Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review 2024

HOME CARE Ingredients to deliver sustainable innovation

+ Effective styling solutions for every curl Advanced instruments to empower R&D Trusted preservatives for the home

The team

EDITORIAL

Ingredients for a happy, healthy home

The April edition of Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review explores several captivating themes, ranging from sustainable solutions for home care to ground-breaking advancements in pharmaceutical manufacturing.

Home care has become more than just a routine; it has transformed into a meticulous ritual of creating a safe and hygienic environment for our families and pets. This month, we look at the sustainable future of fabric care, trusted preservatives for the home, and a revolutionary polymer that simplifies cleaning processes when integrated into surface cleaners. Learn more on page 12

The influence of AI is evident in various industries, and beauty packaging is no exception. In our rigid packaging feature, we share findings from Mintel on the profound impact of AI on beauty packaging worldwide.

Read this article on page 18

Precision and innovation reign supreme in pharmaceutical manufacturing. In this month’s pharma focus, we shed light on advanced instruments that empower R&D, alongside

current trends and innovations in production equipment. Turn to page 20 for more.

With the growing demand for cruelty-free and plant-based products, transformation is ongoing in skincare. In line with this trend, we take an in-depth look at a new plant-based anti-ageing ingredient on the market, while offering expert insights into the therapeutic potential of cannabinoids in dermatology.

Check out page 28

The hot topic of formulating hair care products tailored to diverse curl types is discussed on page 30. Learn more about novel ingredients and formulation technologies proven to cater to the unique needs of every curl type, with the aim of empowering individuals to embrace their natural beauty with confidence.

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

As Brenntag is the global market leader in chemical and ingredient distribution, we partner with premier suppliers to provide the best products to our Beauty & Care customers. Our dedicated team leverages the full range of our global supply chain and product range for home harmony.

Contact Charis Lewis

charis.lewis@brenntag.com

brenntag.com

EOC Surfactants rebranded product range

EOC Surfactants is committed to offering customers a more consistent product portfolio. As a result, the surfactants’ producer has made an important product name change to its range of home, personal care and I&I products. Originally preceded with the word Euro, the rebranded product range will now start with EXO. For example, Euroquat HC47 VG has been rebranded to EXOquat HC47.

The rebranding applies to all betaines, amphoacetates, alkanolamides aminoxides, mono-ester sulfosuccinates, di-ester sulfosuccinates, liquid soaps, pearlescents and opacifiers. These products are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals.

The new product names were implemented in March and forms part of EOC Surfactants’ efforts to align the product range with its corporate brand identity and the complete EOC Group product portfolio.

The products and product specifications remain unchanged and customers can expect the same level of quality and performance from each product they order going forward. Customers may need to update their internal documentation or processes, which refer to the old product name. To make this transition as smooth as possible, EOC Surfactants recommends using the new product names in all future communication and documentation. EOC Surfactants has also updated all internal and external documentation to the new product names. If you have open purchase orders related to the product, Savannah Fine Chemicals and EOC Surfactants will ensure that these are updated to the new product name.

Savannah Fine Chemicals is fully prepared to assist customers with any questions or concerns they may have regarding this transition. Visit eocgroup.com/surfactants for more information.

The use of a M12 coupler connector at the connection head of a thermometer, rather than a standard cable outlet, enables quick and safe connection. In the hygienic pharmaceutical industry, a design like this is being demanded more and more frequently.

In practice, plant manufacturers like to rely on preassembled cables with fitted connectors, since this eliminates having to fix the single strands into the thermometer head. One can considerably reduce the time required for assembly and disassembly during calibration or when replacing the instrument. Another advantage is that, in the event of changing out any instrument, incorrect re-wiring can be avoided.

Generally, to ensure plant operational safety and for maintenance and servicing, it is imperative that equipment is easy to clean and that moisture protection is at a maximum. These requirements apply to all process components, as well as beyond the process in the ‘splash zone’.

WIKA has adapted the full-metal M12 coupler connector, familiar from the TR21 (TR21-A, TR21-B, TR21-C) product line, to the cable outlet for thermometers with connection head, enabling a simple and reliable connection with a 4-pin M12 connection cable. The high-quality sealing concept of this connector has also been proven in the extreme requirements of autoclavable sensors. In addition to the already established TR21 miniature resistance thermometers, which were designed for the high IP requirements of sanitary applications, WIKA now offers thermometer products with connection heads – models TR20, TR22 (TR22-A, TR22-B), TR25 – with a hygienic M12 coupler connector for the hygienic pharmaceutical and food manufacturing industries. Visit www.wika.co.za for more information.

Sharon Personal Care wins award for Emulpharma Mimesis

Sharon Personal Care, a global supplier of innovative, environmentally friendly ingredient solutions for a broad range of personal care products, has received a Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T) Allē Award for its innovative green emulsifier Emulpharma Mimesis. The skincare technology is based on a combination of lecithin and polyglycerols, and can be used to design light and sprayable formulations. The Emulpharma Mimesis product was recognised in the category: Most Significant Skin Care Base Ingredient.

The C&T Allē Awards bring behind-the-scenes ingenuity in cosmetics and personal care R&D into the spotlight by honouring the scientific discipline, formulating skills, resourcefulness and creativity of innovators throughout the cosmetic product development process – from ingredient suppliers and finished product manufacturers, to test method/tool designers, digital tech developers, and more.

“We are honoured that our Emulpharma Mimesis ingredient was recognised by the editors of C&T with an Allē Award,” says Naama Eylon, CEO of Sharon Personal Care. “This is a testament to our ongoing commitment to innovation and sustainability in the personal care industry and reaffirms our dedication to developing

cutting-edge solutions that elevate skincare formulations. We are proud to be at the forefront of creating environmentally friendly ingredient solutions, which make a significant impact in the market.”

Available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, Emulpharma Mimesis enhances the effectiveness of skincare ingredients through its unique lamellar structure, facilitating the penetration of active molecules into deeper skin layers. The innovative emulsifying system offers multifunctionality and sustainability, allowing for the creation of fluid and sprayable emulsions across various cosmetic applications. Additionally, its cold process and one-pot-formulation approach simplifies manufacturing practices and contributes to more environmentally friendly processes.

In the assessment of Sharon Personal Care’s ingredient technology, a C&T judge said, “I appreciate all the testing performed and eco-sustainability. This is a unique emulsifying system with skincare benefit claims. It offers versatility and can be used hot or cold. I believe formulators will be interested in looking at this material – it is novel and extends formulations to sprayable and lighter textures.”

Clariant acquires Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

A sustainability-focused specialty chemical company, Clariant announced on 2 April that it has completed the acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. Clariant acquired the leading provider of highvalue ingredients for the cosmetics and personal care industry from IFF for an enterprise value (EV) of $810 million. The purchase price is subject to customary net debt and working capital adjustments.

“The acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is a prime example of how we implement our purpose-led growth strategy and support our goal of accelerating customer and sustainability driven innovation,” says Conrad Keijzer, CEO of Clariant. “The complementarity in customer portfolio, product portfolio, and

regional strongholds and capabilities in R&D and marketing make the combination of Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics a leading solutions provider for high value personal care brands.”

Christian Vang, president of the Clariant Business Unit Care Chemicals and the Americas region, adds: “I see the acquisition as significant progress for Care Chemicals.

Customers as well as consumers increasingly demand high value natural ingredients. I extend a warm welcome to 190 highly qualified professionals as our new colleagues at Clariant. We jointly look forward to exciting growth opportunities and expect to increase annual sales.”

Rimmel London launches Lasting Finish 35h foundation

New on the market, Rimmel London’s Lasting Finish 35h Foundation answers the call for long-lasting wear, providing full coverage for up to 35 hours.

It’s also designed to plump skin and is clinically proven to enhance skin radiance.

Gabi Sinclair, brand manager at Rimmel South Africa, says that the Lasting Finish 35h Foundation is sleep-proof, waterproof, and transfer-resistant.

environment, 86% of users agreed that their skin looked brighter and felt more radiant. Now that’s a telling statistic. This, with the product’s oil-free formula, remains a key consideration for consumers in the SA market and one of the key focuses for Rimmel,” says Sinclair.

The secret to the Lasting Finish 35h Foundation lies in the hard-working

ingredients contained in the formula. Hyaluronic acid supercharges the skin with moisture, plumping it up with a dewy, healthy glow.

