world – beer and dogs – at this annual event in May, a tribute to Rogue Ales’ founding dog, Brewer. The event includes 30+ microbrews, live music, doggy musical chairs, a dog wash, dog dancing, and celebrity dog look-alike contests. There’s no better time to bring your dog to Newport.

Jennifer Sears Glass Art Studio

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Located 8 miles north of Newport in the coastal village of Otter Rock.

Up close and personal with local sea life No visit to Newport is complete without a stop at the Oregon Coast Aquarium overlooking scenic Yaquina Bay just south of the city’s iconic bridge. The Aquarium strives to be a center of excellence for ocean literacy and fun, and plays an active role in conservation, education and animal rehabilitation efforts. The Aquarium’s worldclass indoor and outdoor exhibits have earned the facility consistent recognition as one of the top ten aquariums in the country.

Guests can discover the mysterious world of underwater archaeology in the special exhibit, “Secrets of Shipwrecks: Part History. Part Mystery.” A wander through 1.32-million gallons of seawater in Passages of the Deep immerses visitors into the world of local

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marine life – including over 100 sharks.

The series of tunnels feature 360 degree views of three different kinds of landscapes an underwater explorer might find off the Oregon Coast.

For fans of fuzz, the Aquarium’s sea otters’ and their playful antics provide endless entertainment. Keep an eye out for pups Nuka and Oswald, the most recent additions to this all-male raft of rescued otters from California and Alaska coasts. Guests can view their training progress during three daily public

feedings.

Meet the Aquarium’s seals and sea lions through the submerged and above water viewing windows that let visitors peer into their world. Daily feeding presentations are a favorite of guests who delight in viewing the California sea lions’ athleticism at work.

For an unforgettable behind the scenes experience, book a whiskery kiss delivered by one of the Aquarium’s seals or sea lions (see sidebar)! individuals. Guests may schedule an octopus The Aquarium also boasts the largest encounter to feed and shake suckers with walk-through outdoor seabird aviary in the one of these intelligent, seemingly alien United States. Tufted and horned puffins, animals. common murres, rhinoceros auklets, pigeon The Oregon Coast Aquarium opened its guillemots and black oystercatchers all call doors in 1992 to inspire the public to better the craggy cliffs and clear water home. Daily understand, cherish and conserve marine and feedings at 2:30 p.m. delight visitors of all coastal ecosystems. Built on an abandoned ages as each bird larks about to eat the fishes of their choice. In addition to the Seabird Aviary, the Aquarium is also home to two turkey vultures. Guests are often surprised by the size of the brother and sister pair, Ichabod and Olive, who busy themselves with toys and other enrichment items, and sometimes leave their exhibit to meet visitors on a keeper’s glove.

A nearby underwater cave is inhabited by a Giant Pacific Octopus. Viewers sometimes need to stretch their powers of observation to spot the creature, which can camouflage with its environment and squeeze its soft body into dark crags. Researchers now believe that octopuses are as MarineDiscoveryTours.com smart as house cats, capable of navigating mazes, using simple tools and recognizing 29

industrial site, the Aquarium did a lot of work to transform the grounds into an expansive naturescape for guests to explore. The north end of the property is dedicated to a nature trail that skirts an estuary – a unique feature for an aquarium. This wild exhibit features over one hundred native plant species, many of them labeled to continue the Aquarium’s education program for guests.

The Aquarium is open daily in the summertime (beginning May 28), 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. To check for discounts, purchase tickets and learn more, visit www.aquarium. org. Oregon Coast Aquarium is located at 2820 SE Ferry Slip Road, Newport. For more information, call (541) 867-3474.

Seal-ed with a Kiss

To have a close encounter with the pinnipeds of the Oregon Coast Aquarium, book a Seal and Sea Lion Kiss

You never forget your first kiss. I can picture it now. We were behind the scenes in an off-limits area of the Oregon Coast Aquarium. The bristly whiskers, the vaguely fishy scent, the sleek fur … what a guy. Post-smooch, he leaped back into the nearby pool and swam off. Swoon!

The cad in question was Max, the aquarium’s 500-pound California sea lion, my partner for a Seal and Sea Lion Kiss Encounter, a special way to get close to some of the aquarium’s most charismatic residents. Visitors are invited to sign up to meet one of the aquarium’s harbor seals or California sea lions (the mammal staff will choose for you), at

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which you’ll get the kiss, and photo-op, of your life.

Kissees, in groups of no more than 10, begin in a classroom with an aquarium educator learning a bit about these animals before being led behind the scenes to the marine mammal pools. A marine mammologist then tells guests more about the animals, explaining how they are trained to exhibit behaviors on command to help aquarium staff keep the animals healthy. Max exhibited a range of behaviors, from lying down to opening his mouth, rewarded for every right move with fish. Then I stood next to a platform, Max sauntered over, and on command he planted a whiskery, fishy kiss on my cheek. It was utterly delightful.

Kiss encounters are offered Friday through Monday during the summer at 2:15 pm for guests age 8 and older. Guests are encouraged to reserve online or by phone ahead of their visit, as spots fill up. The encounters are $35 for members and $40 for non-members, and for an extra fee the aquarium’s photographer will capture the moment from the perfect vantage point (guests are also welcome to bring their own cameras and take photos from a bit farther away). The encounter is 20-30 minutes long.

Reservations are available by visiting aquarium.org/animal-encounters-and-tours/ or calling (541) 867-3474.

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Route 20 construction will finally be wrapping up this summer. In the meantime, Newport is most definitely open for business.

By Nancy Steinberg

US Route 20 traverses the entire U.S., running 3,365 miles from Boston, MA to Newport. The longest road in the United States, it passes through the south side of Chicago, Yellowstone National Park, the cities of Toledo, Ohio and Toledo, Oregon, and hundreds of other cities and towns. It runs right by the actual field in Dubuque, IA where “Field of Dreams” was filmed. And it forms Main Street in my hometown nine miles east of Boston.

US 20’s beautiful westernmost 50 miles are an important conduit for bringing visitors from the Willamette Valley to Newport, and as many Oregonians and all Newportians know, this stretch has been under construction for what seems like forever. The good news is that the end is in sight, and although there 32

will be some inconveniences to travelers this summer, Newport is most definitely open for business, and with a little planning, visitors will be able to avoid most delays.

The goal of the construction is to straighten out a dangerous, twisty stretch of road between mile markers 13 and 23. Along this portion of the road there have been an average of 22 accidents and two fatalities per year, according to Jerry Wolcott, US 20 project leader with the Oregon Department of Transportation (ODOT). In addition, some freight traffic to Newport can’t use 20 because of the limitations of that stretch; about 80 trucks per day have to get to Newport via Rte. 18 and Lincoln City, adding significantly to their travel time.

A contractor began work on the road-

straightening project in 2005, but after myriad problems and delays that contract was terminated in 2012 and ODOT took the reins. Since then, they’ve been working on pieces of the project that are largely out of view of the traveling public, putting sections of the new road in place. The final phase of the project is nearly ready to begin, which will straighten a dangerous curve at the western end of the span of road at about mile marker 16.

The contractor will have to remove 350,000 tons of dirt and rocks, first clearing the path for the road by blasting and then removing the debris. They will add a large culvert intended as a passageway for wildlife to cross under the road (the culvert will be 28 feet in diameter to accommodate animals up to the size of elk). Then the road itself has to be paved, striped, and signed. This extensive work will require road closures of varying lengths throughout the summer.

Once a contractor is chosen, work will begin in June, with closures of up to two hours once a day, six days per week.

Scattered delays of up to 20 minutes will

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also occur. Beginning on July 16, the blasting work will commence in earnest, requiring overnight 10-hour closures. The contractors may require shorter or fewer closures; it’s important to note that these closures represent a worst-case scenario.

“The crew will need to blast and then check for unexploded ordnance during daylight hours, so they’ll use the last two hours of light to do that,” Wolcott explained.

