Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q1 2019

AFRICA

Quarter 1 2019 | Volume 4 | Number 1

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za

Impressive technologies for natural hair care

Tablet coating problems and their solutions

INGREDIENTS that strike a balance between sustainability and innovation

H&R Africa

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Quarter 1 2019 | Volume 4 | Number 1

AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS 6 NEWS

Bayer intensifies its fight against malaria

Iberchem expands its presence in Africa

CJP and Seppic celebrate their synergies

12 INGREDIENTS

Tips to innovate for Millennial consumers

A fresh perspective on antiperspirant actives

16 HAIR CARE

How to strengthen hair with protein ingredients

Formulations to enhance natural, textured hair

Fight the flakes with Ichtyol from Savannah

Go natural with vegan alternatives

10

Trusted, reliable and sustainable for Africa and the Middle East

24 PHARMA FOCUS:

OSD FORMS

Glatt helps solve challenges in tablet coating

26 INDUSTRY TALK

Africa’s poorest nations succeed in fighting disease

28 COLOUR COSMETICS

Functional fillers to boost makeup formulations

30 PACKAGING

Sidel installs complete end of line solution at Unilever Dubai

How to formulate for Afrilennials

12

African health-tech startup labelled ‘innovative’

Proteins – hero ingredients to replenish hair

8

16

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

3

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

THE TEAM

Are your solutions real problem solvers?

W

e’re all working hard to fulfil

New developments in hair care – one of

a need through our own

the biggest categories driving the inclusivity

businesses. In the cosmetics

movement – are showcased on page

industry there’s been a surge

16. Croda reveals the results of extensive

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Naresh Budraj ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za

in the demand for artisanal, sustainable,

protein analysis on relaxed African hair to

locally made, natural products in all

determine the efficacy of protein based

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

consumer categories as well as the need to

products in replenishing damaged hair;

INTERNATIONAL SALES

be Instagrammable at all times.

Lubrizol ramps up its presence in the African

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

Pharmaceuticals, on the other hand,

market to capitalise on the natural hair care

are fundamental in the global control and

movement, and Savannah Fine Chemicals

elimination of disease.

introduces a pharma grade ingredient

While the end user’s needs associated with these two industries are poles apart, their workings are highly alike. There are no

proven to treat dandruff and the associated symptoms.

In our pharma focus on page 24,

false promises; the products have to work.

European systems and solutions provider,

Pharma and cosmetics products are backed

Glatt helps manufacturers solve their

by authenticity with accessibility being a key

tablet coating problems. Whether its

driver in both industries.

twinning, capping, colour variation

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION

challenges or friability, solutions to these

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

medicine are a global problem. These

issues are tabulated for ease of reference

PUBLISHING TEAM

include insufficient infrastructure, a lack

for our readers.

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

Challenges hindering access to

of skills and poorer economies in many

We also look at which African countries

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za

African countries, not to mention the

are winning the war against neglected

legalities surrounding arduous patent

tropical diseases (NTDs). New data from

agreements. In the cosmetics industry,

Uniting to Combat NTDs – a collective of

access to beauty and personal care

invested, interested and dedicated partners

products is thriving due to the inclusivity

– reveals how affluent African countries like

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

movement. Brands are letting consumers

South Africa and Equatorial Guinea are far

define what beauty looks like and are

behind lower income bracket countries such

creating invested audiences by producing

as Malawi and Togo, which both reached 75

products that solve real problems.

percent of the average

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

The concept of solving these problems

target. Turn to page

forms the basis of this edition of P C Africa.

26 now for this

In our ingredients feature we look at how

interesting read.

sustainability has become a key driver of

Production Controller: Pam Moodley Art Director: David Kyslinger

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd. MANAGEMENT TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

raw materials and cosmetics technologies,

I hope you enjoy

with more and more brands wanting to

this edition!

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

deliver on their promise by putting proven

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

effective, clean label and safe products

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

on the market. Turn to page 12 now to read

HEAD OF HR: Camillah West

about Ashland’s sustainable ingredients and ChemSystems’ safe and effective antiperspirant actives.

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX 06 Agencies SA.................................................17........................www.o6southafrica.com Botanichem......................................................22.......................www.botanichem.co.za Brenntag............................................................IBC......................www.brenntag.com ChemSystems ..................................................14........................www.chemsystems.co.za Crest Chemicals ..............................................18........................www.crestchem.co.za Croda SA...........................................................15........................www.crodapersonalcare.com Dr. Lohmann Gmbh.........................................7..........................www.lohmann-chemikalien.de Glatt GmbH.......................................................25.......................www.glatt.com H&R Africa.........................................................OFC....................www.hur.com IMCD SA ............................................................IFC......................www.imcdsa.co.za Orkila.................................................................OBC....................www.orkila.com Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................21........................www.savannah.co.za Sensient Technologies South Africa...............23.......................www.sensient.com

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 www.newmedia.co.za

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

Copyright: all rights reserved.

4

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

Launched a new product in 2018/19

Make a

Statement about it

2019

New Product Competition ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t N a t a l i e D a S i l v a : N a t a l i e . D a S i l v a @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | +2 7 ( 0 )11 87 7 6 2 81

NEWS

BASF advances market specific solutions for Nigeria IN FEBRUARY, BASF’S Care Creations officially

we can provide onsite technical expertise

opened its new application technology

and market insights. We can also support

laboratory for personal care in Lagos, Nigeria.

the development of tailor-made products for

With the establishment of on the ground

the specific needs of African hair and skin,’

competence in application and formulation

says Dirk Mampe, VP business management,

technology, BASF commissioned its technical

personal care solutions Europe.

service for African hair and skin care applications throughout sub-Saharan Africa.

Dr Jacqueline Appelgate

Hair, skin and consumers’ personal care regimens vary widely across regions,

network of expertise in the region, in marketing

of the art application lab in Nigeria is designed

and sales.

to offer formulation support. Based on BASF’s

NEW ANTI-MALARIA TOOL FROM BAYER

The company has also strengthened its

‘Customised solutions meeting the specific

necessitating tailored products. The new state

deep global expertise in hair and skin care

WITH NEARLY HALF of the world’s population at risk of contracting

requirements of consumers in different

performance testing, the company will also

malaria, primarily in sub Saharan Africa, stepping up the fight against

markets are key for business growth. With our

expand and develop consumer and market

the disease is a pressing challenge. Rising to the challenge, Bayer has

broadened presence and the investment in

relevant claim support. The laboratory is part

launched a new indoor residual spray (IRS), Fludora Fusion, set to make

a new application lab in sub-Saharan Africa,

of BASF’s new regional headquarter for West

great strides in the fight against malaria.

Africa, which was commissioned

malaria were reported in 2017, up from 217 million in 2016. In southern

As one of the fastest-growing

Africa alone, during 2018, more than 16 000 cases resulting in 110

beauty markets in sub-Saharan

deaths were reported by the end of October. This is more than the

Africa, Nigeria is well-suited as a

average number of cases over the 10 year period between 2007 and

regional hub for BASF’s personal

2016, which was estimated at 7 600 cases per year.

care business.

‘The expansion of BASF’s

‘Insecticide resistance remains one of the biggest threats to eradicating malaria largely because of our reliance on a limited number

operations in West Africa,

of effective insecticides in vector control interventions against malaria

including the opening of the

carrying mosquitos. In the context of this urgent need for new modes of

personal care application lab,

action in malaria vector control, Fludora Fusion represents a major step

clearly demonstrates BASF’s

in eradicating malaria,’ says Dr Jacqueline Appelgate, head of global

commitment to Nigeria and

vegetable seeds & environmental science at Bayer.

the confidence we have in the

The new laboratory in Nigeria forms part of BASF’s global application technology network in 21 countries

According to the World Health Organization, 219 million cases of

in Lagos, in October 2018.

It is also of great concern that malaria prevalence has expanded

region,’ adds Jean Marc Ricca,

with low or very low malaria transmission appearing in some areas

MD for BASF West Africa. •

previously regarded as malaria-free, particularly in South Africa.

Bayer’s field trials, in an unprecedented 16 African countries, has proven Fludora Fusion is effective against more than a dozen

NALLIAN LAUNCHES

GLOBAL PHARMA TRACKER AT THE IATA World Cargo

prevent costly temperature

Symposium in Singapore, data

excursions, which are causing vast

sharing specialist Nallian launched

product losses on an annual basis.

the Global Pharma Tracker. This

The global pharma air cargo

is said to be is the world’s first

supply chain involves many

data sharing platform for end to

partners: shippers, carriers, ground

end tracking and monitoring of

handlers, forwarders, cold chain

temperature controlled

service providers and airport

pharma shipments.

authorities. In this fragmented

Providing unparalleled levels

supply chain, detecting excursions

resistant strains of mosquitos. The results also show it remains effective for up to 12 months after application. ‘We know that investing in the development of malaria fighting tools will only be successful if accessible to those in need. This is why Bayer is committed to providing public health programmes with Fludora Fusion. This will make a healthier, better life more accessible to everyone,’ explains Dr Appelgate.

Bayer has been a mainstay in global malaria prevention strategy for over 60 years through continued investments in effective vector control solutions. Dr Appelgate concludes: ‘We’re excited by the potential of Fludora Fusion to help prevent new malaria infections. It is a major milestone in our pursuit of a malaria-free future.’ •

of transparency and visibility, it

and defining why and where they

empowers the user to efficiently

happened is a complex, time

single, real-time view. This gives all stakeholders access to

detect, act upon and ultimately

consuming and manual process.

an enhanced data stream, providing valuable insights into

The Global Pharma

It empowers users to answer questions efficiently and

integrates logistics,

unequivocally, such as ‘where did the excursion happen’

temperature and

and ‘what caused it’.

quality data from

6

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

their cargo flows and end to end visibility across the network.