The formula also contains 2% niacinamide, a vitamin that improves uneven skin tone, softens fine lines and wrinkles, diminishes dullness, and strengthens the skin’s surface. Lastly, vitamin E provides antioxidant properties that protect the skin’s barrier against damage from urban and digital aggressors, like air pollution and blue light.

The Lasting Finish 35h Foundation formulation includes SPF 20, to help protect the skin from harmful UV rays. Plus, it is 100% clean and vegan and, just like all Rimmel London’s products, it is approved and certified by the global Leaping Bunny cruelty-free programme. And, it’s truly designed for everyone.

The foundation is available in 34 shades, ranging from #1: Pearl to #700: Ebony, providing for the full spectrum of skin tones from season to season.

Before and after images of a woman who has applied Rimmel London’s Lasting Finish 35h Foundation in Toffee (Image: Rimmel South Africa)

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Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.

May

Pharma West Africa

8 to 10 May

Accra, Ghana

www.pharma-westafrica.com

Vitafoods Europe

14 to 16 May

Geneva, Switzerland

www.vitafoods.eu.com

Coschem JHB Supplier Day

15 May

Joburg, South Africa

www.coschem.co.za

www.achema.de/en/

Coschem

Westville Country Club, KZN

www.coschem.co.za

June July

Coschem CT Supplier Day

10 July

Carst & Walker, Pinelands, Cape Town

www.coschem.co.za

Cosmoprof North America

11 to 13 July

Las Vegas, USA

cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

in-cosmetics Korea

24 to 26 July

Seoul, South Korea

www.in-cosmetics.com/korea

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna celebrates excellent show results

Tantamount to innovation and excellence, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is an ideal global trade show to maximise business, expand your network of contacts and discover market trends. The 2024 trade show was a great success.

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna has once again confirmed that the trade show is a unique platform for the cosmetics industry and an incomparable development driver. According to Euromonitor International, the global cosmetics industry will $670 billion dollars in value by the end of the year, with an average CAGR of 9% expected for the next four years.

“It was an extremely positive edition, confirming the effervescence of the market, and above all the strategic importance of Cosmoprof for international operators,” said Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere. “We are also very grateful for the support and presence of the institutions and numerous representatives of the Italian Government.

The support of ITA – Italian Trade Agency has been particularly strategic: for this edition ITA involved over 70 offices to invite delegations from the main markets. Thanks to synergies with these institutions, we hosted top buyers from 113 countries. This extraordinary result responds to the needs of an industry, which is one of the flagships of Made in Italy, and which deserves proper recognition.”

2024 SHOW FACTS & FIGURES

• 3 012 exhibitors from 69 countries attended Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna – a 4% increase compared to 2023.

248 500 operators arrived in Bologna from 150 countries.

• The presence of international stakeholders increased by 9% compared to last year.

EXPORTS SURGE TO RECORD LEVELS

“The Italian cosmetics industry reported a turnover of more than €15 billion with exports at record levels and growing by over 20% in one year, as well as a trade balance of more than €4 billion.

“It was an extremely positive edition, confirming the effervescence of the market”

These numbers were presented at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, highlighting the importance of the industry for Made in Italy to the international fair attendees,” commented Benedetto Lavino, president of Cosmetica Italia – the Italian association of cosmetic companies.

“During the four intense days of the event, working side by side with the partners of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof, we were able to talk about the excellence expressed by our industry. In addition to the economic evidence, the event made it possible to highlight the great importance of the industry in terms of job creation, creating employment for more than 390 000 workers throughout the supply chain. Dialogue with representatives of various institutions who attended the show allowed us to present the value of our companies and consider about their specific needs.

These synergies are indispensable to face the challenges of the future.”

ADAPTING WELL TO CHANGE

The new show dates were appreciated by exhibitors. The opening of all pavilions from the Thursday encouraged incoming and networking with international professionals for all sectors.

“The response from our community to the new show dates was very positive. From the Thursday, high profile visitors were able to interact with our exhibitors to explore new business opportunities, with excellent result for all involved,” highlighted Enrico Zannini, general manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof.

“The Cosmoprof format has once again demonstrated that it can adapt to the needs of companies and operators for the development of the industry. After the great results of this edition, we are preparing to organise the next events of the international network with optimism and confidence.”

In the coming months Cosmoprof will be in Bangkok, Las Vegas, Hong Kong, Mumbai and Miami. Thereafter the show will return to Bologna for the next edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, from 20 to 23 March 2025.

For more information on Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna and the associated global events, visit www.cosmoprof.com .

•

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2024 show highlights (Images: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof)

The future of fabric care is sustainable

In a world where sustainability is paramount, IMCD’s Home Care and I&I team has pioneered a ground-breaking approach to fabric care with the launch of its water-based rain repellent.

Through the meticulous consideration of five key sustainability aspects – energy consumption, ingredients, efficiency, packaging, and consumer education – IMCD’s Home Care and I&I team is on a mission to improve the sustainability of fabric care formulations. From the first molecule of a formulation to the end of a product’s lifecycle, the team’s technical experts have carefully considered each of the five aforementioned areas to present its latest sustainable solution: a water-based rain repellent.

" IMCD’s Home Care and I&I team is on a mission to improve the sustainability of fabric care formulations"

Imagine a fabric care solution that not only protects outdoor items from moisture and aqueous soils, but also extends their lifespan. IMCD's water-based rain repellent does just that, reducing the need for frequent washing while conserving valuable resources. For example, adding water repellence to an outdoor cushion will result in less frequent washing of the item, saving valuable resources used in the washing cycle, while prolonging the life of the cushion.

Through extensive research, the Home Care and I&I team has been able to improve the chemistry of repellent formulations to

offer an enhanced solution formulated with the optimum number of ingredients.

SAFE, EFFECTIVE AND EASY TO USE

IMCD’s water-based rain repellent promises to provide protection from moisture and aqueous soil, leading to a longer lifespan of the item treated with the product.

In this formulation, the team replaced fluorocarbons (PFAS), which are recognised as dangerous cumulative chemicals for human and aquatic life. The product is designed with an optimised combination of Wacker’s silicone emulsions (Liosil® HC 603 and 621) and silicone resin. It is also free from propellants and other flammable chemicals.

sustainable fabric care kit. IMCD’s sustainable fabric care kit offers the market a gateway to sustainable fabric care solutions to create a cleaner, safer and more circular future for home care and I&I.

To create an effective and safe finished product in a spray format, you need to use of less than 2% of the active content in a cold stirring mixing process, making the rain repellent both cost-effective and easy to use.

Its exceptional performance is tested on synthetic (polyamide and polyester-cotton) and natural (cotton) fibres, offering the market a versatile formulation with extensive application prospects from clothes and shoes to furniture and accessories for outdoors.

SUSTAINABLE FABRIC CARE KIT

The kit also includes a 25mℓ ultra concentrate laundry detergent, which is based on conventional surfactants like SLS, SLES and FAEO, and makes use of highly engineered enzymes. The launch of new protease and mannanase enzymes completes the new generation range, providing a level of stability in detergent systems that has never been achieved before without the addition of a stabiliser to either the molecules or the formulation. This ensures the product’s solid performance over time.

Next up is the 25mℓ EO-free ultra concentrate laundry detergent. With the addition of methyl oleoyl taurate and APG, IMCD has successfully achieved an EO-free formulation. Except for the APG, all other surfactants in the formulation are waterfree. The addition of glycerine, bio-ethanol and zemea was necessary to achieve a stable base, low viscosity formulation. For improved performance, IMCD added premium new generation enzymes – all of which are highly engineered and offer high stability. •

The PFAS-free water-based rain repellent is part of a larger collection of fabric care solutions, collectively known as the IMCD

Homecare Solutions

PFAS-Free Water-Based Rain Repellent

At IMCD Home Care and I&I, we have considered five key aspects to improve the sustainability of fabric care formulations: Energy consumption, ingredients, efficiency, packaging and consumer education. From a formulations very first molecule, right through to the end of a products lifecycle, our technical experts have carefully considered each of the five aforementioned areas and are pleased to present our latest sustainable solution - our Water-Based Rain Repellent.

Key Benefits

•Water-based formulation - protective against moisture and aqueous soil (tested with Wine, Coffee)

•100% Free from Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs)

•Free from propellants

•Free from flammable labels

•Optimised combination of silicone emulsions and silicone resin

•Use of less than 2% active content

•Cold stirrer mixing process

•Great performance on synthetic (Polyamide and Polyester-Cotton) and natural (Cotton) fibres

•Versatile formulation for a broad use – clothes, shoes, and accessories for outdoors

•Effective and safe spray – particles size is in the micrometre range

IMCD South Africa

275 Oak Avenue PO Box 1378 Randburg 2125 South Africa

Trusted preservatives for the home

If you’re looking to make the shift to safer preservatives in your home care products, consider Arxada’s Proxel range. These cost-effective and specialist blends are proven safe for the environment and human health.