Then they’ll work for eight more hours. In practical terms, that means the road will be closed between about 6 pm and 4 am, as many as six days per week. This plan

be in October, a new, safer, faster route to Newport will be in place. A curvy, 10.5-mile section of road will be straightened and reduced to 5.5 miles, cutting ten minutes off of the trip from the valley to the coast. The road will be safer, smoother, and easier to drive. At the crest of the Coast Range there will be passing lanes in both directions. And if you’re struck with nostalgia and want to take the meandering old route, it will still be there: that section of US 20 will become a county road, named Crystal Creek Loop, and will be as lovely as ever if you want to take it slow on your way to Newport.

may change slightly when ODOT hires the contractor in late May. “We got feedback from the local community that it’s probably best to keep the road open on Friday nights, so they’ll likely take Friday night off,” Wolcott said.

At the end of the project, projected to

What can travelers do to avoid getting stuck? The most important tip is to use Tripcheck, ODOT’s traffic and road condition tracking system. Travelers can use the Tripcheck web site, www.tripcheck.org, which is easily used on mobile devices, or call 511 for road information.

Another option is to take an alternate route to Newport from the Valley. Options include:

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Most of all, be patient, and plan ahead.

The grey whales, tide pools, Oregon Coast Aquarium, Mo’s chowder, Yaquina Head lighthouse, and miles of beaches await your arrival – it’s all still here, waiting for you!

For more information and updates about the project, and to sign up for e-mail alerts related to US 20 construction, be sure to visit www.us20pme.com.

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THEY’RE YOUR VACATIO DO SOM

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ON DAYS, METHING

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How many times have you heard “Will you play with me?”

In Newport, the answer is always “Yes!” Use your vacation to romp on miles of pristine beaches, spy on a sea otter at the Oregon Coast Aquarium, or climb all 114 steps of the Yaquina Head Lighthouse.

DISCOVER 1-800-coast44

, OREGON. discovernewport.com 37

Discover Newport releases the ultimate promotional video

By Nancy Steinberg

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Absolutely everyone should watch the stunning promotional video about Newport produced by Uncage the Soul Video Production and released last summer. No excuses - it will take less time to watch the video than to pop the popcorn to accompany it. Even those of us who live here can watch it again and again, always finding something new in its creative, engaging two and a half minutes. Beyond a simple tourism plug, the video uses masterful storytelling techniques to create a piece of art.

Uncage the Soul, based in Portland, was founded by Oregon native John Waller in 2004; he brought in award-winning photographer, Ben Canales, as a partner four years later. It is too simple to call Uncage the Soul a video production company -- it is perhaps more accurate to say that John and Ben are story-tellers who integrate story, characters, images, music, and a little bit of magic to engage their audiences in an adventure. They have produced commercial video for such clients as Nike and Stella

Story board art courtesy of Uncage the Soul.

Artois, as well as promotional pieces for Travel Oregon, the Oregon Coast Visitors Association, and others. They have also produced incredible documentary features whose subjects include a pristine slot canyon in the Oregon Cascades (“Valhalla”) and the Sandy Glacier Cave system on Mt. Hood (“Requiem of Ice”).

“We’re known for cinematic content grounded in good storytelling,” explains Waller. “We love to share interesting people, places, and ideas, and our clients generally share that aspiration.”

Waller was excited to take on the Newport project, commissioned by the city’s Destination Newport committee, and was impressed with the investment the city was willing to make. “Newport was the first small city that invested in a project of this scale with us. We knew the city was taking a risk, and so we wanted to deliver something that surpassed their expectations,” Waller says.

“We really wanted to get it right.”

In planning for the project, Waller drew on his intimate familiarity with the town, having visited many times and having just spent time on the coast producing a promotional video for the Oregon Coast Visitors Association.

He and Canales scouted the town, talked to as many people as they could, and made lists of potential shots. “We wanted to find out what Newport experiences hadn’t been covered” he says.

He and his team then undertook an extensive storyboarding process in which

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they chose not only what types of activities and places to capture, but planning out the exact shots they would take while here. “We plan it all out, shot by shot,” Waller explains.

“We weave the story line together, so by the time we arrived in Newport to shoot, we knew the exact composition of the shots we wanted.” As a result of their meticulous planning, they were able to capture what they needed in a few hours, which was eventually edited down to about two and a half minutes.

Each Uncage the Soul production is like a layer cake, Waller says. “The video is one of those layers, but the music and soundtrack, the characters, the lighting and post-production, all of these things work together” to create the unique look and feel of one of their short films. The Discover Newport video is no exception.

The blend of creative cinematography, upbeat soundtrack, compelling characters, gorgeous scenery, and let’s face it, the charismatic City of Newport itself, combine to make an incredible final product.

The most extraordinary segment of the short film is the aerial footage of Newport’s Fourth of July fireworks, the largest display on the coast, taken from a drone. “We had been working on developing the process for flying a drone around something for a ‘Matrix’ – type effect, so we thought ‘What if we did that?’” Waller says. This single segment took an incredible amount of planning, including plotting the exact path of the drone using GPS coordinates. Variables of wind and weather had to work out just right. FAA and other permissions needed to be obtained.

And they’d get only one shot at it.

Because they had a remote feed on the ground displaying the footage being taken by the drone-mounted camera, the team knew immediately that they had nailed it.

But they couldn’t relax until the drone was back on the ground and in their hands. They were finally able to celebrate when it landed

safely.

The results of the drone gamble are nothing short of spectacularly beautiful. In order to heighten anticipation of the full video’s release, Uncage the Soul produced a short teaser focused on the process of obtaining the fireworks footage. It was released about a week before the full video, and created a lot of buzz itself.

Both the fireworks teaser video and the full video are available on the Discover Newport web site (discovernewport.com).

The film is being used by the city and other entities in tourism marketing efforts, and short clips were used in a series of television commercials. Local businesses are being encouraged to embed the video on their own web sites and use it in their social media campaigns. And locals, proud of where they live, have been sharing it on social media since it was released last summer.

“The best compliment is when people who live and work in a place take pride in what they see in one of our videos, and share it as a good representation of their home,” Waller says.

Mission accomplished.

Watch the Video!

Find Uncage the Soul’s Newport video, as well as the teaser that serves as a behind-the-scenes tour of the making of the fireworks clip, at discovernewport. com.

Waller’s Top Five

John Waller got to spend a lot of time in Newport as he prepared for and shot the Discover Newport film. What made him fall in love with Newport? He had trouble narrowing down his list, but here are John Waller’s top picks:

1. Passages of the Deep at the

Oregon Coast Aquarium: “That immersive experience is supercool no matter your age.”

2. Local Ocean restaurant on the Bayfront: “The view, the food, and the atmosphere are all great.”

3. Sylvia Beach Hotel in Nye Beach: “It’s such a cool hotel – you can cozy away in rooms filled with books, and I love the community feel of the dinners.”

4. Bonfire on the beach: “It’s just magic.”

5. Sea lions on the Bayfront:

“They’re so funny! I could just watch them for an hour and laugh!”

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Make plans now to be in Newport for the August 2017 total solar eclipse

By Nancy Steinberg

Dark days are ahead for Newport.

OK, really just dark minutes, less than two of them, to be precise.

People from all over the globe will be flocking to Newport in August of 2017 to witness one of the most spectacular celestial events observable in North America this century: a rare total solar eclipse. The prime viewing path, or “path of totality,” along which the entire sun will appear to be covered by the moon, passes right through Lincoln County before crossing the rest of the country all the way to South Carolina.

A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes between the sun and the Earth.

Only rarely is the path of the moon, and the apparent size of the moon based on its distance from us, perfectly aligned such that it completely covers the sun, resulting in a total eclipse. The last one with a path that crossed the entire continental United States was in 1918, and the next will be in 2024 (with a path going from Texas to Maine, so

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Oregon will be out of luck).

On August 21, 2017, the eclipse’s shadow, called the umbral shadow, will make landfall in North America between Newport and Lincoln City at about 10:15 am. We will be plunged into semi-darkness for about one minute and fifty-eight seconds, during which it will be safe to look directly at the eclipse without special eye gear (needed during the rest of the eclipse to avoid looking directly at the sun). The sun’s corona, or extended outer atmosphere, is only visible to the naked eye during a total eclipse. The path of totality then continues through Oregon and across the entire continental United States.