Tracker Platform

Ultimately, historical performance analysis will allow users

this fragmented

to adopt a pro-active approach to preventing excursions

supply chain into a

from occurring in future. •

NEWS

Iberchem develops its presence in Africa

GERRESHEIMER OFFERS IRRADIATION OF DROPPER BOTTLES

IN LINE WITH its 2020 expansion

IN FEBRUARY, AT Pharmapack, in Paris, France, Gerresheimer

plan, fragrance manufacturer

unveiled new packaging services for ophthalmology and

Iberchem is expanding its footprint

rhinology products. The company has teamed up with select

in emerging markets, including

certified partners to add surface finishing of plastic dropper

Africa. Its new commercial office

Iberchem’s commercial team in South Africa: Beverley Gardner, Margaret Reynolds (back) and Mishkah Moyce

in South Africa is set to boost the company’s already strong presence in the country while catapulting its expansion in east and west Africa.

Iberchem now counts on

Before joining Iberchem, Gardner was

bottles to its irradiation services.

‘We want to make life easier for our customers when it comes to procuring their dropper bottles, by treating our products with gamma radiation using select recognised and certified partners,’ says Niels Düring, global executive VP of plastic packaging.

The chosen partner companies all have ISO 11137, 11737

20 facilities, including eight production

employed at Symrise South Africa where she

and 13004 certifications. Gerresheimer will be responsible

plants, strategically located across the

worked in various roles such as managing

for handling this process from start to finish. The inspection

world, as well as a commercial presence

sales for sub-Saharan Africa for the

process will also see Gerresheimer physically and chemically

in over 120 countries. Understanding the

cosmetics, fragrance and aroma-molecules

testing product characteristics after irradiation. Ultimately, it will

added advantage and flexibility of having

divisions. Her zealous curiosity of people and

a dedicated team for sub-Saharan Africa,

regulate the validation and revalidation of the entire process,

places has enabled Gardner to forge unique

in November 2018, Iberchem appointed

connections throughout Africa. This, coupled

helping reduce costs for its customers.

Beverley Gardner as head of sales for its

with Iberchem’s well established success of

new office in South Africa. Supported by

sales in emerging markets, will enhance the

the marketing, technical and scientific

multinational’s footprint in Africa.

resources and capabilities of the company, Gardner will establish Iberchem’s sub-

In 2017, Iberchem opened a new office in Ghana and acquired the South African

The company’s range of packaging for ophthalmology and rhinology products includes bottles and dropper inserts made from low density polyethylene (LDPE), with pump systems to match. Irradiation also ensures the products are germ free.

As a specialist in plastic packaging for the pharma industry,

Saharan operations with Margaret Reynolds

company, Versachem. The acquisition is an

the company offers a wide range of solutions for solid, liquid and

and Mishkah Moyce, who both have

exciting venture that now allows Iberchem

ophthalmological products. All of Gerresheimer’s primary pharma

extensive experience in the personal care

access to key customers and brands across

packaging is produced in ISO class 7 and class 8 cleanrooms at

and fragrances industries.

the continent. •

its plants in Vaerloese, Denmark and Bolesławiec, Poland.•

Zinc for Health and Wellness Stay healthy and well with Zinc ◆ Improves structure of hair, skin and nails ◆ Strengthens immune system ◆ Supports optimal growth of children ◆ Anti-bacterial

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

7

NEWS

CJP AND SEPPIC CELEBRATE THEIR SYNERGIES THE PERSONAL CARE industry is changing.

which bring performance and

It’s becoming increasingly complex and

technical sophistication to

requires suppliers to be more agile than

formulations while limiting their

ever before to meet brand owners and

environmental impact. Cosmetics

manufacturers shifting needs.

ingredients are the biggest

CJP Chemicals (CJP) is investing in its

contributor to Seppic’s revenue.

capabilities in line with the requirements of

As a result, the company has

the market. The company is also solidifying

made substantial investments in its

relationships with its principals, including

associated capabilities with new

Seppic. Prized for its proximity and reliability,

factories, facility expansions and key

Seppic designs and markets a wide range

acquisitions, including Serdex and

of speciality ingredients for health and

Biotech Marine.’

beauty. The French company is present in

Vijay Bahadur, Seppic’s beauty

100 countries through its subsidiaries and

care business unit zone manager

network of distributors, including CJP.

for the MEA region, adds: ‘Seppic

CJP has represented Seppic throughout

offers a wide range of innovation

Vijay Bahadur, Janine Fitzpatrick; product manager at CJP Chemicals, and Ashok Bhatt

southern Africa for a number of years,

and effective active ingredients

making its innovative ingredients and

and technologies for the African

formulation technologies available to

market, to address, for example,

activity of the active ingredient has been

manufacturers throughout the region. The

pigmentation or even tone skin care needs

tested on Ethnic skins.’

company’s newly established speciality

and Ethnic hair care needs. Sepiwhite

ingredients division will bring a renewed

MSH is a super effective molecule for skin

Xylishine, a natural hair moisturiser that

focus and stronger presence in the market

brightening and even tone applications.

enhances shine and curl definition, as well

for its principals, including Seppic.

Through a novel and demonstrated mode

as EmoSmart V21, an environmentally friendly

of action, the active ingredient lights up

emollient, which is proven to be as good as

the AMEI region, says: ‘Seppic creates

the complexion while limiting pigmentation

Dimethicone in improving the manageability

inspirational ingredients for cosmetics

related concerns. The effective lightening

and appearance of textured or curly hair. •

Ashok Bhatt, Seppic’s director for

For Ethnic hair care, Seppic offers

African health-tech startup labelled ‘innovative’ TALAMUS HEALTH, AN africa focused

can be scaled to deliver across industry

health-tech business, has been included on

segments and in multiple geographies are

fast company’s prestigious annual list of the

vital to getting ahead of the challenge.

world’s most innovative companies (mic) for

Already in Nigeria, Ghana and South Africa,

2019. The list honours businesses making a

we expect to launch in zimbabwe and

profound impact on industry and society,

Mozambique in 2019.’

showcasing a variety of ways to thrive in

services and their integration in financial

on this year’s mic 50 list appear on it for the

systems in Africa have created an

first time; the full mic list is available online at

opportunity to deliver healthcare services in

www.Fastcompany.Com/mic.

new ways, which Talamus is leveraging. The

Founder of Talamus Health, Dr Muri

8

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

The rapid growth of telecommunications

today’s volatile world. Half of the companies

Talamus Mobile Platform and marketplace

Raifu: ‘being recognised by Fast Company

provides integration options for pharmacies,

is a great endorsement of our innovative

laboratories, doctors, clinics, insurance

approach to solving healthcare challenges

companies and government agencies,

on the continent. This follows recognition

while offering patients more control over the

received from the UN ITU as the “most

movement and privacy of their health data.

scalable solution” in the SMA category, in

Talamus’ network covers over 100 clinics

its 2018 global awards. A combination of

and hospitals, 710 pharmacy outlets and 400

innovation and scalability is at the heart

laboratory outlets, as well as connections to

of our value proposition. Although Africa’s

insurance companies. Each connection is

population is the fastest growing in the world,

integrated with or use the Talamus mobile

its healthcare infrastructure is amongst the

application, enabling comprehensive real-

weakest. Innovative technical solutions that

time access to records and notes. •

DIARY

WHAT'S ON IN April

2019

in-cosmetics Global 2 to 4 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global

Pharmintech Exhibition 2019 10 to 12 April Bologna, Italy

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COMPANY FOCUS

Trusted, reliable and sustainable for Africa and the Middle East

H&R Africa prides itself on being a specialist manufacturer and marketer of application-based mineral oils, various waxes and petroleum jellies. Having successfully worked with various global organisations, major regional businesses and owner-operated companies, H&R has been active in shaping the future direction of various industries aligned with its stakeholders’ business and environmental sustainability pursuits.

A

lthough business and

which are pre-requisites for pharmaceutical

environmental sustainability

products and add value to personal care,

arguments continue, H&R

cosmetics and other associated industries.

Africa has developed some

H&R Africa views technology

exciting solutions by availing high-

and innovation as a driving force

need for a suitable

performance, renewable bio-based

of the sustainability of its business.

quality standard,

raw materials for various industries. This

The company constantly upgrades

relevant price point and

is to ensure the company continues its

its manufacturing technologies

to overcome supply

work with stakeholders on business and

and innovation processes, which

chain challenges.

environmental sustainability pursuits.

recently resulted in the development

This range is perfectly

of the Tudamelt M range variety of

suited for personal care,

specialty microwaxes.

candle and packaging

As a proud African business, H&R Africa is excited to be a Black Economic Empowerment compliant organisation

The Tudamelt M range was

in South Africa. The company views this

developed in response to Africa’s

programme as necessary in redressing the previously oppressive South African economic landscape.

Previously known as H&R South Africa Sales, the company has rebranded to H&R Africa to set a clear identity and focus on growing its business activities in Africa, as well as the Middle East. The H&R Africa brand, represents, in part, a business model centred on market-specific, application-based manufacturing and

H&R VIEWS TECHNOLOGY AND INNOVATION AS A DRIVING FORCE OF THE SUSTAINABILITY OF ITS BUSINESS

H&R Africa to consistently fulfil customers’ expectations and become a value-adding, reliable supplier to stakeholders.

TECHNOVATIVE BRANDS H&R Africa’s registered brand names represent more than just the applicationbased products, they also represent the company’s technical astuteness, optimised supply chain and world-class customer service. These three pillars enable customers to attain valuable competitive advantages in their respective industries.

The company’s branded mineral oils, various waxes and petroleum jellies conform to the European, British and American Pharmacopoeias standards, The Pionier range of petroleum jellies

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

functional and aesthetic properties are required.

marketing. This business model enables

10

applications, where specific

SPECIALITY BUSINESS UNIT Part of H&R Africa’s innovative ways of doing business was branching into the commercial services space, which entails offering supply chain solutions to customers for their respective commodity purchases. What is unique about H&R Africa’s approach commodity trading is the types of contracts held with principal

COMPANY FOCUS

The H&R Africa team based at Mobeni, South Africa

The Middle East has proved to be a greenfield market for H&R Africa. While it has not had any real activity in the region, it has freedom to be as innovative as it like, which presents a unique opportunity for H&R to make a disruptive market entrance.

DRIVEN TO SUCCEED With the global H&R group celebrating 100 years in business this year, H&R Africa will continue to leverage

DID YOU KNOW?