By Abby Vorster

The surge in popularity for safe and effective preservatives stems from changing consumer preferences in favour of natural and transparent product labels. This shift is fuelled by a heightened recognition of the potential health and environmental hazards linked to conventional preservatives such as methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and formaldehyde.

"BIT is considered a better alternative to formaldehyde and CMIT/MIT"

Much like the personal care industry, greener preservative options have now become mainstream in household cleaning products. Mintel data shows benzisothiazolinone (BIT) started to outperform MIT in the EU and MEA with an incremental increase in home care products preserved with BIT recorded during the period from 2022 to 2023.

A SAFER ALTERNATIVE

BIT is considered a better alternative to formaldehyde and CMIT/MIT. It is widely recognised as one of the most versatile, compatible, and trusted broad spectrum preservative solutions available for the home care market.

BIT is the primary active ingredient in Arxada’s Proxel® range. Aside from single-active products based on BIT alone, the Proxel range encompasses cost-effective and specialist blends with carefully identified co-actives providing flexibility of choice for difficult-topreserve systems.

Proxel GXL and Proxel AQ are the two options included in this range. Both preservatives have been preapproved by the EPA for use in Safer Choice labelled products and have been reviewed by NSF International’s Sustainability Programme. For consumers, the Safer Choice logo provides recognition that the product has been evaluated for its effect on the environment and human health.

Did you know?

The antimicrobial action of BIT supports consumers in their desire to use cleaning products with lower concentrations of harsh chemicals. This helps them reduce the overall chemical load in their homes, making the home a safer environment for pets and humans alike.

PROPERTIES & STRENGTHS OF PROXEL GXL:

• Halogen-free and formaldehyde-free

Stable in the presence of alkalis and amines

• Heat stable and non-volatile

• Broad-spectrum activity

• Aqueous dipropylene glycol solution

• Long-term preservation

• Compatible with anionics.

WATER-BASED PRODUCT PROTECTION

Proxel GXL preservative is a broad-spectrum biocide for the preservation of industrial waterbased products against spoilage from bacteria, yeasts and fungi. It is a 20% aqueous dipropylene glycol solution of 1,2-benzisothiazolin-3-one. The preservative is effective in a wide range of household product applications.

This preservative has a non-specific mode of action which means that bacterial resistance is very unlikely to occur. When formulating, it should be added to the system as early in the process as possible. The concentration required to adequately preserve your product depends on several factors. These include the susceptibility of the system to microbiological degradation, the extent to which microorganisms can gain access, the species involved, pH, temperature, and length of time for which protection is required.

For more information or formulation guidelines, contact Savannah Fine Chemicals, the approved distributor of Arxada’s products in South Africa. •

Arxada – www.arxada.com/en/homepersonal-care.html

Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za

INGREDIENTS THAT INSPIRE CREATIVITY

speciality chemicals, including surfactants, emulsifiers, additives & preservative systems. We represent leading global manufacturers and along with high quality products, our value added services include formulation advice, ideas & documentation support for the following key application areas:

Today’s consumers have less time for cleaning and are looking for quick, convenient solutions. Acusol™ Pro Polymer, a formulation additive from AECI® Specialty Chemicals for hard surface cleaners, offers superior grease removal compared to other cleaning additives. It also leaves behind an invisible barrier that makes subsequent cleaning even easier – with no build-up.

Over time, consumers will notice a significant reduction in the ‘elbow grease’ needed to keep their surfaces clean, resulting in greater customer loyalty for your cleaning product.

ENHANCED FORMULATION FLEXIBILITY

Acusol Pro, the anionically charged water soluble polymer, enables formulators to develop streak-free surface cleaners with the promise of superior grease removal. This innovative technology can be easily incorporated into

BENEFITS

• Outstanding grease removal

• Easy next time cleaning

• No streaking or film residue

Acts as a hydrotrope

"Acusol Pro enables formulators to develop streakfree surface cleaners with the promise of superior grease removal"

a formula and is particularly suitable for neutral and alkaline cleaners such as all-purpose, kitchen and floor cleaner/ degreasers when incorporated at typical levels of 0/5% to 1.0%.

Acusol Pro can also be used as a hydrotrope, because it can stabilise blends of otherwise incompatible surfactants, solvents, or other adjuvants, allowing the preparation of more concentrated formulations with greater formulation flexibility.

• Can help improve a formulation’s long-term stability Easy to incorporate into a formulation

• Stable in formulations containing hypochlorite bleach

• Stable in trigger spray formulations containing up to 0.25% ADBAC.

Testing conditions: The KW method for quality assessment of all-purpose cleaners was used for performance evaluation. Oily soil was applied and cooked at 150°C for 195 minutes. Photos were taken after similar strokes using similar sponge and pressure.

The polymer is stable in trigger spray formulations containing hypochlorite bleach or quaternary disinfectant.

Together with its esteemed technology partners, AECI Specialty Chemicals has crafted a comprehensive range of solutions to meet all your home care needs. •

INCI NAME: CARBOXYLIC COPOLYMER

Physical and chemical properties:

• Transparent, yellowish liquid

• Mild inoffensive odour

• 25% active content

Formulation guidelines:

Recommended level of addition at 0.5% to 1.0% active

• Post addition feasible.

AECI

Tired of spending hours scrubbing away stubborn stains and grime?

Introducing Acusol™ Pro Polymer – your ultimate solution for easy next time cleaning

With its cutting-edge technology, Acusol™ Pro Polymer revolutionizes the way you clean.

• Superior grease removal

• Easy next time cleaning

• Non-streaking

Yurita.Boodhram@aeciworld.com

Natashia.Govender@aeciworld.com

NEXT TIME,

LESS TIME

In

AI shapes the future of beauty packaging design

a new report, Mintel explores the impact of artificial intelligence on beauty packaging worldwide and celebrates brand owner innovation using this technology.

Beauty packaging has long been synonymous with opulence and sophistication; even ancient perfume bottles were manufactured in a variety of pleasing shapes from glass or terracotta. Most agree that if a product claims to make you beautiful, it should also look appealing.

Now AI technology is expanding the limits of what’s possible with beauty packaging design. For example, the House of Guerlain celebrated its 170 th anniversary using AI prompts to create a digital exhibition of the iconic bee bottle from its establishment in 1853 into year 2193 in the future.

TRANSPARENCY AND TECHNOLOGY

AI will help streamline many aspects of the beauty packaging manufacturing process while helping customers get the most out of their products. For example, Mintel analysts are predicting that AI and sustainability will go hand in hand, creating a trend of quiet sustainability where environmental credibility is a given, not a bonus or the be-all and end-all of a product.

Mintel found that 41% of fragrance launches in 2023 included ethical and environmental claims, up from 18% in 2019. The quiet aspect of the trend comes from consumers not wanting sustainability to compromise the look of a potential luxury product. Therefore, packaging manufacturers must be smart about embedding sustainability into a whole product without having to make a compromise on aesthetics.

Bastille Parfums is using AI and RFID technology to achieve non-negotiable transparency with its fragrance products. The brand’s Paradis Nuit Eau de Parfum now features a QR code on the bottle which users can scan to access the full lifecycle of all the ingredients used in the fragrance, including their origin, and the names of the companies that produced the packaging as well as the date of bottling.

CLEAN AND SOPHISTICATED PACKAGING

“Packaging manufacturers must be smart about embedding sustainability into a whole product”

The brand’s uncomplicated packaging has been continually innovated to remove any unnecessary material and the design is elegant and contemporary. This way customers are more likely to buy the product based on the tangible results it can deliver, instead of superficial fluff.

RECYCLABILITY INCENTIVES

Many of Charlotte Tilbury’s direct competitors are yet to implement an efficient product recycling scheme with sufficient incentives to customers. Charlotte Tilbury’s competitors include Glossier, L’Oréal, Estee Lauder, Anastasia Beverly Hills and Hourglass. These brands must consider not only the manufacturer and composition of their products but also the fate of the product beyond its usefulness.

