Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review October 2021

Page 14

PERSONAL CARE

Healthy protection against oxidation The increased demand for natural cosmetics has resulted in more and more oils and fats being used as a base for formulations. These key ingredients are highly prone to oxidation due to their fatty acid composition. BTSA has developed a full range of antioxidants based on tocopherols which protect fats and oils by blocking free radicals, ultimately delaying the onset of the oxidative process.

T

he skin, in addition to being the largest organ of the human body, acts as a protective shield against external aggressions from the environment such as UV rays, atmospheric pollution or the cold. Therefore, it is of great importance to protect it daily to promote its regeneration and to ensure the skin fulfils its function. The base of many natural cosmetic formulations and key ingredients are oils and fats. The fatty acid composition of oils and fats makes them highly prone to oxidation and, consequently, to the loss of their benefits. As a solution and to keep the nutrients of oils and fats intact so that they can exert their correct function on the skin, the cosmetics industry adds a series of antioxidants to formulations, which in some cases are of synthetic origin. But today’s consumers are looking for cosmetic products which provide the same benefits without the use of synthetic ingredients or additives, especially those with a questionable impact on human health. In this sense, manufacturers of personal care products must seek new antioxidant solutions which are of natural origin and which have the same or even better antioxidant effectiveness as their synthetic counterparts. BTSA, represented locally by CJP Chemicals, offers customised natural solutions that meet the needs of each manufacturer, developing tailored products and providing technical advice.

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OCTOBER 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Test results show both antioxidants offered great results in terms of an increase in the oxidative stability of shea butter and avocado, almond, coconut and macadamia oils:

In shea butter: • Tocobiol C 250% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 350% improvement

In macadamia oil: • Tocobiol C 67% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 140% improvement

In almond oil: • Tocobiol C 55% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 70% improvement

In coconut oil: • Tocobiol C 612% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 730% improvement

OXIDATIVE STABILITY IMPROVEMENT Degradation and consequent rancidity of fats and oils is detectable from the beginning. Exposing fats and oils to high temperatures accelerates the oxidation of their compounds, estimating their behaviour in the long term through different tests such as the Rancimat.

In avocado oil: • Tocobiol C 77% improvement • Tocobiol XT C 98% improvement

"Manufacturers of personal care products must seek new antioxidant solutions which are of natural origin" BTSA carried out a study at its R&D centre in order to determine the performance of its antioxidants Tocobiol C and Tocobiol XT C when added to some of the most commonly used cosmetic ingredients. Equal doses of Tocobiol C and Tocobiol XT C (1 000ppm) were added to shea butter, avocado oil, almond oil, coconut oil and macadamia oil as part of the study.


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