BEAUTY INNOVATIONS Figure 2: High resolution photographs taken of a volunteer before (Day 0) and after (Day 30) the treatment
advanced botanical ingredient reconfirms the role of effective desquamation and epidermal renewal to achieve a radiant complexion. This fungi-derived enzyme mimics the activity profile of the endogenous protease cathepsin D and
For skin redness, reactivity to Balsam of Peru, a known topical irritant, was determined before and after product
the face and a placebo cream on the other half. Evaluation of skin luminance (L*) was
use. Results showed the active ingredient
performed using a spectrophotometer. In
produced little irritation compared to a
Figure 1, L* represents relative brightness
lower concentration of lactic acid.
of the skin. This was also used to calculate
To determine damage to barrier
individual typological angle (ITA⁰) values,
function, changes in the integrity of the
which show the degree of pigmentation.
skin barrier were assessed by measuring
The results revealed an increase in L* and
transepidermal water loss (TEWL) with
ITA⁰ – data associated with a brighter and
an evaporimeter. The application of
less pigmented skin.
increasing concentrations of Actizyme
High resolution images of volunteers also
advanced botanical ingredient resulted
showed changes in skin complexion (see
in minimal changes in TEWL compared to
Figure 2). A clearer skin complexion was
lactic acid.
unanimously perceived by volunteers. All of the subjects (100%) assigned the top
BOOSTING SKIN CLARITY
two scores (agree and strongly agree) to
A panel of 21 Indian volunteers (aged
the affirmations ‘visible lightening effect on
between 19 and 46) with skin phototype
skin’ and ‘face appeared more luminous’
IV applied a cream containing two
in a self-evaluation questionnaire.
percent Actizyme GL advanced botanical ingredient twice a day for 30 days on half
With its mechanism of action and efficacy proven in vivo, Actizyme
offers an effective method of exfoliation when applied with an acidic buffer, increasing the cell renewal rate in vivo. Yet the effect is mild, as it produces notably lower levels of sensitivity and barrier disruption compared to AHAs. After 30 days of product application, augmented clarity of facial skin was measured as increases in L* and ITA⁰.• REFERENCES: 1. S chmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 19(6):296-302, 2006. 2. C aubet C, Jonca N, Brattsand M, Guerrin M, et al. Degradation of corneodesmosome proteins by two serine proteases of the kallikrein family, SCTE/KLK5/hK5 and SCCE/ KLK7/hK7. J. Invest. Dermatol. 122(5): 1235-1244 (2004).
Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2020 |
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