HERITAGE-INSPIRED DESIGNS

Hand in hand with the trend of quiet sustainability is clean, simple and sophisticated packaging, where consumers are prioritising efficacy and functionality in their purchases. Some stand-out quiet beauty packaging examples can be seen with Malin + Goetz, a cruelty-free skincare brand with a mission to “uncomplicate your regime”. Mintel

A key packaging element that’s growing in popularity is recyclability incentives. Charlotte Tilbury has introduced easy recycling schemes for selected products. Customers simply access the recycling portal online, fill in the form to be sent a free returns label and they’ll receive a 20% discount off a new refillable moisturiser once the process is complete.

The last trend on Mintel’s radar is a step beyond the well-known psychological trend of nostalgia towards a revival of heritage-inspired packaging designs, particularly in fragrance. Alongside a call for quiet and simple beauty packaging, is a concurrent trend speaking to designs that appeal to societal nostalgia – perhaps a nostalgia that consumers are too young to personally connect with but that is synonymous with decadence and exaggeration.

Officine Universelle Buly positions ancestral beauty at the heart of its brand and its packaging features delicate classical paintings with gold accents. The brand also uses ingredients inspired by ancient techniques and recipes as an element of the quiet beauty trend. These ingredients have worked for generations and still work today.

THINKING AHEAD

Consumers are seeking proof of efficacy from their beauty products and packaging is the most straightforward way to convey this marketing message.

Mintel is predicting a step back to the basics with many brands, perhaps with a strategic shift in budget allocation towards more important things, like improving the lifecycle of a product. However, it’s important to note that simplicity does not have to mean unappealing. In the upcoming months, Mintel analysts predict a rise in gorgeous beauty packaging designs using AI imaginings and heritage-inspired designs. •

WIKA Instruments (Pty) Ltd

Chilvers Street, Denver

Johannesburg, 2094 South Africa

Tel: +27 11 621 00 00

Email: sales@wika.co.za

COMPETENT AND COMPLIANT

There are continuously stringent demands on quality and product safety in pharmaceutical production, and sterile process engineering plays a significant part in this. From measuring instruments, this demands a combination of the most up-to-date hygienic design with high measuring accuracy.

Measuring instruments from WIKA are manufactured in line with the GMP guidelines (good manufacturing practice). They meet the stringent requirements of, e.g.:

FDA (Food and Drug Administration)

EHEDG (European Hygienic Engineering & Design Group)

3-A Sanitary Standards, Inc.

ASME BPE (Bio Processing Equipment)

ATEX (directive 94/9/EC)

For the proof of conformity within the scope of an FDA approval and national authorities, we have an extensive programme ready-certified. For the ongoing testing of the instruments in the context of quality management, a wide range of calibration equipment and calibration services are available.

Specialist Measurement Technology for the Pharmaceutical Industry.

Advanced instruments to empower R&D

Anton Paar Southern Africa offers a comprehensive portfolio of rotational viscometers and rotational/oscillatory rheometers for pharmaceutical research and development.

The measuring instrument specialist, Anton Paar is equipped to meet all demands of the pharmaceutical industry, both in quality control and research and development.

Anton Paar offers a variety of solutions to determine the flow and deformation behaviour of numerous materials – from liquids and ointments to evaporation fluids, catheter polymers, and pills in powder form. The portfolio covers

everything from entry-level rotational viscometers ideal for use in quality control to high-end rotational and oscillatory rheometers (with the option of two drives) for research and development.

DATA INTEGRITY AND COMPLIANCE

Anton Paar viscometers and rheometers are fully compliant with the regulations of 21 CFR Part 11 and provide complete data integrity based on ALCOA principles. Their features include password access and

password complexity requirements, audit trail, electronic signatures, customisable users/user groups, external storage via automated LIMS bridge and much more.

The rotational viscometer ViscoQC is compliant with the same pharmacopeial chapters of other viscometers. It also has a wide range of additional features for fully traceable results, such as the automatic alignment check and automatic spindle as well as spindle guard recognition.

YOU’RE INVITED!

Join Anton Paar Southern Africa for an upcoming pharmaceutical and cosmetic workshop, Beauty to Medicine in a Nutshell, on Wednesday 5 June. Attendance is free; the workshop will explore the various measuring technologies needed to adhere to industry standards and regulations.

Find out more here: https://tinyurl.com/2b46khbk.

EXTENSIVE USABILITY AND MODULARITY

Anton Paar instruments are equipped with numerous features that make it easy to measure challenging samples of any type and help avoid human errors. For example, the automatic spindle/measuring system recognition by Toolmaster™ prevents manual selection errors and ensures full traceability of results. The unique air-counter-cooled Peltier temperature devices not only help save space in laboratories but also reduce

maintenance costs compared to established water bath solutions

Anton Paar rheometers provide a high level of modularity and employ measuring techniques such as powder rheology, dynamic mechanical analysis, structure analysis supported by microscopy, Raman spectroscopy, and more. With a wide range of accessories, external influences such as temperature, humidity, pressure etc. can be simulated and applied to the material during measurement.

GLOBAL SERVICE AND EXPERT SUPPORT

The measuring instrument specialist provides instrument qualification documents and service. Anton Paar’s Pharma Qualification offering helps customers save time and money during instrument qualification while supporting them throughout annual audit processes by the regulator. Customers also benefit from a global application and service network, broad application knowledge, and local support in the regional technical centres. •

“Anton Paar viscometers and rheometers are fully compliant with the regulations of 21 CFR Part 11”

Anton Paar – www.anton-paar.com/ pharmacompliance

Trends and innovation in production equipment

The demand for pharmaceuticals continues to increase, yet the requirements are changing – impacting production equipment. Machines for packaging medicines are not exempt from these changes, while manufacturers are driven by them. Armin Scheuermann explores these trends in a new Achema report.

Biopharmaceuticals are the real mimosas: heat, moisture, oxygen ingress or simply the wrong light can cause these sensitive drugs, produced from living organisms or cells, to lose efficacy. This became particularly clear during the pandemic. The new mRNA vaccines from Biontech-Pfizer and Moderna required sophisticated packaging and logistics concepts to ensure storage temperatures between -60°C and -80°C, for example. Although manufacturers have been working feverishly and successfully on less sensitive active ingredients – packaging remains an essential element in the fight against past and future pandemics.

The example of vaccines only highlights the importance of pharmaceutical packaging. Every second new drug approved in the EU is produced using genetic engineering, particularly sensitive to environmental influences and must be packaged accordingly. Furthermore, there are increasing regulatory requirements for production technology, such as Annex 1 to Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP guidelines), which was finalised in 2022. This will regulate the sterile production and filling and packaging of medicinal products with the aim of reducing contamination risks.

MARKET INSIGHTS INTO GROWTH

It's no wonder that the market for pharmaceutical packaging machines is growing disproportionately – at a rate even stronger than the market for pharmaceuticals. Market researchers from Evaluate Pharma expect the global pharmaceutical industry to grow by 6% annually between 2022 and 2028 to $1.6 trillion.

In parallel, Mordor Intelligence predicts the market for pharmaceutical packaging will grow by 8.24%, while 7.5% growth per year is expected for pharmaceutical packaging machines.

The rising costs for filling, packaging and labelling medicines are being met by declining revenues for pharmaceutical manufacturers. Since the vaccine boom during the pandemic, the pharmaceutical industry has not only been struggling with declining sales, but also with the cost explosion due to the energy crisis.

"

Flexibility is a buzzword found at the heart of most industry developments"

The market value of listed biotech companies has halved, while the prices for inputs – including chemical precursors – have risen significantly since 2022. This has placed pressure on the pharmaceutical industry because, for example in the EU, manufacturers must sell some of their products at fixed prices.

These and other trends are being reflected in enquiries for and specifications of packaging machines. For example, in the past, demand focused on filling and sealing machines with high output and lines designed specifically for one drug. Yet today’s requirements show

a preference for flexible lines with quick and automatic changeovers to accommodate new products and other packaging formats. The trend towards smaller batches also plays a key role. It is noticeable that the desire for flexible production processes is no longer unique to contract manufacturers only, but also brand owner manufacturers.

A NEED FOR FLEXIBLE FILLING AND PACKAGING PROCESSES

The flexibility development is clearly illustrated by injectable preparations. Already prior to the pandemic, machine manufacturers had registered immense interest in ready-to-fill syringes. With ready-to-use (RTU) syringes, the medicine is filled directly into a sterilised syringe. This not only reduces the risk of contamination during preparation and administration, but also avoids dosing errors.