H&R Group’s 10 decades of petrochemicals’

within in the industry linked to steady,

experience to On 16 December 2019, H&R Africa deliver reliable and will join H&R Group in celebrating sustainable solutions.

Looking at the 100 years of industry-shaping German These values have company’s growth technology. It’s only fitting that H&R Africa takes this technology to Africa a long tradition, in Africa, Nigeria has and the Middle East, shaping which will continue been an interesting TechnoVation for the next extensively into the market for H&R Africa.

100 years. future. Building up to Although highly demanding

sustainable supply and customer

and complex, there are exciting

the 100 year celebration,

service. Customers trust H&R Africa

opportunities there. With Nigeria

2019 is already proving to be a

to be consistent in the supply and

being the biggest economy in Africa, it

successful year for H&R Africa. Its Mobeni

distribution of the internationally

has been a natural initial thrust for the

site is earmarked to become the main

manufactured performance

company’s FDI pursuits. As such, H&R

production hub for the business and

chemicals. To date, the successes

Africa has put ‘boots on the ground’ by

presents the company with an opportunity

of the speciality business unit have

appointing a business manager in Nigeria,

to install new technologies and enhance

been mainly in the dispersants and

who looks after the west Africa region.

its production capabilities and capacities

brighteners applications, within the

In the east, the company has been

to serve as H&R Africa’s headquarters. Full

very active in Kenya and Tanzania, which

development of the site is expected to be

are important hubs for accessing the rest

completed during 2022.

The H&R Africa team based in Durban, South Africa

manufacturers, its field technical support, storage capabilities and the company’s world-renowned customer service.

H&R Africa’s speciality business unit was borne out of challenges

home care industry.

BOOTS ON THE GROUND

of east African market. The principle of

H&R Africa’s sidings are strategically

placing ‘boots on the ground’ is being

will continue to successfully pursue its

located in Durban, in close proximity to

appraised and will likely take place within

strategy of international expansion based

Africa’s busiest seaport. This location is

the short term.

on flexible manufacturing units, in order to

ideal for inbound and outbound supply

The southern and central African

chain optimisation, which helps the

regions are H&R Africa’s strong bases. By

company to maintain its reputation as

maintaining these markets, it has seen

a reliable supplier for domestic and

exciting organic growth with its long

international stakeholders.

term stakeholders.

H&R Africa, together with the H&R Group,

take advantage of growth opportunities in Africa and the Middle East. •

H&R Africa – sasales@hur.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

11

INGREDIENTS

How to formulate for

Afrilennials

Millennials believe they can shape a kinder, friendlier world where sustainability is the norm. When formulating for Afrilennials, bear in mind they thrive on authenticity, individuality and unforgettable experiences – just like Millennials. IMCD South Africa, together with Ashland and Millchem, hosted a seminar in February to inspire formulators to take new product development to the next level.

T

he all day

event, which took

Brands looking to make an impact in

Ashland’s consumer insights reveal a

place at The Roof venue in Infinity

the African hair care space should offer

number of interesting trends driving the

Business Park, Johannesburg, South

solutions that solve detangling challenges,

global hair care category. Consumers

Africa, featured IMCD’s Sustainable

reduce the time African women need to

want products tailored for their particular

Beauty Box, packed with cause driven hair

spend on their hair, aid moisture retention,

hair type or their own styling rituals. They

and skin care emulsions and actives, to

prevent breakage and enhance styling.

seek personalised products and services,

inspire South Africa’s leading formulators to design innovative products for Afrilennials.

‘Actives need to do more than sell a

desire transparency from brands and

promise,’ Mafupa commented. This is

scrutinise ingredient lists and claims. Hair

because African women want hair care

care products that allow consumers to

of excellent speakers. Evenes Ruth Mafupa

products that are effective and live up to

express themselves, feature cleaner labels

of the Natural Sisters hair care blog had

what they promise.

and underpin ease of use, help consumers

The programme also featured a series

guests captivated with her informative

make more efficient product choices.

presentation on African hair care trends.

TRACKING THE TRENDS

According to Mafupa, 69 percent of

David Popplewell, Ashland’s global

products to hair types as well as provide

African women use scalp treatments to

marketing manager for hair care, was in

guidance for customised care, such

combat dandruff, itching and flakes; light

South Africa for the seminar, to share his

as directed care routines,’ Popplewell

weight hair oils are an important part

extensive knowledge of the global hair care

explains. ‘Consumers are also interested in

of the hair care regime for 63 percent

market. Popplewell said the global market is

formulation solutions for damage, which

of African women and 56 percent are

set to reach US$93.9 billion in value by 2022,

is seeing an increase in the number of

interested in hair fragrances to keep their

with conditioners ranked as the second

care products to protect hair and prevent

hair smelling great.

biggest category. The CAGR of the global

damage. Interesting claims include bond

hair care market is predicted at 4.4 percent

building technology, defence against

circles, African hair can be worn in so

and in Africa it’s double that, at 8.8 percent.

damage and actives to improve hair’s

many different ways,’ Mafupa said. ‘What’s

This means there is massive growth potential

integrity. The head wear trend is driving

important is hair care products should

for brand owners and manufacturers within

the demand for new product formats while

cater to this diversity.’

the African hair care space.

we’re seeing a number of novel innovations

‘As we celebrate diversity in all life’s

Natalie MacGregor, business unit manager: pharmaceuticals and personal care, IMCD South Africa

12

Evenes Ruth Mafupa

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

David Popplewell

‘Brands can take inspiration to match

Henkel SA’s Synodia Bhasera

INGREDIENTS IMCD South Africa’s Sustainable Beauty Box

and broad pH applicability. Conarom™ b aromatic can be added to formulations at any phase of production when worked into products at ambient temperature.

Typical uses include body and skin care emulsions, eye care products, sun care, shampoo and body washes, conditioners and wet wipes.•

REAL CONTRIBUTIONS TO A MORE SUSTAINABLE WORLD in the dry shampoo category based on

irritation. Both options are ideal for baby

styling and fragrance delivery systems.

wipes, which are generally preserved with

Clear shampoos and conditioners are also

phenoxyethanol. One percent of Optiphen

very trendy.’

DP is a good alternative to phenoxyethanol to preserve baby wipes.

PROGRESSIVE PRESERVATIVES

Conarom b aromatic – Ashland's

Ashland offers a variety of sustainable

mildest preservation technology – is

and modern approaches to product

the nature identical to Phenylpropanol.

preservation, which were showcased

Conarom b addresses the demand

during the seminar.

for multifunctional and sustainable

Its Optiphen preservatives are

ingredients. At dosages of between

approved for use in all major markets and

0.3 to two percent, it contributes to

compatible with a variety of formulations.

microbial stabilisation by delivering broad

These preservatives are based on

antimicrobial protection as a secondary

Phenoxyethanol, the most commonly used

effect. Formulators will appreciate the

preservative in Europe followed by organic

liquid state, good formulation compatibility

acids, making them free from paraben, formaldehyde and halogens. products in the Optiphen range are effective against gram-positive and gramnegative bacteria, yeast and mould and across a wide pH range and are easily solubilised in water. technologies for basic and multifaceted formulations, ranging from complex to

safety by limiting the probability of skin

3. Quality education through programmes for employee development.

6. IMCD South Africa sponsors three children at the Heart of Hope Children’s home, contributing to their medical aid needs, schooling and extra activities throughout the year.

With its Optiphen range, Ashland offers

to parabens. They help ensure product

2 . Zero hunger by preserving rural living standards and working with small community groups and social projects on ingredients such as virgin coconut oil, shea butter and argan oil; as well as careful use of natural resources and reusing feedstocks not suitable for food manufacturing.

5. IMCD Germany contributes to a therapeutic horse riding programme that helps to develop children’s co-ordination and balance whilst building muscle strength.

offer excellent heat stability. They work

and DLP are both suitable alternatives

1. No poverty by adding value within regional communities where possible, such as obtaining crude shea butter from Africa instead of purchasing nuts; working with a partner in Africa, who engages with thousands of women self-help groups and tribal people to ensure higher than market related prices are paid for ingredients, creating a sustainable supply chain for its mango kernel butter and shorea butter.

4. Gender equality by empowering women to be financially independent with its Star shea butter and by supporting women entrepreneurs with its argan oil programme.

Challenge tested at 0.5 percent,

easy to use preservatives. Optiphen DP

The UN Sustainable Development Goals call for action to promote prosperity while protecting the planet. IMCD makes a number of valuable contributions to:

Ana Da Costa, IMCD South Africa’s customer solutions manager

7. IMCD China collects points with every purchase it makes which are redeemable for charity donations. The end result is contribution covering a full year’s school tuition for a migrant worker’s child in Shangai, China, where access to schooling, healthcare and social infrastructure is restricted.

8. IMCD Benelux promotes sustainable trading partnerships to help local women maintain a decent livelihood and gain financial independence through the harvesting of shea butter in Ghana.

Jackie Swart, R&D manager at Ascendis Health; Giulio Pozzobon, Millchem’s national sales manager for cosmetics and detergency; and Chris Damen, Millchem’s sales director

Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

13

INGREDIENTS

Don’t sweat the search for

antiperspirant actives When it comes to antiperspirant solutions, ChemSystems has got you covered. The company’s solutions cover current and new innovations in antiperspirant technology.

The wide range of applications of a liquid format antiperspirant active

By Jacques Strydom

Liquid AP active

Aqueous roll on

Hydro alcoholic roll on

Aqueous cream

Pump spray

Clear gel

Hydro solid

Hydro alcoholic aerosol

































Achieve L1050 & L7048 Achieve L5335, L5340, L5435, L5440, L5535 & L5835 Achieve L9082

A

luminium chlorohydrate (ACH)

solution containing aluminium zirconium

affordable active solution outperforms other

has been the workhorse of the

tetrachlorohydrex and is easily formulated

patented gel actives.

antiperspirant market for the

into any roll on, cream or clear gel. It is

last three decades. It offers a

more effective than regular ACH and

aerosols which uses a patented molecule

extremely stable in the final formulation.

to yield enhanced performance and is

reduction in perspiration and creates a

Aero+ is an affordable powder active for

clinically proven to have superior sweat

skin environment hostile to the growth of malodour producing bacteria, helping

NEW FOR THE MARKET

reduction benefits. The active doesn’t

diminish underarm odour.