Is “close” to the path of totality close enough? Not according to the proprietors of the web site www.eclipse2017.org, who state, “Our task is to convince people who are not in the path of totality, that they simply must travel into the path, in order to see one of the most spectacular things they will ever see in their life. … just as the person who only smells the meal outside the steakhouse remains hungry, so too do those who observe the eclipse from outside the path of totality end the day wondering what, indeed, all the fuss was about.”

Local lodgings are already filling up with national and international eclipse-hunters, so be sure to reserve a spot now in order to be part of this rare and amazing event. Portland, Eugene, and Bend are not along the path of totality, so come join us here!

For more information about the eclipse, see www.eclipse2017.org or www. greatamericaneclipse.com.

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43

As the summer heats up, so do the arts in Newport

By Nancy Steinberg

Summer in Newport means sand castles, sunsets, surfing, and salt water taffy. But summer also burns bright in the Newport arts community, with sensational offerings from symphonic music to science illustration to Shakespeare to staggering singing stars. The performing and visual arts are critical threads in the fabric of Newport life, and both thrive in two fantastic municipal venues, as well as in galleries, studios, and performance spaces all over the city. The City of Newport operates the municipal Performing Arts Center (PAC) and the Visual Arts

44

Center (VAC), both of which have exciting summer plans to delight visitors and locals alike. Over the coming months, you’ll find international superstars Judy Collins and Loudon Wainwright III stopping by the PAC, a set of local playwrights locked in the PAC overnight to write short plays that will be performed less than 24 hours later, an exhibit of scientific illustrations depicting the influence of the changing seasons on the natural world, and a high-definition broadcast of National Theatre London’s “Hamlet” starring Benedict Cumberbatch.

But wait, there’s more! Read on to see what the summer arts scene holds.

Summer at the PAC The PAC is the premiere performance venue on the Oregon coast, housing the 400-seat Silverman Theater and the 80seat Studio Theater. It is home to a group of resident companies that produce a wide range of music, theatre, and dance performances, keeping the building buzzing year-round. It also serves touring artists, nonprofits, for profits,

2016 Summer Season Spectacular!

Saturday, June 18 - 7:30 p.m.

Direct from New York - A Broadway Romance • Performing Arts Center

The Newport Symphony Monday, July 4 FREE July Fourth Concert & BBQ BBQ 2:30 p.m. - Concert 4:00 p.m.

Newport Middle School - 825 NE 7th

Friday, July 8 & Saturday, July 9 - 7:30 p.m.

The legendary Judy Collins performs with the Symphony!

Two big shows at the Performing Arts Center Tickets & Information at NewportSymphony.org

Adam Flatt – Music Director | David Odgen Stiers – Resident Conductor | NewportSymphony.org

and individuals as space permits.

The PAC transmits Met Opera Live simulcasts in high definition (HD), National Theatre London Live in HD, Broadway plays in HD, Great Art on Screen and hosts a film series.

Cudia and Elena Shaddow June 24, 7 p.m. – National Theatre Live from London: “Les Liaisons Dangereuses (Dangerous Liaisons)�

Theatre Camp performances: Camp attendees present their final skits, the culmination of their work at Theatre Camp

Upcoming events include May 6-7, 7 p.m. & May 8, 2 p.m. – “Kidstuff,� A Mother's Day Celebration (T.J. Hoofers benefit, featuring Dance! And All That Jazz! dancers) May 13-15 – Oregon Coast Ballet Company presents Newport School of Dance students in “Growing Up Dancing,� a free recital – check coastarts.org for times.

May 20-21, 27-28 7 p.m., & May 23, 29, 2 p.m.– Pacific Dance Ensemble: “Peter Pan�

July 29-31, Aug. 5-7, 12-14 – Porthole Players: “Sex Please We're Sixty� – times TBA June 25, 7:30 p.m. – Pendleton Men's Chorus in concert – check coastarts.org for time

Aug. 11, 2 & 6 p.m. – OCCA Shakespeare Camp performances

July 2, 8 p.m. – Red Octopus Theatre Company: “One Day to Play,� A 24Hour Theatre Event

Aug. 19, 7 p.m. – National Theatre Live from London: “Hamlet� starring Benedict Cumberbatch. Encore presentation Sept. 17, 7:30 p.m. – Loudon Wainwright III in concert: a fundraiser for the “Entertain the Future!� capital campaign to expand and enhance the Newport Performing Arts Center

June 2-3, 7 p.m. – 7th Street Players: “Disney's The Little Mermaid Jr.�

June 11, 7 p.m. – An evening with Halie Loren & friends, featuring performances by nationally acclaimed jazz vocalist Halie Loren along with the Halie Loren Quartet and halie and the moon June 12 – Oregon Coastalaires: “American Barbershop Harmony� – check coastarts.org for times June 18, 7:30 p.m. – Newport Symphony Orchestra presents “A Broadway Romance� with John

Sept. 30-Oct. 2 – 13th Annual Oregon Coast Jazz Party – three days of live jazz and clinics (times vary). Discounts for locals and OCCA members.

July 8-9, 7:30 p.m. – Judy Collins with the Newport Symphony Orchestra July 22, 7 p.m. – National Theatre Live from London: “Hangmen�

July 28, 2 & 6 p.m. – OCCA

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Oct. 7-8, 14-15, 21-22, 27-29, 7 p.m. & Oct. 9, 16, 23, 30, 2 p.m. – Red Octopus Theatre Company: “One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest�

For more information about all of these events and more, and to

purchase tickets, go to www.coastarts. org or call 541-265-2787.

Summer at the VAC The Newport Visual Arts Center at the Nye Beach Turnaround is a feast for the eyes whether you are taking in an exhibit or looking out the windows at the breathtaking view of the Pacific Ocean. The VAC is home to three galleries: The Runyan on the main floor, the Coastal Oregon Visual Artists Showcase (COVAS) on the second, and the Upstairs Gallery on third.

Exhibits feature local, regional and national artists. Friendly docents will answer your questions, and admission is free.

Monthly Artist Receptions to welcome new exhibits take place on the first Friday of each month from 5 to 7 pm. Classes aimed at adults and children are offered regularly, some of which happily accept walk-in participants. Make sure to check the web site, coastarts.org, for a more complete calendar of events.

The Runyan Gallery is open 11 am - 5 pm Tuesday through Sunday.

The COVAS and Upstairs galleries are open noon - 4 pm, Tuesday through Saturday.

Upcoming events include: April 1- May 27 – “Small Wonders” exhibit in the Coastal Oregon Visual Artist Showcase. Kimberly King of Reedsport, OR, shows her miniature myrtlewood carvings and dolls.

April 1-24 – Newport Paper & Book Arts Festival Instructors Show.

Leading paper and book artists from through the Pacific Northwest come together to show paper mobiles, shadow boxes, journals, pocket books and more.

April 22, 3:45 pm – Art Fridays “Aboriginal Acrylics: Dot Painting” Class (Spring Session). Youth arts workshop geared toward middleschool learners

April 22, 5-7-pm – Newport Paper and Book Arts Festival Instructors Show Reception, Upstairs Gallery.

Join festival instructors and attendees in celebration of paper and book arts.

April 29, 3:45 pm – Art Fridays

known, painter Christos Koutsouras explores Astoria and Fort Stevens through his large-scale works.

May 6, 3:45 pm – Art Fridays “Amazing Tesselations (M.C. Escher)” Class (Spring Session).

Youth arts workshop geared toward middle-school learners May 6, 5-7pm – Oregon Coast Council for the Arts Opening Reception, Runyan Gallery,

“Georgia O’Keefe Watercolor Florals” Class (Spring Session).

Youth arts workshop geared toward middle-school learners

May 13, 3:45 pm – Art Fridays “Doodle Cartoons” Class (Spring Session). Youth arts workshop geared toward middle-school learners

April 22-24 – Newport Paper & Book Arts Festival. 16 workshops, 16 instructors. Join fellow enthusiasts for the West Coast’s largest paper and book arts festival.