The customer’s desire to find improved packaging solutions that are more costeffective is a driving force for machine manufacturers. Flexibility is a buzzword found at the heart of most industry developments. For example, Syntegon introduced the Versynta flexible filling system as a platform with which biopharmaceuticals can be filled both in RTU syringes and in bulk packaging within the isolator. To significantly reduce project times, supplier Groninger also promotes flexibility with the Flexfill concept, but combines it with standardised modules, which are also housed in the isolator or RABS. Bausch+Ströbel relies on modularisation and has radically reduced the number of format parts in the new CombiSys line. This makes it comparatively

easy to convert the machine from vials to RTU packaging, for example.

NEW TRANSPORT SYSTEMS AND DIGITAL TECHNOLOGIES

Bausch+Ströbel achieves multiple benefits with a magnetic transport system that moves the packaging material through the machine. In contrast to common drives, a fixed cycle time is no longer required, which increases flexibility. At the same time, the magnetic drive makes wipers and bellows seals unnecessary, eliminating contamination risks in the sterile area.

Optima has also addressed the transport of packaging materials in the machine. With the new FillCell formatless transport system, the main aim is to increase product yield. Especially with expensive active ingredients, it is important to avoid losses during machine start-up.

Machine manufacturers are taking this requirement into account with new dosing and filling systems, and optimised transport, monitoring and labelling solutions. This is where digital technologies play an increasingly important role. It starts with training operators with virtual reality goggles on digitised equipment, extends to the seamless recording of production parameters in the production process, and ends with the evaluation and visualisation of key areas such as Overall Equipment Effectiveness (OEE), which is

Did you know?

Achema 2024 takes place from 10 to 14 June in Frankfurt, Germany. With manufacturers and service providers from over 50 countries presenting their products for chemical, pharmaceutical and biotech research and manufacturing, this trade show is the driving force of global process industries and their suppliers.

becoming more and more important in the highly competitive pharmaceutical industry.

The Körber Group is an example of a machine supplier dedicated to this topic, using its manufacturing execution system (MES) to analyse the operational efficiency of biopharmaceutical manufacturing processes based on different and previously unnetworked data. Among other things, this should enable biopharmaceutical manufacturers to significantly accelerate their time to market.

Uhlmann Pac-Systeme networks machines and entire plants of any manufacturer via interfaces with a new software system, Pexcite, enabling centralised monitoring and control. In addition to looking at line efficiency and planning set-up times, this makes it easier to comply with regulatory obligations.

ROBOTS IN GLOVE-FREE ISOLATOR, SCALABLE PARENTERAL PRODUCTION

The automation strategy of many manufacturers now includes the use of robots –not only at the end of the line to stack packaged medicines on pallets, but also in the sterile isolator. Machine developers are benefiting from the fact that, on the one hand, the range of cleanroom-suitable robots is steadily growing, while the costs for robotics are continually falling. In this way, automated solutions are increasingly replacing the otherwise necessary gloved interventions on the isolator. This is because in the demanding sterile production of high-quality medicines, human intervention is increasingly being perceived as a nuisance and is being replaced by technical solutions.

At the machine manufacturer IMA, the gloveless aseptic process in the isolator is being promoted under the name, Injecta.

The machine manufacturers already mentioned in this article are also pursuing the trend towards aseptic filling without human intervention with their own solutions. The development is consistently implementing the requirements of the new GMP Annex 1. In many places, this also includes dispensing with the time-consuming sterilisation of primary packaging material using sterile packaging materials.

In general, the packaging of sterile preparations for injection and infusion (parenterals) is very demanding, and the machine technology is expensive. This becomes particularly challenging when the success of a drug and its required quantity are not yet known. The folding box manufacturer Faller Packaging has developed a scalable solution to this problem together with the machine manufacturer, Schubert-Pharma. It

starts with the initial manual loading of preprepared folding box packaging. As soon as demand increases, cobots are used until the process is finally switched to a fully automatic top-loading machine.

SPOTLIGHT ON SUSTAINABILITY

Process development around the primary packaging of medicines isn’t the only thing that follows the new requirements of pharmacists.

Advances in secondary packaging in terms of folding boxes, trays and cartons are also progressing. In addition to flexibility and product safety, key trends here are resource optimisation and low CO ₂ emissions. This is because the topic of sustainability is finding itself at the forefront of business practices in the pharmaceutical industry via CSR and ESG criteria.

To improve the recyclability of packaging, Uhlmann is increasingly relying on packaging made of mono-materials. With the Parenteral Tray Centre, the manufacturer has introduced a flexible ‘direct-in-carton’ solution, which can pack ampoules, vials and syringes in cardboard trays made of mono-material and in conventional plastic clamp blisters.

Recyclable packaging places new demands on machine manufacturers. This is why close collaboration between the machine manufacturer and packaging supplier is key. Faller Packaging employs a 3R approach of Redesign, Reduce, Recycle. In addition to the use of new recyclable mono-materials, this includes testing existing products and processes with the aim of minimising raw materials and energy usage.

Labelling technology is also evolving. In the past decade this was mainly characterised by the fight against counterfeit medicines, yet new requirements are now coming to the fore with regard to biopharmaceuticals.

The development of innovative labelling solutions with sensor functions is a notable trend. These ‘smart labels’ include printable indicators that can be used to monitor the storage temperature of a medicine or the temperature at which it is administered. If the medicine is exposed to heat or UV that exceeds a defined value, the indicator on the packaging changes colour. This is another piece in the puzzle of safely controlling biopharmaceutical use in everyday life. •

A novel approach to processing liquids

At Achema, Syntegon will showcase its comprehensive expertise in the flexible processing of liquid pharmaceuticals. An advanced filling machine, expanded inspection system, process and assembly solutions, and comprehensive service offerings will be on display.

Tobias Göttler, director product management pharma liquid at Syntegon, explains: “Regulations such as Annex 1, high-value drugs, and the increasing use of ready-to-use or RTU containers require highly efficient technologies along the entire value chain. With innovative solutions, extended functions for proven systems, and new services, we enable pharmaceutical manufacturers to produce sensitive drugs according to the most recent industry requirements.”

PRECISE FILLING TECHNOLOGY

The ALF 5000 V was introduced for the precise and gentle filling of small-volume parenterals.

The peristaltic pump with up to 12 filling stations enables gentle product handling and precise dosing of very small batches. Thanks to the optional twin fill process from the new Max Pro portfolio, the filling weight can be optimally determined and readjusted via main and secondary dosing with 100% in-process control at any time.

THE HOT TOPIC OF RTU

RTU containers are very popular for both small batches and high-performance lines.

Visitors to Achema can gain insights into Syntegon’s comprehensive technological and pharma expertise in the RTU Open Space area. In addition to virtual presentations of the Versynta portfolio for small and micro batches,

the equipment manufacturer’s experts will offer comprehensive advice on all aspects of RTU containers – from Annex 1 compliance and filling with 100% IPC to the use of gloveless barrier technologies.

FIRST-CLASS INSPECTION

After filling, the highly precise inspection of products and containers ensures product quality.

In a live demonstration at the show, Syntegon will reveal how visual inspection and leak detection (CCIT) can be efficiently combined on a space-saving AIM5 for vials. The machine on display features a combination of a pre-rotation tower and camera technology for the visual inspection of liquid and lyophilised products as well as a state-of-the-art measuring sensor in the star wheel for oxygen measurement.

FLEXIBLE ASSEMBLY OF SMALL BATCHES

Pens and autoinjectors play a key role in antidiabetics and weight management products. They can be precisely assembled thanks to the new RMA from Syntegon.

This space-saving, semi-automatic assembly machine for clinical trials and small batches was developed in close cooperation with its customers. The system supports

With the AIM series, Syntegon has been setting standards in the flexible inspection of vials, syringes, cartridges and ampoules for decades. Did you know?

pharma manufacturers in determining the properties of their drug delivery systems and assembling them in accordance with regulatory standards.

ANNEX 1 COMPLIANCE

In addition to the successful RABS retrofits for existing equipment, the patented Settle Plate Changer SPC 1000 has recently been added to the portfolio.

“Viable monitoring has become even more important when filling sterile products in the context of EU GMP Annex 1,” says Steffen Gröber, global product manager service at Syntegon. “Settle plates may be exposed to cleanroom air for a maximum of four hours and must then be replaced. The new automatic settle plate changer significantly reduces manual operator intervention to replace the plates. This greatly decreases the necessary production interruptions and the negative impact on machine availability.”

The SPC 1000, available for new and existing machines, fulfils another requirement of Annex 1, reducing to a minimum human intervention in the process zone and the risk of contamination.