The antiperspirant market has been lacking

cause skin irritation and doesn’t leave

in innovation in the last 35 years, partly due

behind a white residue. AP+ is a new active

antiperspirant actives, offers ACH as an

to the FDA antiperspirant active matrix. This

for stick applications which offers 15 to 20

odourless, clear 50 percent solution,

controls how AP actives can be designed

percent better sweat reduction than the

marketed under the trade name Achieve

to promote effective products that protect

most effective antiperspirant actives on the

L1050. The unique morphology of this

consumers. Some would argue innovation

market. It rounds off the innovative Plus r

active significantly reduces the incidence

in this market is dead, but ChemSystems

ange of products, offering a solution for

of stains and white marks, which are

begs to differ, particularly with the

all possible applications in antiperspirant

common when using antiperspirants.

acclaimed Plus range.

product technology. •

ChemSystems, a key supplier of

The non-irritating nature of the active

Dry On+ is considered the highest

has been verified by dermatologists.

performing antiperspirant active in the

Achieve L5435 is an odourless 35 percent

market for gel and roll on applications. This

14

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

ChemSystems – www.chemsystems.co.za

HAIR CARE

Proteins – hero ingredients to replenish hair

Using proteomics, Croda has taken biomimetics to the next level, facilitating a broader understanding of how hair type and damage may impact the hair fibre on a fundamental level and contribute to a loss in protein. Its R&D team focused on African hair, before and after a lye-based relaxer treatment.

V

arious hair care routines can impart damage on hair. For example, bleaching, curling and combing often leads to

brittle, dry and difficult to manage hair.

It is understood that different styling treatments can damage hair in numerous ways. Keratin makes up around 91 percent of the hair structure when dry and is composed of two parts: the external cuticle and internal cortex. Keratin is the name given to the cystine containing proteins found in hair fibres. Proteins and protein derivatives are commonly used in hair care products as a biomimetic solution to restore what is naturally found in hair. The logic of protecting and replenishing hair’s keratin proteins with keratin derivatives, or treating ‘like with like’, has increased in popularity in recent years.

METHOD

harsh analysis. The team developed

We took a subtler approach to assess

a method that analyses at the labile

corresponding intermediate filament

the proteins easily leached from hair, as

proteins leached from the hair fibre

protein, its function and sometimes,

opposed to determining hair’s overall

into water, as we felt this was a closer

even where it is expressed, for example,

protein content, which is an extremely

reflection of consumers’ practices.

in the cortex.

20% Relative Humidity

We were then able to determine the

Croda has started to utilise proteomics

80% Relative Humidity

to assess the fundamental differences in

2.50E-02

the proteins leached from hair into water, depending on the hair type and damage mechanisms. The company has begun

Break Stress (gmf / µm2)

2.00E-02

to show how different hair types and damage mechanisms can contribute to

*

a loss of protein from the hair fibre.

1.50E-02 *

To determine this, two extremes were compared. The team analysed European

1.00E-02

hair and compared it to African hair, not only because of the vast differences in curl type, but also due to its notoriety of

5.00E-03

being difficult to manage. They decided to use a relaxer treatment to damage

0.00E+00

these hair types, as it is arguably one Virgin African Hair (Untreated)

Relaxed African Hair (Untreated)

Relaxed African Hair (Treated with 1% active ProSina)

A graph to show the improvement of the tensile strength of African hair after treatment with ProSina under different humidity conditions (n~50, *p<0.05 relative to untreated relaxed African hair)

16

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

of the harshest treatments that can be performed and is a common practice for people with higher curl types. Although

HAIR CARE

it increases the manageability of the

proteins within the hair. The proteomic

hair, it often causes a loss in strength

analysis showed far more proteins were

and overall quality. Utilising this protein

leached from African hair than European

analysis technique, they assessed the

hair – not only more proteins but also

proteins leached from the following:

a completely different set. They also

• African hair (curl type VII)

found that relaxing the hair severely

• A frican hair (curl type VII) after a lye-

Fluorescent image of hair soaked for one hour with tagged ProSina

affected the protein loss profile for both

the structural building blocks of keratin

based relaxer

African and European hair, including

fibres. This novel hydrolysis process

• European hair

a completely different set of proteins.

also allows ProSina to maintain a high

• relaxed European hair.

Some of these proteins were known to be

level of cystine relative to other forms of

They analysed the proteins leached

expressed within the cortex of the hair.

hydrolysed keratin. Utilising proteomic

from these hair types into water, being

Satisfying the demand for increasingly

analysis, we found that ProSina contains

the most labile and weakly bound

tailored and individualised hair care

peptides that match the keratin proteins

treatments, this technique can also

leached from relaxed African hair.

DID YOU KNOW?

Proteomics is a scientific technique used to identify and quantify proteins within a biological system. Within hair care, it has advanced the understanding of the composition of human hair, how damage affects its structure on a fundamental level and how this can contribute to a loss of protein.

be used to match leached peptides to

Some of these matching peptides

the treatment peptides found in Croda

contained in ProSina and leached

products, providing recommendations

from relaxed African hair correspond

on how to replenish lost proteins.

to proteins usually expressed in the cortex. To determine the delivery of

REPLENISHMENT

ProSina peptides into the hair, we utilised

Taking protein replenishment a step

fluorescent microscopy. Fluorescently

further, they then assessed a host of

tagging ProSina gave us the ability to

Croda’s protein-based ingredients.

determine the delivery of the peptides

ProSina is a unique hydrolysed keratin,

to the hair. They found that soaking

manufactured using a proprietary

relaxed African hair for one hour in a

process that retains intact forms of

one percent w/w solution (0.1 percent

intermediate filament proteins. These are

active) of ProSina allowed the peptides to

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

17

HAIR CARE 4000

Average Cycles until Breakage

3500

ProSina was incorporated into a basic rinse off conditioner at a 0.2 percent

3000

active level. This was then applied to the 2500

hair using the following protocol: • V irgin/relaxed hair previously washed

2000

with basic shampoo • C onditioner applied to hair and then

1500

massage for one minute • C onditioner was left on hair for

1000

two minutes • H air was rinsed with warm water.

500

Treatment using Croda’s global hair 0

Relaxed African hair (Untreated)

Relaxed African hair (Treated with Conditioner)

Relaxed African hair (Treated with Conditioner with 0.2% active ProSina)

Average number of stress cycles required to break relaxed African hair strands, and strands treated with a rinse-off conditioner with and without ProSina. This shows that treatment using ProSina increases the number of cycles to break.

conditioner reduces the number of cycles to break as the relaxed hair is already so damaged and any plasticisation offered by the basic conditioner softens the damaged fibre making it weaker.

Although this was an unexpected result, it was confirmed with repeated testing.

deposit on the cuticle and penetrate into

structural interactions of ProSina within

the cortex. It’s believed that by damaging

the fibre and not as a result of moisture

the hair, more of the protein was able

binding alone, which is often the case of

the plasticising effect but also increases

to be delivered to the cortex. This was

underivatised proteins.

the strength of relaxed African hair.

CYCLIC TESTING

CONCLUSION

Further testing was conducted on African

By analysing the proteins easily leached

TENSILE TESTING

hair in Croda’s Centre of Excellence

into water and assessing the peptide

This method of testing is commonly used

in South Africa. Utilising cyclic fatigue

content of many different protein-

to assess hair strength. Proof of concept

testing, a new technique for evaluating

based ingredients in the Croda range,

testing was performed on virgin African

hair strength, we could determine the

ProSina was found to contain peptides

hair and relaxed African hair with and

strengthening benefits of ProSina.

that match those in proteins easily lost

The use of ProSina not only mitigates

not observed when the experiment was repeated with non-damaged, virgin hair.

Cyclic fatigue testing is a method

from relaxed African hair. This allows

used to assess hair strength. Instead

Croda to build upon the biomimetic

to determine the effect of ProSina on

of using high forces required in

approach to proteins within hair care,

the strength and quality of the hair. The

traditional tensile testing, hair fibres are

by suggesting protein-based products

test was completed both at 20 and 80

placed under very low tension, before

to replenish specific peptides into the

percent relative humidity. We observed

the tension is released. This cycle is

hair, depending on the hair type and

a significant increase in tensile strength

repeated until the fibre breaks due to

the damage inflicted. •

when relaxed African hair was treated

the propagation of cracks and flaws in

with ProSina. Testing, both at high and

the hair strand. The number of cycles

low humidity, allows Croda to determine

can be used as a measure of the hair’s

the positive effects are likely due to some

resistance to breakage.

without the treatment of ProSina.

A one percent active level was used

18

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

Raw Material for all your Personal Care needs

Crest Chemicals

Better together with Crest Chemicals www.crestchem.co.za

Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 Cape Town (021) 534 3140 Durban (031) 902 5324 London (043) 726 8027 Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

HAIR CARE

Natural is the new normal With the move toward natural beauty, many consumers are adopting new hair care routines.

Whether its hair maintenance, special treatments and styling, consumers want hair and skin care products that enhance their unique and natural features rather than masking them to conform to traditional beauty standards.

A

shower gel cleanse skin while sloughing off the dull layers. Its shea moisturising body lotion delivers a nourishing and protective barrier to keep skin happy and hydrated.

THE ENVIRONMENTAL INFLUENCE Water scarcity affects one in three people in Africa. Rising population numbers, urbanisation and additional household and industrial uses of water

lthough individualised hair and

Consumers with textured hair are also

skin care is on trend globally,

interested in product innovations that

products for textured hair

address their individual needs and style

and dark skin were previously

aspirations appropriately.

underrepresented in the market.