May 20, 3:45 pm – Art Fridays “Nye Beach Banners: Public Art 1” Class (Spring Session). Youth arts workshop geared toward middleschool learners

May 6-28 – “Seasonal Responses” Exhibition, Upstairs Gallery. Lincoln City science Nora Sherwood explores how seasonal changes result in major adaptations throughout the natural world.

May 21, 6-9 pm – Writers on the Edge Literary Arts Event

May 6-June 26 – “Accessible to All” exhibition, Runyan Gallery.

Greek-born and internationally

June - August Check on coastarts.org/Visual Arts Center for the latest summer art classes and camps.

June 3-July 2 – “Survey: The Work of Newport High School Students 2015-16” exhibition, Upstairs Gallery.

June 3, 5-7 pm – Oregon Coast Council for the Arts Opening Reception.

June 18, 6-9 pm – Writers on the Edge Literary Arts Event

47

Want an oceanfront place to stay?

You can’t beat the Elizabeth Street Inn

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By Nancy Steinberg You have a huge range of lodging options in Newport, from camp sites to intimate B&Bs to luxury hotel rooms along the ocean. You can consult Trip Advisor or another web site to choose one, or you can listen to the best endorsement of all: When my husband and I, Newport residents, celebrated our wedding anniversary last fall and wanted a quick, local getaway appropriately posh but comfortable as well, there was no question as to where we’d go: the Elizabeth Street Inn. It was a perfect night.

The Elizabeth Street Inn, just a few yards from the thundering surf, provides luxury lodgings with a friendly, cozy feel. “It’s an intimate boutique hotel, where you can feel like you’ve got the place to yourself,” says Jennifer Morkert, the inn’s director of sales. Its 68 rooms all face the ocean, with a panoramic view all the way to the Yaquina Head lighthouse from a private balcony.

“Even your car has an ocean view here,” Morkert jokes, referring to the oceanfront parking garage below the guest rooms.

Every room also features free cozy gas fireplace, which get heavy use in all seasons on the coast. “A lot of our guests crank up the fireplace and open the sliding glass door to the deck in order to have the sound of the ocean in the room,” Morkert says. “If you’re that close to the ocean you really want to hear it.” I confess that that’s exactly what we did on our recent stay.

Guests can choose among a range of room types, including king and double queen options, some with Jacuzzi tubs.

Some rooms can be connected to be made into family-friendly suites; check the hotel’s web site for details and rates.

Guests are treated to a number of special touches at the inn, including an ocean-view fitness center, hot tub, and salt-water pool; complimentary hot breakfast buffet; freshbaked cookies in the evening; free coffee and tea in the lobby all day long; and the hotel’s famous smoked salmon chowder from September to May. Hotel staff will arrange beach bonfires for groups of ten or more, and smaller groups can purchase bonfire kits

at the front desk which include firewood and s’mores ingredients for a DIY beach bonfire evening.

Looking for the perfect spot for a business meeting or conference? The Elizabeth Street Inn can host small to medium business gatherings, reunions, retreats, and other meetings. Ask to see the hotel’s excellent meeting space.

While there is no on-site restaurant/bar at the hotel, the nearby dining options are unlimited, and the staff will be happy to make recommendations. If you’re visiting with a group, why not ask the hotel staff to help you set up a privately catered meal in the function room at the Oregon Coast Aquarium?

The hotel offers a range of specials in partnership with local organizations. During the Newport Symphony Orchestra’s season, September-March, guests can partake of a package that includes free tickets to a Sunday matinee concert. Between now and December 31, 2016 when you bring in a large, brown paper-bag filled with non-

perishable food items to donate to the local food pantry, the hotel will take 15% off your daily rate (1 bag per each day of stay).

The Elizabeth Street Inn is undergoing a top-to-bottom remodel, to be completed in late spring, so the place will be completely spiffed up for the summer season. The guest rooms, lobby, breakfast area, and even the corridors are all getting a complete makeover to add a bit of a modern flair to the décor. “The owners take to heart every comment they receive on the hotel, so those comments played a big role in planning the remodel,” Morkert explains.

Whether it’s your wedding anniversary, a family trip to the coast, or you’re here on business, the Elizabeth Street Inn is the perfect lodging choice. Be sure to visit the hotel’s web site for more information, and reserve today.

When You Go

Elizabeth Street Inn 232 SW Elizabeth St. (541) 265-9400 (877) 265-9400 elizabethstreetinn.com

49

Where to find the best picnic spots in Newport

By Nancy Steinberg Nothing says “summer’s here” like packing up a meal and taking it outdoors to dine. On vacation, picnics have many plussides: no need to wait in line for a table at a restaurant, the dress code is always “come as you are,” it’s easy on the wallet, and you get to experience more of the great outdoors.

But all picnic spots are not created equal. A picnic at the beach can give new meaning to the word sandwich, for example, as the wind frequently picks up just in time for lunch. Here are some spots that are ideal for al fresco dining in Newport, no picnic blanket

50

required.

Ona Beach A unit of Brian Booth State Park, Ona Beach, about 8 miles south of Newport, has a fantastic picnic area along meandering Beaver Creek. Picnic tables dot a large grassy area perfect for Frisbee or tag, and there are a few grills as well. Access is quite easy, and the picnic area can be reserved for large groups. A paved trail leads to the spectacular beach, where Beaver Creek forms a tiny delta on the sand and bald eagles are frequently sighted. For more adventurous picnickers, the Beaver Creek boat launch is just across Hwy 101 from Ona Beach on Beaver Creek Road. You can launch a kayak or canoe here, paddle upstream, and find a wealth of wild, secluded picnic spots along the creek as well.

Yaquina Bay State Park Yaquina Bay State Park is just at the north end of the Yaquina Bay Bridge. Highlights of the park include the historic Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, a fishermen’s memorial shrine, an incredible panoramic view of the bridge, jetty, and entrance to Yaquina Bay, and a gorgeous beach. A small trail system also wends its way through a stand of Sitka spruce and shore pine, and picnic tables are found along the trail, away from the breezy coastline.

Big Creek Park Big Creek Park, a city park, is a bit off the beaten path in Newport (2510 NE Big Creek Rd), and therefore used more by locals than visitors. It’s worth finding, though, for its large, covered picnic area, grills, grassy area for volleyball and other sports, and two sets of playground equipment. A horseshoe pit is available if you have your own horseshoes, and a gorgeous one-mile hiking trail runs between the park and a Newport residential

neighborhood through what’s known as Forest Park. Head east and you come to a gravel road that runs along Newport’s municipal drinking water reservoir stocked with fish to catch for dinner. Across the road is another trail head for the Ocean to Bay Trail which goes through the woods and under Hwy 101 to Agate Beach. Within the park itself there is an Oregon Coast Quest, a clue-based treasure hunt set up by Oregon Sea Grant.

Devil’s Punchbowl State Natural Area Just a few miles north of Newport is the small community of Otter Rock.

At the end of the road (yes, there is basically one road in Otter Rock – follow the signs from Hwy 101) is the Devil’s Punchbowl State Natural Area where the ocean thunders into a natural rock formation, kicking up foam and making for a dramatic backdrop to the nearby picnic area. Grey whales are frequently sighted here, having their own picnic very close to shore, and the sunsets from these picnic tables

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are second to none. If you find yourself wishing you had a great bottle of pinot noir to accompany your picnic, you’re in luck – abutting the parking area is the Flying Dutchman Winery, which makes award-winning wines just steps from a cliff overlooking the ocean.

Be sure to taste their wares – you will certainly want to buy a bottle or two.

If you find yourself at the picnic area but don’t have an actual picnic meal with you, you can eat at the tiny Mo’s West, an outpost of Newport’s famous Mo’s only open in the summer months.

Chowder, sunset, whales, and crashing surf – it doesn’t get much better than that!