COMPREHENSIVE PROCESSING EXPERTISE

Visitors to the Syntegon stand can also obtain advice on customer and pharma services. These include service agreements, the cloudbased software solution Synexio, as well as qualification and validation services.

With its broad portfolio, Syntegon covers all steps in the production of liquid pharmaceuticals, including a new bioprocessing system and formulation systems for smallvolume parenterals from the subsidiary Pharmatec as well as freeze dryers with a patented loading and unloading concept from Schoeller-Bleckmann Medizintechnik.

Learn more about these technologies and services and meet the experts at Achema, from 10 to 14 June in Frankfurt, Germany. •

Syntegon – www.syntegon.com/achema

The ALF 5000 V platform enables pharma manufacturers to achieve high yields and precise filling processes

The RMA assembly machine for small batches of antidiabetic pens and weight management products

Compliant Spectroscopic Solutions for Regulated Pharmaceutical Industries

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FT-IR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and cost-effective compliance.

 Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP

 Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ

 Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

 ALPHA II - Compact and Reliable FT-IR Spectroscopy

State-of-the-Art FT-IR spectrometers should be effi cient and straightforward above all else. The ALPHA II follows this approach and makes FT-IR analysis easier than ever before. The user can swiftly exchange Bruker’s versatile QuickSnap™ sampling modules to ideally fi t the device to almost any kind of sample (e.g. solids, liquids and gases).

 BRAVO - Handheld Raman Spectrometer

BRAVO mitigates fluorescence (SSE™), addresses a large spectral range (Duo LASER™) including CH stretching region and is a class 1M Laser product. The intuitive and guide workflow gives the ability for Raman spectroscopy into everybody’s hands

LUMOS II - Fully Automated Stand-Alone FT-IR Microscope

LUMOS II provides best performance for visual inspection and infrared spectral analysis of micro samples with highest comfort in use.

TANGO - The Next Generation of FT-NIR Spectrometer

Faster, simpler, more secure - with TANGO your NIR analysis speeds up. TANGO has exactly what users require of an FT-NIR spectrometer suitable for industrial use: robustness, high precision and straightforward operator guidance.

Bruker South Africa (Pty) Ltd

Unit A-A001-G

Contact us for more details: www.bruker.com/optics info.za@bruker.com

Ground Floor, Lincolnwood Office Park Woodlands Drive, Woodmead Johannesburg 2191

Tel: +27 11 463-6040

FT-IR, FT-NIR, RAMAN

Tools to ensure precision and efficiency in pharma production

The world of pharmaceutical production demands the utmost in reliability, accuracy and hygiene. From mixing and filling to autoclaving and cleaning, every step of the process hinges on precise monitoring and control.

VEGA introduced its new compact instrument series, specifically designed to address the needs of standard applications in the pharmaceutical industry. These instruments offer a perfect blend of compactness, flexibility, hygiene, and ease of use, without compromising on the renowned reliability and performance associated with the VEGA brand.

HYGIENIC SENSORS AND SWITCHES

The VEGABAR series of pressure sensors and switches caters to various standard pressure measurement applications. Their compact size and flexible design make these sensors ideal for space-constrained environments, while their hygienic construction ensures product purity and simplifies cleaning procedures. Additionally, VEGA, with its proven portfolio of instrumentation, is a trusted partner for plant operators worldwide, ensuring optimal performance even under the strictest regulations and harshest conditions.

ADDITIONAL FEATURES OF VEGA’S NEW INSTRUMENT SERIES:

• 360° switching status display to nsures quick identification of process changes from any direction.

Wireless communication that simplifies setup and operation, particularly in cleanroom environments.

• Proven track record resulting from decades of experience gained in serving the pharmaceutical industry with reliable instrumentation.

integrating IO-Link communication facilitates seamless data transfer and system integration.

The VEGAPOINT series of level switches offer adaptability and user-friendliness for diverse level measurement tasks. Their intuitive operation and clear status display enable operators to react quickly to process changes, while their robust design ensures reliable performance even during rigorous CIP and SIP cleaning processes.

" VEGAPULS 42 is an ideal sensor for non-contact level measurement of liquids and bulk solids"

The VEGAPULS 42 is an ideal sensor for non-contact level measurement of liquids and bulk solids in simple to moderate applications. The optional universal connection for hygienic adapters ensures reduced installation effort and leaner stockkeeping while fulfilling the requirements of hygienic processes in the pharmaceutical and food and beverage industries. With IO-Link, it offers continuous digital data transmission.

VALUE-ADDING ADVANTAGES

The benefits of VEGA's new compact instrument series extend far beyond the instruments themselves.

The advantages include:

• Increased process efficiency with reduced downtime and optimised production cycles, which translate into significant cost savings.

• Enhanced product quality thanks to consistent and reliable measurements, which ensure adherence to strict quality standards.

• Simplified maintenance resulting from the easy installation, configuration and maintenance, minimising disruptions and resource allocation.

• Lower costs due to reduced spare parts inventory and operational expenses, which contribute to improved bottom-line performance.

SOLUTIONS TAILORED TO YOUR NEEDS

VEGA goes beyond simply providing instruments. The supplier offers a modular platform that allows for tailored solutions to meet your specific needs, ensuring a perfect fit for your unique production environment.

Its complete offering encompasses both level and pressure measurement, eliminating the need to deal with multiple vendors. With experienced engineers available worldwide, VEGA provides unparalleled global support throughout the entire lifecycle of your instrumentation.

Partnering with VEGA means choosing a reliable supplier dedicated to your success in the demanding world of pharmaceutical production. Experience the positive impact VEGA’s expertise and innovative solutions can have on your operations.

Contact VEGA today to learn more about its complete solutions and how they can optimise your pharmaceutical production processes. •

With its proven portfolio of instrumentation, VEGA is a trusted partner for plant operators worldwide

MINIMAL EFFORT FOR MAXIMUM PROCESS HYGIENE.

THE 6X ®. FROM VEGA.

For level applications with maximum hygienic standards, perfection can be achieved with extensive cleaning or, make it simple, just use a VEGAPULS 6X radar level sensor. Made for all media, all ambient conditions and, most importantly, for uncompromising levels of hygiene.

VEGA. HOME OF VALUES.

www.vega.com/radar

Cannabinoids present a promising frontier in dermatology

BioMedical Emporium, a biotechnology company, explores the therapeutic potential of cannabis as a vegan-friendly ingredient for inflammatory skin diseases.

Cannabis sativa (C. sativa) has been reported to aid in the treatment of spasticity, nausea, chronic pain, anorexia and numerous other conditions and symptoms. It is therefore no surprise that the potential therapeutic value of C. sativa is being considered for dermatological disorders, specifically pruritus and inflammatory skin diseases.

The skin is the largest organ of the body. Research has been done on the skin’s endocannabinoid system (ECS) to establish its role in the functioning of the skin and how disturbances in its regular actions can contribute to the dermal development of pathological skin disorders. Studies involving cannabinoid receptors, antagonists, selective antagonists and other regulatory compounds have confirmed that these agents can regulate the actions of the endocannabinoids during inflammation and therefore have the potential to influence the immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory actions of the ECS. This also suggests that using agents capable of influencing the ECS holds enormous potential when developing vegan-friendly topical treatments for dermatological disorders.

MULTIFACETED

of cannabinoids within the skin is a relatively novel research field although topical cannabis preparations have been formulated and applied even in ancient medical literature. In ancient times, topical cannabis was mainly used for its antimicrobial properties. In terms of modern medicine, several studies have documented the potential capacity of cannabis to treat acne, eczema, allergic contact dermatitis, psoriasis, pruritis, skin cancer and various other dermal disorders.

" CBD oil and hemp seed oil stand out as potential skin care candidates"

temperatures. Nevertheless, when advanced drug delivery systems are used in formulation design cannabinoids can achieve successful dermal delivery. For instance, nanoparticles, liposomes and micelles can potentially assist with incorporating and delivering cannabinoids.

Regarding dermal application, the high γ-linoleic acid content of cannabis seeds has been considered to treat dermal inflammatory diseases such as eczema and psoriasis. This is attained by using the phytocannabinoid cannabidiol (CBD), which has demonstrated therapeutic value in numerous diseases while being non-psychoactive.

THE POWER OF CANNABIS-DERIVED OILS IN SKINCARE

HEALING PROPERTIES

Cannabinoids have rekindled interest in dermatology due to their inherent antiinflammatory, antinociceptive and antipruritic capacities. Interestingly, the biological activity

Did you know?