By bringing new, protective formulas

Understanding the growing demand for

to market, even higher value is placed

these products, Lubrizol is proud to offer a

on better quality products that nourish

new line of formulations designed to meet

and protect fragile hair, hydrate the

the needs of African consumers.

scalp and keep the damaging effects of

The Essentials is a collection inspired

environmental aggressors at bay.

by and created for consumers in

Lubrizol’s stimulating sugar scrub for the

African markets. Each formulation

scalp and its sebum control scalp mask

features a combination of Lubrizol’s high

help to maintain the health of textured

performing ingredients along with locally

hair. The curl activator hair gel and

sourced raw materials. To keep fragile

strong and extra strong styling gels

hair and dry skin as healthy as possible,

provide a spectrum of hold to achieve

the company has developed styling

a variety of styles with any hair type, no

formulas for braids and curls, nourishing

matter the climate.

lotions and exfoliating cleansers for the scalp and body, which include some of

FEEL GOOD IN YOUR SKIN

Lubrizol’s most advanced technologies.

Skin care for dark skin types is starting to get the attention it deserves. Dark skin

THE RIGHT CARE FOR HAIR

sheds its outer layers at a higher rate

Textured hair is known to be some of the

than other skin types, it contains lower

most delicate, fragile and unruliest hair

ceramide levels and is often subjected

in the world. Consumers with textured

to harsh climates.

hair require more maintenance and

There is an increased need in the

styling products that provide hair health

Ethnic care category for products

benefits, calm their curls and control frizz,

that restore moisturisation. Those that

even in extreme environments. Lubrizol’s

prevent an ashy appearance of skin,

nourishing and conditioning shampoo,

especially products enriched with quality

pink hair moisturising lotion and its three

ingredients like shea butter and coconut

in one braid spray tame textured locks

oil are in high demand. Lubrizol’s coconut

and protect them from damage.

pearlised shower gel and fruity exfoliating

continue to put pressure on this dwindling resource. While protection from the hot and arid climate is important to African consumers, so is protection from harmful bacteria and the ability to live healthily on a limited supply of potable water. Lubrizol’s hand sanitiser gel helps consumers overcome this challenge by providing a convenient, no-rinse solution to sanitise hands. •

REGIONAL EXPERTISE THROUGH NEW APPOINTMENT

Dedicated to the evolution of technology and capabilities to meet ever-changing market demands, Lubrizol continues to expand its global presence with industry experts.

The company is proud to announce it is strengthening its footprint in the region with the recent appointment of Zaheer Ernest as business development manager.

With over 10 years’ chemical industry experience gained throughout sub-Saharan Africa and four years’ specific focus on personal care, Lubrizol is excited to add Ernest’s knowledge to its global expertise to better serve customers in the region, together with its distribution partners, Carst & Walker and Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Lubrizol – www.lubrizol.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

19

HAIR CARE

The ultimate beauty accessory is

healthy hair

As the natural hair trend continues to spread in Africa, consumers are adopting styles and maintenance habits that help them achieve a healthy scalp, manageable hair and vibrant colour. Through its international principals, Savannah Fine Chemicals offers innovative ingredients for products that address modern hair care concerns.

C

onsidering the specifics associated with the different textures of African hair, Toya Mitchell, a multicultural

analyst at Mintel says it’s important for brands to develop products that target each hair type and meet consumers diverse expectations. ‘Product innovation, expanded retail distribution and brand messaging recognise that the future of the black hair care market is dependent on chemical-free consumers,’ she explains.

While natural hair is the norm, African consumers have different attitudes, beauty standards and motivations behind their style and product choices, including chemically treated hair.

69 PERCENT OF AFRICAN WOMEN USE SCALP TREATMENTS TO COMBAT THE SYMPTOMS OF DANDRUFF

According to Mintel research, black consumers in African countries often

flaking of scales, itching and redness.

action profile, Ichthyol Pale provides a

purchase products that target the

According to Ichthyol-Gesellschaft, an

wider approach to address all symptoms

following needs: chemical treated

independent pharmaceutical company

associated with dandruff, offering an

hair, anti-frizz, scalp care products and

based in Hamburg, Germany, the main

enhanced prospective for successful

products that can potentially reduce

active ingredients used in treatment

treatment. Ichthyol Pale is well known

certain environmental effects.

schemes for dandruff have anti-fungal

for its broad spectrum of efficacy. It

actions only. These actives include ZPT,

efficiently removes scales from the

FIGHT THE FLAKES

Ketoconazole and Piroctone Olamine,

scalp, while offering anti-microbial,

According to research, 69 percent of

which are said to lack the actual

anti-inflammatory, anti-seborrheic and

African women use scalp treatments

properties needed to address the

anti-itching benefits to successfully

to combat the symptoms of dandruff –

symptoms of dandruff.

counter the symptoms of dandruff.

itching and flakes. Jostylin, a YouTube

Identifying a gap in the market for

Because of its multifunctionality and

hair enthusiast, natural hair care blogger

pharma grade ingredients to treat skin

good tolerance, in recent studies Ichthyol

and founder of the African hair care

disorders such as dandruff, Ichthyol-

Pale was shown to be superior to well-

brand, JoStylin says ‘the struggle is real

Gesellschaft developed the substance,

established anti-dandruff agents like Zinc

for many of us naturals. First dryness,

Ichthyol, many years ago. It is based on

Pyrithione, Piroctone Olamine and Coal

breakage, then finding out why our hair

sulphonated shale oils of the highest

Tar. Studies have also shown it can boost

just won’t grow, coupled with having

purity. A variant of Ichthyol, Ichthyol

the performance of Ketoconazole. An

to deal with horrible white flakes on our

Pale is a multi-component mixture of

anti-dandruff shampoo formulated with

beautiful natural, black African hair’.

different compounds with a high content

a combination of 0.5 percent of Ichthyol

of organically combined sulphur. It is

Pale and 0.5 percent Ketoconazole

vicious cycle of excessive desquamation

distinguished by a broad action profile

was found to be more effective than

where local inflammatory processes,

including anti-inflammatory, sebo-

a shampoo containing 1.0 percent of

microbial colonisation of the scalp

suppressive and anti-microbial effects

ketoconazole alone. With 71 percent

and over-secretion of oil glands often

used to treat skin blemishes, erythema

improvement in itching and 75 percent

concur. The main symptoms are

and dandruff. Because of its broad

improvement in skin redness after a

Dandruff is often referred to as a

20

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

HAIR CARE

mere 56 percent improvement in itching

(20 percent water by weight) and has

with no improvement in skin redness at

been shown to enable rich, long-lasting

all. Effects on scaling were similar.

colour performance with excellent grey coverage. Due to its high alkalinity and

HAIR CARE GETS SOCIAL Online platforms like social media are a growing channel for the African hair care market. Mintel research shows 68 percent of black women aged between 18 and 34 are interested in using social media to search for how-to video tutorials.

Beyond learning about styles, social media is where African consumers are doing their shopping, with 32 percent of black consumers purchasing hair care products online.

RICH, LONG-LASTING COLOUR

low volatility, the alkalising agent is an

Stylists and consumers used to perceive

ideal low-odour alternative to ammonia

colouring textured African hair as

in oxidative hair colourants. Colour

taboo, because it resulted in brittleness,

performance of black and red shades

irritation and breakage. The reality is

using DMAMP Ultra PC is comparable

any ethnicity or hair type can use hair

to hair dyes formulated with ammonia

dye – even textured African hair can be

which are currently on the market. This

dyed a light brown, bright red, hue of

alkalising agent from Angus outperforms

pink and or a shade of blue. These days,

other low-odour alkalisers and provides

in the hair colouring segment, consumer

formulators with an alternative solution

trends lean more towards chemical

that deposits rich hair colour and

awareness. Ammonia has been used

provides superior wash fastness of colour.

for years as the most robust alkaliser for

Ingredients and formulation technologies

colour palette and performance, yet

from Ichthyol-Gesellschaft and Angus are

consumers have become highly aware of

available throughout southern Africa and

its unpleasant odour. To address growing

key east and west African markets from

consumer demand for low-odour hair

Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

colorants, Angus Chemical Company (Angus) has introduced DMAMP Ultra PC (INCI: Dimethylamino Methylpropanol).

treatment phase of just two weeks, the

This multifunctional alkalising agent

combination product outpaced the

is suitable for use in professional

Ketoconazole shampoo considerably.

and retail oxidative hair colourants.

The Ketoconazole shampoo resulted in a

DMAMP Ultra PC is 80 percent active

Angus Chemical Company – www.angus.com Ichthyol-Gesellschaft – www.ichthyol.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

21

HAIR CARE

Figure 1: A serum with 0.25 percent of Bio-Capigen Veg increased KRT1 expression by 26 percent

Vegan alternatives for textured hair

Bio-Capigen Veg is a plant-based keratin alternative for use in anti-hair loss and hair growth formulas. With the growing natural and cruelty free ingredients trend, the industry is actively promoting vegan-friendly ingredients.

A

lthough many ingredients

ability to bind moisture and improve the

are plant based, it is still

hair strength, reducing damage caused

a challenge to ensure

by bleaching, perming and combing.

ingredients used in cosmetics

tick all the boxes for vegans.

Cobiosa’s Bio-Capigen Veg, available

Figure 2: A 10.2 percent in hair count is recorded after 28 days of cleansing hair with three percent Bio-Capigen Veg

REVITALISE HAIR EFFECTIVELY The peptidic fractions or phytostimulins

throughout southern Africa from

are characterised by their ability

Botanichem, is a vegetable alternative

to stimulate cellular vital functions,

to animal keratin and placenta and

increasing the energy potential of cells,

alopecia used a shampoo with three

suitable for use as an anti-hair loss

their oxygen consumption and cellular

percent Bio-Capigen Veg and one

and hair growth complex. The active

renewal, for stronger hair.

ampoule dose of 10 percent, three

ingredient is derived from red onion

In vitro testing of Bio-Capigen Veg

times a week for 28 days. After 28 days,

extract of the bulbs of Allium cepa,

for keratin (KRT1) stimulation showed a

there was a 10.2 percent (see Figure 2)

which has a long history of traditional

serum with 0.25 percent of the active

increase in hair count, a 10.9 percent

use in Chinese medicine. Its properties to

ingredient increased KRT1 expression by

increase in hair density and a

stimulate hair growth are well known and

26 percent, compared to an untreated

13.1 percent increase in anagen/

it has been proven effective in treating

control (see Figure 1).

telogen ratio. Bio-Capigen Veg also

This result is significant for textured

Alopecia areata.

contains ginseng to stimulate hair

hair because the keratin helps eliminate

growth, zinc to limit sebum activity,

hydrolysed soy protein and a balanced

excessive frizz and rebel curl, maintaining

glucose as a valuable source of energy

composition of peptides, amino acids

cuticular homogeneity. It also maintains

in the anagen or growth phase of the

and mineral salts. The soy protein

moisture by sealing cuticular scales and

follicle and a range of vitamins for

presents an important percentage of

improves strength and elasticity – which

general hair vitality. •

essential amino acids, not synthesised

are both major issues of Ethnic hair.