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51

Buying fish straight from the fishing boats in Newport

By Nancy Steinberg

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One of the major perks of living at or visiting the coast is the easy access to the best seafood in the world. Unless you go out and catch the fish yourself, you can’t get much fresher than buying the fish right from the fishermen that caught it off of their boats tied up at the dock. They hook ‘em, and you cook ‘em, it’s as simple as that. Here’s the what, when, and how of buying fish off the docks in Newport.

Salmon, halibut, Dungeness crab, and albacore tuna are the most common types of seafood to be found for sale on the docks, with the occasional lingcod here and there.

All of these fish are found seasonally, but

you can almost always find something fresh to cook up for dinner. Most sales take place from boats that tie up at Port Docks 5 or 7 on the Bayfront, and some from Port Dock 3 and boats in the South Beach Marina. Look for signs, often hand-lettered, indicating that fish is for sale. For albacore tuna, check the Oregon Albacore Commission’s web site at oregonalbacore.org/the-fleet-is-in/ for a current list of boats with albacore for sale during albacore season (see sidebar).

Kaety Jacobson, Marine Extension Agent with Oregon Sea Grant, understands that sometimes people are intimidated by the prospect of wandering the docks to buy seafood. “People don’t know if they’re allowed to go onto the docks, and aren’t sure how to proceed once they’re there.

They don’t want to look dumb or get a bad

deal,” she said.

Take heart. Yes, you absolutely can go down onto the docks where the fishing boats tie up. It’s quite easy to buy fish off the boats, and it’s the best deal around. First, bring two critical things with you: a cooler filled with ice, and cash. Some fishermen will take a local check, but many boats deal with cash transactions only. The cooler, obviously, is to keep your fish cold while in transport – some boats will provide ice and some won’t.

By law, the minimum unit that can be sold at the docks is a whole fish. If you only want one tuna loin (a quarter of a fish) or a single salmon fillet, buddy up with someone or be prepared to freeze or otherwise preserve the extra. Most vendors will clean your fish for you for a small fee; Jacobson strongly recommends that consumers take advantage of this service. “Unless you’re really used to filleting your own fish, the extra cost is well worth it,” she says. “Studies have shown that most consumers will have lost more in meat than they’d pay to the filleter at the dock if they fillet at home.”

The quality of the fish is certain to be absolutely top-notch – customer satisfaction is of prime importance to the fishermen to guarantee repeat local business – but here are some tips to ensure that you’re getting a great product.

Finfish should have clear

eyes, and the fish shouldn’t be banged up with gouges or dents. If the fish was frozen at sea, it should have been frozen straight and flat, not bent, as the meat at the “corner” will be bruised. For albacore tuna, look for pink (not brown) gills. Salmon should still be shiny, with no major loss of patches of scales.

Tuna will usually be kept in the boat’s fish hold whole, while salmon are often gutted prior to sale. Look for a nice bright pink color to the salmon’s inside pocket (where the guts used to be).

To determine the maximum amount of time since your fish was caught, ask the fisherman when the fishing trip started (rather than when the fish was caught, as they often won’t know for sure), and calculate from there. And don’t be afraid to reject a fish in favor of another one of a different size. In fact, since fish is sold by the pound (and by law the price per pound must be posted), it might be easier to decide how much you’d like to spend and have the vendor help pick out a fish to match your budget.

Crabs should definitely be alive when they’re purchased and cooked, but vendors sometimes keep the water temperatures in the tanks low to keep the crustaceans sedate, so they won’t necessarily be scampering about when you look into the holding tanks at the docks. They should be moving, however. Crabs with excessive algal growth on their shells should be avoided.

Buying fish off the docks constitutes a winwin for the fisherman and consumer. “The

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fishermen get a higher price from the consumer than they can from a processor, and the consumer gets a lower price than at the grocery store,” Jacobson says.

Enjoy your catch of the day! After dinner, if you’d like more information about Newport’s fishing industry and sustainable seafood, check out the fisheries information on Oregon Sea Grant’s web site at seagrant. oregonstate.edu/fisheries-and-seafood.

While enjoying the relaxing sounds and sensations of the Oregon coast, take time to stop by our gift shop at Sapphire Center. We offer: Local Artwork • Jewelry • Crystals • Collectibles Candles • Incense • Books • Greeting Cards Children’s Section • Dance Fitness-Zumba Class Reiki Healing • Readings

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To everything there is a season… …especially wild seafood. While the 2015 seasons for all species have not yet been pinned down by fisheries managers, here is a rough guide to what you can find for sale on the docks of Newport and when. For more detail, check Oregon Sea Grant’s web site for their annual “What’s Fresh” guide for consumers, published in the spring when seasons are known.

Salmon: Pockets of availability in late spring through fall, depending on species and regulations.

Halibut: Halibut are harvested during “openers,” brief windows during which harvest is allowed in early through late summer. In addition, an annual quota is imposed on the fishery, and if that cap is reached in an earlier opener, the later ones will be cancelled, so buy your halibut as early as possible.

Albacore tuna: Summer through fall, depending on when the fish approach close enough to shore to harvest.

Dungeness crab: Crab season is officially Dec. 1 to Aug. 15, but crabs can be kept alive and healthy in tanks long after the season is over so you’re likely to be able to get crab throughout much of the year.

Learn to Shop at the Dock!

If you’d like some more guidance and insight into how to buy fish off the docks, Oregon Sea Grant fisheries extension agents want to help. They’ll be offering a series of free tours, called Shop at the Dock, which will show participants how and where to buy fish off the docks, provide an overview of the local fishing industry, and introduce some of the fishermen who land their catch in Newport (and other Oregon ports). Fisheries extension agent Ruby Moon explains, “This is an opportunity for the public to have a guided tour of the dock infrastructure, learn about what seafood products are available, and get tips for buying the freshest, highest quality products around at the best price available. But this is more than just picking your fish; it’s about the experience of meeting the fisherman responsible for bringing you that super-fresh product and hearing his stories about working on the sea. It’s about truly being connected to the food we consume.” Shop at the Dock tours will be given in Newport on a range of July dates – check the Sea Grant Extension web site (seagrant.oregonstate.edu/ outreach-engagement/sea-grant-extension) for details or contact Ruby Moon at ruby.moon@ oregonstate.edu.

55

Catch a wave at any time of year in Newport

By Rick Beasley

56

Oregon’s spectacular and beautiful surf is a magnet for camera buffs, artists, and soulsearchers. For a growing number of people, however, the powerful elegance of an ocean wave is more than an art form that touches the psyche.

It’s a tube-monster, man, a surging mountain of fun that demands to be ridden in all its chilly bluster!

Some of the Pacific’s finest waves dissolve on the sandy, uncrowded beaches of Oregon, but it’s only been in the last 15 years that surfing has gained momentum as a year ‘round sport here.

Today, a 35-mile stretch of surf between Newport and Lincoln City is a relative hotbed of surfing action – relative, compared to Santa Cruz or Waimea Bay, where surfers bob elbow-to-elbow and fight each other to ride the waves.

Damon Fry moved to Oregon to take advantage of the excellent local surfing waters.

“I came here from California and the Oregon surf hasn’t let me down,” he said.

“The people are friendly and the water’s not polluted. There are three epic seasons here, but you have to want to surf bad. Sometimes, you have to hike through the brush to get to the surf, and you wear thick wet suits to deal with the cold water. But the surfing is so great you almost want to be quiet about it.”

To many, Oregon’s nippy surf has always loomed like a jewel behind glass – close, powerful and beckoning, but impossible to touch for all but the hardiest who could endure its cold edge. Long a bastion of hard-core surfers who braved its Endless Winter waters, surfing was considered more spectator sport than participant activity.

But that’s all changed, according to Mike Olsen, one of the local old-school surfers who knows all the breaks from South Beach to Roads End. The advent of new wet suit technology has opened the door to surfing waters that are reliably cold 12 months a year, he observed.

“In the early 80s it was rare to see a car with a board on top cruising down Hwy. 101,” Olsen said. “Today, you may see a

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dozen cars jammed along a turnout, with surfers bobbing in the water and riding the waves. The reason for the growth is the development of really good-quality wet suits, and of course the rise in popularity overall of surfing.”