The anti-inflammatory characteristics of cannabinoids can aid in numerous skin diseases. Cannabinoids can establish anti-inflammatory activity by modulating cytokine production as well as T-cell responses and cell proliferation. This shows that cannabis is an ideal natural ingredient to treat diseases like psoriasis and acne, which are accompanied by inflammation.

The antipruritic capacity of cannabis seems to be the most promising as this is a symptom of numerous recurrent skin diseases such as psoriasis and allergic contact dermatitis. According to research this antipruritic effect of cannabis can be attributed to the presence of endocannabinoids like N-palmitoylethanolamide (PEA) and oleoylethanolamide (OEA). PEA and OEA may decrease xerosis, which provides an antipruritic effect. These endocannabinoids also stimulate the activation of the cannabinoid type 1 receptor instead of binding directly to cannabinoid receptors.

NAVIGATING FORMULATION HURDLES

The topical application of cannabinoids provides the advantage of bypassing firstpass metabolism. However, challenges during formulation can be anticipated since cannabinoids are highly lipophilic compounds. This lipophilicity can be an obstacle when aiming to cross the formidable barrier provided by the outermost skin layer. Cannabinoids are also unstable due to their susceptibility to degradation via autoxidation, light and elevated

CBD oil (extracted from cannabis leaves and without psychotropic effects) and hemp seed oil (extracted from seeds and comprising virtually no cannabinoids) stand out as potential skin care candidates. The benefits of cannabis in terms of dermal application can also be attained by incorporating hemp seed oil into topical formulations for its protective function.

The high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids and abundant amount of minerals and vitamins, specifically vitamin E, help to decrease dermal dryness and impede the natural ageing of the skin.

As knowledge of dermal cannabis-based products increases, it can be considered likely that the further development of topical, target designed skin care products will increase to effectively provide vegan-friendly and alternative treatments for dermal disorders. •

BioMedical Emporium –www.biomedicalemporium.com

Unlock youthful radiance

In the quest for eternal youth, the cosmetics industry constantly seeks innovative ingredients that promise to delay and reverse signs of ageing. Eterwell Youth, produced by DSM-Firmenich, stands at the forefront of this revolution.

Powered by the active ingredient Epilobium fleischeri leaf/ stem extract, a unique alpine species organically cultivated in ancient glacier moraine, Eterwell™ Youth sets a new benchmark in holistic healthy ageing.

The essence of this skincare technology is found in its core component, Epilobium fleischeri, standardised in flavonoids and recognised for its senolytic properties – clearing in vitro senescent cells by an impressive 52% at a low concentration of 0.03%.

Epilobium fleischeri leaf/stem extract is 100% natural, adhering to ISO16128 standards, and supports an innovative assay that visualises real-time apoptosis of senescent cells through holotomography microscopy.

KEY BENEFITS AND SCIENTIFIC RESULTS

The benefits of Eterwell Youth are profound and manifold, acting at the cellular level to foster holistic healthy ageing. By targeting cellular-level deterioration, it not only helps revert damage induced by ‘zombie cells’ but also significantly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Beyond its surface-level effects, Eterwell Youth aids in restoring and boosting collagen production ex vivo. Collagen is a critical component for maintaining skin’s structural integrity and youthful appearance.

Its efficacy also extends to enhancing skin’s physical properties – clinical studies have validated its role in increasing skin elasticity and smoothness in vivo. This dual-action capability, coupled with exceptional synergy with retinol boosters like TGF-b and retinol, translates into visibly rejuvenated, vibrant and healthy looking skin.

" The transformative results are compelling, reversing skin’s appearance by up to six years"

Test results show that Eterwell Youth at 3% significantly improves skin’s texture (smoothness) by 24% after only two weeks corresponding to a skin physiological age that looks two years younger and even six years younger after three months of use. See figures 1 and 2.

EMBRACING SUSTAINABILITY

It’s not only the efficacy of Eterwell Youth that sets it apart from other antiageing actives but also its commitment to sustainability. From the organic, traceable sourcing of the ingredient to its low environmental impact and fairtrade certification, it embodies holistic sustainability.

Available in South Africa from Chempure, Eterwell Youth epitomises cutting-edge skincare, harnessing the potency of Epilobium fleischeri leaf/stem extract to target ageing at the cellular level. •

Chempure – chempure.co.za DSM-Firmenich – www.dsm.com/personal-care

Figure 2: Improvement is shown in the increase of vertical lines and the depth of those crossing the horizontal ones. More lines indicate more structured skin, which is lost with ageing. Eterwell Youth at 3% significantly reduces crows feet wrinkles after three months (17% volume and 11% depth).

Figure 1: A 58 year-old volunteer

Crafting effective styling solutions for every curl

The beauty of afro-textured hair is unmistakable, characterised by its distinctive growth pattern with U or C-shaped follicles producing hair strands in a spiral shape. Alilali Raliphada of Croda South Africa explores key aspects for brands to consider when formulating effective styling products for Afro-textured hair.

Throughout history, hairstyles have served as symbolic expression of heritage and social status across diverse African cultures. From the Rastafarian movement of the 1930s to the natural hair movement of today, individuals with afro-textured hair have continuously used their hair as a means of self-expression and identity.

" Brands can actively address the challenges of managing Afrotextured hair by educating consumers"

Yet managing afro-textured hair is not without its challenges. A 2019 South African study entitled ‘Narratives of Black Women on Hair in the Workplace’ shed light on the shared experiences and challenges faced by participants when it comes to styling their hair. The study revealed striking similarities in the narratives of Black women, with many expressing feelings of frustration and difficulty when attempting to style their hair. Terms such as ‘difficult’, ‘troublesome’, ‘hard to comb’ and ‘unmanageable’ were commonly used to describe their hair styling experiences.1

These findings emphasise the need for further research to understand Afro-textured hair and its needs. They also highlight an opportunity for brands to develop innovative products tailored to these needs, aiming to ease styling frustrations and promote the celebration of textured hair.

Mintel predicts that consumers will continue to show an interest in the ingredients in their hair products and brands are encouraged to develop highperforming products. 2 Consumers are also looking for multifunctional and results-driven products, with themes of personalisation and skinification driving the hair care market. 2

THE HOLISTIC APPROACH

The unique spiral curl pattern of afrotextured hair results in tightly coiled strands that can easily intertwine and form knots and tangles.

This hair structure can also hinder the natural flow of sebum along the hair shaft, leading to scalp irritation and inflammation. It is important to keep these characteristics in mind when formulating for this hair type. In styling products, the multifunctionality theme is inspiring formulators to use ingredients that focus on the holistic health of the hair.

Croda’s Apiscalp is a great option as the active ingredient balances the scalp microbiome. Sensaluxe DF, also from Croda, is a conditioning agent that provides surface smoothing and softening effects on dry and wet hair. Both ingredients will help ensure that consumers do not compromise the health of their hair when styling it.

PROTECT AND REPAIR

The unique structure of Afro-textured hair influences the distribution of keratin along the fibre, resulting in an unequal thickness of the hair cuticle and a smaller diameter compared to other hair types. This makes it prone to breakage and dryness. Certain styling practices, like heat styling and chemical treatments, can damage the hair cuticles causing friction between strands to further exacerbate the vulnerability in the hair shaft.

Incorporating ingredients in styling products which not only protect but also repair the hair shaft will allow consumers to experiment with a silk press or to change up their colour while preserving the integrity of their hair. Ingredients from Croda such as Keravis NSP, a hydrolysed protein which penetrates the hair cortex and builds strength from within, and Mirustyle X-HP, which reduces the damaging effects of thermal styling tools, can deliver this effect.

STYLING AND MAINTENANCE

Because Afro-textured hair is extremely versatile, consumers require products that are just as versatile.

These products should provide the benefits to enhance their beautiful curls with a twist out, hold their hair in place in a sleek bun or keep the frizz

away when rocking a protective style like box braids.

Croda’s Mirustyle CP, Mirustyle MFP and Volarest FL are styling polymers that provide curl definition, frizz control and curl retention. Formulating with styling polymers that provide long-lasting effects and prolong the longevity of a

style gives brands the scope to introduce products with new textures that stand out on shelf.

In addition to developing effective formulations, brands can actively address the challenges of managing Afro-textured hair by educating consumers on the most suitable hair care practices for their hair type.