Bio-Capigen Veg is also made of

by an organism and practically equal

During in vivo testing for hair growth

to those in hair keratin. Proteins are

stimulation and anti-hair loss properties,

important for hair as they increase its

21 male volunteers with androgenic

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Cobiosa – www.cobiosa.com

Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, offers a well equipped onsite laboratory for independent stability testing for the cosmetic industry. Stability testing is vital to ensure your product maintains its intended physical, chemical & microbiological quality.

We offer: • Stability Testing • Regulatory Labelling • Formulation • Product Information Files for Export FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT ROBYN OR LINA. 011 425 2206 OR 011 425 2648 info@botanichem.co.za / lina@botanichem.co.za

22

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

ADVERTORIAL

SENSIENT’S portfolio of coatings Easy to use solutions for your brand Sensient has the expertise to add value to your product, from coloured coating solutions in a tablet application to extracts with added flavour benefits for liquid suspensions.

M

anufacturers need a wide variety of thin film coatings for nutraceutical applications. This is to ensure they meet consumers’ needs for convenience and personalisation, while ensuring products fit the requirements of e-commerce.

Coating systems need to provide aesthetically pleasing attributes as well as functional benefits.

SENSIENT’S LABORATORY EXPERTISE PROVIDES CUSTOMERS WITH A COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE Sensient is a worldwide leader in developing colour, flavour, extract and coating excipient solutions from R&D through to manufacturing. Its global supply and manufacturing capabilities ensure consistent product availability and flexible, reliable delivery. The company’s market specialists identify both mega and micro trends shaping consumer behaviour across the globe, or in a customer’s specific area of interest.

Sensient leverages this information to help customers develop, launch and capitalise on the most marketable new concepts. Sensient achieves this through

proprietary processes, computerised sensory and consumer data, a state-ofthe-art analytical lab and fully equipped supporting pilot plants.

EASY TO USE COATING SYSTEMS

Today’s consumers want more functionality, added benefits and, above all, efficacy in pharmaceuticals. Sensient understands consumers and how to market the best solution to meet their needs. Sensient’s laboratory expertise provides customers with a competitive advantage in the choice of raw materials with greater efficiency, in a more reliable and convenient delivery of ingredients, improved quality control, lower processing costs and improved product stability.

PROTECT™ ENTERIC

Protect™ is a high efficiency enteric coating solution, which is a twocomponent shellac based system.

Shellac is an enteric neutral polymer used for sealing as well as taste and odour masking. This easy to use solution outperforms other enteric coatings due to enhanced stability. As a fully customisable coating, Protect™ Enteric can provide unique colour and visual appeal for brand definition through added colour or flavour.

MASTERCOTE™

Where a sugar coating is desired, Mastercote can deliver advanced stable colouring options from glycerin/ propylene glycol-based systems, oil or wax based systems, and/or sugar syrupbased systems. Sensient’s progressive technology brings out bright, vibrant and natural colour for clean label solutions, by way of an easy to use coating system. Mastercote eliminates the need for expensive air filtering devices often required in manufacturing plants by providing an easy to measure, dust free option, which reduces the likelihood of costly errors. It also delivers coloured sugar-based coating system advantages with higher solids and smooth surfaces.

To learn more about these cost-effective and easy to use coating solutions, contact Sensient today. •

Sensient Technologies South Africa E-mail: patricia.kruger@sensient.com Website: www.sensient.com P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

23

GC Smart 500, Glatt’s intelligent pan coating system

PHARMA FOCUS: OSD FORMS

How to solve your

tablet coating problems For tablet-based medicines, pharma plants in Africa need the capacity to produce roughly half a billion tablets annually to be competitive to India.

P C Africa shares advice from Glatt on how to overcome 10 key challenges in the tablet coating process.

P

harmaceutical markets in subSaharan Africa are growing at a rapid pace as governments and healthcare providers battle

PROBLEM

DESCRIPTION

POSSIBLE EXPLANATIONS

SOLUTIONS

Tablet surface is rough or uneven

• distance between nozzle and tablet bed is incorrect • spray angle is wrong • dispersion sedimentation • viscosity or solid content is too high • high friability from inadequate core properties • incorrect atomising air pressure (too high or low)

• increase the spray rate • decrease drying capacity • reduce atomising air pressure • decrease viscosity • optimise distance between the nozzle and tablet bed

Filling in of the logo or break line

• viscosity is too high • plasticiser content is too low • spray rate is too high • atomising air pressure is incorrect

• decrease viscosity • increase plasticiser content • reduce the spray rate • adjust the spray pressure

Two or more tablets stick together

• over-humidification • process air volume is too low • unsuitable tablet shape planar

• reduce spray rate • increase the drying capacity • optimise tablet form to biconvex • use releasing agents in the formulation

Coatings are ripped off when tablets stick

• pan speed is too low • air temperature is too low • process air volume is too low • spray rate is too high • process is too damp

• increase the pan speed • increase the inlet air temperature • increase the process air volume • reduce the spray rate

Grey layer forms on the tablet surface

• TiO2 quantity is too high • interaction occurs between the drum wall and the coating

• reduce TiO2 quantity • spray the drum prior to the trial

Film surface detaches from the tablet

• hygroscopic core • disintegrants are used

• use a subcoat • optimise process parameters

Batch colour is varied

• coverage properties of the coating are insufficient • solid content of the suspension is too high • weight gain level is too low • batch quantity is too low

• add more pigment to increase coverage property • reduce the solid content • increase weight gain level

• application rate is too low • API interacts with the coating material • low opacity • API diffuses from the core • overhumidification

• increase weight gain • adapt the formulation or change the pigments • increase coverage properties of the coating formulation • use a subcoat • increase tablet bed temperature

Orange peel/ roughness

the burdens of disease. Although the continent is home to only 15 percent of the world’s population, disease is one of its biggest challenges.

The drive to control and ultimately, eradicate communicable diseases

Logo bridging

such as HIV/Aids and tuberculosis presents pharma manufacturers with immense opportunities for growth in the Africa market. In sub-Saharan Africa,

Twinning

countries such as Kenya, Nigeria and South Africa have a relatively sizable pharmaceutical industry, according to McKinsey & Company. Dozens of the pharma companies in these countries

Sticking and ripping off coating

produce everything from simple, small molecules, such as generics in tablet, capsule and syrup formats to the more complex combination drugs, injectables

Scuffing

and vaccines. These pharma products are produced for regional consumption

Capping

and, in some cases, to export to neighbouring countries.

Pharma industry information released

Batch colour variation

in January by McKinsey & Company

Individual colour variation Uneven colour on individual tablets

Peeling Film spalling due to coating cracking

• tablet swells • plasticiser content is too low • tablet is too wet • tablet hardness in insufficient • tablet outgasses

Friability

Tablet mass reduced due to abrasion

An interior view showing the innovative spray technology within the GC Smart 500

24

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

• mechanical stress • tablets are too soft • tablets are too damp • pan speed is too high

• use a subcoat • increase plasticiser content • spray with drier conditions • increase the film forming polymer • reduce the pan speed • optimise the core formulation • spraying with drier conditions • use the interval ‘jog mode’ while heating cores

DID YOU KNOW?

reveals there are roughly 375 manufacturers of pharmaceutical products on the

PHARMA FOCUS: OSD FORMS

Africa carries nearly 24 percent of the global disease in pharma applications. Film burden, making the demand coatings provide a broad for medicines and other range of functions such pharmaceutical products as taste or odour masking, greater than ever. controlled release of the active

continent to serve a population of around 1.3 billion people. Most of these producers

ingredients and physical and chemical protection.

Glatt, represented throughout

is the integrated ‘wash in place/clean in place’ system. Coupled with a watertight housing, the system provides complete cleaning of the coating drum and interior housing. A set of hinged access doors on the left and right side of the housing provide easy access to the exhaust and inlet air connections for

are based in North Africa. Producers in

sub-Saharan Africa by Reitech SA – a

cleaning, inspection and maintenance.

sub-Saharan Africa are largely clustered

supplier of packaging machinery and

Because coating formulation and the

in just nine of 46 countries and they are

engineering solutions for the pharma

tablet coating process are both relatively

mostly small, with operations that do not

and FMCG industries, produces

complex and can lead to problems

meet international standards. Because

perforated coating pans. These

during production, Glatt has put together

the economies, technical capabilities

modern tablet coating machines have

comprehensive information on the

and expertise vary from one country

removeable nozzle arms, free hanging

possible film coating problems and

to the next, challenges can occur

drums and swinging side doors. Process

how to prevent or overcome them. The

when manufacturing pharmaceutical

air flow is controlled according to

information is provided in-conjunction

products. For this reason, it’s imperative

temperature, humidity and volume. The

with Biogrund, a German company that

to leverage the expertise of industry

coating is sprayed from the air-atomized

specialises in the development and

suppliers, such as Glatt, which is a

nozzles positioned directly above the

production of solid oral dosage forms.

market leader in life science systems

tablet bed. The process airflow is used

Its unique and ready to use film coating,

for the refinement and processing of

for drying and it’s controlled to regulate

sugar-coating, tabletting and colouring

pharmaceutical powders.

the drying rate.Glatt’s design provides

products are said to guarantee optimal

complete isolation of the mechanical

production results in a short time. •

FILM COATING IN FOCUS

drive system from the product processing

Perforated coating pans are typically

area, ensuring maximum containment

used for aqueous and solvent film

and facilitating cGMP compliance.

coating and sugar coating of tablets

Another essential aspect of the design

Biogrund – www.biogrund.com Glatt – www.glatt.com Reitech SA – www.reitech.co.za

www.glatt.com

Glatt. MultiLab.