The release of movies such as “Blue Crush,” “Point Break,” and “Endless Summer II” create novel twists to the sport, as well.

58

“A lot of California surfers settled in Portland to follow their careers,” Olsen said.

“Their kids – who had grown up on Dad’s surfing tales of the 60s and 70s – saw those movies and told Pop to teach them the sport.

Now, we’ve got whole families driving over for a weekend of surfing. It’s really become a family sport in the last couple of years.”

Surfing in Oregon started in the 50s and saw the formation of surf clubs in the 60s, but it wasn’t until the 80s when things really started to grow. Now it’s a family event, with the parents and the kids discovering a sport they can all participate in and have fun.

The sport offers great exercise – like swimming, it uses most of the body’s muscles – and surfers agree it’s a major stress-reducer.

The smooth moves of experienced surfers make the sport look easy, but even the best longboarders admit they never stop learning.

Surfing, like any sport, takes practice and

commitment to master.

“Actually, surfing is real easy once you get to know it, and get past the part where you’re just getting bashed around,” said Albany surfer Ronnie Walls.

Surfing lessons available from the local Newport shops are inexpensive and fun and are crucial in teaching novice surfers how to deal with hazardous surfing conditions like rip tides. You can always go out and learn with someone who knows what they’re doing, but a two-hour lesson is the best way.

Otherwise, you might just end up struggling.

Ossie’s in Newport also offers summer “surf camps” which aim to get kids started (and hooked!) young.

Beginners usually start out with a ninefoot rental board. Many first-time surfers “Jones out” on the sport and return to buy brand new boards the same afternoon.

Even more critical than the board is the wet suit – look for one that’s at least 5 ml thick, and is full-bodied with a hood and booties.

Good surfing can be found almost anywhere along dozens of beaches around Newport. Favorites include South Beach, Agate Beach, Otter Rock, and Beverly/ Moolack Beach. Shifting sands that play havoc with “the break” and seasonal changes in the currents make a call to a favorite surf shop a mandatory routine. You can waste a gallon or two of gas just looking for waves, so give the local surf shops a call or check local surf cams (www.ossiessurfshop.com/ About_Ossies/Surf_Forecasts) first.

Have a gnarly time!

Surf Shops

For more information on lessons and equipment sales and rentals, contact experts at Newport’s two excellent surf shops:

Ocean Pulse

Ossie’s

Lessons, rentals, sales, custom boards, skateboarding too! www.oceanpulsesurf.com (541) 265-7745 428 SW Coast Hwy (Hwy. 101)

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Mike Miller Park in South Beach is the perfect family-friendly hike

By Nancy Steinberg

Just a bit south of the Yaquina Bay Bridge is a little county park that contains an astounding cross-section of ecosystems within its 40-acre footprint. Hikers can explore the park via a fairly easy, familyfriendly 1.2-mile loop trail that traverses oldgrowth coastal forest, wetlands, and ponds.

I started hiking Mike Miller fifteen years ago by myself or with my husband and dog when we were looking for a short and beautiful walk. When my son was an infant I hiked there with him in a backpack, just the right distance for carrying him. When he learned to walk we’d wander the loop slowly together, at toddler pace. Now I use the loop trail for trail running, and when my son comes along he races ahead, faster than I ever have been.

The pace at which we hike the loop trail may have changed, but the array of habitats and the beauty of the park have not. I took a refresher hike there recently, and memories of many afternoons at Mike Miller came flooding back to me. In recent years the acreage of the park has been increased and two new trails have been added, so even if you’ve been to Mike Miller before, it’s a good time to go back.

Hikers can park at the trailhead on SE 50th St. in South Beach marked by a sign; there is no fee for use of the park. There are sometimes (but not always) trail guides available here with explanations of the numbered stops along the loop trail. The were no trail guides the day I hiked recently, but it didn’t matter: I remembered with a smile that my son and I used to make a

game of simply finding the numbers, and would invent descriptions to accompany the markers. “Number two: At this spot you will see an enormous bear. If there is no bear by the number two sign, be sure to be on the lookout throughout the rest of your hike, and please call us if you find our bear.”

In reality the trail guide points out native plants and other natural features of the park, and is worth perusing; you can always find it online at the county park department’s web site (www.co.lincoln. or.us/parks/page/mike-miller-park).

As you enter the trail system behind the trailhead sign, you will see a sign indicating that Mike Miller Trail goes to the left and the Emery Trail heads off to the right. I find it best to start on the Mike Miller Trail and take its left fork to walk the loop clockwise, following the order of the numbered markers. The trail starts as a flat stretch of footpath that is actually an abandoned railroad bed. Depending on the season, you are likely to see blooming wild rhododendrons, mushrooms in every hue, and a vast array of native plants here.

Rough-skinned newts with bright orange bellies are frequently found here and throughout 60

the park, so be careful where you tread.

The trail then heads off into the Sitka spruce forest, draped in every shade of green imaginable (it was fitting that my last hike there was on St. Patrick’s Day). The trail gets slightly hilly in spots, but never very strenuous. Tree roots often make natural staircases, and actual staircases are built into some particularly steep stretches of trail. If you or your hiking companions need a rest, a number of benches are scattered along the trail at strategically beautiful spots.

Trail marker no. 7 stands sentry by the root ball of a massive fallen tree; it is fascinating to see this giant’s roots up close.

Elsewhere in the park look for “nurse logs,” decaying stumps or fallen trees that are such rich sources of nutrients that seedlings start to grow right on top of the dead tree or stump.

At trail marker no. 9, you’ll see a sign that indicates that the Mike Miller loop continues to the right, and the Wilder Trail heads to the left. The Wilder Trail is a quarter-mile spur that goes to the Wilder housing development, emerging at a small playground. Visitors can also park here, near the playground, to access the trail system.

As I hiked, I was buzzed by obnoxious but adorable hummingbirds, and saw many other bird species along the way.

Common sightings here

include woodpeckers (look for dead trees along the trail that look like Swiss cheese – that’s where woodpeckers have been hammering away, looking for lunch), ospreys, eagles, and more.

At trail marker no. 12 you will need to make a choice: stay on the Mike Miller loop or take the Emery Trail, a recent addition to the trail system, either of which will ultimately take you back to the trailhead where you parked. The Emery Trail can be muddy and slick, and even flooded if it’s been really wet. You’ll pass a pond, with a bench for contemplation and rest, and soon thereafter the trail comes out to the paved road. Walk along the road to the right, and the trail continues into the woods again and eventually comes out to where you started.

If you continue on the Mike Miller trail from the no. 12 sign, you’ll enter my favorite part of the trail. It is here that I can truly envision the forest primeval, before human intervention.

Old growth trees abound, and even on the sunniest days it is dark in this part of the park. Between trail marker no.

14 and no.

15 a relatively new treefall crosses the trail. Most adults will have to duck to get under the behemoth that forms a bridge over the trail here. No. 15 is the last trail number; here is another access point to the pond, with a viewing platform for up-close investigation. Look for newts, turtles, frogs, and all manner of birds here.

Shortly after the pond, you’ll come to the trailhead again. Want to loop it again? That’s always my first thought when I finish.

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When you go:

Mike Miller Trail Access the trail either at the SE 50th St. trailhead or at the Wilder housing development at SE 43rd St., both of which are in South Beach.

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Awesome food is on the menu at these scrumptious Newport restaurants

By Nancy Steinberg

is quite different: family-friendly, with a menu of reasonably priced, hearty Italian fare, including pizzas, pastas, and a few delectably-prepared main dishes. Everything is prepared fresh and by hand, and the menu rotates frequently. Favorites I’ve sampled include the taglitatelle with clam sauce, the perfectly cooked calamari appetizer, and the margharita pizza with house-made mozzarella. Dinner is complemented by an excellent wine list, creative cocktails, and house-made desserts. Sorella is open seven days a week.

526 NW Coast St. in Nye Beach (541) 265-4055 www.sorellanyebeach.com

Asiatico

There is no shortage of great food in Newport, whether you want a quick bite or you’d rather linger over a multi-course gourmet feast. Here is a sampling of the best-of-the-best, which is purely subjective, of course. You’ll have to try others to see if you have additional favorites in town. It’s a good thing you need three meals a day.

