INGREDIENTS While new ingredients continue to entice
vPvB substance. These ingredients will no
Dedraflow products are based on
formulators, many suppliers are investing
longer be permitted in wash-off products
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene or mixtures
in R&D to improve the compatibility
in a concentration equal to or greater than
of Hydrogenated Polyisobutene. These
and efficacy of existing market leading
0.1 percent after January 2020.
ultra soft emollients are compatible with
ingredients like Retinol. Late last year, Infinitec developed a new carrier of a lipid nature for the Retinol market, called VitAlease. O’Brien-de Villiers says the carrier is set to minimise the challenges associated with Retinol-based products such as stability, bioavailability and high irritation potential. VitAlease consists of seven percent Retinol encapsulated in natural, carnauba wax.
most cosmetics ingredients and offer the
Each grade of Dedraflow is uniquely matched to common silicone profiles
Silicone alternatives In January, Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
same volatility and texture as silicones with added photostability and increased safety and ease of use. They also prevent the formation of UV-light induced free radicals in a formulation. Each grade of Dedraflow is uniquely matched to the common silicone profiles of D4, D5 and Dimethicone, offering a luxurious skin feel. Dedraflow 5 and 5.1 are ideal for use in foundations and skin and hair care products. Dedraflow 5.2, 5.3 and
Progressive formulators looking to
5 HR are the most volatile grades, which
(D4) and Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
improve their products from a compliance,
are required for non-transfer applications
(D5) were added to the restricted
environmental and consumer desirable
such as eyeliners and mascaras. •
substances list of the European Chemicals
perspective should consider The
Agency (ECHA), documented in Annex XVII
Innovation Company’s Dedraflow series of
of the REACH Restricted Substance List 2018.
silicone alternatives. These ingredients are
According to The Innovation Company,
available in South Africa from Fourchem,
this means D4 and D5 have been identified
which recently expanded its national
as persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic
footprint with the launch of an office in
substances. As a very persistent and very
KwaZulu-Natal. This branch in Glen Anil,
bio-accumulative (vPvB) substance, D5
Durban complements Fourchem’s existing
also fulfils the criteria to be identified as a
business in Cape Town and Johannesburg.
Fourchem – www.fourchem.co.za Infinitec – www.infinitec.es Intiki – www.intiki.co.za Materia Medica – www.materiamedica.co.za Phenbiox – www.phenbiox.it The Innovation Company – www.theinnovationcompany.fr
P C Review | JUNE 2018 |
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