The All in One Solution for OSD Lab Processes.

Glatt. Pelletizing System.

The Solution for “High Drug Loading” Pellets.

Glatt. TwinPro.

The Future of Process Fusion.

Glatt. Integrated Process Solutions.

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

25

INDUSTRY TALK

Poorer African nations

succeed in fighting NTDs In the war against diseases of poverty, commonly known as neglected tropical diseases, African countries with modest national incomes are outperforming some richer nations on the continent. This is according to a new league table ranking.

N

eglected tropical diseases

South Africa and Equatorial Guinea (both

(NTDs) such as blinding

‘medium income’ by the UN measure),

trachoma, the leading cause

or Gabon and Botswana (both ‘higher

of infectious blindness – or

income’ according to the UN) were all

intestinal worms that can stunt growth

ranked in the bottom third of the disease

in children, are endemic in poor

fighters’ league table.

communities without access to clean

However, Botswana looks set to change

water and with inadequate sewerage systems. These diseases affect 1.6 billion people worldwide – that’s one in five on the planet – including over 600 million people in Africa.

The league table ranks the countries according to their

this with its late 2018 pledge to use

DID YOU KNOW?

its own domestic resources to eliminate all neglected tropical diseases found

within its borders, starting NTDs were once prevalent throughout the world, this year. including in western countries.

Botswana joins But they are now almost Mozambique, which also exclusively endemic made a commitment to to developing allocate US$6 million of nations.

performance in reaching

domestic resources to fight

NTDs. Most endemic countries

everyone in need with the

receive outside help for their elimination

necessary treatment, across the five

programmes. The organisation, Uniting

most common NTDs in Africa, which

to Combat Neglected Tropical Diseases,

are amenable to mass treatment. The

hopes to see an increase in the levels of

countries treating the highest proportion of

funding coming from domestic sources

those in need across all five diseases rank

for fighting these diseases. The highest

highest in the table.

ranking country in this year’s disease

The table shows Malawi, Sierra Leone

fighters league table is eSwatini (the

and Togo – all three countries with modest

former Swaziland). While the number

national incomes – have, for the third

of people in need of treatment in

year running, reported high treatment

eSwatini is much smaller than Nigeria, as

levels to those in need across five disease

eSwatini still scores highly because of its

categories. The World Health Organization

commitment to reach every individual in

(WHO) reckons if countries consistently

need of treatment.

However, African Heads of State put them in the spotlight at the current AU Summit through the African Leaders Malaria Alliance (ALMA). This forum tracks the fight against malaria and, since 2018, reviews the fight against NTDs. NTDs are known as diseases of poverty because they thrive in communities with limited resources and perpetuate low income by limiting the ability of individuals to work and go to school. They cause disability and stigma and can even lead to death. Considerable progress has been made against NTDs. In 2018, Ghana passed a milestone. The country’s President, Nana Akufo-Addo comments: ‘We became the first sub-Saharan African country to eliminate blinding trachoma, a painful and debilitating disease. We cannot achieve the sustainable development goals without addressing the needs of the

treat and protect more than 75 percent of people needing care, across the five

PREVENTABLE AND TREATABLE

diseases, they are on track to beating the

The five most common NTDs amenable to

diseases. Malawi, Sierra Leone and Togo

mass treatment are blinding trachoma,

all reached the 75 percent average target.

intestinal worms, mosquito-borne

All three nations are in the ‘lower

elephantiasis, snail-borne bilharzia

income’ bracket of the UN Human

and river blindness. All five NTDs can be

Development Index, which is a broad

prevented or treated with medicines

measure of national wealth.

donated by pharmaceutical companies

AFFLUENT YET NOT ON TRACK

to endemic countries.

NTDs rarely make headline news

Richer African countries with a higher

because they tend to afflict the poorest

UN Human Development Index such as

and most marginalised communities.

26

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

Edou Komlan, a patient with the limb-swelling disease lymphatic filariasis (also known as elephantiasis), pictured with his son, Sandra.

INDUSTRY TALK

Images courtesy of GSK/Marcus Perkins

ALL FIVE NTDS CAN BE PREVENTED OR TREATED WITH MEDICINES DONATED

BY PHARMACEUTICAL COMPANIES TO ENDEMIC COUNTRIES

A schoolchild in Lomé, Togo, receives Albendazole tablets to control intestinal worms (also known as soil-transmitted helminths). A nationwide deworming programme is conducted by the Togo Health Service.

NTDs, which is to reduce the number of

2017 rankings out of 49 countries with Index scores

Index score - Average of coverage of the five NTDs amenable to mass treatment calculated using the geometric mean

Number of people requiring treatment for at least one disease ('000s)

Guinea-Bissau

30 th

20

1 349

treatment and who received it, was just

Burundi

31st

17

4 926

over half, or 51 percent. By 2017, it had

Mozambique

joint 32nd

12

23 455

risen to 68 percent of the 605 million

Sudan

joint 32nd

12

11 031

people in need. This success is largely

Zimbabwe

joint 32nd

12

10 661

due to the commitment and leadership

Angola

joint 35th

10

14 740

of the WHO regional director for Africa,

Egypt

joint 35th

10

5 022

Dr Rebecca Matshidiso Moeti. Within

Madagascar

37th

9

20 216

the regional office,

Mauritania

38th

3

855

Botswana

joint 39 th

2

262

South Africa

joint 39 th

2

19 335

Special Project for the Elimination

Central African Republic

joint 41th

1

3 765

of Neglected Tropical Diseases

Chad

joint 41th

1

4 853

(ESPEN), providing technical and

South Sudan

joint 41th

1

9 500

implementation support to various

Country

people in need of treatment for NTDs by 90 percent, by the end of 2030. In 2015, the proportion of the 630 million people in sub-Saharan Africa, in need of

League table snapshot of the countries ‘not on track’, according to WHO data

Dr Moeti set up a dedicated project called the Expanded

countries. However, despite these successes, the number of countries

poorest members of our society, who are

NTDs were specifically highlighted as

in Africa being validated by the WHO

disproportionately affected by neglected

a target. During the same period, the

for achieving elimination of these

tropical diseases. I urge my fellow African

proportion of people receiving treatment

diseases is still far below the rest

leaders to prioritise ending these diseases

compared to those in need, has risen. In

of the world. There is real potential

of poverty on the continent. We have shown

sub-Saharan Africa alone, there were 630

for Africa to take leadership in this

it can be done.’

million people in need of treatment for

area and succeed. Unless this is

at least one NTD in 2015. By 2017 this had

done, NTDs will continue to cause

IT CAN BE DONE

fallen to 605 million – a drop of 25 million in

pain, disability, disfigurement and

The number of people in need of

just three years, showing that treatments

stigma for millions of people on the

treatment for NTDs has fallen since

for NTDs are effective.

continent. NTDs will also continue to

2015, when Heads of State adopted the sustainable development goals in which

This is a step in meeting the sustainable development goal for

rob developing economies of billions of dollars-worth of productivity gains. •

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

27

COLOUR COSMETICS

Touch up your makeup with functional fillers Functional fillers play an important role in modern makeup formulations, adjusting their key sensorial, application and optical properties. Because there are so many options of functional fillers on the market, Merck has collated data from extensive research to help formulators select the best fillers for their products.

T

here was a time when ‘pigmented’ was a beauty buzzword and every eyeshadow and lip gloss promised intense colour payoff while

foundations provided heavy coverage and clinged to dry patches on the skin.

Later, formulators realised pigmentation in products isn’t everything – because there’s no point in using an ultra-pigmented product if it blends badly or looks

EXPLORE MERCK’S

RONASTAR PIGMENTS • Ronastar Black Allure is the newest addition to

architecture for a completely new dimension

Merck’s Allure range. This new exciting matte

of sparkle. It features a uniform thickness and

pigment unleashes a sensational, deepest black.

extremely smooth surface. Due to its

It adds outstanding touch to the skin and is

high-tech pigment design, incoming light is

heavy and uneven. This is especially true for facial makeup.

Thanks to the barefaced makeup trend, more commonly known as ‘the no-makeup makeup look’, these days consumers want balanced

DID YOU KNOW?

velvety and smooth for a silky, matte effect.

strongly reflected to create a lustrous, crystal-like

To the eye, the impact is all elegance,

sparkle effect. Ronastar Flaming Lights works well

adding a subtle light effect without sheen or gloss. Ronastar Black

Both the RonaFlair Flawless and RonaFlair LDP White functional fillers from Merck are sustainable alternatives to plastic microbeads.

beauty products with skin care benefits. For example, a foundation should have a light skin feel yet offer good enough coverage to mask any imperfections.

To achieve a flawless complexion, consumers need makeup products that

in lip products, eye makeup and nail polish.

• Ronastar Iconic Copper turns heads and catches

Allure is based on an ingenious

the eye with added, unexpected impact. Its colour

coating technology, is easy to

is inspired by the stars and celestial objects

incorporate into formulations and

dancing on frosty horizons. This cosmetics

is especially suited for sensitive

pigment is brought to you by Merck’s Smart

skin. In colour cosmetics, the deep

Effects programme through its ‘Revolutionise

black impact of Ronastar Black Allure

Performance’ pillar. The goal was to deliver a

is ideal for graphical elements around the

realistic and revealing metallic look that provides

eyes, such as eye-shadows, mascara, pencils

a dramatic yet natural effect. The pigment has

and eyeliners.

been optimised for hydrophobic applications to

It can also be used on the lips and nails for

deliver the most mesmerising personal care and

smoky sophistication.

• Ronastar Flaming Lights is a stunning deep red effect pigment, engineered with perfect

makeup products.

• Ronastar Red Allure unfolds an elegant, matte, deep red charm without shimmering or shining.

The super stable, purely mineral ingredient enhances cosmetics formulations with an outstanding texture that feels great on skin. The secret lies in its chemical composition – spherical silica coated to perfection with titanium dioxide and iron oxide by an ingenious technology invented by Merck. The silica gives Ronastar Red Allure an unbeatable texture that glides onto the skin while the mineral particles lend it a subtle luminous effect for an added hint of elegance.