Sorella

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The newest addition to Newport’s restaurant scene is Sorella, the latest brainstorm of chef Justin Wills. The muchlauded Wills (twice a semi-finalist for the James Beard Best Chef in the NW award, for example) also heads up Restaurant Beck at the Whale Cove Inn south of Depoe Bay, a true gastronomic adventure. Sorella

It’s a little confusing figuring out how to enter Asiatico, the Asian-fusion restaurant on the Bayfront, but follow the signs and stick with it – it’s worth it. If the weather cooperates you can eat out on their waterfront deck.

The main event at Asiatico, at least for me, is sushi. The sushi chefs here prepare artistic rolls with creative combos of ingredients. Try the Asiatico Roll (eel, avocado, cucumber, masago, spicy sauce, topped with smoked salmon, black caviar and Japanese mayo) or the Fire Dragon Roll, a classic combination of spicy salmon inside topped with fresh slices of salmon and avocado. The menu includes non-sushi main dishes as well, and you’ll often find fleeting specials using fresh, local fish. Make sure to compliment your dinner with one of their many sake choices. Asiatico is open seven days a week and you can eat in or take out.

875 SW Bay Blvd on the Bayfront (541) 265-8387 www.asiaticofusion.com

Local Ocean

No Newport dining list is complete without Local Ocean, the hopping spot on the Bayfront that focuses on fresh, locallycaught seafood. Where do I start with Local Ocean recommendations? The addictive fish tacos? The unbelievable tuna poke with mandarin oranges that I have tried, and failed, to replicate at home? The Dungeness crab po’ boy accompanied by perhaps the

best French fries in Newport? Or maybe the warm, hearty Brazilian seafood stew. You have to taste it to believe it but it’s all good at Local Ocean. Even something as simple as fish and chips is transformed into an event.

With the opening of an upstairs dining room (my favorite spot and worth the wait for a table), they’ve increased their capacity, but if you have to wait for a table, the good news is that a walk along the Bayfront is a lovely overture to dinner. If you plan on cooking while in Newport, Local Ocean also has a seafood market. Local Ocean is open daily for lunch and dinner.

213 SE Bay Blvd on the Bayfront (541) 574-7959 www.localocean.net

Nana’s Irish Pub

Want to know where the locals eat, a lot?

Nana’s Irish Pub in the heart of Nye Beach.

The hearty home-cooked comfort food of Nana’s is what we crave in the winter, but also in the summer and the spring … you get the picture. Pub food is an art form at Nana’s, with particular specialties being their Bunratty Reuben sandwich piled with housemade corned beef, steamy chicken pot pie, and perfect fish and chips. And where else on the central coast can you get Irish specialties like bangers and mash or an Irish breakfast (check out their menu online to see what this amazingness entails. Hint: it entails everything.). The full bar serves everything from Guinness on tap (of course) to rotating mixed drink specials. Ever had chocolate brandy bread pudding? You have to at Nana’s. Save room. Nana’s is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner.

613 NW 3rd St in Nye Beach (541) 574-8787 www.nanasirishpub.com

April’s of Nye Beach

April’s is a true treasure of Newport, hidden away from the main drag but well-known to many. If it’s not well-known to you, you need to remedy that. While the food is upscale and the dining room is lovely and quiet, the vibe at April’s is casual and comfortable.

Chef April Wolcott focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared with a Northwest flair,

and the menu rotates accordingly. Produce and herbs come from the owners’ five-acre farm nearby, while meat and seafood are procured from many local vendors. Some personal favorites from the menu include an appetizer of Idaho smoked trout and the Lasagne alla Casa with hot Italian sausage (house-made), ricotta (also house-made), provolone and parmesan cheeses, spicy tomato sauce and spinach. The menu also generally features seafood, steak, and duck dishes, an incredible wine list, and mouthwatering house-made desserts. April’s is open for dinner only, Wednesday-Sunday, and reservations are recommended. You’ll want to linger here over dinner.

749 NW 3rd St in Nye Beach (across the street from the Sylvia Beach Hotel) (541) 265-6855 www.aprilsatnyebeach.com

Saffron Salmon

Perched on the end of a pier on the Bayfront is a Newport culinary delight: Saffron Salmon, home to Northwest cuisine and wines, served with one of the best views around. Salmon (mostly local, all sustainably caught) is served here in a pan-roasted preparation as well as grilled on sandwiches and salads, but salmon is only the beginning.

I love the small plate of flash-fried Brussels sprouts, the Caesar salad, the calamari, and especially, the crab and shrimp cakes, which are made with almost no filler but somehow manage to hold together beautifully. Other great choices from their menu include the grilled lamb burger (with meat from nearby Walker Farms), the crab BLT, and the hearts of palm risotto to which salmon, pink shrimp, grilled prawns, or grilled Portobello mushrooms can be added. They have a great wine list as well, and who can resist warm bread pudding with white chocolate and dried cherries, served with a spiced amaretto sauce and whipped cream? Saffron Salmon is open for lunch and dinner Thursday through Tuesday.

859 SW Bay Blvd on the Bayfront (541) 265-8921 www.saffronsalmon.com

65

By Nancy Steinberg Ever watch an octopus devour a live crab? Want to try your hand at generating electricity with a wave?

Have questions about invasive species, underwater earthquakes, deep-sea hydrothermal vents, or local fish species? You can do all this and more at the Visitor Center of the Mark O. Hatfield Marine Science Center in South Beach.

HMSC is a facility of Oregon State University, but its campus is home to scientists from a wide variety of institutions, including OSU, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the Oregon Department of Fish & Wildlife, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, and

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others. All told, approximately 300 scientists, educators, and support staff work at the center, conducting research, outreach, and education programs focused on our watery world.

The topics studied there are as diverse as the inhabitants of the sea themselves: salmon genetics, the environmental impacts of wave energy, whale migration patterns, eruptions at undersea volcanoes, effects of ocean acidification on fish, and much more.

“Our greatest strength is our focus on collaborative research,” explained HMSC Program Manager Maryann Bozza. “Because scientists from many different organizations are co-located here, there is a lot of interaction that might not happen if they were working at separate facilities.” For example, OSU Assistant Professor Jessica Miller and NOAA Fisheries Scientist Tom Hurst have collaborated on a string of projects focused on the effects of ocean acidification on young fishes. In another building, scientists analyze genetic samples taken from salmon caught by fishermen as part of ProjectCROOS (Collaborative Research on Oregon Ocean Salmon).

“It’s inspiring to see ideas, data and equipment shared across disciplines and between agency and university programs.

Through professional activities such as weekly seminars and even lunchtime soccer or dogwalking, scientists here keep the lines of communication wide open,” Bozza said.

Some of the most high-profile, cutting edge marine science in the world is carried out at Hatfield and by Hatfield-associated researchers. When an enormous dock ripped from its moorings by the March 2011 Japanese tsunami landed on a Newport beach in June 2012, Hatfield scientists Jessica Miller and John Chapman were the

ones who took the lead on examining the potentially invasive species on the dock. A piece of that dock now stands as a sentinel and reminder outside the front door of the Visitor Center. Marine Mammal Institute Associate Director Scott Baker has made headlines with his genetics work demonstrating that endangered whale meat was being served in sushi restaurants in Seoul and Los Angeles. His pioneering work was featured in the eco-thriller/ documentary “The Cove,” released to great acclaim in 2009.

Some of the center’s research is carried out on its two research vessels, which can occasionally be seen at the OSU Ship Operations dock nearby: the 54-foot Elakha (“Sea Otter” in the Chinook language), which stays relatively close to shore, and the oceangoing, 177-foot R/V Oceanus.

The Oceanus is getting long in the tooth, for a research vessel, and is slated to be replaced within the next ten years. Hatfield scientists don’t just ship out from Newport – they work all over the world, embarking from ports in the Gulf of Mexico, Antarctica, the South Pacific, the Bering Sea, and beyond.