Partnering with a supplier that prioritises inclusivity and invests in research to develop science-backed solutions will give brands a distinct market advantage. At Croda, we specialise in developing researchbacked ingredients while providing a global network of hair care experts that specialise in claim substantiation. By collaborating with Croda, brands can position themselves as leaders in creating effective hair care products, which cater to diverse needs. •

REFERENCES:

1. Knight, S.M.F. and Long, W., 2019. Narratives of Black Women on Hair in the Workplace. Psychology in Society, (58), pp.27-49.

2. The Future of Haircare, Styling & Colour: 2023

Croda – www.crodabeauty.com

Outstanding protection from heat damage

Improves smoothness of hair surface

Reduces friction for easier combing

Protects against loss of hair strength

Excellent style hold properties

Impressive sensory benefits

Suitable for clear systems

Low tack for superior hand feel and ease of styling

Formulation solutions to unlock hair health

To meet the hair care needs of African consumers, Chempure offers effective ingredients and tailored formulations. This article highlights several solutions from the supplier.

As the second largest segment in personal care, hair care commands significant attention, with Mintel analysts noting hair loss treatments, conditioners scalp care and treatments as the fastest-growing categories.

This growth is propelled by a shift towards premium products, emphasising active ingredients and the ‘skinification’ of hair. Notably, African consumers are embracing their natural hair, yet maintaining its health presents unique challenges, from managing curls to combating breakage and dandruff. Tailored formulations are crucial for ethnic/textured hair to achieve optimal results.

COMBAT HAIR LOSS

Hair loss is commonly attributed to stress, colouring or dyeing hair, intensive treatments like relaxers, and the use of ineffective products.

Alpaflor® Alp-Sebum CB (organic plant extract) has powerful sebum reduction capabilities and helps prevent hair loss.

Argan oil (organic cold extracted), Colhibin CB (natural plant peptide) and Life’s GLA™ 10 n-6 Oil (biodegradable plant extract) provide conditioning properties, offering anti-frizz, antibreakage and split end reduction benefits.

NURTURE THE SCALP

Scalp care is set to be the most popular self-care trend. Stress and depression are considered as the main causes of scalp issues, followed by an unhealthy diet. With itchy scalp

being the most common symptom of scalp issues, consumer interest is growing in products that moisturise and soothe the scalp.

" Tailored formulations are crucial for ethnic/ textured hair to achieve optimal results"

Pentavitin® (natural, biodegradable and plant based) moisturises a dry scalp by creating a strong magnetic-like scalp barrier, reducing flaking and sebum production while balancing the scalp microbiome.

TACKLE GREYING HAIR

A 2020 survey revealed that people are interested in products to prevent/reverse greying hair. These products must also offer shine, damage repair and moisturising benefits while protecting from the elements.

Chempure offers Alpaflor® Edelweis CB (organic plant extract), which helps prevent hair loss, reduces the appearance of greying hair and has anti-ageing properties. It also offers BeauPlex® VH 13, which is a blend of vitamins that helps prevent hair loss, reduces greying hair, improves the scalp barrier and increases moisturisation. •

Chempure – www.chempure.co.za

CTFA member breakfast observes industry milestones

To celebrate the regulatory milestones of the South African cosmetics industry, CTFA hosted a member breakfast at the Radisson Blu hotel on the 1 March.

The objective of the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA) event was to thank members for their support over the years, review regulatory milestones in the past financial year and explore certain trends affecting the industry in 2024.

The relaxed and informative morning gave member companies the opportunity to network and learn more about the impact of AI on the cosmetics industry from special guest presenter, Callan Abrahams of Data Led Insights.

MEMBER SUPPORT IS KEY

CTFA is fortunate to have the support of dedicated individuals from various member companies. These individuals are not only experts in their field, but also willing to give of their time voluntarily by taking part in various CTFA committees.

The committees include the overarching technical committee (TCCOM), where all regulatory and technical industry related topics are discussed and various sub-committees,

Did you know?

The South African cosmetics and personal care industry is vibrant and dynamic, consisting of an interesting mix of multinational companies, local brand owners and small entrepreneurial businesses.

where further in-depth discussions are held when required.

CTFA’s sub committees include:

• cosmetic regulations

• advertising

• sun care

• hair care

• microbiome.

The various experts were acknowledged at the member breakfast for their contribution and loyalty to the industry.

SHAPING THE INDUSTRY’S FUTURE

CTFA’s social responsibility arm, Look Good Feel Better (LGFB) shared insight into its ethos and commitment to making a difference in the lives of cancer patients.

"CTFA is fortunate to have the support of dedicated individuals from various member companies"

LGFB runs a programme throughout South Africa helping cancer patients, undergoing active treatment, in a practical and positive way. The programme includes makeup and skincare workshops hosted using beauty products sponsored by LGFB members with tutorials provided by LGFB volunteers. These workshops

are a fantastic icebreaker for cancer patients, and they provide a fun activity for the attendees to enjoy. In a recent LGFB newsletter, national programme director Yvette Powell said “what is most significant is the connections that are made during these sessions and the emotional support provided to women and men who attend. These workshops are so much more than just a patient self-care event”.

In closing, Adelia Pimentel, CTFA’s executive director expressed a heartfelt thank you to the association’s incredible members for making the breakfast a great success.

“Together, we're shaping the future of the cosmetics industry,” Adelia said. •

PROMOTING A FLOURISHING INDUSTRY

CTFA was established in 1994 and is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year.

Since inception, the purpose of the CTFA has been to guide members on the South African Regulatory Codes of Practice and Standards and to ensure that the local cosmetics industry flourishes.

The association works with the cosmetics industry sector, the South African Bureau of Standards, National Department of Health, Department of Trade, Industry and Competition, and international accredited bodies to ensure alignment for a responsible industry in South Africa.

It is regarded by government, South Africans and international stakeholders alike as a credible voice that is committed to maintaining the high quality and safety of cosmetic products as well as a responsible South African cosmetics industry.

CTFA – ctfa.co.za

Adelia Pimentel, CTFA’s executive director, discussing the industry’s regulatory milestones with attendees

The dedicated individuals from various member companies who give of their time voluntarily by taking part in various CTFA committees

Callan Abrahams of Data Led Insights explored the intersection of AI in the cosmetics industry

Interactive Formulation Day a great success

As part of Coschem’s ongoing commitment to fostering professional growth and development within the personal care industry, the society hosted its second Formulation Day on 21 February.

This unique event, which focused on education and networking, brought together members for a morning of exploration and learning, and featured the expertise of 11 leading raw material suppliers.

The practical Formulation Day event required a lab space to ensure its success, so Evonik kindly sponsored the use of its personal care laboratory, located in Midrand, Gauteng.

The morning buzzed with formulators and participants rotating through 11 stations. The suppliers showcased various formulations, and supplied equipment, raw materials and packaging to complete the showcase. They also did well to manage the product development phase successfully within a limited time frame.

DAY FILLED WITH GREAT EXPERIENCES

A total of 30 people attended the event. They engaged in interactive sessions with industry experts who guided them through the fundamentals of formulating a personal care product. This hands-on experience provided valuable insights and practical knowledge to the attendees.

They also got an opportunity to connect with individuals from various sectors of the industry. It was an excellent occasion to expand networks, share experiences, and learn from peers.

Attendees took advantage of the strong presence of suppliers, who were ready to assist them and answer any questions they had on how to refine their formulating skills.

The rotating sessions and being able to explore different aspects of formulating ensured a comprehensive learning experience for all while catering to various interests within the scientific community that Coschem serves.

Look out for more information on upcoming formulation days, as similar events are planned for Cape Town in August 2024 and KwaZuluNatal in August 2025. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

THE FOLLOWING PRODUCTS WERE FORMULATED ONSITE:

• Clear Conditioner by AECI Specialty Chemicals

• Waterless Body Wash by Azelis South Africa

Jamaican Black Castor Oil Shampoo by Carst & Walker

• Smooth Balm C by Chempure

• Vegan Bum Cream by Cirebelle

• Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 by Croda South Africa

• Hair Mask Base by IMCD South Africa

• Naturally Mild Micellar Water by Orchem

• Eye Contour Cream by Protea Chemicals

• Cotton Candy Cream by The Care Co.

• Body Lotion by Vantage South Africa.

HIGHLIGHTS FROM COSCHEM’S RECENT FORMULATION DAY HOSTED IN GAUTENG

"

The rotating sessions and being able to explore different aspects of formulating ensured a comprehensive learning experience"

Shining a light on the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry in Africa

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