• Ronastar Quantum Gold is reminiscent of a twilight world of snowy landscapes, evening skies and sunsets that twinkle in a graceful glow, delivering a golden touch of frost. Offering an unexpected luxury that shimmers with intensity, Ronastar Quantum Gold will provide hints of hidden warmth that release golden energy in your makeup products.

The supreme benefit of Ronastar Quantum Gold is the dramatic, long-lasting metallic effect provided without the use of metal in the pigment.

28

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

COLOUR COSMETICS

DEPENDING ON THEIR STRUCTURE, FUNCTIONAL FILLERS CAN ABSORB OIL AND PREVENT CAKING

enhance their natural beauty. Karen Maier,

excellent stability in pressed powder

It is suitable for incredibly smooth, creamy

head of performance materials at Merck

formulations with good pay-off. Both

and comfortable to wear formulations and

South Africa, says a foundation should be

benefits are generally tricky to achieve

offers long-lasting performance. Products

formulated with functional fillers that deliver

simultaneously as each feature often

formulated with RonaFlair LF-2000 glide

immediately visible optical effects.

cancels out the other. To overcome this

effortlessly onto the skin and remain in

challenge, Merck’s R&D team took to the lab

place. RonaFlair Softshade is a colourless,

international team of experts and published

to test and screen its RonaFlair functional

skin enhancing filler made of fine mica

in the March 2017 SOFW Journal, functional

fillers in terms of their pay-off and stability.

particles. Coated with Merck’s proprietary

fillers are formulation materials that enhance

The team then selected filler combinations

technology using titanium dioxide,

certain properties of a product. These

offering good pay-off and good stability to

aluminium oxide and tin oxide, its surface

include pay-off, texture and homogeneity.

produce the unbreakable powder concept.

structure is designed to scatter light for a

They also provide additional benefits for

The four winning blends devised by the

natural effect that hides imperfections.

efficient claim substantiation and offer

team include:

RonaFlair Softshade evens out skin for a

appealing properties such as colour,

1. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Softshade

beautiful, natural look. It allows products

matte or lustrous effects or a natural soft-

2. RonaFlair MTU and RonaFlair SF-9

to glide onto the skin, leaving a dry,

focus effect. Depending on their structure,

3. RonaFlair LF-2000 and RonaFlair

powdery finish. It’s perfect for mattifying

According to an article written by Merck’s

functional fillers can absorb oil and prevent caking. Merck’s portfolio of RonaFlair

White Sapphire 4. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Flawless.

functional fillers are composed of various

face powders and foundations. It also adds volume to formulations. A bismuth oxychloride product with improved light

substrates or structures, such as different

FILLERS IN FOCUS

stability, RonaFlair MTU gives formulations

mineral-based platelets and, in some cases,

RonaFlair ESQ is a bismuth oxychloride

a smooth, velvety texture. When added to

they have an additional inorganic coating

powder. The dry, powdery texture feels

cosmetics, they comfortably glide onto the

to achieve a specific property. These highly

great on the skin and the filler offers good

skin with a matte finish. The naturally white

engineered raw materials are exceptionally

transparency, giving the skin a subtle

crystal platelets can be used in a wide

multifunctional; they also play an important

matte appearance. It also supports even

variety of applications and won’t reduce

role in backing up bold claims.

product application and improves pay-off,

the lustre or gloss of a formulation, despite

offering comfortable, long-lasting wear. This

the product’s inherent mattifying effect.

USEFUL ONLINE TOOL

functional filler can be used to enhance

Because it can be a demanding task to

binding capacity in compact powders

of flat, smooth platelets that improve the

select an appropriate filler, Merck has

without giving them a tacky texture.

texture of formulations to deliver a smooth

created the RonaFlair Filler Finder guide.

RonaFlair Flawless is ideal for creating

RonaFlair White Sapphire is made up

application and enhanced slip.

This online platform helps formulators find

smooth looking skin by maximising the

the right functional filler for their makeup

benefits of its spherical shape of the filler

Sapphire, this functional filler offers skin

product based on the effect or claim they

achieved using sophisticated coating

correction properties achieved with

want to offer. They can compare functional

technology. It is perfect for use in BB

its semi-transparent particles, which

fillers and their benefits to find the perfect

creams and makeup formulations that

subtly support light reflection in harmony

match for their formulation.

fill in wrinkles and diffuse light, visibly

with the skin. •

Another one of Merck’s newest innovations is its unbreakable powders solution. The technology platform delivers

smoothing the skin.

Thanks to its excellent compressibility, RonaFlair LF-2000 helps stabilise products.

Also known by the INCI name Synthetic

Merck Performance Materials – www.merck4cosmetics.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |

29

PACKAGING

A tailored solution to overcome packaging challenges Unilever’s Dubai site is the largest personal care factory in the Middle East and Africa, producing hair and skincare products. Sidel recently supplied a complete end of line solution designed for greater flexibility, hygiene and ergonomics.

T

his project posed a unique

packers and shrink wrappers,

challenge. The pots of skin

installed during the same

cream are round and don’t

period as the two robotic lines

provide the counter pressure

and designed for premium

required to attain the usual perfect

pots of skin cream. Among

sealing result. The issue was amplified

the 17 packers and shrink

by the use of trays with short flaps.

wrappers running at the site,

Thanks to the close partnership

this line is equipped with one

between Unilever Dubai and the Sidel team, the challenge was easily overcome with the Cermex WB46 wrap around case packer, which covers all specifications.

The installation was significant in that Unilever Dubai

of Sidel’s flagship pieces of

DID YOU KNOW?

equipment, the Cermex WB46 wrap around

case packer.

Sidel has over 40 000 At the end of machines installed in line stage, the pots of skin more than 190 countries and cream are collected and approximately 170 years of proven packed into trays before experience. The company focuses the entire unit is shrinkheavily on the factory of tomorrow with advanced wrapped. The units are systems, line engineering then stacked and loaded and innovation. into cases.

is now equipped with

The Cermex WB46 wrap around case packer at Unilever’s Dubai plant

THE TECHNOLOGY ENSURES FASTER, SHORTER AND HIGHLY RESPONSIVE PRODUCTION LINES, CUTTING TIME TO MARKET

technology, combined with a modular

TECHNOLOGY TO EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

design. The technology ensures faster,

Didier Saussereau, packing product

shorter and highly responsive production

manager at Sidel, comments: ‘As you

lines, cutting time to market.

can imagine, the shape of the pots

packer has achieved a dominant market

state of the art end of line

The Cermex WB46 wrap around case

and the short flaps on the trays become

position, which demonstrates Sidel’s

entire set of Sidel competences were

even more challenging when the

long standing expertise in the wrap

needed, from robotic product collation

process reaches speeds of up to

around blank mechanisation process.

to shrink wrapping and palletising

25 trays per minute. This is why the

The company is able to cover all market

sealing station was equipped with

segments and all primary packaging

specific adaptations

types, regardless of the technology and

To meet the customer’s needs, the

The Dubai plant also has a third, more traditional packaging line featuring

and pressing plates to

production speed. ‘With accounts such

guarantee a perfectly

as Unilever, we are firmly setting sight on

square sealing of the trays,

Industry 4.0. In this respect, the Cermex

while protecting the pots

WB46 is a benchmark. It comes with

across the entire process.’

a user friendly, multi touch PC panel,

The Cermex WB46 packer

based on a tablet approach navigation.

has retained its ultra smooth

It features RFID login, user and data

operation, guaranteeing

management, alarm and statistic reports,

high quality packaging,

plus remote connectivity and standard

while ensuring Unilever’s end

operating procedures with its One Point

of line specifications are

Lesson database,’ comments Jean-

met. This is a good example

Philippe Beduneau, Sidel’s strategic key

of Sidel’s capability to tailor

account director for Unilever. •

its advanced solutions The round shaped pots, which were previously challenging to pack

30

| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa

according to the customer’s needs.

Sidel – www.sidel.com/en

NUTRACEUTICALS CALCIUM SALTS AND SUPPLEMENTS DI-COMPREZ®

Sudeep Pharma is recognized as one of the largest manufacturer of speciality excipients in the world!

These excipients include filler, lubricants and calcium supplements. We are pleased to introduce the speciality calcium salts used as fillers, as well as calcium supplements.

DI-COMPREZ®: Calcium Hydrogen Phosphate – Dihydrate A-COMPREZ®

• • • •

Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Unmilled: Ideal for direct compression Powder: Ideal for wet granulation and soft gel capsules US DMF: 029976

A-COMPREZ®: Calcium Hydrogen Phosphate - Anhydrous • • • •

Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Unmilled: Ideal for direct Compression Powder: Ideal for wet granulation and soft gel capsules US DMF: 028751

PressCAL® PressCAL®: Calcium Carbonate Granular PressCAL® grades are the highest quality, directly compressible, and pharmaceutical industry.

• • • •

Brenntag South Africa (Pty) Ltd 11 Mansell Road Killarney Gardens Cape Town, 7441 Cape Town Johannesburg/KwaZulu-Natal info@brenntag.co.za

Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Powder grades: Ground and precipitated calcium carbonate CEP and WC » » » »

MD: Maltodextrin AC: Acacia gum CS: Corn starch MA: Maltodextrin and Acacia gum

Brenntag SA represents and distributes the Sudeep Pharma products in South Africa. +27 (0)21 020 18 00 +27 (0)10 020 91 00

www.brenntag.com/south-africa

NUTRACEUTICAL |

PHARMACEUTICAL | FOOD AND NUTRITION

API’S | EXCIPIENTS | ESSENTIAL OILS AND EXTRACTS | HERBAL POWDERS AND EXTRACTS MINERAL SALTS | SPECIALITY NATURAL INGREDIENTS | SURFACTANTS (INCLUDING NATURAL)

PERSONAL CARE

PHARMACEUTICALS

Active ingredients

Active Pharma ingredients

Rheology modifiers

Starches & Starch derivatives

Natural extracts

Lactose

Natural oils

Sodium phosphates

Conditioners

Pharma grade solvents

Emulsifiers

Pharma grade polyols

Natural preservatives

Natural oils & extracts

Surfactants

Carbonates

Concentrate surfactant blends Fragrances Pigments And many more...

Cellulose Calcium carbonate Flavours And many more...