The best way to learn about what goes on at HMSC is by checking out the Visitor Center, where most of the exhibits are related to HMSC faculty research. One particularly hot topic is wave energy – how to extract it and what the environmental impacts of wave energy devices in the ocean might be. The wave energy exhibit at

the Visitor Center covers these topics with hands-on activities. Another exhibit covers the threat of invasive species, a very real problem for the local coastal ecosystems. The VC also features touch tanks where visitors can be embraced by a sea anemone or stroke a tide pool fish. And of course, there’s the octopus, the mascot of the center that greets visitors as they enter.

Check the schedule for her feeding times – it’s quite a show.

HMSC doesn’t like to let any data escape, and so even the Visitor Center is a laboratory. Here a team of researchers focused on “free-choice learning,” education that takes place outside of a formal classroom setting and under the student’s own initiative, studies the behaviors and interactions of visitors with the exhibits and with each other. Cameras and other hightech equipment installed throughout the center aid in those studies, and a cadre of researchers works behind the scenes to learn how we learn.

The Visitor Center (2030 SE Marine Science Drive) is open 10 am to 4 pm Thursdays through Mondays from Labor Day until Memorial Day weekend. The center is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day. Admission is by donation ($5 per person/$20 per family is suggested).

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The hole story of Newport’s Agate Beach Golf Course

By Nancy Steinberg

Golfers: there’s no need to skip tee time while you’re visiting Newport. Bring those clubs along and play at the lovely, rolling Agate Beach Golf Course, just across the street from the Pacific Ocean. This regulation nine-hole course is the perfect place to practice putting, take a lesson, or play a game.

The course has been part of the Newport landscape since 1931, when it opened as the Agate Beach Golf Links. Bill and Ramona Martin bought the course in 1960, and the family has owned and operated it ever since. The Martin family has golf in their blood – it has been their business as well as their pleasure for generations – and their combined expertise in the game itself as well as in course design, maintenance, and management results in a superb golf experience for visitors and locals alike.

The Martins have made a range of improvements and changes over the decades, including building the clubhouse and adding automated irrigation and the driving range. Terry Martin, Bill’s son, now runs the course with his mom, and serves as the head golf pro. He describes the course as “Easy to walk, and well-manicured. Players don’t usually need a cart here.” The easy feel of the place mirrors the rolling course.

“We pride ourselves on a friendly, fun atmosphere. It’s a casual course, and we like 68 to make people feel at home,” Terry says.

The mild winters on the central coast mean that golf can essentially be played year-round. Coastal wind can be a factor at the course, but it is also protected by many trees. The slope is 107 with a rating of 66.0 for men, while for women the course’s slope is 109 with a rating of 69.4. The total distance from the ladies tee is 2,894 yards for a par of 38. The total distance from the men's tee is 3,002 yards for a par of 36.

The course’s signature hole, built by Bill Martin shortly after purchasing the property, is the eighth. A par 3, the 115-yard hole is surrounded by towering fir and hemlock trees, and now serves as a memorial to Bill, who passed away in 1995.

Tee times can be reserved, but a reservation is not usually needed, making Agate Beach the perfect course for visitors, Terry says.

Lessons can be arranged for individuals and groups with one of the course’s four golf instructors, all PGA-certified. The staff is particularly dedicated to encouraging a love of golf in the next generation: Agate Beach offers a week-long golf “camp” for little putters, ages 5-16, in the early summer, open to all, and the Newport High School boys and girls golf teams practice for free at the course.

The course hosts both a men’s and ladies’ golf association, which sponsor tournaments and meet for regular tee times during the week. They welcome visitors; call

When You Go

Agate Beach Golf Course 4100 Oregon Coast Highway (541) 265-7331 www.agatebeachgolf.net

No clubs? the clubhouse for more information. Punch cards are also available for eight months of the year, and a membership program is also offered.

The course has a well-appointed pro shop, offering a great selection of gear and apparel, including souvenir items embossed with the course’s logo. Post-game, (or pregame?), make sure to grab a bite to eat at the excellent coffee shop on site for breakfast or lunch. Non-golfers are always welcome as well. The coffee shop offers home-cooked food, including soups and sandwiches, at very reasonable prices. Depending on how your game has gone, you can order the Sandbagger (one egg, two slices of bacon, toast, and potatoes), the Hacker (two eggs any style, potatoes and toast), the Par Burger (1/3-lb burger, served with chips, fries, or cole slaw), or add cheese and make it a Bogey Burger. The service is excellent, and the food is fresh and hearty.

“Golf is a game you can play your whole lifetime, whether you’re five or 86,” Terry Martin says, gesturing to his mom, Ramona, the matriarch of the course. Agate Beach Golf Course is the perfect place for everyone to hone their game, and the Martins have a tee time just for you.

Try disc golf instead!

Can’t abide the idea of that tiny white ball and vanishingly small hole? Why not try a totally different kind of golf, gaining popularity around the country: disc golf!

This sport is played with Frisbee-like discs and basket targets placed around a course much like traditional golf. There are two courses in Newport: one at the Wilder housing development (18 holes) and one at South Beach State Park (9 holes). The course at South Beach is easier, really aimed at families, while the Wilder course is more difficult, requiring a fair bit of hiking in ravines and over and under brushy areas to get from hole to hole. Use of both courses is free.

Wilder Disc Golf Course: SE 40th Street, South Beach Turn east on SE 40th St. off of Hwy 101 at the signs for Wilder/Oregon Coast Community College. Course is in the woods to the left of the road at the top of the hill. Park near the dog park but not in the bike lanes.

South Beach State Park Disc Golf Course: Turn into South Beach State Park entrance 3 miles south of Yaquina Bay Bridge. Turn towards the campground and park on the wood-chipped pull off.

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From whales to plankton, Marine Discovery Tours offers close encounters with sea life

By Fran Mathews, Marine Discovery Tours One of the greatest adventures visitors can have in Newport is a trip aboard the 65-foot Discovery, the tour boat operated by Marine Discovery Tours. This award-winning familyowned business was started in 1992 by a West Coast fisherman, captain Don Mathews, and his wife, Fran, a marine journalist. The Mathewses and their fun team of naturalists love sharing their “back yard” – Yaquina Bay and River and the nearshore Pacific – and its abundant resident sea life. Their team’s mission statement says it all: “Deliver great activities and information that lead to connections with the aquatic world. Have fun.

Repeat the process!” Every year they welcome aboard 7,000 students on field trips, motor coach groups from across North America, and families from local to international.

Berthed conveniently on the Bayfront, the Discovery is the largest passenger vessel on the coast. It is loaded with comfortable seating for all in a heated cabin, the latest in safety equipment, computer monitors to watch the radar and GPS, and always, great coffee, Rogue Ales, and Oregon wines. The cruise route is determined daily by the captain – if the ocean is calm and safe, the Discovery heads out to sea. If the conditions are rough, the captain will take you only to the edge of the jetties at the mouth of the bay, then calmly cruise through 4,000 acres of salt water bay and freshwater river systems where there are plenty of 70

sights to see, from sea lions to oyster farms.

Expeditions often find gray whales, seals, sea lions, porpoises, and sea birds while enjoying the beauty of the rugged Oregon coastline. From time to time more exotic animals are spotted, including orcas and sharks. Guests are always entertained with stories about the historic coastal community from the early lighthouse keepers to modern day fishermen with satellitedriven navigation systems. Endorsed by the Oregon Coast Aquarium as a “Floating Adventure,” hands-on activities onboard include pulling up authentic West Coast crab pots

from sparkling Bay waters filled with Dungeness crab – Oregon’s official State Crustacean. Passengers help tow plankton nets to see the microscopic critters at the base of all ocean food chains. Yep – your favorite seafood is courtesy of these mighty microscopic wonders. Need some new shots for your Facebook page? Navigation lessons are a favorite feature with the captain – picture your kids driving the boat … really!

Special event cruises are available for brunches, dinner parties, family reunions, weddings, and the scattering of ashes at sea. Make reservations for a unique must-do Newport experience that’s available from March through October.

For more information about Marine Discovery Tours, go to www. marinediscovery.com.

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